Honestly, I just slammed my hand on the control panel in extreme Hulk rage, and I fixed it. Either my car loved the abuse or it feared destruction. Saved me 25 mins of work!
You're a life saver! My drivers side window had been playing up intermittently for months and finally just went down and stayed there. My car is parked outside and the window was stuck down, so it was a security issue and rain issue. The workshop couldn't look at it for 5 days and I am sure they would have just stung me for a new motor. I fixed it myself and have a fully working window now. Awesome! 👍
Great video, it put me on the right track. You are cleaning the armature which is okay but probably not the root cause. While rotating and cleaning it your disturbing the brushes and that's probably why it starts working again for a while. This is what I did with the motor... 1st notice the height any part of it is, you need this nearish to get the cover back on when reassembling. The top of the commutator poking up is good. Holding the armature, unscrewed it out (anti-clockwise) until it stops rising and then carefully lift it up past the brushes. (Mine actually unscrewed itself out as I lifted the cover off - the commutator came with it!) This gives access to the commutator and brushes. On mine the commutator was totally coated, so use electrical solvent or the rubbing alcohol as you suggested. Clean the ends/sides of the 2 brushes, ensure they are freely sprung, and clean all the brush dust from around there (don't poke it down in to the worm/screw part of the gearing!) When reassembling be VERY VERY careful, use a small screwdriver to hold back 1 of the brushes and GENTLY wiggle the commutator in as far as it will go, then screw it's worm all the way back down in to the gear. Hope that helps Your video made this job so easy Thanks a lot!!! :)
All good additions and explanations. I just did my motor and the commutator and brushes were amazingly filthy and gunked up. I did the above, but had a very hard time getting the commutator to fully seat back into the lower bushing. In trying to figure this out, I noticed that the upper bushing would also shift. It is held in by a circular "star" spring that allows the bushing to piviot a bit. I suspect that in the original assembly, the bushing is placed on the upper shaft and then pressed into this "star" spring as a combined unit. So alignment isn't an issue. There may be something similar happening in the lower bushing as well, but it is hard to see down there. I ended up filing a very small chamfer onto the bottom edge of the lower shaft. It was 1/32" to 1/16" at a 45 degree angle. After that, I was able to drop the shaft fully into the bushing. My commutator was very dirty. I not only cleaned the contacts with rubbing alcohol, but I also used a pencil eraser to clean enough so that the copper was visible. Alcohol and contact cleaner alone wouldn't do that. The eraser seemed like the weakest abrasive that I could use. I didn't want to wear away any of the copper. I noticed what appeared to be grind spots on the outer portion of the steel armatures on my motor. That suggests that they were rubbing on the magnets in the brass cover. But I saw no evidence of wear on the magnets. Also, my armatures were pretty clean. All the gunk was down with the commutator and brushes. I easily went through a dozen Q-tips to clean both. two final tips. When I was cleaning the brushes and general area, I wound a paper towel very tight and poked it into the hole below so that alcohol and debris would not drop into the bushing and/or onto the driven nylon gear. I removed it with needle nosed pliers. I also put a small amount of light grease on the worm gear and the ends of the commutator shaft when re-assembling. The motor is working perfectly now. Time will tell if the fix will last.
Did you ever when you were a little girl, skip down the road? Well you are not a little girl now so quit skipping steps. Usually when you become so familiar at doing something, and trying to show others, you just assume people know this, or surely they know that, and just do not show them. This is a great learning video, just made to quickly, without total commitment to it. Thumbs up
You Sir are a superstar. I was one click away from ordering a new motor and regulator when I watch your video. Followed your instruction and have a perfectly working window. Many, many thanks for posting.
Hi Peter. Mine was the same, it would go down but I had to bash the door to get it to lift, and even then it was very slow. Did exactly what Blaine showed in the video and although it's only been a few weeks, it's been working perfectly since.
I just did this and see that my window motor bushings and magnets are worn unevenly on my 2006 350Z Roadster so I will be ordering a new motor. Thanks for this video, I am sure it saved me a ton of labor costs, assuming I get it back together.
Thanks bud for taking the time to do the vid. this Geezer just got a 2008 z with 24K miles, brought it home with top down and the passenger window won't go up. Your fix is certainly worth trying first !!
YourOldDog no problem man, keep in mind the motor will eventually need to be replaced, I bought a refurbished one on eBay for like $30 and it’s been working for a few years no issues!
