Buy fuel stabilizer here---- amzn.to/2A3FtnT Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
I put Stabil fuel stabilizer and Lucas fuel cleaner in every can according to directions when I fill them. Stabilizer is cheap enough so I use it year round. I fill my mowers with whatever gas is left and put them away. I have been doing this for 20 years and never an issue.
I use the run dry method, but I use non-ethonal and add some Marvel's Mystery Oil to that final tank. I figure it coats all the parts and helps prevent deterioration.. great video!
Steve...exercise your equipment in the "north" ? It's snowy and downright cold below freezing. Do you winterize the pressure washer engine first...then work on the pump/hose last
Steve, over the years I began using Sta-Bil on every fill up of my gas cans. The rule of thumb was the end of season is a variable. This way my equipment in theory is ready to be stored at any point. I generally top off the fuel tank and put it away. I do this for my 2 & 4 stroke equipment. I have yet to experience an issue starting any piece up when it comes time to use it again. I know the length of time varies on how long stabilizer will keep the fuel good. I buy the Red and it says up to 2 years of storage. Something I would never push to the limit. The only piece of equipment that might sit that long is my portable generator and that I exercise about every 3 months and drain the tank annually and refill with fresh fuel. So far this system has worked well for me for over twenty+ years. One of the biggest problems that lead me to this method was on a snowblower that had a fuel tank cutoff and petcock on the carburetor bowl. I with turn off the fuel tank, run the unit until it exhausted what remained in the carburetor and drain the remaining drops via the petcock. After doing that for many years I experienced an issue one winter and had to pull the carburetor off. I was shocked at the condition of the bowl. It was pitted and crusted 😬. I posted the issue on one of the Honda forums and got one reply I found interesting. With the ethanol in the fuel was remained in the carburetor could attract moist air into the carburetor. I am sure it took many years of doing this for it to get that bad. I replaced the bowl and have never shut off the fuel system since. No air, no corrosion 👍. The snowblower has started on the first pull when taken out of storage without fail. I am curious to here your thoughts? I wish you all the best for this Holiday Season and thanks you for all the great videos and content!
I have a station near me with 90 octane non-ethanol gas. I use that all the time and run the mowers once a month during the off season. I wish Steve had talked about non-ethanol gas.
just an fyi to pass along. I use a marine gas primer bulb with clear hose\tubing on either side to syphon gas from whatever. The bulbs i found were at a Home Hardware store. You know the ones...used from a boat gas tank that feeds to a motor. Saves your mouth and lungs a lot of damage. Depending on your hose size it might take a bit to syphon but worth doing it safely.
I just saw the carb bowel and the corrosion in it. I use to use ethanol gas on my 4 cyc engines and found out that it contains water which corrodes the bowel. I had a DeVilBiss generator and it quit working. Went to pull off the carb and my finger went through the bowel.
I always use high test gas in small engines, did not use chain saw for two years when hurricane caused trees to fall and blocked driveway, saw started with two pulls and shocked me so much I almost dropped it, worked perfectly
Been running the stabilized gas in my mowers and pressure washer till they run out of gas for 20 years + .Never has failed me yet. Forgot one year on doing that on my snowblower for summer storage and had to rebuild the carb that fall. Never will forget again! ;) Thanks for the video!
Nice tip man, but have you ever heard of "Fogging Oil" for a four stroke engine? If yes, is it necessary to use both STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer and STA-BIL (22001) Fogging Oil?
Hello from Canada too, Steve. Great videos. Some lawn websites say to leave the gas in there with stabilizer all winter, while the Honda manual says to remove it like your video suggests. Any thoughts about this?
I'd classify generators and chainsaws as essential winter equipment because if there's a storm and the power goes out a generator will make things more bearable especially if it's going to be a few days before mains power is restored and chainsaws are needed to cut up fallen trees.
I run my chainsaw, generators and yard equipment once a month year round. I've never had a problem and they start on the first or second pull. Great advice Steve.
What if you clean the jets and carb, tank and line, but still takes six pulls to crank what could be the cranking problem then on a BS. I check the key and clean the area no oil leaking no gas leak just takes around six pulls, but after that it run very well I did have to adjust the choke wire to get to run like it do now?
@@HeyYall398 Long enough to cycle the 1 oz of fuel in the float bowl and fuel lines. Idle for ~10 minutes, for engines at a fixed rpm ex. generators but quicker for scooters that can rev between low and high rpm's. Throttle controlled.
@@MindKontrolleProject Thank you so much! I did it for 5 minutes last winter and will move up to 10 minutes next time. I really appreciate you for taking the time to answer this for me.
2 Questions : 1. Won't I have to hook up all the lines for the pressure washer to exercise it? 2. I ran the mower till it stopped. I would still have to drain the carb bowl right? FYI I unscrewed the bowl and I had fuel come out.
