Possibly The Easiest Axe/Hammer Eye Punch You Can Make? Easy to make axe eye punch and drift.
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2020
- In this video I will be showing you how to make the Simplest Axe/Hammer Eye Punch possible. I will cover all of the steps to make this punch and drift in super detail. The step by step guide on how to make an axe eye punch can also be used to make a hammer eye punch, chisel and much more. I will also cover the main point of using the punch. You don't need to forge any part of this punch or drift as it can be ground with a simple angle grinder.
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Мисля да се занимава с коване и твоите филми са ми много полезни благодаря поздрави от България желая ти здраве и все така добра майсторска работа
My project for next weekend!
Great bit of knowledge, very fine workmanship, wish my wife were able to see your hands, maybe mine would be more like normal. Good information very well presented, excellent hammer work.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. Thanks Dan !
Thank you Master. Now I am satisfied. Because I am using this material. Very effective method to hot tools that you have done. 💯🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for the video. I like the reasoning behind using a thinner punch. Great info for someone like me who has just been figuring most of this stuff out as I go.
Well done and I as a American say you did our inches and foots very clear attention Sir thanks
I noticed our American lady Blacksmit using a small punch and dipping every stroke keep it cool and the little skinny punch dug deep quickly.Such as you were doing Sir thank you Sir
Nice demonstration thanks! May God Bless you and your family Greatly
Awesome video I really enjoyed the demonstration of it use following the actually forging of the tool.
Nice job. Thank you
Thank you Daniel. Very nice.
Super entertaining, thank you for the project and chat....
you made your steel "great again" Nice Job!
Thanks a lot, now I know the way to forge a drift.
Another great tooling idea great content as usual
I like this video Dan! I guess I'll trust you...your a blacksmith😁
Very nice way to make a drift, almost no material loss. You're content is great as usual.
Good video. Need to up my game or get lost in the dust. Thanks, as always.
Great job again Sir
J L P Services Inc well that lady does a great video and she Forge start to finish and a great job with hammer skills.
Your viewers might also learn from Sir
I'm going try axal rod because it's all I have Sir
Thanks for showing fine a video
Another good one sir. keep em coming
good points!
Nice work
I will use this method. I used your method to punch my first hammer eye. Thanks
Let me kkow how you get on.
You kick ass brother👍
I’ll be making both of these tools. Great idea!
Great video Dan. I'll be making one of each. One of the hot cut chisels I use I made from a piece of leaf spring and it looks very simular and works great as well.
That's great info about the Dog's Head hammer making as that is what happened to me on my very first and only hammer that I made. Thanks a bunch.
Amazing timing Dan, I have just got a bunch of spring steel and need to make the tooling for axe and hammer eyes. Thanks for sharing
Fantastically well presented! Simple and packed with useful information for both beginner and seasoned seeking to expanding their existing skill set! Smartly done!
Well done Daniel! This showed me a way to up my slitting and drifting game. Cheers!
Dan that worked out very well, going to have to make a drift and chisel now lol
Nice one Dan. Never thought of using leaf spring.
Great Video ! This is going to be my next project in the shop !
Great work man
Really liked the video. Just getting into metalwork myself. Going to check out more of your channel.
I'm thinking about making a small one for drifting my next boss of my tongs as my drifting as a New-bee is usally sloppy and not my intention.
Thanks looks great Sir
Great stuff dan
Very helpful, thanks. Hugo
Nice
Excellent instructional video as usual. I have everything I need to make a couple of these. Thanks for the idea, and instructions.
Really liked the video Dan. Not everyone has a Massey and for me the best part is watching you do the work on the anvil. Keep up the good work and thanks.
Very nice
i use my handles chiselpunch for making eyes on my axes, i used it primarily because i didnt have another puch and its faster than with a traditional brazeal punch. but its also true that you keep the walls thick so that you can spread them in the direction you want later. good info bro!
