The Ferrari which won't turn right! The InfluEnzo is back!
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- I've been using the InfluEnzo a fair amount recently for comparison videos and so on so you would be forgiven for thinking my Ferrari 308 wasn't throwing up any other problems. But you would be wrong. Now the engine misfires or bogs down on right handers...
Jack: "Hi Iain, it's Jack here yet again"
Iain: "Hello Jack, did you put me on speed dial as I suggested?"
Jack: "I did, you're at position one"
Iain: "Good to hear. Now, what is the problem?"
Jack: "I messed with your carburettor tuning".
Iain: "Click! Beep ... Beep ... Beep ... Beep ..."
Jack: "Hello? Are you still there?"
🤣🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂
Jack..Bless you...your a very likeable normal guy....like 99% of us...never miss a show....keeping it real and attempting to fix with deduction....the Oxford Dictionary should have another definition for patience....Jack and his Ferrari
What he said :)
Thank you chap, have a great weekend ‘
I find it hard to believe that the low G corners are upsetting all 4 carbs that much and it having such an instant effect.
whilst it sounds like starvation, indeed it is suspiciously easily triggered..- u eould expect say a 40 mph roundabout on lap 2 kinda situation - would like to see such a test
I agree, it’s got to be something else, could even be a bad earth
I spent ages messing with the floats on a 70s CB750 until I found two of the floats were rubbing on the bowl sides and hooking up some of the time. Intermittant faults can be a pig. You may be getting rubbing caused by the right turn forces.
Good one
There are lambda tools, that can stay in the exhaust while driving. Get one, go to some big space and drive left and right circles. Watch the lambda value. You will see if there is too much or not enough fuel.
That gets my vote.
Exactly what I was thinking
If it's misfiring, generally a lambda won't be helpful as it will show lean, regardless of a lean or rich misfire
@@ross2482
Not if it’s a Lean or rich misfire not an electrical misfire.
Years ago I had a Capri 2.8i that would cut out when turning right, roundabouts were frustrating! It was the wire on the fuel pump relay, it had come loose and when turning right the relay would move and the wire would break contact. Took a while to find that one
that wouldn’t cause the problem he’s getting because there’s a certain reservoir of fuel in the carb, whereas injection totally relies on the pump
@@eliotmansfield yep
@@eliotmansfield I wasn't suggesting it was the problem in this case its purely an anecdote
Jack, Ferrari experts don't like to give away their secrets, but there is a common fix for fuel starvation on right hand turns. The large floats do not allow for enough fuel in the bowls and on right turns the heavy floats swing to shut the needle valve. You can buy squashed floats with less volume allowing for more fuel in the float bowl. Make sure you regulate fuel pressure if you go with the smaller volume floats.
Great idea
Yes but the standard floats & carbs worked fine from the factory so there must be another issue (something else moving when turning). The fuel will not move to the side enough at those low cornering speeds & there will be hardly any fuel usage from the engine to drop the levels in the float chambers anyway.
Oh boy, the infamous 308 carbs again! I remember spending many an hour checking, cleaning, rechecking, adjusting, and then praying that all will be well. I asked the technician who was my mentor at the time, why are these things always out of balance every time the cars come in for service. He replied with a perfectly straight face "well, the customer has been driving them". Aahhh!
Try using the depth gauge end of your vernier caliper to measure the bowl height, it's easier to read.
You have the patience of a saint, I admire your resilience so much Jack. As an owner of a Lexus ISF I just couldn’t put up with all these niggles, but that’s why I’m happily watching enjoying your content 😉
Cool cars those, enjoy your Lexus and thanks for watching!
Jack the best advice for any older carb car is to install an aftermarket wideband sensor. You need to see the AFR's and use it to diagnose the carb problems. I suggest getting an analog style one, I use it in my Healey and it changed the entire way I tune the car. You can wire it completely independently of the cars harness and it's basically the single best thing you can do for a classic car. It also will allow you to customize the idle jet, emulsion, and mains, etc. Sometimes the factory setup isn't ideal.
