Small Engine Manufacturers rather sell you parts than add this simple accessory to save you money!
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2023
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment. - Навчання та стиль
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@Chickanic Is the Ethanol Shield different from the STA-BIL Storage Fuel Stabilizer?
I've been shutting off the fuel and letting the engine run dry for about 50 years now, and you are 100% right. That and changing the oil at least once per season, and stuff runs for ever. Thank you for your informative videos.
Psssh I bought my snow blower a decade ago and have never changed the oil lol
Yes yes I know I should, but I’ve got a plow truck and a skid steer so it really sees very very little use and is basically a garage ornament.
@@jaydunbar7538 Just lucky
This is great info.
I just poo-pood her answer yet I am giving you an up-vote. Seems like a contradiction, but you both have valid points which I do not disagree with. My no-valve, new gas in the spring, run dry B 4 winter has worked for 40 years too. Is there a need to use some dry gas during the season? Maybe?
Hey i wanted u to know out o alll lawn mowers and smalk engine chanbels i ve seen !!Way better than guys by fdd
Great videos. It's a real pleasure to see a woman destroy stereotypes.
I enjoy watching your knowledge and experience with small engines.
Keep them coming.
Good for you, when you get done praising her you can get fitted for a nice apro
So you admit the stereotypes are correct? You do understand how stereotypes work right?
Took a small motor class at community college and was told exactly this. The teacher also owned his own repair shop.
I'm an old (72-year-old) retired Army fellow. But, I like to learn. You seem to enjoy teaching. I stumbled around like a Blind Hog and found you on UA-cam and subscribed. I've been cutting grass for decades with lawn mowers without knowing what I needed to know about my equipment! Now, I have a chance after finding your channel. Thanks!
I always run non-ethanol gas, drain the tank at the end of the season and run the carb dry. Thanks for another great video!
Me too!
Dallas Ft Worth area has no ethanol free gas station; criminals. I have to travel out of that counties to buy real gas.
@PDB Long QuikTrip has zero ethanol in the DFW area.
Bucee’s in Denton also carries E0.
I run non-alcohol gas, don't drain the carb, and start first pull on my old brigs and stratton after sitting for 5 months. Good fuel makes all the difference.
The draining the tank and carb thing is a good practice, but it is only /needed/ for gasohol. Gasohol has a shelf life of 2 months sealed, and only a week in a fuel tank. Regular gas will last years (with a little stabil added).
I shut the fuel off and run the carb every time. No problems in 5 years since I started doing it. Great tip.
Hello. You mean run it till its dry and engine dies? Do you do that with 2 strokes? Because that will run lean for a while and i was always afraid to do that because i did not want to damage the entine.
@@HonzaZalabak you cannot damage the engine by Just shutting the fuel, unless you are revving It like hell or using It under heavy load, at idle the Little leaning when the fuel ends doesnt do anything
@@gillespriod5509 i thought that because somewhere I read that you shold not run yoirch chainsaw completly dry because of this
Don't run it dry unless you're putting it away for the year, there's several problems that can occur from running them dry one of which is the float can stick in the fully open position and the next time you turn the fuel on it'll flood and run out the overflow making a mess, if that does happen tap on the float bowl with a screwdriver handle a couple times that usually frees them up.
Running them dry everytime you shut them off is unnecessary anyways, all you're doing is increasing the chances of several problems that can occur from doing it, the only advantage to running them dry is for long term storage to avoid things like the gas in small passages and jets turning to varnish and getting gummy, otherwise it's simply unnecessary and invites problems associated with running them dry, gaskets getting wet and drying out regularly can also cause issues, just leave the gas in it between mowings it won't hurt anything, they're designed to have gas in them, just not long term.
@@dukecraig2402 thank you for this information. Makes sence.
55 yr old son of a mechanic and never heard of this hack. THANK YOU!
Ok, you're one of my favorite channels, but I still have a special place in my heart for the beer drinking Canadian guy. Good stuff, keep it up!
I agree, great channel, learn plenty here. Canadian beer drinker has Ytube channel? Have a link? I don't drink beer when grass cutting lol, cheers to those who do!
@@kowen3959 I think Jeff was referring to Steve's Small Engine Saloon.
A word of caution concerning shut-offs. There are two after-market valves commonly available, (in Oz, at least) one with a red tap & one with a yellow. I have learned, the hard way, that the yellow shut-offs don't flow as much fuel as the red ones. If your motor is larger than 17 - 18 horsepower & tends to be worked hard, make sure you use the shut-off with the RED tap. In most applications the difference may not be noticeable. But every now & then you might encounter a fuel supply issue under load. May your grass always be greener!
Sweet !
I agree, I have a red one on a 12hp mower, but no fuel filter. This year it would run for a few minutes then conk out. It was some junk partly blocking the hole in the shut off. I clean it out, and installed a fuel filter, running well again. I always use the fuel shut off, just in case the float ever decides to leak. I drain the tank each fall, then refill with new gas in the spring.
