The biggest MISTAKE I made ordering my pop-up camper - would love to hear your suggestions!
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- Опубліковано 9 січ 2024
- In this bonus extra mid-week video, I talk about the mistake I made when I ordered my Topo Toppers Mesa wedge pop-up truck camper on my Nissan Frontier. Nothing wrong with the camper itself...I absolutely LOVE this thing. There's just one additional upgrade I wish I had opted to have Topo install when I configured my camper.
Now I need to figure out a DIY approach. I'll walk you through everything I've thought of (and why most ideas won't work). I would love to hear what you think or what possible approaches I'm not thinking of.
UPDATE: This video shares the solution I ended up with:
• New aftermarket produc...
Topo Toppers Mesa wedge camper:
www.topotoppers.com/
Alldogs Offroad/Koni 2" lift kit:
www.alldogsoffroad.com/alldog...
Alldogs Offroad wheels for Frontier/Xterra:
www.alldogsoffroad.com/alldog...
ASFIR 4x4 skid plates:
www.asfir.com/skid-plate-set-...
Recovery gear from Yankum Ropes:
yankum.com/?afmc=softroadingt...
(use code SOFTROADINGTHEWEST for a discount off your purchase)
Reign Outdoor 270° Awning:
reignoutdoor.com/store-2/p/st...
Tail Gater Tire Table:
amzn.to/48oVIcm
Cast iron propane burner:
amzn.to/3F0qyez
MAXTRAX MKII recovery boards:
adventure-imports.com/product...
Wavian NATO Jerry Can:
amzn.to/3P4Nqhe
Viair 300p compressor:
amzn.to/43b18Fw
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Thanks for watching! This was back in January and I have since come up with a solution that has worked out well for me:
ua-cam.com/video/7wdpHosf09g/v-deo.html
Mount them over the dents on the passenger side and then paint the MaxTrax to look like a giant band-aid.
LOL...that's pretty good actually. 🤣
Haha 😂!
That’s awesome
Long fold down bar/table/molly panel with mounts clearing the passenger side camp window? Mount boards anywhere underneath and it all folds up to cover window glass from trail/elements in transport? Large table work surface when camped
Maybe consider a zip up vinyl bag to put the Max-Trax in and store them in the back. At the end of your trip you could simply hose the bag out.
This is what we do with ours. MaxTrax sells heavy duty bags for their Trax and this is how we store ours which we store in our back seat area of our truck. Works great!
We were very leery about putting holes into the top (or anywhere for that matter) of our camper for rails and such because we’ve read statements from people about how over time they leak and before you know it you’ve got mold growing inside. No thank you!
I would suggest you contact Topo Toppers and ask them about retro fitting roof rack/rails. For all the excellent advertising you give them with your channel, they should be able to cut you a deal.
Oh I'm sure they would do it for me, but they are in Ventura CA and I am in Eugene OR. This would require multiple days and $600+ of gasoline, so if I do end up putting rails on the roof, I will take my chances with doing it myself. 🙂 At this point however I've acquired enough workable alternative ideas that I'm 98% sure I won't be mounting anything to the roof. 😄
Bite the bullet and install full length racks. You know you may want to install a solar panel up there at some point might as well have rails that fit them.
Build a false-floor inside the camper.
Either slide them in from outside, or drop them in with a hinged/lifting door-floor.
This is a great idea!
Donald, why not chop down the factory roof rack into a 1/3 rack, connect them together so they’re a single unit and reinstall in the original mounting points?
Hi Donald so just a thought it looks like the Max track would fit in a snowboard bag so at least it would keep the mud and slime contained and most bags are pretty durable.. again just a thought .. good luck on this endeavor 😎
Mount 2 rails horizontally on the kitchen/driver side door with the proper spacing and wherever the mounting bolt placement is appropriate, then attach the Maxtrax mounting bolts to the rails.
Check out how alucab does the stow away table. You can put them between the roof and the bottom of your camper over hang
Unfortunately, that space is too tight, I can't even slide a single Maxtrax into that space, let alone any hardware to hold it. It's a verrrry low-profile camper. 😏
@@softroadingthewest Can you make a bracket under the spare tire tray, and mount it on the bottom of the truck? I think the spare tire is higher then the diff, so you should have clearance.
