I made one of those band saw boxes a few years ago. I just had to run and get it to show my wife. Her response was, yes dear I remember that, it looks beautiful. Then I showed her yours on the computer. Yes dear it's beautiful, but I have yours. Ah women ya gotta love em. I watched a video on how to make a band saw box and thought, I can do that. I am 80 years old now and most of my woodworking is sitting here at the computer watching the pros make nice things. Thanks for yet another woodworking video :-) ...Ken , Marina CA
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the show Ken. I appreciate you tuning in and taking the time to write nice comments or share your experiences with me. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Like all his videos; Clear, simple and very well explained. Ken, your channel is one of those who, as a trainee, says: "I don't regret being a subscriber" The difference between a "LOOK AT HOW I DO IT" channel and a channel where they teach you to work and learn such a beautiful job. Thanks again for "showing how to do it" Congratulations, that's a beautiful box. 😎🖖
Thank you for the kind words Victor. Producing this show is a lot of work and it takes a lot of time and some expense for me to do it but hearing positive comments from good people like yourself, make it worth all the time and expense. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
Thank you for the video, Ken. I always come here when I need information, not B.S. Always great to learn from an excellent teacher! Thanks again, from Australia!
Thanks for the kind words David. I truly appreciate it. Thank you for tuning in to the show. I hope you continue to find useful content here on the channel.
@@fredmeyer3063 There is a great debate about how far to sand a piece and for me, I usually, under normal circumstances, don't feel the need to sand higher than 220 grit. This is more than enough to get a clean look, a smooth surface and a good finish. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the show and found it useful Mickey. Thanks for tuning in and for making my day with your kind words. It's very much apaprecaited.
Adhesive felt pads on the back of the drawers will flush the drawer with the box front , also add them to the bottom of the drawers to center drawer in box opening. the band saw blade is thin but it still has a kerf that must be accounted for. very nice box.
Thanks for the kind words on the project Daniel. I appreciate it. Thanks also for chiming in with your suggestions for the kerf of the blade. Excellent suggestions and I am positive that they will come in handy for others that are reading the comments section. Awesome stuff. Thanks.
I’m a little late for the party on this one. Taking in all the bandsaw videos I can. Just bought the baby brother to your saw today 10-3061; it’s pretty small but should fill my needs. Thanks Ken!
There's no reason why you couldn't cut this bandsaw box on the 10-3061. It's a capable bandsaw and will serve you well. Thanks for tuning in Frank and good luck with your project and your new saw.
Great show Kenny, really enjoyed the creativity. As usual your step by step approach made the process clear and understandable. I'm going to have a go at this.
Good luck Mike. I hope you enjoy the process. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words.
Nice looking box Ken I'm sure whoever you give it to will appreciate it. If you have one a granddaughter would love it. Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd now what did I spot this week that is strange in the wood shop. Waaaaaay back and to the left I think I have found most if not all of a wheel chair. Hey, let us praise God that you aren't needing to use it right now. You're a good man Ken. God Bless my friend.
Thanks for the kind words Frank. I appreciate it. As for the wheelchair......well I can see why you would think that it's a wheelchair but in fact, this one is a wall mounted industrial sized fan. It would make a cool wheelchair design though. It would be like a swamp boat for the disabled.
Thank you! I have a grandson who is nuts over Harry Potter. I think this is a good idea for his very whimsical nature. Thinking about making him a finished one, and a few he can sand, glue and finish. I like the drawers cut first. If you goof a little you can correct it later. A little piece of felt glued to the back would bring the drawers out. I found this a very enjoyable video. Well Done!
Thank you very much for the kind words on the project and the show. Bandsaw boxes are a heck of a lot of fun to make and I am sure that your grandson will enjoy the process. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it. Good luck on your project and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask.
They are definitely a great lazy winter weekend project. A lot of fun and a great gift idea for your family and friends. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I usually try to go in line with the grain so that the entry cuts are easier to hide once they are glued together. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Greg and for the kind words.
Nice box and a different take on the order of cuts that I've seen on other vids. I've been researching bandsaw boxes and I like your technique. I'm planning on making at least 2-one for my step-daughter and one for my daughter-as Christmas presents. One will be a ladybug motif and the other will be a cat motif. By the way the only dust my bandsaw collects is what it produces since it gets used almost as much as my miter saw. As always a great video! Woody
For as many types and styles of band saw boxes, there are just as many methods to make one. This is just the procedure that I like, but it isn't the only way, that's for sure. Glad to hear that you bandsaw gets some much deserved use. There are far too many bandsaws that are sitting the corner of the shop gathering dust because guys don't know what it's capable of. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.
I have made these boxes several times, but have never cut the draws out first, I think this is much better and will cut them first in future, also makes it easier to clamp the box as a square.
I'm glad that you liked the show Franco. I bought my apron from Lee Valley Tools. You can find them here. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/apparel-and-safety-gear/aprons/70774-veritas-canvas-apron I hope this helps. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
The larger of the blades is a thin kerf re-saw blade which is 5/8". The smaller blade for the curved cuts was a 3/16" or a 1/4" blade I believe. I hope this helps. (not sure of the TPI but I can check when I am in the shop next if you like). Thanks for tuning in.
It is an extremely versatile tool which can open the door to many other aspects of woodworking. I'm glad to hear that you are getting some great use out of yours. Thanks for the kind words on the project and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Nice Bandsaw Box Kenny. I love em because of the different designs that you can make, and the fact as you have just shown they are pretty handy to make. Barry (ENG)
The differences in design are a huge bonus as you are only limited to your imagination when it comes to the shape of a bandsaw box. Thanks for tuning in sir. Always great to hear your comments on the show Barry.
