Are you printing at the right temperature?
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- Опубліковано 11 сер 2022
- Do lower temperatures print cleaner and are hotter prints stronger? Let's settle this.
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One aspect of temperature that you didn't cover in this video, but have in past ones: thermal expansion. The hotter you print, the more the plastic expands, and therefore contracts while cooling... This is one of the main factors in warping and necessitates a heated build chamber for certain materials. The low temps parts aren't shrinking as much and are tighter when put in the same hole as a part printed at a higher temp.
Also print speed is a huge factor in print temperature. The bottom line is heat transfer, how much heat is getting into the plastic, what that heat does, and how long it stays there. If I want stronger prints with better adhered layers, I print slower. If strength isn't a factor and I need a faster print, I turn up the temp with the speed.
What would you consider as slow printing? I can most certainly confirm that printing Cf nylon at 30mm/s is much weaker than printing the exact same part at 60mm/s. By printing faster, the lower layers are actually at a higher temperature thus improving bonding strength. You can take this further by printing at 60-80mm/s but at far higher temperatures than recommended. For example, I print Taulmans CF nylon at ~70mm/s at 280-285°C. They recommend 255-260°C. This makes the layer adhesion insanely strong and the part overall is leagues stronger and stiffer. The downside is supports will bond way too well and warping becomes a factor to be weary of.
@@FrozenByFire3 there's probably multiple ways to reach a certain result, with different downsides
Thomas is getting more and more like Stefan. Won't be long before he CNC's a proper pull test jig.
I'd say the opposite is closer to the truth...
Yeah, but i find the charts that Stefan showed, very hard to read. Go-go Thomas!
Who is Stefan?
@@muffty1337 Another UA-cam 3D printer/CNC content creator (Channel is "CNC Kitchen"). Thomas and Stefan have Podcast together (Podcast is "The Melt Zone").
@@muffty1337 Stefan from CNC Kitchen.
Cold prints getting stuck in the impact test jig: parts printed at lower temperatures likely shrink less after printing, resulting in larger parts and a tighter fit.
For me, 10 ° under high number on filament spool has always worked well. Then bed pla 55 ° and Petg 85 °
Biggest fix I’ve learn for bed adhesion and avoiding fuzzy first lays with a PEI Flex sheet is just occasionally washing it in the sink under hot water with dawn dish detergent. Try this first when things go wrong all of the sudden. I learned this after days of settings chasing. Great video!
11:40 "I should note that the default temperature for Prusament PETG, on PrusaSlicer on a Prusa MK3 is 250 Prusa-degrees"
I know Prusa have printers and slicers but I didn't know they had their own units 😂
All the post-soviet 3d printing enthusiasts refer to "parrots", not degrees. This origins from an old cartoon scene with character measuring a big snakes body length with a parrot. Every printer reports temperature a bit off (most of them are Chinese here, so more prone to this behavior) so sharing what temperature you use is more "scientific" if you mention the units may vary this way:)
Most of the thermistors are manufacturered in China. Even on American and German 3D printers, so mostly their temperatures are the same as the Chinese ones. You can buy thermistors with different temperature tolerances. All from China. So it depends on what is installed and where exactly it is located in measurement. Also the thermistors are all rated at 25C but have different thermal constants. But the manufacturers are aware of what these are and choose them specifically. The possibility is manufacturers don't test a part to confirm the characteristic tolerance is within spec.
White PETG is always reliably bad for me, doesn’t matter the brand I’ve tried. Something about the pigment just makes it worse than every other color.
I agree I avoid white filaments
Had the same with white PLA. It was terrible so never again.
All white filaments are a hassle to me, no matter the polymer. PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, TPU, no matter what, I need at least two prints to get acceptable results.
The "milky white" PETG I get from California Filaments has always printed fine for me. My guess is that they have less of the white pigment - hence the semi-translucent "milky" appearance. If you really want white in PETG, you might give that a try.
Do they just have to load it up too much with the TiO_2 powder to make PET look opaque enough?
I got into printing a month ago by picking up an Ender 3 V2. Your high-quality videos have been immensely helpful. Keep up the great work!
It's been a year, but slap the Professional Firmware by mriscoc, it's a game changer and so nice
The trouble is, each printer and each brand of filament is going to be slightly different, meaning that really we still need to do at least some calibration with our printers and filaments no matter how much information we have. This testing, and other testing like it, definitely gives us a helping hand to get closer with less testing, but the testing will still be needed.