There are good ideas here Dan in this video and in comments below. Here and there rounded punches made the task easier for the tool but harder on the user. Liking more of your videos man!
Spring steel is my go to for tooling, going try a punch like this for my next eye
For all your tooling? Far I find it a little hard and unpredictable but if it works for you. Thanks for the comment.
Anything flypress related would be most welcome. I lucked into one this year, but there is very little practice advice about its many uses.
That's why you can't have nice things... Lol But always fun to learn from watching you work. Nice tools 🤟 Was that the bathroom? 😂😂 🔨On Dan!!
..if this video was 13 seconds longe, it would have been the Best 30:00 minutes i have spent so far this year. Well done sir, Fan=Dan-Tastic...!!
Too kind and it was but I made a mistake with the editing and had to cut some out on UA-cam editor. Lol
Great work Dan! Always educational and much appreciated! God Bless you sir!
I am going to hunt down some leaf spring. Need it for other stuff anyways, this is a very interesting demo. (As far as the quick and dirty tooling, I think you raised the bar.) I bet this could be handled easily enough. (Mild steel bar, fire welded on?)
Wooo earliest now let's wAtch
let me know what you think. If you can find the spring and the time its easy.
@@danielmoss2089 yes sirSir. Sorry I was on the quad squad Voxer chat talking about your video.
Yes to the idea great idea. Yes to the springs I've got virgin kw steering axle springs that go about 3/4 in thick by 5" wide. I really want to make hammer eye set.
Your tutorial here And in person is spot on perfect.
Sorry for the delay respond to you.
Btw are you on the new Voxer chat. Do you want to be? You are a member of the quadsquad you know
I've got plenty of leaf spring, I'll have to try this
You can make chisels and slitting punches the same way.
Repurposed jackhammer bits are excellent stock also. They are either S5 or S7 .
참잘하십니다
Out of all the tools I’ve made and hammers I’ve done. I will tell you that I like that slit eye punch way better. Brian’s version is nice but is got to much drag for me I prefer that style
Grate video daniel I Have two large springs. Will save some $$ I Also got two coil springs they are 19 mm round . so thanks for sharing this information .
Best of luck thanks for the comment.
I say this a lot.. but this was very high on my list of things to make.. and I have both of these scrap pieces, and I need a hammer eye drift and punch. Also find it funny you me and Alex have all done videos on scrap steel... (though yours isn’t really on scrap steel, and mine wasn’t about tool steel so they are all different.. still funny)
Hi dan I got question for you about the alec steel burner you made where can I buy them bulkhead you had. Where you get them and a part number. Thank you
Hello Dan
Another excellent video. Lots of really helpful pointers to make our lives easier. Something that would help me would be changing the colour of your text : I struggle to read what's written in the "red" section, especially when the fire is the background. This may just be my problem, but it sure would be appreciated if there is anything you can do.
In my opinion, you have the content and editing in a very good place right now, this would put your videos at the top end of all the blacksmith footage I watch. Thanks mate your time and effort is appreciated. ⚒️🔥 Ffforge on my friend!!😊
Looks like a great way to eliminate drag through.
I have made.a few slitting punches very similar in shape, but from H13 steel.
I am planning on doing an axe eye drift, so this version of it is very helpful indeed.
Another video on a larger felling axe eye drift would be greatly appreciated Daniel.
This setup would be perfect for a camping style/size axe or hatchet.
I tend to use H13 for punches and S7 steel for drifts. The impact resistance when hot is the reason for the S7.
Looking forward to the next video of this project.
I've stopped using H13 cause it's too unpredictable. So far just caused a bit of damage to tools but it could have got someone hurt. Never used S7 but if it works for you it's all good.
Thank you for the great comment.
@@danielmoss2089 only issue with S7 is it gets pretty spendy buying it.
But with proper hardening and correct temper done in a real heat treat oven it has amazing resistance to deformation and galling.