First - those glass fuel filters with metal ends look nice, but they're crap. They will fail where the ends meet the glass and they'll leak. Go get a plastic disposable unit for less than 5 quid. Second - the MAJORITY OF RUNNING PROBLEMS ARE ELECTRIC. Jack: I think I'll tear into the carbs...again. Intuitively it doesn't seem like carbs since the bogging down is so instantaneous on right turn only even at very slow speeds where there's very little lateral acceleration that might be sloshing fuel in the carbs. My prediction: you have an electrical problem either with ignition system or even something as simple as a wire that's chafing/shorting in the steering column assembly near the ignition switch. As others have said, test with car in place. Don't jack it up, just park with front wheels on some magazines. Then start the car, get revs to even the modest 1500 where you felt the bogging in the neighborhood, then turn steering to the right - the wheels should turn very nicely on the slippery pages of the magazine. This is easy to test without having to lift the car!! If no issue while parked, I'd then start to look at every wire of the ignition system in the engine compartment. I would look at and touch the carbs LAST.
Yes it's like a low tension problems
@Mitch, i said the same thing, but thanks for a better descriptive way of conveying what i was getting at !, thanks m8
Ah, the InfluEnzo - the gift that keeps on giving. Or whatever the exact opposite is
🤷🏻♂️
As with most Ferrari’s, most carb issues are actually ignition issues. Stock ignition system is awful. Add two MSD boxes or the like. Helps a ton
He's got nothing to loose, right !? Good call.
@@marcryvon
lose
@@marcryvon Yes he has got something to lose !... weight of his wallet will be greatly reduced !.
The car wizard has gone a similar route with removing the distributor.
@@johnchurch4705 yep I would recommend he switch over to the msd.
Ever the optimist.Fair play to you Jack. I would have given up ages ago.😂
Back in 1982 I was watching an epsode of "MIAMI VICE " where Crockett had gone to his mechanic and had a problem with His 12 carborators on the black 365 GTC/4 Ferrari!! The mechanic andy explained "Look Crockett It takes 8 hours to sync that mess so don't give me any crap, next time,just blow them out!! You know if i charged rate it would be an easy $4,000"!
Sounds lean and what surprises me is the immediacy of the stumble. One would think that there would be fuel in the bowl and on any initial right turn would not show a stumble. The stumble would develop after the fuel ran dry.
I note the float pivot is to the right hand side. On a left hander centrifugal force would make it drop while a right hander would make it rise. The mass of the floats vs the buoyancy would have an influence. Maybe try weighing them and see if there is an inconsistency within the population or against a factory fresh one.
That fuel level in the bowl looks awfully low to me. I agree with your statement that it is going lean. It's not rich, or there would be a burble when the turns were made.
A quick way to verify if float level is correct is to observe what is happening at the needle valve when the float is LEVEL and parallel with the carb body. Perhaps the specs are wrong?
You have an oil consumption issue - maybe vent the PCV to atmosphere for a quick test and see if it bogs. Maybe it's getting a lung full of oil mist when you take a right hander ;)
This is has been suggested many times in the comments yet he seems reluctant to address it.
you are so chilled about all the probs hope you fix this one best of luck
Those type of problems drive me crazy, but I am sure there will be plenty of viewers with some great suggestions to try.
Since everyone else has chimed in I will too. I would consider eliminating some of the major items; perhaps rig up a motosport fueltank if you can borrow one. Then swap out the fuel pump and relay (if there is one). Check the fuel pressure at the carbs. Re the floats, have they become deformed with age, are they displacing too much fuel and leaving the bowl low? Maybe new floats and arms. I'll get back to my tea and biscuits and look forward to the next episode.
Still greatly enjoy seeing you struggle with the influenzo like so many of us back yard mechanics do
Hi Jack, never ever get bored with your videos especially the Influenzo !
You have the patience of a saint dealing with the Influenzo
I'm sure you will eventually figure out the carb fueling problem, but in the meantime replace that glass bodied fuel filter with a standard one piece unit. Those serviceable glass bodied fuel filters are notorious for the ends coming loose causing a huge fuel leak and burning the car to the ground. It would be an awful shame to see that happen to the InfluEnzo!
