A list of each product in order would be helpful :) I also noticed you are applying them differently. With each product, the best way to apply it would also be great. Awesome tutorial!
Regarding the gesso, where I've mainly seen that used is for covering the gritty texture on worbla. Kamui Cosplay (a worbla goddess!) recommends it for that. But then, worbla also doesn't have the flex issue nearly as much as the foam.
Thank you so much for doing this video! It is much appreciated. You're really helping others out there. I found this video after I finished my first costume unfortunately but I was working with worbla anyway and I'm glad I went the route I went because I learned a little bit from it and I figured I'd share it here for anyone else who was wondering. As you say, sometimes you need it to be flexible and sometimes you need it to be stiff. That Flex n Fill spackling paste is what I used to smooth the surface of my worbla armor. On the pieces I needed to bend a bit, instead of the sandwich method I had just one layer of worbla on top of (wrapped around) a layer of craft foam for more flexibility plus less waste of worbla. I primed the pieces with spray filler first, and then just a few coats of the flex n fill were used to smooth the surface after a lot of sanding. It actually sands pretty easily on worbla, since it's rough, I guess. It is pretty flexible and didn't crack at all. I made wrist cuffs that wrap all the way around (no need for a fastener) and they were sturdy/stiff enough to stay in place but still flexible enough to get my hand through. I didn't have to use gesso at all and this spackling paste dries so much faster. You only have to wait 15 minutes for the stuff to dry and be sandable (depending on how much you put on in a coat). Don't know how it'd fair on foam but it works well enough for worbla! Hope this helps someone out there. Again, thanks for your videos!
Thanks for taking the time to test these. I'd imagine there would be some that would perform much better with adhesion promoter/primer of some sort. I guess as long as it stick, it fills, it's flexible and sandable it's fine, but some might be better and potentially cheaper if primed (not sure what the best would be).
Yeah there are so many other types out there. These are mostly what I had on hand. There are even some specialty ones people have recommended, but I didn't want to spend that much money.
Wow, thank you for this amazingly comprehensive and helpful video! I just used DAP Alex, and I noticed it could be pulled apart quiet easily. I guess its off to get some kwik!!
What would be the best to sealer around the edges of two foam pieces glued together so you cant see the seams from the sides? So it all looks smooth and flawless around the edges… thanks for your video!!
Really useful because i knew about mud pudge but i wanted to make sûre that it could have something better ( don't know if i made mistakes because i´m french)
Was the foam sealed before you started these? Might be why some didn't stick as well. And Mod Podge comes in many different types including ones for fabric (more flex) and an outdoor one that is water resistant. I would have liked it if the foam pieces were glued together so you could see more of the actual filling properties instead of the gluing/sticking, but it was a good tutorial over all.
Thanks. The idea here was to just do it without sealing. I want to do sealing in another video and maybe even a gluing one. I wanted to see 3 things doing this. How well does it stick to the foam itself, fills the small gap and how well does it sand. I'm sure there are tons of other products you can try too, but I just used what I had on hand.
can you post a link to the ceramic tile caulk? It was the best one by far to fill in seams (I'm sandwiching/layering 6 EVA mats). Open for advice if there is something that works better (durability wise).
Personally, when applying stuff that doesn't self-level well (or at all), I like to use a scrap piece of foam to apply it, usually. Preferably a scrap of 1/8" craft foam. I find that it goes on nicer than a rigid applicator, and if you're using caulking... Well, any leftover not cleaned off will fuse to a silicone applicator.
I'm an amateur so I get alot of gaps and uneven parts. Im thinking about getting either bondo or mod podge. On amazon bondo is the cheapest and alot of prop makers use it.
don't use Bondo! it will iether eat at the foam due to the chemical reaction to harden, Bondo hardens only when the hardener is applied which causes heat. Plus its pretty bridal if it comes to a bendable surface so foam would not work well with Bondo.
So uh, can you actually use Mod Podge as a glue? I'm making a "foam sandwich" (foam, core, foam) blade and I used butapren glue to stick the pieces together. It keeps them together very well, the problem is when I sanded the edges to make it look actually sharp, the glue got left sticking out from between the pieces. When I tried to cut it, it peeled off from between the pieces, leaving an ugly hole. So I thought about using something else next time. Is Mod Podge good as a glue? Or is there a better alternative?
mod podge is best use on paper (there are different types of mod podge, see which one suits best for your project).. mod podge as a glue doesnt work to bond 2 foams together.. it is used for making gloss or matt finishes on your foam when dried..
Still new to working with this stuff and I need something clarified. If I am putting mats together into one piece, do I glue and seal them, then use a heat gun to shape the completed piece or do I need to shape them individually and then glue and seal? Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.
moyeongsu depends on your piece. More rounded pieces I like to heat bend first then do kind of a "dry fit" see how they go together. Then glue and fill.
I'm making pink insulation foam brick walls. There are score marks in the foam. What would be best to use if I'm just need to fill it, flatten, and paint over with latex paint?
