3D Printing with PETG - How does the printing temperature affect strength? || Setup & Tips

I show you how I set up my DAS FILAMENT PETG filament and tested its printing performance at different hotend temperatures on my Original Prusa i3 MK2. I analyze with my DIY tensile testing machine, how the material strength changes depending on the printing temperature.
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[@alexanderthomas2660]

The problem with PETG is that it has both a low specific heat and a relatively high thermal conductivity. This means it cools down very quickly and printing it in a cold room and/or with too much cooling, will definitely reduce layer adhesion. This may explain your varying results over time. An easy way to see when you're cooling PETG too much is to see when the surface starts to lose its shine. If it does, it's cooled too quickly and layer adhesion will become bad.

[@murrayedington]

Although I'm not a plastics expert, I assume that PETG is very similar to PET, in which case you should bear in mind that when you stretch PET, its yield strength increases. This is the reason that PET bottles (soft drinks etc) are so strong. They are made as small injection moulded bottles, then blown out to full size and become considerably stronger in the process. Another example is the plastic film used to hold 4 packs or 6 packs of beer together. If you stretch a length of it, the material necks down but does not fail there. As the cross sectional area is less than the unstretched material but it supports the same tension, you can see that the yield stress is greater. I think you are seeing this increase in yield strength when you test your samples. It's one of the potentially interesting benefits of PETG over PLA etc.

[@WaqManVR]

Man what's with all this math

[@vampiregoat69]

So you're saying you have to be a mathematician to understand WTF you are doing?

[@JandCanO]

You're so meticulous about your testing, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos!

[@Bluidvl78]

I know I'm resurrecting a very old video, but I just wanted to thank you for the effort you put into your work. For those of us walking down this path, it's wonderful to follow in your footsteps and make our own discoveries along the way. Again, thank you for all that you do.

[@TicklishWombat]

seems similar to a non Newtonian fluid, like silly putty. hit it with a hammer and it shatters, pull it apart slowly and it stretches and stretches, yank it apart and it snaps

[@matthewwain9958]

" 210-240°C" for das filament. I'm going to suggest that this isn't 'real' PETG at all. Printing for PETG is in the range of 230 to 250 typically. Seeing 210c on the label makes me believe it's a blend. (For normal PETG in the USA, I use Ataraxia Art filament PETG, which is EXCELLENT. For Carbon Fiber PETG I use Atomic Filament Extreme Pro CF PETG, which is exceptional, as long as it's dry).

[@rf2632_]

You sounds like Klaus from American Dad....

[@Eigengrau608]

Now do PEEK... $$$

[@VRIjerky]

The difference you observed between a ductile failure when slowly loaded, and a brittle failure when shock loaded is pretty classic actually. When the material is slowly loaded, the polymer chains have time to unwind and stretch out leading to the classic plastic deformation you've observed. When the material is loaded rapidly, there isn't time for those micro movements to occur and the material simply cleaves off. Such clean breaks are pretty typical of shock loaded failures in otherwise ductile materials. If I remember my polymer chemistry from college correctly (and it's possible I don't have it quite right) this tends to happen on the more tightly packed polymer structures.

[@brianmulloney1887]

7:39

[@Chipux]

Hello,

[@janvanhaute5117]

In my experience, print speed is more important for PETG then temperature for good layer bonding. PETG doesn't like fast printing speed. While 45mm/s for normal pieces is quite decent, best printing ( especially bridging ) is around 25mm/s @ 235C ( or for example when printing precise GT2 pulleys ). Lowering print speed reduces the effects of surface tension ( the material in it's molten state right after it leaves the nozzle ) > to observe the effects of this, try extruding a small strand in air and measure it with a caliper... you'll see that the extrusion is always much thicker then the nozzle diameter. While this has limited value for normal layers, it is important for bridging.

[@alkuinkoenig7580]

Huge congrats on your work. I'm new to 3d printing, but since the beginning I'm mainly interested in doing structural parts, so your videos are of great help to decide on the right settings for getting good strength and stability. You rock!

[@OwenBuckingham11]

Thanks this is super useful, just got some HatchBox PETG and have been wanting to know how to maximize it's strength. Keep up the good work!

[@Technivorous]

this is a very interesting concept. as mentioned below the most impactful setting for pteg is the speed, but the temperature surely has some effect on the ability to bond layers. interesting to see the difference. thanks!

[@julianfahlbusch5731]

Super cool das du alles wissenschaftlich mit messungen aufarbeitest.

[@kenwahl4832]

Hey Stefan. Habe kürzlich deine Videos entdeckt und muss sagen, du machst da gute Arbeit. Ich habe mich vor kurzen selbst genauer mit PETG und dem Einfluss der Drucktemperatur beschäftigt. Als Prüfverfahren habe ich dem Kerbschlagversuch durchgeführt. Es hat sich gezeigt, das die besten Ergebnisse mit meinem PETG bei 230°C erreicht werden.

[@goldbunny1973]

Excellent presentation that saves us all a LOT of trouble (and wasted filament) hacking our way through the same calibration and settings tests. Liked, and Subscribed.