Thanks, I used a light skim coat, literally 1mm wide and flattened it with my finger to evenly coat the mating surfaces. Most mating surfaces that hold liquid need a gasket and a sealant these days. The sealants are just more effective at preventing leaks vs gasket alone. Use sparingly, you don't want it oozing out when you tighten it.
I really like your videos, they are easy to follow and very instructive. I have the same issue with my bike (exactly the same model and year) and will do this modification during the winter. Keep up the good work, i learn a lot from you.
Fantastic video series! Question on the final assembly. Why did you apply sealant on both sides of the gasket? The service manual is a bit unclear about it "Apply silicone sealant to the area where the mating surface of the crankcase touches the clutch cover gasket" and has arrow pointing to two areas. Too many opinions out there, so interested in experienced mechanic advise.
Good tutorial. Do you still have her? If so long term update and current milage? I have a 2012 and I’m sure I need this mod. I have the exact symtoms, but mostly only when cold
Yes, still have it. Best bike i ever owned! Have 22kmso far, no problems. Shift peg gets a little still when it needs an oil change but goes back to normal after. Never had any issues with the shutter/chatter since the mod.
I'm buying a 2011 ninja 100sx this weekend with 46k km.... when did you start noticing this issue. I know he just had the valves readjusted 2500km ago. Just looking into possible issues I can run into after 40 000 km
Hello , first of all great video and instructions . I have a z1000 2010 and I'm thinking doing this mod cause I tired of these rough gear changes, did it work ? The gears change smoother after this ?
Thanks! It did help. The problem hasn't come back. I found improvement also when i used fresh semi-synthetic oil. Its quite usable with no issues. My issue was a violent stuttering when slowly letting out the clutch. I read on some forums was a dry clutch issue,
@@gaving4359 so is it worth doing the mod? I asked the forum too because I want to do it,that clunk shifts and downshifts makes me crazy , I read somewhere in the forum that was an issue about this mod , something about the oil consumption or smth. Did you notice any cons about it ? Will I get smooth shifts both up and down shifts ? Also you didn't grind the pin as it shows in the forum , how do I know if my pin is ok without the grinding part. Thank you very much for your quick answer and sorry to bomb you with questions , if you have time to answer i would appreciate it.
I had no issues with shifting before the mod. I had to do it for the shutter, at one point it almost made me drop the bike during a slow clutch feathering turn. As I don't know what your bike has been through, mileage, maintenance etc, I can't really say. I would verify your clutch cable adjustment and try a semi-synthetic oil first. If you have a high mileage bike that the previous owner rode hard, the clutch may be burned or worn. You won't know until your into it. I didn't mod the button, I figured I would try it without first as I was concerned about oil pressure loss to the rest of the engine. If I had no improvement, I would have went back in. If you're competent in mechanics, and willing, there's no reason not to open it up and look inside. You may need a new clutch (which is a few hundred). I have to say, do it at your own risk, I'm not an expert but it solved my issues. I have heard also that a swap to the slipper clutch from the versys 1000 is a good upgrade. I opted out due to cost. Good luck.
Thank you , I dont have problem , when I first start up in morning my clutch also make some noice when i pull and let go clutch. The reason I want to do it Is because i want smooth shifts. I spoke with my dealer here in Greece and he said its normal for Kawasakis to have rough shifts up and down. The thing I'm doing for smooth shifts is before i shift up and before I press the clutch I press with foot the gear shifter a little up to take out the play and then I press clutch and shift all the way . But most of the time especially in 2nd gear it makes clunk noice , when I'm down shifting the same clunk noice , in always looking my speed before downshift cause I dont want to be hard for the engine braking for example ,let's say I'm at 6th and slowing , at 55 I shift down to 5 , at 44 I shift down to 4th, at 33 I shift at 3rd,etc. But when I'm doing this to 2nd and 1st its rough with clunk noice. Maybe I'm doing something wrong I dont know. Did you have an issue with the oil pressure ? Tommorow I will contact my dealer to ask him about this mod and I will update here , thank you again for your answers. Have a good day my friend.
Yeah, my gears will "growel" a bit and become silent when I pull in the clutch. I don't preload the shifter when I shift. I just crack the clutch a bit and tap on the shifter and it moves smooth. That may be your issue. The Ninja is bad for engine braking. I have raised the idle RPM to about 1300-1400 RPM and it's a totally different feel. I may lower it if I get stuck in traffic but otherwise no issues for years. I focus on engine RPM over road speed to shift also, Mostly by ear. Upshift at 6-7k and down shift at @ 3k. It's funny that you only have the noise in 1st and 2nd. Those 2 gears get used a lot. Wondering if your gear Syncro's could be worn? With worn syncros, the next gear wont spool up to speed before engagement. This is my first Kawasaki. I found the shift notches vague. my Yamaha's were more clean and crisp. Suzuki similar. Could be from abuse of the previous owner. Haven't had another to judge it by.
Great video. Everyone else stop before the cover gets installed. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words. I hope to bring more as I live with it and do more maintenance on it.
