So. I used ClearPATH servos with my 5x10. I don’t have hard stops. Can you explain this a bit? Was this something that was added because the servos are stronger? They there to protect the sensors?
When using Clearpaths you can set them up many different ways. We opted to use the hard stops because of their simplicity, high accuracy and repeatability.
@AvidCNC got it, I received my ex system with servos last week, im having trouble removing the bottom plate on my z axis, the two set screws that hold the bottom plate to the ballscrew are stuck, already broke two allen keys and sent a ticket to support. Should I just drill the screws out?
As this method appears to only adjust the position of the gantry relative to the Y and Y slave sensors - is it possible (for the stepper procedure) just to incrementally jog the gantry with a small jog distance to the front of the table until one of the Y sensors activates and then just adjust the other Y sensor in slowly until it just activates as well. Not sure if this would be as accurate as the drilling method but it would seem to be a lot simpler.
What you describe (adjusting the the position of the gantry to the flags) is actually what the homing procedure does. It works pretty much like you described, moving each side until it trips the sensor and that becomes its reference point. What Eric is describing is the method to which you measure and then adjust the flags themselves so that the homing procedure results in a square system.
Your correct but what happens if you have already drilled a bunch of dog holes and then decide to do this and make adjustments? This process is great if you did it long before (which you should have) but if the machine is slightly out you just messed up a complete table.
@@rufustoad1 That is why you always square up your machine before building anything with it. It doesn't make sense to cut a spoilboard with dogs in it on a machine that is out of square.
@@jimandjulieneeb8529 I kinda suggested that in my post but if you look at his table it is definitely used. If someone thinks their gantry is even slightly out a small adjustment could make a huge difference to someone that doesn't know better.
@@rufustoad1 Ah, I gotcha. You are correct, the order that things are done is important, and if you've taken your spoilboard off for some reason, there is a good chance the machine could get out of square (the spoilboard is what keeps most of these machines from being bumped out of square). There isn't a single perfect answer to that since there are so many different spoilboard types, but I think for the most part, as long as the spoilboard is aligned to one of the rails on the long edge, then this process should still get the gantry sqaure to the orignal spoilboard. I think the main point to what you are saying is that after you do this procedure with an existing spoilboard that has alignment features on it (such as dog holes), you should double check that your newly squared gantry is still running in line with your dog holes.
Hi can you pls give me the make and mod of that TV you are using for the monitor? Do you have a video that shows the set up of homing with both ends of the gantry (how to set up the switches in mach)?
That's just a big 'ol cheap TV I have as a second screen. Any TV with an HDMI input will work. This video applies to Mach and our new Centroid controllers. If you're on Mach you will have steppers and you can adjust following the steps in that portion of the video.
Great Information Eric!
please help me. i use gslender and aspire i don't know which post processor to choose
So. I used ClearPATH servos with my 5x10. I don’t have hard stops. Can you explain this a bit? Was this something that was added because the servos are stronger? They there to protect the sensors?
When using Clearpaths you can set them up many different ways. We opted to use the hard stops because of their simplicity, high accuracy and repeatability.
Do we no longer need the limit switches if we upgraded to the ex controller with servos?
The limit switches are used, but only to get you close to the hard stops. Hard stops are doing the actual work of homing/squaring the machine
@AvidCNC got it, I received my ex system with servos last week, im having trouble removing the bottom plate on my z axis, the two set screws that hold the bottom plate to the ballscrew are stuck, already broke two allen keys and sent a ticket to support. Should I just drill the screws out?
@@thewoodologist8176 I believe I saw your post on this already. Definitely get in touch with support and they can help you out.
As this method appears to only adjust the position of the gantry relative to the Y and Y slave sensors - is it possible (for the stepper procedure) just to incrementally jog the gantry with a small jog distance to the front of the table until one of the Y sensors activates and then just adjust the other Y sensor in slowly until it just activates as well. Not sure if this would be as accurate as the drilling method but it would seem to be a lot simpler.
What you describe (adjusting the the position of the gantry to the flags) is actually what the homing procedure does. It works pretty much like you described, moving each side until it trips the sensor and that becomes its reference point. What Eric is describing is the method to which you measure and then adjust the flags themselves so that the homing procedure results in a square system.
@@jimandjulieneeb8529 What Jim said :)
Nice process to use the full size of the machine for the best accuracy without burning up a whole sheet or drilling into the spoilboard.
Your correct but what happens if you have already drilled a bunch of dog holes and then decide to do this and make adjustments? This process is great if you did it long before (which you should have) but if the machine is slightly out you just messed up a complete table.
@@rufustoad1 That is why you always square up your machine before building anything with it. It doesn't make sense to cut a spoilboard with dogs in it on a machine that is out of square.
@@jimandjulieneeb8529 I kinda suggested that in my post but if you look at his table it is definitely used. If someone thinks their gantry is even slightly out a small adjustment could make a huge difference to someone that doesn't know better.
@@rufustoad1 Ah, I gotcha. You are correct, the order that things are done is important, and if you've taken your spoilboard off for some reason, there is a good chance the machine could get out of square (the spoilboard is what keeps most of these machines from being bumped out of square). There isn't a single perfect answer to that since there are so many different spoilboard types, but I think for the most part, as long as the spoilboard is aligned to one of the rails on the long edge, then this process should still get the gantry sqaure to the orignal spoilboard. I think the main point to what you are saying is that after you do this procedure with an existing spoilboard that has alignment features on it (such as dog holes), you should double check that your newly squared gantry is still running in line with your dog holes.
Hi can you pls give me the make and mod of that TV you are using for the monitor? Do you have a video that shows the set up of homing with both ends of the gantry (how to set up the switches in mach)?
That's just a big 'ol cheap TV I have as a second screen. Any TV with an HDMI input will work. This video applies to Mach and our new Centroid controllers. If you're on Mach you will have steppers and you can adjust following the steps in that portion of the video.