Better:
fuel sediment bowl SEARCH
Dump if you see water & fuel separation or all water, repeat until only fuel appears in bulb.
remove carburetor bowl and dump that if sediment bulb was filled with water, drain a little fuel through the hose into the loose carburetor bowl to clear out water in that, then re-attach carburetor bowl.
Warm air has a much higher water capacity than cooler air.
For small engine, refill tank immediately after use to displace warm wet air.
Small aircraft fuel tanks have a sump with a valve opened by fuel tester probe pin. 100LL has a blue dye that eventually stains the plastic fuel tester. You look for separation between clear water and blue gas. In my experience during preflight I checked by visual inspection after removing gas caps to see tanks were full. Then sumped Cessna 152 gas tanks, one each wing 12 gallon s, 24 gallons total. I always had some water, usually removed during first sump. Capacity of fuel tester probably 2.5 oz, so always 1 Oz or so of water. One time I sumped a tank 3 times and fuel tester was stained, I thought it must have been me. I went to the other tank and after the second sump I saw some fuel in the stained tester. I went back to the first tank and after a total of 5 full fuel testers finally saw some fuel. In my experience cold aircraft are not started before a preflight including sumping of tanks, so water in lines from tank is not a common issue.
Per another comment, make sure whatever you use has sufficient flow capacity especially for larger engines.
This was a great tip! I would add that, when running the carb dry at the end of the season, shut the gas off, let it run, then as it starts to run rough, start adding in choke. Continue adding in choke to keep it running smoothly until it runs dry and quits at full choke. This will get you closer to a fully dry carburetor. You're now ready to start cold at next running. I've done this with a 15 year old Ariens snowblower since new, and have never had to do carburetor work on it.
Agreed
Great tip!
When its so dry it won't run anymore, I spray the air filter with quick-start, and the extra 10 or 15 secs of running sucks the bowl dry.
I have a new Ariens snowblower and just run it dry then drain the bowl through the plug at the bottom.
Great additional tip. Because I just run it dry. But I will open the choke and let it run smooth then it can become even more dry. Sounds crazy but I understand.
Thank you for the advice to install a fuel shutoff on mower or other gas-powered tool fuel lines.
I try to keep my motorcycle gas tanks full, same with mowers, and have never had the moisture invasion problem. We're talking a half-century of doing that. My thought is that an empty or partly empty tank will inhale air as it cools off (nighttime, when the dew point drops and air takes up less volume) and exhale during the day as the air or vapor in the tank warms up. I believe that the more full I keep the tanks, the less "breathing" they will do every day. Never seen rust in any of my tanks yet. (I'm in my 70s now, still ride 3 motorcycles, have 2 gas mowers, a rider and a push, and the push is 30 years old.)
Happy mower using, y'all!
Good advice, I'm 70 and have been repairing small engines since early 1960s. I like the videos. They will help a lot of people.
Great advice, Bre. I have these on all my lawn equipment and run them dry after each use. The reason for modern gas deteriorating rapidly and attracting moisture as you have shown, is ethanol. I use non-ethanol gas in all my small engines and never have that jellylike gunk in the carb bowls. Will also keep your fuel lines from deteriorating. In a modern car, no problem, but in small engines ethanol is a real problem.
I started putting ethanol neutralizer in my master supply for all my lawn and garden equipment 5 years ago, which I draw my gas for my 2 stroke equipment from, and all my ethanol related problems went away, I can even let my equipment sit all winter (my snowblower all summer) with fuel in them and just like in the days of ethanol free gas everything starts right up the next spring.
I've got too much property to take care of with trimmers, mowers (push and riding), chainsaws and everything else to pay for that ridiculously high priced canned gas and there's only one station in my area that has ethanol free gas out of a pump and it's ridiculously expensive also.
In the 5 years I've been doing it everything is just like years ago as far as how I store and take care of my equipment, and I don't have some kind of white jelly built up in anything like all kinds of people said I'd have according to the guy who has the channel Project Farm, I quit watching his videos years back because of huge flaws I saw in some of his supposed testing, last time on this channel that I mentioned using ethanol neutralizer I had all kinds of guy's screaming at me referencing a video of his claiming it'd cause some kind of white jelly in my fuel systems that'll clog them up in a short amount of time according to him, it's like I told them "5 years now and I don't have anything at all like that in ANY of my equipment, so apparently there's a serious flaw in the way he supposedly proved it".
@@dukecraig2402 What do you use to neutralize ethanol?
@@beingthere597 Add water. Not kidding. Ethanol is hydrophilic. After settling, the water/ethanol will drop to the bottom. Then just siphon out one or the other.
I don't know how much, but ethanol adds octane so you should probably get premium.
@@sansoucie1969 Fortunately, the premium grade at the local Walmart (Murphy Oil Co.) is non-ethanol. I just have to put the first gallon in my car, since there is probably 10% ethanol gas in the line from the last user.
@@dukecraig2402 I also saw problems with Project Farm videos and stopped watching. Too many people can't think for themselves and believe whatever anyone tells them.
