ARB Air Locker Versus Eaton ELocker (Watch Before You Buy!) | Inside Line
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- Опубліковано 3 тра 2024
- Selectable lockers truly give you the best of both worlds, but they are not without faults. When it comes to aftermarket selectable lockers, two of the most popular are the ARB Air Locker and the Eaton ELocker. Each works as an open differential when not engaged and a spool when you turn it on. We've had good and bad experiences with both. In this video, we will showcase some of the Pros and Cons of each locker and go over the failures we've experienced.
Nitto Trail Grappler: www.nittotire.com/light-truck...
ARB Air Locker: www.northridge4x4.com/part/rd...
Eaton ELocker: eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-239...
ARB 12V Air Compressor: www.northridge4x4.com/part/co...
JCR Compressor Mount: www.jcroffroad.com/product/JL...
Low Range 4x4: www.lowrange4x4.com/
00:00 ARB Air Locker Vs Eaton ELocker4
00:16 Jeep Gladiator Dynatrac ProRock XD60 axles
00:38 Eaton ELocker problems
01:32 How the Eaton ELocker4 Works
03:31 ARB Air Locker Pros, Cons, and Install
05:44 Air Locker wiring and plumbing
07:59 Jeep Wrangler JK, JL, and Gladiator Electric Lockers
09:02 Ultimate Dana 60 Eaton ELocker
09:21 Wrap Up
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Great non bias information. Thanks, your helped reassure my recent decision.
I’ve had Eaton E lockers for my JKU for almost 5 years now. I’ve had 1 failure and it was an electromagnetic plate, just wouldn’t engage, idk if it wasn’t getting current or what. Eaton sent me out a replacement plate free of charge, I took things apart and replaced it in 5 minutes. Super easy fix. That was nearly 2 years ago and haven’t had another issue since. I’ve been very happy with mine, and fortunate I suppose.
I hadn't found anything online about the 4-pinion style locker failing before I got mine. It makes me wonder if they changed something during COVID and that's why all of the failures are happening. Seems to be mostly 35-spline Dana 60 lockers.
Nice video with lots of great information.
72 sand hollow trails on my ARB running 42s. Hasn't skipped a beat, unlike my 1 trail eaton 🤣
I hope the ARB air locker will better serve you. You make a great point regarding the cons of an air locker and by the end the day I would rather deal with a clogged or leaking air line than broken gears inside the differential. Good luck and I can't wait to watch your next video.
He has modified Jeep axle which will transfer more torque to differential than it was designed for so no wonder teeths will fail after certain period. there are different types of elocker available from eaton hence need to explore more in market. Arb is much more expensive
@@rohanpanval3387
Actually, he has a set of aftermarket 1ton crate axles(XD60s) from Dynatrac optioned with the Eaton E-Lockers. These are rated to be very strong and more than capable of handling the torque coming from the gas V6 and 40" tires but bad luck happens sometimes not just once but twice in a row.
Good choice I’ve been using Arb 15 years never had a issue. The only thing I replace the seals twice.👍
Had ARB in a Suzuki for 7 years. Got a leak at the airline once. Maybe something pinched in under the body. Found and just taped it, good to go again. No sealings failed. Now i have a JK and factory lockers, which are going to be swapped out for ARB the day, they fail. And they will fail. Only a matter of time. Biggest pro for Airlockers: they open quicker and they open when they fail. Biggest concern about factory lockers: they fail engaged. Seen this happen at a couple of times. It is possible to continue a trip without lockers.
Also from my experience: you are sure if the airlocker is engaged when the compressor is quiet. You hear it working.
I was very happy to see the little tidbit about the UD60 eaton lockers when I watched this video.. I just put the first 40 miles on my UD60s with E lockers lol!
Thanks mate for the vid and nice gladiator! I have a arb air locker in my my jk, performs great however i am starting to get diff oil coming up my air line when releasing the pressure after a few obstacles on the trails, i suspect as the diff gets hotter, it creates more pressure pushing oil up and I've done some sort of seal....A pain i'll have to live with for the moment, cheers
When you made the jump to the Dynatracs, was there an off the shelf solution for a driveshaft or did you have to get a custom one made up? Your videos are awesome. Lots of good info.. Subbed!
The driveshafts come from JE Reel. Once I had the axles in, I measure for the shafts and they made them to the length I needed. They do offer bolt-in drivelines for those running stock axles, but I believe they prefer you to measure when you've swapped in axles. Only took around a week from the time I measured to the time I got them installed. JE Reel is in California and I'm in North Carolina.