Looking at this from the perspective of an old Honda motorcycle owner, check the tangs on the floats for dimples. On my '76 550F the float needles had over time worn little dimples in the brass of the float tang and the float would hang up a bit and not properly close the needle. I sanded the tangs very gently with 120 grit paper to remove as much as possible then went to 400 to polish it a bit. And definitely make sure the two sides of the float are perfectly parallel.
Thanks for posting . I thought I wanted a carb 308 , but I guess not . Enjoying watching you sort this car out.
Another area to check is fuel pressure, these like a very tight range of 2.5-3.0 PSI. Installing a simple fuel pressure sensor somewhere near the carb feed is another great idea.
Great float bowl suspense! Please continue to experiment with them.
Like many others here, I think it's ELECTRICAL. I had exactly the same symptoms 50 years ago in a TR 4A. Turned out to be wire chafing in the hub of the steering column. When the wheel was turned to the right there was a partial short circuit to earth. It didn't happen for long enough to blow a fuse, but it was sufficent to drop the voltage to a point where the ignition system started to fail. As another poster said, jack up the front and turn the steering wheel and see if that affects it. Ideally put a meter in series with the ignition system and watch if there's any indication of a short ciciit. Best of luck, I love your channel.
solid advice
Jack, in the Oxford English Dictionary you'll be listed in the definition of perseverance at this rate. Good luck.
Thanks!! All get there eventually
A Ferrari specialist would be my first port of call, leave it with them pick it up once it’s all fixed, faffing around with it would frustrate most people, the gasket is probably goosed on the carb because of the constant removal to check float level. Trying carb cleaner or a service kit might help as those floats may have play in them.
Great video your enthusiasm and energy for getting this great car to be running nicely is infectious and great to witness. Please keep positing great videos like this so we can share in your enthusiasm.
I love the Influenzo series, its an absolute hoot!! Just when you think its all good, suddenly its not!! Yeah, you know I would toss that stock ignition system and fit that kit that's available, you fit a crank angle sensor, it has an ignition map programmed into the module, its pretty cool.
I'd get that happening first and then look at fuel related issues.......
I'd also love to come to the UK and give you a hand!!
I'm not a Ferrari expert, but I had a lot of carburated cars.
In my opinion the Fuel in the float chamber is not enough.
I still can't reproduce how this would work when the car is new.
Maybe you should try the following:
- get a high flow Fuel Pump, that delivers more fuel flow to the carbs
- get smaller floats, so that at the same float height you have more fuel in that float chamber
-try to see if you can increase the fuel flow into the float chamber by changing jets, or rework them
-use a lambda sond to see if it's running lean or rich
-try to consult a weber carburetors specialist, not only a Ferrari specialist
I admire your patience, and your systematic Troubleshooting 👍🏼
I hope the Influenzo will pay back some day!
The Influenzo definitely demands a lot of attention Jack! It must drive you crazy bud but I’m sure you’ll fettle her just keep persevering! ……….. like I said it must be frustrating sometimes but it’s all really entertaining content 👍
Stick with it Jack, fully behind you, you’ll get there 👍
Hi Jack, Hope your well...good to see your video up.
I have heard that they do a plastic float kit replacement and these don't get effected by centrafugal forces as much, I am no expert on the mater but it may be worth a look.
Make sure you have no floating debris in your tank too and pump is strong..
All the best, hope you get to the bottom of it.
Hi
I absolutely love your videos.
Given the opportunity at maybe a car show I would love to have a beer 🍺 with you.👏👏👏
Hose on the fuel inlet and blow as you raise the float. They should all 'cut off' at the same height.. get them all the same and start there. I would guess the fuel is too high rather than too low because if it was too low you'd get a delayed response as there will still be fuel in the carbs as you're enter the turn whereas your problem is pretty much instantaneous.
Or clear gauge pipe connected to bowl drain hole to see actual fuel heights when fitted to car ? Obviously there is no fuel in floats!
@@denisw398 Yep. If only to eliminate it as a problem.
