An important note I need to mention: Please don't think I am in any way dogging the old shop that helped me with the original build. I don't blame them for any of the issue we had with the block. Yes, the block got knocked off a work table, but stuff like that can happen. And then they took a lot of time and attention making the repair. Everything thought it was done as well as absolutely possible. So please don't think I'm putting any blame on those guys, we're still friends and hope to work with some of them again in the future. Thanks!
Working with Keith Dorton is the Master Engine Builder and everyone else Top Quality Workmanship they all have an excellent understanding about Engine Building hi 👋 from# YSW respect back to you all 🇨🇦 😊😊😊😊😊😊
It was the decision of the customer to repair it, and it was done well, there was just and undetected and unsuspected main cap alignment issue that if detected, would have been correctable with a material buildup/re-size, and basic line bore & hone on the rear main cap,while torqued down. If foresight was as clear as hindsight, the welder could have ran the bead with the rest of the block submerged in H2O, preventing the damage with an ounce of effort and it would not have been an issue requiring the above mentioned “pound of cure”. I’ve cross drilled dowelled and siamese drilled and tapped a hole for a small tapered plug, half into the dowel end and half into the ear, preventing it from turning or walking its way out, then cross drilled through both the plug and dowel starting through the ear material ending 5/16” into the block, pounding in a drift pin until it bottomed out cutting them off with an angle grinder with a slicer, then after grinding the whole thing flush,used a punch and a low temp oxy-acetylene tip to heat up the iron i peened the block gently to lock in the dowell , and drift pin before re tooling and repeating the process at the other end deliberately cross drilling at different angles along the linear edge. Once it was fixed, I ground a slight bevel along the crack, and patiently stitched the seam with a nickel 99 electrode filler, letting the bead cool to the same temp as the preheated block/ear substrate. Phew! My thumb is numb! Well it held up, and no one noticed, it was on a 454 block, had a little more meat
I like Vortech blowers and their kits. They work. I was one of the first to buy a Vortech kit serial #00214. It was an A trim for a 5.0 Mustang back in 1993. Later I had it upgraded to an S trim and 10 rib pulleys. This head unit had straight cut gears and it was noisy. Back then few people heard of centrifugal blowers as the only other one was a Paxton SN89 which could not compare to a Vortech. I enjoyed the video.
You're a man after my own heart 😁 My first car was a 1978 Camaro (Type LT) This is my kind of engine build.....a big cube small block! This combo is nice on its own, but the Vortech is the cherry on top. An extra 160 hp from 5.5 psi of boost is an excellent number!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster Please keep making your videos beacuse they are really interesting and important to understand, and say Thank you kindly to Keith Dorton and his Son you Rock 🎸 with this information Videos hi 👋 from # YSW 🇨🇦 where I follow you 💯 from .
@@TheHorsepowerMonster i love watching your UA-cam videos and only one request more videos with Keith Dorton & Son and your own videos as well Thank you kindly for responding back to me in # YSW 🇨🇦 .
I figure look is atleast 8 or 9 tenths of it. young boy I sold my other car to he said when was I going to take my other one to the track I said probably not going to nowadays he said why not I said I'll tell you a secret as long as she's is setting in the garage she's not costing to much an as long as I don't I've got the fastest car around an know one can tell me any different 🏁😎
After watching those boosted pulls, it's easy to see why the Vortech V2 on my wife's Mustang shreds belts like crazy! I keep several spares in the trunk!
I really like keeping a small block. Every dyno video I've ever watched has the supercharger belt slip in that same rpm range. Seems vortech would've cured that by now with a different design
Do extra thick head gaskets, 0.040" thicker than stock, throw off the rest of the mating surfaces geometry, mainly the intake to heads angle? I only ask because I was told it does, but this video glossed over it like it is no problem.
A little bit. The intake to cylinder head bolt holes were OK, but where I noticed it most was the blower bracket that bolted to both the block and the side of the cylinder head. It was a little tight, so you had to start all the bolts loose and then tighten.
It's too bad that to get the HP of a 302 FORD 4 valve using an SBC, it has to be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inches. I can't wait to see how much power the BIG SBC can make with a blower. WOW! Love your show.
I have zero experience on boosted gasoline engines.. however if you went through the trouble to add a intercooler would that help .I believe that the fuel injection system you have helps cool the intake charge..some what ..Thanks for the videos
Hey buddy, If you can get the tension pulley up close to the blower pulley that may do it for no worse than it was. By moving it up closer, and you could also go with a slightly smaller in diameter and get it right up in close. The closer the tension pulley is, the more surface of the belt is on the pulley, for maximum pull power, the belt needs to bite on as much surface as possible! I'd bet it will make that go away except for certain factors. Are you at altitude? If so the blower isn't working very hard, the air is thin, down here at seal level where I live, the air is thick plus it's humid as hell, it'd be more apt to slip.
