Very helpful. Thanks. As I searched there are some other triangle bags with zipper on the side, so that the battery can be accessed without undoing the sticky strips. Also for the connector, the four large pin connector can be detached from the plastic sliding part and directly connect to the battery, of course with checking the polarity of the connections.
Thanks for watching and commenting Sam. The other bags that I found were not big enough for the 840 Wh battery. This was the only one at that price point. Taking the battery out and putting it back in, is quite fast after a few practices but I might do the mod you suggest later on. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Mark
i want to try the same thing..was wondering if anyone put a normal battery in one of these triangle bags.I have even less clearance but i think i've found something that might work. good video..cheers.
Absolute legend, I had the same problem with the mounts on the frame ripping right out making holes, and I’ve been looking for a secure solution, my only problem is my frame is big, and so the battery will have a lot of space in the bag, can I just stuff something in there like foam to cushion the battery in place?
@@J.Swanzz Hi J, thank you for your comment. I can't see there being an issue. In a very hot climate, padding may add to the heat retention, but I'd be surprised if it got near the temperature limit for the battery. 👍🏼👍🏼
There should be 2 or 3 screws near the output wire on the tube connector support craddle thing. If you remove them, the pin connector will slide out as a smaller module.
I hope it works as well for you. I’ve clocked over 1000kms on mine on some very rough tracks and it’s still perfect. The only issue is getting the battery out for charging and remembering to turn the battery on before putting it back in. 👍👍
@@irishrover63 I have the 17.5 Ah 48v battery and I was afraid that the weight might rip the bag. But it would certainly make it a lot easier! I hate having to disconnect the battery every time it needs charging. Which bafang motor did you get? Mine is the 750watt. Not street legal, but perfect off road.
I also have the 750W motor, only 250W is street legal here. My battery is 48V/13Ah. Did you install the gear shifter sensor, it works great? Do you use throttle or just pedal assist?
@@irishrover63 it’s the same here 250 is the limit and the throttle is not allowed. I installed the gear change sensor and it is great. I ended up disconnecting the brake cut out on the rear lever as I found it near impossible to hill start when I spun out. Now I can use the rear brake and engage the motor at the same time. I had the throttle for a while but i took it off as it was drawing to much attention and I didn’t use it. The walk mode is of more use to me. My wife has a Trek with a 250 watt Bosch motor and she has no problem keeping up off road. I have limited mine to 25km per hour peddle assist so that we stay together on the road. I have a bad knee, which is why I built the eBike and I only use the motor as much as I have to. 🚵🏻♂️
Interesting solution, I have the same size battery and also had a crash at about 25mph and it didn't come of luckily, though i did drill the frame and install 2 extra rivnuts so it was secured by 4 in total, as for the charging you can get XLR male right angle to female strait adapters about a foot long so you could get this and have it plugged in with the strate female connector at the zip side
Thank you for watching and commenting, adding the extra fixing points was a great idea. I have now put an access opening to the charge socket and it’s working fine, but the L shaped lead sounds good. 🚵🏻♂️
Hi guy's, how did you mount that little motor in front of the pedals? Do you have a video on that or any info on where I can get one? Thanks for your effort. Regards Rickard from Sweden
Thank you for watching and Commenting! Hi Rickard, I didn’t do any videos on the bike build because there are lots of really great ones already on UA-cam. In fact, I used some of them to guide me through my own build. The motor is a Bafang mid drive and you can buy them in kit form from AliExpress in various power levels. You then choose a battery capacity that suits your usage and budget. In most European countries the max legal power for an eBike used in public spaces is 250watts and it is limited to assisting you only up to 25km per hour. For bikes not used in public spaces you can buy motors that are a lot more powerful and without a speed limit. Buying the motor and battery and installing them on a donor bike is a cost effective way of owning a reliable eBike with decent range. My build was on a secondhand mountain bike and including the bike, motor, battery and accessories it cost about €1150. My battery is a 48volt 17.5 amp hour unit and frankly it’s a bit bigger than I really need. A smaller battery costs less and will pull the build cost down. If you search UA-cam for “building a mid-drive ebike” you will find lots of information. If building one is not something you want to tackle you can buy a very good factory made one for about €3000. Lori rides a trek Powerfly 5 and she has no problem doing anything that I can do on mine. I hope this answers your question, but don’t hesitate to ask anything else. Mark & Lori ☘️☘️
Thanks for watching and commenting. If I was just using the bike around town or on cycle paths, the rack option would be perfect. We ride mainly on very rough tracks and river beds, it would destroy the carrier very quickly as the battery weighs over five kilograms. 👍
For handling, a rack is the worst place to put it, because it's high up. Anything heavy like this needs to go as low to the ground as possible. Think about electric cars and where their batteries go - right at the bottom literally on the floor of the car. With a mid-drive motor and where this battery is it's balanced well, with no excess weight over just the front, or just the rear.
