Personally, I always give my raw denim a pre-soak before wear around room temperature whether it's unsanforized or sanforized. Whilst you certainly don't have to on sanforized, some of the denim can be really overstarched which may be good for razor sharp super fast fades, but it will stress the denim too much at the creases causing way too many blowouts. By doing an initial pre-soak at a cool temperature, you remove most of the excess starch but almost no indigo & you still get high contrast fades without blowouts at the 6 month mark. If you're investing good money in high quality denim, as I have since my first Evisu Lot No.1 in 1998, I can definitely recommend this procedure 👍
@@chawenhalo0089 If it's unsanforized one wash, so stitched together without any shrinking & then washed so you purchase them at their shrunken state, you should be ok to go straight to wearing them. I've never seen any sanforized one wash on sale tbh as the shrinking is already taken care of before the jeans are stitched together, but if they do indeed exist the 'one wash' suggests a soak after they're made so I probably wouldn't bother doing another 👍
@@gaj5701 bought my 1st raw jeans from Momotaro (Copper Label) and it did state that they were sanforised and one washed. It made sense to me as newbie to take some of the guess work out of sizing. Interestingly enough, it seems merchants websites give the sizes from off the production. With the one wash option (in seawater no less, LOL) they were off by 1 cm here and there. That was consistent with sanforised shrinkage of 3% as stated and the go and to from various models. I'll add that the Kojima merchant were good enough to re-measure to ensure accurate sizing prior to shipping. 30+ days of wearing and they're starting to fade now. I'll probably shove them in the washing machine in another 30 days.
@@chawenhalo0089 I'd probably leave them for a couple more months then, unless they're filthy or stink, to develop the fades a bit further before washing. Do it by hand in relatively cool water if you can rather than the machine though as you may get unwanted markings due to the heavy agitation.
The problem with denim is not how to wash them is not being able to wear them often enough cos we have too many pairs of them while there are only 365 days in a year.
For me I think having 32 pairs is good you can wear one each month of the year that's 12 times the most I wear one pair of jeans. It's going on my first year and I've yet to do any wash and my jeans still look and smell new.
ÉHÉH...Lets do it i am 65 since my first raw Lois and years and years of stf 501 and i found Brave Star Selvedge because Levis is not the same anymore and i wash my jeans with soup,after they loose,fades will arrive naturaly
In my experience the temperature of the water in terms of damage to the denim and materials after washing is the key factor. I ruined a pair of Rogue Territory Selvedge denims as they shrunk considerably in both the the waist and inside leg. Unfortunately their website gave no info on expected shrinkage. I moved to Iron Heart and have 5 pairs. I’ve only washed one pair of 555-01 denims at 40C and there was very little shrinkage. (Excellent website advice from Iron Heart compared to rogue territory.) One problem with the Iron Heart at 40C was the leather patch deteriorated significantly even after treatment prior to washing. My advice is a hand wash in the bath with Woolite denim wash at a very lukewarm temperature. I’ve also used Day-to denim wash spray which freshens them up and is antibacterial. Leaves a fine mist which dries after 10 mins. Excellent product which caused no problem with the Iron Heart denims. I’ll never wash mine at 30C or 40 C again.
Body chemistry and well just personal hygiene have a lot to do with smelly jeans. I work with horses and my jeans don't begin to smell till about a month in. I'm a very hygienic person though.
i seen a Momtaro video were they guy explains that the reason they use indigo die is that it is activated by oxygen allowing the core of the fibre to be white and the outside can be heavily dyed. so the idea is that weft thread (is indigo) is worn and somewhat exposes the core of the fibre that is lighter in the center. and crocking will occur because the leftover dye is essentially filler and not the true colour of the jeans. thanks, great video
It is slightly more complex than that. If pure indigo was used to dye the jeans, it would rinse out the first time that you washed them leaving the denim sky blue. It would also spread throughout the fabric, leaving the inside of the jeans pale blue. To prevent this, sulphur is added to fix the dye. The more sulphur, the slower the fade, but the colour turns to a blacker blue. This video is a perfect example. During the first wash, the jeans in the center faded very little (high sulphur dye), while the other jeans that were bluer (lower sulphur dye) faded more. The composition of the dye is a very exact science. These days, oxygen is used to speed the process up, since the traditional dying process involved days or soaking in the vats. PS, Modern processes often use a pure sulphur rinse, to lessen colour transfer onto furniture and other clothing. I remember the days when a new pair of 501's would dye the bottom of your white tee-shirt blue, particularly after a light shower. The day that one of my friends wore his new Levi's when he visited his girlfriends parents and sat on their new settee is a story that he still tells 30 years later, LMAO.
