There's a lot of "this is my opinion" and unlike almost all other locker comparison videos there was no "this locker is trash". Your opinion boiled down to "they all do something different, find one you like and use it". A very good and informative video!
I have a front Eaton locker and it works great except in northwest mud. The design makes it unlock when traveling forward and reverse till it will lock again, to get out of a mud pit. Most situations it works fine but not if you have to do short burst of forward and reverse. My brother runs an ox cable and I really like it. Just like a motorcycle throttle cable, the guys that dont maintain it have problems.
My god dude you were meant for this YT stuff. Simple straight to the point with a production quality better than some of the bigger offroad names on YT. Hats off to you man. I am digging the content.
@@DirtLifestyle Hey man I tell it how it is. You Channel is one of a few I can stand. No BS filler, and on point with facts. on top of that you are Honest.
@@mikehancho5286 100% I learn something in every video. It may be how to approach a line or how you can probably afford to suck a little at welding, as you figure it out.
@@donewhiskey Same here. I lost a lot of my wheeling skills when the wife,and I started to have kids. They are 6,and 3 now. My JKUR is finally to the point I would trust it taking the family out on the local trails. These vids especially the slow motion me remember how to pic lines, and technique. Also the fabrication is extremely helpful since I am 100% self taught , and just picked up a Omnie Pro 220 welder to learn. I have a truss kit, LCA skids, and track bar brackets waiting to get burn on. his vids help alot. I share most of his vids my Jeep club since we are predicated on the beginner level side here in WA.
You know your an offroad addict when something that keeps you up at night is wondering if metal shavings will collect on the electromagnet on lockers lol :D
@@DirtLifestyle you can solve that issue by having a strong magnet on your plug for the diff housing - the electromagnet is only on when you have the locker actuated, and it shouldn't be strong enough to 'steal' the metal shavings from the magnet on your plug
@@DirtLifestyle I will test this theory out. I did the Eaton E-Locker in my D-35 last year along with new 4:88 gears and I'm about to do an inspection to see how the gears are wearing in.
I've been running a Detroit for a few years in the rear with an ARB front. Just in the process of changing it for an Ashcroft (air) now for a couple reasons. First, the Detroit really made me push the front in tight turns to the point where last year on the Dusy (very tight trail) a friend in a similar truck with 10" more wheelbase was making turns I couldn't. Second, I've broken a couple axle shafts in it and it always seems to shock load the remaining axle and twist it in the process. I can't categorically state that's due to the Detroit - it could be both shafts were twisting splines and I only saw it when tearing down to repair, though I've had several other people tell me they've seen the same thing with a Detroit.
A good friend of mine ran the manual ox locker for years. Never had any issues. He wheeled that thing hard. Hes snapped ring and pinnions and chromoly axle shafts and the locker held up. Then again he's also a mountain biker and knows how to set up cables.
I kind of love that you have so many carriers just laying around for your examples.... I HAVE WANTED TO TRY AN OX FOR YEARS!! Eeeeeeeveryones all like, "ARBS OR NOTHING". That settles it. When I lock up the LJ, im getting OX. For the same reasons you listed, the cable seems like such a simple straightforward solution. I've thought so for years. Thanks for the video man. Great stuff.
Only locker i've ever owned was a detroit "soft locker" (what a horrible name for that locker). Always worked great! Man it had some squirly road manners sometimes. I'd run one again, but ive heard the in coil suspensions they're even worse (i had it on my YJ, on leaves). That thing scared the hell out of me the first time in unloaded. KLANG! and practically sent me into another lane of traffic. Ya get used to it though. :P
Running a Lokka in the rear of my XJ sitting on 33s and an auto. DD with 400-500miles a week on pavement and this performs real well. Off-road - my little XJ impresses everyone watching. I'm happy and I'm not broke.
I have OX lockers front and rear and have never had a single issue. They have been awesome and the the positive lock and unlock at the moving of a lever is the best part.
Your line at end of video...."Just think about what works best for you and what works best for your trouble shooting abilities " great line doesnt get more to the whole point of a build then that. At the end of the day we have to be our own mechanics on the trail bcs that random guy in a video who told you what you liked was crap isnt gonna show up to fix your rig when you install what he preached. Your one of the good guys anyone at any skill level will benefit from your vids. Thanks for putting this out there.
I run E-lockers front and rear on my rig and in general I like them. The only two downsides to an E-Locker is rotation to engage and having an electric wire which is relatively exposed to water and mud at the diff pumpkin. I’ve not had the wire fail but I figure it’s a matter time if you go threw wet terrain. Engagement rotation just forces you to plan ahead and engage your lockers before you hit an obstacle otherwise you’ll have to back up, engage and re-approach. If you engage once you’re stuck you risk a bit of stress on the axle when one tire is spinning and the other isn’t when suddenly the rotation is complete and both shafts lock. Always best to lock when stopped and get the engagement with both tires rotating at the same rpm
I have dual manual cable lockers in mine. You hit the nail on the head, only issues you're ever going to see is something with adjustment. I've had them for years and never a single issue...after adjusted right.
Changed a Ford 9 inch at a racetrack On a long weekend race event. No good change of clothes smelled like gear oil all weekend. Oh to be young and stupid again LOL
Just saw your comment about smelling the oil and made my stomach turn. Ive spent the last few days rebuilding my front end. Smells so burnt im still smelling it.
As always, great video! When I lived in America, I had a D2 with a Detroit auto locker in the rear and a TruTrac in the front. With the Traction Control in the D2, in worked amazingly with the front TruTrac. A torsen LSD multiplies the traction from side to side, so when a wheel lifts, the torsen cannot multiply 0 traction. However once it gets working with the Traction Control, its by far the closest you can get to the full performance of a locker in my opinion. Now that I'm back in New Zealand, I run a D1 with an auto locker in the back and an E-Locker up front. The E-Locker is awesome, my one has a sealed solenoid so there's no issue of detail shavings building up on the magnet, and I run super strong magnets on my drain and fill plugs to keep any filings out of the important parts! Been very reliable so far.
I've known a lot of Rover guys who love their TruTracs, especially as you mentioned in the D2 with it's TC to help 'brake' a lifted tire. But I've also wheeled beside basically identical trucks to mine (D1 vs RRC for example) and seen my true lockers (ARB front/Detroit rear) give me an easier time than the TruTracs. I think they are a great option until you get into more serious crawling where having a tire fully in the air is more likely.
Very helpful , you just kept me from making a “Lesson Learned” costly experience mistake . I’d like to tell you I built my rig or at least helped , but I don’t have the time, so yeah I dropped it off at a shop 🤭. With 40 Super Swampers on front 60/rear Sterling 10.5 ,, the rear limited slip sucks , barely works , so I’m going to have to get a real locker . I went with an Eaton E-Locker up front , tried it out for the first time today , worked great !! But the rear is disappointing , it’s basically a 1 tire fryer 😡. Just found your channel a few days ago , your videos are always very helpful, I was about to order a Detroit Truetrac,, worm gear style cause I’m not concerned with the rear being totally locked up or 50/50 torque,, but after you said anything over a 35 inch it’s basically crappy limited slip that won’t work half the time , I think I’m just gonna go with a Grizzly and be done with it . Thanks for the info
So well laid out, well done dude. I appreciate the bluntness and IMHO is exactly what I'm looking for in these kinds of videos, No bias.. just factual based opinions.