What about just keeping them in the bed of the truck while you drive (bungee cord so they dont fly around) and put them in the back seat when you camp?
Wow, I am ASTONISHED by the volume of comments and SO MANY great ideas I didn't think of. I was trying to reply to every comment but I'm unable to keep up today, I have some deadlined work to finish and getting ready to head out of town. But here are a few clarifications regarding some of the most frequent suggestions:
MOUNT THEM ON THE HOOD
I completely forgot to cover this in the video, but that actually was one of my first ideas months and months ago. It IS do-able, but when I mocked it up with my Maxtrax on there, I reeeeally did not like how much of my view they blocked. Fine on the highway, but on tricky trails, it really seems like a hindrance to picking lines, so I ruled it out very early on. I may need to revisit this however, it's a solid idea and may ultimately prove preferable to any other solution.
SEA SUCKER SUCTION CUP MOUNTS
I also forgot to mention these in the video...this is definitely a good idea, so much so that I actually came *very very* close to doing this a few months ago. I literally had their traction board kit in my shopping cart, credit card in hand and ready to proceed with checkout, but changed my mind at the last minute. I have a buddy who uses them to carry his traction boards on the hood of his Xterra and he's happy with it, they hold just fine. As noted above, I don't want mine on my hood, but I was thinking about using the Sea Sucker to mount to the camper roof without drilling holes. I could still do that, but they really stick up kind of high, and are vulnerable to theft. Ultimately I felt like if I am going to carry them on the camper roof, I'd rather take my chances with drilling through the roof for a lower-profile and theft-proof installation. Sea Sucker seems like a really good product though.
HAVE TOPO TOPPERS RETROFIT THEIR RAILS
This isn't impossible, but they are in Ventura CA and I am in Eugene OR. This would require multiple days and $600+ of gasoline, so if I do end up putting rails on the roof, I will take my chances with doing it myself. 🙂
MOUNT THEM BETWEEN THE TRUCK ROOF AND THE CABOVER (similar to Alu-Cab's slide-out table storage)
There is not room. The camper cabover is so close to the roof of the truck that I cannot even slide a single Maxtrax into that space, with no hardware at all. This would be an elegant solution, but it is not possible.
ANY SOLUTION THAT INVOLVES THE KITCHEN CARGO DOOR IN ANY WAY
Offsetting the pins, center-mounting, anything at all here will not work. The Maxtrax block access to the door latches & locks, and if I move them upwards to clear the latches, they will run into the awning and prevent the door from opening properly. I wanted so bad to make this work, but it is physically impossible.
ANY SOLUTION THAT INVOLVES THE REAR HATCH/WINDOW
I do not want to block this window. One of the things I love about my build is that I can sit inside on a blustery day and enjoy a panoramic(ish) view. I will drill holes in the roof before giving up that rear window. 😄
Thanks again for watching and commenting. I'll keep trying to catch up with replies but it's probably gonna take me some days at this point. 🙂
Also, for the thousandth time: Here where I grew up, *everyone* pronounces roof the way I pronounce roof. When _you_ say "rooooof" it sounds wrong to me. 😆 Local dialects exist all over this vast country, with significant differences in pronunciation of countless words, and sometimes even completely different words used for the same thing. I don't understand why people fixate on "roof" so much. 😄
@softroadingthewest Same, but I grew up in Roseburg. And we always said "crick" rarely "creek" (unless reading a sign out loud). :) My rule of thumb on that is go with what the locals use, no matter how much it twists my tongue up. 🔀
@@garyjennyfrost9485yep Roseburg here as well, we say crick.
I wouldn’t touch the roof of the camper. I’d mount them on dented side of bed or on back rack by Jerry cans
See my comment about mounting to the front of the camper roof using the sides of the hinge bracket above the pivot to anchor a small rack. You could use a sea sucker at the back of the rack but unless you reverse at massive speed I don’t think it would be necessary. Just have threaded feet with rubber stops resting on the camper roof
Cut and adjust the factory Nissan roof rack so that only the front bolts are used and build a platform off of that.
Ideal.
If it was me, I'd fabricate a rack to go on the (front) roof of your cab (using preexisting holes) using the pins you have to secure the boards. The rack would be sloped so that it would act as a fairing that would direct wind just over the top of you pop-up camper. What you gain is access (standing in the open doors of the truck and maybe a bit of improved fuel efficiency. What you lose is at least some use of your sunroof.
