i print petg on g10(garolite/fiberglass) it sticks down reallly well(you definately cannot take the print off) while hot and it self releases really nice when it cools down
@BuildGUY I've used picture frame glass from goodwill for years. Its cheap and works well. Just got a new printer with fancy flexible magnetic bed coated with pei. I feel spoiled now! Its nice not having to get stuck prints off with a razor blade. Though glass gives the absolute best bottom finish!
I used to use PETG for almost everything, until I recently started using ABS. If you are printing a transparent PETG, there is something that you want to be aware of. PET & PETG will crystalize when they get too hot, or if they are heated for to long, thus you need to ensure that the filament is constantly moving. The glycol modifier in PETG slows this process a bit, but you still need to be wary of it. For your print, it means the difference between a cloudy print and a beautifully transparent print. I saw that some people were having layer adhesion issues, which is most likely caused by, 1) Hot end is not hot enough, or 2) Bad or wet filament. Wet filament will also cloud transparent PETG filaments with microscopic steam explosions. PETG is extremely sticky, especially to itself (which is why it strings so well), so there should never be any layer adhesion issues.
ASA is also worth considering. It is very similar to ABS, has same temperature resistance properties, but also warps less, emits less odor while printing and is UV resistant.
I agre with ozren asa has all the benefits of abs, just with slightly less fumes and is designed for outdoors in heat and with uv resistance. As asa exists it makes me wonder about why abs is used at all..
I definitely had issues with PETG being attracted to copper and its tendency to curl back onto the nozzle. A steel nozzle fixes that issue completely. For me, this was the cause of a major hot blob in one of my early overnight prints and was always causing minor first layer adhesion issues. But ever since moving away from copper/brass things have been perfect.
By coincidence, I have my very first spool of PETG arriving today. I thought it was time to expand beyond PLA, so this video was very timely. Thank you for it. 👍
@@hippysplace - I had no trouble printing with it. I was worried for nothing. You probably are as well. Although my X1C maintains a warm chamber temp within the enclosure, if that makes any difference.
Super helpful! I recently had a complex PLA mechanism warp to the point of uselessness because I left it in a warm car, so I can't wait to get my Prusa and start printing again in PETG
LOL, this would have been a good video for me 4 months ago! I bought a used Anycubic Mega Pro and without research bought some PETG filament! OMG what a freakin nightmare to get figured out with no prior knowledge of 3D printing! That being said... I finally figured it out and did some successful prints and then made a dehumidifier box and subsequently purchased some Silk PLA. I have since switched back and forth between filament types and have had success with all of them along with some failures! Good video!
Nice guide, one point I'd add from my experience, PETG tends to warp much more than PLA, especially when you print large surfaces on the bed (common with functional parts). I've found that printing under an enclosure solve this issue much better than using glue or toying around with temperatures and layer height.
I run my plate at 85 (for Prusament, even 90) and that has worked out very well for me. Sticks down very well, releases easily. Perhaps that 70 degree setting contributed to the warping... this material does like warmth. :p
I've found that while printing with petg in recent times with an ender 5 plus that the filament "sticking" to the copper extruder only seems to occur when the temperature it prints at is too low. Additionally, I've found more success printing fine parts at a speed of 40mm/s than the stock 80 that the ender 5 plus uses.
This video is so well-timed for me. I've been printing with Inland PLA+ forever and decided to try PETG; bought some yesterday at Micro Center. Wish me luck
@@johnnycastor8634 pla+ is amazing and ive never had any issues. the PETG is definitely more challenging to print properly but i've gotten a couple nice things out of it (like a new fan shroud for the hot end)
This has been the best knowledge and we'll said video about PETG I'm just learning now about because I accidentally bought. Learning a lot from this video. Very well said thank you so very much. I follow this guy he speaks correctly when explaining
First thing anyone should do, especially with a new roll of filament, is to not only dehydrate for a couple of hours, but print a temp tower. This will help you immensely with any filament. I do this religiously and haven't had a failed print in a while now. Also, you need to do some fast prints to see about stringing. The just adjust your retraction distance first, if tha helps some but not a lot, adjust your retraction speed.
Good video! With my PEI smooth plate I spray it down with windex first and have no issues with removal. I just let the plate cool completely before removing the print.
It's handy to have some qtips around to wipe the PETG off the nozzle. Heat it up to 230c and it will wipe off easily. You can heat up to around 120c and use a fine tip tweezer to pull the PETG globs off the nozzle before wiping. I usually print at 230 - 240c with an 80c bed for the whole print with 25% fan speed with a dual 4010 blower setup and a microswiss clone from trianglelab. I find that dropping the bed temp down to 70c after the 3rd layer in a room with an ambient temperature of 65f will most likely lead to layer lifting from the bed. Drying the filament as mentioned is very important. Even if you leave it in an "airtight" box with desiccant over a few months, it will still exhibit blobs and layer adhesion issues. Probably best to store all unused rolls in a vacuum bag with dessicant.
One other thing I can confirm, sock or no, PETG DOES PENETRATE BENEATH the sock, I've found that having my sock off rather than on is a bonus as I am able to clean off the heater block and nozzle, I've just recalibrated my PID settings. I use and have been using a 50-50 mix of wood glue and water (Glass Build Plate), I have tried a lot of different products to use for bed adhesion / release all have worked or not, but the wood glue water mix has come in the most cost effective than any of the others. Not only that, but it is water soluble and once done just washes right off. Thanks for the good content and insight.
I've been printing some nice translucent PETG, no issues at all. Well, other than one spool where the filament got criss-crossed a la Nero since I'm an idiot, but that was on me! It is a "weepier" material, but I found the sweet spot for my stuff at 230C. It also helps if your extrusion is really dialed in well, that's important. Do your wall tests, measure with calipers, etc.
Brims are typically excessive and unnecessary because they surround the entire model, yet it's usually only corners or small footprint sections that lift. If you add "mouse ears" to the areas prone to lifting before you slice, it will help with adhesion. It will also save time and filament during the print, and reduce cleanup time after the print. -Compared to a full brim.
0:22 My second material is TPU. It seems to have the advantages of impact resistance and toughness but can be printed at lower temperatures than PETG with a stock hotend with a PTFE tube. So far I have been happy with PLA and TPU. Don't know why I'd move to PETG.
Excellent. thank you for making this video. I was having problems with the PETG not sticking. Turmed up the temps and the print is coming out very nicely. Thank You.
After finally getting my Prusa textured plate to actually stick to Petg, I haven’t looked at pla since. I’ve found that the Prusament PETG setting works best for non-Prusa filament. I also use glue stick, but only to “season” the plate by drawing the stick around the edges and a big X from corner to corner. Then I coat the bed in IPA, then with paper towel, rub the glue/ipa into a very thin slurry and let it dry. This usually lasts me weeks and I’ve had perfect first layers that cover the entire bed. PETG just feels better to the touch and I have high confidence in the durability to my parts.
