I had to lock up my brakes hard in my 95 s10 4 cylinder, 300,000 miles. Developed a bad rear leak at rear drum cylinder . Replaced both cylinders , rear parking brake works great and fluid flows.but my dash parking light is on now.. i think this is what is the cause.. great video
That fitting with the "pin' you discuss at 9:20 may be part of the metering valve. There are several versions of this type of combination valve and documentation is often lacking. There is another brass valve marketed as a metering or hold off valve. It is square with one inlet and two outlets. It also has a fitting that looks exactly like the "pin". Its function is to provide a little initial back pressure so the front disc brakes don't do all the work at low speeds or something like that. There are also PVKS versions that have residual valves for rear drum brakes. The PVKS versions are nice because they are complete modern brake system hydraulics in one block for many vintage cars. If the internal valve gets stuck a new valve is under $100.
I brought a replacement proportioning valve for my 1980 Jeep Cherokee. It has 2-wires to the switch. I have gone through 2-new ones and they both leaked brake fluid out of the top where the switch plugs into the wire plug. Neither came with any o-ring. And I do not see where an o-ring would fit. Actually I do not think an o-ring is the issue because the brake fluid is leaking from the top of the switch when the brakes are depressed. I have put a temporary plug in the switch hole to keep the fluid in so I can drive the vehicle
I have an '85 3/4 Ton Chevy, 4 wheel drive, 350 "M Series", Auto, full-length bed, and I have another valve as well as this one. My truck has an arm that is connected to a proportioning valve under the bed. When the bed is loaded, the arm turns the proportioning valve and allows more fluid to the rear brakes and the opposite when empty. I am getting almost no brake fluid past that valve when trying to bleed. Chevy says "NLA" as does GMC. Any ideas? Are there special bleeding procedures for my specific truck? It came with the factory tow package. Also, do you have links to those valves in this video and the little bleeding assistant plugs?? Great drawing!! Thank you.
There is a TSB from GM from around 1988 about removing that valve. Those rear height sensing proportioning valves were for a federal requirement and all they really did was cause headaches. You can just delete it and hook the soft line directly to the hardline coming from the combo valve at the front of the truck. The GM tsb is 88-T-15. Dodge and Ford I believe also had TSB's about removing the valves and all 3 have discontinued the parts and they're all NLA new.
I'm new to the gm brake failure system. I've been reading and researching non-Stop about the many issues. I have a 2000 gmc sierra 1500. 23k miles, already upgraded the brakes, and rotors, has new master cylinder. Now on one of my cars I removed the abs system and added non-abs proportioning valve, and wondered if the my truck can obtain the same. So will this device be a solution? I'm going to replace all my brake lines, and really don't want to deal with the abs module. Read alot that it fails. And my rear has been locking up. I do not want to cause a wreck or have something fail while driving. Safety is my #1 priority at this moment.
I have a 1990 Chevy g30 that is in need of a combo/proportion valve. The model for that year is discontinued and can't be found anywhere. Do you have any info on what could be used as a replacement? Thanks
What makes you pull your hair out , on a new brake system . Bleeding the brakes and the valve will move to the rear then it can move to the front when bleeding now allowing you to bleed the brakes. It will move back and forth .
Can you tell me why I have a older proportional valve and it's got a side vent pin sized hole and I got brake fluid squirting out. I ordered a new one and there's not a pin sized hole with a round circle the size of a penny and I have brake fluid spitting out of that. Did something fall out or is that a relief pole and it's leaking past the seals? Like I said I order a new one and there's not even a pin sized hole relief hole on either side of a newer unit I bought.
The PV2 is a far safer to use and the proper valve for front discs and rear drum brakes. The PV2 has the rear drum brakes being applied first, then the Front disc brakes. The PV2 sends NO pressure to the front disc brakes until the brake pedal pressure is high enough to the rear drum brakes are working first. Thus the proper PV2 valve is for control and stability, ie safety. The front disc brake pads are about touching the brake rotor thus very little hydraulic line pressure is needed to make the brakes start to grab. With the rear drums the springs pull the shoes away from the brake drum. It takes more pressure to get the rear drum brake to start to grab the brake drum. A PV4 can work but your vehicle now can be less stable under certain braking conditions. ie great chance of probably fish-tailing etc.
