@@BlackBearForge I was gonna say that first! Just joking BBF but again thank you so much for helping another generation learn how to create a piece of history.
@@BlackBearForge hey there was someting you said that im not clear on, is a press a good choice for drifting? i thought you had said in another video that it tends to split?
You’re not the only one Kevin Hansen. Came back inside to see how he made a coat hook then went back out with notes. ( turned forge off first of course!)
That's an awesome idea flipping the bar 180 degrees while using the punch, just shows little tricks of the trade from such experienced smiths. I always learn so much from your videos. Thanks for all your knowledge!
I have watched quite a few videos most of them are like watching a silent movie. Thank You for teaching/showing us the trade. I would like to give it a try but with bad shoulders they hurt just watching you.
I've watched a bunch of guys forge a multitude of axes and hammers and just really didn't care much. This, like all your work, is interesting and it is good teaching, so now I think I might end up forging a little hatchet some day. Thanks, John.
Thank you for your work and giving of the great talent that you have I’ve been hot shoeing as a farrier for the past 60 years and appreciate your videos!
Hello John This is great i made a axe eye drift last weekend and this weekend im making an axe thanks so much john have a good day oh and thanks for the great videos.
Great video as always John , I'm looking forward to the others in this series..I enjoy making small axes I'm a bit to old and broken to do larges ones by hand these days . Maybe if I had a press and power hammer it would be different but I still get a lot of satisfaction out of doing smaller projects with a hand hammer . I'm sitting here looking at one of the two small axes I started before finding myself back in the hospital again this week.I need to get it finished and sent on to my friend in Norway , he wanted an Axe to go with the Saex that he asked me to make for him already.Keep up the great work and great videos, this is an awesome resource not just for beginners but some of us old guys too that never had youtube or even the internet when we first started.If there is anything that I have learned in my life is that there is always more to learn....I can come inside from a hard day forging or teaching students and the first thing I want to do to relax is watch other smiths working on youtube.....
I do believe that for me it would have made a considerable and quite valuable difference...Such vast amounts of information right at our fingertips....it's a wonderful thing....Keep up the good work my friend.
Thanks John I’ve been wanting to make axes and hammers and you’ve enlightened me on the drifts more in this video than I’ve seen in any other video that I’ve seen
I would love to see how long the list is now of future video ideas. I know we saw a glimpse of it quite a while back. Is it much longer or shorter? I’m thinking a lot longer.
Black Bear Forge I always have trouble with the eye wanting to go to one side and be thin there while the other side is thick. You may have addressed that issue in the video. I'll watch it again to see.
If not in this one I my have in part two. It starts with a good layout and then rotating the piece 180 degrees frequently as the hole is punched. A good even heat is also important or the punch moves toward the hotter side.
I wished I had a dad growing up to teach me these things. However, 30 years later, hear I am trying to learn them myself. If my dad wanted to be a dad, I’d imagine he’d be something like this guy.
Sir, thank you so much for making these videos in an instructional format. You are an outstanding teacher. I also very much appreciate you showing with hammer and anvil, as many hobby and beginner smiths do not have a power hammer and press.
Thats the sound of freedom.Nice little chopper,looking foward to the next one,great comparison of approaches.I almost bought a round drift at the flea market this weekend,going to make a pair of tongs today,then its on ,tool making is my ultimate goal.Finally got all my fittings for the blower to forge and forged a fire tending tool ,will be doing the tongs with no tongs method you shared with us,but with round bar for this pair . Thanks again.
That's a nice little axe! Great for a kid's axe. I want to start getting some drifts together so I can begin making a few axes here and there. Great video. I especially like how you taught us the method of drop forging at 27:26.
The bent-knee tongs looked like they work great for holding on to the eye, but I was wracking my brain as to what type of tongs would do well with holding on to the blade end. Fitted flat jaws would probably work, or purpose-built wide jaw tongs might be better. Regardless, I'll probably end up making a set of tongs when I start working on axes.
Making the tools to make the project is the best part. When I give away the item I make (I’m a hobby smith and generally don’t sell stuff) I still have all the tools I made sitting in the shop. They are my reward.
You can probably push out one or two of those in an hour, i guess i will be more in the reigns of one every one or two days if at all xD always a joy to watch you being an awesome smith
This is excellent; I look forward to seeing you work with the tool steel bit on the mild steel axe. By the way, received your sticker yesterday. I appreciate that too! :)
Enjoy watching you work great stuff this is a little off topic but I’ve been wondering what tools are needed to form an I beam shape into steel for some square stock thanks
Thank you for your video,perhaps you can do a video on how to determine the proper width and length for a drift for a hammer or axe.thank you again ,very good video.