Great looking bandsaw box! It's in fact a piece of art. However, the one thing I am not happy with is the ordinary-looking handle that you stuck to each drawer in the end. In my opinion, you must have given those handles a nice-looking fancy shape to match the box.
That's the one great thing about woodworking. It's so personal and everyone has a different idea of the way things should be and that's just fine. I thought that a simple handle would be better than a fancy one as I didn't want to over do it and have it be too much. I kind of like the simple handles but if you don't, that's fine too. Thanks for chiming in with your opinion though. I truly appreciate it.
Ken, really like the bandsaw box. One of the projects that I have wanted to get around to making. I like the inset of the drawers, I think it makes it look “more gooder”, hahaha. Sure came out nice. I’m looking forward to seeing what is in store for next week.
Thanks for tuning in to the show again this week Paul and thanks for the kind comments on the project. These are definitely fun boxes to make. You need to get out there and make a box and film it for your channel. I'd love to see your take on the box.
great video. I am curious, what size blade di you use for cutting out the bandsaw box itself, not the resaw. I have 3/8” blade to resaw, but was curious which one you used for the scroll cutting. A great video as usual.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade which had 3 TPI. After that, all of the curves were cut with a 3/16" blade with 10 TPI. I hope this helps Scott. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade which had 3 TPI. After that, all of the curves were cut with a 3/16" blade with 10 TPI. I hope this helps Scott. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for the kind words Kate. I'm glad to hear that you liked the show. Thank you for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's very much appreciated.
It is past time for me to replace that 12 inch craftsman bandsaw my father in law gave to me, so he could buy a good one, and for me to try bandsaw box building. Thanx for the video.
I'm glad that you liked the show. Good luck with your bandsaw and with your bandsaw box. I hope it's a great success. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
How do you get your drawers to end up centered in the cut out? Don't they sit low due to gravity, since the kerf is removed all the way around when you cut it out?
They do in fact sit a little low Bob but with the thinner kerf of the smaller bandsaw blade, it isn't terribly noticeable. If it is an eyesore due to a larger kerf blade, you can always glue some thinner stock to the bottom of the drawer to shim it up. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for the kind words on the show. I truly appreciate it. Good luck with your bandsaw box build. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you for tuning in.
hi Ken another first class video, as a matter if discussion all the band saw boxes I have ever made all the drawers are recessed unless one sands the front of the box this will always be the case , due to amount if material removed taking the back and front off , got to admit I have never ever done a free drawn hand box always done from a pattern, been a while since I did one so like you said dust the machine off and get stuck in on the video you did on the assembly of your band saw I picked up something I had not checked and that is checking the squareness of the back of the blade mine is out , had the saw 3+ years and no mention in the manual but the screws are there, that's a job to be done soon, too busy on he scroll saw at he moment which seems have taken over my life doing xmas stuff thanks again
The tool maintenance never stops does it John? LOL. Glad to hear that this video provided you with something useful. Sounds like once you need a break from the scroll saw, you might have to dust off the old band saw and give a free hand one a whirl. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
While you are not wrong that they would help with the alignment, the object is to glue things back together without being able to see the glue joint. The probability of being able to join a rough cut like this back together and have it be as invisible as possible, is pretty slim. While you may be able to line of the surface and get a good glue joint, the rough edges will most certainly show. Sanding it smooth to get perfectly mating pieces will provide a better, hidden joint. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
There are a couple of blades used in this project. One is a 3/16" blade and the other is a thin kerf 5/8" re-saw blade. I hope this helps. I'm not sure what you are asking for a recommendation on. Can you clarify? Thanks for tuning in to the show.
As usual a perfectly explained video. You are a great teacher. BTW Did you think about flocking the drawers as a nice finishing touch. I enjoyed your flocking video as well
I did think about flocking John and as a matter of fact, I ended up flocking the interior of each drawer with green suede text. It looks fantastic and really adds a professional look to the whole thing. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. I really appreciate it.
Good morning. I'm a new fan. This is the first vid I've watched on bandsaw boxes so forgive my ignorant questions. Why did the drawers turn out inset slightly? I would of thought they would have set proud of the front. It certainly does not detract from the beauty of the box. You inspired me and I'm going to start practicing my 4" thick scroll cuts today. Thank You
First off, welcome aboard to the channel Don. I hope you find plenty of material to enjoy. With over 500 episodes on the channel, there is plenty to choose from. I hope I can answer your question in a way that makes sense. With each cut that is made in the construction of a bandsaw box, a certain thickness of the stock is lost. That loss is equal to the kerf of the blade. (the thickness of the groove that the bandsaw blade makes). The body of the box is only cut once, to separate the back of the box. The drawers themselves are actually cut twice. Once for the front face of the drawers and once for the back face of the drawer. Because of that, we are losing the thickness of the kerf twice on the drawers, making them less deep than the body of the box, which only lost one thickness of the kerf for the box's back. I hope this makes sense. If not, I'd be more than happy to try and explain it another way. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to ask your question. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the reply. It makes perfect sense. After rewatching the video I realized I had the order of what you did confused in my demented mind. Was thinking you cut the drawer out before you cut the box's back off which makes no sense at all. That's what happens when get old, brain fog. It takes me 3 days to figure out which used to be instant. Thanks again for being patient with a 78 year old. I glued up a blank from scrap yesterday and heading out to make saw dust today.