As I am sure ithers have said before me ... Please check the fuel pressure with a basic gauge in the engine bay where the fuel hose hooks into the carb delivery line(s) - look for about 3 psi (+ -). The low fuel in the float bowl was shortly after the car was running ( < 3 hours - fuel evaporation) than that is way low and would be a symptom of inadequate supply. With the lid off there should be a good amount of fuel in there so you would not question this at all, But yours was definitely l o w. Those style facet fuel pumps are pretty darn reliable for pressure and volume although there are a number of different specs they are available with, But in your demo here there was no supply demand required going around a little nothing corner on your idle circuit - again the super low level in the float bowl would be a plausible cause, but likely a bit more to it. Another check should be the in pump fuel strainer filter. I believe the hex on the bottom is for a 3/4" socket (could be wrong here) remove the piece and there will be a strainer filter that probably should be checked - its a possibility and is easy to do, just have a catch basin there to take the 1/4 cup or so of fuel that will drop out. There also little strainer type filters in the carb lids at the inlet which are easy enough to check and rinse clean if needed. Finally just do a simple needle valve check - verify the correct size (probably 175) and do a blow through with your mouth to the inlet (cleaned, of courser) and blow a little air in while opening and closing off the needle by moving the float. It should close off sharply and pass air freely when open. Just a nuance check to cross off the list of unlikely but possible sources. I am not in the electrical camp on this one, issues there are very binary - its either throwing a spark or its not. One more ez check are the accelerator pump jets (and there diaphrams) with smallish opening of the throttle plate do they all squirt roughly equal fuel streams down the barrel, if not that can cause hesitation on mild throttle inputs when giving slightly more pedal to accomodate the extra power required to maintain speed while cornering - again pretty far fetched but ....
I've been struggling with similar issues.
I'm running duel Dellorto's and had one intermittent lean cylinder.
All the floats set as per the Superformance tech book, multiple cleans in the ultrasonic cleaner but could not solve it.
In the end I had to adjust the floats for a 2mm higher level and the lean issue has been resolved.
It's obviously enriched all the idle circuits so I'll fettle the jet sizes down to find a happy spot.
@Number 27 Hi! I got a wideband lambda sensor We can connect to the exhaust and log some data to help diagnostics. As long a you are willing to add the required modification to your exhaust ( hole and weld a nut). Monitorig thst might be a good idea for long term.
Keep at it Jack. I have always loved the 308's. Still way better than a squashed VW Beetle (Porsche) even when acting up.
You'll get there!!!!!!
Nearly every time I watch you, your wearing what look like PJ pants at some point in the video
When u said you might be able to fix it, I laughed out loud 🤣🤣🤣. Not because I don't think u will, but because its never straight forward. Stay positive 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Jay!!
It is becoming intriguing , keep it up , we are very interested in the outcome . Hi from Malta.
I always enjoy your Ferrari episodes. Keep it coming! You will solve it sooner or later.
We will never get tired of the influenzo Jack! It’s like a drug now 😆
Don’t give up Jack!! I’m sure it’ll all fall into place at some point. Thanks for the honest warts and all content 👍
Definitely love the influenzo videos! Don't stop! Really weird problem. People are saying electrical issue, but if it's a common problem on these you would think there would be a well known spot to check. Hmmmmm....
Maybe blank off the overflow passages to prove under or over fueling. Also perhaps syringe out each bowl to measure the quantity held in the bowl as a confirmation that all four are set the same. Then O2 sensors to work out what's actually going on in the engine.
It seems to bog down instantly when you turn even at low speed. Sounds more like an electrical gremlin....
I can agree with that. An engine can run for a long time on one float chamber of fuel before it cuts. This problem is almost instant, like the ignition is being interrupted.
It does point to an electrical issue rather than fuel. I would be checking the low tension circuit , ignition to fuse, to the coil and/or distributor, maybe a loose wire is stopping the spark. Does the loom go near the steering anywhere ?
I thought the same thing, it's happening at such low speed and so immediately, I can't believe it's the G-force doing anything with the fuel level.