Hey Steve - I'm getting lots of great tips from your site - thanks a lot!! If you've filled the fuel tank with fresh, stabilized gas and then run the equipment for five minutes or so, why not just leave the gas in the tank? I would think that this gas should stay good until spring. Some of my four cycle equipment is a real pain to drain the fuel out of.
I keep a check list on all of my equipment and run it once a month year around unless I'm using it on a regular basis. But because I don't use all my equipment all of the time. So I run my checklist on the 1st day of the month every month.
Really enjoy the videos. My Troy Bilt snowblower is recommended by the manufacturer to stabilize the gas, run it and store with a full tank. I go one step further and buy non-oxygenated gas when storing my 4cycle items.
Please make a video on how to winterize a pressure washer!! Bc it can’t be exercised monthly in the winter when there’s below freezing temps. Thanks!! :)
3:54 I followed that advice over the winter and had no problems starting my lawn tractor this spring. Always made sure the air temp was above 40 degrees F prior to cranking to be safe, given the grade of oil when stored.
Hello Steve if I run my weed trimmer and mower dry threw the winter by doing the steps you explained won't this cause problems with lawn equipment. Like rust or moisture getting into the tank or engine I leave my lawn equipment in a shed in the winter. After I exercise the equipment can I just leave the fuel/ stabilizer in my lawn equipment.
Hi, i put my craftsman mower away five years ago without running it out of gas or any winterizing. It has a briggs and Stratton 7.25 engine, what carb would you recommend for a replacement? I imagine the one on it is junk now. I'd love to hear any ideas you might have. Thanks
Another good idea, for winterization: remove the spark plug and pour a small amount of engine oil through the spark plug hole. While your spark plug is removed, give your engine a few pulls with the starter rope. This will cycle some oil around the piston to help prevent corrosion and a seized piston during storage. Don't forget to reinstall your spark plug afterwards.
Steve, I'm confused, and I may have misunderstood your point. If I add the fuel stabilizer, run for 5 minutes, and then run once a month for 5 minutes. But, the part that confused me was, draining my fuel tank. If I drain my fuel tank, I won't be able to run it once each month thru the winter ? Maybe I misunderstood, or I'm confused. I enjoy your video's. Thank you, John
We used turkey basters to siphon the fuel out when I worked in a small engine shop. The basters tend to degrade quickly but they're cheap to replace. I recently heard about running pure 2 cycle oil through the carbs upon winterization (after running all the fuel out of it) on 2 stroke engines in order to store them for years..I don't suppose it would hurt a 4 cycle engine to store it with 2 cycle oil coating everything...just a little smoky on start up. I have had fuel shutoff valve gaskets dry out and leak the following year if you run all the fuel out of the line on an Ariens snowblower. I wonder if a coating of oil would prevent that also.
What are your thoughts on putting automatic transmission fluid in the fuel lines and carburetor for long term storage? I've heard of it recommended for small engines. Thanks.
Hey Steve! For preventative maintenance, how often would a homeowner need to service / clean their carburetors on 2 and 4 strokes? Nothings worse than trying to get a job done on the weekend before a party and the machine dies! Just thought if you took care of it in advance you could avoid that. Thanks!
Hi Steve. Regarding pressure washers. Should I put conditioner in the pump? Can you exercise the unit by running without water going through the pump? Cheers pal.
I've recently stumbled across your videos and have subscribed. My small engine collection is growing, and seeing common sense ways to take care of them is very helpful. My question, is how do you go about exercising your power washer in the deep winter months?! You can't run it dry, so that means digging out the hoses, etc. I think I'll just keep that one dry and put fuel in it only when needed. Btw, I use RV antifreeze in my power washer pump when in storage. Thanks for the videos and enjoy those beers!
What an awesome, intelligent question! In the frozen months it might not be possible to exercise a pressure washer! I think I would just store it with an overdose of Sta-bil and fill the tank right full to avoid condensation. Should be fine until the hoses thaw out....
Steve, thanks for publishing so many high quality videos. You've helped me get my secondhand small engine equipment back in top shape now that I own a home. Do you have any info to share about installing fuel shut-offs in the line? Cheers
Steve I got a question, but first I’ll explain why I’m asking. I see so many videos about pressure washers not starting because the carburetor is dirty. So my question is, is it safe to add a fuel filter to a pressure washer that doesn’t come with a inline fuel filter? Can’t it hurt or starve the engine?
