This is the best tutorial I have seen in my 2 years of working w resin. I bought 2 live edge 7' slabs over a yr ago and haven't felt confident enough to begin. Yes I got excited and jumped the gun. Lol. Anyway, I am sure you know exactly what your doing w the saws, seems to me you were probably raised around them. Thanks so much
Excellent video and Charcuterie Board!!! Thank you! Can you give an idea on total time from start to finish? (labor only not drying time) also what would it cost to buy a completed 12x12 bullet casing board like the one in the video? Thanks Cass!!!
I absolutely LOVE THIS! I have always wanted to learn about woodworking. If you can point me in the right direction how to begin, I would LOVE any advice you can offer.
Did you clean the shell casing from the tumbler dust. It will contaminate the epoxy. You can rinse the casings in distilled water in a bucket and dry in sun or oven on a old cooking sheet.
I have read just about all these comments, I got really tired of everyone pointing out the saw work! I think she was drilled enough on it, Move on! I don't know anyone who likes to hear the same put down 10 times or more. Does anyone feel they taught her a lesson yet? Cassandra, you are an amazing artist, thank you for this video, I have learned allot from it and your work is really beautiful. It's a real shame when people focus more on others faults or what they see as faults instead of the main focus of this video. Now I know why some UA-cam channels don't allow comments.
You definitely want to use a mold release with ANY silicone mold: There are many mold release sprays on the market. However, the one that we, and our customers, have had the most success with is the MG Chemicals 8329 Non-Silicone Epoxy Mold Release Spray. It is readily available on Amazon.com and Amazon.ca Smooth On also makes a quality line of mold release sprays that can be purchased from them directly, or via Amazon, including the "Smooth On Universal Mold Release" and "Smooth On Ease Release™ 200". This product is also available from Mann, known as the Mann Ease Release™ 200.
Just a thought, what if you mixed up a bit aloft resin and filled the empty casings. Let them cure fire then put them in . No more bubbles from them. Never worked with resin yet so keep in mind it’s just a thought.
Thank you so much for sharing a complete video, this was really helpful. My question is would you recommend a heat gun to burst bubbles or is a torch better?
Love this! Will be rewatching. I want to do this for a out door bar top. I want to “float” my marathon and other race medals. This for a ten foot top for our outdoor bar. Do you recommend anything to cover or seal for better UV protection?
Can you please tell me again why you couldn’t just do the deep pour from start to finish? Thanks. This is all new to me. And seem very confusing. I see so many people doing so many different things, I just don’t know what to do. Thanks A lot! 😊
How strong is the adhesion between the wood pieces and the solid resin areas? IOW, what are the applications for these boards? Charcuterie, cutting board, chess board, etc? Did you just sand the edges, or use a router as well?
Hi Good day I am asking please. I find when I sand the resin it comes out nice and smooth but I don't find it gets the look of the resin that was not sanded Tell me what am I doing wrong. OR the look is different! If I want the piece to have the look like original resin look can I flood coat like using a paint brush and put a coat of resin on the sanded piece OR just polish Your video is great
If you sand resin, you need to sand it from 120 grit all the way to 3000, 4000 grit, THEN use plastic buffer and polish, if you want to get it back to its "clear" state. It's an incredibly laborious process.
Hi there, may I ask what type of resin you used? I want to make an epoxy table with layers to give it a 3D look. I purchased Pro Marine brand but have not used it because all the reviews said it turns yellow. So was hoping to find something different. Was wondering if you could point me in the right direct? Thank you.
so add some color: say pearl white or metallic red and the yellow will be masked. The color change is due to the effect of UV and UV inside house is quite low.
Oh my! You can’t skip grits. They are meant to each remove the sanding marks from the previous grit. Skipping an entire step cannot remove those micro scratches. I’d like to see that up close to be convinced.
Well now that depends on the thickness of the resin. Very thick….no, just stir slowly with a stick. Thin resin you may get away with a drill but in reality, do you want to risk excess bubbles to save yourself a few minutes of stirring?
We most definitely respect that! And yes.... the trick is to just pour a super thin initial layer of epoxy, set your nerf bullet down, and then let it set. Once it's "locked in" to the base layer, continue your deeper pours.
Besides scarring it will chip and I would think epoxy is not food grade. Additionally you cannot just use any type of wood it will trap food particles and get toxic. Be careful
Tony. You want to calculate resin volume based on AVERAGE width of the void x length x depth. That will give you cubic inches. Then, its just easiest to go to google and convert your cubic inches to ... oz, litres, gallons etc.