Thanks for sharing Bre. I've been doing this for 50+ years. My equipment ALWAYS starts on the first pull or the click of the key.
And....you're absolutely right about what we have to use that they call gasoline nowadays. It is definitely getting worse & worse.
Keep up the good work. You are definitely helping a lot of people out with your channel.
@@mariicancersorry to hear your bad news stay positive you will beat it
Thanks, I just bought a John Deere S140 after watching your videos. I was looking at a Craftsman 19 hp until i saw U!
I personally use true fuel as well. Run the equipment dry, add some true fuel then run to clear fuel out of the carb. Hit the cutoff, let it run out and your good.
True fuel is ethanol free and pre stabilized. Good for 2 years in the can, 1 year in the equipment. I can tell you I let some sit in a snowblower for 2 years. Yes it went from a full tank to 1/4 tank but that machine started on the second pull once I opened the cutoff. Great stuff for storage.
A local shop here would install these shut offs on every machine they worked on. It is amazing on the amount of time an money it has saved me with not having down equipment. Great vid!!!👍👍👍
Thats Exactly what the Manufactures think .. Save Money . Hence you dont get these little additions .
Gas is more water than gas,cars now have a water drain hole in the muffler years ago water coming out of the exhaust meant a blown head gasket.we haven't had real has for yrs.petroleum is being used to make plastic
10yrs.ago I let a gallon of gas sit for 2months and it turned to plain water and put out a fire with it.and when put a shut off on your equipment you shut it off and run all fuel out and this does keep your carb
From fouling up su quickly for sure.
@@larrygooch62332 months???Surely you mean 2 years.
Good shop
I been using sta-bil and 91 chevron non ethanol gas, storing gas for a year in plastic cans its been total fine, never had any issues.. I used the fuel shut off trick on the generator, etc; it works great..
Thank you for what you. My
Wife and are both retired. My wife was one of the first females to get in the aircraft maintenance career field. So we know that some guys have a difficult, time accepting women in used to be guys, So go girl!!!
Also be attentive of small engines that have a painted carburetor bowl. They will also paint them on the inside. The paint will break down and clog the valves. Especially if it has set up over the winter 👍
I read in a flyers handbook decades ago, that as soon as light aircraft owners land back at their airport, it stressed the importance of filling the gas tank/s up again. This gets rid of the air inside the tank preventing water vapor in the air from finding its way into the fuel. I don't know if this applies to any other machines with much smaller tanks, but there you are. Cheers.
Boats! Always stop at the ethanol free pump at your marina slip/ boat ramp and top off the tank. Storing a boat with air in the tank, ESPECIALLY on water at a marina, is asking for an expensive bill.
Float/needle seat/ gasket. Simple stuff that does wonders.
It just removes the air so that condensation isn't an issue, as mentioned it often an issue on boats.
I've done the fill up on my cars in winter for 45 yrs. On the advice of a pair of old school mechanics.
That is standard advice in the large engine industry as well. Even the manual for my 1952 D4 bulldozer tells me to top up the tank after shutting down for the day.
After 32 years as a small engine shop owner your advice is sound..spot on!
OUTSTANDING advice for your clientelle. Shows that you have strong ethics and morals. You are absolutely the type of mechanic more people should bring their equipment to. Its always better to give your customers little hints like this to help them save money on the "little things", which (as you and i both know), cause many unnecessary problems and more expensive repairs. This helps you concentrate on the more "legitimate", complex repairs, instead of the annoying ones that wouldn't happen if people would just learn what "operator maintenance" means, and how to do it.
It seems to me that the main reason ANY customer gets mad at the repair shop is that when you tell them that what started out as a "simple" repair, has BALLOONED into an expensive, parts replacement nightmare, they are realizing that you are actually telling them that its THEIR FAULT (which it is, and they know it).
@@charliepatterson9321no friggin way would I give my doctor permission to do as he feels is necessary without my knowledge . Thats just sheer lunacy!
Having been in the liquid fuel business for42 + years I can say that all liquid fuels dispensed from a refinery or storage is called low E fuel designed to be used within 24 hrs.Originaly designed for around cities to lessen emissions it have migrated to the public.As far as LP or bottled nat gas they to have an issue allow by the government (up to 20%)of inert liquids to be used as a filler.We in the business refer this to what's called (wet gas).
Great tip!
Ethanol has caused me so much grief with my lawn equipment over the years, and I had cursed, repaired or replaced several lawn tools due to hard starting and poor performance. Until I was enlightened about using premium (zero ethanol) gasoline and instantly all troubles just disappeared. The premium gasoline is more expensive, but honestly the time and frustration it saves is worth it. Also while it may seem wasteful, running the tool dry helps a lot in preventing hard starts after long storage.
Randy, not all "premium" gasoline is ethanol free. Be sure to check the pump labels or better still ask the station attendant if their premium grade gas is actually ethanol free. Premium, regular, etc. normally relates to octane ratings.
You can Add seafoam to ethanol gas and get the same result
Premium is a SCAM
Treat your fuel with Stabil 360 even though the fuel will not be sitting very long. 360 has additives to counter the ethanol issue. I have used it for many years and all of the issues I had in the past have disappeared.
