Thank you very much for this video, after years of not being able to figure out the little hand plainer of my dad's, thanks to your video I now know that I don't have a blade🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ I thought another part of it was the blade this whole time I feel pretty dumbo but that's alright, thank you again😅🙏🙏
Found an old hand plane from my granddad in my parent's garage, then stumbled upon this channel. Got a new blade in it, and thanks to these videos learned how to sharpen it. I see why woodworkers are so passionate about their craft lol, it's a lot of fun!
I have a couple of Stanley planes from the 1940s (?) that belonged to my father. Due to surface rust, etc., I'm doing a full restoration on them. I've watched a few of your videos, and they are fantastic. Fortunately, I've got various sharpening stones for knives, chisels, etc. - water, diamond, and one natural Japanese stone. There's nothing better or more important to have sharp edges. From kitchen to chisels to drill bits. There are myriad methods for getting a good edge, and each tool has its own subtle differences. It takes patience and practice to get good at it. All that said, my favorite part of watching your videos (besides that excellent info and teaching style, of course) is the 'hockey tape' wrap you have on some of your hand tools :) I've been doing the same since my days playing ice hockey as a yute, on all manner of handles. I can't begin to count the number of non-hockey players to whom I've taught that wrap. Second to a sharp edge is being able to get a good purchase on a handle. Thanks for posting these.
One of the great things about Mr. Cosman; although he sells tools and equipment, he is CONSTANTLY giving away valuable training and teachings for free. Thanks Rob, for all that you do!
Thank you for everything Rob. I've learned SO much from watching you and putting your techniques into practical use. It has changed my life from being at my lowest point due to an ugly divorce leaving me alone with 5 children, to having a level head and something to look forward to after bed time. Your teaching may have ultimately saved my life. Thank you again from the bottom of my heart and God bless you and yours.
I’m so happy to see you are demonstrating with a Stanley tool, making this educational content relevant to all viewers, even though I’m sure you own plenty more expensive planes. Happy new year.
Great video Rob, as always very informative. I bought a used plane ebay and evidently the guy I got it from stuck an old (almost worn out) blade in it that had the wrong angle on it. I spent hours trying to figure out what went wrong. So I came to your video and checked everything your suggested with no luck. I finally got a working plane and checked the angle and low and behold it was way off. Now using your instructions and the right angle on the blade it works like a charm. Thanks!
I wax from heel to toe,thereby not cutting wax over the blade.Prosperous 2024 Rob,to you and yours and your magnificent team.Love from Sunny South Africa
Thanks for this video and many of your other ones, Rob. If I ever come up to Canada, you're going to be one of the first addresses for me! Woodworking does something special for me and you pass along your love for woodworking, not just your knowledge and experience. I think that's rare. Thank you!
Rob, I have taken 3 of your workshops, and still learn so much from you! I really love it when I take out one of my handplanes, and know what to do if it is not working quite right! I may have to get one of those measuring devices for the blade!
Thank you! I'm a beginner struggling with my hand planes. I bought them used and am considering the purchase of new ones, but I'll try all of these tips first.
Rob - Great video - How did you getsuch a great fininsh on the Stanley No you were using ? .. As I would like to refurbish my no 5 1/2 to a simular finish .... Best wishes for 2024....
I fuckin love this guy! Experience seeps from every fiber of his being and every fiber of wood grain! 👍👍I thought that board was gonna be gone by the end of the video! 😂He planed it the whole time.
Rob, this is a great video and just about explains everything! One thing I believe is missing is "sharpening the blade past 45 degree", which I believe happens to people when they hand sharpen and progressively increase the angle. If this happens, the plane won't cut anymore.
I've been digging these tips out of robs movies for a while and they've made all the difference in my plane success. I would like to add that a solid hold on the material is really important. If it's not held solidly and immobilized that will cause issues. Seems obvious I know but I'm just passing it along.
40 years ago I wound up with my Grandfather’s #5 Jack plane I threw a piece of wood in the vise put the plane to it and it stopped dead ! I said to myself “this thing is stupid” lol and kept using my power tools. Then I stumbled on to Rob’s UA-cam channel and it changed the game. Unfortunately I lost that hand plane in a house fire in 2009 but if I still had it it would be taking .001 shavings. Thanks Rob !
Super good info I'm saving to get a 51/2 due to your Recommendation I'm definitely a beginner with hand tools I'm bound to make every mistake you mentioned haha
Well done, this man knows planes. I have learned so much watching your videos. 👍🏻🇨🇦 By the way did you make that Canadian flag behind you. I been looking for measurements to make the leaf, care to share.