@@MikeAnthony2007 simple...sweet...and to the point. And honest lol. It's funny how certain aspects of our cars are over designed...yet other parts are under designed. Door has twice as many bolts holding door together as needed. Said door's interior paint scratches just by being looked at wrong. Also...Said doors exterior handle's operational components are PLASTIC. Z/G platform has numerous examples of this. Damn you Nissan! You design art... but in the least 'designfullest' way possible lol. Gotta love it!
I don't agree. The least amount would be 8 IMO. But I have no problem with the 12 they used. I really appreciate that they have a panel that is removable. I've worked on many U.S. made cars that have no such interior door panel and they are a major pain to deal with. Having that removable inner panel is super nice.
@@jeremygalloway1348 I agree that the interior trim "paint" (seems like a thin rubber coating) is horrible - perhaps one of the worst interior design decisions I've ever seen in a car. I think it is bad enough to justify a recall.
I wonder if it could be the plug. Might try cleaning the contacts on the plug in case it doesn't work after you clean the motor contacts. Good video and thank you for your help! Yesterday I was able to make the motors work because the alarm system was messed up. I'm thinking it could be related to a weak battery. I will get a new battery and see if that helps.
Thank you for this simple fix! My driver door has been acting up for months. This makes me understand why smaking the door would get it going again. The commutator was more than likely arcing causing even more build up. Well tonight it quit completely so I will tackle this in the morning and thaks to you and your eye opening video Im cetain I can fix it once and for all!
@@CARSHOPBLOOM Theres a video on here where a guy takes a piece of emory cloth and clesns the commutator. He also cleaned excess grease that was getting inside the motor and on the commutator. Amother video shows how to reset the limts for up/dn..
I'm having a problem like others here, the window doesn't always work, slamming the door makes it work. My guess something somewhere is loose, has a intermittent connection. I suspect the motor is a permanent magnet motor, what you are calling contacts are just part of the rotor and cleaning it had nothing to do with the fix. The problem with things that fix themselves eventually unfix themselves. The window problem has been a pain for a few years now, the next problem that just surfaced, the door cannot be opened from inside. If the window is opened, can open the door by reaching through the window to the outside handle, but if you can't open the window, you are screwed. It would be nice to find the actual cause of the window problem, as I don't think anybody responding has found it. Jim
I opened my motor casing sprayed it out with electrical cleaner (safe, dissolvable) also the motor itself cleaned the tracks a little now it's working like it's new, goes right up to window closed height once door is closed.
Fix seems to be working on my 06 Touring. Just had trouble with the extra door light clips and I forgot to bolt the motor/ regulator back on to the inside of that last door panel that covers the window motor and regulator and it was dangling and scratched my tint off when I was finally able to test the window to see if it could go back up. All in all it took me about 2 hours because I couldn't fit the housing back on over the piece that we cleaned with the q tips for a while, not sure what the problem was there. Thanks for the video! Much appreciated!
Hey all I am in the process of replacing, well, reinstalling my window motor because it two of the three bolts and backed out and the motor was so loose it had started skip and strip the 3/8" drive. The problem is I cannot get the motor drive to turn in order to align it to the window regulator hole. I tried turning the motor by hand and the regulator with an extension but neither budge. Should I just replace my window regulator or is there a way to align the two? Thanks in advance.
Well, I tried it. Motor goes down smooth but is having trouble going up. Things I did differently is that I used a brake parts cleaner to blow out all the dust inside the motor. Perhaps I really do need a new motor. Or should I try cleaning it again?
So, yeah, bud, great work sharing your tip and the video, BUT , that metal rib stuff is NOT any sort of contact point. That is the motor armature. it basically holds the copper coils which turn into electromagnets and spin the motor drive axle while the whole assembly magnetically floats between the 2 permanent magnets in the casing you took off. The root cause is either worn out brushes (99%), gunk buildup in the bearings or bad bearings.
Actually, it is gunk buildup on the brushes and commutator. My bet is that him cleaning alcohol he used to clean the armature dripped down and washed some of the gunk off of the brushes and commutator. The situation of the motor I took apart suggests to me that they failed to put a seal below the commutator and brushes and grease and gunk eventually found it way up the shaft. An alternate explanation in my case is that the armature may have rubbed against the magnets (mine had grind marks) and the resulting iron dust dropped down and fouled the commutator and brushes. Either way, these commutator and brushes were heavily fouled. This may be compounded by worn brushes as well. Bearings are an unlikely factor.