Good tutorial. Did you wait for the flag epoxy to completely dry before pouring deep pour epoxy or was it tacky? How long did you let Deep Pour cure before you demolding? I have a mixture of epoxies that I need to use up. Can I use something like Upstart Table top to do the first coat/seal coat and then UltraClear Deep pour or something similar or do they have to be the same brand?
They do not need to be the same brand. Let the first coat cure (your seal coat). Sand a little bit then do your pour. Remember to remove all dust particles with a clean cloth and denatured alcohol
Connie. The best place to search for wood is doing a Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace search. There are always small sellers locally of live edge wood. If you cant find one, you can do a google search as there are a few US and Canadian companies that will ship.
Nice tutorial! Thank you. BTW, the brass casings are either "shells" or "casings", but NOT "shell casings", which really is stating the same thing twice. Would you call a cutting board a "cutting board board for cutting"? FYI, the cartridges that you load into a firearm for sending a bullet down range are composed of the following components: 1) the casing or shell, 2) a primer to ignite the , 3) powder to create an explosion that propels the, 4) bullet (projectile). The shell or casing holds numbers 2, 3, and 4 to complete a "cartridge". 😋
It’s not for everyone, however we have to respect the artist, clearly there is a market for these pieces whether it’s something of interest to us or not!
@@stuff_i_liked1815 She is using a fence very close to the blade and ripping when she should be using a crosscut sled with no fence. If the piece binded against the blade she could get a serious kickback from the left side of the blade and it could pull her hands right into the blade. The entire workpiece would then shoot with tremendous force, right into her belly. Very dangerous use of a table saw. Edit: literally in the blink of an eye should could lose a limb and damage internal organs. Life changing consequences for something so simple to change if she just learned how to use her tool properly.
Brilliant! Love the extra details provided
A trick I use to help with casings is to use a syringe and fill the casings and let cure before adding them into my projects
Joe, that seems to be the normal thing to do. I know the folks over at Triple L Rustic designs use that method before doing the full pour.
Hi. Love the boards you just made. Thank you for the idea of using soapy water during wet sanding. I think that’s what my issue has been.
Nice job! I'm just starting out doing this, you gave me lots of good ideas and hope to have my own resin projects soon
Great video thank you, Id love to attempt this at some point, thank you
Great video…going to try this same project soon!!
great project idea thank you and such great patients!!!
Great video and excellent tips. Thank you
This is the best tutorial I have seen in my 2 years of working w resin. I bought 2 live edge 7' slabs over a yr ago and haven't felt confident enough to begin. Yes I got excited and jumped the gun. Lol.
Anyway, I am sure you know exactly what your doing w the saws, seems to me you were probably raised around them. Thanks so much
Excellent video and Charcuterie Board!!! Thank you! Can you give an idea on total time from start to finish? (labor only not drying time) also what would it cost to buy a completed 12x12 bullet casing board like the one in the video? Thanks Cass!!!
I absolutely LOVE THIS! I have always wanted to learn about woodworking. If you can point me in the right direction how to begin, I would LOVE any advice you can offer.
Keep an eye on our channel we post some useful videos related to wood and resin work
Did you clean the shell casing from the tumbler dust. It will contaminate the epoxy. You can rinse the casings in distilled water in a bucket and dry in sun or oven on a old cooking sheet.
Awesome job. Thanks for the video. I'm working on my technique. Any advice on my videos would be helpful.
Stunning work love it 😊
Great instructional video with your calm voice. New sub here 👍Thank You
Perfect
Nice job, Tel me where do i get this stuff in South African. JHB .I WIL LIKE TO DO THIS
Have you tried any of the other Polar Shine grits?
very good instruction . I'll be reviewing this for the sanding tips.
I have read just about all these comments, I got really tired of everyone pointing out the saw work! I think she was drilled enough on it, Move on! I don't know anyone who likes to hear the same put down 10 times or more. Does anyone feel they taught her a lesson yet? Cassandra, you are an amazing artist, thank you for this video, I have learned allot from it and your work is really beautiful. It's a real shame when people focus more on others faults or what they see as faults instead of the main focus of this video. Now I know why some UA-cam channels don't allow comments.
so brave with you post. Seems like most people who know are just trying to warn others of the danger. Ill assume you are an expert.
Great video thank you
I didn't see the information about the wet sanding pads you mentioned in the video. Can you share where you got them?
Nice video! Does anyone have an idea of how long Cassandra sanded with each grit? I'm thinking 5 minutes per grit would be sufficient -- any thoughts?
could you put brand new bullets never fired before in the resin? It would be cool. Would it be safe with the heat the resin puts off.