Hi Rob, I don't think you mentioned my problem... I used David Charlesworth's method for prepping the chip breaker because there was always a gap between where it engages with the blade iron. I've used a business card up the top near the screw so it will force the gap to close and it works but id rather just have a chip breaker that doesn't have a gap. Is there a way to fix it or should I just buy a new one? I have a Clifton 5 1/2 Jack.
I appreciate the video. I do have a question for you. I have a couple newer Stanley planes. A low angle plane and an 8 inch or so plane. I can put a shaving edge on the blades, and I have followed the steps you have shown in the video. I still have a few problems. First neither of the planes will hold depth. Between the backlash in the depths screw, and I assume the looseness of the frog threads I find myself endless lowering the blade every few passes. I have never been able to pull a shaving as feathery as you (though I know in part, it can only be done with flatter boards). And without fail I have various levels of tearout. I know planning as such : -> \ With the grain rising to the blade rather than away from it can cause this, but even if I plane in the opposite orientation it leaves these tiny little pock marks on the surface. I realize I spent some 20 dollars on these and I'm going to get what I pay for, but is there any hope to repair or strengthen them?
I bought a replacement iron and chip breaker for my Stanley. They did not fit The hardness of both was well above Rockwell 60. I used the iron with a Stanley chip breaker and the chip breaker sharpened as a low angle plane iron. So mixing up the two is not as daft as it sounds. They both worked fine with keen edges!
I'm familiar with the adjusting knob being a circular brass knob. yours looks like a 'pin wheel' . Is that after market or is Stanley making them that way. Seems like a better way to adjust on the fly.
"If that doesn't work....buy a belt sander". 🤣🤣🤣 I've followed all your advice regarding planes & sharpening & now have a 4½, two 5½s & a 7 (All 50+ year old Stanley Bailey's) which perform fantastically - unimaginably better than they used to.
well thanks for hanging in there. As I said being able to assess the problem yourself is the skill level you need in order to master the plane. Great job
Another issue can be the fit between the blade and the chip breaker. Probably more of an issue with the older, thinner chip breakers. The chip breaker has to be ground perfectly flat and to the tip to give a close fit over the whole length of the forward edge. Also consideration to this edge when compressed with the center screw.
What can you do if the chip breaker doesn’t pair well with the blade? I have light showing on both sides when they are screwed together but pretty sure the blade is flat.
That Stanley Jack looks well fettled. Good info to know. Just out of interest, I wanted to ask about how thin a shaving you can get with a metal plane. I use Japanese tools but I've always found dealing with kanna difficult. Do you think it's possible to get a 0.010 micron shaving from a modern metal plane?
What kind of wood are you planing? That makes a difference as well. If I’m planing a piece of cherry, that’s going to plane differently than basswood or old growth pine
Well, my planes are working better than they did when I started a couple of years back. Some one commented that it takes about 5 years to really get the hang of using them, and that is seeming to be true. The problem is that there are so many little tricks that you have to figure out on your own, and can't be taught. I am making progress. I am curious as to your feelings on the Japanese style pull planes. As some one who HAS to experiment, I started playing with them as well. At the very least, they are interesting, and take pretty much the same skills to work as the western style planes.
That's a lovely Stanley plane! When I sharpen my blades, I have a devil of a time feathering the edges...I put pressure on the edges for three seconds but it seems that the edges dig into my 16K stone. Is there a specific technique you use when feathering edges? Thanks for your content and have a wishing great, prosperous new year to the Cosman team!
If you are referring to the vintage thin Stanley blades yes they area bit mor prone to digging in because they are so thin. Put a little less pressure on the corner but spend more time on them...6-9 seconds
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for that tip. I occasionally had the same issue, though not with the Ray Iles replacement blades, which are 2.5mm rather than 2mm thick
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I had planned on face grain because that's what I thought would be the easiest to make. I find the idea of making end grain boards intriguing but intimidating mostly because I think it will be harder to create the alternating patterns.
Hi Mr Cosman, im new to the channel and wanted to say thanks for all the information and knowledge you share!I know this isn't related to this video but what type of adhesive do you use on laminating the mdf workbench tops and also what type of finish do you put on them? Im thinking about an mdf top for my first bench
I'll answer in case Rob doesn't see this. He recommends Titebond III for the glue & Tung oil or spray on lacquer for the finish. (I'm going to use Danish oil, as I've lots of it).
