You might want to consider installing a short length of high temperature rubber hose in your exhaust system just prior to it’s exit to the outside. The way it is plumbed right now everything is totally ridged and with the constant vibration of the engine over time you will surely develop a stress crack in the metal system somewhere.
@Superb Media Content Creator Yeah, he is rebuilding this boat on the cheep not realising later on the cost having to do it all over again. I would say within two to three years as he has not even painted the wood.
I would highly recommend to install a flex exhaust pipe into the generators exhaust system. If you dont I am afraid the exhaust will crack over time due to vibration of the engine possbly causing carbon monoxide poisoning. Please be save and hope to see it back in a future update. Anyways keep up the great work, I am loving it!
Absolutely agree. The gennie will probably be bolted into place in time, but you always want at least one length of flex-pipe... probably two: where it meets the engine, and where it meets the hull
@@SilentSooYun for ground application that should be sufficient. It is also advisable to place a U bend in the exhaust system so that no water can enter the generator through the exhaust.
@@theflyingdutchman22 there is clearly a braided flex pipe right on the genny exhaust before the first muffler. And yes, that lumber clearly needs a epoxy finish or rot will become a huge issue.
As others have mentioned, there are a few must haves, , especially when going solo, but your learning! I truly admire your gumption, and enjoy watching your progress! Wish I had had a boat like this for my first boat! Be safe, and have fun!
As far as I know, perliminary treatments to wooden structures are mandatory. If you don't prepare the wood with the right products, it will rott in a few month. Especially the wood frames attached to the steel frames with no insulation at all will suffer. Think about interposing some insulator like Sikaflex between steel and wood, and some layers of woodstain to protect the wood. You should also modify the exaust circuit. Any eccessive roll could let the water in and break the engine. The use of a gooseneck could help. Anyway, wonderful work with your limited resources. Kudos to you!
Yes that is exactly what I think as well for the Pine wood he is using. I have seen guys using water proofer it is white in color but dry it is clear. Use a tarp to make a 6 Foot long by 4 foot wide rectangle pool dunk the pre cut wood in the pool. Pull it out... let it dry. Then install the wood. I would not in stall any wood on a boat (or Ship) that was not water proof treated. Even if it is only moisture (not from a leak) the wood will likely make a mold friendly climate.
Der Auspuff braucht 2 Dinge: den Flexi Schlauch um Vibrationen auszugleichen, den hast Du gemacht, hab ich jetzt gerade gesehen, und einen "U" artigen Syphon - Abschnitt, damit bei Wellengang eindringendes Wasser von aussen nicht zum Motor kommt, dann kommt es zum "Kolbenschlag" wenn das Wasser in den Kopf gerät
Good job keep up the good work. Something to keep in mind when anchoring you want at least a 5:1 scope on anchor line. So if you are in 1.5m of water let out 7.5m of anchor line / chain. Now in a storm or high winds I use a 7:1 scope.
as always excellent 🔥 excellent in the sense that the guy himself renovates his boat after the job is more or less well done it's not a big deal either
Try to add some flexi pipes to the exhaust and mount the genset on four vibration absorbing rubber mounts, and you can avoid cracking in the exhaust system.
Wrap the exhaust pipe with header/exhaust wrap to keep it from giving off the heat to the surrounding air. Keeps some of the heat within the piping. Vibration isolators on the generator chassis to keep down on rattles and hardware coming loose. Flex piping between generator and exhaust withing first 12" from generator.
I am not saying putting a household generator in a boat bilge is a good idea. Its probably not. That said, Fans and a source of cool air would be a good idea to keep the aircooled engine as cool as possible in the enclosed space
Yes he needs to instal bilge blowers. Always install blowers to introduce air, never to extract it unless the input blowers are greater than the amount of air the engine needs and then only to extract excess heat.
I don't even understand the generator. It's a 13 hp 6,5 kW output generator. There is a diesel engine of about 60-70 hp in the boat that also charges the batteries. Why not make sure that one is quiet?
@@maartendeen8404 Hi Maarten. The reason you don't want to use the main engine to charge batteries while at anchor is because without load on the engine, and just revving it in neutral to the revs needed to charge the batteries for the hours required, that will glaze the bores and ruin the engine.
