First time using aluminum on Shapeoko CNC
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2018
- This was a practice run using aluminum. I have a job that someone wants done using aluminum, and since I have never done anything with aluminum I figured it was a good time to try it out.
- Навчання та стиль
That came out pretty good for the first time using the bits. I've been researching CNC videos for years, and I have enjoy learning from you, keep up the good work.
Nice.... you are Really making me want to buy one of these more every time I see your videos.... you make it look so easy even though you probably been doing it for a while.... thank you for the videos.... it really is helping me learn even before I get the machine...
You've given me hope! Love this man...thanks for sharing!
Nice Job! I have tried aluminum on my CNC and my first attempt certainly did not turn out as nice as yours! Great tip on the diamond drag engraving - thank you!
Wow! That came out pretty nice! I have never seen a drag bit- definitely want one now!
In the machine shop I worked we used kerosene when cutting aluminum. But looked great loved it
Great and usefull video’s! Thanks for the Work.
NICE!!! You have answered a long sought question. Thanks
Nice sign! I have been watching CNC videos for a while now as I want to get a CNC that is capable of cutting guitar bodies and necks but also capable of the odd bit of making some metal chips.
I enjoyed this video +1 SUBS
I love what you’re doing. I just jumped and bought a Millright CNC and can’t wait to get started on some things. Would love to get a 5’x10’ CNC but I’ll start off with a 24”x24” first. Good work mister!!
How's your CNC journey a year in? I'm in the same boat, want to jump straight to a 4'x4' machine but it's out of budget. About to buy aShapeoko and learn, maybe sell some stuff to pay for a big boy machine later
Great video. Many thanks for sharing!
Trial and error is a good way to see what works and what doesn't. Hey, it worked for WD40. This one looks like a success. Good job Bud
I use mineral spirits for a lubricant on brass and aluminum, it helps a lot and wouldn't dry up fast.
Also if the cut is deep don't use a single pass.
Super cool stuff, I really want to get a shapeoko myself.
Don't do it, they're junk. I had one before my CNC Shark HD4. the Shapeoko looks cool but they really are junk for what you pay for.
Great video! Would like to know if it would cut aluminum that deep. I’ll check your other videos to see if you cover that.
i find that on my smaller machine ( more prone to vibrations and stuff ) , it needs to take less on the passes, this will usually suit most machines, if your not sure about spindle rpm, do a test strip with different rpm and see what works best and at what feed and depth of cut. aside from that your aluminum turned out great,
Thanks for this. Wish I would have seen this before I did my vids. Live and slow speeds are the key. I’ve gotten away with WD40.
Is there enough fine control to engrave say 1/8 tall lettering? How fine of detail can you get?
Nice. I have a homebuilt CNC using a Bosch Colt router. I have tried a few aluminum pieces and not much success. I do have a couple of diamond drag bits I have used on Lexan. May try it on aluminum next
Would you share a video on how you set up the files in carbide create.
I know nothing about drag knives AND WANT TO EXPAnd what I do
Jeff
The results of the first operation looked like the opposite of the CAD image you showed. Is that possible? Looking at specific parts of a UA-cam vid is a pain on this iPad, so I haven't gone back to look a second time, but that's what hit me, immediately.
I would say the wavy pattern is possibly a combination of three things. That can be remedied with tool path correction. Which I've only seen people do successfully in fusion 360. 1 is possibly super fine tuning of your steps per mm or inch. And mostly tool deflection. You may try creating a clean up code to make a final pass just around the play button. Which could result in messing up the whole thing. Personally I would leave well enough alone. But take steps to try and correct it on future pieces. This is why i want to learn fusion 360. Problem with my machine is it only seems to run with universal g code sender. Which could possibly still run g code from fusion but is a few more steps in the process. Any way I like your videos they are helping me learn this new profession/hobby. So i can get out of trucking and start follow my dreams. Ps. Take it easy on the oil haulers. Not sure what part of west texas your from but I run in that area about 800 miles from my home in the pecos orla and east north east area.
Great video and I would say it came out pretty nice! What model Shapeoko is that?
It seemed you used oil with the drag but, do you feel that helped/hurt? Is that bit still holding up?
great video
This channel is so cool
the wavy pattern on the V-cut looks like deflection. your first pass has straight lines due to the constant pressure of the bit going through material and it is unnoticeable because of constant load. when the cross-hatch pass starts, the bit tries to walk when it hits the peaks of the first pass. the belts and gantry are flexing under the torque of the bit. run the code on softer material and compare the pattern.
So if that's the case how do you keep the deflection from happening? smaller bites, and slower feed rates maybe?
slower feed rates, higher RPMS or multiple passes.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 Joe is correct on this, its the nature of using a CNC machine designed for soft materials (Wood/Plastic) on a hard material such as brass/aluminum.
Nice work what CAD are you using cheers from OZ.
Nice first try! I use WD40 for lube and I would do the engraving of the play button in 2 passes, 0.006" each pass
@@frankswoboda1250 You may be right but thousands of hobby machinists use it successfully as well as many bridgeport operators milling aluminum. There's a huge difference in milling aluminum and running an engine on the stuff.
what kinda tool are you using?? is it a kinda of a diamond drag bit??
3:59 , I would bet the direction of travel and rotation of the bit cause a slight shift.
What cut depth and speeds did you run the drag bit at? Turned out great
Just got a XXL shapeoko and in process of building it now.
I have an x-carve and use compressed air to clear the chips in aluminum cutting. I cut fast ipm but low doc and it works pretty good. That looks great, I just subbed your channel. I don't make videos but hey ya never know. Thumbs up
Thanks for the info and the sub. I'm going to be attempting some more aluminum stuff in the near future. I want to make my own small brand for branding the stuff I make. I'll keep the info in mind.
nice job!!
if you were to guess, how long would that take to cut from start to finish? specifically cutting time!