Thanks, I used a light skim coat, literally 1mm wide and flattened it with my finger to evenly coat the mating surfaces. Most mating surfaces that hold liquid need a gasket and a sealant these days. The sealants are just more effective at preventing leaks vs gasket alone. Use sparingly, you don't want it oozing out when you tighten it.
I really like your videos, they are easy to follow and very instructive.
I have the same issue with my bike (exactly the same model and year) and will do this modification during the winter.
Keep up the good work, i learn a lot from you.
Fantastic video series! Question on the final assembly. Why did you apply sealant on both sides of the gasket? The service manual is a bit unclear about it
"Apply silicone sealant to the area where the mating surface of the crankcase touches the clutch cover gasket" and has arrow pointing to two areas. Too many opinions out there, so interested in experienced mechanic advise.
Good tutorial. Do you still have her? If so long term update and current milage? I have a 2012 and I’m sure I need this mod. I have the exact symtoms, but mostly only when cold
Yes, still have it. Best bike i ever owned! Have 22kmso far, no problems. Shift peg gets a little still when it needs an oil change but goes back to normal after. Never had any issues with the shutter/chatter since the mod.
I'm buying a 2011 ninja 100sx this weekend with 46k km.... when did you start noticing this issue. I know he just had the valves readjusted 2500km ago. Just looking into possible issues I can run into after 40 000 km
I did the job at 11k km.
Hello , first of all great video and instructions . I have a z1000 2010 and I'm thinking doing this mod cause I tired of these rough gear changes, did it work ? The gears change smoother after this ?
Thanks! It did help. The problem hasn't come back. I found improvement also when i used fresh semi-synthetic oil. Its quite usable with no issues. My issue was a violent stuttering when slowly letting out the clutch. I read on some forums was a dry clutch issue,
@@gaving4359 so is it worth doing the mod? I asked the forum too because I want to do it,that clunk shifts and downshifts makes me crazy , I read somewhere in the forum that was an issue about this mod , something about the oil consumption or smth. Did you notice any cons about it ? Will I get smooth shifts both up and down shifts ? Also you didn't grind the pin as it shows in the forum , how do I know if my pin is ok without the grinding part. Thank you very much for your quick answer and sorry to bomb you with questions , if you have time to answer i would appreciate it.
I had no issues with shifting before the mod. I had to do it for the shutter, at one point it almost made me drop the bike during a slow clutch feathering turn. As I don't know what your bike has been through, mileage, maintenance etc, I can't really say. I would verify your clutch cable adjustment and try a semi-synthetic oil first. If you have a high mileage bike that the previous owner rode hard, the clutch may be burned or worn. You won't know until your into it. I didn't mod the button, I figured I would try it without first as I was concerned about oil pressure loss to the rest of the engine. If I had no improvement, I would have went back in. If you're competent in mechanics, and willing, there's no reason not to open it up and look inside. You may need a new clutch (which is a few hundred). I have to say, do it at your own risk, I'm not an expert but it solved my issues. I have heard also that a swap to the slipper clutch from the versys 1000 is a good upgrade. I opted out due to cost. Good luck.
Thank you , I dont have problem , when I first start up in morning my clutch also make some noice when i pull and let go clutch. The reason I want to do it Is because i want smooth shifts. I spoke with my dealer here in Greece and he said its normal for Kawasakis to have rough shifts up and down. The thing I'm doing for smooth shifts is before i shift up and before I press the clutch I press with foot the gear shifter a little up to take out the play and then I press clutch and shift all the way . But most of the time especially in 2nd gear it makes clunk noice , when I'm down shifting the same clunk noice , in always looking my speed before downshift cause I dont want to be hard for the engine braking for example ,let's say I'm at 6th and slowing , at 55 I shift down to 5 , at 44 I shift down to 4th, at 33 I shift at 3rd,etc. But when I'm doing this to 2nd and 1st its rough with clunk noice. Maybe I'm doing something wrong I dont know. Did you have an issue with the oil pressure ? Tommorow I will contact my dealer to ask him about this mod and I will update here , thank you again for your answers. Have a good day my friend.
Yeah, my gears will "growel" a bit and become silent when I pull in the clutch. I don't preload the shifter when I shift. I just crack the clutch a bit and tap on the shifter and it moves smooth. That may be your issue. The Ninja is bad for engine braking. I have raised the idle RPM to about 1300-1400 RPM and it's a totally different feel. I may lower it if I get stuck in traffic but otherwise no issues for years. I focus on engine RPM over road speed to shift also, Mostly by ear. Upshift at 6-7k and down shift at @ 3k. It's funny that you only have the noise in 1st and 2nd. Those 2 gears get used a lot. Wondering if your gear Syncro's could be worn? With worn syncros, the next gear wont spool up to speed before engagement. This is my first Kawasaki. I found the shift notches vague. my Yamaha's were more clean and crisp. Suzuki similar. Could be from abuse of the previous owner. Haven't had another to judge it by.
Great video
great video! thx