Hiya, on our boat on the Norfolk Broads here in England, we have purpose made mudweights. They are solid iron with an "eye" built into them. They are approx 250mm diam, by approx 250mm high. Thety are specifically designed to hold in the Broadland mud, which they do very well. Have a look at them, they may be ideal for your requirements.
Tip; In case of chain. anchor chain length 3x the depth is enough to hold your vessel in place, no need for additional weights on the chain. Weights are used in case you use a line instead of chain or if the chain is to short, which is on itself risky with hard winds or streaming water.
Hello again and greetings from Ireland. I haven't posted any comments to your channel in quite some time, as I've been too busy just enjoying your videos. Having said that, I'm posting now to agree with others who suggest that a flexible section of exhaust pipe on your generator is highly recommended for the reasons stated. A one way , non return valve or goose neck on the exhaust outlet would do no harm either. just a thought, but for future reference it might help to mention in advance, any forthcoming projects/jobs you intend to undertake. That way, you can get first hand advice in advance, as opposed to comments/criticisms after the event. This might help you and save time, money and materials. otherwise, well done, and keep up the good work.
a good way to leave the doc is tying one rope to the middle of the boat on the port/starboard side then when your ready to go you only need to worry about one rope (make are you have fenders out as you hit the doc on the bow and stern)
Awesome old ship project and kudos for bringing it back to life.. it’s a lot of work. I did the same with a 1927 ex trawler converted to a live aboard and man what a lot of work. It’s so rewarding that first sea trial. Few things that stood out to me, please don’t take them the wrong way and maybe there is something I’m missing. 1. Why didn’t you guys simply remove the engine/ Generator out of the cage on the deck or dock knowing it wouldn’t fit and save the time of having to remove the front windshield? 2. Since the cage fit down the hatch.... why wouldn’t it fit with the engine/generator still in? 3. Why use the cage at all. Rubber mounts on the bench and secure it like that. Getting rid of that cage all together would give you few more mounting options and make access to working on it better. 4. Myself, I would not have run the exhaust level with the generator unless it’s always running, big waves hitting that side of the boat can allow water into the engine. Whereas running the exhaust straight up as far as you can the a 180* bend down then to the through hull. Almost impossible for water to make it to the engine. As I said, please don’t take my questions/ comments the wrong way and keep up the awesome project! Kudos!
It looks like the exhaust issues have been well covered in the comments, so I won't pile on. The wood parts really should have at least 2-3 coats of finish on them especially the end cuts. They will draw the most moisture. There should be something between the wood and the steel, like caulk, and it looks like the screws are a bit short. They should go into the wood two thirds of the thickness for good holding strength.
Not that am some big boat guy but my thinking is that you should be able to block that Exhaust off so if your boat gets low in the water you can’t block water from pouring into your boat from that pipe but I could be full of it.
Please do invest in a multi-gas (CO) detector with alarm for your occupants safety. All mechanical things fail over time and this will ensure you do not get gas poisoning. Keep up the great videos!
First of all, congratulations for your hard work, the learning process is sometime tedious but you are doing a great job, all improvement will come along. Just as a reminder, the anchor is not exactly what holds the boat even less on muddy floors, what really makes the difference is the chain itself, as a simple rule you should lay around 80ft of chain on the floor as your boat is 40ft, but to prevent drifting you can always use a second anchor, doesn’t need to be a fancy one, the idea is to make a triangle, but, since the setup you arranged, is working, take my words as a simple comment that can be handy in other locations. As I said great job and great effort for keeping you channel up and loading all those videos Thanks
The great work continues. I love this channel and really appreciate the ingenuity and energy that has gone into making the boat weather proof and generally repairing the interior especially. I wonder though: why fit a standard air cooled generator, when surely a water cooled marine generator, suitably insulated, would be much quieter and probably safer too (CO emissions)?
You definitely need a "gooseneck" in your exhaust line to keep water out of the engine. As stated below, if you do not put one in you will ruin the engine. One other item noted that before you put in the wood pieces to fix the paneling to you should have used a wood sealer to keep moisture out of the would foundation pieces. Your on water and unsealed wood will draw moisture in that will rote the wood.
Du musst den Auspuff/Motor gegen Wasserschlag sichern. Ausserdem könnten thermische Probleme mit dem Luftgekühlten Aggregat im geschlossen Motorraum ergeben. Sonst tolles Projekt, freue mich auf die nächsten Folgen.