I have to thank you. I have never heard of this before. This looks like something I could get into. I now see why this is a thing. Always had cheapo jeans and they sort of look ok but I am starting to appreciate raw denim. I told my wife and she is not keen on me spending £200 on a pair of jeans so when when I finally decide what to get, I'll have them delivered to work. Any thoughts on what brands I should consider?
Xtcy Saf You should look into Bravestar or TheUnbrandedBrand. They’re both cheaper selvedge denim brands. They’re still amazing quality, but you can get jeans from them for under $100 each. Also Levis shrink to fit 501s are raw denim as well and they retail for about $60. You’re welcome!
Hi there. Good tips on denim care thanks. I'm about to start on a fresh pair they are raw 501's old stock from around '97. Have had Unbranded selvedge and a few pairs of Sage denim. Also some Japanese denim but I look forward to really putting heavy wear on the Levi's and being patient before the first wash. Curious to see how they fade.
Did Hiut do the patch? If so, that is really cool of them! I really like the brand, I would like to see a bit more variation in the type of denim they use now they are well established. They tend to use a very uniform, starchy, mid weight denim... I would like something heavy, or organic and slubby!
I'm a little confused. My understanding is that it's best to wear selvedge denim for a few months before throwing it in the wash to get the best fades. But if I want a straight foldback cuff, I need to wash and dry the jeans a couple times (usually on warm setting) before getting it hemmed to the right length before cuffing.
Back in the 70,s I would buy and wash my stf levis in the washing machine. the denim would get a lovely fade over years. Thats why i hate the new dying of denim as not like old were the jeans would bleed and bleed . they use to get wispers and looked really good but the modern dying This does not happen. I do not understand why people dont want there jeans to fade these days.
they just want to have higher contrast fades... only indigo loss at the stress points like the whiskers. What your referring to are "vintage fades" where you can just toss them into the washer and get an allover lighter wash denim in the end.
I have been wearing my Ruttloff H3 denim since 6 months now and I follow more or less the same wash / soak cycle like you. I just got it out of the soak yesterday marking it's 6th month of wear. By the way what is that guitar in the background? Is that a Gibson Les Paul or the Epiphone?
A gentle wash at 30 degrees is fine for most people. The wool program with very little spin works best. Not using a harsh detergent is far more important. Soaking the jeans with water before starting the machine also prevents neat detergent from soaking into one area of the fabric.
Wow...! Really? I just wash them in the washing machine and be done with it. I do it for all my levi's. I don't really get it why it is done this way and is it common practice for denim?
When you hand wash your jeans they will last longer, prevent shrinkage, fade and look better and not get unwanted marks a washer can make. If you're paying over $200 for your jeans then there is a lot more motivation to take care of your investment.
Does it matter if you turn em inside out during soak/wash? Any difference from your experience? I myself do a soak after the creases have set in and at least a month of wearing to help soften the fibers to your point of preventing blowouts.
I honestly do not think it makes any real difference in a bath tub wash as there is minimal agitation.. if you were using a machine even on the gentlest wash then definitely turn inside out!
How was the stretch on the Oni's before the soak? I've been eyeing a pair of the 20oz secret denim but I've read that they can stretch a considerable amount.
James Cooper yeah heard bout that quite a lot. Could you pls help me a little ? How much was ur stretch ? Let’s say if I am 32 waist size, what size should I order considering I won’t get them washed?
If I buy a pair of shrink to fit raw 501 jeans and wear them for 6 months putting them in the freezer hanging them often, won't they shrink when I wash them finally?
10:33 I've hung up my jeans to dry like this but it significantly weakened the belt loops and I pulled up my 3sixteens one day and the belt loop blew out. I usually hang dry by folding my jeans over the hanger or over a chair outside.
They need soap. Part of the problem beyond the dirt and oil is the bacteria that helps to deteriorate the fabric. You could try Lysol or Febreeze, but eventually, washing them will be what you really need.
Up to you..don’t be too rigid..may wash once a week, once a month or once a year. Don’t wear denim to please others..please ourselves, our body needs clean environment.
Sorry. Don't understand. Why not just throw them in the washing machine and buy new ones when they look bad. Washing them in the bath and hanging them in the shower means that my wife and kids can't use either.