Great review, and plotting the values helped me understand the results better. I know that a lot of effort went into those charts, and it is appreciated.
Thank you for these tests and your summary. Great information in the end and you answered a few questions I had in mind along the way.
Thank you Thomas for publishing a neat video in the middle of summer. So we can print at the right temperature. ❤❤❤❤❤
I love these kind of videos. It'd be fun to see you print a bunch of different filaments, go over the challenges of them and do some stress tests. Love the videos keep em coming!
Fantastic in depth video Tom. I'm a bit of a materials science nerd so this was very informative to me. Thanks!!!
Thank you Thomas for a lot of work to do all these tests.
I'm glad you got back to the "old" tracks when you focused on the topic, not personal tours and sometimes strange opinions and comments.
There was a point where I saw too much irritation in your videos that pissed me off enough that I stopped following your channel.
Let's focus on the topic without intrusive private content. I appreciate you for that. And many others, probably too.
Regards.
That was really a great video with all the tests to answer all the questions, thanks!
very informative, i appreciate your work taking the time to figure this all out
honestly, temperature settings are something I set on a per-print basis. Things that I factor in are: Nozzle size, purpose of the print, room temperature, are there any large bridges etc.
I generally print PLA with 200-210 Celsius, a bit lower for 0.2 nozzle, about 220 with a 0.6/0.8 nozzle(those are mostly vasae mode prints where I want it to hold water and usually increase flow to about 110% ish)
what bed temperature?
thank you so much, i always have problems with dimensions of my parts and tried everything to fix it. I will now test higher temp bc i have always printed at 195°
Glad to see another video. Thanks for the great content as always!
Watching this makes me glad I can create project profiles directly on my old faithful Ultimaker S3 dual nozzle printer (with NFC filament recognition) (auto levelling & heating). Using preset profiles that I found can include all known and customisable settings, making it easy for novices like me, to start at commercial grade printing qualities, without the hassle of knowing in advance what's required, just splice and load to get projects completed quickly, with a professional finish that requires little to no post processing.
Thanks for sharing your invaluable information. 👍
Fantastic video. I appreciate the effort Thomas.
thank you so much for that analysis, it will be really helpful for the improvement of my full 3D printed Bronco
9:30 My guess would be, that there's a higher pressure build up in the nozzle, when you print colder.
And because of that pressure, the filament will bloat up more, when leaving the nozzle.
yup, was thinking the same thing. Lower temp = higher viscosity, which in turn results in higher extrusion pressures and increased die swell.
I would have thought slicers allocate for shrink, but too cold and the parts don't shrink to expected dimensions and end up slightly larger
@@erikwithaknotac Except that the user sets the Extrusion Multiplier so that the final extrusion width should match the value entered in the slicer for extrusion width, theoretically taking shrinkage out of the equation for the baseline. Also, for the lower temperatures, thermal expansion plays a much lower role than die swell for governing extrusion width (you can verify this by observing the relative change in line width with change in temperature vs change in extrusion speed).
I am assuming that Tom didn't change the EM settings for each temperature, but just used the stock setting for the entire run, which means that the main contributor to extrusion width is going to be die swell.
Good tips but in general it's simply easier to pick the highest temperature which allows bridges and overhangs to work well. It's usually very close to the optimal temperature, there's little to be gained by going higher.
I have also noticed PLA having a tendency of printing less glossy, more matte at lower temperatures, which is why I tend to lower the temperature somewhat for decorative items; matte items just tend to look better than glossy. I haven't bothered increasing temperatures and instead just adjust infill and/or shells, if I need stronger parts -- I haven't done any proper measurements, but I haven't seen any benefit in increased temps.
@Benson Except your analogy is idiotic and doesn't work. One can e.g. perfectly well tell an improvement in acceleration even without a speedometer.
Hey Thomas, that was awesome video. learned a lot today, thank you. Keep going my friend
Thanks for the test! I do appreciate the time it takes to print all those test samples =)
I usually found that "glittery" PLA prints way smoother welds at 225 compared to 215 that i actually found works best for run of the mill single color PLA.
Additives definitely skew the temperatures. Anything with an iridescent additive I crank up to 230, else it just falls apart.