I wish I had watched this, prior to using my surfboard mold. Part of the mold came up.
You definitely want to use a mold release with ANY silicone mold: There are many mold release sprays on the market. However, the one that we, and our customers, have had the most success with is the MG Chemicals 8329 Non-Silicone Epoxy Mold Release Spray. It is readily available on Amazon.com and Amazon.ca
Smooth On also makes a quality line of mold release sprays that can be purchased from them directly, or via Amazon, including the "Smooth On Universal Mold Release" and "Smooth On Ease Release™ 200". This product is also available from Mann, known as the Mann Ease Release™ 200.
Just a thought, what if you mixed up a bit aloft resin and filled the empty casings. Let them cure fire then put them in . No more bubbles from them. Never worked with resin yet so keep in mind it’s just a thought.
What do you fill the tiny holes after all is done that’s food safe? I love this video!!
Probably need to put a clean pad underneath that while you're sanding. The vibration will just hammer the underside.
10-4
Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
love this video!
Thank you so much for sharing a complete video, this was really helpful.
My question is would you recommend a heat gun to burst bubbles or is a torch better?
I am honestly not sure either matters. A lot of people like the heat gun because its safe to use inside (no gas / fumes) etc.
looks awesome! Did you need to add a mold release with the silicone molds?
Yes, you always need a proper mold release with silicone molds -> craftedelements.com/moldrelease
Love the video! You need to get a sanding pad so your work is not vibrating all over the place.
Love this! Will be rewatching. I want to do this for a out door bar top. I want to “float” my marathon and other race medals. This for a ten foot top for our outdoor bar.
Do you recommend anything to cover or seal for better UV protection?
You can use a UV rated epoxy resin, that would likely be the best option.
Thank you for an awesome video.
I was wondering where you got your molds
craftedelements.com
Can you please tell me again why you couldn’t just do the deep pour from start to finish? Thanks. This is all new to me. And seem very confusing. I see so many people doing so many different things, I just don’t know what to do. Thanks A lot! 😊
Love this! Ty for the tutorial!
You are most welcome
I’d love to get a desk blotter with .50 caliber casings. 3x3 foot square. Be great.
That wood (get it) be a thick blotter
Where did you get the sanding disks?
So, are you using any wet sanding discs when you are doing wet sanding?
How strong is the adhesion between the wood pieces and the solid resin areas? IOW, what are the applications for these boards? Charcuterie, cutting board, chess board, etc? Did you just sand the edges, or use a router as well?
Incredibly strong, as long as the wood is prepped correctly (bark removed, sanded etc) the wood will break before the bond with the resin.
Polar shine is food safe?
Hi Good day I am asking please. I find when I sand the resin it comes out nice and smooth but I don't find it gets the look of the resin that was not sanded Tell me what am I doing wrong. OR the look is different! If I want the piece to have the look like original resin look can I flood coat like using a paint brush and put a coat of resin on the sanded piece OR just polish Your video is great
If you sand resin, you need to sand it from 120 grit all the way to 3000, 4000 grit, THEN use plastic buffer and polish, if you want to get it back to its "clear" state. It's an incredibly laborious process.
Holy crap, no one ever use a table saw like this. Both the cross cut and pushing against the blade instead of the rip fence is extremely dangerous.
the way she used the table saw was terrifying
How long it took? I understand epoxy is quite soft and if you are not using them as decorations, they will be frosted after 2-3 days of active use
You really don’t want to cut on the epoxy, this would be more of a serving board not cutting board
Such a great explanation video!
Glad it was helpful!
Ya did a great job far better than many I’ve seen
Hi there, may I ask what type of resin you used? I want to make an epoxy table with layers to give it a 3D look. I purchased Pro Marine brand but have not used it because all the reviews said it turns yellow. So was hoping to find something different. Was wondering if you could point me in the right direct? Thank you.
We highly recommend Total Boat epoxy, as well as Alumilite. We work with both of those product lines.
so add some color: say pearl white or metallic red and the yellow will be masked. The color change is due to the effect of UV and UV inside house is quite low.
Oh my! You can’t skip grits. They are meant to each remove the sanding marks from the previous grit. Skipping an entire step cannot remove those micro scratches. I’d like to see that up close to be convinced.
Just watched your video, Great tutorial, Could you use a drill to stir the resin or would it create to many bubbles?
You can, and a lot people do, you just need to make sure you dont introduce excessive bubbles. Or de-gas before use.
Well now that depends on the thickness of the resin. Very thick….no, just stir slowly with a stick. Thin resin you may get away with a drill but in reality, do you want to risk excess bubbles to save yourself a few minutes of stirring?