Newer generators have them built in (finally) and will kill the engine if the levels get beyond the set threshold. Just the same I would buy a few more a locate them throughout the boat.
In most conditions with an all chain rode, for a secure overnight anchorage will need to let four to five times the total of the depth at high tide plus the height of the roller from the water to get the correct scope. Actually 2.5 - 3 times the length of the boat will do.
Flex joint for the exhaust please put one on get a carbon monoxide detector please and maybe think about an exhaust fan and a fan for that motor. Thanks for the video
Hi. I would like to share my experience with the same generator. My experience proved the origin muffler is not designed to carry any extra load. Even a light mass attached to the exhaust pipe of the muffler will brake it soon. I ended up with removing the original muffler at all and connecting my own exhaust system straight to the engine head. As the diesel engine vibrate much especially under load the mass of the unsupported parts should be as less as possible to reduce the load on the engine head connector (5mm flange and 2mm thick pipe). In my case I have only a flex joint to hang on the engine head. The rest of the exhaust system is fixed to the surrounding construction. After about 200 hours this solution still works fine. A good ventilation of the room is a must for an air cooled engine. I installed two vents 600 qm/h which looks sufficient and the temperature does not rise higher then 50C. As the engine is not marinized and there are hot parts the extinguisher system is required as well. Before that you may cover the hot pipes with glass band. Good luck with your project.
I love your channel. Youve worked hard to bring your yacht back to life but this generator situation is dangerous. As many have said, get ventilation fans and ducts, CO detectors and be prepared to fail any survey and have to redo it all again.
You should have some sort of check valve so water isn't forced up the exhaust.. also some sort of flex coupling would he beneficial. I agree with the gan down below..
Ive built my own home generator. Ways you can reduce noise and be safe 1. Take all pull cord cover off put small rubber washer under the three bolts reattach cover. you could improvise with a cut up bicycle tire inner tube. cut out rubber squares everywhere engine frame touches generator. change oil after first month. 2. 1800 rpm generators better. 3. Wire in a gfic plug.. 4. Ground your system righto
Lookup "exhaust riser " for thru hull exhaust connections. A few decent waves from passing boats will flood the exhaust system. Still need an auto darkening welding helmet badly.
Take a look at other marine engines you will notice that there is a sharp rise in altitude on the exhaust pipe it goes back down again before it the exhaust manifold. The purpose for this is to keep seawater from entering exhaust pipe and even the head or combustion chamber during heavy seas or waves could be slapping into your exhaust port. You could potentially achieve this by reorienting both mufflers into a more vertical position.
Just finished to watch all of your videos and i appreciate your will to create something nice for yourself. You'r on the right path, gratz. But, for this particular video i'll suggest you some things to consider on; Your first side wave could be the last, young man. You create a nice pipeline to pour water directly into your generator. Try to give it a nice up curve, at least. Make it water-proof. Secondly, you better find a way to escape some heat out of that room safely. Over-heating is a serious cause for engines. Thirdly, take good care of yourself. All of that dust and smokes could cause serious health problems irreversibly. You may feel yourself good for now but believe me, it's no joke. At the sea conditions all your need is well-thought precautions. I suggest you not rush. You'll be constantly battling with the sea herself. She wants you to sink but you have to be ready to rise your mid finger at her. Try not to rush. Thanks for that great show bud.
The exhaust should have a flexible section, otherwise the vibration will crack the manifold, also to reduce vibration transfer to the hull. To prevent water ingress the pipe should be routed up after the engine, travel horizontally below deck level then a "swan neck" down and out through the hull. Waste heat from a 10kw air cooled engine can be calculated at 20kw you will need forced air extraction in the engine room plus a source of cool air, if combustion intake air is too hot power will be reduced.
If you use closed cell foam insulation, it might double as floatation so enough of it could make the boat virtually unsinkable as well as super insulated.
The exhaust will crack again as they vibrate as they start. The exhaust that goes outside does not move so would be better to put a flexible exhaust pipe close to the generator. Keep up the good work it’s coming along nicely. 👍
The generator need to be out outside because of the air cool by pass ration in order to cool the temperature of the engine.its also writing not recommended for indoor.