I'm guessing the world of raw denim may not be for you, but for those of us who buy a pair to last several years appreciate the way they naturally age according to how you wear them. Some do throw them in the machine for light vintage style fades, however most try to preserve the indigo as much as possible & have a very personal pair of jeans faded uniquely to ourselves. If you've ever seen a properly faded pair of raw jeans, you'll laugh hysterically at the prefaded jeans you see in stores & if you've ever felt the quality (probably double the weight of popular brands) you'd understand they're an investment piece. Not for everyone & that's ok 👍
You really made me laugh. I am sure that their are a few people around who would put their kids in the washing machine and throw their wife in the river rather than machine wash their jeans. 😉😉😉 No doubt if the baby got sick on their jeans, it would be grounds for a divorce 🤣
Personally, I always give my raw denim a pre-soak before wear around room temperature whether it's unsanforized or sanforized. Whilst you certainly don't have to on sanforized, some of the denim can be really overstarched which may be good for razor sharp super fast fades, but it will stress the denim too much at the creases causing way too many blowouts. By doing an initial pre-soak at a cool temperature, you remove most of the excess starch but almost no indigo & you still get high contrast fades without blowouts at the 6 month mark. If you're investing good money in high quality denim, as I have since my first Evisu Lot No.1 in 1998, I can definitely recommend this procedure 👍
Put some vinegar in the water and it will stop the indigo loss
Is it the same as when you get new raw denim that's sanforised and one wash?
@@chawenhalo0089 If it's unsanforized one wash, so stitched together without any shrinking & then washed so you purchase them at their shrunken state, you should be ok to go straight to wearing them. I've never seen any sanforized one wash on sale tbh as the shrinking is already taken care of before the jeans are stitched together, but if they do indeed exist the 'one wash' suggests a soak after they're made so I probably wouldn't bother doing another 👍
@@gaj5701 bought my 1st raw jeans from Momotaro (Copper Label) and it did state that they were sanforised and one washed. It made sense to me as newbie to take some of the guess work out of sizing. Interestingly enough, it seems merchants websites give the sizes from off the production. With the one wash option (in seawater no less, LOL) they were off by 1 cm here and there. That was consistent with sanforised shrinkage of 3% as stated and the go and to from various models. I'll add that the Kojima merchant were good enough to re-measure to ensure accurate sizing prior to shipping. 30+ days of wearing and they're starting to fade now. I'll probably shove them in the washing machine in another 30 days.
@@chawenhalo0089 I'd probably leave them for a couple more months then, unless they're filthy or stink, to develop the fades a bit further before washing. Do it by hand in relatively cool water if you can rather than the machine though as you may get unwanted markings due to the heavy agitation.
The problem with denim is not how to wash them is not being able to wear them often enough cos we have too many pairs of them while there are only 365 days in a year.
i recently got my first pair so thats not much of a problem for me🤣
I usually have one or two I wear at a time that I completly trash before I get new ones!
Exactly mate, especially during covid, no chance/reason to wear denim.
For me I think having 32 pairs is good you can wear one each month of the year that's 12 times the most I wear one pair of jeans. It's going on my first year and I've yet to do any wash and my jeans still look and smell new.
Well I only have 3 pair so I guess I'm good.
Imagine someone snook into his house and just washed all his jeans :/
ÉHÉH...Lets do it i am 65 since my first raw Lois and years and years of stf 501 and i found Brave Star Selvedge because Levis is not the same anymore and i wash my jeans with soup,after they loose,fades will arrive naturaly
Heisenberg Imagine if I sneak into your lab and cook my own recipe
Zincelec nothin better than 99.1 my friend
Lmao
In my experience the temperature of the water in terms of damage to the denim and materials after washing is the key factor. I ruined a pair of Rogue Territory Selvedge denims as they shrunk considerably in both the the waist and inside leg. Unfortunately their website gave no info on expected shrinkage. I moved to Iron Heart and have 5 pairs. I’ve only washed one pair of 555-01 denims at 40C and there was very little shrinkage. (Excellent website advice from Iron Heart compared to rogue territory.) One problem with the Iron Heart at 40C was the leather patch deteriorated significantly even after treatment prior to washing. My advice is a hand wash in the bath with Woolite denim wash at a very lukewarm temperature. I’ve also used Day-to denim wash spray which freshens them up and is antibacterial. Leaves a fine mist which dries after 10 mins. Excellent product which caused no problem with the Iron Heart denims. I’ll never wash mine at 30C or 40 C again.
yeah always keep it as cold as can be , never anything above 20 , 30 is crazy , dont even mention 40 :)
Body chemistry and well just personal hygiene have a lot to do with smelly jeans. I work with horses and my jeans don't begin to smell till about a month in. I'm a very hygienic person though.
