Wonderful! Those are beautiful re-creations of that original axe head. I absolutely love how you use old material and correct techniques- your videos are always so interesting to watch. Thanks Maciej!
very nice. I dont know where your channel has been hidden all this time. I am constantly searching for other blacksmiths here on youtube who replicate viking age items as well.
Hello Maciej! I love the two axes! It is amazing to watch you making them! I also want to congratulate you on your change in filming style! It looks really good and very professional! Really a big jump compared to some other videos! Hopefully everything is fine with you! All the best to you! Jasmine
It would be a very short tour :-), my forge is very small - only 24 square meters. Almost all the tools I have got, have been shown in my previous videos.
where those axes just steel edged on one side? i remember axes from early ME finds complexes that have an envelope shaped steele edge. great work though!!
I love the design of these heads. The two methods of welding the cutting edge were quite different. What are the pros and cons of each method? I really like the scarf joint style and would give a very interesting look from each side if made with one part out of pattern welded steel. What was the thin metal used in the welded joins? Cheers.
The thin spacer is a medium carbon steel, i use it to decrease the forge welding temperature. Wrought iron has almost no carbon in the alloy so to forgeweld it u have to heat it up to sparks.
@@officinaferraria I would have never know about this style. I had always assumed the idea was to 'wrap it uniformly'. I love your channel. I learn a lot and I love what you make.
Could you tell me please, what did you put between the two parts (eg. at ca. 10:40) before forge-welding? Maybe a low carbon steel (soft iron) plate? And why did not you use this technique when the hard steel cutting edge was welded to the blade?
@@officinaferraria Thank you very much. So for example a plate of C45 steel is suitalbe? And I suppose, borax or other flux is also used of course, am I right?
@@officinaferraria Thanks! Just a note: if wrought iron is bloomery iron with a low carbon content (that may get from eg. parts iron structures of old churches or other old buildings during renovation), then I think that bloomery iron is very easy to forge-weld comparing to modern steel. This is mainly due to their slag content. So the tecnique of putting a C45 steel sheat between the two low carbon steel parts for a better forge-welding would have a bigger importance in case of modern steel materials. Am I right? What do you think? Sorry for the lot of questions. You dont need to reply here if you dont want. I can write you on FB personal message as well. I am just curious. :--).
@@adamthiele703 i use medium c spacers only when i forgeweld puddle iron, usually is well forgeweldable but sometimes it needs white heat to weld and it causes that thin parts of the axe eye burns. My observation is that high sulfur content iron ( coke were used for puddling process) doesn't forge weld well.
After you successfully forge welded did/do you have to continue to work in forge welding heat or can you work in normal forgeing heat after? thanks and very nice work the axes came out great.
Wonderful! Those are beautiful re-creations of that original axe head. I absolutely love how you use old material and correct techniques- your videos are always so interesting to watch. Thanks Maciej!
Thank you.
Great job! Real masterpiece!
There wasn't cheap weapons in medieval times as I can understand.
Beautiful axes
Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing with us. You are very talented.
A MOST EXCELLENT ADVENTURE !!
GOD BLESS POLAND, ... YOU, AND YOUR FAMILY .
THANK YOU !
Thank you
very nice. I dont know where your channel has been hidden all this time. I am constantly searching for other blacksmiths here on youtube who replicate viking age items as well.
witam, it's a best ax-forging video, during a long time!
Amazing work mate 👍
Great work as always !!
Hello Maciej! I love the two axes! It is amazing to watch you making them! I also want to congratulate you on your change in filming style! It looks really good and very professional! Really a big jump compared to some other videos!
Hopefully everything is fine with you!
All the best to you! Jasmine
Hi, Jasmine. Thank you. I changed the recording set to something more suitable in the dark smithy. Before I used GoPro and it wasn't a good idea.
Great job! Your videos are always very interesting to watch.
Excellent work thank you!
Fantastik workshop, outstanding result 😊
Fantastik work I ment😊
awesome viking axes
Could you please do a Tour around your Workshop im really Intrested in your tools and forge
It would be a very short tour :-), my forge is very small - only 24 square meters. Almost all the tools I have got, have been shown in my previous videos.