I know I'm realy late to the party here. Exhaust wrap. It will help quiet the generatior. A back up generator is highly recommended. yes I saw the solar. With 2 small generator sets if one breaks during a storm or the night a backup will keep systems running.
Gibt ja mehrere Anker-Alarm Apps, die ich gerne verwende. Die prüfen per GPS ob das Boot abdriftete. Geben einem immer die Sicherheit, dass man Abdrift bemerkt, auch wenn man mal nicht alle 2 Stunden peilt. Besonders nachts sehr entspannend.
so eine App wäre heute ganz nützlich gewesen. dann wäre die mit Windkraft zurückgelegte Strecke getreckt worden. Das mit dem Generator als Anker(ersatz) ist natürlich der Hanmer, was nicht positiv gemeint ist…
I would think you need to isolate the frame of the Generator from the boat... rubber? , High density Foam, Styrofoam blocks? perhaps even a couple of old small car tyres!
You guys are going to want to make sure you have plenty of support for that exhaust along the wall but also it is of upmost importance to run a section of flex pipe from the generator to the muffler, or you all are going to continue to get cracks
I am also searching for a steel sailboat,to retire on,love your vlog ,you have a nice voice
They are some MC Hammer pants you have there my friend! Can’t touch this!
Nice Job. Don't rush, Do it right. Looks like it's going to be a very comfortable boat‼️. GOOD LUCK, Vinny 🇺🇸
O
You might want to consider installing a short length of high temperature rubber hose in your exhaust system just prior to it’s exit to the outside. The way it is plumbed right now everything is totally ridged and with the constant vibration of the engine over time you will surely develop a stress crack in the metal system somewhere.
@Superb Media Content Creator Yeah, he is rebuilding this boat on the cheep not realising later on the cost having to do it all over again. I would say within two to three years as he has not even painted the wood.
It doesn't really matter anyway guys. It's bound to end up on an Uncharted desert Isle after a three-hour tour.
I don't know how it's called in de but in polish it's "łącznik elastyczny"
There is a 6-8 inch flex right after the generator. Still it's not the right generator for this application...
I like seeing that, unlike other boat rebuild vids, that you are about "getting it done" and not worried about perfection but function through speed.
Transforming a rust bucket into a thing of beauty!!
I would highly recommend to install a flex exhaust pipe into the generators exhaust system. If you dont I am afraid the exhaust will crack over time due to vibration of the engine possbly causing carbon monoxide poisoning. Please be save and hope to see it back in a future update. Anyways keep up the great work, I am loving it!
Absolutely agree. The gennie will probably be bolted into place in time, but you always want at least one length of flex-pipe... probably two: where it meets the engine, and where it meets the hull
@@SilentSooYun for ground application that should be sufficient. It is also advisable to place a U bend in the exhaust system so that no water can enter the generator through the exhaust.
@@theflyingdutchman22 there is clearly a braided flex pipe right on the genny exhaust before the first muffler. And yes, that lumber clearly needs a epoxy finish or rot will become a huge issue.
I was going to say the same thing
Is your main engine not diesel engine,then why not diesel power generator and tap same fuel tanks
As others have mentioned, there are a few must haves, , especially when going solo, but your learning!
I truly admire your gumption, and enjoy watching your progress!
Wish I had had a boat like this for my first boat!
Be safe, and have fun!
Keep up the excellent commentary!
Really enjoying your inspirational videos!
Aloha from the Big Island 🏝of Hawaii! And Good 👍Morning 🌄.
Mahalo Nui Loa for dakine kokua! Hey, do you ever go to BIG ISLAND BREWHAUS/ TAKO-TACO? Best beer there is! Say hello to Sunny Colo for me!
i love your music selections.
Pleasant to watch.
Good resto!
Thanks for the share.
Congrats on getting the gen set installed and your first solo anchoring.
She's coming along nicely and I bet the finished product will be beautiful...
You’ve done a great job both with the videos and the boat. I’m binge watching!
That is going to be a super nice boat when he's done with it.
do not skip the steps
As far as I know, perliminary treatments to wooden structures are mandatory. If you don't prepare the wood with the right products, it will rott in a few month.
Especially the wood frames attached to the steel frames with no insulation at all will suffer. Think about interposing some insulator like Sikaflex between steel and wood, and some layers of woodstain to protect the wood.