Thank you!@@DrivingLine
Seems to me it’s only on the wonton axles since they did away with the 4 pin setup that ramps up. I’m hoping I won’t have issues with mine when i get it installed. It seems like a reliable setup for a standard axle jl.
I am thinking more and more about a auto locker by Torque Masters after reading about all the issues with E lockers and air lockers!
i have a Eaton e locker in my front dana 60 has been perfect for a few years, rear 14bolt only arb was making lockers back in the day so that's what I run and absolutely no issues there either. if i had to do it over id go arb both ends though that way you can carry just a couple spare parts like a solenoid and maybe a few feet of air line that would be able to be used if either end had any issues.
Great video! What wheels and tires are you running at 5:29 in the video?
Thanks! Those are from Trail Ready. They are the 17x8.5 HD Beadlocks with the slim ring.
I had two piston seals fail on the ARB on my TJ, they would last about 20k miles then the seal would rip out. From my experience with industrial hydraulics my guess is that the seals are creating a dry zone that makes the seal have high friction which eventually rips it out.
As far as the eaton failure, the gear looks like they went to MIM manufacturing so it is significantly weaker than a forged piece that I believe they used to use, mim is significantly cheaper than forging.
I had the bonded seal fail on my 14-bolt under my S10. I figured it was because I don't drive the truck often and the seal got dry spots. I had ARB's in my Super Duty for over 10 years and never had an issue with the unit, but my solenoids would clog/fail every few years.
Very nice!! Did you consider the OX locker?
I honestly forgot about them. I actually had an air-actuated OX in a Dana 44 I had East Coast Gear Supply build me years ago. It worked great, but I didn’t like the way the air line went in the cover. My experience with the cable actuator is limited and the ones I know with it, didn’t like it. I think they make a good product, I just don’t really see them on the trail much anymore.
I'm running ox lockers front and rear in my gladiator. Using the electric actuator up front and cable actuator in the rear. Have run the Rubicon and other local trails with 0 issues. Included diff covers are solid as well.
i have no clue regarding these kinds of things, but since seing the ox locker stiff via yt, i have wanted to tinker with the air locking products and see if diff fluid and a hydraulic lever could engage the diff in place of air + compressor. 🤪
TJM pro locker is also a very good option
Your front probably didn’t break because the weight mainly transfers to the rear. Particularly uphill.
Good video Ali. You couldn’t pay to run an ARB. Too many problems. I love the eaton’s in my UD60’s
You think smaller tires would make a difference? I have 35s on my Tacoma and was planning on an Eaton front locker whenever I got around to regearing. Pretty sure on the IFS it'd break a CV axle before the locker anyway.
I haven’t had a single issue out of my ELocker in the front axle. I’m not sure if it’s a factor of load or better quality internals. I think you might be OK. However, it is a gamble.
Any thoughts on an Eaton truTrac for an over landing full size pickup?
I work with a shop that installs those frequently in overland builds and they rarely have any issues with them. I’ve never owned a vehicle with one.
Truetracs are really great & very robust. Unit is entire hardened steel so very low chances of failure.
I exchanged emails with Dynatrac a few months ago and asked them what E- Locker I could get in a rear Elite ProRock HD 80 for a Jeep JT Gladiator. They told me the only option for an e-locker in that axle was the "Auburn Ected-Max E Locker".
I live in the Western Mountains of MT and in my experience ARB Airlocks are not very reliable when altitude and freezing temperatures 6 months out of the year need to be contended with. Something in the air system always seems to be down: compressor, seal, line cracked, solenoid.... Just my experience and I wish it wasn't the case. I'm not certain but I'm assuming it has something to do with the cold, salt on the roads and the large temperature swings that we get at altitude. Does anyone have any experience with Auburn Ected-Max E-lockers?
I researched them a little before deciding on the Eaton’s. If I remember correctly, they work as a limited slip, and lock up the clutch pack when engaged. I was a little worried about the clutch pack. I don’t know anyone who is running one. You might be able to get an OX locker, but I’m not sure if they offer that unit for the ProRock 80.
Genright uses auburns in their currie 70s…the military uses them if that tells you anything.
Stupid question... Just bought my first truck with a solid axle up front. 2019 F250. It comes with a factory electronic locker in the rear. Can I add an air front locker and will it behave the same as if I had a center locking diff when both are engaged?
Adding a selectable front locker, such as an air locker, will allow both tires upfront to spin at the same speed. So, if you have both lockers engaged, all four tires will turn at the same speed. Hopefully that’s what you were looking for.
@@DrivingLine Yes! Thank you, exactly what I was trying to figure out.