@@larrydelceg2406, another tip, choose the Prusament PETG profile for all PETG. It prints a bit hotter and I’ve had great luck with non-Prusament filaments.
You hit a couple of points that are critical. Dry filament is a must, higher temps tend to work better and your print surface should have a coating to keep it from pulling off when the print is removed. I use glass and have had many chunks come off with the print.
Ok I had a part in a model train got too hot and warp. I needed to try PETG for the part for better heat resistance. My print started out ok but started pushing out nurds or crumbs. I went hotter and slower that helps but the print time went from 2 hours to 4 hours. Not have to print another part after some edits in the design. I read some papers and listened to lectures like yours. I never had a print look like yours they were beautiful. I hope to get there soon. My parts are for model trains. The guys hate to sand and paint. Thank You, Dennis
I print almost exclusively in PETG on my Anycubic I3Mega with V5 all metal hotend. I always print with a brim and sometimes even a raft because my biggest problem with PETG has always been poor bed adhesion. Anycubic uses their proprietary “ultra base” and it works great for PLA but I’ve had trouble with PETG. I use a nozzle temp of 240, any higher and the prints seem to melt at small finer points even with my cooling fan running. Bed temps are usually at 70, any higher and the painters tape I often use will pull from the bed when the print warps. I even use glue stick sometimes with prints that have a lot of surface area on the print surface to keep the PETG from permanently bonding to the tape. It’s a pain to remove when this happens. I love the material for my typical application (functional motorcycle parts) but I do not love it’s printing properties.
I found a trick for adhesion randomly online and it is to use very salty water and lightly wipe it on the print surface after it is heated and it fixed my adhesion issue along with a brim.
I've been printing for about a year and a half. My second type of filament was actually ASA, and it's still my second most common after PLA. For when I need heat-resistance and/or weather-resistance. PETG strikes me as a half-measure. I almost only ever use it when I want something transparent, as I rarely need improved impact-resistance. Similar goes for TPU. On that note, I've been meaning to try printing HIPS. Not for high impact, but for minis. I've been avoiding ABS like the plague, but given how vehemently the Voron team advises to use it for their machines, I guess I'll have to take the plunge later this year. PC and PA are on my bucket list, but I haven't had a need yet, thus yet to buy.
PC is hard to print in my experience, lots of warping and very high adhesion. Good luck!
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I was very curious about the vacuum device and the storage bag. Could you give any tips on where to find them to buy? Thank you very much and congratulations for the always excellent content!
HA! Perfect timing,It's my first time today. Printing on the Anycubic Vyper. I did just change to a bimetal/all-metal heatbreak. After reading up on all-metal settings, I dialed it in and prints are looking good. 👍
I love your Videos. I know this is a long post but I think there is some good info. You cover all the issues I had to learn on my own. Suchas as the following. I print with PETG as my goto filament. I found 240c - 245c to be the sweet spot. I also found that PETG either sticks to the bet to well of net enough. I found that if you dial in the bed temp precisely than I can get PETG to stick. And I can remove it with out damage to my build service. I found around 60c worked for me. Although I can remove PETG without damage I can just pop the parts off the flex plate by bending it. Some times I can gently twist the part off; sometimes I have to pry the part off. Adjusting the Temp (+-) 1 to 2 degrees c makes a big difference. I have uses Buldtack sheet. I now use Garolite. I think Garolite would well and it is sandal. so if Alcohol does clear the sheet then you can lightly sand it. I found that a Glass bed but does not get hot enough. On my two printer the Heaqted Bed is low by at least 20-40c. I just tried placing my Aluminum BuildTak spring sheet with Garolite top sheet directly on the Ender 3 Max Aluminum Bed. Aluminum to Aluminum. And the Temp is off only about (+-) 5c. Of course as with any Heated bed the outer sides of the bed are not going to get as hot as the Center where the actual Heater is located. I found that if a print fails and I only printed 1 or 2 layers then it is very hard to get PETG off. PETG need at least a few layers for it to be easier to remove. Lastly, I found that finding a good Manufacture of PETG is very important. I want PETG to really flow well. A lot of PETG filament just will not nelt well and there fore will partially clog my print head. Enough to have the filament under extrude a lot. I would rather deal with stringing. I found that trying to up the temperature on PETG to get it to melt better just does not help. I used to use Amazon BASIC PETG a few years ago then Amazon discontinued it. BUMMER!! that filament melted really well. I now use MatterHacker MH Build Series PETG. That would pretty well but not as good as the Amazon BASIC PETG. Also, I printed with eSUN Translucent Orange which worked pretty well on my TEVO TORNADO with an E3D Gold Edition hot end. Neither of the above filaments work well on my Ender 3 Max with a Microswiss hot end. But I think I have other issues with the Ender Printer.
I am using PETG as I like to make more functional things. I can confirm that with Prusa, it is just no problem at all. I have Mini+, using Gembird material and printing with generic PETG profile from the slicer.
Thank you for this. My mk2s is 6 years old and the parts are brittle. So now I'm printing my second time with PETG and trying to find the best settings. Imma try what you suggested. I too and using the prusa slicer. I have ESUN PETG just opened (but about same age as printer) and I'm using the prusament PETG filament settings to start before I modified everything per your video. - John
I love printing with petg. I'm using a flashforge creator pro 2, at 235c and a bed temp of 70c. This has been working really well for me. Also printing at a slower speed, and leaving the cooling off for the first couple of layers. At 240c I had some issues, but after some tweaking and dialing back the hot end temp they have been flawless. Thanks for the info. Cheers.
I much prefer to print PETG. I started out printing it, because I needed functional parts. A Prusa i3 with the textured plate, Prusaslicer and a decent PETG roll (Prusament, but I've had luck with other brands as well) and you get great parts. It's even more quiet than printing PLA because the fans don't have to run at a gazillion rpm to cool it. PETG rocks. The textured plate from Prusa is so good for htis too, scrub with 99% isopropyl, print, let it sit and cool; as the print plate cools and shrinks, the part gives up some ticking noises and when the plate is cool, you can basically just lift the part off. A great experience all round on a stock Prusa.
I have lifting on the corners of just about every PETG print (several different brands) on my Ender 3 Pro printer. I've tried adjusting nozzle and bed temperatures, varied fan speed from 0 to 100%, varied print speed, and adjusted other slicer (Cura) settings to no avail. This happens regardless of print surface (i.e., the Creality stock buildTag, glass with coating, smooth PEI). The first layer goes down without problems, but by the time the print's done, warping always happens and the corners lift. Using a brim (or brim on the corners using the Cura TabAntiWarping plugin) helps, but I've had prints where part of the brim lifted off slightly with the print at the corners. Parts of the print other than the corners stick to the build surface very well. Since this is happening all the time, something obvious may be causing this, but I'm just not seeing it. Do you have any suggestions of what else to try?