Really really been looking forward to you doing axes. Since you make so many for work I've always felt it's your specialty. My end goal is to make my own small splitting axe one day. But I have an axe this size and there really useful, will give this one a go soon. Thanks so much! Look forward to the next one!
Great video. What other tools were you going to make from the 3/4 x 1. Blanks? I have a lot of 01 around that size. I am definitely going to make a little axe.
What would it take to have you forge a large Japanese wood chisel? I am primarily a woodworker but I have taken up blade making and watching your channel has helped me a lot but if you would make a Japanese chisel I’d appreciate it if I could buy it after Sincerely Tyler
such a friendly looking fella but DAMN those arms and hands :D btw. i have been binge watching your videos for the pat 3 hours since that anvil silencing video popped up on me :D
You seemed to imply punching the eye was going to be easier than chiseling. This called to mind a nail driven head-first through a piece of wood. Can please you elaborate? It makes sense to me that the pointy end of the nail (chisel) would move through easier. (I understand that wood and steel are have material properties, but I hope the metaphor holds up otherwise) Great video, cute axe. I look forward to the next axe and that Rocky Mountain video.
I sure didn't mean to imply that. At least not on the surface. While a chisel will get through the material faster, there is a bit more to it than that. I like the slot punch because it tends to make a cleaner hole that results in less fussing in the long run. A punch also tends to hold its shape better with prolonged contact in the hot material than a chisel does. But it sounds like a good comparison video at some point.
Yes. Just recently I had two chisel paths meet _nearly_ in the center of an eye. It was ragged and required a lot of file work. I understand. Thank you for the response.
Hey from Richard @ Big Bear Forge. I would like to see how to make a Viking broed ax or a stander brod ax with a large drop down. I have been wanting one for a long time, I could purchase one but I wont to make it. I not shure how to firger the amount of steel I need can you help. I am going to build a log cabin up in Alaska all by hand no power. Thanks
If I want an axe head of a specific weight, for example 1 3/4 pounds, how far over that weight should I start? Is there a typical percebtage of material loss for this type of project?
I m afraid I don't have an exact figure. Lots of it depends on how close to final shape you can forge it to vs how much you have to trim to clean up the shape.
Sorry, but no. These are a batch of specialty adzes for a chair making class. They were ordered back in January. So I am still aways out on the March orders.
If there is a part two, UA-cam usually recommends it. But you can also search UA-cam by the topic. But I think this is the next one ua-cam.com/video/0b8K4Eq5FS4/v-deo.html
Hello I watch your videos from France I think you are an excellent blacksmith and you share your knowledge what is your honor. I do not understand English but I look at the pictures I would like to know what steel you use to make your tools? thank you again for the good times you share with us DIDIER a 66 year old from France
Heat treating has four general steps. 1) Annealing - Leaves the material as soft as possible for easier filing, grinding or machining 2)Normalizing - De stresses the material and reduces the risk of warpage when hardening 3)Hardening - Material is brought up to s specific temperature and quenched in a specific medium to cool rapidly (air, oil, water or brine depending on the steel). This leaves the material as hard as possible but also makes it brittle. 4)Tempering - Controlled heating to remove some of the hardness which reduces the risk of chipping or cracking and also makes a tool easier to sharpen. So in this case once the forging is completed, I anneal the steel before grinding. Hardening will take place after grinding and tempering after hardening. Check out part two for more details.
@@BlackBearForge I'm with ya. I was hoping someone would know better. It is case hardened. I've cut a few up for welding projects. I do have a pile of them. Lol
I have a question, what tool steels are more forgiving under the hammer? I ask because on some of the higher carbon grades, like O1, the forging temperatures must be strictly adhered to. Especially around the eye where cracks could form. Thanks in advance.
That is one reason I like the mild steel with welded in edge more and more. But I think the simpler steels forge easier. 1085 - 1095 or W1 But they are hard to come by in large sections.
I realize it is a blacksmith project. However, You could use a alternative to punching the holes. Why not just drill the two holes. Then punch out the center between the holes. It would be easier to do. Work smarter not harder.
I have done that quite often. But many of my viewers have limited tools and may not have a drill press. So I try to present the simpler projects with only basic blacksmithing tools.