I just recently got back into a Wrangler about 2 months ago and can’t stop watching off-roading videos (both yours and other channels). I just started my build (which will unfortunately be used for the street most of the time) but am always learning about off-roading. Despite not using my Jeep how you use yours, and not being very mechanically inclined, I appreciate the fact you know your shit inside and out and take the time to explain a lot of things to people like myself who aren’t very skilled when it comes to mechanics. Keep up the good work and keep the vids coming 👍🏼
I know this video is a little dated, but I feel you’ll love a cable ox locker, me and my dad have ran one on the front Dana on our cj7 for years (10+ same kit) no issues, definitely worth a try
@@dano8065 zero issues. Have had them installed for about 9 months now and have put about 1,500 road miles on them and some serious trail abuse. I’ve broken 2 front shafts (1 stock and 1 chromoly stub shaft) and 2 sets of u-joints and the rear gears/ARB are perfect.
I had an OX locker, once it was adjusted correctly, I had no issues with it. The cable actuate the locker with a spring so if the cog gear is not aligned with the side gear, it will not cause a problem, and once the wheel is aligned, the spring load snap the gear and lock the diff. Worked very well.
Good comparison video, tons of good information. The only major thing I would add is that welding a diff or using a lunchbox locker does not require replacing the carrier. Putting a tru-trac, auto locker or selectable requires knowing how to setup the gears again after you replace the carrier. Personally, I would never pull a diff to put anything that isn't a true locker inside an axle
Another fantastic channel! You guys rocked at the full size invasion videos. I sat down and showed those videos to my coworkers in Norway, Sweden, Turkey and Greece. And with my brothers back home in Ireland. Great content guys, that all of us have enjoyed, thank you for making the effort to share it. Respect.
I had a Lock-Right automatic (lunch box) locker in my 1993 2wd Toyota pickup, on 205/75 R14 snow tires, no lift. It was the best modification I ever made to any vehicle hands down. People couldn't believe the places I took that little truck.
4 years with Ox, Air actuated lockers front & rear in my XJ... never any issues and no seals to fail, ever wont be dissapointed if you ever pick one up
By far the most easily understandable and informative chanel on this type of content, with shots and footage and editing better then anyone else out there. Keep it up!
Great video. However I think it would've been also good to discuss the different lockers pros/cons for a steering axle and also how having locking hubs can affect locker selection. Some thoughts for another video 😊
I've been watching your content for quite some time. Fairly new to the off-road scene - just a few years now. Somewhat unintentionally my wife and I started exploring local B or C unmaintained roads just for kicks. As the roads became more intense we started to modify or family hauler, starting with tires and going from there. A year ago I bought a dedicated "rig" (not a Jeep). Now looking for a TJ to start playing with. Point of my story, we knew next to nothing and your content has been hugely helpful, a guide even. So much incorrect info out there - really appreciate your content. Keep it up.
I have an OX in my LJ. I opted for 35 spline. Moly shafts and trussed with a Tri-4. Wanted to keep it as strong as possible while keeping it narrow as I could without having to build a set of narrowed 60's (no time). I absolutely love it. Customer service is top notch and and the drive away lock made it for me.
I lincoln locked an old 9inch I had in my CJ. Loved it off road and honestly it was ok on the street as I never travelled far or fast. One saturday went wheeling with ex and two kids and traveled 50km back home on paved roads at 80-90 kmh. Next day went to the bank and made a 180 around a parked car and then a 90 the opposite way into parking spot and snapped an axle shaft. Towed home on wrecker...pulled it apart and it was obvious that it had been half broken for awhile as there was rust on half the breakage. Had buckshot mudders Q78 which were a tall 33-34inch. If you have a spool or lincoln locker hopefully you are over built for the tires you are running.
Nice explanation! I use a Eaton Truetrac in the rear and a Detroit Locker in the front. Steering is heavy in 4X4, but it drives great on the street and does pretty well offroad.
More or less that's what I run I'm running a Torsen LSD in the rear with a Detroit Locker in the front and I think it's the best combination for Street use give you lots of traction on the street if you like to play on the fuel and predictable. You don't lose much off road and you still have excellent turning radius. No electric no Airlines and always works.
That's seems backward to me - wouldn't you want the Detroit in the rear where you most need a 'true' locker and the more street-friendly manner of the TT in the front?
@@donhappel9928 nope had tj with true track front and sparton rear . It did do well . not as well as the other way . to much gas or rpm in a turn it will lock up and do 180 quick . or move little side ways hits icepatch . full locker tire with most traction is pushing and your going that way ready or not .
@@donhappel9928 It does sound backwards, but having the Detroit in the rear makes a short wheelbase push in the corners. Had one in my CJ. Watch John Currie's Video, he runs a selectable in the rear to prevent this. I didn't want the expense or complexity of ARBs. I like the Eaton E-Locker, but again $$$.
Agree what others have said - it's great to see a product review that's not about somebody selling something and that has an open mind. For what it's worth, my "it sees street use only" Xterra came factor with a rear electric locker. Never had any trouble with it. I do use it once in a while, mostly for fun, in deep snow. Works fantastic. As far as the metal shavings go, my take is that if you're making metal with your gears, that you've already got a problem going on...the magnet is only going to pick it up if it's in the fluid or flying around, it won't pick it up if it's just sitting in the bottom of the case. Can't be that strong.
I recently upgraded my limited slip in a ten bolt to an eLocker in a Dana60. I always thought the posi was working good enough, but the eLocker performs amazing. Oh, and moved to a Yukon Grizzly out back. I do things in Rwd that I needed 4wd before. I should have locked up years ago. Thanks for a great video Nate, good content well delivered as usual. Be well.
Well Nate speaking from years of running Eaton E lockers I can say that the metal shaving thing is a myth my lockers have NEVER let my down never failed to engage and never got plugged with metal shavings take it to the bank!!! never go wrong with EATON E LOCKER
Good show! Your opinion is appreciated. Few years ago I purchased a Pro-Rock 44 front for my XJ, w/out outers. That got ordered with the Eaton. Sidenote: your last show on 20$ high steer was great to. However I just spent the last two days in the JY ankle deep in mud because I want that Damm WJ Swap with crossover, and Trumpf buying👍🇺🇸 Thanks for the shows!! 5 Star!!!
Lunchbox PowerTrax in my chrysler 8.25" in XJ with 33's -- no problem except the occasional locking up and unlocking on the street, with a loud bang. Turned my Jeep into a tank, night and day difference in off-road capability.