In the short term I would probably just bag them and put them in the backseat. Long term I would get topo topper to add the roof rails
This
@@michaelpellegrino3220 WINNER!
Yep, I have not ruled this out. They're awkwardly in the way of other things I also transport there on big trips, but this is a simple solution for sure.
Take it back to topo and them retrofit the rails.
I would, except they're in Ventura CA and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
Passenger rear fender. As you said, it already has some "trail experience". Drill 4 holes. Insert some RivNuts and then build a simple rack/rail system to bolt into the RivNuts (probably need to use some spacers on the upper bolts to account for the curve of the fender so that the upper and lower rack/rails are even). Then mount the MaxTrax mounts onto the new rack
ail system.
I think the simplest option would be to weld a mounting attachment to the passenger side of your gas canister rack. If it were me, I'd have the tracks/rails installed on the roof. This would allow you to not only carry the traction boards but also allow for future items, such as a kayak.
Hi Donald, great little video as always. If it were me I would look at th original roof bars to see if they could be cut down and modified into a mini version. The front mounting points on the roof could be utilised with the original frame and then fabricate a rear support on the roof in front of the camper. Maybe even shortening the fram and re-using the rear mounts. This should give enough height to continue using the Sunroof.
I'm looking forward to seeing your solution.
Yes, this isn't a bad idea at all and I'm definitely considering something along these lines. Thanks!
Use Sea sucker suction cups for the roof . No need drilling holes they are great and can be used other places if you change your mind .
I would look at your rear, swing out and move the gas cans forward and mount them behind them vertical And your friend Jason has a brand new plasma table so I would say he could make you a couple of mounts really quick on that table looking forward to what you come up with but if you end up putting a mountain rack on top of your tent, check out a product called bugle tape they used it on Rv s it’s a good way to keep sealant on the roof😊
My humble suggestion:
2 L shaped brackets, between bed and topper, on passenger side.
Build stand off panel that secures to them, and fender of truck.
Mount tracks to that panel.
Ensure tracks come up to JUST UNDER the still functional window.
Still have access to tire.
I hope this helps.
Chop the rails off the old roof rack, so you can still use the mounting sections. Then just build your mounting system off of them.
Beat me to it 😅
Yes, and add a wind deflector in front of the tracks. The wind would flow over the camper too. Slim Potatohead used an old snowboard as a deflector
Back canopy door, it'll block your window, but if you design it with a hinge point, you should be able to lift it up, (and secure it) and see out the window when you're out camping. Or down, because you do have the awning...
If somebody else has already mentioned this, I apologize. I've only read thru a few of the comments. Your awning has a couple of nice stand-off's that it attaches to. What about either getting a couple more of those mounts or fabricating similar and then add a mounting plate to them, and the boards to it? That would give you the clearance above your window and to the topper releases.
Edit: the reason I suggested the awning standoffs are twofold: 1. they are already built, 2: they are more stable in the window while driving 50-80+ MPH down the highway/freeway, etc. - especially seeing how they are going to catch the wind die to their profile.
Beat me to it ... I was thinking the same thing. Install a set of awning mount brackets to the opposite side above the window.
I was also going to suggest that !
I hadn't thought of that, but several people have made this suggestion. Definitely going to take a closer look at this to see if it could work. Thanks!
Glad we all could help. It's like you said, sometimes you need other perspectives and ideas. We will be curious to see what you end up doing. @@softroadingthewest
Check out those magnetic MaxTrax mounts sold by Owl Vans and put them on the roof of the cab.
Just cut new holes in the maxtrax where you need them.
