How To Winterize A Pressure Washer
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- In this video I show you how to winterize your pressure washer. I will show you how to prepare the engine and the pump for storage.
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Watch how to winterize a lawnmower here;
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SPARK PLUG CONSIDERATION: After spraying storage fluid and rotating engine, move PISTON to TOP DEAD CENTER (closest to plug) to CLOSE VALVES. This assures outside air does NOT enter the chamber, than screw on cleaned plug. I do this for ALL gas engines being put away. great video, thank you.
If everyone did this, the repair shops would be out of business. Excellent tutorial.
This is actually a life saver… I bought a gas powered pressure washer and I use them often enough at work but we store them in a heated building year round and now I have my own and have an unheated shed I was actually mind boggled on what to do, thanks!!
I just picked up a pressure washer and I'll be doing this all step by step here in a few months to maximize the life of my machine!
One of the things I have done with all my small engines is to install a shut off valve in the fuel line. as well as an external in line filter. That way I can put fuel stabilizer in the tank, shut off the valve, and then drain and inspect the carb. It also allows me the run the carb dry after I use it while still connected to the water. Thanks again for another very informative video
Very well explained, smart, quick and easy to do. Thanks for that.
Another excellent informative DonnyBoy video. I unfortunately had a pump failure on an expensive CAT Pump. I have a couple of them in my garage that people discarded because the think everything is a throw away item.
Really cool video. Thanks. I live in South Carolina and we do not have to do this type of stuff. It only gets really cold only a few times in the winter. Most nights are in the 40's or 50's and mid to upper 50's to mid 60's during the day. I still enjoy this type of video.
have a good weekend!
Excellent video Dony as always!
Good advice always like watching your videos good idea on the RV antifreeze looking forward to seeing more videos thank you Donnie
Don, thanks for the tip, bought a can of "Pump Winterizer," with a short burst the water shot out and some foam dribbled out. Gotta take care of my new pressure washer. Love your channel, keep up the good work. Mike from Michigan
ok good
Great information, especially the anti-freeze treatment!
Great video Donny and by the looks of our weather today, just in time!
Great video as always. Thanks Dony!
Thanks for another great 'how-to'. This is on my list for this weekend.
donyboy73 Great Video Don!
I typically just bring my Pressure washer into my basement over the winter.. It's easy if you have a small electric like me.
Thanks so much for your video, very well explained and is one of the best...
Splendid video, Thanks DB73 !!!.
Awesome information!! Thanks Dony!!
good vid ,, I like to blow the water out of the hose using my compressor airline.. it gets out any debris as well
Another great video. Keep 'em coming.
Thank you, Donyboy.
great video Don, lots of thorough information
Very nice. Thanks for the video!
Awesome video. Thank you!!
That can seems great, I'm getting it for next year.
Thanks Donnie,
That product is available from Canadian Tire too...just thought your Canadian fans (and maybe Canadiens fans too, lol) might want to know that. 😊
Cheers fron NB
Thanks Dony...another excellent "how to!"
thanks for watching
Sounds like a well cared for machine :-))
When i replaced the oil in my briggs&stratton mower the book wanted me to empty it from the filler, i thought thats bloody stupid as i wanted all the old oil/sludge out, under the machine was the exact 3/8 slug that you removed, it allways works fine and ive never had it leak afterwards :-)
There telling you to do that because they did away with the bottom drain plug on all the newer engines .
Excellent video.
Nice video Don. Have yourself a great weekend :)
Bif Fan, precise videos. Thanks.
I know this is an old video, but I just want to share that there is another product, called Pump Saver, used in similar fashion to Dony's foam can. It is available from Princess Auto in Canada. It is basically RV antifreeze in a handy bottle with a fitting and an on/off valve that screws onto the intake line. Nice feature is that the bottle is refillable, so buy it once. Cheers.
Good video
I imagine one would do the same for a snow blower in the spring / summer.
George W I don't think you need to worry about water freezing in a snowblower like we worry about water freezing in a water pump and damaging ceramic pistons and seals.
Once again, a thorough and easy-to-follow video! I really appreciate the time you take to make your videos!
I dont have that problem in the Caribbean however will that Briggs spray help clean the pump also or is that only a antifreeze.
Perfecto muy vien
Thanks for the video. I live in Ga. I have an electric pressure washer (no gas, no spark plugs, no hassle). It never gets below freezing and the pressure washer is kept indoors when dormant. So in my particular case, is adding the antifreeze necessary?
I just put mine in the house but I hear what your saying that works to
If I need to keep any lawn equipment in storage I just use engine oil to lubricate the cylinder.
The pump saver stuff is a good idea but because in the case of pressure washers, the aluminium ones corroded out on the ones that I used to repair !
Do you know if RV antifreeze has all the same properties/benefits as the (Briggs, Stabile, etc) versions of "pump saver?" The RV antifreeze by the gallon would be much cheaper.
Hello, Dony.
Is the idea the same on a motorcycle? I have a single cylinder, 650 cc.
