Nice guitars Kevin. I actually just finished up a guitar with walnut back and sides and a spruce top. The walnut came from my next door neighbor. He gave it to me, and it had been sitting in his mom's garage for years. It was pretty rough finished, and I think he said it had probably been there 30 plus years. Very fun.
Hey Kevin, love your videos. They have helped me with my guitar building journey. Can you explain that "donut" brace? I am currently building my third guitar as a hobby. It's a OO following a Martin style set of plans. Wondering if I can replace the braces around the sound hole with that "donut" brace. Possibly with a piece of spruce from the top cutoffs?
I’m building a 3/4 guitar at the moment as well, I’m not near as experienced as you, the back is walnut as well with a cedar top. I’m on a budget, and ran out of walnut. What would you say to doing oak for the sides, would that affect anything in the build. Signed inexperienced builder. lol Also, I’ve looked for a fret board template for fret placement. Again, could you advise me.
You can certainly use Oak for your back, without concern for physical strength, stability or tonal affect.. If you want to visually bring the back and rims together, consider a three piece back with an Oak wedge in the center. You can get fret placement specification in many locations online, free. Stewart MacDonald has a good one. A direct way of cutting the fret slots is to start with a fret board blank that has parallel edges. Cut a piece of wood about 6" long, 1/2" thick, by 1/4" to 3/8" wider than the fingerboard blank. Rabbet the piece along its length, about 1'4: deep so that it will hook on the edge of the finger board blank. Square its end so that it can be used as guide for your fret saw. Use a rule of proper increment such that you can lay out the fret positions and use a square and a knife to scribe them across the board. After the fret slots are cut, taper the board to the desired dimensions, working fro a carefully scribed center line.
Always interesting things to hear about!
Always very well articulated and informative Kevin !
Can't waits to see the classic style one when it's completely done.thank you for the update.
Thanks for sharing your talent and skills with us. You are a fine craftsman and artist luthier.
Thanks for the video Kevin. Looking great!
Interesting video, Kevin. I am looking forward to hearing that low-tension pine/walnut instrument. Thank you for sharing, and Season's Greetings!
Very exciting! Keep 'em coming, Kevin. If I lived closer, I would become an absolute pest at your place!
Nice guitars Kevin. I actually just finished up a guitar with walnut back and sides and a spruce top. The walnut came from my next door neighbor. He gave it to me, and it had been sitting in his mom's garage for years. It was pretty rough finished, and I think he said it had probably been there 30 plus years. Very fun.
i'm certainly in that "Target Market" for lower tension
Hey Kevin, love your videos. They have helped me with my guitar building journey. Can you explain that "donut" brace? I am currently building my third guitar as a hobby. It's a OO following a Martin style set of plans. Wondering if I can replace the braces around the sound hole with that "donut" brace. Possibly with a piece of spruce from the top cutoffs?
I’m building a 3/4 guitar at the moment as well, I’m not near as experienced as you, the back is walnut as well with a cedar top. I’m on a budget, and ran out of walnut. What would you say to doing oak for the sides, would that affect anything in the build. Signed inexperienced builder. lol Also, I’ve looked for a fret board template for fret placement. Again, could you advise me.
You can certainly use Oak for your back, without concern for physical strength, stability or tonal affect.. If you want to visually bring the back and rims together, consider a three piece back with an Oak wedge in the center. You can get fret placement specification in many locations online, free. Stewart MacDonald has a good one. A direct way of cutting the fret slots is to start with a fret board blank that has parallel edges. Cut a piece of wood about 6" long, 1/2" thick, by 1/4" to 3/8" wider than the fingerboard blank. Rabbet the piece along its length, about 1'4: deep so that it will hook on the edge of the finger board blank. Square its end so that it can be used as guide for your fret saw. Use a rule of proper increment such that you can lay out the fret positions and use a square and a knife to scribe them across the board. After the fret slots are cut, taper the board to the desired dimensions, working fro a carefully scribed center line.