@@joejohnston2035 Not in a "high compression" car engine. Regular is for lawn and garden equipment, unless stated otherwise by manufacturer.
I'm an expert on water in your gas (diesel) by now. John Deere 75hp tractor and it has been a nightmare keeping it running smoothly. Every time with no exceptions it's the diesel not the tractor. Yes, I have went to several different places to buy, yes I keep it indoors, yes I do everything right, or so I thought. I finally have figured it out and now have zero issues. 1) Water separator prior to putting it in my tank. 2) Keep a full tank during cold weather so water will not form in the headspace and drop into the tank. 3) Add a water remover, an anti-gel additive and yes even an anti-fungal additive. My tractor almost stopped running because of slime in my tank, injectors and entire fuel system. i know this isn't a small engine but I'm telling you I have learned the hard way to start with the fuel when sh*t hits the fan.
I discovered your videos a week or two ago and loved them. I'm a 69-year-old do-it-yourself chick. It’s just the way I was raised.
I drilled a hole in a gas cap, take the feed tube off carb. Use an blow nozzle and blow the system dry, then clean the carb 😀
The 1953 firetruck in my avatar had an electric fuel pump installed which gets shut off prior to shutting down the 800cubic inch Wakesha engine. Running the carb empty prevents vapor lock in restarting a hot engine. Works winter, summer for us since 1976 and we have never been in the carb.
Wonderful channel. Lots of knowledge presented in the understandable way.
Love her advice! I have used fuel stabilizer for 25 years anyway. Solved a lot of chainsaw problems. Also I too noticed the lack of fuel shutoffs and have added them to about everything. Makes draining the tank (for any reason) a bit easier.
Just for that reason alone it is worth adding, you’d think they would just make it standard, ya know the brilliant engineers!
@@iloveit9468 What, Make Things Better lol
This lady knows her stuff.
I'll do this, I like to empty the gas from my mower and put the rest of the fuel in the snowblower... then start fresh with whatever the season! Adding the shut off valve will save me time and with your added suggestion, the water...
I totally agree, a fuel shut off is a must on an engine with an elevated gas tank, I use it all the time. I have stored gas for 6 months in a sealed container, and used it in my car with no problems. However, small engines are different. A car may start at -20 with old gas, a snow blower, not a chance. Multi-cylinder engines with fuel injection versus a single cylinder carburated engine, the car engine will start better on old gas, been there done that. You have to treat small engines better since most are only 1 cylinder, so any small problem, and it either won't run, or won't run worth beans! As Chickanic says in another vid, CHANGE the oil. I admit my pushmower can go 5 or 6 years between oil changes, but the old 1973 Briggs flathead only got retired a few years ago because the deck was developing too many holes. The engine still runs fine.
The anti backfire solenoid is not a fuel shut off for the carburetor it's the needle valve on the float
That solenoid shuts off the fuel when the oil pressure drops below a specified level, and has nothing to do with backfires.
Thanks so very much Bre, for all your hard work and help to us, you re dearly appreciated ! ❤
Aw! Thanks Buddy!!
We fuel haulers test for water in fuel tanks, by putting a dab of water test paste on the end of our tank measuring stick. The stuff is called Gasolia AP02, and it turns coolant green when it touches water (the reaction creates the same green chemical as NileRed used to color his liquid soap). It could be useful to spot-check and show them visually that there is indeed water in the fuel. Undeniable proof!
If you keep your tank full, there is no (little) air for condensation. But this is a great thing, too. Also, my Brother (a Mechanic) says to _never_ use "mother nature's fuel" (alcohol additives) - use straight petroleum, as it saves the mixing thingie. Oh - carb!
Regarding your comment about sometimes not enough room for a shut off valve; I have addressed that by rerouting the fuel line, even if it means adding more. Adding that valve is the best thing i ever did for my small engines.
Great tip for those who don't know👍🏻 all my riding mowers/garden tractors have a fuel shutoff valve. If they didn't come with one, I installed one within the first month of owning it!
As you said, if you'll use it. My elderly neighbor bought a 1 year old crapsman rider 14 years ago when it had 6 hours on it. Still has under 30 hours on it this year. Anyway, almost every year I have to clean its carb. (She'll use it once or twice and let it sit the next 10 months with gas in it) about 8 years ago its nikki carb was corroded beyond cleaning, and when I replaced the carb, I installed a shutoff valve. She used the shutoff valve properly that first year and never since🤬 oh well... I tried🤷♂️😅
It's the alcohol that deteriorates everything including metals since alcohol is hygroscopic which promotes metal corrosion. Alcohol also absorbs into organic materials like paper gaskets and other materials that have an organic ingredients in them and this makes them brittle by dissolving into them. The best solution as you stated is to have a fuel shut off and then drain out the float bowl then pull start motor several times to draw out remaining fuel.
Modern E10 fuel should be stored in a HDPE canister that is air tight to prevent absorbing water from air and loss of lighter distillates from evaporation. I've stored this type of fuel in said containers for years and they always run when stored this way.