I understand your frustration. I engineer specialized products for off-roaders and van lifers. I see several options to think about. 1. Take the roof mount that you removed and cut them down to the width of your max tracks . You should be fine with just the 4 front bolts holding it down the rails. Then you can go back to mounting them over your sun roof. 2. Mount flat under your cargo box. They may stick out a few inches if your bumper is in the way. If you want to up this mod. Custom build a slide so the you can use them as a sliding table that extends beyond the storage box. 3rd, 4th & 5th option are for your left, right and rear windows. You need to modify your hardware my moving your mount door mounts in for the left side and hinge the hardware so the you can swing them up to get to the hatch levers and then use a rubber T- handle like the ones you see Jeeps for holding their hoods down, to secure the bottom of the max trays to your door. (Think TV wall mount how it attaches to the walls 16" studs but extends out wider to connect to the tv. ) You may even be able to modify a tv wall mount for that purpose. You can do a variations off this over your right and rear window. Except add a hydraulic lift to hold them up over the window (like the ones on your rear window now). So these would cover the windows when you're driving but flip up protecting your windows from sun and rain when parked. They would look like little awnings over your window allowing you to enjoy the view but hinge down protecting your windows while driving. Good Luck.
I also have a topo topper, but we travel with 2 ppl and 2 dogs. In order to save space in the truck bed we got a martin off road camper rack that is only the front part of the roof, and got the rack installed by topo toppers. Although we haven't used the topper rack yet I did get it as a just in case option. Sorry to hear you're regretting getting that installed.
Use your old factory roof rack. Just cut the original rack where it would come into contact with your tent. Make a bracket that screws in under your roof tent base. It’ll look custom
Or use original roof rails as a template to make your own rails that’ll fit under the tight space and utilize original rail mounting locations
Something along these lines is definitely in the running! Thanks!
Why can’t Topo Toppers install the racks now?
Have you contacted Topo to see if they can do a rail install? Or just send you the components to DIY? Seems like a fairly simple upgrade if you have the necessary rails/fasteners. I put racks on my GFC and have been so happy that I did. Have used them now on half a dozen trips carrying surfboards/Kayaks. Roof racks will mean you need some type of collapsible ladder.
another set of awning mounts for passenger side, will need material to span the two mounts as the awning points are wider than the boards. Mount them just above the window as if it was an awning.
Use the hood? Kinda like how you see the Jeep guys putting a hi-lift on their hoods.
I completely forgot to cover this in the video, but that actually was one of my first ideas months and months ago. It IS do-able, and I have a buddy who has done just that, but when I mocked it up with my Maxtrax on there, I reeeeally did not like how much of my view they blocked. Fine on the highway, but on tricky trails, it really seems like a hindrance to picking lines, so I ruled it out very early on. Thanks for brainstorming, much appreciated!
I would go with something on the roof. Don't create an eyesore along the sides or back of your good looking vehicle. I'd mount them on the roof towards the front of the truck so not to create too much weight on the end of the camper that lifts up.
Good Video... How about installing another set of "Awning Brackets" on the "Port" side of the camper and installing them to allow the proper spacing for the MaxxTraxx bolts. They can be above your window and have a clean looking appearance. ... Just a thought.
I was thinking the same thing.
Heavy duty garbage bags for keeping any mud or dirt out of the back seat area. Not a bad idea to mount over your sunroof.
Get another set of Awning Risers and mount above the passenger side window on the camper
Maybe cut the factory roof rails shorter to fit in front of the camper. This will still allow the sunroof to open (maybe not fully) and give you a place to mount the traction boards. For a bit of support (if required) to the back end of the shorter cut side pieces, you could attach a "bump stop joust" (Jeep part) that will prevent any bounce between the cab roof and the rails. Mounting the traction boards on the top of a camper, becomes a big chore to use them, so you'll probably use less or try to find other solutions than the task of getting them down. Getting up there in bad weather, removing ice/snow, etc, needing to make steps or a ladder, just all a PIA!! Good luck, you'll figure it out! Cheers, from Ontario, Canada
YES! SeaSucker Traction Board Mount passenger side bed or roof. No Drilling! Plus a cable lock.
We have GFC on a Ford Ranger. We had been waiting for the Expedition Essentials Extream MaxTrax Mounts. Got tired of waiting. In the meantime, we had been running 4 in our Thule Canyon Basket with the extension on the roof. Yes, getting to them when you need them not the first thing you're going to grab.
Inspired by the DirtBox wedge camper. I reversed engineered the side mouth with cargo / L tracks, with the boomerang mount and MaxTrax pins. To the drivers side wing. Since our 270 FSR awning is passenger side.
My vote would be to keep them OFF THE ROOF!