@@bulldogdona3367 I'd love to see what you come up with. Feel free to send me some pictures at the show's email or facebook page. (the info is on the channel's home page under the "about" tab). As for being patient, you never have to thank me for that. I started this channel to help people with their woodworking and that is its main goal. There's a reason that after 8 years, there is only 41, 000 subscribers. It's because I focus my attention on producing the show and on helping people instead of promoting the channel. I could probably do a lot better with the channel if I put more effort into it but I think it would take away from me helping those who really want the help. Who knows, one day, the channel might gain extreme popularity and I might even be able to do it full time instead of just on the weekends, but for now, it's there as a learning aid and I'm more than happy to do it.
Thanks for the kind words on the show. For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade which had 3 TPI. After that, all of the curved were cut with a 3/16" blade with 10 TPI. I hope this helps Victor. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The bandsaw that I have is a Rikon 10-326 Fred. I pretty much keep the re-saw blade on it all the time and only change it when I need it for another project. As far as cutting this bandsaw box, I changed the blade throughout the entire process to suit my needs. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
So I have a similar deal at my house where my machines live on my covered patio with no walls. How well are your machines doing with all that ambient moisture? How do you cover them?
I don't cover my tools at all Brian. Covering them gives a chance for the moisture to be trapped under the cover and condensate which causes another large issue. I coat off of my cast iron surfaces with Autosol metal polish which seems to protect the tools quite well. There isn't much humidity in the winter, but during the summer, it's horrible so I have a dehumidifier on a timer the runs during the night to remove the humidity as much as I can. It seems to work for me for the past 10 years and I will continue to do that as long as it works. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I believe that for this box David, I used a 5/8" re-saw blade to remove the back of the box but the curved cuts were made with a 3/16" blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in
Very good tutorial. I like how you explained what steps you had to be more precise with. Like the thickness of the fronts and backs isn't that important but getting your table square is. I just picked up a new Rikon bandsaw - looks the same as the one you have. Curious what blade you use on it? Width, tooth count and brand? I found a local guy I bought one from but the weld wasn't perflectly flat on the back. My biggest problem is making nice clean steady cuts. Not sure if it's the blade or my lack of experience. I don't have a nice clean gap all the way around my drawers. I'm sure some of that will come with practice. Thanks again. That had to take quite a bit of time filming and editing that whole process.
Thanks for the kind words on the show and the project Steve. I post two shows a week and you are definitely right that it takes a ton of time to produce, film, edit and post each show but it is well worth it as I really enjoy the whole process. Bandsaw blades are a funny thing. They sometimes give a nice straight cut and other times, the cut can waver from side to side causing a cut that is less than acceptable. A lot of the problems derive from the setup and calibration of the machine and without proper setup, the blade has problems staying straight. Guide bearings and the thrust bearings must be set properly as well as the tension. There is an amount of human error that can contribute to poor. cuts and it all derives from stock feed speed and how fast or slow you rotate your stock while cutting. As for the blades...for the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. A little scraping can also help with the saw kerf marks. I purchased all my blades for this saw from Lee Valley tools and while they may not be the cheapest option for blades, I have never had a problem with any one of them and they cut beautifully. Here's the link. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=75277&cat=1,41036,75262 I hope this has helped you a little Steve. If your bandsaw is the 10-326 Rikon 14" band saw, I have a setup video on the show as well that might help you out if setup is your issues. ua-cam.com/video/noA-G1CSBc8/v-deo.html Thanks for tuning in and if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Mark. I appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Hola Ken. Soy nuevo en esto; de hecho, acabo de comprar la Craftsman de 10" y me pregunto si puedo usar la cinta de 1/4" y 6 tpi para todo el proceso. Agradezco de antemano tu respuesta. Saludos desde Reynosa México MAESTRO!
@@JuanGarcia-1125 The 1/4" should work just fine but you want to be careful that you are not cutting too tight of a radius with the 1/4" band. Try and keep you radii a little larger for this blade. I hope this helps. Good luck on your project.
I'm assuming that you mean what blade is best. You want to check your blade for the size of radius it can cut. Depending on the size of your bandsaw box, you might have some tight radii that will have to be cut so you need to gauge your blade accordingly. Generally, a 3/16" blade will work just fine, but you will have to take it slow so that you aren't putting too much strain on the saw. I'm pretty sure that I mentioned the sizes of the blades in the video. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the kind words Belinda. For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade. After that, all of the curved were cut with a 3/16" blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Ken from Australia can you let me know what blades you use on the bandsaw, and were you purchase yours from it’s hard to get good blades here, nice work Trevor
Hi there Trev. Thanks for the kind word on the show and for posting your question. For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. I purchased both of my blades at Lee Valley tools although there are many manufacturers of quality blades on the net. I would research the blades for your saw and see what is available to you. Here the link for Lee Valley's blades. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=75277&cat=1,41036,75262 Thank you for tuning in to the show. I hope I have answered your question.
Henry Bros. in Sydney Combined Saw and Knife Brisbane McDiven Melbourne I've used blades from the top two and they are great quality and made to order just tell them length, width and TPI
You want me to prove that the drawers don't fall out on a pre-recorded show? How would I go about doing that? I can tell you for certain that the drawers will indeed fall out if you tilt the band saw box all the way forward. You can always glue a small stop block to the top of each opening after the drawer is installed to prevent the drawers from falling out if you like. Thanks for tuning in.
That's a great idea Rafael and I will do my best to produce some shows making scroll saw boxes. I do have a series on box making on the channel and if type "box" in the search of my channel's main page, you will find several shows there about it. Thanks for tuning in and for the show suggestion. It's a great one.