Fuel shut of valve is a must. Because, when the mower or riding mower is transported, the up and down movement caused by the vehicle will cause to move the float up and down, will cause to flood it. Some time to engine too
I agree, I’ve always “closed down” small motors by turning off the fuel. Other tips are: always clean your air filter; change the oil at least every 50 hours of use (shorter if it’s a 2 stroke); sharpen the blades of mowers regularly; sharpen the chain saw chains; keep the thing clean, you can spot problems before they get big; go over the nuts and bolts regularly (or use Loc title or lock nuts; hit the threads of bolts with oil or WD40 regularly, to stop rusting.
How do you change oil on a 2 stroke
@Philadelphia19147 I change the oil on my 2 stroke engines every time I fill the fuel tank. 😊
All good advice. Clean, sharpen and oil after you finish the job, not before you start the next one.
As for changing 2 stroke oil without changing the fuel, add some degreaser? Pour the fuel back into the mixer bottle, shake it backwards and pour the oil off the top? I guess if you mixed 100 gallons of 1:25 when it should have been 1:40 you could freeze the oil out.
I’m glad your honest about this I run all of my equipment dry at the end of the season and always use the fuel shut off valves
I put a shut-off between the tank and carb. I had my crankcase fill with gas once on one of my riders. My wife happens to work at a small engine shop in sales. I got her the info of the engine and had her order the carb. Installed it and added the manuel shut off. No problems since. (4 years)
Good useful info, thanks! Yup, water is everywhere, especially in air! Every time you start and warm up an engine, the crankcase exhales the old air in there. Then when it cools down it takes a deep breath of fresh moist air. Soon, you have a water-oil emulsion. That's how it works. As for gasoline, drain the tank empty if it will set more than 30 days. Most engines perform poorly if at-all with old gasoline. Even Honda!
A friend of mine had a boat and motor repair shop. He told me 75% of the motor problems was gas related. Enjoy your videos!
Thank you for your videos! I'm in Darwin Australia, and I get something from each of your videos. I do most of my maintenance myself and love having a resource such as yourself to help.
You lot can just park it in the sun, dry up all the water :-)
@@lot6129 It can be very humid in Darwin, even in the sun.
Just one more reason I love living in a dry climate (SE Wyoming). We pretty much never have to use fuel stabilizers in anything we have here, and have no issues with water getting into the fuel, even when the fuel is over a year old.
I just finished changing the carb on my Swisher rider mower. I bought the carb on Ebay for $32 but it included a shutoff valve, air filter, spark plug, and gaskets with it. The air filter was the right shape but too thick to fit properly. My biggest problem though was the carb itself. It had a little piece of plastic sticking up top of the choke control. I put it together twice and both times the choke would stick. I finally looked and the little knub of plastic was rubbing on the air filter case. The knub was only a little more than a quarter inch but there wasn't clearance for it so I clipped it off with my end cutter and now the mower runs fine. I noticed the little knub right away but being so small I thought it wouldn't interfer with anything. I was wrong. What a crazy thing to add to a carb.
started using fuel shut offs about 10 years ago, saved me many a headache I believe. Love this channel helped me with so many problems not to mention money
Great video! Ethanol in fuel is a total menace isn't it? Not only is it hygroscopic but it destroys so many rubber parts. Even with a fuel tap, the tank will breath with the temperature cycling and pull moisture in.
My favourite mistake is thinking I'll use the thing once more and so not drain it and then forget until the next year.
I been using fuel shut offs for many many years and my motor cycles, tractors and small motors all start right up in the spring…turn the valve off run carbs dry …also I remove batteries and put them on a good battery tender ,they work.🇺🇸😎
she is right. I've been doing this on all equipment. I have a farm. Probably well over 10 small engines. This is a MUST. not really for 2 stroke, but definitely everything that takes raw gas
Great video! It's something I probably wouldn't have thought of. Fortunately, everything I own has a shut off valve.
One thing I'd like to mention, and it's a bit unorthodox; I don't use fuel stabilizers but every spring I add a little bit of acetone to the fuel. It absorbs moisture and, being a great solvent, removes any varnish that may have built up. I've been doing this for years and I've never had a problem. I even use it in my gas fueled cars to keep the injectors clean. I use about 1 gallon of acetone per 25 gallons of gasoline (about 4% mixture).
From information I've been able to find, Acetone also helps the fuel vaporize and raises the octane rating of the fuel.
How much does a gallon cost and where can you buy it? Thanks
Yes, I put a shut off on my mowers but also a filter as well. Mow the lawn, dirt and everything else goes flying in the air, covers the mower, especially around the filler cap, and dirt goes in and doesn't come out, and clogs the needle. Now, no more clogs. So I recommend both, especially when you have to work on it.