Hey Ronan, I am looking for someone to help me build some costumes and it looks like you are very good at it! How much would you charge for shoulder pads, chest armor, arm armor, and leg armor? Please let me know if you are interested in helping my brothers and I with an upcoming project! Thanks. :D
Nice Video! Can you mybe paraphrase what this kwik seal stuff is or is there a general term for products like this? Im living in Germany and we dont have that over here but maybe i can find an equivalent.
don't understand using a brush for applying caulk edit: biggest fallacy is doing your testing on joints that are not glued. don't see ever having need to fill gaps for seams/gaps that haven't been glued together first.
I'm currently working on my own Warhammer space marine armor but the foam pieces keep coming apart at the seams. I used hot glue to glue them together but did not make diagonal cuts at angled parts... does it make that much of a difference if I didn't?
the purpose of elmers wood glue is not for covering gaps!! it is supposed to be used as a bond between 2 foams!! the correct usage of wood glue is to apply 2 sides and then clamp it to let it bond it for at least 1 day~~!!! if u just apply it to cover the gaps, it will definitely 100000000% will not work at all~~ to think u are using it as a fill gap test.. oh god~~ *facekeyboard*
This is the most informative video on this topic I've watched.
A list of each product in order would be helpful :) I also noticed you are applying them differently. With each product, the best way to apply it would also be great.
Awesome tutorial!
Finally. Yes. This is the best way to figure out what are the best for both flexible and stiff props.
Regarding the gesso, where I've mainly seen that used is for covering the gritty texture on worbla. Kamui Cosplay (a worbla goddess!) recommends it for that. But then, worbla also doesn't have the flex issue nearly as much as the foam.
Thank you so much for doing this video! It is much appreciated. You're really helping others out there.
I found this video after I finished my first costume unfortunately but I was working with worbla anyway and I'm glad I went the route I went because I learned a little bit from it and I figured I'd share it here for anyone else who was wondering. As you say, sometimes you need it to be flexible and sometimes you need it to be stiff.
That Flex n Fill spackling paste is what I used to smooth the surface of my worbla armor. On the pieces I needed to bend a bit, instead of the sandwich method I had just one layer of worbla on top of (wrapped around) a layer of craft foam for more flexibility plus less waste of worbla. I primed the pieces with spray filler first, and then just a few coats of the flex n fill were used to smooth the surface after a lot of sanding. It actually sands pretty easily on worbla, since it's rough, I guess.
It is pretty flexible and didn't crack at all. I made wrist cuffs that wrap all the way around (no need for a fastener) and they were sturdy/stiff enough to stay in place but still flexible enough to get my hand through. I didn't have to use gesso at all and this spackling paste dries so much faster. You only have to wait 15 minutes for the stuff to dry and be sandable (depending on how much you put on in a coat).
Don't know how it'd fair on foam but it works well enough for worbla! Hope this helps someone out there. Again, thanks for your videos!
Thanks for taking the time to test these. I'd imagine there would be some that would perform much better with adhesion promoter/primer of some sort. I guess as long as it stick, it fills, it's flexible and sandable it's fine, but some might be better and potentially cheaper if primed (not sure what the best would be).
Yeah there are so many other types out there. These are mostly what I had on hand. There are even some specialty ones people have recommended, but I didn't want to spend that much money.
Wow, thank you for this amazingly comprehensive and helpful video! I just used DAP Alex, and I noticed it could be pulled apart quiet easily. I guess its off to get some kwik!!
Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪. Thank you for your awesome video 👍
Nice well rounded tutorial
What would be the best to sealer around the edges of two foam pieces glued together so you cant see the seams from the sides? So it all looks smooth and flawless around the edges… thanks for your video!!
This was very helpful. Thank you for making this video.
Hello, what are other alternatives for Kwik Seal? Any silicone sealant?
Really useful because i knew about mud pudge but i wanted to make sûre that it could have something better ( don't know if i made mistakes because i´m french)
Thank you so much brother 🙏
Was the foam sealed before you started these? Might be why some didn't stick as well. And Mod Podge comes in many different types including ones for fabric (more flex) and an outdoor one that is water resistant. I would have liked it if the foam pieces were glued together so you could see more of the actual filling properties instead of the gluing/sticking, but it was a good tutorial over all.
Thanks. The idea here was to just do it without sealing. I want to do sealing in another video and maybe even a gluing one. I wanted to see 3 things doing this. How well does it stick to the foam itself, fills the small gap and how well does it sand. I'm sure there are tons of other products you can try too, but I just used what I had on hand.
well guess i will be picking up some of that dap quick seal
This was very helpful thank you!
can you post a link to the ceramic tile caulk?
It was the best one by far to fill in seams (I'm sandwiching/layering 6 EVA mats).
Open for advice if there is something that works better (durability wise).
You applied caulking and sealers with a paint brush? You apply it to the edges force it in the joints and smooth it with a putty knife.