Vinegar in the washing water will help stop indigo bleed
i seen a Momtaro video were they guy explains that the reason they use indigo die is that it is activated by oxygen allowing the core of the fibre to be white and the outside can be heavily dyed. so the idea is that weft thread (is indigo) is worn and somewhat exposes the core of the fibre that is lighter in the center. and crocking will occur because the leftover dye is essentially filler and not the true colour of the jeans. thanks, great video
It is slightly more complex than that. If pure indigo was used to dye the jeans, it would rinse out the first time that you washed them leaving the denim sky blue. It would also spread throughout the fabric, leaving the inside of the jeans pale blue.
To prevent this, sulphur is added to fix the dye. The more sulphur, the slower the fade, but the colour turns to a blacker blue.
This video is a perfect example. During the first wash, the jeans in the center faded very little (high sulphur dye), while the other jeans that were bluer (lower sulphur dye) faded more.
The composition of the dye is a very exact science.
These days, oxygen is used to speed the process up, since the traditional dying process involved days or soaking in the vats.
PS, Modern processes often use a pure sulphur rinse, to lessen colour transfer onto furniture and other clothing.
I remember the days when a new pair of 501's would dye the bottom of your white tee-shirt blue, particularly after a light shower.
The day that one of my friends wore his new Levi's when he visited his girlfriends parents and sat on their new settee is a story that he still tells 30 years later, LMAO.
Have to agree with you. I’ve done the 6 month stretch and then the crouch blows. Even heavy denim, makes no difference.
I have to thank you. I have never heard of this before. This looks like something I could get into. I now see why this is a thing. Always had cheapo jeans and they sort of look ok but I am starting to appreciate raw denim. I told my wife and she is not keen on me spending £200 on a pair of jeans so when when I finally decide what to get, I'll have them delivered to work. Any thoughts on what brands I should consider?
Xtcy Saf You should look into Bravestar or TheUnbrandedBrand. They’re both cheaper selvedge denim brands. They’re still amazing quality, but you can get jeans from them for under $100 each. Also Levis shrink to fit 501s are raw denim as well and they retail for about $60. You’re welcome!
I come from Berlin (G) and I'm very excited about Bravestar. My first Raws were Edwin (ED-45+47) for 150€ each.
Hi there. Good tips on denim care thanks. I'm about to start on a fresh pair they are raw 501's old stock from around '97. Have had Unbranded selvedge and a few pairs of Sage denim. Also some Japanese denim but I look forward to really putting heavy wear on the Levi's and being patient before the first wash. Curious to see how they fade.
Thanks for this, lots of great tips.
I’m a big fan of my Hiuts (I have 6 pairs, including a pair with custom leather tag I had made for my wedding).
Did Hiut do the patch? If so, that is really cool of them! I really like the brand, I would like to see a bit more variation in the type of denim they use now they are well established. They tend to use a very uniform, starchy, mid weight denim... I would like something heavy, or organic and slubby!
DevonReviewer yes, they did the patch. I had a whole bunch made for groomsmen.
They often vary the denim but they are generally in short runs.
That is really cool. I keep an eye on the short runs... waiting for 18-21oz!
If you have a newer washing machine you can substitute it for the tub because there are new washing modes now
I'm a little confused. My understanding is that it's best to wear selvedge denim for a few months before throwing it in the wash to get the best fades. But if I want a straight foldback cuff, I need to wash and dry the jeans a couple times (usually on warm setting) before getting it hemmed to the right length before cuffing.
Back in the 70,s I would buy and wash my stf levis in the washing machine. the denim would get a lovely fade over years. Thats why i hate the new dying of denim as not like old were the jeans would bleed and bleed . they use to get wispers and looked really good but the modern dying This does not happen. I do not understand why people dont want there jeans to fade these days.
they just want to have higher contrast fades... only indigo loss at the stress points like the whiskers. What your referring to are "vintage fades" where you can just toss them into the washer and get an allover lighter wash denim in the end.
I have been wearing my Ruttloff H3 denim since 6 months now and I follow more or less the same wash / soak cycle like you. I just got it out of the soak yesterday marking it's 6th month of wear.
By the way what is that guitar in the background? Is that a Gibson Les Paul or the Epiphone?
What are you thoughts of washing in the washing machine on cold and hang dry? I have a pair of Roy R01 I haven’t washed yet
A gentle wash at 30 degrees is fine for most people. The wool program with very little spin works best.
Not using a harsh detergent is far more important.
Soaking the jeans with water before starting the machine also prevents neat detergent from soaking into one area of the fabric.
clothes hanger in the shower, where did you buy it? That rod
Freezing doesn't kill the bacteria. And eww.