Did mine today.. worked like a charm! Only thing is my dumbass forgot to bolt the motor housing back up before I put the plate and every damned thing else.. ugh!! Gotta take it back apart.
This is totally not the way to get to the motor. If you do what he does here, when you take all of the bolts and nuts off that inner panel, the window will fall down inside the door. Once that happens, its not impossible but very hard to get the window assembly back onto that panel. You also run a very high risk of scratching your window. The proper way to do this is to take out the glass which is actually really easy to do, then just unbolt the 10mm perimeter bolts that hold the inner panel to the door and leave the nuts that hold the motor/regulator there. Then, when the panel comes off, the motor and regulator comes off with the panel!
Was abit sceptical at first but since it was free I decided to try it anyways, I'm probably the most useless person when it comes to this sort of thing so it took me a while but it did infact fix the window. Window goes down fine but abit slow when going up so maybe the motor is going out? Even if it's a short term fix I'm happy, was driving me insane not being able to have my drivers side window down lol. Cheers.
Thanks, my passenger side window will not go up. New motor $39. all day long. Hmm. Get the motor if you're keeping the car. If you are a Fixit guy like me, I'll try fixing it. Cheers.
Honestly, I just slammed my hand on the control panel in extreme Hulk rage, and I fixed it. Either my car loved the abuse or it feared destruction. Saved me 25 mins of work!
DarkChaos751 nice! Wish that worked for me haha
Bro i just did that and it worked! I just slammed not hard and now it works damm
Brb ima go slam my control panel
... I cracked the panel
Shit actually worked for me years later man UA-cam LMFOAO🤣🤣
Just got my 350z and has the same problem ^^ love how the community helps other out great vid
You're a life saver! My drivers side window had been playing up intermittently for months and finally just went down and stayed there. My car is parked outside and the window was stuck down, so it was a security issue and rain issue. The workshop couldn't look at it for 5 days and I am sure they would have just stung me for a new motor. I fixed it myself and have a fully working window now. Awesome! 👍
How did it hold up?
@@julianaponte1997 Still working perfectly!
Glad I found your video. This just happened to me yesterday after owning my Z for over 10 years. Going to give this a try. Thanks man!
Did it work?
Great video, it put me on the right track. You are cleaning the armature which is okay but probably not the root cause.
While rotating and cleaning it your disturbing the brushes and that's probably why it starts working again for a while.
This is what I did with the motor...
1st notice the height any part of it is, you need this nearish to get the cover back on when reassembling. The top of the commutator poking up is good.
Holding the armature, unscrewed it out (anti-clockwise) until it stops rising and then carefully lift it up past the brushes. (Mine actually unscrewed itself out as I lifted the cover off - the commutator came with it!)
This gives access to the commutator and brushes.
On mine the commutator was totally coated, so use electrical solvent or the rubbing alcohol as you suggested.
Clean the ends/sides of the 2 brushes, ensure they are freely sprung, and clean all the brush dust from around there (don't poke it down in to the worm/screw part of the gearing!)
When reassembling be VERY VERY careful, use a small screwdriver to hold back 1 of the brushes and GENTLY wiggle the commutator in as far as it will go, then screw it's worm all the way back down in to the gear.
Hope that helps
Your video made this job so easy Thanks a lot!!! :)
Is this more of a permanent solution?
@@wasabikimchi7891 It should be. I think a lot depends on what is causing the commutator an brushes to get gunked up.
All good additions and explanations. I just did my motor and the commutator and brushes were amazingly filthy and gunked up.
I did the above, but had a very hard time getting the commutator to fully seat back into the lower bushing. In trying to figure this out, I noticed that the upper bushing would also shift. It is held in by a circular "star" spring that allows the bushing to piviot a bit. I suspect that in the original assembly, the bushing is placed on the upper shaft and then pressed into this "star" spring as a combined unit. So alignment isn't an issue.
There may be something similar happening in the lower bushing as well, but it is hard to see down there. I ended up filing a very small chamfer onto the bottom edge of the lower shaft. It was 1/32" to 1/16" at a 45 degree angle. After that, I was able to drop the shaft fully into the bushing.