I took my brake switch off my PV4 for 4 wheel disc prop valve then looked inside the hole and it looks nothing like the diagram you drew and doesnt have a "necked down area" that I can see in the hole. I wonder why that is? The prop valve is brand new and I just removed the switch and immediately looked inside and did not see that at all.
The other "wire/path" is ground of the cars frame. The door light switches are often like this too. The switches "wire" ie return path is the cars frame usually the 12 volt batteries negative/black wire to the frame.
Two things stand out on this video. First that switch has nothing to do with a low brake fluid level. It is activated when the shuttle valve moves off center, to alert the driver there is a problem in the brake system. Second, given how hard it was to re-center the shuttle valve, it has been contaminated. Possibly from the master cylinder or from decomposition of the o-rings inside the valve itself. It needs to be removed and rebuilt or replaced. At this point I would say the safety feature of that valve has been compromised.
Hi I am doing a brake conversion on my 69 impala The problem is I replaced the back brake lines from the master cylinder to the portioning valve the line goes into portioning valve it's leaking from the valve ...its front drums to disc
It would keep the valve from separating the front and back brake if something fails. So if anything blew you’d have no brakes. Would be better to leave the switch and just not use
Wow Reminds me of mr Nelson’s political science class in high school 🥱🥱😴😴😴😴😴😴 He needed a dress rehearsal also He wasn’t sure of his information either
I’m glad I watched this before bleeding the brakes 😅
I had to lock up my brakes hard in my 95 s10 4 cylinder, 300,000 miles. Developed a bad rear leak at rear drum cylinder . Replaced both cylinders , rear parking brake works great and fluid flows.but my dash parking light is on now.. i think this is what is the cause.. great video
That fitting with the "pin' you discuss at 9:20 may be part of the metering valve. There are several versions of this type of combination valve and documentation is often lacking. There is another brass valve marketed as a metering or hold off valve. It is square with one inlet and two outlets. It also has a fitting that looks exactly like the "pin". Its function is to provide a little initial back pressure so the front disc brakes don't do all the work at low speeds or something like that. There are also PVKS versions that have residual valves for rear drum brakes. The PVKS versions are nice because they are complete modern brake system hydraulics in one block for many vintage cars. If the internal valve gets stuck a new valve is under $100.
My astro is leaking from the black cap on the side. Does that mean the whole thing needs to be replaced?
I brought a replacement proportioning valve for my 1980 Jeep Cherokee. It has 2-wires to the switch. I have gone through 2-new ones and they both leaked brake fluid out of the top where the switch plugs into the wire plug. Neither came with any o-ring. And I do not see where an o-ring would fit. Actually I do not think an o-ring is the issue because the brake fluid is leaking from the top of the switch when the brakes are depressed. I have put a temporary plug in the switch hole to keep the fluid in so I can drive the vehicle
I have an '85 3/4 Ton Chevy, 4 wheel drive, 350 "M Series", Auto, full-length bed, and I have another valve as well as this one. My truck has an arm that is connected to a proportioning valve under the bed. When the bed is loaded, the arm turns the proportioning valve and allows more fluid to the rear brakes and the opposite when empty. I am getting almost no brake fluid past that valve when trying to bleed. Chevy says "NLA" as does GMC. Any ideas? Are there special bleeding procedures for my specific truck? It came with the factory tow package. Also, do you have links to those valves in this video and the little bleeding assistant plugs?? Great drawing!! Thank you.
There is a TSB from GM from around 1988 about removing that valve. Those rear height sensing proportioning valves were for a federal requirement and all they really did was cause headaches. You can just delete it and hook the soft line directly to the hardline coming from the combo valve at the front of the truck. The GM tsb is 88-T-15. Dodge and Ford I believe also had TSB's about removing the valves and all 3 have discontinued the parts and they're all NLA new.
@@speedandmarine9066 Thank You!!