Hi JP, thanks for watching and commenting. Where I live, the summer temperatures can hit 50C in the shade. I have used the battery bag through the summer and the battery never gets hot. It has an internal Battery management system (BMS) that constantly monitors the temp and if it ever did get too hot it would just shut down. ☘️☘️
I'd never even think to do this, what a great idea. Those bottle cage mounts were never meant to take a 5KG battery - they were meant for a bottle of liquid weighing under 1KG, so having a battery getting jolted around with 5+ times the normal weight is asking for trouble. When you fit a bottle cage, you aren't meant to tighten those bolts much, only about 2Nm or 3Nm, because they are notorious for breaking. This is why often the head on them only needs a 3mm allen key - there's a clue. I'd just get one of these triangle bags and put the battery in it regardless, from the outset, or I will now I have seen the idea to do it 😎 Also if you ever get an actual triangle battery, you know you have a bag to put it in, but I think they usually come with their own bag 😏
Thanks for the comment Brian. I originally used rivnuts , but the 48v 17.5 ah battery is just too heavy. When I used the bike off road it just ripped them out of the frame. This is the best solution for me and I still have had no problems. ☘️☘️
Very helpful. Thanks. As I searched there are some other triangle bags with zipper on the side, so that the battery can be accessed without undoing the sticky strips. Also for the connector, the four large pin connector can be detached from the plastic sliding part and directly connect to the battery, of course with checking the polarity of the connections.
Thanks for watching and commenting Sam. The other bags that I found were not big enough for the 840 Wh battery. This was the only one at that price point. Taking the battery out and putting it back in, is quite fast after a few practices but I might do the mod you suggest later on. Thanks for the tip. Regards, Mark
Very helpful thanks
Glad to be of help. 🚵🏻♂️
i want to try the same thing..was wondering if anyone put a normal battery in one of these triangle bags.I have even less clearance but i think i've found something that might work.
good video..cheers.
Absolute legend, I had the same problem with the mounts on the frame ripping right out making holes, and I’ve been looking for a secure solution, my only problem is my frame is big, and so the battery will have a lot of space in the bag, can I just stuff something in there like foam to cushion the battery in place?
@@J.Swanzz Hi J, thank you for your comment. I can't see there being an issue. In a very hot climate, padding may add to the heat retention, but I'd be surprised if it got near the temperature limit for the battery. 👍🏼👍🏼
How has it performed over the year?
There should be 2 or 3 screws near the output wire on the tube connector support craddle thing. If you remove them, the pin connector will slide out as a smaller module.
Thanks for the info! ☘️☘️
I have just ordered that very same bag in the U.K. hope it works out on my new conversion. Cheers. :)
I hope it works as well for you. I’ve clocked over 1000kms on mine on some very rough tracks and it’s still perfect. The only issue is getting the battery out for charging and remembering to turn the battery on before putting it back in. 👍👍
I am considering cutting an opening at the side of the bag to gain access to the switch and charging port with some kind of velcro seal.
@@irishrover63 I have the 17.5 Ah 48v battery and I was afraid that the weight might rip the bag. But it would certainly make it a lot easier! I hate having to disconnect the battery every time it needs charging. Which bafang motor did you get? Mine is the 750watt. Not street legal, but perfect off road.
I also have the 750W motor, only 250W is street legal here. My battery is 48V/13Ah. Did you install the gear shifter sensor, it works great? Do you use throttle or just pedal assist?