I just need some advice; I am paralyzed in my right arm, and would very much like to continue with hand tools. I already have a small block planer, which are made to work with 1 hand, and that suits me very well. But to what size of plane would you advise me to flatten wood? However, it would be soft wood such as SLS or CLS. Intentions are like birdhouses, feeders, and the like. Of course I can buy planed wood, but then half the fun is gone ;-)
@@chappo8100 do you go out of your way to insult and treat others poorly? What an asinine thing to say to someone with an honest question and a real problem he’s dealing with! Do you have any friends?
Was that screw connecting blade & chip breaker, which appears to be Allen head, an OEM item on that plane, or a modification? I haven't seen that before. Also the depth adjustment knob...? It didn't look like the standard item either.
We work to make little improvements that make a difference. Jake and I developed the replacement “AdJustar”, a 5 spoke wheel, much easier to turn. Jake (son) developed replacement hex drive screws for the 5 main ones on planes. He also came up with the “grip” for comfortably using the plane on a shooting board.
My problem is my blade wont move down when I screw clockwise. I don't quite get what force is meant to push the two pins that pass through the blade toward the opening. I have to open the catch and tap the blade down
That depends on what you are doing. If you are working wood prone to tear out then closing up the gap between the blade and the edge of the throat open will significantly help prevent tear out. If your wood is not tearing out then keep a wide mouth. Unlike the previous replier I don't believe positioning your chipbreaker super close to the blade edge provides any benefits.
I had a strange issue one time - the frog wasn't quite parallel to the mouth. Was very hard to get blade to cut evenly. I must have had it squirm slightly when I tightened it down, so now I watch closely that the leading edge of the frog is aligned properly. And wax that plane sole!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking wonderful. My question is this. In every woodworking video book or instruction there is one thing in common. All the pieces of wood are flat, straight and with parallel faces. It is the first step in anything you do. And if you loose half the wood in the planer so be it. I have been doing some work with big pieces. (10ft x 8in x 8in) where the faces are not parallel. And the corners are not sharp. How do you work with such pieces to make joints that are tight. For example on a corner brace. Also sometimes I want to take advantage of the natural curvatures of the wood but how do you mark such a piece?
🎉🎉hiya I have nomber 5 spear a d jackson but it's a screw on clip not a quick release and soon as I un done the blade it all just falls apart n I carnt keep it all strate and true evan with the blade movement stick
Well I dont think its the screw down cap iron verses a lever type cap iron. I do not recommend Spear and jackson planes. I bet you will have a better experience with a higher quality plane...Try a WoodRiver or a Lie Nielsen. I think you will find it a much better experience
@@RobCosmanWoodworking yeah I mean it's been the design for however many generations. I just don't get it it seems like if they made the slot tight enough that it didn't move in there then it would be forced to always stay in the same place. I don't know I'm just having a hell of a time trying to get and plans to do what they're supposed to I'm following all the great videos on your videos following Rex Krueger and I just can't get it going. Must be belt sander time
The edge of your blade needs to be straight, but it isn’t necessarily square to the sides of the blade, therefore requiring lateral adjustment. Are you sure your blade is straight? What plane are you using?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking spear and Jackson no 5. It's all I could afford so I followed one of Rex Kroger's videos on how to make a shity plane work the best it can. Problem is the first time I ground the iron I put too much trust in the honing guide and kinda skewed the crap out of it. So I had to lock it to my speed square and file grind it back to square and start over. I'm sure it's still a tiny bit off which I can manipulate with the lateral adjustment but still can't get it cutting evenly. I'm glad I'm working through all these mistakes with a low end plane though instead of something more expensive.
@adamguinnmusic5871 I don’t like to speak negatively about others, but recommendations like that often lead to frustration and not satisfaction. Satisfied that you didn’t have to spend a lot of money, but the money that you did spend, what has it got you? Check out my video on a review of a plane similar to that one, ua-cam.com/video/yNQ-5PsaDS8/v-deo.htmlsi=8hSy_AyzuNZO3lf2 And you’ll see what I mean. These “less expensive” tools are not designed or built by people with knowledge on how they function. Hence why they don’t wind up functioning properly.
I know the frog on a No. 5 Jack plane is adjustable, but what is the default open size? And, minimum and maximum sizes? Where don't you want your frog to be placed, ever? Frogs just don't seem to get talked about much, I'm guessing it's because the defaults work well enough, but as it is movable, I think it warrants discussion. Thanks in advance.
Sometimes you have to grind the edge of the blade to match the plane. If a blade with a square edge projects unevenly through the mouth of the plane and you don’t have enough lateral adjustment to correct it, grind it to fit.