I was ready to suggest the truck roof, but no way. I wish we had a sunroof! We run Thule Roof Rack with a custom aluminum air spoiler and 2 Milwaukee PackOuts . Sadly, Ford doesn't have any factory roof mounts.
Our rig set up can be seen on any of out social platforms.
Mark (& Teresa)
Hampstead Maryland
• Purpose Built Adventure Rig © •
Ford Ranger FX4 - GFC Camper V2 #1919
• Kia Soulverlander •
What about making a slide out system that attaches to the underside of the topper, in between the truck cab. It can be something as simple as C channel. Front runner makes a version for their tables that bolt to the under side of their roof racks. There’s also countless diy videos making something similar. The only downside I see is added wind noise but they would be out of the way and you wouldn’t have to climb to the top of the truck to access them.
A lot of great comments on here Donald, If it were me I would do a new clean sheet design on the rear rack you built. I'm sure there are some changes you would to incorporate after some use. And just make sure on the new design you make it where you can get to your max tracks easily.
I like the idea of putting them on the passenger side of the truck as you said. Easier to get to when you are already in a possible stressful situation. Great videos thanks. :)
Use a piece of flat bar attached to the top of the bed rail & it’ll give you a mounting point to fabricate a attachment that will hang out from the side of the truck bed.
Rather than drilling holes into the side of the bed.
It could even be hinged to allow for a table top, or access to your fuel door if mounted on the driver side.
You could also use a piece of 1/4”x4”x3” angle on the top of the bed rail & bolt the pieces together rather than welding. The flange of the angle would provide place for the vertical mounting brackets of the traction boards.
Sell the Max Tracks. There are other tread-like tracks that fold onto themselves. They work great and pack down.
Just build a mount that is held on with VHB tape and then mount the boards to the mount. VHB tape is strong enough to hold big solar panels onto a roof so it should hold those boards easily. This would be a super cheap and quick install. If you are unfamiliar with VHB tape do some research.... it will solve all your problems with this issue and I know it sounds crazy having a mount held on with just tape but it is more than strong enough and no holes in the roof.
Good to know, I was not familiar with VHB!
@@softroadingthewest i have read through everyones suggestions and i still say VHB tape. you owe it to yourself to watch some videos about it and go buy some 3m VHB tape and do your own tests. its just as strong as you drilling holes and bolting it on.
Solution?: Owl Vans in AZ has magnetic max track mounts that are strong enough to hold the max tracks to the side of the Sprinter van. Maybe they will work on your cargo door, but at least they would work on the roof without making a hole (I think). I just retired over here in Bend and am on Jason's van camping site, and now I'm researching to make my 2010 Sprinter into an overlander. . . if I'm not too scared to go without four wheel drive! Hope that works for you, Sandra
The camper is entirely aluminum, magnets won't stick. 🙂 Good luck with your build!
QM PARTS recovery board mounting brkts by jerry cans. Good idea and not on roof . Simple 2 pieces of metal and using your pins.
What a huge friendly cat!
He is very affectionate, sometimes to a fault. 😄
Hey Donald, first off I want to say I really enjoy your videos. I live here in western Oregon too and know the challenges of the weather. I’m just an old retired county boy and camp in my simple A.R.E topper but still at nearly 77 years old get out as much as possible. Now, for what it’s worth, remember how brushy and narrow our logging spurs are. I really don’t think anything mounted to the sides of your rig is a good idea. They’re gonna snag everything 😖. I can’t get a good look your cargo box on your swing out but possibly you could mount your traction boards to the box lid? If not, I think I would go with the roof rails and mount the boards as close to the back so you could climb the cargo carrier to reach them. Anyway, just a thought. Keep truckin’ buddy 🤗
The box lid won't work, but another commenter has got me thinking about simply replacing the box with a different size/configuration that would accommodate the maxtrax and still leave the box usable, so this idea is not ruled out. You're definitely right about side-mounted gear here in the PNW.
I think your original idea on the side would be the most convienent for use, but clearly not feasible now. My vote is to put them on the roof with a proper mounting system. Just bite the bullet.
I like the mounting by the gas cans. Very easy access in sticky situations. You can get solar panels that just stick on your roof. Our tab 400 has a stick on panel that preforms beautiful with our Battleborn batteries.
Retired roofer here, less holes/ penetrations on roof the better.