I have a power Trax no slip in my chrysler 8.25 as well. It's the only lunch box locker with additional synchronizer rings so it doesn't ratchet like crazy when cornering like all the other lunchbox lockers. I've used aussie, powertrax, and spartan lunch box lockers and it's by far my favorite. I wish I bought one for the front instead of the spartan... Works great but very clunky on sharp turns, I'm used to it but everyone thinks my Jeep is falling apart haha
I'm building a 97 rock crawler now. 2004 Rubicon tcase, and 44s front and rear. Chromoly, RCV, and Elockers. 4.56, 37's to start and a Golan 4.6 stroker. Almost went OX. Loved the video
Great video man I have always been kind of a Hobart locker guy and I've welded up all of my rigs for strictly off-road none of my on-road off-road I got a 88 Suzuki samurai that I'm going to put a little mini spool in and see what it does but you talking about the cable lockers that might be ultimately what I do just for the simple fact of what you said you can get those slugs and put them in there and take them out great video loved it man keep it up
Thank you, Nate. Excellent information on lockers and differentials. I've ran the Yukon Grizzly in the rear and Zip air locker up front in my TJ. 7+ years with only o-ring replacement last year. +regular maintenance
I have an eaton trutrac in my ranger, 8.8 with 4.10 and 32s. Now I don't rock crawl or anything like that but I deal with mud, ice, and gravel a lot and I couldn't be happier with it.
Great stuff as usual Nate! I really appreciate that you separate your opinion from the facts. We can disagree and keep it friendly. And you are right about what I have/sue is the best. Every body like to think that whether it's true or not. Stay well and God bless.
I will be starting with Eaton Torson lockers in my 06’ LJ; because I’m currently running 32/11.50’s. Once I go to 35’s and re-gear, I will be changing the rear to the manual OX locker. I really like the idea of the simple direct reliability of it. Just like JEEP 😊
Great video. Really appreciate how you saw that there is a lot of opinion in it and not to take it all as fact. Like you said, hit the nail right on the head, so many people say that their locker was the best locker choice because they have it. That’s just how car people are lol With that being said I went with Eaton E-lockers. My decision was made based off the rubicons. They come factory with E-lockers and they’ve been working for years. So I figured why not E-lockers. This is my first set of lockers so we’ll see how well they hold up. If they do, fantastic, if not then I’m not opposed to going to ARB. Great video man!
Great video Nate. I'm currently running an OX d44 33spline in the rear and a Eaton E-Locker d30 hp 27spline in the front. 00 XJ on 35s. I love the simplicity of the E-Locker(switch, install, quietness) it does take half to a quarter tire turn forward/back to engage. The OX manual shifter is noisy at over 40mph on the street(if you have MTs not as noticeable) but as soon as you engage it in become a Spool. If I'd do it all over again I would do E-Locker's front and rear, but if I was dedicated rock crawler I would do OX all the way. Keep up the Awesome videos👍🏻👍🏻
I have a "lunchbox" locker in my 2wd V8 s-10 and I love it. it all came down to budget for my decision. As far as locker noise goes, I don't hear mine so to me it's quiet. the only issue I've found thus far is if you have to pull the axles back out it's a PITA! you have to re-align the locker the same way it was when you installed it or it won't come back apart. Ask me how I know. And 1 more small thing. When you park with an automatic, and are not on level ground, the vehicle will roll until the teeth mesh, a little farther than expected. To me this isn't a huge issue, just something to be aware of when you 1st install 1, after that you know what to expect.
FYI, The Ox locker has air electric and manual versions. I believe they all use the same cable in the diff. The other end of the cable goes into either a manual switch, electric actuator so there is no electromagnet inside the diff that might attract metal shavings. My understanding is that it not uncommon that people planning on using the manual switch find that the vehicle they are using doesn't have a good place to mount the switch so the return the manual switch and purchase the electric actuator and switch as it is easier to mount the switch. The air version uses a different air cover but interestingly enough does not use any electricity, it has a pneumatic switch.
I run an ox locker in my xj, only one adjustment to make and that’s the free play at the lever. They giver very specific directions on how to do it, also I like the fact that if I wanted I could very simply make my ox electric just by adding the actuator, they still use a cable on their elocker.
Loved the video and you make some solid points. Myself had ARBs and when I had one seal go bad I lost both lockers over an air leak. So personally I will never get arbs again but the lockers are super high quality. Just my two cents and keep up the great videos Nate!!
I can see this channel potentially grow into a multimillion subs channel just cause the subjectiveness and video quality of it. Keep up the good work man
Good stuff Nate I’ve been running a Detroit locker in the rear and lock right in front of of my 73 bronco for last 10+ years they work great but the lock right is locked all the time saving up for a e-locker keep up the good work I’ll keep watching.
There was a bunch of us in a club back in 80 's & early 90's and we all ran Detroit Lockers. Over a 10 year time frame there were no breakages and I replaced one set of springs. I think in a non computerized rig they are the best you can get. I used "E" lockers in the newer Jeep stuff and they worked great. I never hit the button under load. It only takes a second to hit neutral or rolling in a non loaded situation . A friend of mine runs an Ox and so far no issues. Your points are excellent in. my opinion especially on brand loyalty. You have a great channel!!
Got an '03 TJ. Currently stock axles and gears. Looking at OX lockers today. I heard of them a couple years ago and forgot all about them till I saw a video today. I love everything about it. Not sure if I want to waste the money on a Dana 35, but I do it on a 44 for sure.
Another very good, clear and concise video - I'm not into the offroading stuff, but check out your videos now and again because they are good information that can sometimes be applied to the stuff I am interested in. Yup, a conventional, open differential delivers the same torque to each tyre - if one has only 10% of the traction of the other, the tyre witht he good traction will still only get up to that 10%, with the any excess engine torque just leading to wheelspin of the lightly laden tyre. It is important to realise that just because one tyre slips, BOTH are actually getting the same torque! Witht he torsen, that brake technique works well, sometimes using the inertia of the lightly loaded wheel can be enough to get a 'kick' when applying a sudden throttle input.
Ox lockers are the best. Period. That's all we installed at our shop and they're a great family owned company. They have electrical to cable as well that works great. If setup right never had an issue.
I have Detroit lockers now in my jeep on 35" and they are pretty OK both on and offroad. I agree that any larger tire size and they would not perform. I had OX lockers in my old CJ5 build on 40s. Could not ever complain about them except maybe the handles were a little short and my old beat up hands struggled were I mounted them to pull in, but that's my creation with the build. As always great video Nate.
Hi, I forgot to say, the Dana 44 was in a1960 Willeys Jeep, CJ 5, with 33 12.5's, tires. This is a good video. It covers the subject very well good job Nate .
Great video & thank you for all the great information. Please keep the great videos coming, I have not been disappointed with any of your video content.
The fail safe method works with all the OX lockers. The air and electric ox lockers are probably the most reliable on the market. They all use a shift fork and use the same 100% mechanical carrier.
What a great demo, I just picked up a new Beast that has front and rear lockers, I can't wait to get out there and make a video of it just a tad bit much snow on the ground right now...fingers crossed for the weekend forecast 🤞
Nate, for tech content and instructional content, YOU'RE THE BOSS!! RE: Your concern about E-locker electromagnet collecting metal particles, etc. - One might add a serious magnetic drain plug or JBWeld a neodymium magnet to the bottom of the diff housing to reduce the effect.