Okay but how to fix a sole if it isn't flat. I've just checked one of my planes that doesn't seem to work properly and it's concave along the centre by about 0.5mm.
Love you rob your the best but I most admit that is quite frustrating when you say that the chip breaker wouldn’t make a difference if it was places closer to the edge 😊
I have seen the japanese video which is apparent "proof" of how setting a chip breaker close to the edge helps prevent tear-out, if that is what you are referring to. But in real world practice I cannot tell that it makes any difference so I am not a believer
First of all, you’re the man! I love your videos and I appreciate all the knowledge you’re passing on to all the people around the world❤ I saw this video 5 years ago and it changed the way I set up my planes. ua-cam.com/video/1bhh6kxXZOQ/v-deo.htmlsi=lk2fQr6AHehSENg8.
Thank you very much for this video, after years of not being able to figure out the little hand plainer of my dad's, thanks to your video I now know that I don't have a blade🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ I thought another part of it was the blade this whole time
I feel pretty dumbo but that's alright, thank you again😅🙏🙏
Found an old hand plane from my granddad in my parent's garage, then stumbled upon this channel. Got a new blade in it, and thanks to these videos learned how to sharpen it. I see why woodworkers are so passionate about their craft lol, it's a lot of fun!
I have a couple of Stanley planes from the 1940s (?) that belonged to my father. Due to surface rust, etc., I'm doing a full restoration on them.
I've watched a few of your videos, and they are fantastic. Fortunately, I've got various sharpening stones for knives, chisels, etc. - water, diamond, and one natural Japanese stone. There's nothing better or more important to have sharp edges. From kitchen to chisels to drill bits. There are myriad methods for getting a good edge, and each tool has its own subtle differences. It takes patience and practice to get good at it.
All that said, my favorite part of watching your videos (besides that excellent info and teaching style, of course) is the 'hockey tape' wrap you have on some of your hand tools :)
I've been doing the same since my days playing ice hockey as a yute, on all manner of handles. I can't begin to count the number of non-hockey players to whom I've taught that wrap. Second to a sharp edge is being able to get a good purchase on a handle.
Thanks for posting these.
Thanks for the confirmation!
One of the great things about Mr. Cosman; although he sells tools and equipment, he is CONSTANTLY giving away valuable training and teachings for free. Thanks Rob, for all that you do!
"If you still can't get it to work, buy a belt sander."
Dang, that's cold, bro!
This was an excellent video, thank you.
Happy New Year!
what can I say? If after all these things and it still doesn't work....
Not 'cold' at all...he's calling a 'spade' , a 'spade'. He's an excellent communicator and a wealth of knowledge ~
Thank you for everything Rob. I've learned SO much from watching you and putting your techniques into practical use. It has changed my life from being at my lowest point due to an ugly divorce leaving me alone with 5 children, to having a level head and something to look forward to after bed time. Your teaching may have ultimately saved my life. Thank you again from the bottom of my heart and God bless you and yours.
I have a plane addiction. I look for old planes to restore and I love using them. Thank you for your videos!
I’m so happy to see you are demonstrating with a Stanley tool, making this educational content relevant to all viewers, even though I’m sure you own plenty more expensive planes. Happy new year.
I was in the process of restoring it to hang on my wall display
Great video Rob, as always very informative. I bought a used plane ebay and evidently the guy I got it from stuck an old (almost worn out) blade in it that had the wrong angle on it. I spent hours trying to figure out what went wrong. So I came to your video and checked everything your suggested with no luck. I finally got a working plane and checked the angle and low and behold it was way off. Now using your instructions and the right angle on the blade it works like a charm. Thanks!
"If you still can't get it right, buy a belt sander."
😂😂😂😂
Rob is the best. Happy new year!
Happy New year to you and yours
The ‘Cozman Cometh’. Loving the flow, Rob!
Thank You Rob for starting out Why your .... Not, Your doing it wrong.
Thanks for a great video .
the shavings you show as you discuss identifying how sharp it is and if it is enough, doesn't it depend also on the wood you are working on?
I wax from heel to toe,thereby not cutting wax over the blade.Prosperous 2024 Rob,to you and yours and your magnificent team.Love from Sunny South Africa
A prosperous New Year to you. Luther was just in SA , Durban I think. You two should have linked up!
Thanks for this video and many of your other ones, Rob. If I ever come up to Canada, you're going to be one of the first addresses for me! Woodworking does something special for me and you pass along your love for woodworking, not just your knowledge and experience. I think that's rare. Thank you!