Yes, just like this, give me the HP and the driveability with air-conditioning and power steering!! In a 87 Chevy Silverado that will walk the dog on the mustangs and coverett!! I'm thinking 383 or 388 stroker or even a 400 stroker, I love the chop of these engines!! Blower or charged is fine too!!
You would probably Lose the blower slip if you put a pulley on the opposing side of the Pro charger... I was watching the belt it was going insane on that side
Every gas station in North Carolina, and most of the Southeastern USA. Not sure about the rest of the country besides California which doesn't have it.
I always appreciate it when mistakes are shown, talked about. It shows honesty, human fallibility we all have and the desire to educate others so they, hopefully, don't make the same mistake. So, for that, Thank You. That said, awesome build and video.
Good to see a new show, and certainly was not disappointed. I get educated with every episode and I never knew milling magnetised blocks. I love all the nuts and bolts stuff, All the very best from Scotland
5psi is all?!? HOLY SHIIIATTTT! I was wondering why only 600ish HP when NA 427's can do that.... With 10psi, that thing should have went 1000hp+ (EASY)!!
For real...there is ZERO chance I would have accepted that welded up pos...the way I look at it, I didn't bring a broken block to the shop, so the shop sure as hell isn't going to return to me a broken block...it sucks for them but they'd be buying me a NEW replacement...maybe they'll be more careful next time.
I have a Dart SHP 400 block and Scat forged 4" crank. Darp Pro 1 215 heads. Howards cam, FAST XFI efi. I have an Edelbrock Victor E single plane high rise intake. The exhaust is a set of Schoenfeld headers with 2-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. The engine is making 5549hp at 6400 rpm and 545lbft of torque. This is in my 1982 Corvette. I have a 4L80E transmission with a 3600 rpm stall converter. The transmission is controlled with a US-Shift TCU. This setup is a real tire ripper.
Your channel is one of the first I ever subscribed too, and due largely in part to the build series you ran on this engine years ago. It used to kill me having to wait for the next episode to come out in that series. I always wondered why I never saw it go in the Camaro, and now I know. Excellent work, and that thing is a Monster! I now have hope to seeing it under the hood of the Camaro. Really appreciate the quality, and highly technical videos you produce. Thanks
Bandaids don't work. Newskin doesn't work. Duct tape doesn't work. After disinfecting a small cut, pat dry and set a small piece of paper towel over the wound. Drops of CA glue will keep the wound closed. I've done this for 40 years, and never got an infection. It always works.
You can manage that slip buy installing one of those grip or traction pulleys on the blower I noticed on my 95 mustang it helped with belt slip substantially plus the amount of tension can be dropped on the blower belt tensioner
Yes, vortech offers “high traction” pulleys on their website which have a textured surface. Note the sizes are slightly different (2.93” is a 3”, etc). I didn’t see much different between normal and high traction, but have a much shorter belt in my setup. The belt on that 427 looks way too long that a second pulley is needed.
I SO LOVE IT ,GOT YOUR PRODUCT FROM YOU 2 + YEARS AGO ,.,LOVE IT GOOD TO SEE YOU STILL GOOD ',PS I LIKE PEOPLE WHO NEVER GIVE UP.,I WILL PURCHASE ANOTHER T- SHIRT ..,PPS PLEASE TRUST ME , I AM DYSLEXIC, I AM 68 ,TELL NOBODY YOU CAN'T DO IT ; CHEERS FORM OZ
Wow! Love everything about this video, the topic, your humor, narration, and honesty when you F'd something up... I need to implement everything here to my channel, yes, including the Vortech. ha, ha. I subbed to learn from you. Keep it up!
Can the belt slippage be mitigated with more belt deflection? This is assuming it's worth it and you'd want to machine something else to force it to work...
Yeah I'm hearin' ya - there's always something that is NQR. Why can't they sort this stuff out? You know the moment I saw that long unsupported section of belt on the non drive side I thought this is going to be trouble. Granted I am a mechanic so I tend to notice things I know are likely to be problematic, but this sort of thing is disappointing I reckon because it is so time consuming to rectify. Considering the effort they have in the belt and drive not to mention the price of the kit, why can't they just do it right once instead of leaving it to the consumer to grumble? It's not good for their reputation, the consumer gets annoyed - it's all just so, well, um, I don't know, unnecessary. I'd happily sacrifice 15hp if the belt didn't whip like this. It's not good enough!
I feel like a smaller mild 350 would displace far less air and if the kit is configured in this manner (the pulleys size) the pressure will increase in the intake(bewst) and make the belt slip worse. Less pressure more flow>more pressure less flow. I think that setup will slip at the top on just about any engine unless it just doesn’t go past 5500😮 I’m not hating I love sc but you have to have belt wrap like maybe if it had a tension or idler on the bottom.
