Kawasaki Ninja 1000 / Z1000 Clutch Basket Mod Part 3 - Re-assembly
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Some Ninja 1000 and Z1000 owners have an issue with a dry clutch causing noise, chattering and inconsistent engagement. This mod was given as the answer but was never clearly detailed. Follow this 4 part log and you can do this as well. It has solved my chattering clutch issue. My 2011 Ninja 1000 with 10,000km would chatter and vibrate excessively when it was starting to get warm. It would do it sometimes when fully warm as well. I didn't modify the clutch rod, so far it seems fine without this part of the mod. Part 1 - Disassembly
• Kawasaki NINJA 1000 / ...
Part 2 - Basket Drilling
• Kawasaki Ninja 1000 / ...
Part 3 - Clutch re-assembly
Part 4 - Cover install, comments and antifreeze change
• Kawasaki Ninja 1000 / ...
* This is just a guide of how I did it. Use this at your own risk*
I assembled my clutch hub the wrong way(with a gap) like at 8:11 in your video. And because of this, I noticed I had made a mistake. You helped incredibly. You're awesome for making this video.
I hope you have a wonderful day!
- Vincent
Been having problems with the clutch not disengaging, stripped it all down replaced most of the parts with new and still won't disengage, and after buying all new tools to help strip and rebuild it
Check the clutch release fork maybe? (The little fork lever in the clutch lid that pulls the bar with the needle bearings).. It is a little tricky to align. When you pull the clutch, is there pressure on the lever and does it want to spring back? Also, make sure your clutch has good play at the handle. Should be tight except for only a few mm of play. Be sure to adjust the upper and lower adjusters to get maximum pull. They may stick hard at first if you think the cluch is working ( lots of tentioned pull) and free play when loose then I would start the bike in neutral lock both brakes and drop it into first, it should release any grip the plates have. If it is stuck, the motor will stall. (Try at your own risk).
Need to check my needle bearings on clutch basket, so looking at this if i don't have a flashy torque wrench to tighten up, I'm screwed
Well, without the wrench, you can get an idea as to how tight it is by watching me heave on it. The needle bearings are for the clutch release, don't need to pull the basket out for that. That flashy wrench was $70 on sale. Money well spent.
I don't anyone knows why the last friction plate has to be off set by one tooth! and this one seems to be the only one that moves when the pressure plate moves
I hear its done to move the stress onto another rib of the clutch basket from the others. It is the first plate to make contact and bears a lot of torque initially.
What was part number of basket securing tool?
EBC tool CT 004.
Is this the same for z1000sx, and what is the space between the 5th then the start of the new line?
This is the Z1000SX being done. Not sure what you mean about the measurement of the 5th? I assume you mean the drill holes. After the farthest hole, drill the next groove on the inner side. I don't think I spaced any and the number of holes were even, if I remember correctly.
@@gaving4359 hi I ment where you left of to the start of the new line, but you have made it clear now, really appreciate it.
Hello! Can I find out the number of the EBC key ?
CT004 is the number of the tool
@@gaving4359 Thank you!
How did it go after the mod? No problems untill now?
Problem solved. No issues since.
@@gaving4359 cool, good job ✌