Haven't tried nearly as many things as you, but same experience. I will try no fan on first 3 layers as recommended here, but so far every single PETG part has warped slightly on the bottom, about 1mm up for about 3cm along the bed.
if you are getting plastic on the walls of the plastic its due to either the nozzle is scraping the previous layer or retractions that cause strings to build up on the nozzle walls. both is easy to fix on these direct drive extruders. the "barrier" is called a release agent ;)
Interesting bit about the hot end. I started printing petg as my first filament even before pla, i have printed a ton of petg car parts with stock ender 3, i always ran the nozzle at 235°C. I have never had a problem with the bowden melting but i might have just gotten lucky. I didnt know it could produce toxic fumes.
Not happy with my PETG printing. Much better when in dehydrator over nite at 140F. I had lots of problems with infill stringing. Also problems with printing parts with fine detail like unrecognizable small raised letters. I used 235/80 with low print speeds (50/20mm). Printed same part in PLA+ with excellent results. Today I do my first ABS and doing same part for comparison. Your videos are very valuable to me. Thank you for sharing, Doug
I was having so many problems with petg out of nowhere like it worked well for a while then just wouldn't retract right and the parts were just so messy. Finally I dried it for like 10 hours and it printed FLAWLESSLY like I couldn't believe how perfect it came out. I didn't think moisture was the problem because it happened with a new roll, but I realized they were shipping them with moisture in them. So even the stuff you get new, I recommend drying it for at least 5 or 6 hours, or 10+ if you really want to play it safe.
Great video... subscribed. For PETG cold pull (3 times) solved my problem with a Mini+ Thing you need to remember is the bed. The bed sheet for PETG is that textured one and that is it. Don't try to use other bed, or the smooth one. Also, the measures for the textured are different, it's thinner instead of thicker.... I learned the hard way, and also after I forgot to change the bed sheets.
Excellent info. I really wanted to like PETG for my functional parts but ended up hating it. That stringing, argh. However, I've recently upgraded my two printers to dual gear so I might give PETG another try. Thanks!
I consider myself a novice printer, I've converted over to PETG from PLA. I print on a metal plate, and I use a standard school glue stick as an adhesive. I use generic PETG filament, and print it at 235°C - 240°C, with the bed staying at 100°C with relative ease.
Would you recommend a 3D printer coming with an enclosure like the Ender-6 or instead make an DIY enclosure and focus on another 3D printer not coming with enclosure? Print volume of at least 250x250x400mm is needed. Carbon filled PETG and ASA will be printed for functional parts, thus needing full metal hot end and a wear nozzle.
I have printed probably 50lbs of petg in the last couple months . All metal hot end with direct drive helps. Also glass build plate with layerneer bedweld The parts pop off when it cools. I used school glue ect before and it’s just more work.
Bout to unbox my first ever 3D printer. It’s a Prusa MK4 and I’m very excited. Could use all the newbie tips do’s and don’ts 🤣Would appreciate it very much..
I dry my PETG rolls using an old Amazon Cardbord box ontop of my heatbed, heating to 50deg C, small vents on bottom and top to get fresh air in that can heat up and dry.
Great tips, the prints at the end of the video look fantastic. Stringing can be dialed in with the right (lower) temperature and the correct retraction speed and amount. I found the main problem with PETG is "blobbing", drying the filament will help a lot. I will try a nickel coated nozzle like you suggest. There is also PETG pro which should print better/easier
I've been 3D printing since there were no consumer/hobbyist machines and the only way to 3D print was to build your own 3D printer, but I'm very late to PETG. I just tried my first PETG print. It would have worked very well in PLA or TPU but the first layer failed when the print was around 5 mm tall. I was printing on a new PEI sheet with excellent bed leveling and Z offset. I guess I'll try a glue stick (meh) and a brim. Or maybe I'll reslice the part for PLA.
I have grown to prefer PETG over PLA I"ve got it dialed in pretty well now. It just always has a nice gloss and texture to it. I"m currently printing some enclosure parts so I can start with ASA in near future. Wanna build a corexy machine, my buddy told me I would use my printer to print a printer... I laughed ... no longer laughing. Seems like I print more upgrades than other items some days.
I basically never use PLA. I jumped right into PETG on my Prusa MINI and it's been amazing. I'm working on upgrading to an enclosure so I can do ASA next :D
I found that stringing is greatly reduced at 230 deg C. And I have also best results at 60mm/s speed. But it does weird stuff when you need to support it. Still have to figure that out.
I find if your having stringing issues with petg make the retraction speed quick but it doesn’t have to be far it seems to almost snap instead of string, works for me Atleast
Funny thing is, the 1st roll of petg i had, pissed me off so much I jumped to PC,nylon, and my favorite CF-nylon. With PETG my print would get halfway done and the nozzle would just clog up. Recently I got a new printer and decided to give petg another chance and got a few new rolls. Much better now, i must have got a bunk roll the 1st time. Still when I need something tuff as nails, I go with carbonx cf-pa, though I really like Priline and esun cf-pa a little better for its surface finish plus the filiment is alot less brittle than carbon x.
I have a flash forge adventure 4 . I use the .6 mm dia nozzle , 80 c bed temp and no skirt or brim. The issu3 is stringing and blobs that occur randomly . This has a Bowden tube so I was wondering it retraction settings should be longer and faster . The 5 mm length and speed at 50 is not working
You're mistaken about the Creality Ender 3. The PTFE tube, doesn't reach the hot zone in the Ender 3 hot end. The throat is narrower in the end of the cold zone, just around the edge of the heat sink. I print A LOT of PETG in my Ender 3 Pro for at least a year now, and I have no PTFE melting at all.
I have had trouble with overhangs warping upward with petg. It seems to stay soft longer than nGen. Its flexibility causes problems with tall skinny parts flopping around as it prints. In spite of being much more flexible, it seems to be just as brittle as nGen.
Hi great videos Ive been using PETG for a few years , and now trying it on a modix big 60 with a 1.0mm nozzle, omg what a pain Any settings ideas Thanks dean
Thanks for your video. I've just ordered Prusa mk3s instead of my FlashForge Adventurer 3, because it supports more than PLA and ABS. I'm gonna think 5 times before I buy PETG because it's problems with moisture. And I was shocked when you showed vacuum package for PETG spool. Not convenient material... I want to find something also cheap like PLA but more heat resistant than PLA. Probably in my dreams... 😞
Caveat, I'm a noob. My first 3 reels were PLA... results? not bad 4th reel - ABS, much better looking and durability than the PLA 5th reel - even much better looking than the ABS, but.... adhering to my glass bed seems to be an issue, as I get prints starting to curl up during the print. all this is maddening with the learning curve... but I persist .
