What I had to do to get the trunk working again is I had to have the module reprogrammed or initiated at chevy for the lift gate and install a new hydraulic pump and everything came back online I installed a new battery and the lights quit flickering and voltage codes cleared
I've worked on several of these SRX's with trunks full of water but never really knew where it was coming from. Usually I'd just drill a tiny hole or two in the trunk for a drain after replacing the module and/or pump.
Do you know anything about why a dashboard on a 2011 would be going crazy and the screen not opening up and the A/C blowing only hot air . Everything happened simultaneously.
I have a similar intermittent problem. Everything goes haywire and abs light and CEL come on..twice has went into limp home mode..other times it's fine and no issues.. if you have and ideas would be appreciated.. oreadyrwplaced the abs module because the scanner said it was that and it seemed fine then did it again
OK, I popped the switch behind the lift gate light and the gate opened partially 3-4 inches. I can't get the lift gate to rise more so I can access the module or even do an inspection. The gate can be closed and locked but won't budge open. Is there a way to open this gate fully with no access? Maybe some sort of trick with the adjustable liftgate open switch?
You have to make sure the hydraulic pump lines are c9nnected to open even if the pump isn't working The lines to the pump and Schrader valves in the end that clip on to the pump and allow pressure to bleed back and forth into the pump even when manually opening and closing the lift gate and if the lines are not connected or there is a blockage at a line end it won't open completely
@@FordBossMe OK. The lift gate is popped but barely opens. Not like everyone else's light gate that fully opens. The Schrader valves which might allow the gate to fully open . Where are they? I don't think I can get at them. (valve below lock assembly with light or at top of cylinder.) 2011 Performance SRX 53,000 miles. I think I might just stop here for now.
Okay but how to you fix the non working roof drain? Also can you confirm the light flickering was fixed "long term". I assume a new battery could temporarily mask lots of electrical problems but is it the actual problem?
It was the fix, the battery did the trick The drains need to be cleared out and you should visually be able to see the water constantly draining from all 4 corners in the vehicle typically in the wheel well
So after further testing I found the battery was fine. The volts were all over the place. From 9v-20v while running and sometimes zero charging. so I replaced the alternator and the flickering stopped. And volts are right around 14.7 now. So my flickering light problem was my alternator charging inconsistently. 🤷♂️
What I had to do to get the trunk working again is I had to have the module reprogrammed or initiated at chevy for the lift gate and install a new hydraulic pump and everything came back online
I installed a new battery and the lights quit flickering and voltage codes cleared
I've worked on several of these SRX's with trunks full of water but never really knew where it was coming from. Usually I'd just drill a tiny hole or two in the trunk for a drain after replacing the module and/or pump.
Do you know anything about why a dashboard on a 2011 would be going crazy and the screen not opening up and the A/C blowing only hot air . Everything happened simultaneously.
No I don't, I think the charging system is a major issue in them. Sensitive to battery health and voltage - when that's off things go nuts
I have a similar intermittent problem. Everything goes haywire and abs light and CEL come on..twice has went into limp home mode..other times it's fine and no issues.. if you have and ideas would be appreciated.. oreadyrwplaced the abs module because the scanner said it was that and it seemed fine then did it again
@@stangbanger6445 I had to replace the fuse box under the hood and it's been fine since then.
OK great I'll try the fusebox. Thank you!
OK, I popped the switch behind the lift gate light and the gate opened partially 3-4 inches. I can't get the lift gate to rise more so I can access the module or even do an inspection. The gate can be closed and locked but won't budge open. Is there a way to open this gate fully with no access? Maybe some sort of trick with the adjustable liftgate open switch?
You have to make sure the hydraulic pump lines are c9nnected to open even if the pump isn't working
The lines to the pump and Schrader valves in the end that clip on to the pump and allow pressure to bleed back and forth into the pump even when manually opening and closing the lift gate and if the lines are not connected or there is a blockage at a line end it won't open completely
@@FordBossMe OK. The lift gate is popped but barely opens. Not like everyone else's light gate that fully opens. The Schrader valves which might allow the gate to fully open . Where are they? I don't think I can get at them. (valve below lock assembly with light or at top of cylinder.) 2011 Performance SRX 53,000 miles. I think I might just stop here for now.
Okay but how to you fix the non working roof drain? Also can you confirm the light flickering was fixed "long term". I assume a new battery could temporarily mask lots of electrical problems but is it the actual problem?
It was the fix, the battery did the trick
The drains need to be cleared out and you should visually be able to see the water constantly draining from all 4 corners in the vehicle typically in the wheel well
@@FordBossMe right on. Thanks
So after further testing I found the battery was fine. The volts were all over the place. From 9v-20v while running and sometimes zero charging. so I replaced the alternator and the flickering stopped. And volts are right around 14.7 now. So my flickering light problem was my alternator charging inconsistently. 🤷♂️
I ment 2010 - 2016 srx