This is great information thank you. I know many years ago... emphasis on many lol... it was very popular to use a Detroit Locker in the rear. Providing a"true" positive locked differential.... which of course exhibited the things you spoke of when on the street and cornering, creating tire scuff ... then in the front guys would use a limited slip to allow for a little better control in turning but still have the power to both wheels. The hardcorps rigs were locked both front and rear... of course this was in the time before air lockers and those I remember were immediately loved for use in the front so you could turn them on and off. Of course two things, we didn't have many using tires larger than 32 or 33 in diameter, just wasn't any except for a few Tractor tires... and everyone used locking hubs... so now that I am looking to get back into the offroad world. I am really looking at this. A true locker in the rear and a selectable system in the front. Thank you for your insight and information.
The thing that has always confused me is why there are no hydraulic lockers, I mean we have power steering that is hydraulic, we have hydraulic brakes and we used to have hydraulic windows. It is a system that is already in place and taping off the power steering pump is easy to do. Great video thank you .
It is a good idea. However if you snag or air line with arb, oh well. You snag your electric line for the locker, oh well.. You snag your hydraulic line.. damn it i lost my lockers, power steering, and power brakes..
@@muds17 I thought about that but the same can be said about the brakes, steering and clutch on a lot of rigs. I would think it would be easy enough to have an auto-shutoff disconnect like the ones on gas pumps, or make it a master/slave system like on a clutch so it would be independent of the rest of the rig.
@@muds17 I've seen plenty of dudes rip a brake line on the trail, it's not a hard fix and most of the time it's not usually a life threatening situation (it could be though if you're in a sticky spot and manage to do that) We usually run with extra lines and fluid for that very reason though, so it wouldn't be that much harder to keep spares for a hydraulic locker imo.
@@c4onmylip I watched a 97 XJ break a line descending a very large hill. Trail went down, turned for 15' or so then Curved back down. Without brakes he tried to make the turn, but the momentum carried it right into a roll. Went over the side, rolled 3 times, and was stopped, incredibly, by a little 4-5" thick Aspen. Had it not stopped him, he would have rolled another 10-12 times before reaching the bottom of the hill.
Fantastic music selection as always Nate! One of the best things that helps you stand out imo, the first video on BJ you made this was the first thing that sold me on your videos and one of the things that I loved the most! Keep up the good work!
Awesome video, I like my truetrac lockers. For an overlanding vehicle it's great, especially since they are basically maintenance free, no special lubricant additives needed. Like you said you can 2 foot an automatic in technical situations and force a truetrac to lock up.
I have an Aussie locker in the front of my xj; it has no problem locking up, but it occasionally won't unlock on the street. Only issues I've run into this is when I'm turning hard on icy roads, but it's never unpredictable. Money well spent on a high school budget.
I wheeled with a guy once that had a OX locker and he had it converted to a air actuator. I thought it was really cool because the actuator was on the outside of the diff so if you had a failure you could put the fail safe plug in but you don't have to deal with the problematic cable. Plus if any seals went bad it would be a easy repair compared to the ARB. Kind of the best of both lockers. Anyway, I have run almost all types of lockers at one point or another and I think you did a excellent job in this video.
Really like the way you share knowledge, I went with lunchbox lockers in my cruiser, l would say the worst with a manual, it would buck, chirp, and lock/unlock terribly, I switched to an auto (th350) and it’s awesome, I only hear a slight click in parking lots. Keep doing your thing man. If I had the money I’d do ARB front and cable locker rear.
Also running the Torq Locker in the D30 front. Yes some ratcheting in turns and will also bind up a bit sometimes in very tight parking lot maneuvers. Off road its a beast.
Love my ox. Flip a lever. They are locked for years if you leave the lever flip. No compressor to keep running. No overheating electric diffs. Just simple mechanical locking.
Your videos are great, and I respect the production value and the honesty of your videos, I have had the best experience with mechanical lockers (cable) such as on a lot of 20th century soviet off road vehicles and G wagens, I’ve never had one fail worst case scenario the cable stretches and the locker is only partially engaged, but I’ve neither had an airlocker fail but on the ARB locker I have had differential casings pull apart understrain on 37s
great video!! I love the idea of the OX locker but pricey. I went with the Yukon Grizzly lockers, never even need to think about it it off-road and they'll most likely outlast the Jeep with my type of off-road riding. On road has a few small issues that you get use to but overall I'm 100% satisfied with them.
I agree lunch box lockers are garbage. Air lockers are by for in my opinion the best for what I do, street and off road. I haven’t been a fan of e-lockers because of the solenoid at the differential and they can hang you up. Detroit and grizzly lockers ‘mechanical’ are my next choice over air. Great video!
I agree with almost everything you said. I've used the "lunchbox" style, factory JK elockers, ARB airlockers and eaton elockers. The ARB has the strongest engagement mechanism of the lot. But all have been used and abused on 37s and 40s. And none have let me down. You'd break an axle or gear set 90% of the time before you bust a locker. If you are building a bullet proof full off road competition build I'd say ARB are the go. But for the other 95% of people it'd be best to use what ever suit your budget or build.
There's a lot of "this is my opinion" and unlike almost all other locker comparison videos there was no "this locker is trash". Your opinion boiled down to "they all do something different, find one you like and use it". A very good and informative video!
Thanks buddy 👍
Agree 100%, nice to hear pros and cons about all, not just "this one is junk, this one is superior"..just good useful info on all! Good jod!
I have a front Eaton locker and it works great except in northwest mud. The design makes it unlock when traveling forward and reverse till it will lock again, to get out of a mud pit. Most situations it works fine but not if you have to do short burst of forward and reverse. My brother runs an ox cable and I really like it. Just like a motorcycle throttle cable, the guys that dont maintain it have problems.
@@DirtLifestyle a lot of european 4x4 army,had cable/handle lockers,like the haflinger,ect..front,rear,& centre lockers..
Installed prices for different options is always a consideration in making decisions like this
My god dude you were meant for this YT stuff. Simple straight to the point with a production quality better than some of the bigger offroad names on YT. Hats off to you man. I am digging the content.
Thanks! I appreciate the huge compliments! 👍
@@DirtLifestyle Hey man I tell it how it is. You Channel is one of a few I can stand. No BS filler, and on point with facts. on top of that
you are Honest.
@@mikehancho5286 100% I learn something in every video. It may be how to approach a line or how you can probably afford to suck a little at welding, as you figure it out.
@@donewhiskey Same here. I lost a lot of my wheeling skills when the wife,and I started to have kids. They are 6,and 3 now. My JKUR is finally to the point I would trust it taking the family out on the local trails. These vids especially the slow motion me remember how to pic lines, and technique. Also the fabrication is extremely helpful since I am 100% self taught , and just picked up a Omnie Pro 220 welder to learn. I have a truss kit, LCA skids, and track bar brackets waiting to get burn on. his vids help alot. I share most of his vids my Jeep club since we are predicated on the beginner level side here in WA.
Mike Hancho I totally agree
You know your an offroad addict when something that keeps you up at night is wondering if metal shavings will collect on the electromagnet on lockers lol :D
Lol
@@DirtLifestyle you can solve that issue by having a strong magnet on your plug for the diff housing - the electromagnet is only on when you have the locker actuated, and it shouldn't be strong enough to 'steal' the metal shavings from the magnet on your plug
@@DirtLifestyle I will test this theory out. I did the Eaton E-Locker in my D-35 last year along with new 4:88 gears and I'm about to do an inspection to see how the gears are wearing in.