You should also modify the exaust circuit. Any eccessive roll could let the water in and break the engine. The use of a gooseneck could help.
Anyway, wonderful work with your limited resources. Kudos to you!
Yes that is exactly what I think as well for the Pine wood he is using. I have seen guys using water proofer it is white in color but dry it is clear. Use a tarp to make a 6 Foot long by 4 foot wide rectangle pool dunk the pre cut wood in the pool. Pull it out... let it dry. Then install the wood. I would not in stall any wood on a boat (or Ship) that was not water proof treated. Even if it is only moisture (not from a leak) the wood will likely make a mold friendly climate.
Really nice workmanship
great job guys keep trucking!
Der Auspuff braucht 2 Dinge: den Flexi Schlauch um Vibrationen auszugleichen, den hast Du gemacht, hab ich jetzt gerade gesehen, und einen "U" artigen Syphon - Abschnitt, damit bei Wellengang eindringendes Wasser von aussen nicht zum Motor kommt, dann kommt es zum "Kolbenschlag" wenn das Wasser in den Kopf gerät
It is called an anti-siphon loop or a gooseneck. More difficult on an air cooled engine.
I really enjoy your tenacity.
Fantastic work. Love these shows.... 🚢👍👍👍
Good job keep up the good work. Something to keep in mind when anchoring you want at least a 5:1 scope on anchor line. So if you are in 1.5m of water let out 7.5m of anchor line / chain. Now in a storm or high winds I use a 7:1 scope.
Greetings from Belfast Northern Ireland
Loving the process. Great job man. You all are doing great. Slow and steady. 🤙🏼
Can't wait to try something like this one day!! Looks superb!!
as always excellent 🔥
excellent in the sense that the guy himself renovates his boat after the job is more or less well done it's not a big deal either
a slight slope on the exhaust for condensation to be able to drain out, and yes I did see a flex connection on your exhaust. excellent 👍
I want to say that your boat or ship is really beautiful that you work really well and accurately with your ship or boat, it is really nice;)
Coming along nicely. I am sure the insulation has made a wonderful difference.
You are doing a very good job on your boat 🚢.
Love watching your journey
Love your videos .I for one would not be disappointed if the vidoes were 10 minutes longer
Das mit de m Generator habt ihr sehr gut gelöst 👍Ich hätte das Traggestell evtl. auch noch auf Schwingmetalle gesetzt um ihn noch mehr zu entkoppel.
complimenti per il bellissimo progetto, stai facendo veramente un ottimo lavoro 👍🏼
Great job as always. Well done 👍
Try to add some flexi pipes to the exhaust and mount the genset on four vibration absorbing rubber mounts, and you can avoid cracking in the exhaust system.
Wrap the exhaust pipe with header/exhaust wrap to keep it from giving off the heat to the surrounding air. Keeps some of the heat within the piping. Vibration isolators on the generator chassis to keep down on rattles and hardware coming loose. Flex piping between generator and exhaust withing first 12" from generator.
Greetings from Tucson, Arizona USofA.
Just discovered your channel and subscribed.
I am not saying putting a household generator in a boat bilge is a good idea. Its probably not. That said, Fans and a source of cool air would be a good idea to keep the aircooled engine as cool as possible in the enclosed space
Yes he needs to instal bilge blowers. Always install blowers to introduce air, never to extract it unless the input blowers are greater than the amount of air the engine needs and then only to extract excess heat.
I don't even understand the generator. It's a 13 hp 6,5 kW output generator. There is a diesel engine of about 60-70 hp in the boat that also charges the batteries. Why not make sure that one is quiet?
@@maartendeen8404 Hi Maarten. The reason you don't want to use the main engine to charge batteries while at anchor is because without load on the engine, and just revving it in neutral to the revs needed to charge the batteries for the hours required, that will glaze the bores and ruin the engine.
@@EnglishLawyer Hone it, new rings, repeat.
Hiya, on our boat on the Norfolk Broads here in England, we have purpose made mudweights. They are solid iron with an "eye" built into them. They are approx 250mm diam, by approx 250mm high. Thety are specifically designed to hold in the Broadland mud, which they do very well. Have a look at them, they may be ideal for your requirements.