Cheers😁
H-13 has held up great for me, but I shy away from using it anymore since it is so hard on grinding belts. It also tends to chew up my hammer dies and that gets old fast.
Do you not worry about heat treating the forklift tine axe drift because its going to get hot anyhow while being used?
Yes , I picked up good pointers . Not sure if you've made an axe from a spring steel. If so , I look forward to viewing it . One question, that power hammer you own, was it commercially used in the past and you purchased . It looks heavy duty.
could some 1095 work for a punch like that?
Great stuff Dan, always love to see the way you work and your attention to detail. This vid’ is nice and timely as just I’ve been messing with some forklift tyne for a few projects: a centre punch and hot cut hardy tool (trying to work out how to harden it and if it can be) as well as a hammer eye drift. But I’m a bit confused on the shape of your drift and whether you did anything to treat the tyne metal after shaping it - I couldn’t quite work out your explanation for the triangular profile rather than an oval type of profile.....(or did I just not listen closely enough?)
Did heat treat its and I'll be making an axe soon with it and I'll show it again. I have a video of the hot cut some where using tine works great and Elliott made a bunch of punches using tine for the classes I was running and the work well also.
Drift has a bevel down one side and then I made sure it was nice and smooth. No sharp edges.
Thank you for the great comment.
I didn't heat treat the drift. If I had I would have shown it. Sorry auto correct.
Daniel, is there a reference list for the likelihood of what salvage parts are what kind of steel? Like leafspring usually being 5160, axles being 4140, etc? Like gears, what are gears usually made of? Or cam and crankshafts? How about hydrolic rams? What are these? And more importantly, is there a quick reference guide for it all? If not, how hard would it be to create one? Not an extensive list, just a general idea kinda list, of course each manufacturer has its individual preferences for their materials and an extensive list would require a set of encyclopedias for all of it.
I can buy leaf springs here at the salvage yards ,
You said there was no heat treat, did you just cool on a bench or bury in vermiculite? Thanks Dan!
👍👍👍👏👏👏🙋♂️
Iv got a good chunk of Coil spring. Likely 5160 or similar. I would like to try using that. It's about 5/8 round. If I flatten this out do y'all suppose this would work well for this kind of punch or am I better off using it fore something else?
Its a bit more work but i you normalize it and don't mind the extra forging you should be fine. best of luck and let me know how you get on.
@@danielmoss2089 oh I don't mind the extra forging I see it as extra practice as I'm new At Blacksmithing. It's going to be about 3 weeks before I can get to it but I'll let you know how it all works out. Thank you for sharing this with us.
For a bigger, thicker, longer drift, would it be feasible to upset the tine side to side, instead of cutting the tine, to make it the thickness for a normal sized axe handle?
You could or you could cut up higher on the tine. I think this was ment to be as simple as possible. The upset add a level of difficulty that might not be so easy for some. Good question
Slitting punches are great for lots of things and essential for some operations. How else can you pass a one inch bar, through another one inch bar for example? Good video, especially for the beginner who might not have great hammering skills yet.
Regarding the one to one stuff and giving students the most bang for their buck skills wise I usually come up with an idea for a piece that covers all of the fundamental Blacksmithing techniques within it's construction for one to one sessions. A hanging basket bracket was the last one I did if I recall. Bends, twists, tapers, set downs, punching, riveting, chiselling, drifting, upsetting etc, even a bit of forge welding, all in the one item. Doable in a day or two for a novice.
Have you got any video of making that? I'm a beginner and would love to see and try it 👍
@@Zogg1281 The pass through or the hanging basket bracket? I've no video of the bracket and it went with the client at the end of the weekend but I do have some photo or video of a pass through somewhere I think from years back.