There's nothing worst than shavings on my magnet!! HaHaHa
@@this_tj_krawls What's the verdict?
Love my Detroit's. They are both over 25 years old and still working.
I've been running a Detroit for a few years in the rear with an ARB front. Just in the process of changing it for an Ashcroft (air) now for a couple reasons. First, the Detroit really made me push the front in tight turns to the point where last year on the Dusy (very tight trail) a friend in a similar truck with 10" more wheelbase was making turns I couldn't. Second, I've broken a couple axle shafts in it and it always seems to shock load the remaining axle and twist it in the process. I can't categorically state that's due to the Detroit - it could be both shafts were twisting splines and I only saw it when tearing down to repair, though I've had several other people tell me they've seen the same thing with a Detroit.
A good friend of mine ran the manual ox locker for years. Never had any issues. He wheeled that thing hard. Hes snapped ring and pinnions and chromoly axle shafts and the locker held up. Then again he's also a mountain biker and knows how to set up cables.
PiperProductionsInc. 😂😂😂
I had an Ox Locker for 10 years in a D60 front end. Never had an issue hammered it every summer Moab / Colorado / New Mexico.
I kind of love that you have so many carriers just laying around for your examples.... I HAVE WANTED TO TRY AN OX FOR YEARS!! Eeeeeeeveryones all like, "ARBS OR NOTHING". That settles it. When I lock up the LJ, im getting OX. For the same reasons you listed, the cable seems like such a simple straightforward solution. I've thought so for years. Thanks for the video man. Great stuff.
Only locker i've ever owned was a detroit "soft locker" (what a horrible name for that locker). Always worked great! Man it had some squirly road manners sometimes. I'd run one again, but ive heard the in coil suspensions they're even worse (i had it on my YJ, on leaves). That thing scared the hell out of me the first time in unloaded. KLANG! and practically sent me into another lane of traffic. Ya get used to it though. :P
Running a Lokka in the rear of my XJ sitting on 33s and an auto. DD with 400-500miles a week on pavement and this performs real well. Off-road - my little XJ impresses everyone watching. I'm happy and I'm not broke.
I have OX lockers front and rear and have never had a single issue. They have been awesome and the the positive lock and unlock at the moving of a lever is the best part.
I never understood why these aren't more popular.
I like how your stating the facts about the lockers and saying in my experience and not just saying only one locker is good and the rest are trash.
Your line at end of video...."Just think about what works best for you and what works best for your trouble shooting abilities " great line doesnt get more to the whole point of a build then that. At the end of the day we have to be our own mechanics on the trail bcs that random guy in a video who told you what you liked was crap isnt gonna show up to fix your rig when you install what he preached. Your one of the good guys anyone at any skill level will benefit from your vids. Thanks for putting this out there.
Thank you for the kind words 👍
I run E-lockers front and rear on my rig and in general I like them. The only two downsides to an E-Locker is rotation to engage and having an electric wire which is relatively exposed to water and mud at the diff pumpkin. I’ve not had the wire fail but I figure it’s a matter time if you go threw wet terrain. Engagement rotation just forces you to plan ahead and engage your lockers before you hit an obstacle otherwise you’ll have to back up, engage and re-approach. If you engage once you’re stuck you risk a bit of stress on the axle when one tire is spinning and the other isn’t when suddenly the rotation is complete and both shafts lock. Always best to lock when stopped and get the engagement with both tires rotating at the same rpm
Totally want OX lockers!
I have dual manual cable lockers in mine. You hit the nail on the head, only issues you're ever going to see is something with adjustment. I've had them for years and never a single issue...after adjusted right.
Watching this I could almost smell the gear oil lol
Changed a Ford 9 inch at a racetrack On a long weekend race event. No good change of clothes smelled like gear oil all weekend. Oh to be young and stupid again LOL
Just saw your comment about smelling the oil and made my stomach turn. Ive spent the last few days rebuilding my front end. Smells so burnt im still smelling it.
As always, great video! When I lived in America, I had a D2 with a Detroit auto locker in the rear and a TruTrac in the front. With the Traction Control in the D2, in worked amazingly with the front TruTrac. A torsen LSD multiplies the traction from side to side, so when a wheel lifts, the torsen cannot multiply 0 traction. However once it gets working with the Traction Control, its by far the closest you can get to the full performance of a locker in my opinion. Now that I'm back in New Zealand, I run a D1 with an auto locker in the back and an E-Locker up front. The E-Locker is awesome, my one has a sealed solenoid so there's no issue of detail shavings building up on the magnet, and I run super strong magnets on my drain and fill plugs to keep any filings out of the important parts! Been very reliable so far.
I've known a lot of Rover guys who love their TruTracs, especially as you mentioned in the D2 with it's TC to help 'brake' a lifted tire. But I've also wheeled beside basically identical trucks to mine (D1 vs RRC for example) and seen my true lockers (ARB front/Detroit rear) give me an easier time than the TruTracs. I think they are a great option until you get into more serious crawling where having a tire fully in the air is more likely.
Very helpful , you just kept me from making a
“Lesson Learned” costly experience mistake . I’d like to tell you I built my rig or at least helped , but I don’t have the time, so yeah I dropped it off at a shop 🤭. With 40 Super Swampers on front 60/rear Sterling 10.5 ,, the rear limited slip sucks , barely works , so I’m going to have to get a real locker . I went with an Eaton E-Locker up front , tried it out for the first time today , worked great !! But the rear is disappointing , it’s basically a 1 tire fryer 😡. Just found your channel a few days ago , your videos are always very helpful, I was about to order a Detroit Truetrac,, worm gear style cause I’m not concerned with the rear being totally locked up or 50/50 torque,, but after you said anything over a 35 inch it’s basically crappy limited slip that won’t work half the time , I think I’m just gonna go with a Grizzly and be done with it . Thanks for the info
Your outro comments were great - summed it up - takes the stress out of the decisions. Cheers Nate.
I really like the benefits of the Ox locker. I can't wait to see you do an install. Great job👍
So well laid out, well done dude. I appreciate the bluntness and IMHO is exactly what I'm looking for in these kinds of videos, No bias.. just factual based opinions.
I just recently got back into a Wrangler about 2 months ago and can’t stop watching off-roading videos (both yours and other channels). I just started my build (which will unfortunately be used for the street most of the time) but am always learning about off-roading. Despite not using my Jeep how you use yours, and not being very mechanically inclined, I appreciate the fact you know your shit inside and out and take the time to explain a lot of things to people like myself who aren’t very skilled when it comes to mechanics. Keep up the good work and keep the vids coming 👍🏼
Thank you very much! I appreciate you taking the time to rewrite a positive comment 👍
Very helpful video. Yea you should make a video of the ox locker
I know this video is a little dated, but I feel you’ll love a cable ox locker, me and my dad have ran one on the front Dana on our cj7 for years (10+ same kit) no issues, definitely worth a try
OX locker is the way!!!