For some of us that have the tools, seeing the more “traditional” or limited tool approach helps get to the roots of blacksmithing and not fabrication. My first instinct would also be to drill holes. But seeing that tiny slug come out compared to the material lost to drilling. I think the time spent punching and drifting the hole makes it that much more appealing. Also, I love watching something made with nothing more then human power.
B Brown actually you hit on it yourself. Black bear forge goes it of his way to make this as pure a blacksmith channel as possible. Some things he does for his work he avoids here for people without expensive tools (drill press, belt grinder etc) but there are a lot of advantages to punching not drilling. In a piece this small you loose very little material as you push it out into the eye. It's also surprisingly quick to do.
Mr.black bear forge, when I forge a ax, I normally forge the blade first because I'm concerned about screwing up the eye, is this a reasonable concern ?
I feel the eye is easier to punch in a rectangular block that sits well on the anvil and gets harder is the blade is forged first. But I still go back and drift the eye a final time to make sure it is right after forging the blade section
I feel like a nerd telling you this but.. I am so happy you are teaching us all so much. I actually take notes when I watch your videos.
Taking notes is always a good odea
Why did you steal my comments?!?! Lol
@@BlackBearForge I was gonna say that first! Just joking BBF but again thank you so much for helping another generation learn how to create a piece of history.
@@BlackBearForge hey there was someting you said that im not clear on, is a press a good choice for drifting? i thought you had said in another video that it tends to split?
You’re not the only one Kevin Hansen. Came back inside to see how he made a coat hook then went back out with notes. ( turned forge off first of course!)
I appreciate your videos so much, John. You have no idea how rare it is to find a content creator who is consistently amazing. Thank you so much!
I appreciate that!
Nice message of encouragement at the end, thanks! :-)
Love that axe! Beautiful piece . Thanks!
That's an awesome idea flipping the bar 180 degrees while using the punch, just shows little tricks of the trade from such experienced smiths. I always learn so much from your videos. Thanks for all your knowledge!
That is an amazing ax I want to find one that size for hiking nice job thanks for sharing 👍
I love the sound of the hammer clicking on the anvil
I have watched quite a few videos most of them are like watching a silent movie. Thank You for teaching/showing us the trade. I would like to give it a try but with bad shoulders they hurt just watching you.
I've watched a bunch of guys forge a multitude of axes and hammers and just really didn't care much. This, like all your work, is interesting and it is good teaching, so now I think I might end up forging a little hatchet some day. Thanks, John.
Glad you liked it.
It is always a pleasure to watch and listen to you work Mr Bear.
Thank you for your work and giving of the great talent that you have I’ve been hot shoeing as a farrier for the past 60 years and appreciate your videos!
Love your videos. I’m learning a lot . Thanks!
Hello John
This is great i made a axe eye drift last weekend and this weekend im making an axe thanks so much john have a good day oh and thanks for the great videos.
Really neat build. It's definately one of my goals to ultimately be able to forge axes at some point when i develop the skill to.
Very informative.
Really appreciate that you are taking the time to do comparison videos of the two styles of ax. Thank you.
You are welcome
Sir you are awesome! I'm just beginning and all the projects you create are very doable for me. Great videos! Thank you
I really like that axe! it is the perfect size to go on my black powder shooting bag.
I was thinking of a bag axe as well. But chose not to use the term, since most people would have a clue what I was talking about.
Thanks for another good video tutorial.
Just starting to learn forging. Thank you for these videos. They are hugely informative and comprehensive.
Just subscribed after watching a couple videos. These are great for someone like me just starting our own forge, thank you!
Great video as always John , I'm looking forward to the others in this series..I enjoy making small axes I'm a bit to old and broken to do larges ones by hand these days . Maybe if I had a press and power hammer it would be different but I still get a lot of satisfaction out of doing smaller projects with a hand hammer . I'm sitting here looking at one of the two small axes I started before finding myself back in the hospital again this week.I need to get it finished and sent on to my friend in Norway , he wanted an Axe to go with the Saex that he asked me to make for him already.Keep up the great work and great videos, this is an awesome resource not just for beginners but some of us old guys too that never had youtube or even the internet when we first started.If there is anything that I have learned in my life is that there is always more to learn....I can come inside from a hard day forging or teaching students and the first thing I want to do to relax is watch other smiths working on youtube.....
I am glad that you are finding the videos helpful. I wonder how UA-cam would have changed my early evolution in blacksmithing.
I do believe that for me it would have made a considerable and quite valuable difference...Such vast amounts of information right at our fingertips....it's a wonderful thing....Keep up the good work my friend.