OMG Jack... I think the Influenzo needs an Intervention. Best of Luck Mate!
I have been watching you fight this Influenzo fro so long now, and thank you for that. Through lockdown this has been a great pleasure. Now though, and not good for your UA-cam life, but my advice, sell this and buy a new Skoda VRs.
Just a thought... did you try the floats below 48mm? Seemed like 50mm no change, but 52mm made it worse all 'round so perhaps worth trying at 46mm?
They are slightly below already at 47 but can’t go any lower as they hit the carb lid…
Look on the bright side.....all this work has left you with a very clean engine :)
Please check electrical connections St Jack of Influenzo! You've bumped this car around a lot with all the works done (steering, engine, sills etc), & if only happening on one side, as other have said, a loose connection? This is a new issue, that didn't happen before when your carbs were sorted, so should be something else?
Great to see you're still positive, & good luck in sorting out this latest 'character'!
Jack,
Those cheap glass fuel filters are useful for short-term use for diagnostic purposes but should not be used permanently. They are prone to coming apart or breaking, either of which can result in a fairly significant fire! I’ve known several people who suffered catastrophic losses as a result, and I myself had one fail but discovered it before disaster struck. Get yourself a cheap, solid metal filter. They aren’t sexy but they work, and are infinitely safer.
As an aside, my 1980s VWs suffer from fuel starvation around right-hand turns, but only when the fuel tank is 1/4 or less. Fuel sloshes up the side of the tank under cornering loads and starves the fuel pickup. Due to the immediacy of the failure in your car I doubt that’s your problem, but it wouldn’t hurt to ensure the tank is topped up when conducting further troubleshooting?
Good luck! We’re all pulling for you!
Honestly I’m feeling that pain.
There has been quite a few good suggestions. Really hope you get a small win
On my motorbike you double check the float heights by measuring the height of the fuel. With the carbs in a jig, I stick a clear hose on the fuel drains and open them up to let fuel in, then measure the height from the top of the bowl.
Get it on a ramp or 4 axle stands, put in gear and drive then turn the wheel and see if it does it. If it does you know it’s nothing to do with the fuel moving around.
That's a really good suggestion!
Jack is an inspiration for all the ones who love classic cars, if it was me, my wife and my kids would be very angry with me... this is only possible with family support
Interesting video again Jack, but I think most people would have moved this car on by now, got to admire your enthusiasm/dedication to this wee Ferrari though.
my 4x4 would do this - it was fuel slosh. Discovered by using a wideband lambda sensor which will tell you if it’s going rich or lean - also very handy for general fuel mixture calibration rather than messing about trying to do plug chops
Sorry about your continued difficulties… keep your chin up, you will tackle this as well…
When I heard the issues I immediately thought "That sounds like a poor electrical connection". When you turn right I bet a wire or cable somewhere is swinging out and either earthing on something, or just isn't connected securely. It almost sounds like a poor battery contact. I had it once on my Elise causing a similar stuttering effect.
Bowl height of the carbs would be the first thing I would check...
Not just the height, but you can also blow in the gas inlet so you can tell if they actually open and close fuel flow at the same height.
I like this kind of problems.
You can check the fuel cutoff by putting the floats in a bowl of water, and check if all the floats cutoff at the same height.
Good luck and have fun!
Hi Jack , have your thought about removing the carb tops again checking there is plenty of petrol in the float chambers and then throwing a lighted match in them !!!!don’t know how you keep going 😫but please do , think we need a bank holiday when all the issues have been fixed on the one 🎉
Have you checked the needle valves themselves Jack? They can stick shut. If you take them out the needle should drop off, of it's seat under it's own weight. If it doesn't then change them.
Any thoughts on actual fuel pressure? I'm not sure what the fuel pressure should be on Weber's, but maybe worth looking into. Any chance the pump could be failing? Just trying to be constructive and give you something to chew on.
Good luck Jack.
There was a lot of air in that filter ??
I would have made a coffee table by now...
😂😂
with the engine or to chill next to behind the car?!