PETG Overature or Tpomins(?) I think thats how you spell it. Ender 5 pro, temp 230-235, bed 75-80, Hictop PEI rough mag bed, dryer box...works pretty good. I did however change the board and it threw everything out of whack. working on recalibrating currenly.
I bought my 3D printer for its purpose. Rapid prototiping for injecton molding. I have know that my finale ptoduct will be PTGE so it was only logucal to use PTGE for prototiping. To this day I have only used PTGE for printing
Of course I started my 3d printing using pla as many do/have, but to be honest I don't really like pla that much for being more brittle and temperature sensitive. Because of this I have mostly moved away from pla to petg, only using pla for show models (which I don't do much of) or prototyping. Even then I wonder if it's worth it as I'm already set for petg.. Setting up settings for petg is a little more complicated than for pla and is a little of a learning curve, but once settings are turned petg is actually quite easy to work with - even without an enclosure. Settings do have to be tuned though if you want good prints.. Also, less is more with petg as far as fans go and certainly would not go above 50% - lower fan speeds give much better layer adhesion.. As for print speed I tend to run at slightly lower speed all the time (not just because I have direct drive), I find printing at lower speeds give much better quality. As mentioned, I do have direct drive and would recommend this for petg for retractions, though it's not 100% necessary. I do recommend using all metal hotend and especially the Micro Swiss on ender 3 type machines. I recommend this for all filament types including pla. Removing the bowden from the hotend is only a good thing as far as health is concerned. Flex - such as tpu uses similar bed nozzle clearance as petg and was my second filament before petg. Again though not 100% necessary direct drive is handy for flex, moreso than petg purely because of the flex. As for outdoors stuff I would say either petg or asa. Asa being slightly better for things that will be in sunlight. While you.may get away with it, asa really needs an enclosure as abs. In this day and age, with all the materials giving performance, I would actually advise against abs - I just don't see much point in it other than practicing you gas mask skills..
Printing intricate parts with PETG for me has been a big challenge. I can't seem to stop the slight oozing that gathers at random parts of the outer walls of my prints. I've reduced flow rate but then I get under extrusion on flat areas. I like the challenge but my results on small detail parts pale in comparison to the prints I get with PLA.
i read somewhere that there called “zits” and are due to the “seam” being set to random. From what I remember reading if you set the seam to linear (or the like) you’ll have a straight row of zits instead of a spread. From there you can even set it inside the structure itself so it’s not visible. I’d google about seams. Could be wrong tho.!
PLA typically absorbs moisture at an extremely slow rate, and it does become extremely brittle when it reaches a certain point. I have also found that it is extremely difficult to dry out. I actually tried drying out a small spool for up to 5 days at 55C. After 2-3 days it wasn’t nearly as brittle, but even after 5 days of drying it was still brittle enough to break after 1 or 2 bends, so I don’t even bother trying to dry PLA. I’ve heard that using a freeze drying method does work, but the cost of electricity and time is significantly greater than purchasing a fresh spool. PETG on the other hand, dries very easily.
I'm kind of struggling with adhesion to my glass plate. What's the overall mindset with temps and adhesion? How liquid do I want the material to remain once deposited on the bed and for how long? Do I want it to be deposited in an extremely liquid state and slowly cooled to the bed temp, or do I want it to cool quickly? Do I want the bed temp to be as close to the print temp as possible. If my bed is at 70, and I'm not getting good adhesion, do I want to raise or lower the printing temp?
I’ve been messing around with it for the last couple weeks and I’ve got some really interesting results regarding temperature and translucency relationships. It seems the higher the temp, the more “glossy” the surface becomes. I’m not completely sure, but my thought is that the glycol really “shines” at higher the higher temps. This also confirmed when I print with the Amolen color translucent filament. At around 230c I can get an opaque haze through the layers, but around +245-250c the finish really becomes almost as glass. But along with that, they do seem to become more brittle as well, losing some of that sweet glycol ductility. 🤷🏼♂️ Any plastics engineers in here? Great Vid!
I'm a week into 3D printing I started with petg on an ender 3 I warped the middle of the bed the printer comes with so now I can only use the corners but I recently got a creality glass bed which is perfect I just printed my son the Lucky 13 poseable toy in pla and a joint snapped under pressure... Maybe pet g would have been better
![The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqwWs6xCnvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
i print petg on g10(garolite/fiberglass) it sticks down reallly well(you definately cannot take the print off) while hot and it self releases really nice when it cools down
Do you have a link?
@@MTNDEWGANG no, it is the g10 sheet that came with my printer, i just took off the crappy buildTak like sticker on it
@BuildGUY Glass is where it’s at boii
@BuildGUY I've used picture frame glass from goodwill for years. Its cheap and works well. Just got a new printer with fancy flexible magnetic bed coated with pei. I feel spoiled now! Its nice not having to get stuck prints off with a razor blade. Though glass gives the absolute best bottom finish!
@@GMCLabsI agree, but I use a glass mirror. Really flat and the darkened rear of the mirror really seems to transfer the heat really well.
I used to use PETG for almost everything, until I recently started using ABS. If you are printing a transparent PETG, there is something that you want to be aware of. PET & PETG will crystalize when they get too hot, or if they are heated for to long, thus you need to ensure that the filament is constantly moving. The glycol modifier in PETG slows this process a bit, but you still need to be wary of it. For your print, it means the difference between a cloudy print and a beautifully transparent print.
I saw that some people were having layer adhesion issues, which is most likely caused by, 1) Hot end is not hot enough, or 2) Bad or wet filament. Wet filament will also cloud transparent PETG filaments with microscopic steam explosions. PETG is extremely sticky, especially to itself (which is why it strings so well), so there should never be any layer adhesion issues.
all of theseare common sense
ASA is also worth considering. It is very similar to ABS, has same temperature resistance properties, but also warps less, emits less odor while printing and is UV resistant.
I agre with ozren asa has all the benefits of abs, just with slightly less fumes and is designed for outdoors in heat and with uv resistance.
As asa exists it makes me wonder about why abs is used at all..
Isn't it nice when a discussion about PETG turns into an inaccurate and incomplete discussion about ASA? AMAZING!
@@paulradford4100 good question.. is ABS more abundant, easier to obtain by recycling, and inexpensive or something?
I definitely had issues with PETG being attracted to copper and its tendency to curl back onto the nozzle. A steel nozzle fixes that issue completely. For me, this was the cause of a major hot blob in one of my early overnight prints and was always causing minor first layer adhesion issues. But ever since moving away from copper/brass things have been perfect.
I have just got a roll of petg. Ive had a steel nozzle for some time and never needed it. If i have issues i will try that. Thanks for the info ✌💚🌞
By coincidence, I have my very first spool of PETG arriving today. I thought it was time to expand beyond PLA, so this video was very timely. Thank you for it. 👍
I have ordered my first spool and I'm nervous but also excited to try something new. Still a Newbie only had my Ender 3 v3 se for a month and a half.