My commutator was very dirty. I not only cleaned the contacts with rubbing alcohol, but I also used a pencil eraser to clean enough so that the copper was visible. Alcohol and contact cleaner alone wouldn't do that. The eraser seemed like the weakest abrasive that I could use. I didn't want to wear away any of the copper.
I noticed what appeared to be grind spots on the outer portion of the steel armatures on my motor. That suggests that they were rubbing on the magnets in the brass cover. But I saw no evidence of wear on the magnets. Also, my armatures were pretty clean. All the gunk was down with the commutator and brushes. I easily went through a dozen Q-tips to clean both.
two final tips. When I was cleaning the brushes and general area, I wound a paper towel very tight and poked it into the hole below so that alcohol and debris would not drop into the bushing and/or onto the driven nylon gear. I removed it with needle nosed pliers. I also put a small amount of light grease on the worm gear and the ends of the commutator shaft when re-assembling.
The motor is working perfectly now. Time will tell if the fix will last.
Had the window problem, tried his solution and it worked like a charm !! Thanks, saved $$$$.
Here in 2024 saying thank you so much bro this fixed my passenger window so I can enjoy my a/c again. Much love man fr fr !
Did you ever when you were a little girl, skip down the road? Well you are not a little girl now so quit skipping steps. Usually when you become so familiar at doing something, and trying to show others, you just assume people know this, or surely they know that, and just do not show them. This is a great learning video, just made to quickly, without total commitment to it. Thumbs up
You Sir are a superstar. I was one click away from ordering a new motor and regulator when I watch your video. Followed your instruction and have a perfectly working window. Many, many thanks for posting.
Barry Gear no problem glad I could help
hey guys how long did the window work for after doing this process? mine had the opposite problem opens fine and then won't close. Thanks
Hi Peter. Mine was the same, it would go down but I had to bash the door to get it to lift, and even then it was very slow. Did exactly what Blaine showed in the video and although it's only been a few weeks, it's been working perfectly since.
awesome i will give it go
I just fixed mine too!!!!
I just did this and see that my window motor bushings and magnets are worn unevenly on my 2006 350Z Roadster so I will be ordering a new motor. Thanks for this video, I am sure it saved me a ton of labor costs, assuming I get it back together.
Thanks bud for taking the time to do the vid. this Geezer just got a 2008 z with 24K miles, brought it home with top down and the passenger window won't go up. Your fix is certainly worth trying first !!
YourOldDog no problem man, keep in mind the motor will eventually need to be replaced, I bought a refurbished one on eBay for like $30 and it’s been working for a few years no issues!
Best UA-cam video ever. Out of the frying pan with the door in pieces, to being a proud 350z owner with a working window. Cheers Brother.
I was just ordering the window motor and see your video and here we go it was done now I have a window working and 30usd in my pocket!!! Thanks
It only cost $30???
"Carefully put the cover back on..."---proceeds to slam it on.
TeddyJelly
You have to slam it since its magnetized
did you not also try cleaning the inside of the case where most of the gunk builds up and "freezes" the brushes?
This helped, cleaning it worked out and got my window up... for now. Great tip, thanks.
Thanks a lot! You are a life saver! I fix it in under an hour thanks to you!!
I tried this and it only works for a couple of weeks and now it doesn't work again. Time to replace the motor I guess.
Have the same problem bro I just fixing my car watching your video thank you a lot
No problem!
window did not go back up, went to autozone motor alone was $160 tried your hack and it worked. Thanks
any idea why Nissan puts so many 10mm bolts on the door? I feel like just 6 would be perfectly safe...
To keep us from getting to the bad window motor
@@MikeAnthony2007 simple...sweet...and to the point. And honest lol. It's funny how certain aspects of our cars are over designed...yet other parts are under designed. Door has twice as many bolts holding door together as needed. Said door's interior paint scratches just by being looked at wrong. Also...Said doors exterior handle's operational components are PLASTIC.
Z/G platform has numerous examples of this.
Damn you Nissan! You design art... but in the least 'designfullest' way possible lol. Gotta love it!
I don't agree. The least amount would be 8 IMO. But I have no problem with the 12 they used. I really appreciate that they have a panel that is removable. I've worked on many U.S. made cars that have no such interior door panel and they are a major pain to deal with. Having that removable inner panel is super nice.
@@jeremygalloway1348 I agree that the interior trim "paint" (seems like a thin rubber coating) is horrible - perhaps one of the worst interior design decisions I've ever seen in a car. I think it is bad enough to justify a recall.