Great video as always. I live in Buffalo NY so its a cold winter as well. I run my pressure washer to get all the gas out and then store the machine in the basement. That way I don't need to worry about the pump
Pump saver lubricates the pump and stops any corrosion and keeps your rubber O-rings and other rubber parts just like new .
Awesome!
Do you ever change the oil in the pressure washer pump Dony?
Great video, Dony, I forgot about my pressure washer! Mine is small, and I think I'll move it indoors so freezing water isn't in the equation.
Still a great idea to drain the fuel and address the carb bowl like in 1:36 - 2:35. That way it's more friendly to be indoors and you don't have moisture and varnish working magic in there all winter.
briansmobile1 my preferred method
I like the way you think. Details make the difference between having a job be successful or having to do a job over again. It seems 5 minutes on the right task can save an hour or twenty hours later. I like to play more than I like to do a job a second time for warranty.
I use Pump Saver because it lubricates the pump , the anti-freeze does not !! Great veto !
Thanks for the nice video! I have an electric pressure washer that took the whole can of pump saver. Any tips on getting the antifreeze distributed in the pump when it's enclosed in an electric washer?
the only way would be tot urn it on for 1 second but there should be enough in it the way it is
Nice as long as carb bowl and fuel tank is empty you’re good to go as far as gas go
Thanks for the vid. I've always used RV antifreeze in my Cat pump. I don't know what the advantage is w/ pump saver can. I do heat the oil up in everything that I change oil in. Don't know if it really matters but I know it flows faster.
the can is more user friendly
Warming the oil should help mix any sludge into the oil and it will drain with the oil.
donyboy73
Can I use a prestone yellow antifreeze , instead the RV
, thank you in advance
First of all I'm a big fan of Donyboy73 and reference his videos frequently for good advice but allow me to add some very important procedures to consider when storing small engines in general . Let's start with the the engine, no matter which make you have as a general rule any small engine that gets used on a limited basis should never be run with ethanol alcohol gasoline. In Eastern Pa. where I live there are numerous gas stations that sell non ethanol gasoline, yes it's more expensive however in my opinion if you consider the fact that over 70% of small engines that fail to function after long term storage is because of fouled up carbs. , ( do a little research about gasoline that contains 10 % ethanol and the problems this causes) the extra $.50 per gallon that you will pay for it is a very good investment. ( Again I'm talking about those engines that see very few hours during the course of a year- pressure washers, snow blowers etc...) There are two schools of thought as to how you should store the engine, with or without fuel in the tank/carb. If you decide to store the engine with fuel in it, and you are pretty sure that you will be using it at the beginning of the following season, make sure the fuel tank is filled to the top and that you add a high quality fuel stabilizer that doesn't contain ethanol. (I'll let you figure that one out, I currently use Briggs and Stratton 5:1 fuel stabilizer which apparently is no longer sold, when I heard that they weren't going to make it any longer I bought all of it that I could find, so I'm not sure what I'll be using in 5 years when my supply of it runs out, this stuff really does work!) Also make sure you run the engine for a few minutes after adding the stabilizer so that it gets into the carb. The reason for filling the tank to the top is so that there is no air space in the top of the tank where moisture can form and then eventually drop into the fuel during temperature fluctuations. ( this is critical if you are using gasoline that has ethanol added) f you decide to store the engine without fuel in it make sure the tank and the carb. are totally free of fuel, I would suggest that if you are running the engine to empty the tank and carb that you add a heavy dose of stabilizer to the last few ounces of fuel so that the last thing that goes through the carb. is stabilizer. (and yes when running a pressure washer engine make sure you have water running through the pump when ever the engine is running to avoid damaging the the pump) I follow the above storage procedures and I rarely have an engine that doesn't start on the first or second pull after long term storage, that's the honest truth! As a side note while I'm on a tirade about gasoline with ethanol added, during our 44th presidents term he was about to have his minions declare that gasoline sold in the US shall contain %15 ethanol which promptly caused every small engine manufacturer in the US to declare that they would not warranty their engines . ( again don't take my word for it , do your own research about this) Now back to pressure washers- I totally agree with Donyboy about utilizing the Briggs and Stratton pump saver, however I will strongly encourage you to use it after very use of the pressure washer and not just when preparing it for storage at the end of the season , no matter how long you ran it. What happens with pressure washers is that the majority of the time the water used contains at the very least small trace amounts of minerals, these minerals deposit themselves on the inner workings of the pump that as a general rule have very close tolerances inside the various workings of the pump , which without going into the technical details of how these pumps work, gums them up. Usually when this happens with rare exceptions, the pump is shot, don't even think about taking one apart to clean it and expect it to work again. One word of caution about the pressurized can of Briggs pump saver (which if I remember correctly is about $8.00 for a 6 or 8 oz. can) you only need to push the button to discharge the juice for about a half a second or until the juice comes out the discharge port on the pressure washer,. holding down the button on the can for more than a second or two will instantly empty the can. (I don' t think Briggs did this as a scam to get you to use the can up quickly but so that there is enough pressure behind the juice to open up the internal valves and passage ways in the pump so that the treatment is effective. I'm pretty sure that the pump saver is nothing more than lithium or silicone grease but I have no definitive proof of this. I would also like to add that if you screw your pump up on your pressure washer, I'm talking about homeowner type pressure washers like Craftsman's or Subaru's , don't toss the whole thing, you will be surprised how cheap the pumps are on Amazon. Most of the pumps are mounted to the engine by only three or four bolts and most non professional mechanics can handle replacing one. Also, forget the anti freeze treatment , in my opinion you shouldn't store pressure washers in sub freezing temps., you will never get all of the water out of the internal workings of the pump and if water does freeze inside the pump there will be a very good chance that an O ring or passage way inside the pump will be damaged by freezing it. On a closing note I would like to state that I do not work for or sell Briggs and Stratton products and receive no compensation for mentioning the above products because that's what I use and they work well for me. Whew.......