I have been around engines all my life.Taking into consideration how much an empty block weighs, how in the world did someone KNOCK it off of the bench ? I am curious.
Normally, I'd agree, but in this case they were volunteering their time to help me out and be a part of the project. So there were no hard feelings and we just fixed it as best we could. Thanks for watching
Funny the supercharger kit doesn't use a spring tensioner to keep the belt tight. I can see the return side of the belt getting loose causing the slip. A spring tensioner would fix that.
I Don't Comment Very Often, but i Just Had To Regarding This Video. -- i'm Going to Get Rite to the Point. -- Your ONLY Mistake U Made is, U Should Have DEMANDED the Machine Shop Buy U a NEW Engine Block, PERIOD!! -- Dropping a Customers NEW Engine Block & Damaging it is Inexcusable. -- Especially to the Point a Big Chuck of the Block BROKE Off & Needed to Be Welded Back On. -- News Flash, Everyone Who Has Ever Owned their Own Business with Employees has at One Time or Another Had a Employee F'-Up Something that Belonged to a Customer, & Guess What?? -- The Business Has to MAKE it Rite, Even if the Business Loses Money!! -- As an Example, my Friend Spent 5-yrs. Restoring a 1969 Camero, & had the Exterior Painted Black with White Stripes. -- After my Friend Got his Car Back, the Paint Immediately Started to Peel Off. -- The Owner of the Body Shop Personally Went to my Friends House & Did a Tape Test On the Paint itself. -- Put Some Tape On the Paint & then Peeled the Tape Off, & Yup, Paint Came Off with the Tape!! - & the Body Shop Had to Repaint the WHOLE Car with the White Stripes for FREE!! -- Now, that's How U Run a Business. -- Everybody F'-Up, Question is, What are U Going to Do to Make it Rite?? -- i'm "NO" Einstein, Far From it, & that Being Said, -- i Would Have Told U, that U were More Than Likely, Going to Have Problems with Your Build if U were to use the Repaired Engine Block, & U Did.
Pretty sure the Engine belt could be routed wrong and probably needed to wrap around the crank pulley in a different configuration. Hence the longer belt, but I could be totally wrong. Just a thought
Thanks for showing all the mix-ups and screwups, I bet that's how it really goes for most of us. Having to re-do an engine you already paid someone to do once is a real kick in the nads and a big hit to the wallet. Reminds me of when a dyno operator slammed the front-end of my pristine Buick GN into the dyno cooling fans, a 2-day dyno tune turned into a 14 month stay in body shop prison. It has cost me quite a bit to recover the expenses from that fiasco. Everyone I'm sure has similar stories of heartache with their hot rod. Like you I try and do everything myself but sometimes you have to turn it over to what you hope is a pro, in your case an engine builder, in mine a FAST XFI turner.
Great power, for an SBC (427 cubic inches). Too bad that a Coyote 4 valve and supercharger can blow your engine away. Over 1100 HP and able to rev to over 7K RPM. By the way, the FORD revs quicker.
Really glad you got the engine fixed and back together. Maybe I'm getting old but I have no use for turbos or blowers, with the complexity and heat. The NA 427 is plenty for me.
@TheHorsepowerMonster - Did you end up opening the piston ring gaps for this blower, or no since you're only pushing 5lbs of boost. Pretty tame boost levels, even on a stock ring gap.
I've experienced far too much belt slippage on blown serpentine drive setups. Wider belts and larger pulleys do help, but most bolt on kits don't have the development in terms of belt wrap that a factory setup would have.
I have pulled apart engines that had different sizes in the journals required two sets of bearings , the crank ended up ,.020" .030", didn't know they made bearings in . 030" under
I understand that, "things happen," but I think whoever dropped the block should have bought a new one. Let them have the damaged one. Just sayin. 🤷🏼♂️
What was or would be if we(viewers)had to pay for having all of the professionals do each of the needed tasks that is showed in this video. Sometimes buying an engine already built??!!?!
I don't think it matters with vortex you're always going to get slip I put an extra tensioners and pulleys on there to keep the belt from slapping around and you always end up throwing a belt when you're having the most fun better carry an extra one in your car
EXCELLENT WELDER HUH..... HE HAD TO HEAT THE CAST IRON TO WELD IT....THEY SHOULD HAVE LINE BORED AND SQUARED THE BLOCK... HOT TANKED AGAIN TOSSED CAM BERRINGS....REDECKED THE BLOCK.....CHECKED ROUNDNESS OF THE BORES......
Because you then need to fill bottles over and over, heat them up, change bottles in & out ect ect. Forced induction is far superior to nitrous in almost every way, especially when running a modern EFI setup. Plus he still could put a single kit on it.