Tip; In case of chain. anchor chain length 3x the depth is enough to hold your vessel in place, no need for additional weights on the chain. Weights are used in case you use a line instead of chain or if the chain is to short, which is on itself risky with hard winds or streaming water.
Hello again and greetings from Ireland. I haven't posted any comments to your channel in quite some time, as I've been too busy just enjoying your videos. Having said that, I'm posting now to agree with others who suggest that a flexible section of exhaust pipe on your generator is highly recommended for the reasons stated. A one way , non return valve or goose neck on the exhaust outlet would do no harm either. just a thought, but for future reference it might help to mention in advance, any forthcoming projects/jobs you intend to undertake. That way, you can get first hand advice in advance, as opposed to comments/criticisms after the event. This might help you and save time, money and materials.
otherwise, well done, and keep up the good work.
Klasse! Nein...... Meisterklasse!!!
excellent progress
Aw I was liking the weathered Flags.
Your work is perfect: clean & right! Congrats.
a good way to leave the doc is tying one rope to the middle of the boat on the port/starboard side then when your ready to go you only need to worry about one rope (make are you have fenders out as you hit the doc on the bow and stern)
Awesome old ship project and kudos for bringing it back to life.. it’s a lot of work. I did the same with a 1927 ex trawler converted to a live aboard and man what a lot of work. It’s so rewarding that first sea trial.
Few things that stood out to me, please don’t take them the wrong way and maybe there is something I’m missing.
1. Why didn’t you guys simply remove the engine/ Generator out of the cage on the deck or dock knowing it wouldn’t fit and save the time of having to remove the front windshield?
2. Since the cage fit down the hatch.... why wouldn’t it fit with the engine/generator still in?
3. Why use the cage at all. Rubber mounts on the bench and secure it like that. Getting rid of that cage all together would give you few more mounting options and make access to working on it better.
4. Myself, I would not have run the exhaust level with the generator unless it’s always running, big waves hitting that side of the boat can allow water into the engine. Whereas running the exhaust straight up as far as you can the a 180* bend down then to the through hull. Almost impossible for water to make it to the engine.
As I said, please don’t take my questions/ comments the wrong way and keep up the awesome project!
Kudos!
It looks like the exhaust issues have been well covered in the comments, so I won't pile on.
The wood parts really should have at least 2-3 coats of finish on them especially the end cuts. They will draw the most moisture. There should be something between the wood and the steel, like caulk, and it looks like the screws are a bit short. They should go into the wood two thirds of the thickness for good holding strength.
and don't forget to use stainless steel screws when connecting the paneling to the wooden studs
Hello from Israel!!!
Great job👍
Maybe is better to make engine room hatch bigger 🤔 it can help you in the future...
Not that am some big boat guy but my thinking is that you should be able to block that Exhaust off so if your boat gets low in the water you can’t block water from pouring into your boat from that pipe but I could be full of it.
Please do invest in a multi-gas (CO) detector with alarm for your occupants safety. All mechanical things fail over time and this will ensure you do not get gas poisoning. Keep up the great videos!
First of all, congratulations for your hard work, the learning process is sometime tedious but you are doing a great job, all improvement will come along. Just as a reminder, the anchor is not exactly what holds the boat even less on muddy floors, what really makes the difference is the chain itself, as a simple rule you should lay around 80ft of chain on the floor as your boat is 40ft, but to prevent drifting you can always use a second anchor, doesn’t need to be a fancy one, the idea is to make a triangle, but, since the setup you arranged, is working, take my words as a simple comment that can be handy in other locations.
As I said great job and great effort for keeping you channel up and loading all those videos
Thanks
Put a flap valve on the hull exhaust port. Thank me later.
Carry on from Miami Fl.
🇺🇸
Flapvalve?. English Word for it?. Maybe yiu can share a photo? 🌻
You are so good! 🤩
CO monitor/alarm that blast your ears if CO is detected. It’s not called the silent killer for no reason. An ounce of prevention..
I would have cut the frame apart, mounted the genny and built an enclosure complete with sound proofing and it's own air supply for cooling
You've got the right idea.
The great work continues. I love this channel and really appreciate the ingenuity and energy that has gone into making the boat weather proof and generally repairing the interior especially. I wonder though: why fit a standard air cooled generator, when surely a water cooled marine generator, suitably insulated, would be much quieter and probably safer too (CO emissions)?