The OEM locker in my JK refused to unlock. Pulled it apart, cleaned and inspected everything, put it back together, and it worked perfectly again - until I went offroad and put some torque through it; it seized right up again. Took it to a reputable shop, who pulled it apart, cleaned and inspected everything, put it back together, and it worked perfectly again - until I went offroad and put some torque through it, and sure enough it seized up again. Then I took it to WFO Concepts, who made sure the housing was straight, cleaned and inspected everything. They found that the bevel on the ends of the aftermarket Revolution axle shafts was slightly longer than OEM shafts. After recontouring the bevel, they put it all back together and the locker worked flawlessly again. It's amazing how such a small difference in the combination of parts can lead to such frustrating troubleshooting. My JT with OEM everything has been 100% reliable so far with 37's. If I ever have axle problems, I dread the day I have to upgrade and go back to worrying about aftermarket parts compatibility and reliability. ARB makes the strongest diff locks, but I don't know ANYONE with ARBs who hasn't had problems with air leaks. I blew up the rear ARB in my Geo Tracker years ago, and after replacing all the busted parts it was still never the same.
Im getting my tacoma regeard so i might as well throw in a front locker. But im only doing 265/70R17’s so i dont think i ll have an issue with an eaton and those baby tires.
How do you have the switches set up? How I understand it, if you don’t provide these with the proper power in constant supply, you can run into magnet issues…just like you explain.
Hopefully you weren’t using the factory switch with the Eaton. If so, this could have been the issue.
I'm using the factory switches with an adapter from ZAutomotive. When the locker started to fail in Moab, I tested the voltage and it read 14 volts. I've had a few people bring this up. After testing the voltage and discussing the locker failure with those using the provided harness, I don't believe that this is the issue. Considering the front locker is wired the same way, it doesn't make sense that it would be a wiring issue. Like I said in the video, I've had two of these fail over two years time. If it was a wiring issue, it should have shown up more consistently.
@@DrivingLine I believe the reason why it has been brought up by several is that it is and has been an issue. In fact, I have spoken with Currie Enterprises at length about this when I bought my axles and they have done a fair amount of testing with the switch. This is why on their site that for their axles and lockers, it voids the warranty on either the Eaton or Auburn lockers if you use the factory Rubicon switch. Believe me, I'd love to use the factory switch! To my understanding, there is something with the factory switch that causes voltage dips as mentioned below. This allows it to partially disengage where even Currie on their extensive testing have seen several failures of ANY e-locker they've used. Wiring them to a control source that doesn't have these dips completely solves the problem in their testing. If installed properly, e-lockers can be very reliable and this is why the likes of Currie, Spicer, Fusion, and Dynatrac use them for their axles. If they were junk as the video makes it seem, I'm guessing these manufacturers with much more experience would not allow these as an option for their customers. Just my opinion.
I'm not trying to discredit anything the Currie's have found. They are the only manufacturer that I know of that has that disclaimer. After speaking at length with Dynatrac, along with many other reputable off-road shops, I've learned that my failure is not an isolated issue. I had almost one year of use between failures. So, that leads me to believe if it was a voltage issue, it would not have lasted so long. Again, my front locker has been perfect. I personally believe it's a combination of a weak magnet and poor material. I know of a few Gladiators and JL Wranglers running the same ZAutomotive harness adapter with zero issues. My goal wasn't to make the locker look like junk, but rather showcase my experience. Too many people hide these sort of issues or don't talk about them, which is a disservice to the off-road community. It would have been much cheaper/easier if I could have just purchased a new side gear set from Eaton. Instead, I'm over $2,000 in the hole from having to make the move to an ARB.
It's not hard at all. All you need to do is run a set of lead wires to the harness and put the voltage meter in the cab with you. You can engage the switch in the cab and see if the voltage changes. It's what I did initially when Dynatrac suggested it could be a voltage issue. I never saw a drop. It would have been great if that was the source of my issue. That's an easy fix. Unfortunately, I did not find that to be the case.
Thanks
I have the Eaton E locker in my 93 Toyota 4 Runner. I don't have it hooked up yet but still both tires spin in the dirt. I would assume it would be disengaged if the switch has never been wired up yet. I was wandering if this was normal?
I don’t know what gen ELocker that would be, but this style in the video defaults to an open diff when not engaged. If yours is engaged all of the time, it would act like a spool on road and you would chirp tires going around corners.
so strange, ive known more people have issues with air lockers. Ive had my e lockers since 2013 and they have never failed once and still wheel the rig hard.
I don’t know. It’s a strange one. I’ve never had an issue with the electric locker’s that come in the Rubicons. These Eatons don’t seem to like me though!