Mine just started cutting out you just confirmed what I was thinking about trying,
Excellent vid,,,,,,,,,,,,,THANKS
Thanks bro!! I had to take mine out and clean it like this. It worked and I owe it to you....respect man...peace!!
where do you get your q-tips from.
literally any store
+Tyler D thanks I thought those were special automotive tips
😂
Window just stopped working. Will be trying this in the morning🤙🏽
Slowed down to show whether the 'gold' nuts in the centre have to come off or not would be handy
You know the two little metal rods that connect to the door handle... I can fit them back
In this video you didn't disconnect them
I wonder if it could be the plug. Might try cleaning the contacts on the plug in case it doesn't work after you clean the motor contacts. Good video and thank you for your help! Yesterday I was able to make the motors work because the alarm system was messed up. I'm thinking it could be related to a weak battery. I will get a new battery and see if that helps.
Thank you for this simple fix! My driver door has been acting up for months. This makes me understand why smaking the door would get it going again. The commutator was more than likely arcing causing even more build up. Well tonight it quit completely so I will tackle this in the morning and thaks to you and your eye opening video Im cetain I can fix it once and for all!
Gary Stanley no problem, I ended swapping out the motor for a $30 eBay one and it’s still going strong Incase you need to replace yours
@@CARSHOPBLOOM Theres a video on here where a guy takes a piece of emory cloth and clesns the commutator. He also cleaned excess grease that was getting inside the motor and on the commutator. Amother video shows how to reset the limts for up/dn..
This will only work for few weeks at max.
The brushes are worn out and are not long enough to reach and provide current.
I'm having a problem like others here, the window doesn't always work, slamming the door makes it work. My guess something somewhere is loose, has a intermittent connection. I suspect the motor is a permanent magnet motor, what you are calling contacts are just part of the rotor and cleaning it had nothing to do with the fix. The problem with things that fix themselves eventually unfix themselves. The window problem has been a pain for a few years now, the next problem that just surfaced, the door cannot be opened from inside. If the window is opened, can open the door by reaching through the window to the outside handle, but if you can't open the window, you are screwed.
It would be nice to find the actual cause of the window problem, as I don't think anybody responding has found it.
Jim
I opened my motor casing sprayed it out with electrical cleaner (safe, dissolvable) also the motor itself cleaned the tracks a little now it's working like it's new, goes right up to window closed height once door is closed.
Fix seems to be working on my 06 Touring. Just had trouble with the extra door light clips and I forgot to bolt the motor/ regulator back on to the inside of that last door panel that covers the window motor and regulator and it was dangling and scratched my tint off when I was finally able to test the window to see if it could go back up. All in all it took me about 2 hours because I couldn't fit the housing back on over the piece that we cleaned with the q tips for a while, not sure what the problem was there. Thanks for the video! Much appreciated!
How did you end up fitying the housing?
Im stuck trying to put the motor spinning thingy back but it doesnt fit all the way inside
Hey all I am in the process of replacing, well, reinstalling my window motor because it two of the three bolts and backed out and the motor was so loose it had started skip and strip the 3/8" drive. The problem is I cannot get the motor drive to turn in order to align it to the window regulator hole. I tried turning the motor by hand and the regulator with an extension but neither budge. Should I just replace my window regulator or is there a way to align the two? Thanks in advance.
Same prodcedure for passenger side?? My window wont go up ...swith only locks and unlocks
Yo thank you bro mine wasnt
rolling up and this did the trick only had shop rags and brake cleaner still worked
Robert Tortoledo no problem man glad I could help
Would this by any chance work on a 370z as well?
thanks men i just fix my window👍🏻 your video is very helpful😎👌🏻
Ayee! those q-tips though!! But seriously these videos make me want to desperately get a Z!
I tried it and holy crap it worked! When you put the cover back on the magnets pulled it right out of my hands so hold on tight
How long did it last you till it failed again?
Got six months out of it
Tried it, it worked thank you.
does anyone know what kind of wireless drill thing he was using to undo those 10mm bolts that this looks soo stress free
It's a snapon 3/8 electric ratchet
thanks man.
Well, I tried it. Motor goes down smooth but is having trouble going up. Things I did differently is that I used a brake parts cleaner to blow out all the dust inside the motor. Perhaps I really do need a new motor. Or should I try cleaning it again?