@@jdmmike7225 How much is that supercharger setup, because you can purchase an awful lot of nitrous before any cost benefit. I do agree that in many cases, the bottle always seems empty when you need it most. One thing many people don't think about is that really small 25 HP dryshot is awesome for spooling turbos and the bottle lasts damn near forever if you do it right.
@@mpeugeot Im not sure, im not really a fan of centrifugal blower setups, I'd much rather use the waste of an engine to make more power with a turbocharger than take some power to make some power with a blower. Using nitrous to help spool is quite common at the drag strip & on drifting circuits. However with how advanced engine management has come in the last few years it isnt needed as much because ECU's can now use timing changes to create an anti-lag. No more having to inject fuel directly into the turbine.
@@jdmmike7225 Centrifugal blowers encompass the worst attributes of forced induction systems. Turbos are probably top of the food chain, but I personally love the sound of a twin screw and they are close in efficiency to the turbo (and have certain attributes that make them attractive in some applications). A centrifugal blower is generally my last choice, but certainly is better than no boost at all.
@@mpeugeot Technically top of the food chain in term of efficiency when it comes to forced induction is actually a Screw blower. They are actually alil more efficient than a turbo. The only problem is they take quite a bit of power to spin so they're not very economical on smaller displacement engines. Next comes turbos & with advancing technology they are catching up on screw blowers. Screws used to have like 12-13% more efficiency now its like 5-8%. Next is a roots style blower, like the old school 6-71 GMC blowers that hot rods used in the 50's and 60's. And finally is centrifugal blowers or procharger. As you said they're the worst of both worlds.
An important note I need to mention: Please don't think I am in any way dogging the old shop that helped me with the original build. I don't blame them for any of the issue we had with the block. Yes, the block got knocked off a work table, but stuff like that can happen. And then they took a lot of time and attention making the repair. Everything thought it was done as well as absolutely possible. So please don't think I'm putting any blame on those guys, we're still friends and hope to work with some of them again in the future. Thanks!
Working with Keith Dorton is the Master Engine Builder and everyone else Top Quality Workmanship they all have an excellent understanding about Engine Building hi 👋 from# YSW respect back to you all 🇨🇦 😊😊😊😊😊😊
I would think that they would have replaced the block
It was the decision of the customer to repair it, and it was done well, there was just and undetected and unsuspected main cap alignment issue that if detected, would have been correctable with a material buildup/re-size, and basic line bore & hone on the rear main cap,while torqued down. If foresight was as clear as hindsight, the welder could have ran the bead with the rest of the block submerged in H2O, preventing the damage with an ounce of effort and it would not have been an issue requiring the above mentioned “pound of cure”. I’ve cross drilled dowelled and siamese drilled and tapped a hole for a small tapered plug, half into the dowel end and half into the ear, preventing it from turning or walking its way out, then cross drilled through both the plug and dowel starting through the ear material ending 5/16” into the block, pounding in a drift pin until it bottomed out cutting them off with an angle grinder with a slicer, then after grinding the whole thing flush,used a punch and a low temp oxy-acetylene tip to heat up the iron i peened the block gently to lock in the dowell , and drift pin before re tooling and repeating the process at the other end deliberately cross drilling at different angles along the linear edge. Once it was fixed, I ground a slight bevel along the crack, and patiently stitched the seam with a nickel 99 electrode filler, letting the bead cool to the same temp as the preheated block/ear substrate. Phew! My thumb is numb! Well it held up, and no one noticed, it was on a 454 block, had a little more meat
The old shop absolutely 💯 % would have provided me a Factory Freash New Block !!!!
I bet the guy that dropped it felt terrible! Glad the repair worked great!
So excited to see a new build video on this channel. I've been really missing them. Awesome video, brother 👏 👏 👏
Thanks!
I like Vortech blowers and their kits. They work.
I was one of the first to buy a Vortech kit serial #00214. It was an A trim for a 5.0 Mustang back in 1993.
Later I had it upgraded to an S trim and 10 rib pulleys. This head unit had straight cut gears and it was noisy.
Back then few people heard of centrifugal blowers as the only other one was a Paxton SN89 which could not compare to a Vortech.
I enjoyed the video.
You're a man after my own heart 😁 My first car was a 1978 Camaro (Type LT)
This is my kind of engine build.....a big cube small block! This combo is nice on its own, but the Vortech is the cherry on top. An extra 160 hp from 5.5 psi of boost is an excellent number!
Thanks!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster Please keep making your videos beacuse they are really interesting and important to understand, and say Thank you kindly to Keith Dorton and his Son you Rock 🎸 with this information Videos hi 👋 from # YSW 🇨🇦 where I follow you 💯 from .