I had to lower temperatures when used 0.2 nozzle. When print in low height rows standard 230C degrees with PETG result in deformations and stringing, so I use 220C instead. Which gave me decent quality on small detail.
i find if you follow the numbers printed on the rolls, I get the ideal finish, so long as everything is tuned up. i offer matte parts as opposed to glossy, and for the PETG i use 220C gets me matte and 240C gets me glossy. just the lower temp requires a slower feed rate to prevent under extrusion.
bottom line, the most important research you can do, is on your own. working with the 1st layer or first 5 or so layers you can really dial in your feeds and speeds as well as the ideal temp for what you are going for, whether is "strong" parts, nice looking parts, quick and dirty, etc.
What fan speed do you use.i use 0 for the 1st layer and then use 40 to 70% for subsequent. I am not sure what's est yet.
Velocity affects surface gloss for PETG as well. If my print speeds are not constant, my prints are always banded with gloss and matte layers.
Lower temp parts are overdimensioned because leaving the nozzle retaining the stress of a larger filament expand in XY and contracts in Z to retain its previous shape. Raising temps or using turbulent nozzles like CHT reduce the effect.
Always nice when you watch a video like this and think, 'Yeah, I'll just keep printing my first layer at 225 and the rest at 215 for PLA' like I have been for about a year now.
Thanks for the info...however in engineering terms, impact strength is different to tensile strength. Strength in printed parts with regards to heat and adhesion properties is always going to be governed by application needs. So, print variables should be practiced depending on application. No one setting is actually better than the next. That would be my conclusion. Thanks for the great and interesting content. Much appreciated.
Amazing video, great job!
That Segway to prusament filament. Slick thou... Best one this far 😂
Thanks for the great work! Keep it up.
I've been printing PLA at 200° this whole time and was disappointed in my layer adhesion. THANK YOU!
Great video! Would be interesting to see (part of) the test repeated for fine tuning. So eg PLA at 209, 212, 215, 218, 221 or so.
I found that my PETG and PLA prints were getting more and more matte the faster the printer was moving, and I wanted a more glossy and clean look so I increased the temperature as much as I could before the bridges started to sag and then I was able to reach much higher speeds without getting that matte finish. This I think means that the matte finish happens when your filament hasn't had enough time in the hot zone before getting pushed out, so I guess a volcano hotend would help if you print at lower temperatures at faster speeds.
I'm currently using the Bambu Lab 3d printer P1S. It's an enclosed printer. I noticed that the smaller surface area I'm working with, the hotter I need to print, but I'm only heating up the bed from 35C to 55C. The biggest issue I believe I was having, was the Bambu default settings for the cooling fans is maxed out. My parts were flying off the bed.
Definitely going to take some time to learn the best settings for heating and cooling.
Fantastic video Thomas. I will start printing at 215 I normally hover around 200. Great efforts 👍🏻Motters 🇬🇧
Thanks for your contribution to this type of info. However, what about the affects of fan cooling on layer adhesion. For instance using 15% fan power vs 100% fan on PLA prints. I know personal experience shows this is definitely the case for PETG favoring 15% fan power and not much more for best layer adhesion.
Absolutely. I appreciate the time gone into the video. I just wish this was mentioned. Unless my layer times are low, I print with no fan for PETG to get max strength. It makes a huge difference especially with layer adhesion.
@@karlosss1868 Odd I have always printed with 100% and never noticed adhesion issues. I'll have to play with it now.
@@karlosss1868 I agree for max strength running petg with 0% fans. But If the print design needs some assistance for some fan cooling for bridging, it is always a balance of quality of overall shape yields vs strength in conjunction with overall quality of a parts intended purpose.
Probably something to do with exponential growth of the search space.
CNC kitchen has a great video on how cooling fan affects part strength. With PLA and PETG you can turn fan down alot but you must print your parts really slow. This will allow the layer to cool enough to not have bad print quality but you must be patient.
3 factors will impact your dimensional accuracy in regards to temperature.
1) shrink as the part cools
2) viscosity in the nozzle (pressures)
3) viscosity of extruded material, allowing more creep.
Each can be measured and calibrated to identify the cause, then correct.
You will need to adjust using a couple test prints.
8:07 I too prefer matte, but the tiny steppiness from marlin input shaping at low frequency has enabled me to print hotter as it also makes the finish more matte
Thanks for doing science! I've just been printing PLA at the default setting of 200C, except bumping up the first layer to 205C for better bed adhesion at the cost of more elephant's foot. Maybe I need to do some testing myself to see if slightly higher temps would be better for the subsequent layers.
what do you set the bed temperature?