Rob, I have taken 3 of your workshops, and still learn so much from you! I really love it when I take out one of my handplanes, and know what to do if it is not working quite right! I may have to get one of those measuring devices for the blade!
Thank you! I'm a beginner struggling with my hand planes. I bought them used and am considering the purchase of new ones, but I'll try all of these tips first.
Rob - Great video - How did you getsuch a great fininsh on the Stanley No you were using ? .. As I would like to refurbish my no 5 1/2 to a simular finish .... Best wishes for 2024....
Hope you had a merry christmas, and wish you a blessed and happy new year
Happy holidays to you too
I fuckin love this guy! Experience seeps from every fiber of his being and every fiber of wood grain! 👍👍I thought that board was gonna be gone by the end of the video! 😂He planed it the whole time.
Rob, this is a great video and just about explains everything! One thing I believe is missing is "sharpening the blade past 45 degree", which I believe happens to people when they hand sharpen and progressively increase the angle. If this happens, the plane won't cut anymore.
Yup you are correct. I should have included that in this video. That make the second item we left out. Maybe we will do a follow up. Thanks.
I've been digging these tips out of robs movies for a while and they've made all the difference in my plane success. I would like to add that a solid hold on the material is really important. If it's not held solidly and immobilized that will cause issues. Seems obvious I know but I'm just passing it along.
Well thats probably the third tip that I should have included in the video that I did not. Thanks for the great comment
Thank you, Rob
Thanks for watching
40 years ago I wound up with my Grandfather’s #5 Jack plane I threw a piece of wood in the vise put the plane to it and it stopped dead ! I said to myself “this thing is stupid” lol and kept using my power tools. Then I stumbled on to Rob’s UA-cam channel and it changed the game. Unfortunately I lost that hand plane in a house fire in 2009 but if I still had it it would be taking .001 shavings. Thanks Rob !
I love comments like this. Sorry about your dad's plane but he would be proud you can pull a .001 thou saving!!!!!
Super good info I'm saving to get a 51/2 due to your Recommendation I'm definitely a beginner with hand tools I'm bound to make every mistake you mentioned haha
Well done, this man knows planes. I have learned so much watching your videos. 👍🏻🇨🇦
By the way did you make that Canadian flag behind you. I been looking for measurements to make the leaf, care to share.
thanks for sharing that
Happy New Year. Thanks for a great share.
Thanks for the info, wish I had this a couple years ago!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for a terrific video. I’ll try again. 😢
Yes....you can do it. Focus on the sharpening
How can I get this handplane here in Uganda Kampala, I really love your videos, they are too educative
Happy New Year!
and to you
Hi Rob, I don't think you mentioned my problem... I used David Charlesworth's method for prepping the chip breaker because there was always a gap between where it engages with the blade iron. I've used a business card up the top near the screw so it will force the gap to close and it works but id rather just have a chip breaker that doesn't have a gap. Is there a way to fix it or should I just buy a new one? I have a Clifton 5 1/2 Jack.
Excellent tutorial, thank you, Rob!
thanks for watching and commenting
I like that your plane pic for the video. Im curious though. I dont see these vids with oak or hickory, something hard. Is there a reason?
Hello and thanks for the great video
? Is that wax you are applying top the bottom of the plane? Thank you.
I love this guy.
Great information, Rob.
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year Rob
And to you
Very helpful. Thanks Rob and Happy New Year.
I appreciate the video. I do have a question for you. I have a couple newer Stanley planes. A low angle plane and an 8 inch or so plane. I can put a shaving edge on the blades, and I have followed the steps you have shown in the video. I still have a few problems. First neither of the planes will hold depth. Between the backlash in the depths screw, and I assume the looseness of the frog threads I find myself endless lowering the blade every few passes. I have never been able to pull a shaving as feathery as you (though I know in part, it can only be done with flatter boards). And without fail I have various levels of tearout. I know planning as such :
-> \
With the grain rising to the blade rather than away from it can cause this, but even if I plane in the opposite orientation it leaves these tiny little pock marks on the surface. I realize I spent some 20 dollars on these and I'm going to get what I pay for, but is there any hope to repair or strengthen them?
Spend your money wisely and once. Buy a good plane and get on with it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I suspected so, thanks.
I bought a replacement iron and chip breaker for my Stanley. They did not fit The hardness of both was well above Rockwell 60. I used the iron with a Stanley chip breaker and the chip breaker sharpened as a low angle plane iron. So mixing up the two is not as daft as it sounds. They both worked fine with keen edges!