@@domenicomonteleone3055 Thanks! And thanks for watching!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster i love watching your UA-cam videos and only one request more videos with Keith Dorton & Son and your own videos as well Thank you kindly for responding back to me in # YSW 🇨🇦 .
I like that the block is painted red, that's good for 20HP. 😎
Exactly!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster if it was painted ( BLUE ) it would gain 100 hp 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 👍👍🏆🙏😁
that's always the color I painted my builds but all these years that I had a secret with the HP thanks guys for letting me know I wasn't gifted 😢
I figure look is atleast 8 or 9 tenths of it. young boy I sold my other car to he said when was I going to take my other one to the track I said probably not going to nowadays he said why not I said I'll tell you a secret as long as she's is setting in the garage she's not costing to much an as long as I don't I've got the fastest car around an know one can tell me any different 🏁😎
You are so good at detail. I would trust you with any build! Great job!
Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!
After watching those boosted pulls, it's easy to see why the Vortech V2 on my wife's Mustang shreds belts like crazy! I keep several spares in the trunk!
Belt slippage is cause there is not enough wrap around on the belt. Install an idler on the bottom side and slip won’t be as bad.
I really like keeping a small block. Every dyno video I've ever watched has the supercharger belt slip in that same rpm range. Seems vortech would've cured that by now with a different design
Do extra thick head gaskets, 0.040" thicker than stock, throw off the rest of the mating surfaces geometry, mainly the intake to heads angle? I only ask because I was told it does, but this video glossed over it like it is no problem.
A little bit. The intake to cylinder head bolt holes were OK, but where I noticed it most was the blower bracket that bolted to both the block and the side of the cylinder head. It was a little tight, so you had to start all the bolts loose and then tighten.
Thank God their is real engineers left,awesome.
It's too bad that to get the HP of a 302 FORD 4 valve using an SBC, it has to be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inches. I can't wait to see how much power the BIG SBC can make with a blower. WOW! Love your show.
Lol😂😂😂
finally another build video!
Yeah, I’ve been pretty slow. Thanks for watching!
I have zero experience on boosted gasoline engines.. however if you went through the trouble to add a intercooler would that help
.I believe that the fuel injection system you have helps cool the intake charge..some what ..Thanks for the videos
You guys should do another video with Griptec pulleys.
Awesome build!
Much thanks! And thanks for watching!
Hear that belt shrieking in protest!
Hey buddy, If you can get the tension pulley up close to the blower pulley that may do it for no worse than it was. By moving it up closer, and you could also go with a slightly smaller in diameter and get it right up in close. The closer the tension pulley is, the more surface of the belt is on the pulley, for maximum pull power, the belt needs to bite on as much surface as possible! I'd bet it will make that go away except for certain factors. Are you at altitude? If so the blower isn't working very hard, the air is thin, down here at seal level where I live, the air is thick plus it's humid as hell, it'd be more apt to slip.
You won't max it out, YOU WONT YOU WONT dang you did it.
Listen to that infamous vortec belt slip
Yes, just like this, give me the HP and the driveability with air-conditioning and power steering!! In a 87 Chevy Silverado that will walk the dog on the mustangs and coverett!! I'm thinking 383 or 388 stroker or even a 400 stroker, I love the chop of these engines!! Blower or charged is fine too!!
You would probably Lose the blower slip if you put a pulley on the opposing side of the Pro charger... I was watching the belt it was going insane on that side
It looks like you need a smaller belt that might help because there isn't as much slack in the belt.
Accidents happen, If you screw up, fess up, and make it right.
I'd be asking for a new block personally
You should try a pro charger
Where are you getting the 93 octane gas at???
Every gas station in North Carolina, and most of the Southeastern USA. Not sure about the rest of the country besides California which doesn't have it.
Your quench pads are doing just a little bit less than they ysed to...
That's true
Bad line bore???
Noice
As much as i want a 427 sbc... dollar per hp is just not there. 700hp for a 20-25k engine.
Why don't y'all use a timing belt
I always appreciate it when mistakes are shown, talked about. It shows honesty, human fallibility we all have and the desire to educate others so they, hopefully, don't make the same mistake. So, for that, Thank You.
That said, awesome build and video.
Much respect to everyone responsible for doing all the block work.
I like how you're keeping it SBC powered.
America!!!
Good to see a new show, and certainly was not disappointed. I get educated with every episode and I never knew milling magnetised blocks. I love all the nuts and bolts stuff, All the very best from Scotland
Main caps warping from heat is another great tip Iv never heard before.
Those are some great dyno numbers, especially at just 5 psi of boost. Definitely a monster engine. Great video as always. ✌😁
5psi is all?!?
HOLY SHIIIATTTT!
I was wondering why only 600ish HP when NA 427's can do that....