I am Russian, and I admire your work
You should use a flexible connection between the generator and the exhaust
4:45
@@tbd-1 thanks
You definitely need a "gooseneck" in your exhaust line to keep water out of the engine. As stated below, if you do not put one in you will ruin the engine. One other item noted that before you put in the wood pieces to fix the paneling to you should have used a wood sealer to keep moisture out of the would foundation pieces. Your on water and unsealed wood will draw moisture in that will rote the wood.
And a flexible coupling maybe?
Yes a gooseneck would be ideal and a bulletproof way of stopping water coming back up the exhaust and into the engine.
@@terrybray2874 Terry he seems to have one. It looked like a catalytic converter? I couldn't quite work out what it was.
double gooseneck
Carbon monoxide alarm please? That Gen set up scares me. I really enjoy your videos.
I like what you do, keep it up :)
Du musst den Auspuff/Motor gegen Wasserschlag sichern. Ausserdem könnten thermische Probleme mit dem Luftgekühlten Aggregat im geschlossen Motorraum ergeben. Sonst tolles Projekt, freue mich auf die nächsten Folgen.
Please Please Please ..... Get a Carbon Monoxide Detector.....and a Boat Hook.
YEUP 2 essential items 🎯🎯🎯
@@cliveclapham6451 life insurance
@@gregsullivan8956 yes if you got responsibilities (dependants) not sure applicable here?
what's a little CO between friends...oh...could be tragic
Newer generators have them built in (finally) and will kill the engine if the levels get beyond the set threshold. Just the same I would buy a few more a locate them throughout the boat.
In most conditions with an all chain rode, for a secure overnight anchorage will need to let four to five times the total of the depth at high tide plus the height of the roller from the water to get the correct scope. Actually 2.5 - 3 times the length of the boat will do.
Flex joint for the exhaust please put one on get a carbon monoxide detector please and maybe think about an exhaust fan and a fan for that motor. Thanks for the video
Hi. I would like to share my experience with the same generator. My experience proved the origin muffler is not designed to carry any extra load. Even a light mass attached to the exhaust pipe of the muffler will brake it soon. I ended up with removing the original muffler at all and connecting my own exhaust system straight to the engine head. As the diesel engine vibrate much especially under load the mass of the unsupported parts should be as less as possible to reduce the load on the engine head connector (5mm flange and 2mm thick pipe). In my case I have only a flex joint to hang on the engine head. The rest of the exhaust system is fixed to the surrounding construction. After about 200 hours this solution still works fine.
A good ventilation of the room is a must for an air cooled engine. I installed two vents 600 qm/h which looks sufficient and the temperature does not rise higher then 50C.
As the engine is not marinized and there are hot parts the extinguisher system is required as well. Before that you may cover the hot pipes with glass band.
Good luck with your project.
Good on you I like your videos
I love your channel. Youve worked hard to bring your yacht back to life but this generator situation is dangerous. As many have said, get ventilation fans and ducts, CO detectors and be prepared to fail any survey and have to redo it all again.
He’s in Germany they probably have many different rules
And get some term life insurance
now get yourself a flag of Bequia! it's the coolest flag of all 😍
Waiting for another video to drop🙂
You should have some sort of check valve so water isn't forced up the exhaust.. also some sort of flex coupling would he beneficial. I agree with the gan down below..
Ive built my own home generator. Ways you can reduce noise and be safe
1. Take all pull cord cover off put small rubber washer under the three bolts reattach cover. you could improvise with a cut up bicycle tire inner tube.
cut out rubber squares everywhere engine frame touches generator. change oil after first month.
2. 1800 rpm generators better.
3. Wire in a gfic plug..
4. Ground your system righto
Nice Job, But i would try to add in a Air Gap or Horse shoe bend between your generator and the Thru Hull. Just as a safety measure against flooding.
Insulation under the engine room floor will sort out the generator noise. Oh and the "green" rope on your anchor weight is not rope its string.
Smoke is from tipping the engine on its side, just so residual oil in the cylinder that make its way from the crankcase
or its the big crack from beating the shit out of it installing it somewhere it shouldnt be....
Lookup "exhaust riser " for thru hull exhaust connections.