Good solution
Great video!
HAPPY NEW YEARS COACH
I'm familiar with the adjusting knob being a circular brass knob. yours looks like a 'pin wheel' . Is that after market or is Stanley making them that way. Seems like a better way to adjust on the fly.
It’s an aftermarket knob that we designed and sell. robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/rob-cosmans-plane-adjustar-stanley-record-version
Our design, we have them to fit Stanley, Record, Luban, Lie-Nielsen and Woodriver, robcosman.com
"If that doesn't work....buy a belt sander". 🤣🤣🤣
I've followed all your advice regarding planes & sharpening & now have a 4½, two 5½s & a 7 (All 50+ year old Stanley Bailey's) which perform fantastically - unimaginably better than they used to.
Exactly what i was Looking for!
Glad it was timely for you
was that bench once a shuffleboard table?
LoL, Buy a belt sander!! Rob is one of the best!! AND he can teach!
It just popped out? An inside word that got out !!!!
Like your content, i figured it out for myself, but watched the whole thing anyway^^
But you realy helped me with confidentially planing small pieces!! (Live)
Well the Video ist so damn good it will save every Beginner any Frustration.
well thanks for hanging in there. As I said being able to assess the problem yourself is the skill level you need in order to master the plane. Great job
That's a proper video to watch on Jan 1 :)
And thanks for watching
Another issue can be the fit between the blade and the chip breaker. Probably more of an issue with the older, thinner chip breakers. The chip breaker has to be ground perfectly flat and to the tip to give a close fit over the whole length of the forward edge. Also consideration to this edge when compressed with the center screw.
What can you do if the chip breaker doesn’t pair well with the blade? I have light showing on both sides when they are screwed together but pretty sure the blade is flat.
Thanks great tips!!
Thanks for watching and commenting
That Stanley Jack looks well fettled. Good info to know.
Just out of interest, I wanted to ask about how thin a shaving you can get with a metal plane. I use Japanese tools but I've always found dealing with kanna difficult. Do you think it's possible to get a 0.010 micron shaving from a modern metal plane?
0.010 microns is 10 nanometers, so about a 1000 times less than a really thin shaving.
Sure. IT is just going to take a ton of tuning and setup. Just like the top kanna. The competition kanna are pretty much custom made to shave thin.
Is that Stanley type 20 5 1/2? With the adjustar added?
Sir your "ok back to the bench" was more appealing than your present computer generated Rob Cossman the master
We did research on the two spots and the computer animated won out 8 to 2
Nice Camera work!
I will tell Jake
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Oh, hey Rob ✌️
What type of wood is that? Pine? Soft Maple?
What kind of wood are you planing? That makes a difference as well. If I’m planing a piece of cherry, that’s going to plane differently than basswood or old growth pine
If your plane is sharp, species matters little barring high silica content exotics.
Well, my planes are working better than they did when I started a couple of years back. Some one commented that it takes about 5 years to really get the hang of using them, and that is seeming to be true. The problem is that there are so many little tricks that you have to figure out on your own, and can't be taught. I am making progress.
I am curious as to your feelings on the Japanese style pull planes. As some one who HAS to experiment, I started playing with them as well. At the very least, they are interesting, and take pretty much the same skills to work as the western style planes.
I stick to western planes. My woodworking is from the English tradition
Thanks.
thanks for watching and commenting
I copy his technique and buy his stuff. Makes my woodworking enjoyable.
That's a lovely Stanley plane! When I sharpen my blades, I have a devil of a time feathering the edges...I put pressure on the edges for three seconds but it seems that the edges dig into my 16K stone. Is there a specific technique you use when feathering edges? Thanks for your content and have a wishing great, prosperous new year to the Cosman team!
If you are referring to the vintage thin Stanley blades yes they area bit mor prone to digging in because they are so thin. Put a little less pressure on the corner but spend more time on them...6-9 seconds
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for that tip. I occasionally had the same issue, though not with the Ray Iles replacement blades, which are 2.5mm rather than 2mm thick
Have you ever done a chess/checker board? Most of the video's I see use sanders to get the top smooth. Is there a way to plane the surface to smooth?
Depends how you make it. Are you doing the squares end grain up or face grain up?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I had planned on face grain because that's what I thought would be the easiest to make. I find the idea of making end grain boards intriguing but intimidating mostly because I think it will be harder to create the alternating patterns.