Beowulf something’s you have to see to understand. It is like vocational training. When I was in high school, vocational training was looked down on..
Great video! Im eagerly awaiting the wrapped style video!!!
You are the man...Enjoy your videos....Keep up the good work...
Thank you
I love your tool making video's we all need tools very satisfying when you can make them . Thanks for showing me how
Thanks John I’ve been wanting to make axes and hammers and you’ve enlightened me on the drifts more in this video than I’ve seen in any other video that I’ve seen
I suppose I should do a video just on drifts
I would love to see how long the list is now of future video ideas. I know we saw a glimpse of it quite a while back. Is it much longer or shorter? I’m thinking a lot longer.
Awesome work! Can't wait for the axe with forge welded edge.
This makes me want to try my hand at forging an axe again. Nice project and great video.
I really enjoy making them
Black Bear Forge I always have trouble with the eye wanting to go to one side and be thin there while the other side is thick. You may have addressed that issue in the video. I'll watch it again to see.
If not in this one I my have in part two. It starts with a good layout and then rotating the piece 180 degrees frequently as the hole is punched. A good even heat is also important or the punch moves toward the hotter side.
Okay, great. Also, your video on reshaping hammer handles has helped me immensely! I mentioned you in a video. When I post it, I'll link to yours.
I wished I had a dad growing up to teach me these things. However, 30 years later, hear I am trying to learn them myself.
If my dad wanted to be a dad, I’d imagine he’d be something like this guy.
Sir, thank you so much for making these videos in an instructional format. You are an outstanding teacher. I also very much appreciate you showing with hammer and anvil, as many hobby and beginner smiths do not have a power hammer and press.
Thank you for the demo, I am making hatches for everyone for Christmas this year. It really helps to see all the different techniques.
Learning a lot. Thank you for all the effort just to help people like me! Great video!
19:00 human power hammer :) great video, thanks for showing the process
Wonderful video!
I'm new to blacksmithing your videos are amazing!!! You explain so much. I'm so happy that I found your videos and refer my friends to you as well.
Glad you're enjoying them
I need to asorb every wise word the best I can...Thanks Sir you might be the best teacher I have
Thanks John
Loved this video.
I was glad you had a change of heart in handle nice vid
Thanks! This video was made for me, for sure
Fantastic video. Really learned a lot. Thanks.
you are a great instructor sir
Thank you
It's always a pleasure to watch you work John you make it look so easy.👍👍🔨on
Thanks John, makes me want to make one!
Good. that is part of the idea.
Another nice video, keep up the good work John
When i close my eyes I hear Ron Swanson.
Very good John.
this man looks competant!
Thank you sir that was a great informational lesson
Senhor muito inteligente, sua tomahawk elas lindas parabéns.
Nice!
interesting and very relevant, nice work, take as long as you want!
Thats the sound of freedom.Nice little chopper,looking foward to the next one,great comparison of approaches.I almost bought a round drift at the flea market this weekend,going to make a pair of tongs today,then its on ,tool making is my ultimate goal.Finally got all my fittings for the blower to forge and forged a fire tending tool ,will be doing the tongs with no tongs method you shared with us,but with round bar for this pair . Thanks again.
i forged my first axe after this video ,thanks for your knowledge. i m a bladesmith the name of my business is black cat cutlery.
Thanks teacher, slowly and verry detayling your, project have a good price for us he is my remember history with my father...All the best.
That's a nice little axe! Great for a kid's axe. I want to start getting some drifts together so I can begin making a few axes here and there. Great video. I especially like how you taught us the method of drop forging at 27:26.
Axes can be hard to hold onto sometimes
The bent-knee tongs looked like they work great for holding on to the eye, but I was wracking my brain as to what type of tongs would do well with holding on to the blade end. Fitted flat jaws would probably work, or purpose-built wide jaw tongs might be better. Regardless, I'll probably end up making a set of tongs when I start working on axes.
Making the tools to make the project is the best part. When I give away the item I make (I’m a hobby smith and generally don’t sell stuff) I still have all the tools I made sitting in the shop. They are my reward.
Your awesome man!! Please keep videos coming!!
Love the content! learned quite alot, thanks!
very nice ... obrigado
Axes and hammers are my goal
They are a lot of fun to forge
It's kinda soothing
You can probably push out one or two of those in an hour, i guess i will be more in the reigns of one every one or two days if at all xD
always a joy to watch you being an awesome smith
Thanks
This is excellent; I look forward to seeing you work with the tool steel bit on the mild steel axe. By the way, received your sticker yesterday. I appreciate that too! :)
I hope to have the welded version posted this evening
I think it would be cool if you made a vintage double bit fellers axe. The thinner longer type(redwood type).