Good luck. Easy access in tough situations should be key.
Have you contacted the manufacturer to see if they could do it after the fact?
I'm sure they could, but they're in Ventura and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
Like the unistrut idea, just 1 horizontaly, between the bottom of the window and the top of the truckbed. Mount the traxx to a hinge that woulf fold down at 90° (instead of hinging up). The traxx folded down would also double as a handy little table that's not too wide to stand at while using your side window.
Something like this is definitely in the running...thanks!
Owl vans makes magnetic traction board mounts
I like the idea of roof rails since that gives you room for more options in the future. Other than having to climb up to get them, they would be secure and less likely to be stolen up there. The other thought I have is some sort of bracket that extends out slightly on the window side of your topper. That way you wouldn't have to worry about the curves. My camper top has an aluminum framework on the roof and a half ladder going down one side. The first think I did was to install solar panels but there's still room to add my tracs if necessary. Given that I have a very tall camper top, I've never gone that route though. For now, I just keep them in the back of the truck. Good luck!
We really like the GoTreads over the MaxTracs. We originally got them for our Prius but they work super well. Could get creative with mounting them since they collapse or possibly fit them in your rear box.
I think your idea of mounting next to the jerry cans is the best option for making the brackets, no potential leaking issues, and very easy to grab with out climbing on to the roof.
I have just added the roof L-tracks to my order because of your video.
Nice. Better to have them and not need them than the opposite! :-)
perfect timing. i'm literally about to finalize my OVRLND Campers build sheet and submit deposit to start the manufacturing and I was thinking the same as you... i wouldnt want anything on top and would like to save the $300. I think i'll just have them install the 80/20 roof rails
Go back to manufacturer of topper and have them retrofit.
I could, except they're in Ventura CA and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
Use Sea Sucker suction cups to attach to rear camper window.
This isn't a bad idea, but I do not want to block this window. One of the things I love about my build is that I can sit inside on a blustery day and enjoy a panoramic(ish) view. 🙂
@@softroadingthewestI agree but, you can just take them off when at camp or make strut hinge that flips them up like small window awning.
AluCab has a table that slides in under the front of the topper, maybe something similar could be don there? or front bumper, spare tire carrier? Or trade in for the mini max trax and the small ones should fit where you originally wanted to put them on the utility door. good luck!
First, thanks for your videos and as a result I purchased a Topo Topper about 10 months ago. I also thought about the add-ons. I did get the L tracks on top and yes I use them for my recovery gear. So I'm glad I decided for that option. Have you considering asking Topo Toppers to install them for you, I'm sure they would give you a good deal. Happy trails.
use the front mounting points of old roof rack. Cut the old rack and weld in a cross member or two...... or just cut off the bars and weld something low profile to the feet so you can still use the old mounting points
My .02 is to mount them on the passenger side of the bed splitting the mounts between the topper below the window and on the bed above the fender flare bump out. As a fellow Oregonian I know exactly how you feel about drilling holes in the top. I would still do that project but wait until summer to mount the track. That way it’s warm and dry to get optimal curing of butyl tape and silicone around all of your holes.
1) can you create new mount holes in the maxxtrax. 2) find large spacers (might have to double stack) to fit on the mount to allow you space for your latches
I agree with you on the need for traction boards to be easily accessible. Having them on the roof of the camper is going to be a pain for access. I don't like things hanging off the side of the vehicle either. I just feel it is a place for something to catch and tear things off going through brush.
I think you are on track with making them work on the back carrier. Might think of doing L brackets that come up behind your tool box high enough to clear the lid when open. Then mount them flat, horizontally, or make the brackets just straight up behind the tool box and mount them on end horizontally. You could mount them just high enough so you can get the lid of the tool box open all the way, or mount them a bit lower and deal with the lid of the tool box not opening quite all the way with the traction boards in place. Not sure how much room you got behind the tool box, but you could offset the brackets closer to the tailgate to allow some extra room for this.
Also, you could look at seeing if you could attach some unistrut to the bottom side of the cab overhang and extended it far enough forward to put the traction boards in front of the cab over, above the sunroof. I think it would look pretty good and would still allow easy access to the boards and use of the sun roof. Attaching the unistrut to the floor of the cap over you wouldn't have to worry about water getting in.