@@irishrover63 it’s the same here 250 is the limit and the throttle is not allowed. I installed the gear change sensor and it is great. I ended up disconnecting the brake cut out on the rear lever as I found it near impossible to hill start when I spun out. Now I can use the rear brake and engage the motor at the same time. I had the throttle for a while but i took it off as it was drawing to much attention and I didn’t use it. The walk mode is of more use to me. My wife has a Trek with a 250 watt Bosch motor and she has no problem keeping up off road. I have limited mine to 25km per hour peddle assist so that we stay together on the road. I have a bad knee, which is why I built the eBike and I only use the motor as much as I have to. 🚵🏻♂️
Interesting solution, I have the same size battery and also had a crash at about 25mph and it didn't come of luckily, though i did drill the frame and install 2 extra rivnuts so it was secured by 4 in total, as for the charging you can get XLR male right angle to female strait adapters about a foot long so you could get this and have it plugged in with the strate female connector at the zip side
Thank you for watching and commenting, adding the extra fixing points was a great idea. I have now put an access opening to the charge socket and it’s working fine, but the L shaped lead sounds good. 🚵🏻♂️
dont need tthe reciever bit it screw on the plug part so you can get teh reciever connector loose and press it on the battery
Is the controller in the same bag as the battery ? I was told not to do that lol
Hi, thanks for stopping by. No, it’s just the battery and the battery mounting plate. ☘️☘️
Hi guy's, how did you mount that little motor in front of the pedals? Do you have a video on that or any info on where I can get one? Thanks for your effort. Regards Rickard from Sweden
Thank you for watching and Commenting! Hi Rickard, I didn’t do any videos on the bike build because there are lots of really great ones already on UA-cam. In fact, I used some of them to guide me through my own build. The motor is a Bafang mid drive and you can buy them in kit form from AliExpress in various power levels. You then choose a battery capacity that suits your usage and budget. In most European countries the max legal power for an eBike used in public spaces is 250watts and it is limited to assisting you only up to 25km per hour. For bikes not used in public spaces you can buy motors that are a lot more powerful and without a speed limit. Buying the motor and battery and installing them on a donor bike is a cost effective way of owning a reliable eBike with decent range. My build was on a secondhand mountain bike and including the bike, motor, battery and accessories it cost about €1150. My battery is a 48volt 17.5 amp hour unit and frankly it’s a bit bigger than I really need. A smaller battery costs less and will pull the build cost down. If you search UA-cam for “building a mid-drive ebike” you will find lots of information. If building one is not something you want to tackle you can buy a very good factory made one for about €3000. Lori rides a trek Powerfly 5 and she has no problem doing anything that I can do on mine. I hope this answers your question, but don’t hesitate to ask anything else. Mark & Lori ☘️☘️
@@valleyviewretreat thank you for a detailed answer. Keep in touch.
Could the battery have not gone on the rear rack?
Thanks for watching and commenting. If I was just using the bike around town or on cycle paths, the rack option would be perfect. We ride mainly on very rough tracks and river beds, it would destroy the carrier very quickly as the battery weighs over five kilograms. 👍
For handling, a rack is the worst place to put it, because it's high up. Anything heavy like this needs to go as low to the ground as possible. Think about electric cars and where their batteries go - right at the bottom literally on the floor of the car.
With a mid-drive motor and where this battery is it's balanced well, with no excess weight over just the front, or just the rear.
the battery inside the bag, won't it get hot? and risk a fire? 🤔
Hi JP, thanks for watching and commenting.
Where I live, the summer temperatures can hit 50C in the shade. I have used the battery bag through the summer and the battery never gets hot. It has an internal Battery management system (BMS) that constantly monitors the temp and if it ever did get too hot it would just shut down. ☘️☘️
@@valleyviewretreat thank you for your reply buddy ☺️
I'd never even think to do this, what a great idea.
Those bottle cage mounts were never meant to take a 5KG battery - they were meant for a bottle of liquid weighing under 1KG, so having a battery getting jolted around with 5+ times the normal weight is asking for trouble.
When you fit a bottle cage, you aren't meant to tighten those bolts much, only about 2Nm or 3Nm, because they are notorious for breaking. This is why often the head on them only needs a 3mm allen key - there's a clue.
I'd just get one of these triangle bags and put the battery in it regardless, from the outset, or I will now I have seen the idea to do it 😎
Also if you ever get an actual triangle battery, you know you have a bag to put it in, but I think they usually come with their own bag 😏
I’m glad the video was of some help. Thanks for watching. ☘️☘️
Use rivnuts
Thanks for the comment Brian. I originally used rivnuts , but the 48v 17.5 ah battery is just too heavy. When I used the bike off road it just ripped them out of the frame. This is the best solution for me and I still have had no problems. ☘️☘️
Surely you mean a GT Avalanche.
@@adeladd7638 thanks for your comment.