Wow. Thanks for the great video. My brother and I had the Two Speed Coaster Breaks on our bikes in the early 1960's. We figured out how it all works when we had problems. The bearing cone on the main sproket wore in and the high clutch cone began slipping. I bought one at a flea market last week.
THANKS OKBRIDGES, YOU HELPED ME RESOLVE SOME OF MY 2 SPEED RED BAND PROBLEMS. STILL HAVE A HUB WHERE THE LOW SPEED CLUTCH WONT ENGAGE THE LOW SPEED JUST SLIPS. ORDERED ANOTHE LOW SPEED CLUTCH TO TRY AND RESOLVE THE PROBLEM.
Scroll up to the video description and follow the link to the other 3 videos I made on this hub. I give some trouble shooting tips in the part 2 of this video that might answer your question.
@@okbridges thanks for the reply. I have watched all three and had the darn thing apart a million times but high gear clutch keeps slipping. Too tight too loose?
@@rickgranados7844 check the high speed retarder spring. Does it have the same drag as the low speed retarder spring? are the two retarder springs coupled together correctly? Check that the high speed driver will engage by assembling just the high speed driver parts, no axle, no brake shoes in the right side of the hub. Can you make the high speed driver lock onto the hub shell? If yes, examine the other parts that interact with the high speed driver. If no, it will not lock, look at the high speed driver and hub surfaces and check for wear. Something is blocking the high speed driver from full engagement, or the parts may be worn. Check the sequencer spring. If you 'play' with the parts a bit, you will see that the high speed clutch has to engage the hub shell before it runs out of travel on the threaded driver in order to drive. If it 'bottoms out' on the shoulder, or something else, it will not engage or 'bite' the hub shell and drive.
Thanks OK, I just bought a Higgin's with the red band Bendix automatic. Being unfamiliar with them your video has helped greatly. One question though, how does the hub keep from changing gears every time the brakes are applied? Or, does it change because of the way it's set up? Thanks again.
Hi there, I recently picked up a slew of old Schwinn's that included a 1963 Traveler that uses this brake system. Most of the pins are broken and the bike really isn't worth what it would cost to buy a replacement. Is there a way you recommend I could reassemble this so that it will function for driving without the shifting/braking?
Yes, if you assemble the hub without the indexing spring it will operate in direct drive only. Braking will still occur thru the gear reduction of the planetary gear set. (Bendix called this ‘power braking’!)
Assemble just the driving parts in the hub shell and see if the driving cones will engage the hub shell. Do it for both high and low speed driving cones. Then check the drag springs.Must be enough drag that nuts can run up and down the drive screws as shown.
okbridges I did notice the index spring was shot. It had some broken tabs. I will try dropping the the gears in .I pray they grab. The new spring will be here soon. Thanks Dan
If the index spring is broken, you will loose 1st gear, and have only direct drive (2nd gear). Watch part 2 of how it works. Assemble the low speed driving screw and driver, and all the driver side bearings and check that the driving cone will engage the hub shell. If the hub shell or cone are excessively worn, the driving cone will bottom out before it can engage.
I have a single speed stretch beach cruiser that sucks on hills....can I swap out the inside of the 1 speed for a 2 speed so I can do hills...I don't want to have to build a whole new rim
Wow. Thanks for the great video. My brother and I had the Two Speed Coaster Breaks on our bikes in the early 1960's. We figured out how it all works when we had problems. The bearing cone on the main sproket wore in and the high clutch cone began slipping. I bought one at a flea market last week.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this mechanism.
Interesting and well explained
Great video. Thnx. Have a Bendix hub Schwinn Speedster, just discovered. -)
THANKS OKBRIDGES, YOU HELPED ME RESOLVE SOME OF MY 2 SPEED RED BAND PROBLEMS. STILL HAVE A HUB WHERE THE LOW SPEED CLUTCH WONT ENGAGE THE LOW SPEED JUST SLIPS. ORDERED ANOTHE LOW SPEED CLUTCH TO TRY AND RESOLVE THE PROBLEM.
Thanks. Glad the video was of some help.
That is called a Two Speed unit with Power Brakes. I had several when new in the 1960's.
This has been very helpful. My high speed clutch slips. Can you tell how to adjust or install properly?
Scroll up to the video description and follow the link to the other 3 videos I made on this hub. I give some trouble shooting tips in the part 2 of this video that might answer your question.
@@okbridges thanks for the reply. I have watched all three and had the darn thing apart a million times but high gear clutch keeps slipping. Too tight too loose?
@@rickgranados7844 check the high speed retarder spring. Does it have the same drag as the low speed retarder spring? are the two retarder springs coupled together correctly?
Check that the high speed driver will engage by assembling just the high speed driver parts, no axle, no brake shoes in the right side of the hub. Can you make the high speed driver lock onto the hub shell? If yes, examine the other parts that interact with the high speed driver. If no, it will not lock, look at the high speed driver and hub surfaces and check for wear.
Something is blocking the high speed driver from full engagement, or the parts may be worn.
Check the sequencer spring.
If you 'play' with the parts a bit, you will see that the high speed clutch has to engage the hub shell before it runs out of travel on the threaded driver in order to drive. If it 'bottoms out' on the shoulder, or something else, it will not engage or 'bite' the hub shell and drive.
Thanks OK, I just bought a Higgin's with the red band Bendix automatic. Being unfamiliar with them your video has helped greatly. One question though, how does the hub keep from changing gears every time the brakes are applied? Or, does it change because of the way it's set up? Thanks again.
The hubs shifts every time the pedals are reversed.
Hi there, I recently picked up a slew of old Schwinn's that included a 1963 Traveler that uses this brake system. Most of the pins are broken and the bike really isn't worth what it would cost to buy a replacement. Is there a way you recommend I could reassemble this so that it will function for driving without the shifting/braking?
Yes, if you assemble the hub without the indexing spring it will operate in direct drive only. Braking will still occur thru the gear reduction of the planetary gear set. (Bendix called this ‘power braking’!)
@@okbridges Awesome, thank you so much!
Your like a professor
I have one of these I'm working on , Brakes fine but will spin in forward. Not sure what to look for? Don't see any visible breakage.
Assemble just the driving parts in the hub shell and see if the driving cones will engage the hub shell. Do it for both high and low speed driving cones. Then check the drag springs.Must be enough drag that nuts can run up and down the drive screws as shown.
okbridges I did notice the index spring was shot. It had some broken tabs. I will try dropping the the gears in .I pray they grab. The new spring will be here soon. Thanks Dan
If the index spring is broken, you will loose 1st gear, and have only direct drive (2nd gear). Watch part 2 of how it works. Assemble the low speed driving screw and driver, and all the driver side bearings and check that the driving cone will engage the hub shell. If the hub shell or cone are excessively worn, the driving cone will bottom out before it can engage.
So when is somebody going to make a 3 speed automatic hub?
I have a single speed stretch beach cruiser that sucks on hills....can I swap out the inside of the 1 speed for a 2 speed so I can do hills...I don't want to have to build a whole new rim
You will have to rebuild the wheel, the internals of this hub will only fit the hub shell with 3 red bands.
okbridges thanks...damn but thanks
Mines froze up.