Hope that makes sense. You know how to contact me if you need some clearing up on any of this. George.
I agree with your assessment of the camper roof...I've now about 99% ruled that out. I'm now leaning towards something over the roof of the truck like you mentioned. Thanks George!
Put a track/rail under the Tern window and then another above the passenger side fender flare and span the seam between the bed and topper. May need to make your hardware mounting solution have a little give in the event there is movement between the bed and topper, but that joint should already be pretty rigid. Love your vids!!
Contact the manufacturer and ask for their installation plan ... maybe they will actually do the work but at a minimum get their info so it is a appropriate install.
Turn the Maxtrax into a fairing across the roof in front of the camper using the factory roof rail holes, somehow. Make it even cooler by adding off-road lights in front of the Maxtrax. 👍🤠👍 I know you can do it!
I did the opposite. I did not want to pay for the tern windows or cargo door, so I opted for sliding windows and the l-tracks on the roof. My install date is coming up at the end of this month. I can’t wait!
Well, Matt over at Matts off Road Recovery says if you get recovered by Max Trax...you weren't really stuck. 😁
As a few have suggested, for your needs and preferences above the tern window would work well.
I think a rack above the cab using existing holes could work fairly easily. I live in Tualatin Oregon if ya want some help. Could fab it up in a day. 👍🏻 @softroadingthewest
I'm definitely going to give this approach more thought. It would be a good solution.
@@softroadingthewest I can help, just let me know.
You might consider mounting them to the top of the engine hood, like some people mount hi lift jacks.
First thought: adding a roof rack does give multiple options, as you say.
Second thought: modify the rear rack. Move the jerry cans backward a few inches to make a pocket (of sorts) for the maxtrax. It would involve some fancy welding, but seems like a simple and easily accessible option. And the cool factor would be great!
Mount them slightly above the passenger rear fender. Make a rack that mounts to the topper below the window and hangs down over the fender, but doesn’t mount to it. This would eliminate the concern of the wheel arch contour and I imagine the topper sides are thicker metal than the truck fender. Then it wouldn’t cover the window and or affect the truck.
I read your update about not blocking the back window while sitting inside. Maybe mount them over the window with the flip down table hinges, but make them pivot upwards. You could still see out when they're up, and they'd lay relatively flat to the topper while driving. Other than that I would go on the right side, above the side window, below the top profile of the topper. It would need brackets made, and would be an inconvenience while latching/unlatching the popup. We can't pretend that a rear swingout isn't an inconvenience every time you need in the back lol.
Take peyote and go on vision quest
Another vote for the hood. Mount one flat on each side wouldn't block the view. Be easy to remove if needed.
Perfect timing on this video. I’m figuring out where to mount traction boards as well. I’m leaning towards the roof of the RTT, but I’m also thinking about mounting solar panels up there since it’s such a large flat surface. What about under? My Passport has a lot of space under the unibody, and there’s a height of 4” or more before lining up with the drive shaft.
Edit: when I got stuck last year in an endless clay pit, my traction boards would have been totally cut off from access, so…. I really am leaning more towards drilling into the roof.
Exactly, when I have needed mine, I was buried to the frame in wet heavy snow...they'd have been completely inaccessible. I look forward to seeing your solution.
Not sure if it was mentioned. I'd consider a bracket similar to the awning brackets on the other side of the camper above the side window.
That's exactly what I came here to say. Right on the passenger side.
I hadn't thought of that, but several people have made this suggestion. Definitely going to take a closer look at this to see if it could work. Thanks!
I added Thule Roof Rails to my Leer canopy. Mine was paint matched and hard to drill the first hole, but it was super easy and functional. Never regretted it, nor did it leak. I like a solid strip of rubber with screw holes cut out and sealant on the bolts. Option 2, lose the MaxTracks. Matt says..."If you needed them to get unstuck, you really weren't stuck." ....;)
Donald look into the Sea Suckers I use them on my Are canopy they work very well . and you can remove them when your not on a journey no drill needed .