I run with stabilized fuel all season and still run the tank dry before I store it. "Hank's Garage" says that running the tank dry can "cause problems" but he refuses to specify what those problems are - I've asked in the Comments on a few videos where he says that and he never responds. I've never had a problem, since the 1970s and with four different mowers . . . but proceed at your own risk, I guess. :-)
I don’t know if this is OK to do, but Project Farm did some extensive comparisons on various stabilizers. Only caution: he used 1oz of water as a test, which is probably 30X-60X what most stabilizers are engineered to dispel.
Be it right or wrong, I generally completely drain the tank and float bowl and leave no gas at all, I sometimes drain the oil the same way. What is your opinion on my method?
I run the gas out complpetely and take the drain plug off the float bowl while I do other work to Winterize the mower. However, put fresh oil in right away - don't let it sit all Winter with no oil in it . . . if that's what you're saying.
@@chrisbcritter6112 But is it a good idea to put fresh oil in and let it sit all winter? I mean surely putting the fresh oil in at the start of the season would be better?
I did this with my generator and a little solder point on one of the slip rings broke. I am wondering if while the generator was running out of gas it was shaking a lot and that could have weakened the connection over time. Any thoughts?
Hmm. I always thought it was better to leave the fuel tank full through winter with stabilized fuel after running it. Also, is it better to do my oil change before winter or in the spring?
Storing the engine with a full tank of stabilized fuel is just fine. Off season is about 6 months for me and I've never had a problem. As for changing the oil I think its best to store an engine with clean fresh oil rather than keep used contaminated oil in it that might settle out.
Steve I also put my machines at top dead center and fog the engine with a light oil stable fog. And turn over with the spark plug out. I exercise my two four wheelers and my snowmobile in my storage unit up north and that seems to help. I also run non-ethanol gas.
The issue with running the fuel system dry is that it allows exposure to the air (oxygen) which causes corrosion and especially deterioration of rubber and plastic parts. Stabiizer works best when it's in fuel. Your fuel system is designed to be saturated in fuel. Best practice: fill your tank with pure, engineered, pre-packaged fuel and run it for a few minutes to get that fuel throughout the system. Then you are good for months and months. No need to "exercise," no need to run dry, just fill it, run it and forget it 'til you're ready to use it again. Period. During the season, I use non-ethanol fuel and stabilize it out the wazoo as soon as it comes out of the pump. Every fill up - the same way. Then for good measure, run a tank of engineered fuel every so often to help clean out the system. Unfortunately, fuel from the pump is a variable - it can have water in it, sediment, etc. - just depends on the station and the condition of their tanks.
Steve good advice But....shouldn't folks also warm the engine up then drain and replace the engine oil with fresh oil? I always do this each fall before putting the lawnmower in storage. I also add a really great product made by MDR called Crankcase Stor-N-Start to the new oil and run the mower for at least five minutes until it runs out of gas. Stor-N-Start was developed for the military for use in engines stored over lengthy periods of time such as equipment only use in emergencies, etc. It is formulated to be extra clingy to metal surfaces and thus protests them from rust and corrosion during storage. This stuff can be tough to find. I buy mine online at Jamestown Distributors a company specializing in boat supplies. Been using it for years and it's great stuff! Also, no need to replace the oil in the spring as Stor-N-Start actually improves lubrication during normal use.
you might even want to put one together to show people what it looks like and it works. I think its obvious but maybe some people don't. food for thought
Hi Steve. General question. When you parallel 2 inverter generators do you get double the power? I've heard you only get about 80% . I have two 2300/1800 running inverters. in parallel should I get 4600/3600? or less. Thanks.
If by "true fiuel" you mean no ethanol added aka e10 aka clear gas? The answer, in my opinion, yes much better! Ethanol is corrosive especially so on rubber, plastic, and fiberglass and will dissolve fuel lines carburetor parts etc. Over time clear gas will become less combustible like ethanol added fuel albeit at a slower rate. What clear gas doesn't do is gum up your fuel delivery system like e -gas. I have a Honda powered pressure washer with clear gas and after sitting for 3yrs it started on the second pull.
He uses canned fuel now. Higher octane, and yet no ethanol, and very low olefin and benzene content (unfortunately, olefins and benzene are a natural by-product of refinement, and as such are impossible to completely remove)
The only downside is this reduces the business of small engine mechanics by about 75% especially in the spring season. Thanks Steve - you makes things so understandable! Like your recent live feed!