Very interesting, thanks for the video
The only confounding part: how accurate is each machine’s thermistor?
A good point. A test like this can give you a good sense of the general tendency, but you need to calibrate to your own machine in the end. My gut feel is that consumer machines probably vary enough that any two machines could easily be 5C different for the same indicated temperature. You could check build plates with a simple IR thermometer. But nozzle temp is a bit tougher.
@@wturber my ender 3 s1 bed was about 8° C lower than the temperature sensor reported before I redid the PID tuning and added insulation foam. Now its only 4°C colder than set.
@@twanheijkoop6753 I should actually test mine.
09:30 Could it be that the material gets stressed from the high nozzle pressure buildup occuring when printing at too low temperatures, causing residual stresses in the material to cause something similar to die swell, messing up the final dimensions?
That's a good thought
It’s can also be because the parts shrink less than they do at regular temperatures. Those tenths of a mm could turn a loose fit into a pressfit.
The shear stress and resulting die swell you mentioned could also be a reason especially if Thomas printed the parts at the same speed-/ flow settings and only changed the temperatures for the parts.
He didn’t mention calibration for the different temperatures which could somewhat falsify the tests.
Yeah I think not fully melted polymer will have swelling around the extruder.
I second the pressure therory. I think the cause is the higher viscosity of the material at lower temperatures, resulting in more pressure against "itself", thus increasing layer width, because the other directions are constricted.
@@kkpal Die swell does increase at lower temperatures but that is only relevant when printing into free air. When laying down filament its width is determined by the volume per unit length over layer height. With the higher pressure at lower temperatures I would expect the hobbed drive to give a bit less filament, not more, so it is a mystery to me why the parts would get bigger. Perhaps bigger layer start zits due to the extra pressure.
I am happy to see that the 215° that I print at for PLA is in fact the best option. Although I do have some silk PLA that clogs my printer unless I print it at 225°.
For cold extrusion temps, the filament is not entirely molten but soft enough to squeeze through the nozzle and then expands after it exits causing the layers to be thicker thus poorer tolerance. It may even be molten on the outside since that is the part of the filament in direct contact with the heater block but with a soft inner core not totally hitting the molten temp. You can see this with a zoom camera on the nozzle.
If you print below temperature, you will have some solid and soft mix on the polymer, it will make it wiggle while it leaves the nozzle making the tolerances bigger
I print my South African SA Filament PETG at lower than recommended after numerous temp towers. I even had to abandon the manufacturers PETG temp tower range of 235 to 255C. I find it prints best in gloss at 210C. I thought it was pla except it is flexible like petg and won't stick to my glass bed unless I turn up the heat on the bed to 70C and 250C for the first layer. It's also really strong. It's supposed to be copper coloured (actually more like pot plant orange brown). The fan speed I am still tweeking. Zero on first layer and 40 to 70% on subsequent layers.
The bed adhesion graph was super interesting, going to change to 215 now.
cool that u used the charpy v notch test
Interesting topic as always
Thanks for sharing your expriments :-)
I never printed matt filament, neither PETG nor PLA.
The matt-optics is the result of the filament filled with some stuff (chalk, talc, whatever) and it wears down the nozzle.
I’m not surprised that your results were bad.
very interesting, thank you !
Btw you should really tweak for the brand (and sometimes color) of filament too. I have some white PLA that strings horribly at 220C and still strings a ton at 215C but works flawlessly at 210C.
I did a nozzle change recently, and i realized 😂 I needed to print significantly hotter because the nozzle was “clogging” but really it just was t following good enough.
Great video. I’ve been printing PLA at 190 and 200, which by your tests is waaaaaay to low of a temp.
I’ll modify my setting now! :)
Note that every brand PLA can have it's own ideal printing temperature, so you're better off doing some test prints yourself I think.
Printing at 190 is not too low for some brands PLA..
I love the concept of sequential printing, but every time I try the first part comes out fine but the others have terrible first layer extrusion, like when you print without a skirt or staring line and there’s not enough filament in the nozzle at the start of the perimeters.
I'm guessing the cold parts are coming out oversized due to die swell. Basically you have a greater temperature gradient as not all the plastic is coming out at the same level of "melted". This leads to internal stresses that can cause the filament to expand out of the nozzle
Bingo.