@@hippysplace - I had no trouble printing with it. I was worried for nothing. You probably are as well. Although my X1C maintains a warm chamber temp within the enclosure, if that makes any difference.
@@davidsh331x my spool won't be here till next week. but its good to hear you had no problems
Super helpful! I recently had a complex PLA mechanism warp to the point of uselessness because I left it in a warm car, so I can't wait to get my Prusa and start printing again in PETG
LOL, this would have been a good video for me 4 months ago! I bought a used Anycubic Mega Pro and without research bought some PETG filament! OMG what a freakin nightmare to get figured out with no prior knowledge of 3D printing! That being said... I finally figured it out and did some successful prints and then made a dehumidifier box and subsequently purchased some Silk PLA. I have since switched back and forth between filament types and have had success with all of them along with some failures! Good video!
Nice guide, one point I'd add from my experience, PETG tends to warp much more than PLA, especially when you print large surfaces on the bed (common with functional parts). I've found that printing under an enclosure solve this issue much better than using glue or toying around with temperatures and layer height.
I run my plate at 85 (for Prusament, even 90) and that has worked out very well for me. Sticks down very well, releases easily. Perhaps that 70 degree setting contributed to the warping... this material does like warmth. :p
I am also at 90 on bare aluminum, with a dissolved hairspray coating.
I really hope you have a whole series on all the different material types just like this video. This was great
I've found that while printing with petg in recent times with an ender 5 plus that the filament "sticking" to the copper extruder only seems to occur when the temperature it prints at is too low. Additionally, I've found more success printing fine parts at a speed of 40mm/s than the stock 80 that the ender 5 plus uses.
This video is so well-timed for me. I've been printing with Inland PLA+ forever and decided to try PETG; bought some yesterday at Micro Center. Wish me luck
Pay attention to temperature and bed sheet, also, run a cold pull, or make sure your nozzle is not clogged.
Dang we’re the same, currently use inland pla+ and going tomorrow to buy petg
@@johnnycastor8634 pla+ is amazing and ive never had any issues. the PETG is definitely more challenging to print properly but i've gotten a couple nice things out of it (like a new fan shroud for the hot end)
Thank you for putting this together! I wish I could upload a before and after picture of my printing results. Incredible improvement!
This has been the best knowledge and we'll said video about PETG I'm just learning now about because I accidentally bought. Learning a lot from this video. Very well said thank you so very much. I follow this guy he speaks correctly when explaining
First thing anyone should do, especially with a new roll of filament, is to not only dehydrate for a couple of hours, but print a temp tower. This will help you immensely with any filament. I do this religiously and haven't had a failed print in a while now. Also, you need to do some fast prints to see about stringing. The just adjust your retraction distance first, if tha helps some but not a lot, adjust your retraction speed.
Good video! With my PEI smooth plate I spray it down with windex first and have no issues with removal. I just let the plate cool completely before removing the print.
It's handy to have some qtips around to wipe the PETG off the nozzle. Heat it up to 230c and it will wipe off easily. You can heat up to around 120c and use a fine tip tweezer to pull the PETG globs off the nozzle before wiping.
I usually print at 230 - 240c with an 80c bed for the whole print with 25% fan speed with a dual 4010 blower setup and a microswiss clone from trianglelab. I find that dropping the bed temp down to 70c after the 3rd layer in a room with an ambient temperature of 65f will most likely lead to layer lifting from the bed. Drying the filament as mentioned is very important. Even if you leave it in an "airtight" box with desiccant over a few months, it will still exhibit blobs and layer adhesion issues. Probably best to store all unused rolls in a vacuum bag with dessicant.
I'm just getting started with FDM and specifically PTEG for a prototype. Thank you for a very comprehensive video. Very helpful tips and cautions.
One other thing I can confirm, sock or no, PETG DOES PENETRATE BENEATH the sock, I've found that having my sock off rather than on is a bonus as I am able to clean off the heater block and nozzle, I've just recalibrated my PID settings. I use and have been using a 50-50 mix of wood glue and water (Glass Build Plate), I have tried a lot of different products to use for bed adhesion / release all have worked or not, but the wood glue water mix has come in the most cost effective than any of the others. Not only that, but it is water soluble and once done just washes right off. Thanks for the good content and insight.
I've been printing some nice translucent PETG, no issues at all. Well, other than one spool where the filament got criss-crossed a la Nero since I'm an idiot, but that was on me! It is a "weepier" material, but I found the sweet spot for my stuff at 230C. It also helps if your extrusion is really dialed in well, that's important. Do your wall tests, measure with calipers, etc.
No Nickel plated nozzle is probably exactly what has been my problem. Thanks for mentioning it.
Good vid, thanks! I am printing PETG on my third ever print, looking good thanks to your tips.
Brims are typically excessive and unnecessary because they surround the entire model, yet it's usually only corners or small footprint sections that lift.
If you add "mouse ears" to the areas prone to lifting before you slice, it will help with adhesion. It will also save time and filament during the print, and reduce cleanup time after the print. -Compared to a full brim.
Cura 4.13 has a plugin called anti-warp tabs (I think) that does exactly what you want. That plugin hasn't been released for 5.0, yet.
I mostly print in PETG and didn't know about the nickel plated nozzle idea. Thanks!
0:22 My second material is TPU. It seems to have the advantages of impact resistance and toughness but can be printed at lower temperatures than PETG with a stock hotend with a PTFE tube. So far I have been happy with PLA and TPU. Don't know why I'd move to PETG.
Ty for this vid! I am just now starting to do petg . What perfect timing !
Excellent. thank you for making this video. I was having problems with the PETG not sticking. Turmed up the temps and the print is coming out very nicely. Thank You.
Great vid mate. Everything I need to know to make me realise I'm doing everything wrong! Haha.
I just bought a printer first time user I plan on using PETG only you are most helpful
After finally getting my Prusa textured plate to actually stick to Petg, I haven’t looked at pla since. I’ve found that the Prusament PETG setting works best for non-Prusa filament. I also use glue stick, but only to “season” the plate by drawing the stick around the edges and a big X from corner to corner. Then I coat the bed in IPA, then with paper towel, rub the glue/ipa into a very thin slurry and let it dry. This usually lasts me weeks and I’ve had perfect first layers that cover the entire bed. PETG just feels better to the touch and I have high confidence in the durability to my parts.
I've had difficulties with PETG sticking to the textured bed of my Mk3s+. I'll try your suggestion. Thank you!!
@@larrydelceg2406, another tip, choose the Prusament PETG profile for all PETG. It prints a bit hotter and I’ve had great luck with non-Prusament filaments.