With 10psi, that thing should have went 1000hp+ (EASY)!!
@@ICONBADGTA this engine and a V7 ysi kit they sell..it'll do it with more cam
@@KingJT80 383 did it with 10PSI... Don't know why they couldn't do it with a lot more cubes on this engine... ua-cam.com/video/1o93Myy2CP0/v-deo.html
I would redrill the bracket and move the idler further under the blower so you could get more wrap on the pulley. Bound to help with the slip😊
The blowers won't stand the rpm for very long.
@@Vintageguy73 bigger blower pulley? Less rpm’s on the blower. Just move the power band out a little.
You want slip: helps the engine from blowing up.
That block hitting the ground had to have been a hell of an “oh-shit” moment.
For real...there is ZERO chance I would have accepted that welded up pos...the way I look at it, I didn't bring a broken block to the shop, so the shop sure as hell isn't going to return to me a broken block...it sucks for them but they'd be buying me a NEW replacement...maybe they'll be more careful next time.
lool happened to me oce with engine head
Exactly my thoughts
Can you build a 400 sbc 427 stroker with a gen 1 (1970ish) block?
I wouldn't have let them weld the block, replacement should have been on them!
I have a Dart SHP 400 block and Scat forged 4" crank. Darp Pro 1 215 heads. Howards cam, FAST XFI efi. I have an Edelbrock Victor E single plane high rise intake.
The exhaust is a set of Schoenfeld headers with 2-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. The engine is making 5549hp at 6400 rpm and 545lbft of torque.
This is in my 1982 Corvette. I have a 4L80E transmission with a 3600 rpm stall converter. The transmission is controlled with a US-Shift TCU.
This setup is a real tire ripper.
😂😂 okay okay stop it my go-kart got more balls than that Buck Potter UA-cam We got some engines I might put more on my channel I don't know yet😅😅😅
Man top of the line engine masters at work!!
I wish I could afford those guys to do my machine shop work
Your channel is one of the first I ever subscribed too, and due largely in part to the build series you ran on this engine years ago. It used to kill me having to wait for the next episode to come out in that series. I always wondered why I never saw it go in the Camaro, and now I know. Excellent work, and that thing is a Monster! I now have hope to seeing it under the hood of the Camaro. Really appreciate the quality, and highly technical videos you produce. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for watching!
Awesome build guys! beautiful SBC with the Votec boost. Oh yeah I hear the belt squeal. That belt might need another idler pulley.
Why not use a new main Cap
2:30 I've had an engine shop drop an engine block. Shops are run by professional monkeys.
Bandaids don't work.
Newskin doesn't work.
Duct tape doesn't work.
After disinfecting a small cut, pat dry and set a small piece of paper towel over the wound.
Drops of CA glue will keep the wound closed. I've done this for 40 years, and never got an infection. It always works.
CA glue???
I could watch a skilled machinist all day.
You cant break anything he cant fix. No one can I dont think
Wow! That belt was waving more than the American flag on the 4th of July!
Still a great build and a fun watch! Thanks for the content!!!🙏🙏
You can manage that slip buy installing one of those grip or traction pulleys on the blower I noticed on my 95 mustang it helped with belt slip substantially plus the amount of tension can be dropped on the blower belt tensioner
You are right. Not a bad idea
Yes, vortech offers “high traction” pulleys on their website which have a textured surface. Note the sizes are slightly different (2.93” is a 3”, etc).
I didn’t see much different between normal and high traction, but have a much shorter belt in my setup. The belt on that 427 looks way too long that a second pulley is needed.
I SO LOVE IT ,GOT YOUR PRODUCT FROM YOU 2 + YEARS AGO ,.,LOVE IT GOOD TO SEE YOU STILL GOOD ',PS I LIKE PEOPLE WHO NEVER GIVE UP.,I WILL PURCHASE ANOTHER T- SHIRT ..,PPS PLEASE TRUST ME , I AM DYSLEXIC, I AM 68 ,TELL NOBODY YOU CAN'T DO IT ; CHEERS FORM OZ
Thanks! And continued good health to you!
What a great off road motor. Torque, torque,torque.
Wow! Love everything about this video, the topic, your humor, narration, and honesty when you F'd something up... I need to implement everything here to my channel, yes, including the Vortech. ha, ha. I subbed to learn from you. Keep it up!
Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!
I can only imagine how that crank feels at the front with that bigass pulley hanging off
Thats a procharger thing
Thats why there are sbc cranks made of timken bearing steel that have bbc snouts on them
Can the belt slippage be mitigated with more belt deflection? This is assuming it's worth it and you'd want to machine something else to force it to work...
Yeah I'm hearin' ya - there's always something that is NQR. Why can't they sort this stuff out? You know the moment I saw that long unsupported section of belt on the non drive side I thought this is going to be trouble.