The larger dimensions on parts when printing below their optimal temperature can most likely be explained from non-uniform shrinking in relation to the printing temperature. I have long had the suspicion that shrinkage in 3D printed parts is non-lineair. Meaning that the hotter a print is or the more volume of plastic is deposited the more the part will shrink because of the disturbance in the polymer chains being more or less. Keep in mind that with 3D printing we're at the low-end of the liquid range of most plastics. PETG usually prints fine at 230C whilst I believe it's injection molded at close to 280C~ don't quote me on that, but I know from my own injection molding press that I cant get good shots at the same temp as the printing temp.
Long story short; 3D printed polymers, specifically FDM printed polymers most likely shrink more when printed at higher temperatures and less when printed at lower printing temperatures.
This could well show up in printing a tower at scaling temperatures during the print and the carefully measuring the print.
The mechanism behind it must have something to do with how to polymer chains crystallise. I'm not sure if the amorphous or crystalline nature of a polymer would matter or not.
I had an interesting experience with PETG the other day. It was printing like doo doo and everything I tried didn't change it. So in desperation I turned up the hot end temp to 260. It started printing and was looking ok but the extruded PETG sounded like a bowl of rice crispys. You could see the the tiny bubbles in the layer lines. I figured the filament was trash because it was full of water and just let it print. After a little while the bubbles went away and the print looked smooth and glossy. I guess the take away from this is that if you think you filament is wet, crank up the temp and see if it bubbles. If it does, dry it out, and maybe save yourself a headache and a couple of dollars too.
The filament on the outside of the spool absorbs more water than filament inside the spool. Filament on the inside is blocked by outside filament.
@@gratefulamateur1393 That's what I figured afterwards. I thought this info might help some others with similar problems. Thanks for substantiating my theory.
Lower Temperatures at "higher speeds" means that the material is less viscous and as such the extrudate swell (die swell) is more severe which might have influence the tolerances. If you print them at lower speeds the impact test samples might fit better (potentially).
+1
This was a really informative video, thanks Thomas! I do wonder how much ideal temperature varies among the different filament manufacturers? There seems to be a lot of variation depending on the brand you print with, particularly when it comes to PETG (at least in my experience).
I've had it change from one batch to the next on the same manufacturer. It was esun pla plus but I'm also suspicious my hot-end calibration has drifted.
I've defiantly experienced dimensional shifts when printing hotter. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with thermal expansion of the plastic while printing. Yes the mechanics are making the same moves and the extruder is pushing the same steps resulting in the same mass. (As others has mentioned pressure, mass would be something to look into.) But I think even with the same mass you can get different dimensions because hot parts will shrink more. Say a printer is accurately placing a 0.6mm line on the permitter of a part at 190c, when that part cools down to room temp it will have shrunken down to Xmm. Being less than 0.6mm. The same line *extruded to the same accuracy of 0.6mm* at say 230c, will shrink to Ymm at room temp. But Y will be less than X because Y had more temperature shrinkage, thus the part printed at 230 will have overall smaller dimensions.
I had to shake my head a bit about this test batch. Firstly, if I'm printing a part for which strength is a concern, you can darn well bet that I'm not going to print with two walls and 15% infill. That's the kind of setting I would use for generally non-functional parts that deal with little or no real stress. For strong parts, you really do often want your part to "pretend" that it is an injected molded part. Why? Because injection molding is expensive and sometimes you want a part to actually do useful work. I don't print my bike tire removal levers with two walls and 15% infill precisely because I'm going to subject them to high bending loads near the limits of the PETG material - much as your bending test does.
Secondly, you chose a matte PETG?!?!? Even if you didn't run into the semi predictable problems that you showed (I print a fair bit of matte black PETG because I really like the finish), I would never assume that a matte PETG filament would provide typical PETG results. In looking at matte PETG, it appears to have some kind of filler that gives it the matte finish. I don't know what that filler is, but I'm assuming that it does not increase structural strength and that it probably compromises it. I treat it as a different material than ordinary PETG. If I were to take this kind of time to do a test, I'd pick either ordinary colors that were the same for both materials, or neutral/no pigment colors. In this case, clear and "natural" for PETG and PLA respectively would be preferred. Doing this means you are testing the plastic and not the dyes or fillers.
I'm a fan of both Thomas and Stefan. But I found this test video a bit dumbfounding.
I think you misunderstood his explanation about the strength testing parts. He wasn't trying to test ways to make strong parts, he was trying to test the strength of typical printed parts using the most common settings of 2 walls and 15% infill. There are better ways to make strong parts than that. CNC kitchen did a great video on that, it's really most efficient to increase shell thickness.