Nice job
Greetings from California
Super Arbeit & schönes Video vielen Dank 👍
Magnífico 👏👏
where those axes just steel edged on one side? i remember axes from early ME finds complexes that have an envelope shaped steele edge. great work though!!
Piękna robota
I love the design of these heads. The two methods of welding the cutting edge were quite different. What are the pros and cons of each method? I really like the scarf joint style and would give a very interesting look from each side if made with one part out of pattern welded steel.
What was the thin metal used in the welded joins?
Cheers.
The thin spacer is a medium carbon steel, i use it to decrease the forge welding temperature. Wrought iron has almost no carbon in the alloy so to forgeweld it u have to heat it up to sparks.
Optou pelo processo mais trabalhoso!
How can i buy from you? i love oringal remakes of viking axes, amazing acuracy
email me. officina.fe@gmail.com
I thought you would 'wrap' the axe edge material instead of placing it on one side.
In medieval many technics of cutting edge making were used.
@@officinaferraria I would have never know about this style. I had always assumed the idea was to 'wrap it uniformly'. I love your channel. I learn a lot and I love what you make.
Could you tell me please, what did you put between the two parts (eg. at ca. 10:40) before forge-welding? Maybe a low carbon steel (soft iron) plate? And why did not you use this technique when the hard steel cutting edge was welded to the blade?
Wrought iron is very low carbon content material so it needs high temp to weld. Medium carbon spacer makes the welding easier and lower temp.
@@officinaferraria Thank you very much. So for example a plate of C45 steel is suitalbe? And I suppose, borax or other flux is also used of course, am I right?
@@adamthiele703 i use c45 and borax.
@@officinaferraria Thanks! Just a note: if wrought iron is bloomery iron with a low carbon content (that may get from eg. parts iron structures of old churches or other old buildings during renovation), then I think that bloomery iron is very easy to forge-weld comparing to modern steel. This is mainly due to their slag content.
So the tecnique of putting a C45 steel sheat between the two low carbon steel parts for a better forge-welding would have a bigger importance in case of modern steel materials. Am I right? What do you think? Sorry for the lot of questions. You dont need to reply here if you dont want. I can write you on FB personal message as well. I am just curious. :--).
@@adamthiele703 i use medium c spacers only when i forgeweld puddle iron, usually is well forgeweldable but sometimes it needs white heat to weld and it causes that thin parts of the axe eye burns. My observation is that high sulfur content iron ( coke were used for puddling process) doesn't forge weld well.
Hello, thanks for your work! Is the plate between the welding layers phosphoric iron or ordinary mild steel?
Wrought iron contaminated by sulfur needs a high temperature to weld, carbon steel or P-iron plate between, let to forge-weld in lower temp.
@@officinaferraria In this case, a carbon steel plate was used?
@@prussianforging6394 yes, medium carbon steel
@@officinaferraria Thank you for the answer!
After you successfully forge welded did/do you have to continue to work in forge welding heat or can you work in normal forgeing heat after? thanks and very nice work the axes came out great.
If the forge weld is done correct, after you can forge it in normal forging heat.
Thanks a ton i just started forge welding and was not sure godbless and stay strong.
Can I buy one of those Viking axe?
Write me an email officina.fe@gmail.com
What did you put in with your scarf weld?
It is medium C steel. For better welding, wrought iron needs very high temp. to weld, steel spacers let to decrease this temp.
Were these battle axes, since they look too light for woodchopping?
more than 700 grams, ideal for woodworking but not chopping.
those were planking axes, used to gently shape the flat side of a plank or a beam. delicate work, more about precision than weight.
🤜🤛👌
Mozna jakies wyroby kupic?
Tylko na zamówienie póki co.
Do you sell them?
A power hammer hitting a hammer.... why do a sense this could be a joke to some LOL.
A to pewne, że od dołu się czubek nie ułamał w oryginale? Jakoś trochę nienaturalnie to wygląda, takie ścięte. Może było w czubeczek?
nie było czubeczka tylko proste ścięcie, taki typ.
Great work as always!!