I change oil when it gets black. It still has good viscosity, but I really want clean oil. It hasn't failed me yet. I don't know the time frame but I do it at least 3 times in the spring summer and fall regardless of the hours I use the machine (0/30 or 10/30 ideally, but I've used whatever I had around sometimes). .......459 litres. It's not that expensive. I drain the oil from the nut under frame. I also run gas or solvents through the engine for for a few minutes and it cleans the guts of the engine and remaining sludge and deposits (some guys disagree with this proceedure). I've had my 25 year old B&S for ten years and got it for free.It runs perfectly. I must remind myself the take off the bowl at bottom of carb. I also run some 20/1 or more 2 cycle oil through the carb before winter storage. It gets down to -30°F around here in the winter. I change oil and gas regardless in the spring. And I put my brand new lawnmower in my basement's utility room. David Alberta
Hey Steve, thanks for the tips. I’ve been doing this for the past few years with my mower in the winter and snow blower during the summer months though I didn’t use a stabilizer. I use premium fuel on my equipment, does that make a difference for a stabilizer as I saw yours had the word ethanol on the package? Do they make a stabilizer for straight gas? I read that premium is best for this type of equipment. Just got a Husqvarna blower and weed eater so I will definitely be doing your long term storage tips during the winter with those. Thanks again.
You may have answered this below...with running something out of fuel and now the lines should be dry...what is your opinion on the lines dry rotting then?
Help please winterazing the toro mower apply 3 squirts of oil sae 30 in top of cylinder thru the spark plug bore BUT is not a 2 cycle engine is a 4 stroke , how can I fix it Will do any damage to the combustion chamber
Guy buys a pressure sprayer and uses it once. Gets it out after setting through the winter. Discovers the pump housing is cracked most likely because the water left in the pump previously froze, expanded and cracked the pump housing. So what is the best way to winterize a pressure sprayer in a cold climate area?
Of prime importance is finding a source of fuel that has no added ethanol. That stuff will break down and gum up a small-engine carburetor in short order. There is only one place local to me that sells it-a farm-supply co-op-but it was well worth the effort tracking it down. Ask your small-engine or tractor repair shop.
If I've put antifreeze through the water pump on my pressure washer, and my exterior hose lines are drained and shut off, it's not feasible to run the pressure washer in the winter, without blowing the pressure pump. To my knowledge, the water pressure pump needs water running through it, or it could be destroyed. Or am I somehow being misled about the pressure washer pump?
Best practice is to use 1) ethanol free gasoline - available at airports, marine and Countrymark gas stations. 2) use Stabil all year but drain & run small engines completely out of fuel. Take drained gas and add to your car.
Buy fuel stabilizer here---- amzn.to/2A3FtnT
Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
I put Stabil fuel stabilizer and Lucas fuel cleaner in every can according to directions when I fill them. Stabilizer is cheap enough so I use it year round. I fill my mowers with whatever gas is left and put them away. I have been doing this for 20 years and never an issue.
I use the run dry method, but I use non-ethonal and add some Marvel's Mystery Oil to that final tank. I figure it coats all the parts and helps prevent deterioration.. great video!
Steve...exercise your equipment in the "north" ? It's snowy and downright cold below freezing. Do you winterize the pressure washer engine first...then work on the pump/hose last
Steve, over the years I began using Sta-Bil on every fill up of my gas cans. The rule of thumb was the end of season is a variable. This way my equipment in theory is ready to be stored at any point. I generally top off the fuel tank and put it away. I do this for my 2 & 4 stroke equipment. I have yet to experience an issue starting any piece up when it comes time to use it again. I know the length of time varies on how long stabilizer will keep the fuel good. I buy the Red and it says up to 2 years of storage. Something I would never push to the limit. The only piece of equipment that might sit that long is my portable generator and that I exercise about every 3 months and drain the tank annually and refill with fresh fuel. So far this system has worked well for me for over twenty+ years.
One of the biggest problems that lead me to this method was on a snowblower that had a fuel tank cutoff and petcock on the carburetor bowl. I with turn off the fuel tank, run the unit until it exhausted what remained in the carburetor and drain the remaining drops via the petcock. After doing that for many years I experienced an issue one winter and had to pull the carburetor off. I was shocked at the condition of the bowl. It was pitted and crusted 😬. I posted the issue on one of the Honda forums and got one reply I found interesting. With the ethanol in the fuel was remained in the carburetor could attract moist air into the carburetor. I am sure it took many years of doing this for it to get that bad. I replaced the bowl and have never shut off the fuel system since. No air, no corrosion 👍. The snowblower has started on the first pull when taken out of storage without fail.
I am curious to here your thoughts?
I wish you all the best for this Holiday Season and thanks you for all the great videos and content!
I have a station near me with 90 octane non-ethanol gas. I use that all the time and run the mowers once a month during the off season. I wish Steve had talked about non-ethanol gas.
I put tru - fuel in the tank and run the engine long enough to circulate throughout the system. Been doing this for years. No problems period.
just an fyi to pass along. I use a marine gas primer bulb with clear hose\tubing on either side to syphon gas from whatever. The bulbs i found were at a Home Hardware store. You know the ones...used from a boat gas tank that feeds to a motor. Saves your mouth and lungs a lot of damage. Depending on your hose size it might take a bit to syphon but worth doing it safely.