Personally, when applying stuff that doesn't self-level well (or at all), I like to use a scrap piece of foam to apply it, usually. Preferably a scrap of 1/8" craft foam. I find that it goes on nicer than a rigid applicator, and if you're using caulking... Well, any leftover not cleaned off will fuse to a silicone applicator.
I'm an amateur so I get alot of gaps and uneven parts. Im thinking about getting either bondo or mod podge. On amazon bondo is the cheapest and alot of prop makers use it.
don't use Bondo! it will iether eat at the foam due to the chemical reaction to harden, Bondo hardens only when the hardener is applied which causes heat. Plus its pretty bridal if it comes to a bendable surface so foam would not work well with Bondo.
Great video
So uh, can you actually use Mod Podge as a glue? I'm making a "foam sandwich" (foam, core, foam) blade and I used butapren glue to stick the pieces together. It keeps them together very well, the problem is when I sanded the edges to make it look actually sharp, the glue got left sticking out from between the pieces. When I tried to cut it, it peeled off from between the pieces, leaving an ugly hole.
So I thought about using something else next time. Is Mod Podge good as a glue? Or is there a better alternative?
+PsiQss I wouldn't. I think the best way to glue EVA foam is by using contact cement.
Hmm, isn't butapren a type of contact cement? (Sorry for a newb-ish question >.
+PsiQss not sure to be honest. I use a brand called Barge. Works awesome.
+Ronan's Cosplay Page
Does it sand well? I'll check it out when I have a chance. Thanks alot :)
mod podge is best use on paper (there are different types of mod podge, see which one suits best for your project)..
mod podge as a glue doesnt work to bond 2 foams together.. it is used for making gloss or matt finishes on your foam when dried..
If we are using pepakura, we need large fillers to make it smooth surface. What do you suggest for that purpose? Thanks
Do the sealants tested on the opposite side of where you duct taped the pieces together have a better shot of holding up?
Still new to working with this stuff and I need something clarified. If I am putting mats together into one piece, do I glue and seal them, then use a heat gun to shape the completed piece or do I need to shape them individually and then glue and seal? Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.
moyeongsu depends on your piece. More rounded pieces I like to heat bend first then do kind of a "dry fit" see how they go together. Then glue and fill.
I'm making pink insulation foam brick walls. There are score marks in the foam. What would be best to use if I'm just need to fill it, flatten, and paint over with latex paint?
Pretty much any paintable calk would work for that. Just smooth it out as you apply it.
Can you paint over the kwik seal? Also, what do you mean by wet brush?
Hey Ronan, I am looking for someone to help me build some costumes and it looks like you are very good at it! How much would you charge for shoulder pads, chest armor, arm armor, and leg armor? Please let me know if you are interested in helping my brothers and I with an upcoming project! Thanks. :D
Sorry, I don't do commissions. Too much headache and not enough time. I'm sure if you head over to therpf.com. You can find someone there.
Nice Video! Can you mybe paraphrase what this kwik seal stuff is or is there a general term for products like this? Im living in Germany and we dont have that over here but maybe i can find an equivalent.
Samsa000 Its a brand of calking. The stuff you put around bathtubs to seal them.
Thank you for the quick answer :) Just one quick follow up question. The rubber like one (e.g. silicone) or is it more solid?
Samsa000 Its the soft one, but not Silicone. Look for Latex or Paintable. You can't paint silicone.
Alright thank you!
Did you find something like this in Germany? Because i live there too and search for a nice thing
don't understand using a brush for applying caulk
edit: biggest fallacy is doing your testing on joints that are not glued. don't see ever having need to fill gaps for seams/gaps that haven't been glued together first.
Amazing video!
Is the dap qwik seal non toxic to touch?
Dragon Sage TV Not at all. I would not recommend eating it though. ;)
Ronan's Cosplay Page
Sweeeet!
Totally going to get to fill in the gaps for the armor im working on. :) TY
I'm currently working on my own Warhammer space marine armor but the foam pieces keep coming apart at the seams. I used hot glue to glue them together but did not make diagonal cuts at angled parts... does it make that much of a difference if I didn't?
e6000 or contact cement may do better for you if you're using floor mats.
+William Bostedt (Red Jack Fabrications)
Yep, I have learned that Hot Glue doesn't do well after awhile. Try Contact Cement as mentioned.
Try Barge.
What do you mean by a wet foam brush? Why?
Use those black foam brushes. If you get them wet, you can smooth the calking before it dries. That way there is less to sand.
the purpose of elmers wood glue is not for covering gaps!! it is supposed to be used as a bond between 2 foams!!
the correct usage of wood glue is to apply 2 sides and then clamp it to let it bond it for at least 1 day~~!!!
if u just apply it to cover the gaps, it will definitely 100000000% will not work at all~~
to think u are using it as a fill gap test.. oh god~~ *facekeyboard*
Did you see how old this video is? At the time no one else had done a test and others were using all sorts of stuff. So that's why i did the test.
I guesso it’s pronounced jesso.
lol yeah, ive found that out since i made this