Perhaps it’s because air lockers are far more common than electric lockers , that i’ve seen lots more failures with ARB’s … one would think electric lockers would be substantially more reliable than air actuators & since several stock vehicles utilize electric lockers …
Two questions
1 with the ARB using a clutch does it lock up 100% or under a very heavy load will it slip? I think this could prevent things from breaking.
2 is there any way to lower the pressure to let it act like a limited slip?
The ARB (or at least this 60 series) doesn’t use a clutch in any conventional sense. When it gets enough air pressure, it simply ‘locks’ the spider gears together. There isn’t a clutch pack that would allow it to slip.
No clutch mate, purely a mechanical lock of the side gears. Once they are locked... they are locked.
Common mod here in Australia is swapping the standard pressure switch to a 120psi unit. Helps them a lot when it comes to wear on the locking mech faces. Higher pressure = faster engagement.
My stock front e locker on my 2013 jkur failed after 9 years. In Moab of course. 3 thousand kilometres from home. It became 2 wheel drive to get home.
That's always my biggest fear. Breaking something not easily fixable thousands of miles from home. Nine years of use is good though!
@@DrivingLine you will always find a way to get home.
That control switchology on the grab handle, is that a standard Jeep thing or is it aftermarket?
It’s aftermarket from a company called VoSwitch.
@@DrivingLine
Awesome, thanks 👌
Aussie here. Do TJM make Pro-Lockers to suit? Be worth a future look in for sure.. got to be 40% + stronger internals, far fewer places to leak. That said though, ARB and their air leaks keep me in a job ;)
I had to look up how the TJM air diff works. I have never seen one and don't know anyone that uses one here in the US. It does look like there is less chance of a leak with their design. It almost looks like you could have some sort of mechanical actuator if the air one fails. I will have to keep them in mind for the future. Thanks for the note.
Could be just weight of Gladiator and tire size. Smaller keeps may not see this type of failure.
It’s definitely possible. It’s a heavy Jeep.
Making me nervous for my e-locker 😬 Felt like I had seen far more trail failures on air lockers in videos and my installer wouldn’t even install any more air lockers, but I do understand many issues are from installation errors.
❤😢🎉😮🎉😢😂😂😂😂
Just from the sound it sounds cast. Both sides were 4130 or 4140 CM I can’t visualize that happening.
My truck, F-350 in the last few years I added OX lockers. I wont buy anything but OX LOCKERS. Simple push cable.
I had an OX in the back of one of my Jeeps years ago. Never had a problem with it. They actually offer cable, air, and electric actuation methods now. I honestly forgot about them when I decided to buy my ARB. However, I don’t think their cover will work with the ProRock XD60.
What About the new Eaton 4?
This is the newest four pinion Eaton that I keep breaking. Only the UD 60s gets the old style.
Sheesh, this locker topic is painful. Wish I could just retrofit factory lockers into my Sahara and be done with it. I don't trust arb or eaton at the moment.
Seems to me that if Eaton used more robust and deeper teeth, that may solve the problem...
Eaton's new lockers are terrible. Had one in my JL's hp d60. Same failure as in the video on the first trail I did.
I’d love to know what are the ‘new’ lockers compared to the old ones, when did this change etc. I have always planned Eaton E-lockers but this video isn’t encouraging.
@@peterj5751 It was when the redesigned them about 2 years ago. It was to make them engage faster. Theres about 70 little teeth that click together. One gets sheered off and the locker starts slipping. It snowballs from there. My advice is stay far away from Eaton.
@@jpk0612 that’s such a shame for a generally well reputed company. I will indeed stay away.
someone deleted my more detailed comment... There are 3 Eaton E-locker actuation types. The type discussed in this video appears to be an older revision.
The version you see here is the newest version. The one previous to this is the two pin design that’s still comes on with the UD60s. I’m only aware of two different Eaton electric locker types over the past 20 years.
The more of these videos I watch the more I’m convinced buying a rubicon is dumb unless all you’re doing is light off roading.
Buy a cheaper model and add in the better parts. Initial cost is lower and you’re not “throwing away” parts you paid for.
There’s definitely a good list of pros for going with a cheaper model out of the gate. In terms of the locker failure, the stock Rubicon lockers have always worked well for me. The Eaton unit that failed here is the only electric locker failure I’ve ever had.
Tructrac ftw.
OX locker is far superior to ARB and e-locker all mechanical cable operatored
They make a great locker, but you have to use their cover. I don’t believe they offer one for this style of ProRock XD60.
ARB is crap. Tired of fixing them!
Lincoln locker in the rear. Bomb proof !!
I'm hopeful it will be more trouble free than the Eaton. If all else fails, I'll put a Detroit Locker in. But, I would rather not have to go that route.