What machine is this? That's a Shapeoko? I might have to get one of these. I doing research on what machine I wanna purchase and start off with. I want quality.
Loved your shirt
the nut for the dewalt is it ER16M and thank you for the video
Great shirt!
did you make those clamps? if so do you have the GCode?
Good info, thanks for sharing. What degree Drag but were you using? Where in Texas are you located? One Texan to another.
Is that machine support delcam powermill and artcam
did you test that pattern in wood to see if it would end up the same? if it does , it's a program error..
Try using Kool Mist water based lubricant
Avail MSC. Just rinse with water and it's completely clean.
Where did you get the diamond drag bit? I enjoy your videos and you have inspired me to get back to working with my Shapeoko.
I got it directly from widgetworks. They are a little pricier than others but the tool is quality made.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 I came across your video and I'm in need of some engraving on a Aluminium plate,do you do this for a living?email me at jynx4eva@gmail.com
Nice work. Thanks for sharing. And i hope you get ur youtube plate soon. I just subscribed to help a little bit.
To help eliminate burrs take finish passes at final depth twice. Use WD-40 and try a 60 degree engraving bit that is single cutting edge.
Still looks great for a hobby machine.
Very nice
A9 cutting oil for aluminum is the best. Try it once and you will never go back. Also you should stick to one or two flutes for your cutter. Cheers!
I don’t claim to be an expert. But I would say it might have to be the tuning on the stepper motors and belt. One of you axis is moving shorter in relation to the the opposite axis. Just and educated guess. Good luck
It looks like head deflection since it didn't effect the drag etching, so its unlikely to be belt slippage or misalignment.
When using a CNC router that is mainly designed soft materials it often lacks the spindle (Z axis) rigidity to cut things like brass/aluminum quickly. Your only option would be to lower your feeds to put more work on the cutter, this would result is a lower lifespan for the cutter. However it should limit your deflection and/or gantry binding if any. Lubricants help keep the bit cool and extent the lifespan of the bit and can help with the finish of the cut.
WD 40 works really well when cutting aluminum. Keeps the aluminum from welding itself onto the tip of the cutter.
Que maquina es y cuanto cuesta si ay en México
Great video can you do a video on those clamps you have in the video please
Ajay Assani check out my other videos it's in there.
hi nice video , what adaptor use to plug 1 mm bit ?
I don't use adapters. I use an actual collet and nut. The ones I use are from precisebits.com They are made by a company called think and tinker.
Thanks sorry I did not see the videos.
Just research your material and send it in tolerance to the cutter adjust programing as need be. Would have liked to see forced air on the work to cool and clear rather than still cutting fluid that just reams chips back into the aluminum though. might have helped the right hand corner of the button out :)
is bit not getting to hot v-bit
Where did you get that table?! That’s really sweet
What table are you referring to? The router table? If so I bought it from Home Depot. It's a Bosch table.
how long was total run time for that roughly? all said and done for the whole plate. and is this something you can walk away from after starting or should i monitor the whole time?
I never really leave my machine when its running. I prefer not to. The run time all together was probably a little under an hour. This was a pretty simple thing. The diamond drag bit might be kn to walk away from, but I just like to play it safe. These things can develop a mind of their own sometimes.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 thanks for the insight. i run a small construction labor company and almost every plant i step foot into is in need of signs and labels that i could create with one of these machines. so just starting to look into this option for expanding my business. Thanks!
So even with the belt it’s able to do aluminum nice
Hi are you using vectric?
I must say, you guys in Texas really know how to blow it off. Proof positive that Texas is full of more than just steers. Seriously though, kudos!
Coool!
Is it possible to redo the part that didn't get the oil?
In theory if I re-did it the bit would never touch the metal since it has already cut it. I think you would end up making it worse if you tried to go back over it.
My shapeoko XXL comes in today.
What software are you using to design???
VCarve Pro
Nice video buddy.
Can you next time make video where you use diamond drag bit on copper???
Thank you in advance
If I can find a sheet of copper handy I'll definitely do that.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 can you tell me how long it takes to engrave that with diamond drag bit???
this looks like it's a problem on the rigidity of the whole gantry, it can't hold it steady. may want to reduce feed rate or depth of cut.
Engraving is one thing, milling mechanical parts is another. I think aluminum is to a Shapeoko what steel is to a Sherline.
Maybe you could edit the noise to lower vol level
great play button! I want to see what the rest of that tee shirt said?
I'm a second hand vegetarian. Cows eat the grass, and I eat the cows. LOL. Thanks.
lol
where can I get that t-shirt?
www.amazon.com/Second-Vegetarian-Novelty-Sarcastic-T-Shirt/dp/B01FY6G1NY
Use WD-40 when cutting Aluminum - thanks for your informative videos.
Vegetarian :) cool
I think your clamps are upside down 🤷🏻♂️
plumberman19 they had to be. The rabbet kept them from touching the metal the other way around.
your Z was not perpendicular to the surface of the aluminum, thats why one side is sharp, and one side of the path was dull.
Its probably not your Z, its the surface of the material. If you surface the material first, then cut this, it should be even.
surprisingly good for a shapeoko. they look like a toy compared to my cnc with 20mm rails and ballscrews. Mine is over built and this one is under built but it is passable for most people and most parts/projects.
Wudent too bad.....
The Shapeoko CNC is not made for aluminium. Im looking into creating some machines myself that are able to mill both aluminium and steel.
Contact me of you are interested in the project and pricing and so on.
way better resuts not using junk shapeoko lol
You spelt it as you pronounced it.
It is Aluminium.
Gosh Americans!