Salut, merci beaucoup ! C'est vrai que Miniart demande pas mal de patience, mais le résultat en vaut la peine ! Je te remercie pour tes encouragements, ça fait plaisir 😉😍👍
Hi James, Another great video! That engine looks like it should start up and run at any moment. Nice work on the turret too. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff
Hi Jeff, Thanks again! Glad you liked the video. It would be something if that engine could actually fire up, wouldn’t it? I'm happy with how the turret's coming along too. Appreciate you sticking with the series and for your kind words. Have a great day yourself! Best, James
1/72 will be my scale 100%, I consider 1/35 not mini... But it is ART. At least what I'm seeing here sure is, and 1/35 makes sense this way, the amount of detail would be lost in smaller scales, so👍. Greetings bibia PS I probably couldn't create this kind of detail in 1/24😂 so I take my hat off to you sir👏👍
Thanks for the kind words! I totally get where you're coming from with the scale choice-1/72 has its own charm, especially for larger collections or dioramas. But yeah, 1/35 definitely allows for a level of detail that would be tough to achieve in smaller scales, and I love pushing those boundaries. It's great that you see the artistic side in it too! Every scale has its beauty, but when you're looking for that fine detail, 1/35 does help bring it all out. Appreciate the feedback! 👍
For the spark plug lines try using evergreen strip 0.25 x 0.5mm. I've just completed a V54 engine for a T55 using this and it bonds very quickly with extra thin cement. Give it a minute then attach the other end and you should have a secure fitting. Much more effective than trying to get wire to adhere to styrene.
Sure! Here’s a friendly and professional reply: --- Hi @duanebarkakoti3999 Thanks so much for the suggestion! That sounds like a great approach, especially with how quickly the evergreen strip bonds using extra thin cement. I appreciate the tip on securing both ends-definitely a smooth solution compared to wrestling with wire on styrene. While I’ve had some success with the wire method, I’m always open to trying new techniques to improve the build process. I’ll keep this in mind for future projects! Thanks again, and happy modeling! Best regards, JET
nice build. Note that the commander's periscope on the right hand of the turret is not a gunsight. The gunner sits on the left of the gun and uses his direct vision gunsight scope. The US M4 Medium had a gunners periscope.
Thanks for the feedback! You’re right about the periscope not being the gunner’s sight. I actually mentioned this at around 38:39 in the video after doing some more research. For observation, hatch covers with 360-degree traversable periscopes were provided for both crew members. The commander had access to an additional periscope - the T.Rbl.F.3 - mounted on the right front of the turret roof. This periscope could extend to 400 mm and allowed for full 360-degree viewing. It was also coupled to the turret’s traverse mechanism, so the reticle moved as the turret rotated. The gunner used a T.Z.F. 4b telescopic sight, produced by Leitz in Wetzlar. This monocular scope provided 2.5x magnification with a 24-degree field of view, optimized for aiming the 5 cm gun. Appreciate your insights
Hi James, you are certainly making great progress on this build, I do have one question if I may, not being an 'motor/engine head' would this have been diesel or petrol/gasoline-powered? Looking forward to the next update soon, bedt regards from a Kiwi living in Australia, Les
Hi Les, Thanks for the kind words and for following along with the build! That’s a great question. The Tatra 103 engine, which was used in the Sdkfz.234/2 Puma, was a diesel-powered engine. It was an air-cooled V12 diesel, a robust design known for its durability in harsh conditions, which made it a great fit for armored vehicles like the Puma. I’ll be sharing more progress in the next update soon, so stay tuned! Best regards to a Kiwi across the ditch, Jet
@@JETScaleModels sure. What reference materials books did you use? (If any). Reason I ask is because AFAIK there are no visual photos of the ammo storage - and that’s why you should always use references!
@@JamesMackenzie-sx2bu Thanks for the comment! You're right, visual references for the ammo storage on this particular vehicle are pretty hard to come by. For this build, I mainly used the kit’s instruction manual . I also referred to books like *Panzer Tracts No. 13*, and *Ground Power No.235*, *Schwerer Panzerspähwagen (Sd. Kfz.234) Museum Ordnance Special Number 24. Darlignton Publications*, *Kagero Photosniper 20 SD - Kfz. 234*, *Osprey (New Vanguard 29) German Armored Cars & Reconnaissance Half-Tracks 1939-45*, *Panzerspahwagen at war Troja*, as well as Die gepanzerten Radfahrzeuge des deutschen Heeres 1905-1945 Walter Spielberger and Hilary Doyle* Since there aren’t many detailed photos, a lot of it came down to educated guesswork and references from similar vehicles. I'm just building a model as provided by the manufacturer. If you have any questions about their references I suggest contacting them. But hey, unless you have photographic evidence to the contrary, I guess it doesn’t really matter what approach I take! Thanks again for the input, though-using good references is always important. Funny you ask about this as I was going to include shots of the book I have for this subject matter.
Uncle jet you can use thin cement as a glue, to hold metal,brass parts on kits, the thin cement acts like a vacuum and holds the parts in place. Then when it dries you can use ca glue to secure the parts in place as an anchor
Hey there, thanks for the tip! Actually, I’ve been using Tamiya thin cement that way for quite a while now-it's a great trick for getting those metal and brass parts to stay put before locking them in with CA glue. Works like a charm, doesn’t it? Always good to share these techniques
@JETScaleModels yes it does! At times I don't even use ca, depends on the part, and size too. Thanks for the reply. Have you tried using stretched q tips? They're good for aircraft tubing, brake lines, and little fuel injection parts like the wire you used!