Steve you are the master of tips. Thank you sir
Wow, thanks
I just saw the carb bowel and the corrosion in it. I use to use ethanol gas on my 4 cyc engines and found out that it contains water which corrodes the bowel. I had a DeVilBiss generator and it quit working. Went to pull off the carb and my finger went through the bowel.
I always use high test gas in small engines, did not use chain saw for two years when hurricane caused trees to fall and blocked driveway, saw started with two pulls and shocked me so much I almost dropped it, worked perfectly
Thank you, your youtube videos are a Godsend !!! ... what octane fuel do you recommend for push mowers ???
Been running the stabilized gas in my mowers and pressure washer till they run out of gas for 20 years + .Never has failed me yet. Forgot one year on doing that on my snowblower for summer storage and had to rebuild the carb that fall. Never will forget again! ;) Thanks for the video!
You're Welcome...
You can also put roughly 8-10 oz of fuel in the tank and put a little of stabilizer and carb cleaner. Then run dry.
Lots of great ideas. I will try one for sure Steve! Thanks again from Manitoba!
My pleasure!
Nice tip man, but have you ever heard of "Fogging Oil" for a four stroke engine? If yes, is it necessary to use both STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer and STA-BIL (22001) Fogging Oil?
Hello from Canada too, Steve. Great videos. Some lawn websites say to leave the gas in there with stabilizer all winter, while the Honda manual says to remove it like your video suggests. Any thoughts about this?
I'd classify generators and chainsaws as essential winter equipment because if there's a storm and the power goes out a generator will make things more bearable especially if it's going to be a few days before mains power is restored and chainsaws are needed to cut up fallen trees.
Steve, lucky you. I I don't excersize all my equipment every week, it will not start. 1 month would be a dream period for me here in europe
Thanks Steve from Michael in Australia cheers bro
My pleasure!
Steve, is it better to change oil in riding mower at end of season in autumn, or change in spring at beginning of season? Thanks!!
I run my chainsaw, generators and yard equipment once a month year round. I've never had a problem and they start on the first or second pull. Great advice Steve.
Right on
What if you clean the jets and carb, tank and line, but still takes six pulls to crank what could be the cranking problem then on a BS. I check the key and clean the area no oil leaking no gas leak just takes around six pulls, but after that it run very well I did have to adjust the choke wire to get to run like it do now?
May I know for how long you need to run during winters for once a month? Thank you.
@@HeyYall398 Long enough to cycle the 1 oz of fuel in the float bowl and fuel lines. Idle for ~10 minutes, for engines at a fixed rpm ex. generators but quicker for scooters that can rev between low and high rpm's. Throttle controlled.
@@MindKontrolleProject Thank you so much! I did it for 5 minutes last winter and will move up to 10 minutes next time. I really appreciate you for taking the time to answer this for me.
I've had really good luck using marine grade stabil with ethanol free gas. THANKS Steve your the best, you really help workin folks out. 👍👍💲💲
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
2 Questions :
1. Won't I have to hook up all the lines for the pressure washer to exercise it?
2. I ran the mower till it stopped. I would still have to drain the carb bowl right? FYI I unscrewed the bowl and I had fuel come out.
Hey Steve - I'm getting lots of great tips from your site - thanks a lot!! If you've filled the fuel tank with fresh, stabilized gas and then run the equipment for five minutes or so, why not just leave the gas in the tank? I would think that this gas should stay good until spring. Some of my four cycle equipment is a real pain to drain the fuel out of.
TY Steve, from NJ.. Lots of Problems with my stuff U helped out Greatlyyy ty.. keep it goingn i like watchin
You're Welcome...
I'm glad I live in Auckland,New Zealand where we don't have to worry about subzero temperatures.
Lucky!
I keep a check list on all of my equipment and run it once a month year around unless I'm using it on a regular basis. But because I don't use all my equipment all of the time. So I run my checklist on the 1st day of the month every month.
Thats what I do too, exercise it....
Don't have to do this in central Florida. I go maybe one month or 6 weeks the most and I have to mow again.
Really enjoy the videos. My Troy Bilt snowblower is recommended by the manufacturer to stabilize the gas, run it and store with a full tank. I go one step further and buy non-oxygenated gas when storing my 4cycle items.
Right on Mike...
Please make a video on how to winterize a pressure washer!! Bc it can’t be exercised monthly in the winter when there’s below freezing temps. Thanks!! :)
In my playlist
3:54 I followed that advice over the winter and had no problems starting my lawn tractor this spring. Always made sure the air temp was above 40 degrees F prior to cranking to be safe, given the grade of oil when stored.