Yes sir it is. 3/16" and 10tpi. It does a great job of cutting the curved lines with little to no deflection of the blade. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks. I am still experimenting with my bandsaw and blades. I left the 3/16 4 tpi blade on it for now. I do have an 1/8" 14tpi that I haven't tried yet. tuning the saw after I put a new blade on takes me forever so I am hesitant to replace it once it runs fine.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Tracking. After I change a blade, it takes me a while to set both wheels up to the point that the blade stays on them. I know you're not supposed to mess with the bottom wheel but I had an issue that required me to adjust it.
@@IlanDavid Tracking can be an issue with some saws and I can give you a suggestion to try and see if it works. Once you have your blade tracking correctly, tighten down the lower wheels bolts and leave that one alone. Most of your tracking issues can be resolved with only adjusting the upper wheel. One of the most common and most simple causes of poor tracking is a top wheel that is sticking. What happens is that the blade has tension on it and as you adjust, the wheel doesn't move. Sometimes it is caused by surfaces not running parallel or sometimes it can just be some dirt in amongst the adjustments. When you don't see any change in the blade's tracking, we normally adjust a little more. We don't see any results so we adjust a little more. There isn't any results because the upper wheel mechanisms might be jammed. At some point in time, the jam releases and the adjustments kick in but by this time, we have adjusted way too much and the tracking is way off, sometimes causing the blade to leave the tyre. Here's my suggestion...leave the lower wheel alone and make a slight adjustment to the upper wheel. Before turning the saw on or rotating the wheel to check for tracking, give a light tap around the wheel with a small rubber mallet. You don't need to go crazy hitting it, just a few light taps. Then check the blade for tracking. Continue this process until the blade tracks properly. If it is a sticky upper wheel, a few taps is all it takes to release it but you will most likely have to do it after each adjustment. Give that a try and see how it goes. Let me know if that works for you.
I do not sell the drawing as there is no drawing. I just drew out the shapes free-hand. That is the great part about making a bandsaw box. You don't need a pattern. Just draw out the shape you would like to make and then start cutting. I hope this helps. Good luck on your project and thank you for tuning in to the show.
People learn in all different forms Alf. Some are strictly a visual form where they only want to see pictures or video demonstrations. Others learn by verbal explanation without the visual aspect and yet there are those that learn using both visual and verbal in unison. I try to gear my show to everyone's learning technique and although I have had many people call me out and say that I talk too much, I've had way more people thank me for explaining it in a way that they could relate to and understand. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I'm glad that you found the project interesting and I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
Thank you for the kind words on the project. I appreciate that. As for me talking a lot...I can't deny that I like to talk but there are some that like that sort of video. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I appreciate your support.
And that's just fine Joe. If you aren't fond of the methods that I used or demonstrated here on the show, there are plenty of other methods to make a bandsaw box. Feel free to choose the method that works best for you. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I hope you were able to take something positive away from this episode.
Great video. Loved the freehand idea. No prep, just fun on the bandsaw. Thank you for sharing
Glad that you liked it Bernard. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I made one of those band saw boxes a few years ago. I just had to run and get it to show my wife. Her response was, yes dear I remember that, it looks beautiful. Then I showed her yours on the computer. Yes dear it's beautiful, but I have yours. Ah women ya gotta love em. I watched a video on how to make a band saw box and thought, I can do that. I am 80 years old now and most of my woodworking is sitting here at the computer watching the pros make nice things. Thanks for yet another woodworking video :-) ...Ken , Marina CA
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the show Ken. I appreciate you tuning in and taking the time to write nice comments or share your experiences with me. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Like all his videos; Clear, simple and very well explained.
Ken, your channel is one of those who, as a trainee, says: "I don't regret being a subscriber"
The difference between a "LOOK AT HOW I DO IT" channel and a channel where they teach you to work and learn such a beautiful job.
Thanks again for "showing how to do it" Congratulations, that's a beautiful box. 😎🖖
Thank you for the kind words Victor. Producing this show is a lot of work and it takes a lot of time and some expense for me to do it but hearing positive comments from good people like yourself, make it worth all the time and expense. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
Thank you for the video, Ken. I always come here when I need information, not B.S. Always great to learn from an excellent teacher! Thanks again, from Australia!
Thanks for the kind words David. I truly appreciate it. Thank you for tuning in to the show. I hope you continue to find useful content here on the channel.
This has to be the best tutorial online for making bandsaw boxes. Thanks Kenny!!
You're very welcome Fred. I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Would you mind sharing how fine a grit you need to sand the bandsaw box to? Thanks!
@@fredmeyer3063 There is a great debate about how far to sand a piece and for me, I usually, under normal circumstances, don't feel the need to sand higher than 220 grit. This is more than enough to get a clean look, a smooth surface and a good finish. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You are a great tutor. Clear descriptions and excellent demonstration of techniques. 👏👍
Glad that you liked the show. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
The best training video of all the ones I’ve watched!
I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the show and found it useful Mickey. Thanks for tuning in and for making my day with your kind words. It's very much apaprecaited.
Adhesive felt pads on the back of the drawers will flush the drawer with the box front , also add them to the bottom of the drawers to center drawer in box opening. the band saw blade is thin but it still has a kerf that must be accounted for. very nice box.
Thanks for the kind words on the project Daniel. I appreciate it. Thanks also for chiming in with your suggestions for the kerf of the blade. Excellent suggestions and I am positive that they will come in handy for others that are reading the comments section. Awesome stuff. Thanks.
I’m a little late for the party on this one. Taking in all the bandsaw videos I can. Just bought the baby brother to your saw today 10-3061; it’s pretty small but should fill my needs. Thanks Ken!
There's no reason why you couldn't cut this bandsaw box on the 10-3061. It's a capable bandsaw and will serve you well. Thanks for tuning in Frank and good luck with your project and your new saw.