As a kid, I worked for my Dad’s business selling and servicing lawnmowers, garden tractors, and chain saws. As I was learning about repairing them, refineries started making gasoline by catalytically cracking it. The gas had a very short shelf life, the it “rotted”. It gave off a very bad odor. To demonstrate the problem to a customer, I could dip a piece of rolled up paper isn’t the tank, remove it, cap up the tank, and try to light the wet end of the paper. Sometimes it would stutter into a weak flame, but never flared like good gasoline would have.
Today’s alcohol-polluted gasoline last a bit longer, but not much.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
We live eastern Canada and after starting to use high test gas in everything (non ethanol which is the problem) never had a problem since with starting or storing..etc. and occasionally ad some gas line antifreeze to get rid of water from condensation .
Good advice, indeed. I bought a new snowblower recently, and was shocked to find it had no fuel cutoff valve. Very annoying, and there's no room to install one. Also, when it comes to the fuel itself, I go to the local airport and buy 5 or 6 gallons of 100LL avgas- no alcohol. I treat it with Sta-bil right away, and use it on ALL of my small engines.
Avgas is stabile up to about 10 years on its own.
@@DblIre I have heard that- and I have had some experience with old leaded automotive gas going back many years (the gas, that is) that was still quite usable, but I am a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy.
Great addition for units which I find myself trying to empty of fuel each autumn. Word of advice for all: Do not use ethanol in your small engines if you can avoid it. I use only high-octane REC fuel, 0% ethanol 👍
REC fuel? I use 93 octane in my lawn equipment also because of the ethanol in regular.
So where exactly would you put the shut off valve? I’m new to working on my mower so excuse my ignorance. I know it goes on the fuel line but where.
@@janetriggle1011between the fuel tank and the carburetor.
The number 1 thing I tell people that bring me engines for carb work is if you can find non ethanol gas buy it for all your small engines. Ethanol absorbs water in the air which causes phase separation, that’s why you see so many carburetors gum up and even start to corrode.
A old friend of mine told me about this years ago. Never knew what he meant. But he would say when you are done cutting, “Run it Dry”. I was like what?!? So he explained and I do it every single time. I install mine right before the fuel pump. No problems. I may need to get a new one.
I ran a boat tour business in Maine for 25 years using a variety of 90 hp outboard engines…both 2 stroke and 4 stroke. I was meticulous about fueling the boat and made sure that old fuel did not accumulate in the tank. One day I bought 10 gals of gas at the local gas station and set off on a tour. One mile from the dock my engine quit and I had to be towed back. I got a glass jar, removed the end of the fuel pickup hose from the engine and pumped a half quart of fuel into the jar. It was pure water! I then had to spend several hours totally emptying my 27 gallon tank by squeezing the fuel line primer bulb. Worse yet after paying $2 a gallon to have the fuel reconditioned by the outboard dealer I was told I could not use it in my boat but had to add it by the half gallon when I filled up my pickup truck fuel tank. Not long afterwards I spent $25 for a special water separating fuel funnel that lets gas through but not water. Best $25 I have ever spent!
Do you have a link for that water seperator
If you use ethanol gas you won't have that problem. I've had water separators on boats for years and they work. Once ethanol in gas became a thing no need for the separators any more.
Yeah, the water starts at the gas station inside the tanks below ground. It's usually due to rainfall. Years ago, I used to go around removing that water from various gas stations throughout the day. It's a fairly simple process. We used a very long steel pipe that would touch the bottom of the tank and syphon from there. Probably the same process in your gas can, I suppose.
But if the station is putting water in your gas, that probably means (in most cases, anyway) they're too cheap to pay for this regular maintenance. I recommend not using them in the future to get your gas.
If a fuel supply tanker has just filled, or is filling the station's tank, avoid that station for a while. The water in the bottom of the tank can be churned up during the tanker's filling process and allow "bottom water" to be pumped into YOUR tank along with the fuel you are expecting.
@@oleran4569 Well, that would likely depend on how deep their pumping hoses/pipes reach down into the tank. If it's reaching toward the bottom, that would be moot, as the water is heavier than the fuel.
I’ve used sta-bil for decades and it works. I have also worked on small engines for decades and I will say 90 plus percent of small engine problems are bad old fuel.
Like the talk on the fuel shut off valve. I had added them o all my lawnmowers before because it was easy to shutoff and run engine dry for winter storage. I like your reason to use the additive added before running carburetor empty to help on rubber gaskets, diaphragms and needle seats. Something most folks don't know about gasoline and the difference with the Summer blends vs Winter blends and the timing of the change. The RVP, Reid Vapor Pressure is higher in winter gasoline with more butane and pentane to help with easy starting. Summer blend has lower RVP and hardly any butane. Depending what state/city you live in, will determine what RVP level. Gasoline's RVP must be limited to ensure that the fuel does not vaporize in the fuel system. If it does vaporize in the fuel lines, the engine can stop running because fuel pumps gas up and lose their prime. Summer blends are May-1 to September 15th for most of the country. Use the gasoline for the proper time of year and one will not have problems. Some folks trying to be cheap and use their old winter gasoline from October in March and April and thinking that fuel stabilizer will keep the gasoline ok. It will not help the evaporation of the butane and other volatile components that help gasoline burn easily. Keep gasoline containers closed tightly prevents loosing these volatile components needed to help with easier starting. They wonder why their small engines run bad every spring. It is easier to empty out gasoline that is over 2 months old and fill with fresh Non-ethanal gasoline each year. Also, drain portable generator tanks if you haven't used the gasoline in 2-3 months, use it in your car, then refill with new NON-ethanol gasoline.