Hi Steve, you are wonderful explaining what to do in your video's, thanks!
You're Welcome...
Hello Steve if I run my weed trimmer and mower dry threw the winter by doing the steps you explained won't this cause problems with lawn equipment. Like rust or moisture getting into the tank or engine I leave my lawn equipment in a shed in the winter. After I exercise the equipment can I just leave the fuel/ stabilizer in my lawn equipment.
That was nice of "April" to assist you.
She's AWESOME....
If you run "clear" ethanol free gas it doesn't go bad as fast. Had a quad that sat for 6 years with clear gas and it started up just fine.
Steve on my brother-in-law‘s riding lawnmower I put a gas shut off valve on the fuel line will this help and also putting stable fuel in the gas tank
Also on a pressure washer you should run some of the pump stabilizer through it as well
Great advice. You help me and so many people. Thank you
You're Welcome...
Hi, i put my craftsman mower away five years ago without running it out of gas or any winterizing. It has a briggs and Stratton 7.25 engine, what carb would you recommend for a replacement? I imagine the one on it is junk now. I'd love to hear any ideas you might have. Thanks
Another good idea, for winterization: remove the spark plug and pour a small amount of engine oil through the spark plug hole. While your spark plug is removed, give your engine a few pulls with the starter rope. This will cycle some oil around the piston to help prevent corrosion and a seized piston during storage. Don't forget to reinstall your spark plug afterwards.
Steve, I'm confused, and I may have misunderstood your point.
If I add the fuel stabilizer, run for 5 minutes, and then run once a month for 5 minutes. But, the part that confused me was, draining my fuel tank. If I drain my fuel tank, I won't be able to run it once each month thru the winter ? Maybe I misunderstood, or I'm confused. I enjoy your video's. Thank you, John
We used turkey basters to siphon the fuel out when I worked in a small engine shop. The basters tend to degrade quickly but they're cheap to replace. I recently heard about running pure 2 cycle oil through the carbs upon winterization (after running all the fuel out of it) on 2 stroke engines in order to store them for years..I don't suppose it would hurt a 4 cycle engine to store it with 2 cycle oil coating everything...just a little smoky on start up. I have had fuel shutoff valve gaskets dry out and leak the following year if you run all the fuel out of the line on an Ariens snowblower. I wonder if a coating of oil would prevent that also.
Let it run til it dies.....been doing that since Grandpa told me that circa 1977.....i have never once had a problem with any of my equipment.
What are your thoughts on putting automatic transmission fluid in the fuel lines and carburetor for long term storage? I've heard of it recommended for small engines. Thanks.
Hey Steve! For preventative maintenance, how often would a homeowner need to service / clean their carburetors on 2 and 4 strokes? Nothings worse than trying to get a job done on the weekend before a party and the machine dies! Just thought if you took care of it in advance you could avoid that. Thanks!
Hi Steve. Regarding pressure washers. Should I put conditioner in the pump? Can you exercise the unit by running without water going through the pump? Cheers pal.
I've recently stumbled across your videos and have subscribed. My small engine collection is growing, and seeing common sense ways to take care of them is very helpful. My question, is how do you go about exercising your power washer in the deep winter months?! You can't run it dry, so that means digging out the hoses, etc. I think I'll just keep that one dry and put fuel in it only when needed. Btw, I use RV antifreeze in my power washer pump when in storage. Thanks for the videos and enjoy those beers!
What an awesome, intelligent question! In the frozen months it might not be possible to exercise a pressure washer! I think I would just store it with an overdose of Sta-bil and fill the tank right full to avoid condensation. Should be fine until the hoses thaw out....
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon !×
You rock. God bless you
Thank You...
Steve, thanks for publishing so many high quality videos. You've helped me get my secondhand small engine equipment back in top shape now that I own a home. Do you have any info to share about installing fuel shut-offs in the line? Cheers
Steve I got a question, but first I’ll explain why I’m asking. I see so many videos about pressure washers not starting because the carburetor is dirty.
So my question is, is it safe to add a fuel filter to a pressure washer that doesn’t come with a inline fuel filter?
Can’t it hurt or starve the engine?
The water in the pressure washer will freeze in Monitor's winter. What is you suggestion, since exercising isn't an option here.
I use stabilized fuel year round in my push mower and tractor. Should be good or should I still run the push mower dry?
I run with stabilized fuel all season and still run the tank dry before I store it.
"Hank's Garage" says that running the tank dry can "cause problems" but he refuses to specify what those problems are - I've asked in the Comments on a few videos where he says that and he never responds. I've never had a problem, since the 1970s and with four different mowers . . . but proceed at your own risk, I guess. :-)
What if you use non ethanol fuel... how does that affect the mower?