That saw should work, just remeber to let the saw do the cutting and not “pushing” it too hard through the cut. Definitely play on some scrap wood.
Thanks for the advice!
That's a cute project Ken, makes me want a band saw. Thanks for sharing!!
Well, what are you waiting for Dale. Get out there and get a bandsaw. LOL. Thanks for tuning in sir.
I just bought one!
Great show Kenny, really enjoyed the creativity. As usual your step by step approach made the process clear and understandable. I'm going to have a go at this.
Good luck Mike. I hope you enjoy the process. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words.
Very nice work
Thank you for the kind words Patrick. I appreciate you tuning in to the show.
Nice looking box Ken I'm sure whoever you give it to will appreciate it. If you have one a granddaughter would love it. Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd now what did I spot this week that is strange in the wood shop. Waaaaaay back and to the left I think I have found most if not all of a wheel chair. Hey, let us praise God that you aren't needing to use it right now. You're a good man Ken.
God Bless my friend.
Thanks for the kind words Frank. I appreciate it. As for the wheelchair......well I can see why you would think that it's a wheelchair but in fact, this one is a wall mounted industrial sized fan. It would make a cool wheelchair design though. It would be like a swamp boat for the disabled.
Great video 😀👌
Glad that you liked it Pete. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Nice project Ken. I love making these, and there is never a shortage of recipients for them. LOL
That's the truth Brian. Thanks for tuning in sir. Great to hear from you.
Great video you have provided good details and instruction. Thanks
Glad that you liked it David. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you! I have a grandson who is nuts over Harry Potter. I think this is a good idea for his very whimsical nature. Thinking about making him a finished one, and a few he can sand, glue and finish. I like the drawers cut first. If you goof a little you can correct it later. A little piece of felt glued to the back would bring the drawers out. I found this a very enjoyable video. Well Done!
Thank you very much for the kind words on the project and the show. Bandsaw boxes are a heck of a lot of fun to make and I am sure that your grandson will enjoy the process. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave a comment. I appreciate it. Good luck on your project and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask.
than you for take your time and well explain how to make a bandsaw box, this is one of the well explain tutorial off all I love it
You are welcome Rolando. Thank you for the kind words and for tuning in to the show. I am glad that you liked it.
Great looking band saw box Kenny. Have not made one since last winter. Well winter is coming so looks like I will be making another one real soon
They are definitely a great lazy winter weekend project. A lot of fun and a great gift idea for your family and friends. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
kennyearrings1 by the way. I viewed your Griswald vaca last week. You and your wife take the same style of vaca that the wife and I do
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in.
Loved watching this Ken. Would have been good to see your chosen method for glueing the entry cuts👍
I usually try to go in line with the grain so that the entry cuts are easier to hide once they are glued together. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Greg and for the kind words.
Nice box very informative video thanks
You're very welcome Brian. I'm glad that you liked the project. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words. I appreciate it.
Nice box and a different take on the order of cuts that I've seen on other vids. I've been researching bandsaw boxes and I like your technique. I'm planning on making at least 2-one for my step-daughter and one for my daughter-as Christmas presents. One will be a ladybug motif and the other will be a cat motif.
By the way the only dust my bandsaw collects is what it produces since it gets used almost as much as my miter saw.
As always a great video!
Woody
For as many types and styles of band saw boxes, there are just as many methods to make one. This is just the procedure that I like, but it isn't the only way, that's for sure. Glad to hear that you bandsaw gets some much deserved use. There are far too many bandsaws that are sitting the corner of the shop gathering dust because guys don't know what it's capable of. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.
I have made these boxes several times, but have never cut the draws out first, I think this is much better and will cut them first in future, also makes it easier to clamp the box as a square.
I hope that my methods works as well for you as it does for me Jason. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck on your project.
Fantastic very well.. i noticed your apron,where you bought it? By form Monfalcone nord est of italy
I'm glad that you liked the show Franco. I bought my apron from Lee Valley Tools. You can find them here. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/apparel-and-safety-gear/aprons/70774-veritas-canvas-apron
I hope this helps. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
I like what you are doing here ,what size blade are you using on your saw ? thanks
The larger of the blades is a thin kerf re-saw blade which is 5/8". The smaller blade for the curved cuts was a 3/16" or a 1/4" blade I believe. I hope this helps. (not sure of the TPI but I can check when I am in the shop next if you like). Thanks for tuning in.
Nice box! I bought my band saw just to saw band saw boxes and it turned out to be one of my fav tools in my shop for many uses!
It is an extremely versatile tool which can open the door to many other aspects of woodworking. I'm glad to hear that you are getting some great use out of yours. Thanks for the kind words on the project and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Nice Bandsaw Box Kenny. I love em because of the different designs that you can make, and the fact as you have just shown they are pretty handy to make.
Barry (ENG)
The differences in design are a huge bonus as you are only limited to your imagination when it comes to the shape of a bandsaw box. Thanks for tuning in sir. Always great to hear your comments on the show Barry.
Great looking bandsaw box! It's in fact a piece of art.
However, the one thing I am not happy with is the ordinary-looking handle that you stuck to each drawer in the end. In my opinion, you must have given those handles a nice-looking fancy shape to match the box.
That's the one great thing about woodworking. It's so personal and everyone has a different idea of the way things should be and that's just fine. I thought that a simple handle would be better than a fancy one as I didn't want to over do it and have it be too much. I kind of like the simple handles but if you don't, that's fine too. Thanks for chiming in with your opinion though. I truly appreciate it.
Great job my friend I like a lot 👍🏼
Thanks Tomas. I appreciate it. Thanks for tuning in again this week.