Just ordered an ARB and a set of Yukon gears this week! Can’t wait!
How are they working out? I'm about to pull the trigger on 4.56 Yukons and a ARB for the rear in my Xj.
@@dano8065 zero issues. Have had them installed for about 9 months now and have put about 1,500 road miles on them and some serious trail abuse. I’ve broken 2 front shafts (1 stock and 1 chromoly stub shaft) and 2 sets of u-joints and the rear gears/ARB are perfect.
I had an OX locker, once it was adjusted correctly, I had no issues with it. The cable actuate the locker with a spring so if the cog gear is not aligned with the side gear, it will not cause a problem, and once the wheel is aligned, the spring load snap the gear and lock the diff. Worked very well.
Good comparison video, tons of good information. The only major thing I would add is that welding a diff or using a lunchbox locker does not require replacing the carrier. Putting a tru-trac, auto locker or selectable requires knowing how to setup the gears again after you replace the carrier. Personally, I would never pull a diff to put anything that isn't a true locker inside an axle
Another fantastic channel! You guys rocked at the full size invasion videos. I sat down and showed those videos to my coworkers in Norway, Sweden, Turkey and Greece. And with my brothers back home in Ireland. Great content guys, that all of us have enjoyed, thank you for making the effort to share it. Respect.
I had a Lock-Right automatic (lunch box) locker in my 1993 2wd Toyota pickup, on 205/75 R14 snow tires, no lift. It was the best modification I ever made to any vehicle hands down. People couldn't believe the places I took that little truck.
4 years with Ox, Air actuated lockers front & rear in my XJ... never any issues and no seals to fail, ever
wont be dissapointed if you ever pick one up
By far the most easily understandable and informative chanel on this type of content, with shots and footage and editing better then anyone else out there. Keep it up!
Thank you!
This is one of the most informative videos on this subject, especially talking about tire size. Very helpful thanks!
This may be the best and simplest breakdowns I have seen of varying types of diffs and lockers. Well done friend.
Ox lockers are where it’s at. My previous Jeep had one in the rear and it was wonderful.
Ran ox cable operated in my rig. That thing was freakishly good. 375hp granny gears deep water, rocks on 35” tires full size truck
Great video. However I think it would've been also good to discuss the different lockers pros/cons for a steering axle and also how having locking hubs can affect locker selection. Some thoughts for another video 😊
I've been watching your content for quite some time. Fairly new to the off-road scene - just a few years now. Somewhat unintentionally my wife and I started exploring local B or C unmaintained roads just for kicks. As the roads became more intense we started to modify or family hauler, starting with tires and going from there. A year ago I bought a dedicated "rig" (not a Jeep). Now looking for a TJ to start playing with. Point of my story, we knew next to nothing and your content has been hugely helpful, a guide even. So much incorrect info out there - really appreciate your content. Keep it up.
Youre right. Im a drifter and i DO love this!
Lol
I've had an OX in my jeep with a d35 for 4 years now and it's been flawless operation so far I love it!
I just like the way you put things. Not to hard to fugue things out what works for you is best for you. Great job
I have an OX in my LJ. I opted for 35 spline. Moly shafts and trussed with a Tri-4. Wanted to keep it as strong as possible while keeping it narrow as I could without having to build a set of narrowed 60's (no time). I absolutely love it. Customer service is top notch and and the drive away lock made it for me.
I lincoln locked an old 9inch I had in my CJ. Loved it off road and honestly it was ok on the street as I never travelled far or fast. One saturday went wheeling with ex and two kids and traveled 50km back home on paved roads at 80-90 kmh. Next day went to the bank and made a 180 around a parked car and then a 90 the opposite way into parking spot and snapped an axle shaft. Towed home on wrecker...pulled it apart and it was obvious that it had been half broken for awhile as there was rust on half the breakage. Had buckshot mudders Q78 which were a tall 33-34inch. If you have a spool or lincoln locker hopefully you are over built for the tires you are running.
Nice explanation! I use a Eaton Truetrac in the rear and a Detroit Locker in the front. Steering is heavy in 4X4, but it drives great on the street and does pretty well offroad.
More or less that's what I run I'm running a Torsen LSD in the rear with a Detroit Locker in the front and I think it's the best combination for Street use give you lots of traction on the street if you like to play on the fuel and predictable. You don't lose much off road and you still have excellent turning radius. No electric no Airlines and always works.
That's seems backward to me - wouldn't you want the Detroit in the rear where you most need a 'true' locker and the more street-friendly manner of the TT in the front?
@@donhappel9928 nope had tj with true track front and sparton rear .
It did do well . not as well as the other way . to much gas or rpm in a turn it will lock up and do 180 quick . or move little side ways hits icepatch . full locker tire with most traction is pushing and your going that way ready or not .
@@donhappel9928 if u can get front over it u can drag the rest behind u .
@@donhappel9928 It does sound backwards, but having the Detroit in the rear makes a short wheelbase push in the corners. Had one in my CJ. Watch John Currie's Video, he runs a selectable in the rear to prevent this. I didn't want the expense or complexity of ARBs. I like the Eaton E-Locker, but again $$$.
Agree what others have said - it's great to see a product review that's not about somebody selling something and that has an open mind. For what it's worth, my "it sees street use only" Xterra came factor with a rear electric locker. Never had any trouble with it. I do use it once in a while, mostly for fun, in deep snow. Works fantastic. As far as the metal shavings go, my take is that if you're making metal with your gears, that you've already got a problem going on...the magnet is only going to pick it up if it's in the fluid or flying around, it won't pick it up if it's just sitting in the bottom of the case. Can't be that strong.
I recently upgraded my limited slip in a ten bolt to an eLocker in a Dana60. I always thought the posi was working good enough, but the eLocker performs amazing. Oh, and moved to a Yukon Grizzly out back. I do things in Rwd that I needed 4wd before. I should have locked up years ago. Thanks for a great video Nate, good content well delivered as usual. Be well.
Well Nate
speaking from years of running Eaton E lockers
I can say that the metal shaving thing is a myth
my lockers have NEVER let my down never failed to engage and never got plugged with metal shavings
take it to the bank!!! never go wrong with EATON E LOCKER
Good show! Your opinion is appreciated.
Few years ago I purchased a Pro-Rock 44 front for my XJ, w/out outers. That got ordered with the Eaton.
Sidenote: your last show on 20$ high steer was great to. However I just spent the last two days in the JY ankle deep in mud because I want that Damm WJ Swap with crossover, and Trumpf buying👍🇺🇸
Thanks for the shows!! 5 Star!!!
I've been there! JY experiences in Washington typically include water 😂
@@DirtLifestyle I had to do some excavation work also to get the scissor jack under it to get at lower ball joints.That sucked😂🍻
Lunchbox PowerTrax in my chrysler 8.25" in XJ with 33's -- no problem except the occasional locking up and unlocking on the street, with a loud bang. Turned my Jeep into a tank, night and day difference in off-road capability.