Very VERY good article . What you do is JUST what do and recommend .
I bring my equipment in my basement too. I still need to do the gas draining part.
Great video as always. I use compressed air 40psi and pour some windshield washer fluid in it. Then I blow that out. Any issues with that method?
no problem
IVE EVERY SEEN OR HEARD PUMP SAVER UM LOOKS AIR WHIPPED FINE OIL IS THERE SMELL TO IT LIKE MARVELL.?
Cool
Allways good a ones
Question:
if you have an older Briggs machine with a pulsa-jet carb and metal tank, isn't it better to fill the tank to keep out moisture? I've hadn metal tanks rust if they were nearly empty or half full....
yes it is
@@donyboy73
Thanks that’s what I thought. Metal tank not full = corrosion. My other machines with the float bowl style carbs & plastic tanks I drain the tank & bowl. The 2 stroke stuff I stabilize & start it up once a month in the off season.
I had no idea that auto zone is also where you can take your oil
Don I have a Brute power washer with the Honda GCV engine. I tried to put the rv antifreeze through the pump but it would not come out the high pressure end off pump. I had to use shop air to blow on inlet side to get air to go through it. Why wouldn't the rv antifreeze go through pump? I pulled and pulled the starter cord while I had hose hooked up with the rv antifreeze on the inlet side but nothing came out!
not sure, with the can pump saver there is actually some pressure to help it get in there
Don thanks you are right pump saver is under pressure
Can you do a video on what to do if your power washer leaks gas when you turn the gas on...and how to fix push button start...thanks...Great video...:-)
Carb leaks aren't device-specific. Usually the bowl. I added a valve to control leak which is good to have anyway, till I could rebuild the carb.
Dony, thank you for the video. One question about the use of the B&S pump saver in an electric pressure washer: would it be necessary turn the machine on (few seconds) after the injection of the protector or only the injection as the video (without engine movement) would be enough?
+10tigre1010 you can turn engine over but don't start it, the pressure from the can will get it everywhere in there
+donyboy73 Thank you. I prefer doesn´t turn on the machine. Then, is the product capable to reach each pump part including the valve spaces?
Yes
Donyboy73, so what your saying is that I should never run the engine without running water as well?
exactly
Correct!
When taking the washer out for summer do you drain the oils added for the winter time?
The antifreeze will spray out the wand.
@@donyboy73 Appreciate the reply!
Remember your heated building can fail and freeze, don’t take a chance of power outages
I send text messages to everyone in our family every year plus to my regular customers warning them, plus I offer to do it dirt cheap, one buck is all, empty tanks and run carb dry or add chemicals
Engine and pressure wash pump service one buck 😊😊
Instead of buying rv antifreeze wouldn't regular window washer fluid work as well?
It might if it's the formula with antifreeze in it. I just use old school green antifreeze. Cheap and guaranteed not to freeze and lubricates the new season startup.
Today's video!
could you just use an air compressor to blow out the pump ?
I do that with the hoses and attachments but then fill the pump with green automotive antifreeze. You can't get all the water out of the pump with compressed air. It may not freeze but it will corrode like hell and be ruined.
Use some ATF on all the quick connects and orings as well as in the cylinder when you take out the spark plug. ATF is cheap and perfect for rubber parts.
Pull the starter rope slowly until you hit the compression stroke and leave it there so the valves are closed.
How do you fix a broken pressure washer that was run without water pressure... the engine works, but it doesn't create any water pressure like the pump is bad.
you need a new pump
Thanks. Any videos on how to change these "pumps" out?
You can also try a rebuild kit if the housing isn't cracked.
NO PRESSURE DB73 THANKS
good video...but way too much work to winterize the pump....connect a short hose to pump with a funnel on open end pour anti freeze in funnel and start engine while adding more antifreeze...when it looks like pure antifreeze coming thru...shut off engine...and gas line stabilizer in tank before prepping pump should take care of fuel system...
wait. so you can't put that fuel back into a can full of fuel?
Donny, do not spray through the spark plug hole unless you have a secure hold on the spray tube! Thanks for the vid.
i know what im doing tommarow
thank you Putin.Jr