Wonderful job!!!
Thanks Francisco. I truly appreciate it.
Ken, really like the bandsaw box. One of the projects that I have wanted to get around to making. I like the inset of the drawers, I think it makes it look “more gooder”, hahaha. Sure came out nice. I’m looking forward to seeing what is in store for next week.
Thanks for tuning in to the show again this week Paul and thanks for the kind comments on the project. These are definitely fun boxes to make. You need to get out there and make a box and film it for your channel. I'd love to see your take on the box.
great video. I am curious, what size blade di you use for cutting out the bandsaw box itself, not the resaw. I have 3/8” blade to resaw, but was curious which one you used for the scroll cutting. A great video as usual.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade which had 3 TPI. After that, all of the curves were cut with a 3/16" blade with 10 TPI. I hope this helps Scott. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade which had 3 TPI. After that, all of the curves were cut with a 3/16" blade with 10 TPI. I hope this helps Scott. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Nice instructional video. 👏🏽👍🏻
Thank you for the kind words Kate. I'm glad to hear that you liked the show. Thank you for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's very much appreciated.
It is past time for me to replace that 12 inch craftsman bandsaw my father in law gave to me, so he could buy a good one, and for me to try bandsaw box building. Thanx for the video.
I'm glad that you liked the show. Good luck with your bandsaw and with your bandsaw box. I hope it's a great success. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
real in depth. thanks man
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
How do you get your drawers to end up centered in the cut out? Don't they sit low due to gravity, since the kerf is removed all the way around when you cut it out?
They do in fact sit a little low Bob but with the thinner kerf of the smaller bandsaw blade, it isn't terribly noticeable. If it is an eyesore due to a larger kerf blade, you can always glue some thinner stock to the bottom of the drawer to shim it up. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video....thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you for the kind words on the show. I truly appreciate it. Good luck with your bandsaw box build. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you for tuning in.
hi Ken another first class video, as a matter if discussion all the band saw boxes I have ever made all the drawers are recessed unless one sands the front of the box this will always be the case , due to amount if material removed taking the back and front off , got to admit I have never ever done a free drawn hand box always done from a pattern, been a while since I did one so like you said dust the machine off and get stuck in on the video you did on the assembly of your band saw I picked up something I had not checked and that is checking the squareness of the back of the blade mine is out , had the saw 3+ years and no mention in the manual but the screws are there, that's a job to be done soon, too busy on he scroll saw at he moment which seems have taken over my life doing xmas stuff thanks again
The tool maintenance never stops does it John? LOL. Glad to hear that this video provided you with something useful. Sounds like once you need a break from the scroll saw, you might have to dust off the old band saw and give a free hand one a whirl. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Lovely. Thanks for the video. What size blade do you use for the curves ? Is it 1/4” 10 TPI ? Cheers.
Just seen a previous reply. 1/4” 6 TPI. Cheers.
Sorry I wasn't faster on the reply Mike but thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck on your box project.
Glad you were able to get the answer Mike. Thanks for tuning in.
11:42 wouldn't those bandsaw marks help align the two pieces back together?
While you are not wrong that they would help with the alignment, the object is to glue things back together without being able to see the glue joint. The probability of being able to join a rough cut like this back together and have it be as invisible as possible, is pretty slim. While you may be able to line of the surface and get a good glue joint, the rough edges will most certainly show. Sanding it smooth to get perfectly mating pieces will provide a better, hidden joint. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video
Thanks for the kind words Robert. I appreciate you tuning in to the show.
What band saw blade are you using ? I would rather not buy a planar for making a band saw box . Do you have any reommendation ? Thanks
There are a couple of blades used in this project. One is a 3/16" blade and the other is a thin kerf 5/8" re-saw blade. I hope this helps. I'm not sure what you are asking for a recommendation on. Can you clarify? Thanks for tuning in to the show.
As usual a perfectly explained video. You are a great teacher.
BTW Did you think about flocking the drawers as a nice finishing touch. I enjoyed your flocking video as well
I did think about flocking John and as a matter of fact, I ended up flocking the interior of each drawer with green suede text. It looks fantastic and really adds a professional look to the whole thing. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. I really appreciate it.
Good morning. I'm a new fan. This is the first vid I've watched on bandsaw boxes so forgive my ignorant questions. Why did the drawers turn out inset slightly? I would of thought they would have set proud of the front. It certainly does not detract from the beauty of the box. You inspired me and I'm going to start practicing my 4" thick scroll cuts today. Thank You
First off, welcome aboard to the channel Don. I hope you find plenty of material to enjoy. With over 500 episodes on the channel, there is plenty to choose from. I hope I can answer your question in a way that makes sense. With each cut that is made in the construction of a bandsaw box, a certain thickness of the stock is lost. That loss is equal to the kerf of the blade. (the thickness of the groove that the bandsaw blade makes). The body of the box is only cut once, to separate the back of the box. The drawers themselves are actually cut twice. Once for the front face of the drawers and once for the back face of the drawer. Because of that, we are losing the thickness of the kerf twice on the drawers, making them less deep than the body of the box, which only lost one thickness of the kerf for the box's back. I hope this makes sense. If not, I'd be more than happy to try and explain it another way. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to ask your question. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the reply. It makes perfect sense. After rewatching the video I realized I had the order of what you did confused in my demented mind. Was thinking you cut the drawer out before you cut the box's back off which makes no sense at all. That's what happens when get old, brain fog. It takes me 3 days to figure out which used to be instant. Thanks again for being patient with a 78 year old. I glued up a blank from scrap yesterday and heading out to make saw dust today.