Hi Mr Cosman, im new to the channel and wanted to say thanks for all the information and knowledge you share!I know this isn't related to this video but what type of adhesive do you use on laminating the mdf workbench tops and also what type of finish do you put on them? Im thinking about an mdf top for my first bench
I'll answer in case Rob doesn't see this.
He recommends Titebond III for the glue & Tung oil or spray on lacquer for the finish.
(I'm going to use Danish oil, as I've lots of it).
@GARDENER42 thank you I really appreciate the help!
@@andrewbailey5759 Rob's video & the cutting list/plans are worth the money (I think it was £40 as I'm in the UK).
I just need some advice; I am paralyzed in my right arm, and would very much like to continue with hand tools. I already have a small block planer, which are made to work with 1 hand, and that suits me very well. But to what size of plane would you advise me to flatten wood? However, it would be soft wood such as SLS or CLS. Intentions are like birdhouses, feeders, and the like. Of course I can buy planed wood, but then half the fun is gone ;-)
You can use a number 6 with 1 hand, just stop being a girl about it.
@@chappo8100 Sorry, but I'm asking for advice, not to be offended .
@@chappo8100 do you go out of your way to insult and treat others poorly? What an asinine thing to say to someone with an honest question and a real problem he’s dealing with! Do you have any friends?
Was that screw connecting blade & chip breaker, which appears to be Allen head, an OEM item on that plane, or a modification? I haven't seen that before. Also the depth adjustment knob...? It didn't look like the standard item either.
We work to make little improvements that make a difference. Jake and I developed the replacement “AdJustar”, a 5 spoke wheel, much easier to turn. Jake (son) developed replacement hex drive screws for the 5 main ones on planes. He also came up with the “grip” for comfortably using the plane on a shooting board.
My question is what type of wood are you surfacing in this video?
My problem is my blade wont move down when I screw clockwise. I don't quite get what force is meant to push the two pins that pass through the blade toward the opening. I have to open the catch and tap the blade down
what about frog position? How much gap should there be between the tip of the blade and the front of the mouth?
Slightly bigger than your shaving. 2-3mm. But it doesn’t really matter much, a really tight gap on the chip breaker matters a lot more.
That depends on what you are doing. If you are working wood prone to tear out then closing up the gap between the blade and the edge of the throat open will significantly help prevent tear out. If your wood is not tearing out then keep a wide mouth. Unlike the previous replier I don't believe positioning your chipbreaker super close to the blade edge provides any benefits.
I had a strange issue one time - the frog wasn't quite parallel to the mouth. Was very hard to get blade to cut evenly. I must have had it squirm slightly when I tightened it down, so now I watch closely that the leading edge of the frog is aligned properly. And wax that plane sole!
did you make a switch to Stanley?
Just for the video to represent the more commonly owned brand.
How can I ask questions on this channel.fornypur next video?
Ask!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking wonderful. My question is this. In every woodworking video book or instruction there is one thing in common. All the pieces of wood are flat, straight and with parallel faces. It is the first step in anything you do. And if you loose half the wood in the planer so be it.
I have been doing some work with big pieces. (10ft x 8in x 8in) where the faces are not parallel. And the corners are not sharp.
How do you work with such pieces to make joints that are tight. For example on a corner brace.
Also sometimes I want to take advantage of the natural curvatures of the wood but how do you mark such a piece?
🎉🎉hiya I have nomber 5 spear a d jackson but it's a screw on clip not a quick release and soon as I un done the blade it all just falls apart n I carnt keep it all strate and true evan with the blade movement stick
Well I dont think its the screw down cap iron verses a lever type cap iron. I do not recommend Spear and jackson planes. I bet you will have a better experience with a higher quality plane...Try a WoodRiver or a Lie Nielsen. I think you will find it a much better experience
Another thing you didn't mention is the chipbreaker not sitting flat on the iron so that wood chips get caught between them
0:35 when is the new cosman plane coming?
When we have all the kinks solved and ready for full production. Maybe another year????
That's grand, something to look forward to.
Can you say which plane it is going to be? My guess is a version of the 51/2
“Buy a belt sander” 😂😂 perfect ending
Who else hits the like button before the video even starts?
Rob has earned that 😀👍
I don't know
But how I check the beltsander is square?😅😅
this could be a new video genre, "sharp tools taking perfect cuts ASMR"
Is that a 5 or 5 1/2 just wondering
He usually uses a 5/12, but I think this Stanley is a 5
So why do they make them so the boade can move left and right at all?
Because the edge of the blade won’t always be perfectly square to the sides.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking yeah I mean it's been the design for however many generations. I just don't get it it seems like if they made the slot tight enough that it didn't move in there then it would be forced to always stay in the same place.