Enjoy watching you work great stuff this is a little off topic but I’ve been wondering what tools are needed to form an I beam shape into steel for some square stock thanks
Thank you for your video,perhaps you can do a video on how to determine the proper width and length for a drift for a hammer or axe.thank you again ,very good video.
I will add that to my list
Really really been looking forward to you doing axes. Since you make so many for work I've always felt it's your specialty. My end goal is to make my own small splitting axe one day. But I have an axe this size and there really useful, will give this one a go soon. Thanks so much! Look forward to the next one!
Thank you for a good video . I could really use more education on heat treating and hardening.
Great video. What other tools were you going to make from the 3/4 x 1. Blanks? I have a lot of 01 around that size. I am definitely going to make a little axe.
What would it take to have you forge a large Japanese wood chisel? I am primarily a woodworker but I have taken up blade making and watching your channel has helped me a lot but if you would make a Japanese chisel I’d appreciate it if I could buy it after
Sincerely
Tyler
I'm afraid I am no longer taking custom orders.
I have an old Kelly axe and it is cracked in the front of the eye so you know the best way to get it reattached and solid.
such a friendly looking fella but DAMN those arms and hands :D
btw. i have been binge watching your videos for the pat 3 hours since that anvil silencing video popped up on me :D
I'd love to make a hatchet like this, but with real heavy leaf springs.
Would love an explanation of the steel types/designations/grades/numbers you used and those you know about.
I will try to put something together. there are so many different steels out there that it would only be scratching the surface
You seemed to imply punching the eye was going to be easier than chiseling. This called to mind a nail driven head-first through a piece of wood. Can please you elaborate? It makes sense to me that the pointy end of the nail (chisel) would move through easier. (I understand that wood and steel are have material properties, but I hope the metaphor holds up otherwise) Great video, cute axe. I look forward to the next axe and that Rocky Mountain video.
I sure didn't mean to imply that. At least not on the surface. While a chisel will get through the material faster, there is a bit more to it than that. I like the slot punch because it tends to make a cleaner hole that results in less fussing in the long run. A punch also tends to hold its shape better with prolonged contact in the hot material than a chisel does. But it sounds like a good comparison video at some point.
Yes. Just recently I had two chisel paths meet _nearly_ in the center of an eye. It was ragged and required a lot of file work. I understand. Thank you for the response.
Hmm might make this along with you. What do you think you are best at forging?
Hard to say for sure. I like making axes, but I don't know if they are the best thing I make or not.
Black Bear Forge hmm you are already making one of those. Hmmm
Hey from Richard @ Big Bear Forge. I would like to see how to make a Viking broed ax or a stander brod ax with a large drop down. I have been wanting one for a long time, I could purchase one but I wont to make it. I not shure how to firger the amount of steel I need can you help. I am going to build a log cabin up in Alaska all by hand no power. Thanks
lol "if i get 2 inches ill be happy" ....same
I love tomahawks!!
Hi love your vids my son is 15 we are getting into forging. Oh i saw a guy drill 2 holes all way thru on center punch. If that a good idea
Pre drilling helps guarantee a centered eye and can help as you learn to punch through larger material.
If I want an axe head of a specific weight, for example 1 3/4 pounds, how far over that weight should I start? Is there a typical percebtage of material loss for this type of project?
I m afraid I don't have an exact figure. Lots of it depends on how close to final shape you can forge it to vs how much you have to trim to clean up the shape.
Is Volkswagen torsion bar steel good forge metal
Where could I get a hook rule like you use? I love watching your videos!
While I sometimes have them on my etsy shop, I describe how ai make them in this video ua-cam.com/video/3_ZqaJ93dpc/v-deo.html
Would these axes make a good throwing axe
They would be fine for throwing, although I usually make a tomahawk style for use as a throwing axe.
you need a bolster for drifting the eye
Actually due to the odd shape of the axe it needs to be something more than just a bolster plate.
an axe making bolster, that's already an idea for your next video!
I have a question what is the best grade of tool steel is the best for making tools and hammers And axes
Does the punch have to be flat or can it have a sharp edge
John one of those adzes that are heat treating in the new oven wouldn't happen to be the one I ordered?
Sorry, but no. These are a batch of specialty adzes for a chair making class. They were ordered back in January. So I am still aways out on the March orders.