@@ianlowe4666 I was more interested in the bracket as I've seen the techniques before. I thought it would be a good protect to practice a lot of the skills I've seen and come out with a finished project at the end. Thanks for the info and idea, I'll have to try to plan something out myself 👍
@@Zogg1281 Ah, sorry. I think there are a few variations of the idea online. That said it's probably a better exercise to design your own whilst trying to include as many processes as you can.
@@Zogg1281 It was something akin to this: www.inwoodforge.co.uk/gallery/external/garden/02.php
There's also another like it within this gallery as well: www.sussex-forge.com/bells.html
Hope they give you some ideas.
Hey. What material is your chisel? I need one of those myself... Just broke lots of shart and hard tips from my parents garage lol
It was leaf spring from my Toyota I believe 5160. I think?
i want to make the drift out of the foot of a railtrack. if i cut it in half it would already have one side tapered.
Just wondering do you use beeswax or a graphite mix to seal it?, very cool video Mr.Moss 👍
I do I didn't in the tutorial as I forgot it. Lol. Linseed oil bees wax and graphite.
If you have a power hammer and Press every thing is easy’er I guess. But how many beginners who watch these videos have one ?
Made all the tools needed to make the axe with of the shelf steel by hand.
I enjoy your videos. BUT, I'm 64 years old, I've watched a lot of your videos. You have a bad habit to hammer with your back bent over the material. I use to do that too when I was young like you. Now I need 4 disk fused in my back. Doctor says is from years of working bent over. Please! Raise you anvil to where you can stand upright. I did it to my 4 anvil 2 years ago and it helped stop my back from hurting so much. I know the old knuckle height saying but it's wrong. Stand straight up, hold your hammer out to where it would strike the anvil. That is where it truly needs to be to save your back for when you get old. Take care and God bless you.
I bet you don't believe me but the anvil isn't far of my knuckles in the position you have described. it's about an inch or so off.
I honestly appreciate the concern but I have some counter arguments. Firstly not sure if you saw the power hammer? Most of my actual work is done on the hammer or with stickers. Or with tools the push me up right it is often finishing work that I do on the anvil bent over.
So a lot of what people see on UA-cam is out of character for my normal set up.
Great points thanks might make a video on this.
Great advice sir! I only started smithing about 11 months ago so hadn't done my back any damage that way yet. My smithing tutor teaches the proper upright stance in his forge and is very fierce about keeping his students hammering the correct way. In saying that, even though my smithing had nothing to do with back injury, I needed emergency surgery on my lower spine about 6 months after starting smithing. This taught me how easy it is to injure your spine and how scary the potential aftermath is! If I hadn't been caught when I was I would now be paralysed from the waist down, making my smithing hobby a lot more difficult to pursue. The damage I took was due to bad posture for years as well as wear and tear due to age, but everyone who does a physical job should take note because their work could be causing the same kind of damage even though they don't realise it even if they are aware of the potential problems. If I could change the world, it would be to make everyone aware of how they can look after their spine at all times.
@@Moondog-wc4vm sorry to hear about the back. I hope it got sorted. I'm shock that in six months of full time blacksmith you hurt your back due to poor stance at the anvil. Ive been luck I guess cause after 10years almost not one issue and I was a fitter before working on heavy plant. (I was a fitter from 16-23.) I've had a very physical life up to this point. However like I said in the other messages I have the anvil set up for my average type of work which covers the support of the power hammer and sticking. Not Lone Forge work. I mostly work on my own for UA-cam videos. (or by hand only.)
@@danielmoss2089 Hi Dan, sorry forr the confusion, I didn't mean to give the impression that I hurt myself at the anvil. The injury had nothing to do with blacksmithing, my tutor teaches good stance and hammer technique and his anvils are set up the same sort of height as yours. I just thought I'd put it out there for people that it can be really easy to damage your back really badly and anyone in an active job should always be aware of that for their future health. The injury came from a simple everyday movement, reaching out to pick something up, I wasn't even bending over and had no weight on my skeleton at the time. It stopped me smithing for 16 weeks unfortunately.