Love the influEnzo! Even the lucky PJs didn’t work 😭
Suggestion:
1. Jack up the right side of the car on your driveway so it leans to the left.
2. Start the car and use a helper or object to hold revs around 1500. Presumably the engine misfires now.*
3. Use Iain’s hose method to identify the misbehaving cylinder(s)
4. Swap carbs around to see if the problem cylinder moves.
Now you either know which carb is giving you trouble, or you know it isn’t the carbs at all.
* if the car doesn’t misfire when tilted, then maybe the correlation is with steering lock rather than lateral Gs, so have your helper turn the steering wheel and see if anything changes.
Jack up the car only slightly. That should be adequate. I’m told it is possible to break the rear windows on these cars by jacking them unevenly.
I’m no expert, but this is what I think I’d do in your place. Good luck.
I'd check to see what the float height is when the valve actually closes. Blow in the fuel inlet pipe and put the float through its range of motion and figure out when the float actuates the valve.
The little lever that acts on the needle hopefully haven't been molested, but one of them may be closing the valve early???? Something to check.
Other than that, go to 45 and see if it changes.
Jack you have definitely confirmed the myth that there is no such thing as cheap Ferrari 🏎great video 😎👍
Could it be a broken electrical conductor that's breaking contact on right turns? Try wiring the ignition direct to battery (coil if it has one) and see if it makes any difference. It'll either solve the problem or eliminate the possibility if no difference.
Stu Mac, exactly what I was thinking, I've had this same problem, albeit with a VW Beetle but a bad power connector in the wire to the ignition coil gave exactly the same result, had me tearing my hair out. Used the direct "hot wire" trick which showed up the problem by taking it away.
I also had a problem with my Nissan 300ZX cutting out on sharp corners and found no answers on forums etc. I had just replaced coil packs and injectors. In the end another issue revealed the cause: a well hidden after market immobiliser had come loose from its mount and was hanging on its own wiring harness. Cornering induced enough momentum to stretch the wires and somewhere/somehow the immobiliser activated to cut the fuel pump. As soon as the car stopped and the ignition was turned on, the circuit reset, so the issue never persisted and was a puzzle. Wiring that is marginal can get 'iffy' on cornering, for sure.
Yep. Thought the same. Found a broken earth wire once that opened up on turns
@@themuseicman definitely agree, because it was running fine after he'd seen Iain Tyrrell, it handled both left and right changes in direction without that "flutter".
37 years ago I had a Rover SD1 V8, it developed a cut out, total fuel stoppage. leave it for a coupler of minutes and it would fire up!
I was sent down the wrong road, someone said the Lucas Opus distributer is the fault, so i changed it for an non electronic type, no change. Then I read in a mag that on the fuel pump, in the tank there was a little rubber elbow that could fall off either end. Checked the unit and rubber elbow was fine however the fault became apparent. One of the pins on the electrical feed to the motor had sheared, go over a bump ,lose power to the pump, car stops as fuel supply drops. Got a new pump and fixed!
Something about that opening clip Jack, that makes you look like “The Nutty Professor “! Love your vids and the content.
I would check the fuel pump. After seeing the way the fuel filter was half empty with the pump running...it could have possibly lost some grunt over time causing starvation in the corners. It's just a suggestion
I'd be careful if I was you Jack, If you breakdown (god forbid) wearing your pyjama bottoms don't get out of the car, anyone seeing you will think you've escaped from the local institution and nicked a Ferrari..,
He might be happy to go there givens his trials and tribulations with this car.
🤣🤣🤣
How about measuring the relative fuel level height when all the carbs are full. Cold engine start, switch off, remove carb tops, measure down to fuel surface. Then adjust floats to level all the carbs together and work up or down from there. Good luck
my fiesta used to misfire on roundabouts. turned the coil to sit upright - fixed -low level of oil in coil exposed windings to air + it shorted out.
the bloke who said buy different [smaller floats] may be on to something, - this modern [shite] fuel dosent like carbs because of its density, more fuel in chamber will reduce the side effects.