You hit a couple of points that are critical. Dry filament is a must, higher temps tend to work better and your print surface should have a coating to keep it from pulling off when the print is removed. I use glass and have had many chunks come off with the print.
it pulled chunks of glass off?? wow
Ok I had a part in a model train got too hot and warp. I needed to try PETG for the part for better heat resistance. My print started out ok but started pushing out nurds or crumbs. I went hotter and slower that helps but the print time went from 2 hours to 4 hours. Not have to print another part after some edits in the design. I read some papers and listened to lectures like yours. I never had a print look like yours they were beautiful. I hope to get there soon. My parts are for model trains. The guys hate to sand and paint. Thank You, Dennis
I print almost exclusively in PETG on my Anycubic I3Mega with V5 all metal hotend. I always print with a brim and sometimes even a raft because my biggest problem with PETG has always been poor bed adhesion. Anycubic uses their proprietary “ultra base” and it works great for PLA but I’ve had trouble with PETG. I use a nozzle temp of 240, any higher and the prints seem to melt at small finer points even with my cooling fan running. Bed temps are usually at 70, any higher and the painters tape I often use will pull from the bed when the print warps. I even use glue stick sometimes with prints that have a lot of surface area on the print surface to keep the PETG from permanently bonding to the tape. It’s a pain to remove when this happens. I love the material for my typical application (functional motorcycle parts) but I do not love it’s printing properties.
I found a trick for adhesion randomly online and it is to use very salty water and lightly wipe it on the print surface after it is heated and it fixed my adhesion issue along with a brim.
I've been printing for about a year and a half. My second type of filament was actually ASA, and it's still my second most common after PLA. For when I need heat-resistance and/or weather-resistance. PETG strikes me as a half-measure. I almost only ever use it when I want something transparent, as I rarely need improved impact-resistance. Similar goes for TPU. On that note, I've been meaning to try printing HIPS. Not for high impact, but for minis. I've been avoiding ABS like the plague, but given how vehemently the Voron team advises to use it for their machines, I guess I'll have to take the plunge later this year. PC and PA are on my bucket list, but I haven't had a need yet, thus yet to buy.
PC is hard to print in my experience, lots of warping and very high adhesion. Good luck!
I was very curious about the vacuum device and the storage bag. Could you give any tips on where to find them to buy? Thank you very much and congratulations for the always excellent content!
HA! Perfect timing,It's my first time today. Printing on the Anycubic Vyper. I did just change to a bimetal/all-metal heatbreak. After reading up on all-metal settings, I dialed it in and prints are looking good. 👍
Just the video I was looking for, I'm just starting to learn Petg, thank you. Great video, keep up the great work.
I love your Videos. I know this is a long post but I think there is some good info. You cover all the issues I had to learn on my own. Suchas as the following. I print with PETG as my goto filament. I found 240c - 245c to be the sweet spot. I also found that PETG either sticks to the bet to well of net enough. I found that if you dial in the bed temp precisely than I can get PETG to stick. And I can remove it with out damage to my build service. I found around 60c worked for me. Although I can remove PETG without damage I can just pop the parts off the flex plate by bending it. Some times I can gently twist the part off; sometimes I have to pry the part off. Adjusting the Temp (+-) 1 to 2 degrees c makes a big difference. I have uses Buldtack sheet. I now use Garolite. I think Garolite would well and it is sandal. so if Alcohol does clear the sheet then you can lightly sand it. I found that a Glass bed but does not get hot enough. On my two printer the Heaqted Bed is low by at least 20-40c. I just tried placing my Aluminum BuildTak spring sheet with Garolite top sheet directly on the Ender 3 Max Aluminum Bed. Aluminum to Aluminum. And the Temp is off only about (+-) 5c. Of course as with any Heated bed the outer sides of the bed are not going to get as hot as the Center where the actual Heater is located. I found that if a print fails and I only printed 1 or 2 layers then it is very hard to get PETG off. PETG need at least a few layers for it to be easier to remove. Lastly, I found that finding a good Manufacture of PETG is very important. I want PETG to really flow well. A lot of PETG filament just will not nelt well and there fore will partially clog my print head. Enough to have the filament under extrude a lot. I would rather deal with stringing. I found that trying to up the temperature on PETG to get it to melt better just does not help. I used to use Amazon BASIC PETG a few years ago then Amazon discontinued it. BUMMER!! that filament melted really well. I now use MatterHacker MH Build Series PETG. That would pretty well but not as good as the Amazon BASIC PETG. Also, I printed with eSUN Translucent Orange which worked pretty well on my TEVO TORNADO with an E3D Gold Edition hot end. Neither of the above filaments work well on my Ender 3 Max with a Microswiss hot end. But I think I have other issues with the Ender Printer.
I am using PETG as I like to make more functional things. I can confirm that with Prusa, it is just no problem at all. I have Mini+, using Gembird material and printing with generic PETG profile from the slicer.
Thank you for this. My mk2s is 6 years old and the parts are brittle. So now I'm printing my second time with PETG and trying to find the best settings. Imma try what you suggested. I too and using the prusa slicer. I have ESUN PETG just opened (but about same age as printer) and I'm using the prusament PETG filament settings to start before I modified everything per your video. - John
I love printing with petg. I'm using a flashforge creator pro 2, at 235c and a bed temp of 70c. This has been working really well for me. Also printing at a slower speed, and leaving the cooling off for the first couple of layers. At 240c I had some issues, but after some tweaking and dialing back the hot end temp they have been flawless. Thanks for the info. Cheers.
How slow would you print for PETG?
I much prefer to print PETG. I started out printing it, because I needed functional parts. A Prusa i3 with the textured plate, Prusaslicer and a decent PETG roll (Prusament, but I've had luck with other brands as well) and you get great parts. It's even more quiet than printing PLA because the fans don't have to run at a gazillion rpm to cool it. PETG rocks. The textured plate from Prusa is so good for htis too, scrub with 99% isopropyl, print, let it sit and cool; as the print plate cools and shrinks, the part gives up some ticking noises and when the plate is cool, you can basically just lift the part off. A great experience all round on a stock Prusa.
My favorite filament to print with by far
I have lifting on the corners of just about every PETG print (several different brands) on my Ender 3 Pro printer. I've tried adjusting nozzle and bed temperatures, varied fan speed from 0 to 100%, varied print speed, and adjusted other slicer (Cura) settings to no avail. This happens regardless of print surface (i.e., the Creality stock buildTag, glass with coating, smooth PEI). The first layer goes down without problems, but by the time the print's done, warping always happens and the corners lift. Using a brim (or brim on the corners using the Cura TabAntiWarping plugin) helps, but I've had prints where part of the brim lifted off slightly with the print at the corners. Parts of the print other than the corners stick to the build surface very well.
Since this is happening all the time, something obvious may be causing this, but I'm just not seeing it. Do you have any suggestions of what else to try?