I have a power Trax no slip in my chrysler 8.25 as well. It's the only lunch box locker with additional synchronizer rings so it doesn't ratchet like crazy when cornering like all the other lunchbox lockers. I've used aussie, powertrax, and spartan lunch box lockers and it's by far my favorite. I wish I bought one for the front instead of the spartan... Works great but very clunky on sharp turns, I'm used to it but everyone thinks my Jeep is falling apart haha
I'm building a 97 rock crawler now. 2004 Rubicon tcase, and 44s front and rear. Chromoly, RCV, and Elockers. 4.56, 37's to start and a Golan 4.6 stroker. Almost went OX. Loved the video
Great video man I have always been kind of a Hobart locker guy and I've welded up all of my rigs for strictly off-road none of my on-road off-road I got a 88 Suzuki samurai that I'm going to put a little mini spool in and see what it does but you talking about the cable lockers that might be ultimately what I do just for the simple fact of what you said you can get those slugs and put them in there and take them out great video loved it man keep it up
Thank you, Nate. Excellent information on lockers and differentials.
I've ran the Yukon Grizzly in the rear and Zip air locker up front in my TJ. 7+ years with only o-ring replacement last year. +regular maintenance
I have an eaton trutrac in my ranger, 8.8 with 4.10 and 32s. Now I don't rock crawl or anything like that but I deal with mud, ice, and gravel a lot and I couldn't be happier with it.
Great stuff as usual Nate! I really appreciate that you separate your opinion from the facts. We can disagree and keep it friendly. And you are right about what I have/sue is the best. Every body like to think that whether it's true or not. Stay well and God bless.
I will be starting with Eaton Torson lockers in my 06’ LJ; because I’m currently running 32/11.50’s. Once I go to 35’s and re-gear, I will be changing the rear to the manual OX locker. I really like the idea of the simple direct reliability of it. Just like JEEP 😊
Great video. Really appreciate how you saw that there is a lot of opinion in it and not to take it all as fact. Like you said, hit the nail right on the head, so many people say that their locker was the best locker choice because they have it. That’s just how car people are lol
With that being said I went with Eaton E-lockers. My decision was made based off the rubicons. They come factory with E-lockers and they’ve been working for years. So I figured why not E-lockers. This is my first set of lockers so we’ll see how well they hold up. If they do, fantastic, if not then I’m not opposed to going to ARB. Great video man!
Great video Nate.
I'm currently running an OX d44 33spline in the rear and a Eaton E-Locker d30 hp 27spline in the front. 00 XJ on 35s. I love the simplicity of the E-Locker(switch, install, quietness) it does take half to a quarter tire turn forward/back to engage. The OX manual shifter is noisy at over 40mph on the street(if you have MTs not as noticeable) but as soon as you engage it in become a Spool. If I'd do it all over again I would do E-Locker's front and rear, but if I was dedicated rock crawler I would do OX all the way. Keep up the Awesome videos👍🏻👍🏻
I have a "lunchbox" locker in my 2wd V8 s-10 and I love it. it all came down to budget for my decision. As far as locker noise goes, I don't hear mine so to me it's quiet. the only issue I've found thus far is if you have to pull the axles back out it's a PITA! you have to re-align the locker the same way it was when you installed it or it won't come back apart. Ask me how I know. And 1 more small thing. When you park with an automatic, and are not on level ground, the vehicle will roll until the teeth mesh, a little farther than expected. To me this isn't a huge issue, just something to be aware of when you 1st install 1, after that you know what to expect.
this is actually huge for me thanks for sharing this. I haven't installed mine yet and that's good to know for the hilly streets of SD
FYI, The Ox locker has air electric and manual versions. I believe they all use the same cable in the diff. The other end of the cable goes into either a manual switch, electric actuator so there is no electromagnet inside the diff that might attract metal shavings. My understanding is that it not uncommon that people planning on using the manual switch find that the vehicle they are using doesn't have a good place to mount the switch so the return the manual switch and purchase the electric actuator and switch as it is easier to mount the switch. The air version uses a different air cover but interestingly enough does not use any electricity, it has a pneumatic switch.
Best off-road channel on UA-cam.
Much appreciated!
I run an ox locker in my xj, only one adjustment to make and that’s the free play at the lever. They giver very specific directions on how to do it, also I like the fact that if I wanted I could very simply make my ox electric just by adding the actuator, they still use a cable on their elocker.
Loved the video and you make some solid points. Myself had ARBs and when I had one seal go bad I lost both lockers over an air leak. So personally I will never get arbs again but the lockers are super high quality. Just my two cents and keep up the great videos Nate!!
Nate you’ve simplified lockers from my Perspective thank you
Great! I did my Job! 😁
Yup running my ARB's off my Powertank also. Clean setup over the compressor
dude love it. im really lovin your intro videos also. I could probably watch that all day. keep it up
Thank you , I learn a lot today. I like your honest opinions! Yours is base from real, true experience. Aloha
I can see this channel potentially grow into a multimillion subs channel just cause the subjectiveness and video quality of it. Keep up the good work man
Thank you! I hope you are right!
@@DirtLifestyle no man don't hope, your hard work will pay off one day
Had a 2009 jeep JKU with a Detroit Trutrac up front and Detroit Locker in the rear and loved the setup off road.
I have Detroit lockers front and rear in my 93 YJ. Great video Nate....! Thanks for your hard work.
I have the same on my 95 YJ. Have you ever had any issues. I currently do.
Good stuff Nate I’ve been running a Detroit locker in the rear and lock right in front of of my 73 bronco for last 10+ years they work great but the lock right is locked all the time saving up for a e-locker keep up the good work I’ll keep watching.
There was a bunch of us in a club back in 80 's & early 90's and we all ran Detroit Lockers. Over a 10 year time frame there were no breakages and I replaced one set of springs. I think in a non computerized rig they are the best you can get. I used "E" lockers in the newer Jeep stuff and they worked great. I never hit the button under load. It only takes a second to hit neutral or rolling in a non loaded situation . A friend of mine runs an Ox and so far no issues. Your points are excellent in. my opinion especially on brand loyalty. You have a great channel!!
And I am NOW educated on lockers!! Thank you!! Great video!!!
Nice video Nate thank you. You answered a lot of my questions and your'e ending comments are what I needed to hear.
Got an '03 TJ. Currently stock axles and gears.
Looking at OX lockers today. I heard of them a couple years ago and forgot all about them till I saw a video today.
I love everything about it.
Not sure if I want to waste the money on a Dana 35, but I do it on a 44 for sure.
Another very good, clear and concise video - I'm not into the offroading stuff, but check out your videos now and again because they are good information that can sometimes be applied to the stuff I am interested in.
Yup, a conventional, open differential delivers the same torque to each tyre - if one has only 10% of the traction of the other, the tyre witht he good traction will still only get up to that 10%, with the any excess engine torque just leading to wheelspin of the lightly laden tyre.
It is important to realise that just because one tyre slips, BOTH are actually getting the same torque!
Witht he torsen, that brake technique works well, sometimes using the inertia of the lightly loaded wheel can be enough to get a 'kick' when applying a sudden throttle input.
Ox lockers are the best. Period. That's all we installed at our shop and they're a great family owned company. They have electrical to cable as well that works great. If setup right never had an issue.