On the second point, I think he was using the standard Prusament PETG that isn't a special matte finish. I had never heard of the matte finish specific PETG though, that sounds really interesting! Have you found the matte black to have significant mechanical weaknesses? That sounds kind of perfect for a project I've got going.
@@evanbarnes9984 I think you missed my point. People printing with only two walls generally aren't very concerned about strength. In situations where strength is any more than a passing issue, people print more and thicker walls - for the exact reasons the CNC Kitchen video outline. I'd also think that having more layers would be make for a statistically better test since with more layer lines, any unusually weaker line would have less relative influence on the results. Maybe his one "noisy" graph would have given better results if more layer lines were involved?
To be fair, his two 0.6mm lines are just as thick as three 0.4 mm lines.
As for the matte black PETG, I can't say for sure that it isn't as strong. My impression is that its "chalky" nature probably makes for weaker adhesion. But I've never actually tested if. I use the matte because I really like the look. In fact, it can look very nice when combined with the Cura "Fuzzy Skin" feature. If you'd like, I'll do some simple tests. In fact, I'll probably do it either way since this is something I'm a bit curious about myself.
As for the look of the filament, search for California Filaments. The have reviews online that often have photos. They also have matte in, I think four colors.
i always printed my PLA at 190°C and was fine with it. Interesting results, will try out a bit more heat :D
Great to see that prusa has their temps in line! I do get pretty bad stringing with PETG at stock temps though, but I do think that is due to the swampy-ness of Florida more than anything else. Easy to clean up, but a bummer none the less! The impact strength is definitely an interesting one. Those variations could be from layer strength as well either yielding or snapping. Obviously a yield will absorb more than a snap? Not sure if there is correlation there.
Stringing is mostly from not enough cooling for PETG as I had a stock ender 5 pro did tests with it stock before I did the upgraded cooling mod huge difference and no more strings and can even print faster with the new cooling saving time.
@@Bigdog1787 I run mostly Prusas, cooling is not normally an issue. PETG is known to string as it gets a little bit moist. Having ambient humidity near 50% it is no surprise to me. We just deal with it
I have the same problem, and that's with normal humidity and dried filament. Prusament PETG at Stock 250°C prints absolutely awful, hat to go way down to 230 degrees to get reasonable (still not perfect) prints. I am using a plated copper nozzle though, and thought it was due to the better heat transfer. Anyway, i am not happy with how the Prusament PETG Prints on my MK3...
i print pla in 210 and petg in 240 for me best results , i depends on few more things like temp alone in my experience. my printers stands in an enclosure and there i can slightly lower my temps
Great video!
Constructive criticism.. reconsider your force to break test methodology. The pipe used as a lever has a variable angle of incidence on the printed test part, when it appears you are trying to test vertical strength.. you are actually testing strength in a constantly changing Y and X vector. Rig up a pulley that is in between the luggage scale and your force input and you will constrain it to the Y axis.
One important thing is the environment temperature. I print in 23°C environment without enclosure and my PLA Benchy is with PLA Polymaker at 205°C fantastic. My Voron with enclosure (doors are opend) I have around 30°C and my Benchy has overhangs. First I thought it's because the new mosquito hotend and wrong cooling geometry but I think it's because the environment temperature.
So if you print don't forget the environment temperature for PLA
The PLA we use in Argentina (3N3) is printed at lower temperatures. 215 degrees is actually almost too much. We print at 195-210 degrees on this material.
Do you have plans for the impact tester setup you used? I like the simplicity of your tester. I'd like to build something similar to impact test with
Dude, I’ve got to say, your rate of improvement in English speaking/presentation is impressive. Your English has always been good, but you sound nearly native now. Your inflection patterns are indistinguishable from a native speaker. Any tips for a fellow language learner?
Danke für die Aufklärung!
I was trying around with different temperatures recently as well, but i ended up destroying All my results by switching way too often between PLA and PETG. This resulted is a big plug of solid filament in the cold section of my revo nozzle. What a pain in the b*** to remove that...
Now i dedicate one Set of nozzles to PLA and one Set to PETG. At least this was something i learned during my Experiments.