Haven't tried nearly as many things as you, but same experience. I will try no fan on first 3 layers as recommended here, but so far every single PETG part has warped slightly on the bottom, about 1mm up for about 3cm along the bed.
Started out with PETG, tried a tiny bit of PLA now I am printing mainly with ASA. Using a Qidi i-mates since last September.
if you are getting plastic on the walls of the plastic its due to either the nozzle is scraping the previous layer or retractions that cause strings to build up on the nozzle walls. both is easy to fix on these direct drive extruders.
the "barrier" is called a release agent ;)
Interesting bit about the hot end. I started printing petg as my first filament even before pla, i have printed a ton of petg car parts with stock ender 3, i always ran the nozzle at 235°C. I have never had a problem with the bowden melting but i might have just gotten lucky. I didnt know it could produce toxic fumes.
I think the toxic fumes was about the PTFE-tube inside the Nozzle-thingy, if that would get over 250°C .. PETG itself is as far as I know not toxic??
Great video. I dont use the part cooling fan except for overhangs.
Not happy with my PETG printing. Much better when in dehydrator over nite at 140F. I had lots of problems with infill stringing. Also problems with printing parts with fine detail like unrecognizable small raised letters. I used 235/80 with low print speeds (50/20mm). Printed same part in PLA+ with excellent results. Today I do my first ABS and doing same part for comparison. Your videos are very valuable to me. Thank you for sharing, Doug
The "PETG" you have at 1:44 is phenylethyl thiogalactoside, not polyethylene terepthalate glycol. You usually don't see sulfur in 3D filament.
Excellent video, lots of information for printing with PETG. Thanks!!!
thanks.. I need to fix a baby tray table and have been thinking about trying to use PETG...
I print with PETG a lot and it’s always flawless on my Prusa mk3s. I’ve printed about 10kg of it over a couple of months and it’s been a breeze.
Can I ask what brand u use?
I was having so many problems with petg out of nowhere like it worked well for a while then just wouldn't retract right and the parts were just so messy. Finally I dried it for like 10 hours and it printed FLAWLESSLY like I couldn't believe how perfect it came out. I didn't think moisture was the problem because it happened with a new roll, but I realized they were shipping them with moisture in them. So even the stuff you get new, I recommend drying it for at least 5 or 6 hours, or 10+ if you really want to play it safe.
Great video... subscribed.
For PETG cold pull (3 times) solved my problem with a Mini+
Thing you need to remember is the bed. The bed sheet for PETG is that textured one and that is it. Don't try to use other bed, or the smooth one. Also, the measures for the textured are different, it's thinner instead of thicker....
I learned the hard way, and also after I forgot to change the bed sheets.
Excellent info. I really wanted to like PETG for my functional parts but ended up hating it. That stringing, argh. However, I've recently upgraded my two printers to dual gear so I might give PETG another try. Thanks!
I consider myself a novice printer, I've converted over to PETG from PLA. I print on a metal plate, and I use a standard school glue stick as an adhesive. I use generic PETG filament, and print it at 235°C - 240°C, with the bed staying at 100°C with relative ease.
I'm new and went right to PETG but over a month of frustration had me putting it away until I get a dryer. That's the only thing I haven't ruled out.
Great Video! Thank you so much for all the Great tips and tricks
Would you recommend a 3D printer coming with an enclosure like the Ender-6 or instead make an DIY enclosure and focus on another 3D printer not coming with enclosure? Print volume of at least 250x250x400mm is needed. Carbon filled PETG and ASA will be printed for functional parts, thus needing full metal hot end and a wear nozzle.
Cant wait for you to run an X1 carbon and give some setup instruction and use tips etc. Love your work
I have printed probably 50lbs of petg in the last couple months . All metal hot end with direct drive helps. Also glass build plate with layerneer bedweld The parts pop off when it cools. I used school glue ect before and it’s just more work.
Thanks for the very informative video. I am new to the 3D printing and found your video worth subscribing. 😊
Bout to unbox my first ever 3D printer. It’s a Prusa MK4 and I’m very excited. Could use all the newbie tips do’s and don’ts 🤣Would appreciate it very much..
I dry my PETG rolls using an old Amazon Cardbord box ontop of my heatbed, heating to 50deg C, small vents on bottom and top to get fresh air in that can heat up and dry.
Your video is very informative and right to the point !!
Great tips, the prints at the end of the video look fantastic. Stringing can be dialed in with the right (lower) temperature and the correct retraction speed and amount. I found the main problem with PETG is "blobbing", drying the filament will help a lot. I will try a nickel coated nozzle like you suggest. There is also PETG pro which should print better/easier
I've been 3D printing since there were no consumer/hobbyist machines and the only way to 3D print was to build your own 3D printer, but I'm very late to PETG. I just tried my first PETG print. It would have worked very well in PLA or TPU but the first layer failed when the print was around 5 mm tall. I was printing on a new PEI sheet with excellent bed leveling and Z offset. I guess I'll try a glue stick (meh) and a brim. Or maybe I'll reslice the part for PLA.
I have grown to prefer PETG over PLA I"ve got it dialed in pretty well now. It just always has a nice gloss and texture to it. I"m currently printing some enclosure parts so I can start with ASA in near future. Wanna build a corexy machine, my buddy told me I would use my printer to print a printer... I laughed ... no longer laughing. Seems like I print more upgrades than other items some days.
I basically never use PLA. I jumped right into PETG on my Prusa MINI and it's been amazing. I'm working on upgrading to an enclosure so I can do ASA next :D
I found that stringing is greatly reduced at 230 deg C. And I have also best results at 60mm/s speed. But it does weird stuff when you need to support it. Still have to figure that out.
I always print my work on a raft first, small amount of waste but you get a sharp base and no warping
Another good tip is if you have a bed leveler to slap a glass plate down on top your normal printing surface, put some stick glue down and print away!
Great job, thanks for posting.
I find if your having stringing issues with petg make the retraction speed quick but it doesn’t have to be far it seems to almost snap instead of string, works for me Atleast
Funny thing is, the 1st roll of petg i had, pissed me off so much I jumped to PC,nylon, and my favorite CF-nylon. With PETG my print would get halfway done and the nozzle would just clog up. Recently I got a new printer and decided to give petg another chance and got a few new rolls. Much better now, i must have got a bunk roll the 1st time. Still when I need something tuff as nails, I go with carbonx cf-pa, though I really like Priline and esun cf-pa a little better for its surface finish plus the filiment is alot less brittle than carbon x.
I have a flash forge adventure 4 . I use the .6 mm dia nozzle , 80 c bed temp and no skirt or brim. The issu3 is stringing and blobs that occur randomly . This has a Bowden tube so I was wondering it retraction settings should be longer and faster . The 5 mm length and speed at 50 is not working
You're mistaken about the Creality Ender 3. The PTFE tube, doesn't reach the hot zone in the Ender 3 hot end. The throat is narrower in the end of the cold zone, just around the edge of the heat sink. I print A LOT of PETG in my Ender 3 Pro for at least a year now, and I have no PTFE melting at all.