@@bulldogdona3367 I'd love to see what you come up with. Feel free to send me some pictures at the show's email or facebook page. (the info is on the channel's home page under the "about" tab). As for being patient, you never have to thank me for that. I started this channel to help people with their woodworking and that is its main goal. There's a reason that after 8 years, there is only 41, 000 subscribers. It's because I focus my attention on producing the show and on helping people instead of promoting the channel. I could probably do a lot better with the channel if I put more effort into it but I think it would take away from me helping those who really want the help. Who knows, one day, the channel might gain extreme popularity and I might even be able to do it full time instead of just on the weekends, but for now, it's there as a learning aid and I'm more than happy to do it.
Very good! What blade ??
Thanks for the kind words on the show. For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Ken, I have one question.
What measures of saw blades do you recommend for this type of work??? Thank you.
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade which had 3 TPI. After that, all of the curved were cut with a 3/16" blade with 10 TPI. I hope this helps Victor. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks Ken. Best Regards.
It looks like you have a Jet bandsaw in the background. Do you keep your resaw blade on one bandsaw, and keep the 1/4" blade on another bandsaw?
The bandsaw that I have is a Rikon 10-326 Fred. I pretty much keep the re-saw blade on it all the time and only change it when I need it for another project. As far as cutting this bandsaw box, I changed the blade throughout the entire process to suit my needs. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I should've watched this video. Now I want a larger band saw, that can take a re-saw blade. Nice video.
Christmas is coming Doug. Maybe Santa will be nice to you. LOL. Thanks for tuning in sir. It's appreciated.
So I have a similar deal at my house where my machines live on my covered patio with no walls. How well are your machines doing with all that ambient moisture? How do you cover them?
I don't cover my tools at all Brian. Covering them gives a chance for the moisture to be trapped under the cover and condensate which causes another large issue. I coat off of my cast iron surfaces with Autosol metal polish which seems to protect the tools quite well. There isn't much humidity in the winter, but during the summer, it's horrible so I have a dehumidifier on a timer the runs during the night to remove the humidity as much as I can. It seems to work for me for the past 10 years and I will continue to do that as long as it works. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny, Just want to say i really enjoy your videos.
Thanks very much for the kind words Nick. I truly appreciate it. Thanks for tuning in. Great to have you aboard as a viewer.
Nice, what size width blade did you use to cut out the box?
I believe that for this box David, I used a 5/8" re-saw blade to remove the back of the box but the curved cuts were made with a 3/16" blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in
Very good tutorial. I like how you explained what steps you had to be more precise with. Like the thickness of the fronts and backs isn't that important but getting your table square is. I just picked up a new Rikon bandsaw - looks the same as the one you have. Curious what blade you use on it? Width, tooth count and brand? I found a local guy I bought one from but the weld wasn't perflectly flat on the back. My biggest problem is making nice clean steady cuts. Not sure if it's the blade or my lack of experience. I don't have a nice clean gap all the way around my drawers. I'm sure some of that will come with practice. Thanks again. That had to take quite a bit of time filming and editing that whole process.
Thanks for the kind words on the show and the project Steve. I post two shows a week and you are definitely right that it takes a ton of time to produce, film, edit and post each show but it is well worth it as I really enjoy the whole process. Bandsaw blades are a funny thing. They sometimes give a nice straight cut and other times, the cut can waver from side to side causing a cut that is less than acceptable. A lot of the problems derive from the setup and calibration of the machine and without proper setup, the blade has problems staying straight. Guide bearings and the thrust bearings must be set properly as well as the tension. There is an amount of human error that can contribute to poor. cuts and it all derives from stock feed speed and how fast or slow you rotate your stock while cutting. As for the blades...for the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. A little scraping can also help with the saw kerf marks. I purchased all my blades for this saw from Lee Valley tools and while they may not be the cheapest option for blades, I have never had a problem with any one of them and they cut beautifully. Here's the link. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=75277&cat=1,41036,75262
I hope this has helped you a little Steve. If your bandsaw is the 10-326 Rikon 14" band saw, I have a setup video on the show as well that might help you out if setup is your issues. ua-cam.com/video/noA-G1CSBc8/v-deo.html
Thanks for tuning in and if you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks for the reply and the links. I realized that i had already watched your rikon set up which was also nicely done.
@@bwhite661 Thanks for the compliment. It's appreciated.
Parabéns ótimo trabalho ficou lindo demais 👏👏👏👏
I am glad that you like it. Thank you for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave the kind words.
Thank you, great video. What size blade did you use on the bandsaw?
For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Mark. I appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Hola Ken.
Soy nuevo en esto; de hecho, acabo de comprar la Craftsman de 10" y me pregunto si puedo usar la cinta de 1/4" y 6 tpi para todo el proceso.
Agradezco de antemano tu respuesta.
Saludos desde Reynosa México MAESTRO!
@@JuanGarcia-1125 The 1/4" should work just fine but you want to be careful that you are not cutting too tight of a radius with the 1/4" band. Try and keep you radii a little larger for this blade. I hope this helps. Good luck on your project.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Gracias por tu respuesta amigo.
@@JuanGarcia-1125 You are very welcome.
What is the best belt to make bandsaw boxes? I'm a newbie
I'm assuming that you mean what blade is best. You want to check your blade for the size of radius it can cut. Depending on the size of your bandsaw box, you might have some tight radii that will have to be cut so you need to gauge your blade accordingly. Generally, a 3/16" blade will work just fine, but you will have to take it slow so that you aren't putting too much strain on the saw. I'm pretty sure that I mentioned the sizes of the blades in the video. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
What size & Tpi blades do you use for your resawing and shaping
For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it.
