Many thanks for that, Kevin. I watched Micheal's video, and yes, he da man! I might be right full of it, but if my mitre slot was at 30 degrees to where my saw wanted to cut...what do I care! Now, you care, because of your fancy gauge for thickness. Now I like the alignment idea just for properness.
Hey Kevin your right about blades, I do like timber wolf, but there not cheap, I think I will try the Lennox blades, I have a large pecan tree coming down soon, will be a good opportunity to cut up some extra stock, also have some six foot pieces of oak that needs to become Dimensional lumber. Thank for all you do , Merry Christmas sir.
Hey Kevin ! woodworker from Germany here ! all very good information i really love your style of demonstration. i would really love your insight for a woodworker with a small shop ! is there a way to thickness sides/soundboards without a drumsander ? i already have to much machines and as you know never enough space . could you demonstrate alternative ways to do these kind of steps and also here in germany a good drumsander is 2k plus . wich may be out of reach for a beginner or smaller shop sorry for my bad english thanks for the good advice.
Great pointers, as usual! I noticed, Kevin, that you are wearing gloves when using your band saw. I had always believed that gloves posed a greater risk of injury? I would appreciate your thoughts.
Hey Kevin, great video! I've worked with / for a couple of guys that swear by waxing the blades on the bandsaw. Ever done it? Opinions / thoughts? It always seemed like a bunch of "Who Shot John" to me.
Thanks Kevin. I was wondering if you also resaw tops and backs as well. I think you mentioned the limit of 6”… is that right? What is the limit.. the saw itself?
I think resewing isn't just a practice in my shop, it's an addiction. My late saw can cut twelve inches deep and my fourteen inch saw cuts six inches deep. I use both depending on specific need. I resew all of my backs, rims, neck components, braces, binding stock, purling stock, veneers, I resew all of the tops that I acquire locally, but the Spruce and Cedar that I acquire come in book matched sets.
I've been using Laguna Resaw King carbide blades. They last way longer than normal blades and can be resharpened by the manufacturer. Expenses, but they last forever.
I have 2 Laguna Resaw Kings. A 1" and a 3/4" . I can't get them to behave in my Reliant- 14" delta knockoff with a riser block. 105" blade. 7" of Biternut Hickory was difficult at best. I have ceramic guides set at .005" and the blade has the gullets close to the center of the upper wheel.
@JoshWard-g5i In my experience, saws with riser blocks don't have the frame stiffness to tame the Resaw King, so it might be the saw rather than the blades
Excellent information. Thank you.
All very good information. Love the set up video suggestion. Sharp blades are a must. A dull blade will always drift. Thanks for the good advice.
Many thanks for that, Kevin. I watched Micheal's video, and yes, he da man! I might be right full of it, but if my mitre slot was at 30 degrees to where my saw wanted to cut...what do I care! Now, you care, because of your fancy gauge for thickness. Now I like the alignment idea just for properness.
I agree with your comments about blade tracking. My preferred setting is where the bottom of the gullet is centred on the wheel.
Hey Kevin your right about blades, I do like timber wolf, but there not cheap, I think I will try the Lennox blades, I have a large pecan tree coming down soon, will be a good opportunity to cut up some extra stock, also have some six foot pieces of oak that needs to become Dimensional lumber. Thank for all you do , Merry Christmas sir.
Hey Kevin ! woodworker from Germany here ! all very good information i really love your style of demonstration.
i would really love your insight for a woodworker with a small shop ! is there a way to thickness sides/soundboards without a drumsander ?
i already have to much machines and as you know never enough space .
could you demonstrate alternative ways to do these kind of steps
and also here in germany a good drumsander is 2k plus . wich may be out of reach for a beginner or smaller shop
sorry for my bad english
thanks for the good advice.
Great pointers, as usual! I noticed, Kevin, that you are wearing gloves when using your band saw. I had always believed that gloves posed a greater risk of injury? I would appreciate your thoughts.
Hey Kevin, great video! I've worked with / for a couple of guys that swear by waxing the blades on the bandsaw. Ever done it? Opinions / thoughts? It always seemed like a bunch of "Who Shot John" to me.
Thanks Kevin. I was wondering if you also resaw tops and backs as well. I think you mentioned the limit of 6”… is that right? What is the limit.. the saw itself?
My guess is that was the limit of the average 14" bandsaw.
I think resewing isn't just a practice in my shop, it's an addiction. My late saw can cut twelve inches deep and my fourteen inch saw cuts six inches deep. I use both depending on specific need. I resew all of my backs, rims, neck components, braces, binding stock, purling stock, veneers, I resew all of the tops that I acquire locally, but the Spruce and Cedar that I acquire come in book matched sets.
I've been using Laguna Resaw King carbide blades. They last way longer than normal blades and can be resharpened by the manufacturer. Expenses, but they last forever.
I have 2 Laguna Resaw Kings. A 1" and a 3/4" . I can't get them to behave in my Reliant- 14" delta knockoff with a riser block. 105" blade. 7" of Biternut Hickory was difficult at best. I have ceramic guides set at .005" and the blade has the gullets close to the center of the upper wheel.
@JoshWard-g5i In my experience, saws with riser blocks don't have the frame stiffness to tame the Resaw King, so it might be the saw rather than the blades