Your other talk about the gas pump is something to consider also. Beware of the hose at the pump being used for both ethanol and NON-ethanol. If it is not a dedicated NON-ethanol hose, as you mentioned, pump at least a gallon of the NON-ethanol into your car before filling your gasoline containers for your small engines to prevent getting any ethanol, left over in the hose, into your small engines. Thanks for you channel. Vince G
Just found your channel and enjoyed this video. I only started working on outdoor power equipment a few years ago for my stuff/friends & family and I thought it odd that I was seeing equipment without fuel shutoff +/- fuel filters. I thought it was only about running a carb dry, imagine my surprise to learn I was inadvertently also saving engines from a world of hurt! Thanks for taking me to school- Greetings from Ontario, Canada!
I met the owner of B3C Fuel Solutions a few years ago. I real passionate chemist and cool dude to talk to and learn. Started using their products and have not been disappointed. Also installed that exact manual shut off valve because solenoids fail. Love your content and passion for sharing!
We purchased a new Honda mower several years ago. While still under warranty we couldn’t get it to start. Repair shop said ‘bad gas’ causing the valves to stick, which I am skeptical since we use the gas up between summer mowing and the snow blower. This happened a couple time to where Honda said they wouldn’t paid again for a warranty repair, claiming bad gas.
Repair shop said to add several ‘caps’ full of SEAFOAM to a gallon of gas (non-ethanol, which don’t use in our yard equipment anyway) and to also shut off the gas and then run the engine until it stops, to burn off the gas in the bowl. Since we have done such we have not had the sticking valve issue and it has been a great mower (but they discontinued making them is my understanding).
Yes, between adding the SEAFOAM and shutting off the gas between usage, running engine to burn off the gas. The tricks have worked well for our mower.
Best to all!
I'm going to add a fuel shut-off to my mower. Thanks for that!
I do pour the last of the gas in my can into my old truck at the end of the season just so it's not sitting all winter. I pour it in and then fill it up so the old gas is diluted with 22 or so gallons in the truck.
Makes more sense now why I’ve seen rust form inside the float bowl before. I have a Honda walk behind and never use the fuel shutoff that it came equipped with 🙄 maybe I’ll start 😁 thanks for the helpful video!! 🤟
I have a 1993 Snapper push mower with the B & S flathead that's still going strong. I always treat my gas with StaBil and let it run out at the end of the season. It usually starts right up in the spring.. if not, a little starting fluid works wonders 👍 Thanks for the info 👌😀
I have a thing called Mr. Funnel. It is a funnel with a very fine mesh brass filter that lets gasoline flow through it but it blocks and traps water. It has become a Spring routine for me to filter any stored gas from one tank into another to make sure I get rid of any water. It is satisfying to catch the problem before it happens.
Water in the fuel? Darn that Ethanol in the gas. It LOVES water. I'm a StarTron fan for a gas additive. Fuel shutoff, GREAT IDEA !
I"ve been installing shut offs for years also,eliminates 75% of problems.Great info for those who don"t know.Keep up the good work!
LOVE THAT SHIRT! I added a fuel shutoff on my 2006 Snapper, after I found the crankcase full of gasoline. I close it and run it dry after every use. It cranks on the 3rd pull every time. Oh yeah, I took out the electrical starting system and all the safety crap too. It's been a great machine and still going strong 17 years later.
I had a John Deere L111 that just happened to have the only japanese-made carburetor. The solenoid went bad and I priced them at $60 so I said nope and I proceeded to find a bolt that would fit that hole that was short enough and of course with a petroleum resistant gasket. I then got a $5 shutoff valve and with 2 adjustable hose clamps I cut the fuel line in half and installed the shut-off switch. When I got done mowing I would turn the shut-off switch to off and allow the engine to die then turn the key off. It worked great was cheap and easy to install.
Thank you I’m Mike and I’m 65 years old and like your videos. I to work on small equipment and you help a lot,So Thank you. ✌️
Hi Bre. I bought 2 of the weed watcher replacement heads I saw your video on. Boy we’re they easy to install . I also adapted them with aunt and washers to bump the head on to save the plastic head that was a 10 minute job. Thanks again for all the good advice your giving everyone
You can buy water finding paste to check for water in your fuel. We use it all the time at work for checking fuel station tanks for water. You just spread it thin on a stick and it will turn colour on contact with water instantly. They make it for regular gas and ethanol blends, some do both. (the ethanol essentially coats the water so the regular paste won't detect it all the time)
The shut off is needed in a gravity feed supply system. If you have a pump feed system it is not as important but still a good idea. A sight glass and water trap/drain would be a good addition.