I forgot to mention these in the video...this is definitely a good idea, so much so that I actually came *very very* close to doing this a few months ago. I literally had their traction board kit in my shopping cart, credit card in hand and ready to proceed with checkout, but changed my mind at the last minute. I have a buddy who uses them to carry his traction boards on the hood of his Xterra and he's happy with it, they hold just fine. As noted above, I don't want mine on my hood, but I was thinking about using the Sea Sucker to mount to the camper roof without drilling holes. I could still do that, but they really stick up kind of high, and are vulnerable to theft. Ultimately I felt like if I am going to carry them on the camper roof, I'd rather take my chances with drilling through the roof for a lower-profile and theft-proof installation. Sea Sucker seems like a really good product though.
I’ve mounted racks on Jeep hard tops with Yakima through the roof kits for their Landing pads. Never had a leak. The seals are good and they hauled two canoes for years. Worth a look.
Good to know. Perhaps I'm being unnecessarily worried about drilling/sealing.
I have seen a few trucks that run half a roof rack. The rear mounts are essentially just legs under the camper overhang and the front half can be whatever you want or have room for.
Ideas:
1) Do not drill holes on the top but on the sides to add brackets that hold standard crossbars. Mount Maxxtrax to crossbars.
2) Simple bag and leave them in the camper
3) Suction cups but inside the camper area anywhere they could fit
4) Use half-size Maxxtrax on the cargo door as your original idea
5) Make a tray between the roof and bottom of the camper, similar fashion to FrontRunner table tray.
Go with the "table option" but put it on the passenger side of the camper not the fender. It will protect the window when you are wheeling, drop it down when you are inside so you can see out.
I think you are on the right track with the ASPW table idea. Mount tracks on the passenger side of your bed. Add spacers under the tracks to allow the table/tracks to clear the fender.
There are many glues out there that should easily be able to glue some rails on top without any holes. I have used 3M 081115 and a cheap gun from amazon for all sorts of things. Heck all the skins on my DIY camp trailer are held on with nothing more than the adhesive mentioned above. Google the directions for the advesive which generally just means some cleaning, some scuffing and another cleaning. Get some L track and glue it on the roof where ever you would like it. If done correctly it will never come off. Generally with L track it opens up a bunch of options for mounting just about anything.
Im of the opinion that the roof is the best option. Id go ahead and put rails up there so you have options later if you find you need more room for storage
I like the idea of mounting them on the right side fender. My thought is to use something like a "T Slot" product. That is the brand I use at my work, however there are other manufacturers as well. It is something like what you already have mounted to your dash for your Ram mounts. You could put one long piece above and two shorter pieces below on either side of your wheel fender flare. T Slot is available in inch and metric. Inch sizes are 1x1, 1.5x1.5, 2x2 double track, 1.5x3 triple track, etc.. Though nice to work with, it is quite expensive. The roof option is kind of a hassle if you use the traction boards frequently.
I always liked your low profile unistrut rig.
If it were me, I would definitely put them on your passenger side as you were describing in your video. I’m trying to come up with a similar system on mine and that is the route. I believe I’m gonna go.
What about building a "box" under the tool box that goes across the area where your propane tank sits. Then you could slide the tracks in, they would be out of the way but easily accessible when you need them. It would raise the level of the top of the box that you use for prep and all kinds of stuff (based on what I have seen in your videos), but it seems it would be a better compromise than roof mounting them. There are ways to keep the roof from leaking but once they are up there and you need them, are you going to use a ladder or stool to reach them? Seems awkward in a recovery situation. Lots of ideas on here! Can't wait to see what your solution is!
is there a way to mount another set of awning mounts to the non-driver side of the camper, above the window? Maybe with some retrofitting you could have the maxtrax mounted horizontally above the window.
I'd drill some holes in your max trax - more towards the center. Then you will be able to avoid the hardware on that side cargo access door.
The other problem with the cargo door is: no matter how I mount the boards (and there are center-mount solutions available) they either block access to the door latches, or if moved up enough to clear the latches, they run into the awning and prevent the cargo door from fully opening. The cargo door is unfortunately a complete no-go, which is a real bummer, because it's otherwise the perfect location.
Maxtrax on rear hatch (blocks rear view but I only use side mirrors) or maxtrax minis on topper side door.
Mount them below the passenger window of the camper. Custom rack bolted to the bed rail.... just need enough clearance to open the window. Looks like a good spot to me.... could be almost flush with the outside of the bed rail and still not interfere with the window