Salut belle patience avec miniart mais quelle résultat !!! Bonne continuation 😉😍👍
Salut, merci beaucoup ! C'est vrai que Miniart demande pas mal de patience, mais le résultat en vaut la peine ! Je te remercie pour tes encouragements, ça fait plaisir 😉😍👍
Hi James, Another great video! That engine looks like it should start up and run at any moment. Nice work on the turret too. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Thanks again! Glad you liked the video. It would be something if that engine could actually fire up, wouldn’t it? I'm happy with how the turret's coming along too. Appreciate you sticking with the series and for your kind words. Have a great day yourself!
Best,
James
1/72 will be my scale 100%, I consider 1/35 not mini... But it is ART.
At least what I'm seeing here sure is, and 1/35 makes sense this way, the amount of detail would be lost in smaller scales, so👍.
Greetings bibia
PS I probably couldn't create this kind of detail in 1/24😂 so I take my hat off to you sir👏👍
Thanks for the kind words! I totally get where you're coming from with the scale choice-1/72 has its own charm, especially for larger collections or dioramas. But yeah, 1/35 definitely allows for a level of detail that would be tough to achieve in smaller scales, and I love pushing those boundaries. It's great that you see the artistic side in it too! Every scale has its beauty, but when you're looking for that fine detail, 1/35 does help bring it all out. Appreciate the feedback! 👍
For the spark plug lines try using evergreen strip 0.25 x 0.5mm. I've just completed a V54 engine for a T55 using this and it bonds very quickly with extra thin cement. Give it a minute then attach the other end and you should have a secure fitting. Much more effective than trying to get wire to adhere to styrene.
Sure! Here’s a friendly and professional reply:
---
Hi
@duanebarkakoti3999
Thanks so much for the suggestion! That sounds like a great approach, especially with how quickly the evergreen strip bonds using extra thin cement. I appreciate the tip on securing both ends-definitely a smooth solution compared to wrestling with wire on styrene.
While I’ve had some success with the wire method, I’m always open to trying new techniques to improve the build process. I’ll keep this in mind for future projects!
Thanks again, and happy modeling!
Best regards,
JET
nice build. Note that the commander's periscope on the right hand of the turret is not a gunsight. The gunner sits on the left of the gun and uses his direct vision gunsight scope. The US M4 Medium had a gunners periscope.
Thanks for the feedback! You’re right about the periscope not being the gunner’s sight. I actually mentioned this at around 38:39 in the video after doing some more research. For observation, hatch covers with 360-degree traversable periscopes were provided for both crew members. The commander had access to an additional periscope - the T.Rbl.F.3 - mounted on the right front of the turret roof. This periscope could extend to 400 mm and allowed for full 360-degree viewing. It was also coupled to the turret’s traverse mechanism, so the reticle moved as the turret rotated. The gunner used a T.Z.F. 4b telescopic sight, produced by Leitz in Wetzlar. This monocular scope provided 2.5x magnification with a 24-degree field of view, optimized for aiming the 5 cm gun.
Appreciate your insights
Hi James, you are certainly making great progress on this build, I do have one question if I may, not being an 'motor/engine head' would this have been diesel or petrol/gasoline-powered? Looking forward to the next update soon, bedt regards from a Kiwi living in Australia, Les
Hi Les,
Thanks for the kind words and for following along with the build! That’s a great question. The Tatra 103 engine, which was used in the Sdkfz.234/2 Puma, was a diesel-powered engine. It was an air-cooled V12 diesel, a robust design known for its durability in harsh conditions, which made it a great fit for armored vehicles like the Puma.
I’ll be sharing more progress in the next update soon, so stay tuned!
Best regards to a Kiwi across the ditch,
Jet
What sources did you use? There is nothing visual on Ammo bins
Sorry I don't understand your question, can you expand?
@@JETScaleModels sure. What reference materials books did you use? (If any). Reason I ask is because AFAIK there are no visual photos of the ammo storage - and that’s why you should always use references!
@@JamesMackenzie-sx2bu Thanks for the comment! You're right, visual references for the ammo storage on this particular vehicle are pretty hard to come by. For this build, I mainly used the kit’s instruction manual . I also referred to books like *Panzer Tracts No. 13*, and *Ground Power No.235*, *Schwerer Panzerspähwagen (Sd. Kfz.234) Museum Ordnance Special Number 24. Darlignton Publications*, *Kagero Photosniper 20 SD - Kfz. 234*, *Osprey (New Vanguard 29) German Armored Cars & Reconnaissance Half-Tracks 1939-45*, *Panzerspahwagen at war Troja*, as well as Die gepanzerten Radfahrzeuge des deutschen Heeres 1905-1945 Walter Spielberger and Hilary Doyle*
Since there aren’t many detailed photos, a lot of it came down to educated guesswork and references from similar vehicles. I'm just building a model as provided by the manufacturer. If you have any questions about their references I suggest contacting them.
But hey, unless you have photographic evidence to the contrary, I guess it doesn’t really matter what approach I take! Thanks again for the input, though-using good references is always important.
Funny you ask about this as I was going to include shots of the book I have for this subject matter.
+-+
use staples
Uncle jet you can use thin cement as a glue, to hold metal,brass parts on kits, the thin cement acts like a vacuum and holds the parts in place. Then when it dries you can use ca glue to secure the parts in place as an anchor
Hey there, thanks for the tip! Actually, I’ve been using Tamiya thin cement that way for quite a while now-it's a great trick for getting those metal and brass parts to stay put before locking them in with CA glue. Works like a charm, doesn’t it? Always good to share these techniques
@JETScaleModels yes it does! At times I don't even use ca, depends on the part, and size too. Thanks for the reply.
Have you tried using stretched q tips? They're good for aircraft tubing, brake lines, and little fuel injection parts like the wire you used!
It's got to be the plastic q tips, not the paper crap q tips they've been trying to push, walmart sells bith paper and plastic q tips!