I don't own any guns so don't have access to casings. Perhaps I could do a nerf one. Any tips on stopping them from floating to the top of the resin?
We most definitely respect that! And yes.... the trick is to just pour a super thin initial layer of epoxy, set your nerf bullet down, and then let it set. Once it's "locked in" to the base layer, continue your deeper pours.
@@CraftedElements Thanks!!!
That was brilliant! Do you turn off your vac when wet sanding w/ your mirka?
🔥 polish
Nice
Thanks
I would sand up to at least 800 grit then start wet sanding with wet sanding type papers to about 3000 grit
Good advice and would likely come out crystal clear.
Can epoxy be used as a cutting board too or would it scar too easy?
It would scar with a knife, its more intended to be used as a serving board.
Besides scarring it will chip and I would think epoxy is not food grade. Additionally you cannot just use any type of wood it will trap food particles and get toxic. Be careful
Where do you get the mold from?
Shop Our Molds @ CraftedElements.com
how did you calculate how much resin to use?
Tony. You want to calculate resin volume based on AVERAGE width of the void x length x depth. That will give you cubic inches. Then, its just easiest to go to google and convert your cubic inches to ... oz, litres, gallons etc.
@@CraftedElements thank you
Good tutorial. Did you wait for the flag epoxy to completely dry before pouring deep pour epoxy or was it tacky? How long did you let Deep Pour cure before you demolding? I have a mixture of epoxies that I need to use up. Can I use something like Upstart Table top to do the first coat/seal coat and then UltraClear Deep pour or something similar or do they have to be the same brand?
They do not need to be the same brand. Let the first coat cure (your seal coat). Sand a little bit then do your pour. Remember to remove all dust particles with a clean cloth and denatured alcohol
Where did you find the wood?
Connie. The best place to search for wood is doing a Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace search. There are always small sellers locally of live edge wood. If you cant find one, you can do a google search as there are a few US and Canadian companies that will ship.
Super super 😅😅😅
Did u state no cutting on resin boards just searving 😊
Great instructions, but seriously, shell casings? I thought I was going to be seashells. 🙄😹😹🙄
The casings had air in them
NEVER ever use a rip fence when crosscutting. Dangerous
No, never use a rip fence when crosscutting with a miter gauge, that is the dangerous thing
Trim edge on table saw, please KEEP the body of the work next to the fence ...
10-4
Nice tutorial! Thank you. BTW, the brass casings are either "shells" or "casings", but NOT "shell casings", which really is stating the same thing twice. Would you call a cutting board a "cutting board board for cutting"? FYI, the cartridges that you load into a firearm for sending a bullet down range are composed of the following components: 1) the casing or shell, 2) a primer to ignite the , 3) powder to create an explosion that propels the, 4) bullet (projectile). The shell or casing holds numbers 2, 3, and 4 to complete a "cartridge". 😋
I sure would want something different than shells embedded.
It’s not for everyone, however we have to respect the artist, clearly there is a market for these pieces whether it’s something of interest to us or not!
@@CraftedElements How about real shells - from the sea? Something of nature that represents life.
Most people would prefer not to have blank cartridges in a piece
Для тира или военных очень актуально....
😊😊😊
Wet sand at 1000 -3000 you will thank me later
I think that's what the polish is
Wet sanding before polishing would be beneficial, but its really the plastic polish and buffing that brings out the gloss.
I know this video is 2 yrs old. But, I pray you have learned NOT to cut like that on your table saw. Very dangerous. Otherwise, excellent video.
Scary bro. Im sure she wouldnt keep a accident in a video but i swear im on pins and needles i cant even watch parts.
Please !!!! Get some training on the table saw. You are doing several things wrong on the saw and you are going to get hurt if you continue this way.
Can u list the things? I’m new to all of this too so would love to avoid getting hurt lol.
Totally agree, I had to pick my jaw up! Scarey
@@stuff_i_liked1815 She is using a fence very close to the blade and ripping when she should be using a crosscut sled with no fence. If the piece binded against the blade she could get a serious kickback from the left side of the blade and it could pull her hands right into the blade. The entire workpiece would then shoot with tremendous force, right into her belly. Very dangerous use of a table saw. Edit: literally in the blink of an eye should could lose a limb and damage internal organs. Life changing consequences for something so simple to change if she just learned how to use her tool properly.
I went to comments to say same. Beautiful work.
Тебе усы под нос , и ты....мужик💪🤭
Whats up! So turned off hate that
Love the content but its like watching a horror movie to me. Im just waiting for that blade to grab you i cant watch im sorry just please he careful.
dangerous table saw use
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