Looks great. What blade width and tpi do you use?
Thanks for the kind words Belinda. For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What size blades did you have in band saw
The first blade I used was a 5/8" re-saw blade. After that, all of the curved were cut with a 3/16" blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Ken from Australia can you let me know what blades you use on the bandsaw, and were you purchase yours from it’s hard to get good blades here, nice work Trevor
Hi there Trev. Thanks for the kind word on the show and for posting your question. For the re-saw parts of the process I used a 5/8" X 3tpi re-saw blade. For the tighter cuts of the box, I used a 1/4"X6tpi blade. They both did a great job and left a fairly clean edge that required minimum sanding to remove the blade marks. I purchased both of my blades at Lee Valley tools although there are many manufacturers of quality blades on the net. I would research the blades for your saw and see what is available to you. Here the link for Lee Valley's blades. www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=75277&cat=1,41036,75262
Thank you for tuning in to the show. I hope I have answered your question.
Thanks Ken great info very much appreciated,
You're very welcome @@trevglider3490 . Thank you for tuning in.
Henry Bros. in Sydney
Combined Saw and Knife Brisbane
McDiven Melbourne
I've used blades from the top two and they are great quality and made to order just tell them length, width and TPI
prove the boxes are secured from falling out.
You want me to prove that the drawers don't fall out on a pre-recorded show? How would I go about doing that? I can tell you for certain that the drawers will indeed fall out if you tilt the band saw box all the way forward. You can always glue a small stop block to the top of each opening after the drawer is installed to prevent the drawers from falling out if you like. Thanks for tuning in.
Muito bom video
parabéns pelo Belo trabalho.
Thank you for the kind words and for tuning in to the show. I appreciate it very much.
Scroll saw boxes also, please.
That's a great idea Rafael and I will do my best to produce some shows making scroll saw boxes. I do have a series on box making on the channel and if type "box" in the search of my channel's main page, you will find several shows there about it. Thanks for tuning in and for the show suggestion. It's a great one.
Yes Kenny, Scroll Saw Boxes are terrific projects.
Is that a 3/16" blade you were using for the curved cuts, Kenny?
Yes sir it is. 3/16" and 10tpi. It does a great job of cutting the curved lines with little to no deflection of the blade. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks. I am still experimenting with my bandsaw and blades. I left the 3/16 4 tpi blade on it for now. I do have an 1/8" 14tpi that I haven't tried yet. tuning the saw after I put a new blade on takes me forever so I am hesitant to replace it once it runs fine.
What is the issue that you are having with tuning the saw after installing a new blade?@@IlanDavid
@@acutabove_woodworkings Tracking. After I change a blade, it takes me a while to set both wheels up to the point that the blade stays on them. I know you're not supposed to mess with the bottom wheel but I had an issue that required me to adjust it.
@@IlanDavid Tracking can be an issue with some saws and I can give you a suggestion to try and see if it works. Once you have your blade tracking correctly, tighten down the lower wheels bolts and leave that one alone. Most of your tracking issues can be resolved with only adjusting the upper wheel. One of the most common and most simple causes of poor tracking is a top wheel that is sticking. What happens is that the blade has tension on it and as you adjust, the wheel doesn't move. Sometimes it is caused by surfaces not running parallel or sometimes it can just be some dirt in amongst the adjustments. When you don't see any change in the blade's tracking, we normally adjust a little more. We don't see any results so we adjust a little more. There isn't any results because the upper wheel mechanisms might be jammed. At some point in time, the jam releases and the adjustments kick in but by this time, we have adjusted way too much and the tracking is way off, sometimes causing the blade to leave the tyre. Here's my suggestion...leave the lower wheel alone and make a slight adjustment to the upper wheel. Before turning the saw on or rotating the wheel to check for tracking, give a light tap around the wheel with a small rubber mallet. You don't need to go crazy hitting it, just a few light taps. Then check the blade for tracking. Continue this process until the blade tracks properly. If it is a sticky upper wheel, a few taps is all it takes to release it but you will most likely have to do it after each adjustment. Give that a try and see how it goes. Let me know if that works for you.
👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you liked it Dimas. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Eu queria fazer eu mesmo uma vocês vende o desenho
I do not sell the drawing as there is no drawing. I just drew out the shapes free-hand. That is the great part about making a bandsaw box. You don't need a pattern. Just draw out the shape you would like to make and then start cutting. I hope this helps. Good luck on your project and thank you for tuning in to the show.
Too much waffling, although a interesting project
People learn in all different forms Alf. Some are strictly a visual form where they only want to see pictures or video demonstrations. Others learn by verbal explanation without the visual aspect and yet there are those that learn using both visual and verbal in unison. I try to gear my show to everyone's learning technique and although I have had many people call me out and say that I talk too much, I've had way more people thank me for explaining it in a way that they could relate to and understand. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I'm glad that you found the project interesting and I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Totally understand, but for me , i think the focus should be on the project not the presenter
@@alfkey4155 All opinions are welcome on the show and yours is not exception. Thanks for chiming in with your comments. I do appreciate it.
suas peças são muito boas. mas voce fala muito no video, fica cansativo de assistir
Thank you for the kind words on the project. I appreciate that. As for me talking a lot...I can't deny that I like to talk but there are some that like that sort of video. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I appreciate your support.
I kinda feel like you took the long and hard way with it all
And that's just fine Joe. If you aren't fond of the methods that I used or demonstrated here on the show, there are plenty of other methods to make a bandsaw box. Feel free to choose the method that works best for you. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I hope you were able to take something positive away from this episode.