It sounds like the motor is going out, more than likely you'll need a new window motor
i was changing a speaker..the damn foam fell out.. and i forgot to put it in after i had the door reassembled..duhhhh!!!
Yo...It worked out great..Good looking out
I got a weird problem when ever I click the button for it to go down it just buzzes...anyone know why?
thanks man just saved me some money
wount it be a good idea to clean the inside of motor casing too?
yeah shouldn't hurt to clean it, keep in mind this is not a permanent fix, this is just to get it working till you get a new motor
Thanks for the video! Just tried it and it works great!
Brent Hardinger I’m glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽
So, yeah, bud, great work sharing your tip and the video, BUT , that metal rib stuff is NOT any sort of contact point. That is the motor armature. it basically holds the copper coils which turn into electromagnets and spin the motor drive axle while the whole assembly magnetically floats between the 2 permanent magnets in the casing you took off. The root cause is either worn out brushes (99%), gunk buildup in the bearings or bad bearings.
Actually, it is gunk buildup on the brushes and commutator. My bet is that him cleaning alcohol he used to clean the armature dripped down and washed some of the gunk off of the brushes and commutator.
The situation of the motor I took apart suggests to me that they failed to put a seal below the commutator and brushes and grease and gunk eventually found it way up the shaft. An alternate explanation in my case is that the armature may have rubbed against the magnets (mine had grind marks) and the resulting iron dust dropped down and fouled the commutator and brushes. Either way, these commutator and brushes were heavily fouled. This may be compounded by worn brushes as well. Bearings are an unlikely factor.
Did mine today.. worked like a charm! Only thing is my dumbass forgot to bolt the motor housing back up before I put the plate and every damned thing else.. ugh!! Gotta take it back apart.
Thank you for this!! Tried it and it worked perfectly!!
How long did it last you till doing this method?
It lasted about three months
I rolled mine down in below freezing temps and now it won't roll back up. Serves me right for picking up a coffee 😂😂😭 Hopefully this video will help
was the window loose when you were cleaning the motor??
Rick Morty no it wasn’t
@@CARSHOPBLOOM Thanks for replying but how do you know if the motor is not working?
Rick Morty I test it, add power and see if it works.
This is totally not the way to get to the motor. If you do what he does here, when you take all of the bolts and nuts off that inner panel, the window will fall down inside the door. Once that happens, its not impossible but very hard to get the window assembly back onto that panel. You also run a very high risk of scratching your window. The proper way to do this is to take out the glass which is actually really easy to do, then just unbolt the 10mm perimeter bolts that hold the inner panel to the door and leave the nuts that hold the motor/regulator there. Then, when the panel comes off, the motor and regulator comes off with the panel!
This quickie fix didn't work, ordered motor but tried this to keep from banging on my door all day...guess a few more days of banging
make a video of your air suspension
Very helpful
would this fix the issue were the window rolls down ever time you open the door?
The window is supposed to roll down a little bit when the door opens and rolls back up when you close it
+Blaine Nojiri I'm my case my Z every time I open the door, the window rolls down but dosent roll back up when I close it.
+Poorlyartifact2 hmm interesting, well this fix is free so it wouldn't hurt to try
+Blaine Nojiri hopefully it works, thanks for the response.
+Poorlyartifact2 no problem
It did the trick although I used vodka to clean that motor elements :P now the window works, will see for how long
Oh shit you got the Snap-on 14v ratchet that thing is bad ass
Awesome. Thanks for the hack dude!
Thank you so much brother.
Did this help anyone I dont want to try unless it actually works
Thanks dude !!
Was abit sceptical at first but since it was free I decided to try it anyways, I'm probably the most useless person when it comes to this sort of thing so it took me a while but it did infact fix the window. Window goes down fine but abit slow when going up so maybe the motor is going out? Even if it's a short term fix I'm happy, was driving me insane not being able to have my drivers side window down lol. Cheers.
xMcStarley yeah this is a temporary fix, I also have a recent video of a cheap replacement motor on my page
How long did the fix last before you bought a replacement motor?
Very helpful thanks
thanks bro, im try this.
Thanks, my passenger side window will not go up. New motor $39. all day long. Hmm. Get the motor if you're keeping the car. If you are a Fixit guy like me, I'll try fixing it. Cheers.
It worked that’s a lot man
Give me a manual window anyday. All this plastic electro trash is a nightmare.
Good job
Muchas gracias hermano.
I'm gonna try
This is stupid