It goes all the way to the nozzle. Unless you don’t have an Ender 3. ua-cam.com/video/Fb4XMbZ0iA4/v-deo.html
The main food safe usage I have of FDM PETG prints is shot glasses 😁
Awesome video, subscribed! Have you ever printed anything resembling the cask (hard part of a hard-toe boot) before?
Does PETG creep much? Is it worth printing printer upgrades in ABS instead because of it?
I does creep yes
14:55 Thats a gap fill line. Its white but it definitely gets filled.
I have had trouble with overhangs warping upward with petg. It seems to stay soft longer than nGen. Its flexibility causes problems with tall skinny parts flopping around as it prints. In spite of being much more flexible, it seems to be just as brittle as nGen.
Hi great videos
Ive been using PETG for a few years , and now trying it on a modix big 60 with a 1.0mm nozzle, omg what a pain
Any settings ideas
Thanks dean
Great video and informations. Thank you.
Thanks for your video. I've just ordered Prusa mk3s instead of my FlashForge Adventurer 3, because it supports more than PLA and ABS. I'm gonna think 5 times before I buy PETG because it's problems with moisture. And I was shocked when you showed vacuum package for PETG spool. Not convenient material... I want to find something also cheap like PLA but more heat resistant than PLA. Probably in my dreams... 😞
Caveat, I'm a noob.
My first 3 reels were PLA... results? not bad
4th reel - ABS, much better looking and durability than the PLA
5th reel - even much better looking than the ABS, but.... adhering to my glass bed seems to be an issue, as I get prints starting to curl up during the print.
all this is maddening with the learning curve... but I persist .
If you adjust your temperature on the smooth pei you can still print petg well. Though maybe I'm spoiled using the PEX plate from Wham Bam.
PETG Overature or Tpomins(?) I think thats how you spell it. Ender 5 pro, temp 230-235, bed 75-80, Hictop PEI rough mag bed, dryer box...works pretty good. I did however change the board and it threw everything out of whack. working on recalibrating currenly.
I bought my 3D printer for its purpose. Rapid prototiping for injecton molding. I have know that my finale ptoduct will be PTGE so it was only logucal to use PTGE for prototiping. To this day I have only used PTGE for printing
Of course I started my 3d printing using pla as many do/have, but to be honest I don't really like pla that much for being more brittle and temperature sensitive. Because of this I have mostly moved away from pla to petg, only using pla for show models (which I don't do much of) or prototyping. Even then I wonder if it's worth it as I'm already set for petg..
Setting up settings for petg is a little more complicated than for pla and is a little of a learning curve, but once settings are turned petg is actually quite easy to work with - even without an enclosure. Settings do have to be tuned though if you want good prints.. Also, less is more with petg as far as fans go and certainly would not go above 50% - lower fan speeds give much better layer adhesion..
As for print speed I tend to run at slightly lower speed all the time (not just because I have direct drive), I find printing at lower speeds give much better quality. As mentioned, I do have direct drive and would recommend this for petg for retractions, though it's not 100% necessary.
I do recommend using all metal hotend and especially the Micro Swiss on ender 3 type machines. I recommend this for all filament types including pla. Removing the bowden from the hotend is only a good thing as far as health is concerned.
Flex - such as tpu uses similar bed nozzle clearance as petg and was my second filament before petg. Again though not 100% necessary direct drive is handy for flex, moreso than petg purely because of the flex.
As for outdoors stuff I would say either petg or asa. Asa being slightly better for things that will be in sunlight. While you.may get away with it, asa really needs an enclosure as abs.
In this day and age, with all the materials giving performance, I would actually advise against abs - I just don't see much point in it other than practicing you gas mask skills..
Printing intricate parts with PETG for me has been a big challenge. I can't seem to stop the slight oozing that gathers at random parts of the outer walls of my prints. I've reduced flow rate but then I get under extrusion on flat areas. I like the challenge but my results on small detail parts pale in comparison to the prints I get with PLA.
i read somewhere that there called “zits” and are due to the “seam” being set to random. From what I remember reading if you set the seam to linear (or the like) you’ll have a straight row of zits instead of a spread. From there you can even set it inside the structure itself so it’s not visible. I’d google about seams. Could be wrong tho.!
@@ztm_oruam Coasting is also a nice help here.
I have had PLA get really brittle as it takes on water. I had some get so bad that it would break during the print.
PLA typically absorbs moisture at an extremely slow rate, and it does become extremely brittle when it reaches a certain point. I have also found that it is extremely difficult to dry out. I actually tried drying out a small spool for up to 5 days at 55C. After 2-3 days it wasn’t nearly as brittle, but even after 5 days of drying it was still brittle enough to break after 1 or 2 bends, so I don’t even bother trying to dry PLA.
I’ve heard that using a freeze drying method does work, but the cost of electricity and time is significantly greater than purchasing a fresh spool. PETG on the other hand, dries very easily.
very interesting video :D thanks!
I really should move to PETG from the usual PLA for "mechanical" parts
I'm kind of struggling with adhesion to my glass plate. What's the overall mindset with temps and adhesion? How liquid do I want the material to remain once deposited on the bed and for how long? Do I want it to be deposited in an extremely liquid state and slowly cooled to the bed temp, or do I want it to cool quickly? Do I want the bed temp to be as close to the print temp as possible. If my bed is at 70, and I'm not getting good adhesion, do I want to raise or lower the printing temp?
I’ve been messing around with it for the last couple weeks and I’ve got some really interesting results regarding temperature and translucency relationships. It seems the higher the temp, the more “glossy” the surface becomes. I’m not completely sure, but my thought is that the glycol really “shines” at higher the higher temps. This also confirmed when I print with the Amolen color translucent filament. At around 230c I can get an opaque haze through the layers, but around +245-250c the finish really becomes almost as glass. But along with that, they do seem to become more brittle as well, losing some of that sweet glycol ductility. 🤷🏼♂️
Any plastics engineers in here?
Great Vid!
I'm having a heck of a time getting infill to work with PETG. Walls are fine, infill is a clumpy, stringy mess.
I did it! Thanks dude :)
After watching i will definately be getting an all metal hotend...being eyeballing the microswiss anyway for direct drive
Maybe you can do a fresh ASA printing tutorial on an Ender 5 with a full MicroSwiss setup?
I'm a week into 3D printing I started with petg on an ender 3 I warped the middle of the bed the printer comes with so now I can only use the corners but I recently got a creality glass bed which is perfect I just printed my son the Lucky 13 poseable toy in pla and a joint snapped under pressure... Maybe pet g would have been better