Hi! I talked to a mechanic, who is used to this carburettor 308s. He watched the video and said, that he would check the ignition system. It’s unlikely that the carburettors are responsible for this problem. The fuse box is also worth a closer look … I’m sure you will find out. Keep on doing it!!
Thanks buddy... the fusebox is new and upgraded!
Excellent Jack!! This is totally compulsive viewing.
Are you sure there is supposed to be all that air in the fuel filter when running? And yes maybe some of the float arms are bent so their travel profile changes.
This is one of the best mysteries I have EVER watched.
Keep going!! You will get there!
(Then I will be sad, because the series will end)
Don’t worry.. fixing this car will never end!!
I had a similar problem on my TR6 with SU's. It would run fine, but would not go up hills without fuel starvation. Used to drive me mad. In the end I had new carbs made which sorted it. Never did know what the problem was.
What the neighbours must think seeing you driving round and round in circles on the estate “that strange man is at it again”.
I am very glad, even though you missed my chats on Instagram, that you did what I suggested. Which is taking a look at the fuel feed between tank and the carbs, being indeed the fuel filters.
Also, what I would do is to eliminate an intermediate fuel filter. Those are known to cause major potential problems going from the smallest twostroke moped engine to aircraft star engines, to boat engines and to car engines. Just have the correct and clean adjacent to the fuel pump filter, and there you go. No need to have an additional fuel filter. Trust me. My father is a pilot in aircraft acrobatics and he must be able to count 100% on the engine. Fuel supply is the major key here. Those aftermarket bypass filters are always rubbish and will eventually play a certain role to a certain amount in some kind of vague problems with the engine, that ight even suggest symptoms related to ignition, whereas it is only the small fuel filter being the main concern. And that goes for all sorts of reasons: sucking in additional air, not having a good basal flow, and even other causes.
I also still think that the so said tune up the maestro did to your Ferrari was totally wrong. He should have checked fuel supply between tank and carbs. It is total nonsense to "tune up" the carbs when the first part being the supply hasn't been ruled out. To me that was total circus what he was doing. I am sorry.
Good luck. And thanks for the video!
Thanks buddy, I surely check all messages on insta,. Maybe I didn’t miss it? This car only has one fuel fuel get though.. there is no intermediate one!
@@Number27 no in tank strainer or some sort of first very fine filter?
One day, there will be a glorious memorable drive… at it will all be worth it!
Fuel starvation, you can crack this Jack, but don’t starve us of the influenza, great channel, 👍👍👍.
Jack, I had a carbed 308 GTS like you and bought quite a few contemporary road test reports. Several of them commented on this "feature" - which indeed my own car suffered from. I wouldn't want to say you'll never fix it, but I'd suggest that it's a design or installation issue rather than a problem with your particular car.
Broken wire to the coil which flexes as you turn right is my guess. After all, the engine didn't used to have this problem so why would the floats have changed? On the other hand the dizzy has ben on and off several times and old wires don't like to be fiddled with too much as they get brittle with age. The fault seems too instant to be fuel - fuel levels in carbs take a while to change. Misfires can feel surprisingly like fuel issues and once you have an idea in your head it can hamper objectivity. Anyway, I bet it's a broken wire making and braking the circuit. Try just moving the various wires by hand with engine idling and see if you can replicate a misfire.
Try THIS^ Jack. That hesitation was too instantaneous and at too low a speed (in my opinion) to be fuel related. Either that, or something else electrical.
Now that is a quirk! If not a feature, Doug!
I've never seen anyone so happy to discover another fault with their car. Jack rubs hands together as he finds more material for a UA-cam vid 😉
Check your battery connections and clean them with sandpaper . It was the problem with my oldtimer while cornering and after speedbumps. Good luck!
Thank you for yet another reminder of why I don't want a vintage Italian car.
One thing is for sure, if you decide to sell it, the new owner will get a very well sorted car !
I had the same problem with a Weber 45 DCOE. Eventually I went to TB’s and fuel injection and never looked back.
looks like there is a filter in the fuel inlet pipe on each carb top the big nut will cover a small sintered filter, if partly blocked will starve the fuel.