That was interesting. Thanks
I am using an out of the box Anycubic Kobra and printing PETG and PLA with identical flawless quality using the Kobra profile from Ultimaker Cura. I am using eSun PETG black and Anycubic's (noname?) PLA. I am new to 3D printing (just finished my first 1kg role of filament) and apparently this is a good result. So I wanted to share. 🙂
I accidentally printed PLA at 260 yesterday, it looked fine but was rather brittle
generally I find Hatchbox PLA to print best at 10° above the listed minimum (so 190°C for the normal stuff, 220°C for matte). I get good flow and detail, and stringing can be reduced by enabling retraction for ~5mm
I love your tests, they are really good. CNCKitchen is also doing a lot of tests that are really, really great. But in my honest opinion there are one variable that is missing, and that is speed. By speed i really mean volumetric flowrate. If the flowrate is higher, the temperature of the molten filament coming out of the nozzle is gonna be lower, and it's gonna impact all of the things you have tested here. I guess if we all consider prusa's standard profiles the standard speed settings with an e3d v6 hotend and brass nozzle, this is not gonna be an issue, but if you start speeding up your prints, like if you're printing on a voron, or a bambu lab printer, all of this is not really gonna apply anymore, as there are now way more variables here. The type of hotend (length of meltzone), nozzle type (brass vs. hardened steel or even a cht nozzle), volumetric flowrate and print temperature is most definately gonna matter.
For many users, this video is gonna make a lot of sense, but for a few of us that is printing faster than most, it's not really gonna apply, is it?
Engineering school was a long time ago for me, but does part cooling have an impact on brittleness as well? I recall from my materials science course that quenching metal rapidly made it harder but more brittle-also true for plastic?
Ok the hammer test was waaaaaaay to satisfying 🤣
hotter layers have more time to shrink within second after deposition. Same thing can be observed on curves sometimes, when some perimeters just shrink away leaving gap.
Hi Thomas, I really like your content and sure have a printer or two :o
Latest I tried nylon and figured that one needs to condition it after printing as well. I wonder why no one does feature this, since it seems to be an industry standard to do so. Would like to see tests of conditioned nylon as well.
Plus: I constantly have trouble ordering the right parts when it comes to my hotend/extruder combinations. MK10/9/8/Vulcano/All-Metal... It is just very confusing. Could you shed some light on this topic too? Keep on printing. Thanks.
"Je-JLCPCB" I was deadass expecting a sick drop. 😆
@ThomasSanladerer my Mini (first 3D printer) will be here in a week or so, should I use the latest standard release of Prusa Slic3r or one of the betas or alphas?
Is there a link to the Tom test board?
Great video! I have an offtopic question. Why are you using your prusa more than your voron? Since I have build a voron 2.4 my other printers are just collecting dust.
Thanks for the big effort, nicely done! I know that one can set the temperature of the first layer separtely, but is it also possible to set the temp for the top layers seperately? In this way, you could get strong parts with a nice matte finish, I think, I would like that! I know, you can change settings based on layer height, but then you have to adjust it for every print. Worth a test, at least, I think I will try that once!
Some do this automatically but you have to know if you need it as I've had prints go bad from this too.
Thanks!
Thank you, Terry!
I created a pressure petg cotton algae filter and the pressure reached 80psi pressure, there were small leaks I just super glued it and now it has no leaks. (I don't know if the pressure is correct, its the cutoff rating on the Chinese 12v Water Pressure Diaphragm Pump ) and I got the best layer adhesion on 250 degrees Celsius with full infill.
bubbling/boiling off the moisture in the material is not hydrolysis. it just sounds fancy
Can it be that the residual heat keeps plastic more sticky and the polymer chains have more time to form longer chains. And in the colder the chains get shorter. I think a trip in a heated chamber can be interesting to try. And you have so many variables that works here like residual heat in the heating block pid moisture, wind drafts, heating profiles.product variations , But still so good to see the result helps me figure out what's wrong with my prints. Keep up the good work.
Where can I find the TomTest stl?
I see someone mention thermal expansion/contraction as a possible reason for the thicker parts at lower temperatures (i.e. lower temps = less difference between the volume of plastic when it's hot vs. cold leading to slightly bigger parts). I would argue that wouldn't be the case due to the extrusion happening above the melt zone so, assuming all steps can complete, an equal amount would be extruded.
However, I know that there might be skipped steps at lower temps. So it's even more counter-intuitive.
That said, I wonder if die swell could be a factor? The more pressure you have to exert on a viscous plastic, the more die swell there might be? Just grasping at straws.
I've been printing PLA at 190 like a mad man. I think i need to go back at print some calibration parts.
Do you have a link to those all in one test prints? The ones with the overhang and whatnot?