I have a formula that so far has been working.....I have a shot glass in my garage and when my 5 gallon can runs out I put in 2 shots of Stabil, and 2 shots of Marvel Mystery oil in the can then go fill up with Non-ethanol. My gas can supply sometimes spills over from summer mowing to using the remainder to begin winter snow blowing. The blowers especially were a problem because I can't remember to run them for a bit every so often in the summer - but regardless....so far every spring when I start my rider and push mower, and every winter when I fire up the snowblowers, they all start easily. Marvel Mystery Oil has been around forever but I feel it adds to the formula somehow and keeps everything clean. No shut off's on any of my equipment. I do run my Husky weedwacker dry before storage and don't add anything to that but again I stick to non-ethanol for that also. Knock on wood or science? Not sure Lol
Thank you posting these videos!! I have learned SO MUCH!! We have so many broken down equipment here and usually end up replacing everything. You have given me the confidence to break out my toolbox and tackle them one by one!!! My husband is not a "fixer"...😂😂😂. So, keep up the good work!!!
Why is it your husbands job at all?
Why even mention him.
If a man did the same thing abiut a cooking and his wife all you fruit cakes would call it mysonagist.
You go for it Betty. If Bre can do it then so can you. Just take your time, work in a methodical manner and a manual always helps. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Was doing some research on a John D riding mower, 30 minutes or so later, you came up as a "you might like to watch' from UA-cam. I hit subscribe before you even mentioned it - I like your attitude and content. As the terminator said, "I'll be back"!
I counted four that I need. I know I'll acquire more stuff so I'm just going to get six. Thank you for the tip
I use premium grade fuel on all my small engines to avoid the ethanol issues. I leave the tanks full all winter and my summer equipment starts and runs fine come spring. I have never used fuel stabilizer. The fuel shutoff is a great idea. It’s convenient if you need to adjust your carburetor and it prevents leak by of the float needle seat (as stated in the video) which can wash the oil off the piston rings and cylinder wall causing a dry start.
Did you know if you go to a gas station that sells multiple grades of fuel using a single hose that the first 1 to 2 gallons are whatever grade the previous person purchased. Many lawsuits over this.
After spending multiples of what I spent to buy a mower on repairs, I am so grateful I found your channel. Subscribed.
I pulled my mower out of the shed after sitting for several years.(been down with health issues). By watching your videos(and a couple others) was able to get my 6.75 B&S started and running perfectly. I know I'm a little late to the party here but also added this fuel shut off valve so I will never have to deal with the issues again. Thanks for what you do!!!
Thanks so much for sharing. I usually use Sta bil with ethanol shield. Never had a problem.
I'll say this, you had taught me how to! and it's saved me a lot of money by repairing it myself. And I thank you for it.
Glad I could help!
I wish I had seen this ten years ago. I learned this the hard way plus a lot of labor. Thanks for the video. You are in my favorites.
Best thing I ever did was add this 10 years ago on my riding mower. I shut the fuel off and let it run until it stops. Works like a charm.
I've had a shut off valve on every piece of lawn equipment/snowblower for 35+ years, I also run non ethanol gas and mix one ounce of Seafoam per gallon of gas. I also fill my equipment full of fuel at the end of the season, start it and shut off the valve to let it die, I've never had a carburetor or fuel related issue.
I learned more about carbourators in this video then I did in a semester in vo-ag tearing down a small engine! Or maybe it just makes more sense because I'm the one paying when things go wrong! Thanks for this great tip.
Great advice! I do this always, and I also added T-fittings and another valve to make draining old gas easy. When something won't start or run, the FIRST thing to do is use fresh gas.
First thing I added to my brand new riding lawn mower!
I have a lawncare business I change oil a little ahead of recommended schedule and for off season storage I add seafoam and fuel stabilizer run all equipment dry , this storage and maintenance process allows insures my equipment runs for many yrs . My Ole saying is what you do at end of season depends on how you start next season.
Thanks Bre.
Great information. For the last 15 yrs, I've always use premium / non-ethanal gas and a marine grade fuel stabalizer for ethanol mixed gas. I've also installed inline shutoff on most of my equipment. ( more for no fuel mess when dismantling equipment) though, now that I think about it, when I put whatever equipment it is , to bed for the winter, I do run them out of fuel by useing the shutoff ang running them dry. I guess I've took your advice already.
Always use fuel shutoff whenever i can, and running engine out of gas is excellent as well as the ethanol shield, good stuff bre, thank you.👍👍
I have a 7 year old, Walmart MTD 21” w the Briggs 550 engine I believe. Oil each fall, new plug and fresh air filter and fuel. Touch up the blades or replace when needed. It just works.
I was stunned to see all that water condensation in that open-to-air cup of gasoline. Quite surprised. From my understanding of chemistry all I can figure is (1) it takes added energy for something to evaporate, (2) for something to condense you need to remove energy, (3) that energy exchange happens with the surroundings. So I'm theorizing that as the gas evaporates it takes energy from the humid air, enough energy that the moisture in the air actually condenses.