A few decent waves from passing boats will flood the exhaust system.
Still need an auto darkening welding helmet badly.
Take generator key out and run the start wires up to the captains wheel area.
Nice videos bro I am from India Hyderabad
Take a look at other marine engines you will notice that there is a sharp rise in altitude on the exhaust pipe it goes back down again before it the exhaust manifold. The purpose for this is to keep seawater from entering exhaust pipe and even the head or combustion chamber during heavy seas or waves could be slapping into your exhaust port. You could potentially achieve this by reorienting both mufflers into a more vertical position.
think about adding a fresh air intake to the air filter to have fresh cool air to motor help it run better than taking the hot room air in
I was also thinking the same...
Just finished to watch all of your videos and i appreciate your will to create something nice for yourself. You'r on the right path, gratz.
But, for this particular video i'll suggest you some things to consider on;
Your first side wave could be the last, young man. You create a nice pipeline to pour water directly into your generator. Try to give it a nice up curve, at least. Make it water-proof.
Secondly, you better find a way to escape some heat out of that room safely. Over-heating is a serious cause for engines.
Thirdly, take good care of yourself. All of that dust and smokes could cause serious health problems irreversibly. You may feel yourself good for now but believe me, it's no joke.
At the sea conditions all your need is well-thought precautions. I suggest you not rush. You'll be constantly battling with the sea herself. She wants you to sink but you have to be ready to rise your mid finger at her.
Try not to rush.
Thanks for that great show bud.
Do you have a flex link in your generator exhaust. If not generator engine vibration will break your exhaust or the engine...
at 4:45 you can see it.
The exhaust should have a flexible section, otherwise the vibration will crack the manifold, also to reduce vibration transfer to the hull. To prevent water ingress the pipe should be routed up after the engine, travel horizontally below deck level then a "swan neck" down and out through the hull.
Waste heat from a 10kw air cooled engine can be calculated at 20kw you will need forced air extraction in the engine room plus a source of cool air, if combustion intake air is too hot power will be reduced.
@@dwansbo could not agree more with everything you said Derek.However,you must agree that this is a most unconventional build and only time will tell.
Like the pants. Can I get 3 wishes
Something tells me you might have voided your warranty 😂
If you use closed cell foam insulation, it might double as floatation so enough of it could make the boat virtually unsinkable as well as super insulated.
His hard work is exhausting
Love your work through out the build bro , But I cant help thinking that exaust is too low
The exhaust will crack again as they vibrate as they start. The exhaust that goes outside does not move so would be better to put a flexible exhaust pipe close to the generator. Keep up the good work it’s coming along nicely. 👍
it looks like a flexi @ 4:34
The generator need to be out outside because of the air cool by pass ration in order to cool the temperature of the engine.its also writing not recommended for indoor.
Goof luck on quieting that diesel generator ! Remember, it is air cooled so good air flow is critical !
Sehr cool was du da so machst
Mfg
Erich
Um das Boot gegen den Wind zu halten kannst du auch einen Treibanker nutzen
Check valve to keep water from coming back thru exhaust. Route exhaust up and back down.
Jayyy, awesome :)
I know I'm realy late to the party here. Exhaust wrap. It will help quiet the generatior. A back up generator is highly recommended. yes I saw the solar. With 2 small generator sets if one breaks during a storm or the night a backup will keep systems running.
Gibt ja mehrere Anker-Alarm Apps, die ich gerne verwende. Die prüfen per GPS ob das Boot abdriftete. Geben einem immer die Sicherheit, dass man Abdrift bemerkt, auch wenn man mal nicht alle 2 Stunden peilt. Besonders nachts sehr entspannend.
so eine App wäre heute ganz nützlich gewesen. dann wäre die mit Windkraft zurückgelegte Strecke getreckt worden. Das mit dem Generator als Anker(ersatz) ist natürlich der Hanmer, was nicht positiv gemeint ist…
I would think you need to isolate the frame of the Generator from the boat... rubber? , High density Foam, Styrofoam blocks? perhaps even a couple of old small car tyres!
You guys are going to want to make sure you have plenty of support for that exhaust along the wall but also it is of upmost importance to run a section of flex pipe from the generator to the muffler, or you all are going to continue to get cracks
This must be in Rummelsburger See, right? Lovely to see.