Granted I am a mechanic so I tend to notice things I know are likely to be problematic, but this sort of thing is disappointing I reckon because it is so time consuming to rectify. Considering the effort they have in the belt and drive not to mention the price of the kit, why can't they just do it right once instead of leaving it to the consumer to grumble? It's not good for their reputation, the consumer gets annoyed - it's all just so, well, um, I don't know, unnecessary. I'd happily sacrifice 15hp if the belt didn't whip like this. It's not good enough!
I was probably more excited about this video then a grown man should've been
Keith is the MAN....
You are correct!
That small block will keep the ears pinned on you’re Camaro 😤
Whats it like hanging out with one of the gods of horsepower?? It must be awesome!!!
I feel like a smaller mild 350 would displace far less air and if the kit is configured in this manner (the pulleys size) the pressure will increase in the intake(bewst) and make the belt slip worse. Less pressure more flow>more pressure less flow. I think that setup will slip at the top on just about any engine unless it just doesn’t go past 5500😮 I’m not hating I love sc but you have to have belt wrap like maybe if it had a tension or idler on the bottom.
I have been around engines all my life.Taking into consideration how much an empty block weighs, how in the world did someone KNOCK it off of the bench ? I am curious.
Note to self if Machinist drops block he can buy another.
Normally, I'd agree, but in this case they were volunteering their time to help me out and be a part of the project. So there were no hard feelings and we just fixed it as best we could. Thanks for watching
Funny the supercharger kit doesn't use a spring tensioner to keep the belt tight. I can see the return side of the belt getting loose causing the slip. A spring tensioner would fix that.
You got part # for supercharger kit?
I Don't Comment Very Often, but i Just Had To Regarding This Video. -- i'm Going to Get Rite to the Point. -- Your ONLY Mistake U Made is, U Should Have DEMANDED the Machine Shop Buy U a NEW Engine Block, PERIOD!! -- Dropping a Customers NEW Engine Block & Damaging it is Inexcusable. -- Especially to the Point a Big Chuck of the Block BROKE Off & Needed to Be Welded Back On. -- News Flash, Everyone Who Has Ever Owned their Own Business with Employees has at One Time or Another Had a Employee F'-Up Something that Belonged to a Customer, & Guess What?? -- The Business Has to MAKE it Rite, Even if the Business Loses Money!! -- As an Example, my Friend Spent 5-yrs. Restoring a 1969 Camero, & had the Exterior Painted Black with White Stripes. -- After my Friend Got his Car Back, the Paint Immediately Started to Peel Off. -- The Owner of the Body Shop Personally Went to my Friends House & Did a Tape Test On the Paint itself. -- Put Some Tape On the Paint & then Peeled the Tape Off, & Yup, Paint Came Off with the Tape!! - & the Body Shop Had to Repaint the WHOLE Car with the White Stripes for FREE!! -- Now, that's How U Run a Business. -- Everybody F'-Up, Question is, What are U Going to Do to Make it Rite?? -- i'm "NO" Einstein, Far From it, & that Being Said, -- i Would Have Told U, that U were More Than Likely, Going to Have Problems with Your Build if U were to use the Repaired Engine Block, & U Did.
Pretty sure the Engine belt could be routed wrong and probably needed to wrap around the crank pulley in a different configuration. Hence the longer belt, but I could be totally wrong. Just a thought
Thanks for showing all the mix-ups and screwups, I bet that's how it really goes for most of us. Having to re-do an engine you already paid someone to do once is a real kick in the nads and a big hit to the wallet. Reminds me of when a dyno operator slammed the front-end of my pristine Buick GN into the dyno cooling fans, a 2-day dyno tune turned into a 14 month stay in body shop prison. It has cost me quite a bit to recover the expenses from that fiasco. Everyone I'm sure has similar stories of heartache with their hot rod. Like you I try and do everything myself but sometimes you have to turn it over to what you hope is a pro, in your case an engine builder, in mine a FAST XFI turner.
Can you remove one of the spark plugs and put a computer sensor to record high and low pressure in the cylinder at different speeds?
Nice! I’ve got a ‘78 z28 that would really benefit from that monster!
Great power, for an SBC (427 cubic inches). Too bad that a Coyote 4 valve and supercharger can blow your engine away. Over 1100 HP and able to rev to over 7K RPM. By the way, the FORD revs quicker.
Learned something from this video. I didn't know a crank could be magnetized.
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
If the belt didnt slip it wouodve made more
Really glad you got the engine fixed and back together. Maybe I'm getting old but I have no use for turbos or blowers, with the complexity and heat. The NA 427 is plenty for me.
@TheHorsepowerMonster - Did you end up opening the piston ring gaps for this blower, or no since you're only pushing 5lbs of boost. Pretty tame boost levels, even on a stock ring gap.