Love the saw and all the Great tips1111
Right on
Thank you
You're Welcome...
I don’t know if this is OK to do, but Project Farm did some extensive comparisons on various stabilizers. Only caution: he used 1oz of water as a test, which is probably 30X-60X what most stabilizers are engineered to dispel.
Be easier to pull the carb off and store it in your house?
Be it right or wrong, I generally completely drain the tank and float bowl and leave no gas at all, I sometimes drain the oil the same way. What is your opinion on my method?
I run the gas out complpetely and take the drain plug off the float bowl while I do other work to Winterize the mower.
However, put fresh oil in right away - don't let it sit all Winter with no oil in it . . . if that's what you're saying.
@@chrisbcritter6112 But is it a good idea to put fresh oil in and let it sit all winter? I mean surely putting the fresh oil in at the start of the season would be better?
@@kmcca08 I'll be honest. I wouldn't let it sit for long at all without oil.
Hey Steve what if using regular non-ethanol gas do you still run the additives??
I did this with my generator and a little solder point on one of the slip rings broke. I am wondering if while the generator was running out of gas it was shaking a lot and that could have weakened the connection over time. Any thoughts?
Love your videos Steve. Keep it up !!
( and get some CANADIAN beer EH !!)
Thank You...
Can you do a video on why a small engine runs but stall when drive is engaged?
Hmm. I always thought it was better to leave the fuel tank full through winter with stabilized fuel after running it. Also, is it better to do my oil change before winter or in the spring?
Storing the engine with a full tank of stabilized fuel is just fine. Off season is about 6 months for me and I've never had a problem. As for changing the oil I think its best to store an engine with clean fresh oil rather than keep used contaminated oil in it that might settle out.
great information i really learn alot from your videos
Right on..
Steve I also put my machines at top dead center and fog the engine with a light oil stable fog. And turn over with the spark plug out. I exercise my two four wheelers and my snowmobile in my storage unit up north and that seems to help. I also run non-ethanol gas.
Great tips, Thank You...
The issue with running the fuel system dry is that it allows exposure to the air (oxygen) which causes corrosion and especially deterioration of rubber and plastic parts. Stabiizer works best when it's in fuel. Your fuel system is designed to be saturated in fuel. Best practice: fill your tank with pure, engineered, pre-packaged fuel and run it for a few minutes to get that fuel throughout the system. Then you are good for months and months. No need to "exercise," no need to run dry, just fill it, run it and forget it 'til you're ready to use it again. Period. During the season, I use non-ethanol fuel and stabilize it out the wazoo as soon as it comes out of the pump. Every fill up - the same way. Then for good measure, run a tank of engineered fuel every so often to help clean out the system. Unfortunately, fuel from the pump is a variable - it can have water in it, sediment, etc. - just depends on the station and the condition of their tanks.
where do I get engineered fuel. for lawnmower?
@@servejesus4980 Any big box retailer like Lowe’s, Home Depot, TSC, Walmart, and most small hardware stores and auto parts stores carry it.
Steve good advice But....shouldn't folks also warm the engine up then drain and replace the engine oil with fresh oil? I always do this each fall before putting the lawnmower in storage. I also add a really great product made by MDR called Crankcase Stor-N-Start to the new oil and run the mower for at least five minutes until it runs out of gas. Stor-N-Start was developed for the military for use in engines stored over lengthy periods of time such as equipment only use in emergencies, etc. It is formulated to be extra clingy to metal surfaces and thus protests them from rust and corrosion during storage. This stuff can be tough to find. I buy mine online at Jamestown Distributors a company specializing in boat supplies. Been using it for years and it's great stuff! Also, no need to replace the oil in the spring as Stor-N-Start actually improves lubrication during normal use.
Steve good tip as usual, thanks, I was utterly surprised how long leafblower ran with no fuel in tank!
Glad to help
you might even want to put one together to show people what it looks like and it works. I think its obvious but maybe some people don't. food for thought
Hi Steve. General question. When you parallel 2 inverter generators do you get double the power? I've heard you only get about 80% . I have two 2300/1800 running inverters. in parallel should I get 4600/3600? or less. Thanks.
I could use a video on changing oil on small engines. What oil and weight? How often? Learned a lot watching your video
This just hit my feed. 😂
Always attach a fuel cut off system to your gas tools if they don’t have one. It makes it easier to run the tool empty
Good advise
Thank You...
You have a cool man cave
Should the choke stay on or off during storage??
What about “True Fuel”? Is it better than stabilizer?
If by "true fiuel" you mean no ethanol added aka e10 aka clear gas? The answer, in my opinion, yes much better! Ethanol is corrosive especially so on rubber, plastic, and fiberglass and will dissolve fuel lines carburetor parts etc. Over time clear gas will become less combustible like ethanol added fuel albeit at a slower rate. What clear gas doesn't do is gum up your fuel delivery system like e -gas. I have a Honda powered pressure washer with clear gas and after sitting for 3yrs it started on the second pull.