Black Bear Forge Interesting I have not seen a adz specifically for chair making.
Very similar to the bowl adzes but with a shallow sweep.
John. Can I use an old spud wrench to make an axe swedge? I thought about using the tapered handle part.
Do you mean drift? It sounds like a great place to start
Black Bear Forge yes, a drift.
so do you re-quench the punch?
It does get quenched in use to keep it from getting to hot.
I see I found this 3 years after you made it. so which and how do I follow this set of videos?
If there is a part two, UA-cam usually recommends it. But you can also search UA-cam by the topic. But I think this is the next one ua-cam.com/video/0b8K4Eq5FS4/v-deo.html
Hello
I watch your videos from France I think you are an excellent blacksmith and you share your knowledge what is your honor.
I do not understand English but I look at the pictures I would like to know what steel you use to make your tools?
thank you again for the good times you share with us
DIDIER a 66 year old from France
plusdier Je m'excuse si ce n'est pas une bonne traduction. Dans cette vidéo, John utilise l'acier O1. C'est un acier commun pour fabriquer des outils.
I use different steel for different tools. For punches and chisels I like S7 for anvil tools like swages and fullers I like 4140.
merci
merci
For this axe he used O1 tool steel.
He also said ANSI 1045 or 1085 would work.
Really great video John. Thanks learned quite a few new things.
Why did you aneal it vs oil tempering? Thanks
Heat treating has four general steps.
1) Annealing - Leaves the material as soft as possible for easier filing, grinding or machining
2)Normalizing - De stresses the material and reduces the risk of warpage when hardening
3)Hardening - Material is brought up to s specific temperature and quenched in a specific medium to cool rapidly (air, oil, water or brine depending on the steel). This leaves the material as hard as possible but also makes it brittle.
4)Tempering - Controlled heating to remove some of the hardness which reduces the risk of chipping or cracking and also makes a tool easier to sharpen.
So in this case once the forging is completed, I anneal the steel before grinding. Hardening will take place after grinding and tempering after hardening. Check out part two for more details.
@@BlackBearForge will do thank you so much! So much to learn . I love your videos have watched about 20 of them this week!
I hear Ron Swanson but I am looking at Wilford Brimley....
I have blades off of a 15 foot batting mower. I wonder the kind of steel they are made from.
Hard to say, you will need to do some testing to find out how to treat it
@@BlackBearForge I'm with ya. I was hoping someone would know better. It is case hardened. I've cut a few up for welding projects. I do have a pile of them. Lol
I have a question, what tool steels are more forgiving under the hammer? I ask because on some of the higher carbon grades, like O1, the forging temperatures must be strictly adhered to. Especially around the eye where cracks could form. Thanks in advance.
That is one reason I like the mild steel with welded in edge more and more. But I think the simpler steels forge easier. 1085 - 1095 or W1 But they are hard to come by in large sections.
I agree completely, more work involved but it must be much more satisfying in the end.
John, how do you feel an hatch/axe blade comprised of 1045 with (.43-.50) carbon hold up for general camp use?
Probably pretty good for a camp axe, but perhaps a bit soft for a carving axe
I realize it is a blacksmith project. However, You could use a alternative to punching the holes. Why not just drill the two holes. Then punch out the center between the holes. It would be easier to do. Work smarter not harder.
I have done that quite often. But many of my viewers have limited tools and may not have a drill press. So I try to present the simpler projects with only basic blacksmithing tools.
For some of us that have the tools, seeing the more “traditional” or limited tool approach helps get to the roots of blacksmithing and not fabrication. My first instinct would also be to drill holes. But seeing that tiny slug come out compared to the material lost to drilling. I think the time spent punching and drifting the hole makes it that much more appealing. Also, I love watching something made with nothing more then human power.
B Brown actually you hit on it yourself. Black bear forge goes it of his way to make this as pure a blacksmith channel as possible. Some things he does for his work he avoids here for people without expensive tools (drill press, belt grinder etc) but there are a lot of advantages to punching not drilling. In a piece this small you loose very little material as you push it out into the eye. It's also surprisingly quick to do.
Mr.black bear forge, when I forge a ax, I normally forge the blade first because I'm concerned about screwing up the eye, is this a reasonable concern ?
I feel the eye is easier to punch in a rectangular block that sits well on the anvil and gets harder is the blade is forged first. But I still go back and drift the eye a final time to make sure it is right after forging the blade section
@@BlackBearForge
Thank you sir
Do you sell axes out of your shop?
When I have them available I do