My first winding sticks were a 1m aluminium straight edge, cut in half.😁 Someone else must've liked them, as they went missing (I know who you are...). Need to make some more but will use wood this time.
First time I heard torrefied wood. Did a quick search and learned they are used in guitars. Kiln dried wood is probably the closest I can get for the project.
You can find torrified wood but you have to look for it at specialty wood stores. Its difficult but nit impossible to find, thats why on this video I discussed building with easyily avaliable wood
hey so I've got quite some experience with lower quality table saws now, all 230V, one phase machines maxing out at 2,4KW of power. The ''problem'' I have with these machines, is that the saw will stop as soon as there is too much force on the blade, which in my opinion, makes lower powered table saws a whole lot safer, because ''real'' kickback doesn't easily occur, and when it does, it can not really fling something at you with a whole lot of energy, usually small pieces, otherwise the saw blade will simply stop. So the question I got is, is the riving knife really that useful in this scenario on these caliber saws? because if the wood would release stress behind the blade and squeeze it (what the riving knife is supposed to counter). The saw would just simply stop spinning. It's not even close to having enough power to fling a whole piece of wood at me at all. Reason I ask is because the capacity is quite low, it can't go up and down a whole lot and I gotta make some 45 degree cuts. So I wanna take that riving knife of, and put in a blade with a larger diameter (which at the lowest setting would probably be above the table about 3cm).
Hi Rob, i guess this is going against the grain but is there anything to be said to have a set of aluminium or steel winding or straight sticks? I can already guess the answer. Great video
Well I was actually thinking about these day before last. That's creepy Mr. Rob😅 thank you it was also your class that hinted me towards the intelligence ( your credit not mine) to get some
Check out plate 14 in Roubo's "L'art du menuisier" The way they work totally simplifies flattening, especially if you are working with a board that has cup AND twist (wind). You can focus on one task at a time.
Learn how to use winding sticks here: ua-cam.com/video/g60GrUufgWM/v-deo.html
Good design and explanation. Great demonstration.
I never heard of winding sticks, so I found a video explaining them. This seems like a better solution than using my eye.
Easy to make, easy to use. At least you make it look that way.🙂🙂
Hi Rob, I made some based on your design a couple of years ago . . . I used white dyed resin for the corners though 😉
Very nice Rob
I bought mine from you, Rob - and they are magnificent. I depend on them all the time.
Good to hear John, even better to hear from you! Hopefully all is well!
My first winding sticks were a 1m aluminium straight edge, cut in half.😁
Someone else must've liked them, as they went missing (I know who you are...).
Need to make some more but will use wood this time.
Wood just looks and feels so much better
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Absolutely.
The pair I made as replacements are recycled mahogany.
First time I heard torrefied wood. Did a quick search and learned they are used in guitars. Kiln dried wood is probably the closest I can get for the project.
You can find torrified wood but you have to look for it at specialty wood stores. Its difficult but nit impossible to find, thats why on this video I discussed building with easyily avaliable wood
Thanks
Watching Rob scoot all of the tools and jigs around the bench makes me feel not so bad about my “hoarding” habit of stuff when working a project.
Good stuff Rob. Hope you're feeling better. You definitely sound better.
hey so I've got quite some experience with lower quality table saws now, all 230V, one phase machines maxing out at 2,4KW of power.
The ''problem'' I have with these machines, is that the saw will stop as soon as there is too much force on the blade, which in my opinion, makes lower powered table saws a whole lot safer, because ''real'' kickback doesn't easily occur, and when it does, it can not really fling something at you with a whole lot of energy, usually small pieces, otherwise the saw blade will simply stop.
So the question I got is, is the riving knife really that useful in this scenario on these caliber saws? because if the wood would release stress behind the blade and squeeze it (what the riving knife is supposed to counter). The saw would just simply stop spinning. It's not even close to having enough power to fling a whole piece of wood at me at all.
Reason I ask is because the capacity is quite low, it can't go up and down a whole lot and I gotta make some 45 degree cuts. So I wanna take that riving knife of, and put in a blade with a larger diameter (which at the lowest setting would probably be above the table about 3cm).
Hi Rob, i guess this is going against the grain but is there anything to be said to have a set of aluminium or steel winding or straight sticks?
I can already guess the answer.
Great video
Mine were just that - an aluminium straight edge, cut in half.
Checked out to be within 0.004".
Well I was actually thinking about these day before last. That's creepy Mr. Rob😅 thank you it was also your class that hinted me towards the intelligence ( your credit not mine) to get some
Nice shop decoration. However, all you need is flat workbench surface to use it as a surface plate.
That seems much easier to acquire…
How then do you measure the wind in your bench top?
With two windings sticks :) Actually, two builders levels.
Don't feel like I've seen ya in a week of Wednesdays. Dang UA-cam
Thanks for sharing. May the algorithm be kind to you.
And with you
Torrefied winding sticks, now there's an outstanding idea!!!
My homemade winding sticks are very effective. These are much nicer though.
Check out plate 14 in Roubo's "L'art du menuisier"
The way they work totally simplifies flattening, especially if you are working with a board that has cup AND twist (wind). You can focus on one task at a time.
Would have been simpler to cut that bevel last and not first. Inlay the corners, then trim the bevel, and you have yourself quick and flush work.
Why not use MDF and seal it. Just sayin'