I have a Detroit in the rear, Dana 70. And ARB up front in the 44. Love them both.
I have Detroit lockers now in my jeep on 35" and they are pretty OK both on and offroad. I agree that any larger tire size and they would not perform. I had OX lockers in my old CJ5 build on 40s. Could not ever complain about them except maybe the handles were a little short and my old beat up hands struggled were I mounted them to pull in, but that's my creation with the build. As always great video Nate.
Hi, I forgot to say, the Dana 44 was in a1960 Willeys Jeep, CJ 5, with 33 12.5's, tires. This is a good video. It covers the subject very well good job Nate .
Right on! Totally agree with that last bit there about whats right for you. Love you're work, Keep it up. You have a fan here at the holy land.
Great video & thank you for all the great information. Please keep the great videos coming, I have not been disappointed with any of your video content.
Excellent video!! It took me 5 Jeep’s and a few friends builds to figure this out!!
The fail safe method works with all the OX lockers. The air and electric ox lockers are probably the most reliable on the market. They all use a shift fork and use the same 100% mechanical carrier.
What a great demo, I just picked up a new Beast that has front and rear lockers, I can't wait to get out there and make a video of it just a tad bit much snow on the ground right now...fingers crossed for the weekend forecast 🤞
Nate, for tech content and instructional content, YOU'RE THE BOSS!!
RE: Your concern about E-locker electromagnet collecting metal particles, etc. - One might add a serious magnetic drain plug or JBWeld a neodymium magnet to the bottom of the diff housing to reduce the effect.
Thanks man 👍
This is great information thank you. I know many years ago... emphasis on many lol... it was very popular to use a Detroit Locker in the rear. Providing a"true" positive locked differential.... which of course exhibited the things you spoke of when on the street and cornering, creating tire scuff ... then in the front guys would use a limited slip to allow for a little better control in turning but still have the power to both wheels. The hardcorps rigs were locked both front and rear... of course this was in the time before air lockers and those I remember were immediately loved for use in the front so you could turn them on and off. Of course two things, we didn't have many using tires larger than 32 or 33 in diameter, just wasn't any except for a few Tractor tires... and everyone used locking hubs... so now that I am looking to get back into the offroad world. I am really looking at this. A true locker in the rear and a selectable system in the front. Thank you for your insight and information.
Well done! best video I've seen on lockers
The thing that has always confused me is why there are no hydraulic lockers, I mean we have power steering that is hydraulic, we have hydraulic brakes and we used to have hydraulic windows. It is a system that is already in place and taping off the power steering pump is easy to do. Great video thank you .
David Star million dollar idea
It is a good idea. However if you snag or air line with arb, oh well. You snag your electric line for the locker, oh well.. You snag your hydraulic line.. damn it i lost my lockers, power steering, and power brakes..
@@muds17 I thought about that but the same can be said about the brakes, steering and clutch on a lot of rigs. I would think it would be easy enough to have an auto-shutoff disconnect like the ones on gas pumps, or make it a master/slave system like on a clutch so it would be independent of the rest of the rig.
@@muds17 I've seen plenty of dudes rip a brake line on the trail, it's not a hard fix and most of the time it's not usually a life threatening situation (it could be though if you're in a sticky spot and manage to do that) We usually run with extra lines and fluid for that very reason though, so it wouldn't be that much harder to keep spares for a hydraulic locker imo.
@@c4onmylip I watched a 97 XJ break a line descending a very large hill. Trail went down, turned for 15' or so then Curved back down. Without brakes he tried to make the turn, but the momentum carried it right into a roll. Went over the side, rolled 3 times, and was stopped, incredibly, by a little 4-5" thick Aspen. Had it not stopped him, he would have rolled another 10-12 times before reaching the bottom of the hill.
Fantastic music selection as always Nate! One of the best things that helps you stand out imo, the first video on BJ you made this was the first thing that sold me on your videos and one of the things that I loved the most! Keep up the good work!
Thanks buddy! That means alot 👍
Awesome video, I like my truetrac lockers. For an overlanding vehicle it's great, especially since they are basically maintenance free, no special lubricant additives needed. Like you said you can 2 foot an automatic in technical situations and force a truetrac to lock up.
Ashton Marie Franklin
How does it do on the street in snow or ice?
You nailed it on the "marriage" sentiments at the end! Great video as usual, thanks Nate!
Nothing better then an ox locker when installed the right way.
I have an Aussie locker in the front of my xj; it has no problem locking up, but it occasionally won't unlock on the street. Only issues I've run into this is when I'm turning hard on icy roads, but it's never unpredictable. Money well spent on a high school budget.
I wheeled with a guy once that had a OX locker and he had it converted to a air actuator. I thought it was really cool because the actuator was on the outside of the diff so if you had a failure you could put the fail safe plug in but you don't have to deal with the problematic cable. Plus if any seals went bad it would be a easy repair compared to the ARB. Kind of the best of both lockers. Anyway, I have run almost all types of lockers at one point or another and I think you did a excellent job in this video.
Really like the way you share knowledge, I went with lunchbox lockers in my cruiser, l would say the worst with a manual, it would buck, chirp, and lock/unlock terribly, I switched to an auto (th350) and it’s awesome, I only hear a slight click in parking lots. Keep doing your thing man. If I had the money I’d do ARB front and cable locker rear.
Currently running a Torq Locker in the D30. So far no issues, handled Moab just fine. Definitely got my money outta it lol
Happy with mine too once it broke in some .
Also running the Torq Locker in the D30 front. Yes some ratcheting in turns and will also bind up a bit sometimes in very tight parking lot maneuvers. Off road its a beast.
Love mine too
Love my ox. Flip a lever. They are locked for years if you leave the lever flip. No compressor to keep running. No overheating electric diffs. Just simple mechanical locking.
Your videos are great, and I respect the production value and the honesty of your videos, I have had the best experience with mechanical lockers (cable) such as on a lot of 20th century soviet off road vehicles and G wagens, I’ve never had one fail worst case scenario the cable stretches and the locker is only partially engaged, but I’ve neither had an airlocker fail but on the ARB locker I have had differential casings pull apart understrain on 37s
You nailed it man, great info! Now got a better view on what options to go with !!! Worth subscribing to your Chanel !!!
great video!! I love the idea of the OX locker but pricey. I went with the Yukon Grizzly lockers, never even need to think about it it off-road and they'll most likely outlast the Jeep with my type of off-road riding. On road has a few small issues that you get use to but overall I'm 100% satisfied with them.
I agree lunch box lockers are garbage. Air lockers are by for in my opinion the best for what I do, street and off road. I haven’t been a fan of e-lockers because of the solenoid at the differential and they can hang you up. Detroit and grizzly lockers ‘mechanical’ are my next choice over air. Great video!
I agree with almost everything you said. I've used the "lunchbox" style, factory JK elockers, ARB airlockers and eaton elockers. The ARB has the strongest engagement mechanism of the lot. But all have been used and abused on 37s and 40s. And none have let me down. You'd break an axle or gear set 90% of the time before you bust a locker. If you are building a bullet proof full off road competition build I'd say ARB are the go. But for the other 95% of people it'd be best to use what ever suit your budget or build.