5:48 wow... I'm from India can I get this t shirt..... Awesome buddy 😎😎 greetings from India 🙏🤘🤘
I've experienced far too much belt slippage on blown serpentine drive setups. Wider belts and larger pulleys do help, but most bolt on kits don't have the development in terms of belt wrap that a factory setup would have.
Cogged belt upgrade seems like a must have item
I have pulled apart engines that had different sizes in the journals required two sets of bearings , the crank ended up ,.020"
.030", didn't know they made bearings in
. 030" under
:36 So it was making 525 hp, already.
Then ,when you added boost, it was making an impressive peak 525 hp?(23;12)
I understand that, "things happen," but I think whoever dropped the block should have bought a new one. Let them have the damaged one. Just sayin. 🤷🏼♂️
3.875 is much stroke as you want to put in a stock SBC it way to much work to go with a 4.00 “ stroke .😮
What was or would be if we(viewers)had to pay for having all of the professionals do each of the needed tasks that is showed in this video. Sometimes buying an engine already built??!!?!
🤔. Please forgive me but I just started watching the video but it's a high-output motor already and going to a low boost power add-on 🤔🤔🤔
I own bunch of blower’s from the blower shop and they are the finest period. Never had a problem and built like Donald Trump bulletproof
Bondery layer air is a problem with flat belts. Need to drill the pulleys so the air has somewhere to go
EVER SMOKED A CAM BECAUSE OF CHANGING ROCKET ARM RATIO...ON A COMP HYDRAULIC ..
I HAVE.....WENT BACK TO SOLIDS WITH STANDARD 1.5 ROLLERS
I’m sure you lost hp on dyno before with all that friction.
I don't think it matters with vortex you're always going to get slip I put an extra tensioners and pulleys on there to keep the belt from slapping around and you always end up throwing a belt when you're having the most fun better carry an extra one in your car
EXCELLENT WELDER HUH.....
HE HAD TO HEAT THE CAST IRON TO WELD IT....THEY SHOULD HAVE LINE BORED AND SQUARED THE BLOCK...
HOT TANKED AGAIN
TOSSED CAM BERRINGS....REDECKED THE BLOCK.....CHECKED ROUNDNESS OF THE BORES......
Could have saved a bunch of money and effort with a 150 shot of nitrous. 5.5 lbs of boost, why bother?
Because you then need to fill bottles over and over, heat them up, change bottles in & out ect ect. Forced induction is far superior to nitrous in almost every way, especially when running a modern EFI setup. Plus he still could put a single kit on it.
@@jdmmike7225 How much is that supercharger setup, because you can purchase an awful lot of nitrous before any cost benefit. I do agree that in many cases, the bottle always seems empty when you need it most.
One thing many people don't think about is that really small 25 HP dryshot is awesome for spooling turbos and the bottle lasts damn near forever if you do it right.
@@mpeugeot Im not sure, im not really a fan of centrifugal blower setups, I'd much rather use the waste of an engine to make more power with a turbocharger than take some power to make some power with a blower. Using nitrous to help spool is quite common at the drag strip & on drifting circuits. However with how advanced engine management has come in the last few years it isnt needed as much because ECU's can now use timing changes to create an anti-lag. No more having to inject fuel directly into the turbine.
@@jdmmike7225 Centrifugal blowers encompass the worst attributes of forced induction systems. Turbos are probably top of the food chain, but I personally love the sound of a twin screw and they are close in efficiency to the turbo (and have certain attributes that make them attractive in some applications). A centrifugal blower is generally my last choice, but certainly is better than no boost at all.
@@mpeugeot Technically top of the food chain in term of efficiency when it comes to forced induction is actually a Screw blower. They are actually alil more efficient than a turbo. The only problem is they take quite a bit of power to spin so they're not very economical on smaller displacement engines. Next comes turbos & with advancing technology they are catching up on screw blowers. Screws used to have like 12-13% more efficiency now its like 5-8%. Next is a roots style blower, like the old school 6-71 GMC blowers that hot rods used in the 50's and 60's. And finally is centrifugal blowers or procharger. As you said they're the worst of both worlds.
Put a 90 on it instead of that air cleaner looking hat. I wonder what the horsepower difference would be
THANK YOU FOR NOT SAYING "WHAT'S UP EVERYBODY?"
Do magnetic and all that is discharge when you balanced and blueprinted... Would you should always do after do any machine work on cranks
Super glue is great where stitches and bandaid are not practical 🤘
As a machinist,indicating things in is way more important than the actual cutting..
I live in the boondocks in Alabama there one race car builder around here and he always says "there ant nothing time and money can't fix"
I mean i get ur not trying to give the shop that dropped the block a hard time but they should have absolutely replaced the block no questions asked