@@moto1p1 It's canned fuel, in which case, it is. Neither regular nor premium are great for winterization.
Do you use higher octane to get less ethanol?
He uses canned fuel now. Higher octane, and yet no ethanol, and very low olefin and benzene content (unfortunately, olefins and benzene are a natural by-product of refinement, and as such are impossible to completely remove)
Thanks for your video very helpful
You're welcome...
The only downside is this reduces the business of small engine mechanics by about 75% especially in the spring season. Thanks Steve - you makes things so understandable! Like your recent live feed!
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Do you need to stabilize non ethanol fuel?
Thanks a lot Steve ! you are going to save me a lot of headaches and money!!Love the content buddy!!!
Happy to help!
my power washer manufacturer says not to run power washer with out running water thru pump. what do I do?
Can I run the engine dry or gas . For winter storage ?
What about the oil in a 4 stroke ?
Steve, how often should I change the oil in my lawn mower and how do you do that?
I change oil when it gets black. It still has good viscosity, but I really want clean oil. It hasn't failed me yet. I don't know the time frame but I do it at least 3 times in the spring summer and fall regardless of the hours I use the machine (0/30 or 10/30 ideally, but I've used whatever I had around sometimes). .......459 litres. It's not that expensive. I drain the oil from the nut under frame. I also run gas or solvents through the engine for for a few minutes and it cleans the guts of the engine and remaining sludge and deposits (some guys disagree with this proceedure). I've had my 25 year old B&S for ten years and got it for free.It runs perfectly. I must remind myself the take off the bowl at bottom of carb. I also run some 20/1 or more 2 cycle oil through the carb before winter storage. It gets down to -30°F around here in the winter. I change oil and gas regardless in the spring. And I put my brand new lawnmower in my basement's utility room.
David
Alberta
Believe it’s roughly every 25 hours or at the beginning of every season is is the usual recommendation
@@davidweum9334 We see -28F or so here in Northern Illinois...I HEAR you.
We did ours for the first time after 5 years.
Hey Steve, thanks for the tips. I’ve been doing this for the past few years with my mower in the winter and snow blower during the summer months though I didn’t use a stabilizer. I use premium fuel on my equipment, does that make a difference for a stabilizer as I saw yours had the word ethanol on the package? Do they make a stabilizer for straight gas? I read that premium is best for this type of equipment. Just got a Husqvarna blower and weed eater so I will definitely be doing your long term storage tips during the winter with those. Thanks again.
Right on
E-10 has a shorter shelf life than ethanol free fuel, so I'm pretty sure that if it works on E-10, it works on ethanol-free fuel.
@@xHadesStamps Thanks
Very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome...
You may have answered this below...with running something out of fuel and now the lines should be dry...what is your opinion on the lines dry rotting then?
Why would they dry rot? New fuel lines are not stored wet.
how about the ATF procedure ?
Steve how do you winterize the Pressure Washer pump in the Winter.
Help please winterazing the toro mower apply 3 squirts of oil sae 30 in top of cylinder thru the spark plug bore
BUT is not a 2 cycle engine is a 4 stroke , how can I fix it
Will do any damage to the combustion chamber
Guy buys a pressure sprayer and uses it once. Gets it out after setting through the winter. Discovers the pump housing is cracked most likely because the water left in the pump previously froze, expanded and cracked the pump housing.
So what is the best way to winterize a pressure sprayer in a cold climate area?
Store it indoors in a warm (above freezing) area and/or run anti-freeze through the pump before putting it up.
Of prime importance is finding a source of fuel that has no added ethanol. That stuff will break down and gum up a small-engine carburetor in short order. There is only one place local to me that sells it-a farm-supply co-op-but it was well worth the effort tracking it down. Ask your small-engine or tractor repair shop.
If I've put antifreeze through the water pump on my pressure washer, and my exterior hose lines are drained and shut off, it's not feasible to run the pressure washer in the winter, without blowing the pressure pump. To my knowledge, the water pressure pump needs water running through it, or it could be destroyed. Or am I somehow being misled about the pressure washer pump?
I have a marine 4 stroke,Simply fill the Atlantic ocean with an appropriate amount of antifreeze to avoid freezing.
I run my equipment every 2-3 weeks for about 10 minutes.
Best practice is to use 1) ethanol free gasoline - available at airports, marine and Countrymark gas stations. 2) use Stabil all year but drain & run small engines completely out of fuel. Take drained gas and add to your car.
I always found disconnecting the fuel line to be easier than holding the mower upside down lol.