Washing is essential for high contrast fades, if you don't wash all that dirt wont give you electric blue fades
Wow...! Really?
I just wash them in the washing machine and be done with it. I do it for all my levi's.
I don't really get it why it is done this way and is it common practice for denim?
Are your Levi's *raw* denim?
When you hand wash your jeans they will last longer, prevent shrinkage, fade and look better and not get unwanted marks a washer can make. If you're paying over $200 for your jeans then there is a lot more motivation to take care of your investment.
I use Nordstrom Unscented Delicate Fabric Wash.
Does it matter if you turn em inside out during soak/wash? Any difference from your experience?
I myself do a soak after the creases have set in and at least a month of wearing to help soften the fibers to your point of preventing blowouts.
I honestly do not think it makes any real difference in a bath tub wash as there is minimal agitation.. if you were using a machine even on the gentlest wash then definitely turn inside out!
im just know that few people starch the denim..what for?
shorty leatherworks the creases will be tighter so the fade lines will be more prominent
How was the stretch on the Oni's before the soak? I've been eyeing a pair of the 20oz secret denim but I've read that they can stretch a considerable amount.
James Cooper yeah heard bout that quite a lot. Could you pls help me a little ? How much was ur stretch ? Let’s say if I am 32 waist size, what size should I order considering I won’t get them washed?
Just spray a natural fabric deodorizer once a week and you're jeans will smell fine.
If I buy a pair of shrink to fit raw 501 jeans and wear them for 6 months putting them in the freezer hanging them often, won't they shrink when I wash them finally?
Yes. If you are going for shrink to fit you really must have an initial soak to get the shrink out
I was looking to buy Dr Blacks denim wash. Would you say Woolite was as good. I did read somewhere that it prevents fading.
10:33 I've hung up my jeans to dry like this but it significantly weakened the belt loops and I pulled up my 3sixteens one day and the belt loop blew out. I usually hang dry by folding my jeans over the hanger or over a chair outside.
I use a hanger that has 2 clips on it. Clip it to the back waistband without any issues .
can you just wet the blowout areas without washing?
They need soap. Part of the problem beyond the dirt and oil is the bacteria that helps to deteriorate the fabric. You could try Lysol or Febreeze, but eventually, washing them will be what you really need.
Where did u get the soap from ? Denimio?
Shouldn’t you flip them inside out when you wash them in the tub, or is that only when you machine wash?
Up to you..don’t be too rigid..may wash once a week, once a month or once a year. Don’t wear denim to please others..please ourselves, our body needs clean environment.
Thanks. Can I iron the jeans after drying?
Nooooooooooo!!!
Nice watch. Is that a Seiko 5?
Seiko divers have the crown at the 4oclock position. His looks like a sub.
@@braidkid thanks for that Ryan 🖒🇦🇺
Are all selvedge jeans raw denim?
i dont think so
Life goal: get a sick fade before the crotch blows out.
Not inside out?
Anyways inside out
my thoughts
Great
500th like 😂
Raw denim is a little overrated if you think you can get many days over 200 with a crotch blow. I’ve blown so many pair in the past 7 years.
Put a light coat of bees wax wear them soak them in salt water when too dirty
Sorry. Don't understand. Why not just throw them in the washing machine and buy new ones when they look bad. Washing them in the bath and hanging them in the shower means that my wife and kids can't use either.
I'm guessing the world of raw denim may not be for you, but for those of us who buy a pair to last several years appreciate the way they naturally age according to how you wear them. Some do throw them in the machine for light vintage style fades, however most try to preserve the indigo as much as possible & have a very personal pair of jeans faded uniquely to ourselves. If you've ever seen a properly faded pair of raw jeans, you'll laugh hysterically at the prefaded jeans you see in stores & if you've ever felt the quality (probably double the weight of popular brands) you'd understand they're an investment piece. Not for everyone & that's ok 👍
Put em in the garage
Yes, I now notice the fake fades every where.... some are very bad. They seem tacky, like fake Rolex or
something.
leave the room please
You really made me laugh. I am sure that their are a few people around who would put their kids in the washing machine and throw their wife in the river rather than machine wash their jeans. 😉😉😉
No doubt if the baby got sick on their jeans, it would be grounds for a divorce 🤣
Dude that’s nasty bro
I spend big money on Japanese raw denim, and within two years, the crotches are blown. This makes daddy saddy.
Wash them more often. Denim needs water.
stop being fat
I don't wash ever and just spray a natural deodorizer on my jeans once a week.
Did you polish your center links on the Sub?