I don't know I'm just having a hell of a time trying to get and plans to do what they're supposed to I'm following all the great videos on your videos following Rex Krueger and I just can't get it going.
Must be belt sander time
The edge of your blade needs to be straight, but it isn’t necessarily square to the sides of the blade, therefore requiring lateral adjustment. Are you sure your blade is straight? What plane are you using?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking spear and Jackson no 5.
It's all I could afford so I followed one of Rex Kroger's videos on how to make a shity plane work the best it can.
Problem is the first time I ground the iron I put too much trust in the honing guide and kinda skewed the crap out of it.
So I had to lock it to my speed square and file grind it back to square and start over.
I'm sure it's still a tiny bit off which I can manipulate with the lateral adjustment but still can't get it cutting evenly.
I'm glad I'm working through all these mistakes with a low end plane though instead of something more expensive.
@adamguinnmusic5871 I don’t like to speak negatively about others, but recommendations like that often lead to frustration and not satisfaction. Satisfied that you didn’t have to spend a lot of money, but the money that you did spend, what has it got you? Check out my video on a review of a plane similar to that one,
ua-cam.com/video/yNQ-5PsaDS8/v-deo.htmlsi=8hSy_AyzuNZO3lf2
And you’ll see what I mean. These “less expensive” tools are not designed or built by people with knowledge on how they function. Hence why they don’t wind up functioning properly.
Have you seen the new grizzly planes they look like a bedrock style
I know the frog on a No. 5 Jack plane is adjustable, but what is the default open size? And, minimum and maximum sizes? Where don't you want your frog to be placed, ever? Frogs just don't seem to get talked about much, I'm guessing it's because the defaults work well enough, but as it is movable, I think it warrants discussion. Thanks in advance.
Narrow as you can get where it is still comfortable, and takes a nice shaving. Or go extra narrow so it breaks it off like sawdust. 2-3mm
WHAT is that ADJUSTER you're using!?
Our recent invention, call it the adjuStar! Make them for Stanley, record, lie-Nielsen, Woodriver, Luban.
Robcosman.com
"buy a belt sander" LOL!
I can't get my plane to take an even shaving. The right side of the iron always sticks out further than the left no matter how I adjust it.
Sometimes you have to grind the edge of the blade to match the plane. If a blade with a square edge projects unevenly through the mouth of the plane and you don’t have enough lateral adjustment to correct it, grind it to fit.
Okay but how to fix a sole if it isn't flat. I've just checked one of my planes that doesn't seem to work properly and it's concave along the centre by about 0.5mm.
Did Jake steal your Woodriver plane? Happy New Year to you and your family.
I was just restoring and old Number 5 to mount to mu wall and was using it when it was time to film
Hi Rob great video as usual,as a matter of interest the adjuststar you sell do you ship to the uk? All the best for 2024.
Every day! Different models for Luban, Stanley/Record, Lie-Nielsen and Woodriver. I’m
yes of course. We ship all over the world. Postal prices we cannot control but we ship almost everywhere
Is that real hair or is attached to his cap?!
You forgot "your mouth opening is too tight because your frog is too far forward, and your plane is getting clogged up"
"Buy a belt sander 😛" 🤣
Love you rob your the best but I most admit that is quite frustrating when you say that the chip breaker wouldn’t make a difference if it was places closer to the edge 😊
I have seen the japanese video which is apparent "proof" of how setting a chip breaker close to the edge helps prevent tear-out, if that is what you are referring to. But in real world practice I cannot tell that it makes any difference so I am not a believer
First of all, you’re the man! I love your videos and I appreciate all the knowledge you’re passing on to all the people around the world❤ I saw this video 5 years ago and it changed the way I set up my planes. ua-cam.com/video/1bhh6kxXZOQ/v-deo.htmlsi=lk2fQr6AHehSENg8.
I know the answer to this one 🤔
It’s not plugged in or the battery’s flat ❤️
????? Can u please send a video out with one u screw of instead of screw please 😊😊😊😢😢😢
??
Didnt understand the part when adjusting the lateral lever you were also pushing the blade.
Rob spun the depth adjustment wheel to expose more blade, then used the lateral adjustment lever to level the blade, then retracted the blade back in.
@@tim_biller Thank you. Have a great new year.
LOL!! 🤣 Buy a belt sander! LOL
Sometimes those inside words just pop out!
Watching, I feel that you really need a shavings ejector- you spend half your time removing it by hand.