I'm new to the gm brake failure system. I've been reading and researching non-Stop about the many issues. I have a 2000 gmc sierra 1500. 23k miles, already upgraded the brakes, and rotors, has new master cylinder.
Now on one of my cars I removed the abs system and added non-abs proportioning valve, and wondered if the my truck can obtain the same.
So will this device be a solution? I'm going to replace all my brake lines, and really don't want to deal with the abs module. Read alot that it fails. And my rear has been locking up.
I do not want to cause a wreck or have something fail while driving. Safety is my #1 priority at this moment.
I have a 1990 Chevy g30 that is in need of a combo/proportion valve. The model for that year is discontinued and can't be found anywhere. Do you have any info on what could be used as a replacement? Thanks
Where'd you order it?
What makes you pull your hair out , on a new brake system . Bleeding the brakes and the valve will move to the rear then it can move to the front when bleeding now allowing you to bleed the brakes. It will move back and forth .
1 minute ago
what size tool is needed to remove brake lines
Can you tell me why I have a older proportional valve and it's got a side vent pin sized hole and I got brake fluid squirting out.
I ordered a new one and there's not a pin sized hole with a round circle the size of a penny and I have brake fluid spitting out of that.
Did something fall out or is that a relief pole and it's leaking past the seals?
Like I said I order a new one and there's not even a pin sized hole relief hole on either side of a newer unit I bought.
What is different between the disc - drum version and the disc - disc version
strength of the spring
what sixe tool is need to remove brake lines
I accidently ordered pv4 front disc rear drum can I use it?
The PV2 is a far safer to use and the proper valve for front discs and rear drum brakes. The PV2 has the rear drum brakes being applied first, then the Front disc brakes. The PV2 sends NO pressure to the front disc brakes until the brake pedal pressure is high enough to the rear drum brakes are working first. Thus the proper PV2 valve is for control and stability, ie safety. The front disc brake pads are about touching the brake rotor thus very little hydraulic line pressure is needed to make the brakes start to grab. With the rear drums the springs pull the shoes away from the brake drum. It takes more pressure to get the rear drum brake to start to grab the brake drum. A PV4 can work but your vehicle now can be less stable under certain braking conditions. ie great chance of probably fish-tailing etc.
@@3beltwesty thank you so much for the explanation
@@3beltwesty thanks fr the info, can u all me mlm 985,220538 I need help thks
I took my brake switch off my PV4 for 4 wheel disc prop valve then looked inside the hole and it looks nothing like the diagram you drew and doesnt have a "necked down area" that I can see in the hole. I wonder why that is? The prop valve is brand new and I just removed the switch and immediately looked inside and did not see that at all.
I have a pv4 and it should have a necked down area, they all do cuz it's how they work
I'm a little confused... can a switch work with only one wire?
The other "wire/path" is ground of the cars frame. The door light switches are often like this too. The switches "wire" ie return path is the cars frame usually the 12 volt batteries negative/black wire to the frame.
Two things stand out on this video. First that switch has nothing to do with a low brake fluid level. It is activated when the shuttle valve moves off center, to alert the driver there is a problem in the brake system. Second, given how hard it was to re-center the shuttle valve, it has been contaminated. Possibly from the master cylinder or from decomposition of the o-rings inside the valve itself. It needs to be removed and rebuilt or replaced. At this point I would say the safety feature of that valve has been compromised.
Is there a part number or did you get the last one in existence?
Hi I am doing a brake conversion on my 69 impala The problem is I replaced the back brake lines from the master cylinder to the portioning valve the line goes into portioning valve it's leaking from the valve ...its front drums to disc
Can you just leave the tool in their eliminate that switch on top
It would keep the valve from separating the front and back brake if something fails. So if anything blew you’d have no brakes. Would be better to leave the switch and just not use
how do switch back to center try to bleed brakes no fluid to the front
Never had to reset one, just bleeding the brakes should slide it back in position
Thank you great video
Great spool valve video
Wow
Reminds me of mr Nelson’s political science class in high school
🥱🥱😴😴😴😴😴😴
He needed a dress rehearsal also
He wasn’t sure of his information either