Love you guys 😃👍 Btw... if your original sending unit only has one wire, then you need to touch the mounting to a ground source like the frame or something touching the frame... Great job guys ...
I was thinking the same thing... There may also be a gauge issue, but the cause of it not reading in THIS case was that the sending unit had no ground.
Of course! That makes total sense. It also makes sense why Holley had us run a ground all the way from the battery to the back when we were wiring. They told us that one was for the sending unit in the tank, so I think that it should be working now. Thank you for that info!!
FWIW... When there are two, or more wires to be spliced, stagger the connectors if there is room...that keeps from being a big bundle to cover with the wire wrap. Good vid.
Ok, something is up with YT and it won't let me edit the comment. Nice work on the hard lines. In 40+ years of turning wrenches, I've never seen the zip tie trick when matching new lines to old. Learn something new every day!
Tip. When you cut two or More wires to sold with extensiones, don't cut the wire in the same long placer. Cut the first wire, the next 1 inch more long, the 2 nd 2 More inch, etc. These method have 2'adventage, avoid the posibilities of a shortcircuits, and a Ball of cables AND unions in a same placer. Cheers
FYI when working on a gas tank, to prevent accidents, put 1/2 pound of dry ice in and wait an hour to open the tank or do electrical or cutting work on it.... Dry ice is CO2 and nothing can ignite when the tank is full of CO2.....
A few things with today's video. 1. At the beginning you said you got trans fluid on you already. If there is trans fluid up near the fuel tank you have a leak somewhere. 2. The biggest thing I noticed in this video was you and your dad where working in very cramped confines. When working under a car make life easier for yourself, jack up the car, and support it on jack stands. It will give you 6 or more inches of room so you can move around easier. 3. The purpose of a rubber grommet is to provide a seal that doesn't allow leaks. When you cut a grommet you provide a place for it to leak. You can get grommets that already have holes in them so you don't have to cut them. I suggest you put some sealant on the grommet you cut just so the grommet can do what it is supposed to do. 4. Others have already mentioned the earth/grounding of the fuel sender unit making the gauge not work when you tested it. What others haven't mentioned is if you earth the sender wire the gauge should move which is another diagnostic test you can use to see if the gauge itself is working or not. 5. Great job bending and flaring the hard line, it's not an easy job. The bundy ties at each bend to hold it is an excellent idea, do you mind of your loyal followers use it?
I know this is way too late, but, I saw you using silicone to hold the o-ring in place during reassembly. Your better to use Vaseline. Silicone Cas degrade in gas and let pieces go into your tank which can clog things, very little chance you'll have any issues with your set up but it's always best to use best practices. Plus the Vaseline lubricates the lock ring to makes it easier to reassemble.
That's a great point and tip. Thanks! We actually have plans in the future for a trunk restoration episode and we'll be replacing the tank, so we'll be sure to use that tip for next time. Thanks again!!
The fuel pump kit we used is separate from the EFI (links are in the video description). The fuel pump we used was really cool because it has a special valve that made it so that we didn't have to install a return fuel line.
Did you put hardened valve seats in the cylinder head since these engines ran on leaded fuel originally? You might have pinging issues if you did not. Just something to think about. I ran into that on my old 1968 Galaxie. I had to add lead substitute when I filled up. This EFI setup might not like lead additive. edit: I just saw the video where y'all picked up the head at the machine shop. You are good to go. Good work. That EFI setup looks cool.
I’m probably wrong, but at 10:48 is that electrical wiring bundled in a loom with fuel line? It’s probably not, but just in case, that’s a very bad idea…
Yes sir, that collar comes with the kit. But, we ended up having some exhaust leaks around that clamp on collar, so we'd probably recommend getting a bung welded in. Here's our video where we found/fixed those exhaust leaks: ua-cam.com/video/GIYyYhqAd80/v-deo.html
@@ElliesGarage thank you so much for the information really enjoy your videos of you and your dad building your car I've got a 63 falcon convertible I just finished it was a part for 20 years I was a mechanic for 35 years still enjoy tankering on it thinking about this EFI system
That car would have had a mechanical pump operated by the engine, stock. That pump would generally have made 12-15 psi fuel pressure. The Holley Snipers are using fuel injectors and generally need 60 psi.
It's a shame you're quitting on the carb. system. Part of owning an old car is to diagnose the little problems; that's how we learn. I'm 63 and still learning. Keeps it interesting. I have no problems with my '65 Falcon with the 1100 Autolite - 200 ci engine.
Love you guys 😃👍
Btw... if your original sending unit only has one wire, then you need to touch the mounting to a ground source like the frame or something touching the frame...
Great job guys ...
I was thinking the same thing... There may also be a gauge issue, but the cause of it not reading in THIS case was that the sending unit had no ground.
Of course! That makes total sense. It also makes sense why Holley had us run a ground all the way from the battery to the back when we were wiring. They told us that one was for the sending unit in the tank, so I think that it should be working now. Thank you for that info!!
Didn't watch it but love what your doing.
Baby girl, you guys put a smile on my face....❤ Grandpa Tom
Thank you!!
FWIW... When there are two, or more wires to be spliced, stagger the connectors if there is room...that keeps from being a big bundle to cover with the wire wrap. Good vid.
That's a great tip! I'll be sure to do that next time. Thank you!!
So much fun watching you and your dad enjoying wrenching and sharing your happiness!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ok, something is up with YT and it won't let me edit the comment. Nice work on the hard lines. In 40+ years of turning wrenches, I've never seen the zip tie trick when matching new lines to old. Learn something new every day!
Tip. When you cut two or More wires to sold with extensiones, don't cut the wire in the same long placer. Cut the first wire, the next 1 inch more long, the 2 nd 2 More inch, etc. These method have 2'adventage, avoid the posibilities of a shortcircuits, and a Ball of cables AND unions in a same placer. Cheers
Love to see Daughter and Dad (assumed) learning together... The bonding is there...
Thanks so much! Yep, that's me and my Dad
For anyone watching next time make sure your gauge is grounded to complete the sending unit circuit.
You guys are a good team. I had a hard time trying to put the 12-305 in under the car, so I pulled the tank to install it.
Thanks for creating these videos! Inspires me to work on my car!
You can do it!
FUEL INJECTION in an old Falcon with a straight six.... AWESOME!!! 😎👍👍
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Thanks! We're excited!!
That hammer has some character o
FYI when working on a gas tank, to prevent accidents, put 1/2 pound of dry ice in and wait an hour to open the tank or do electrical or cutting work on it.... Dry ice is CO2 and nothing can ignite when the tank is full of CO2.....
That. Is. BRILLIANT! Thanks for the great tip!
A few things with today's video.
1. At the beginning you said you got trans fluid on you already. If there is trans fluid up near the fuel tank you have a leak somewhere.
2. The biggest thing I noticed in this video was you and your dad where working in very cramped confines. When working under a car make life easier for yourself, jack up the car, and support it on jack stands. It will give you 6 or more inches of room so you can move around easier.
3. The purpose of a rubber grommet is to provide a seal that doesn't allow leaks. When you cut a grommet you provide a place for it to leak. You can get grommets that already have holes in them so you don't have to cut them. I suggest you put some sealant on the grommet you cut just so the grommet can do what it is supposed to do.
4. Others have already mentioned the earth/grounding of the fuel sender unit making the gauge not work when you tested it. What others haven't mentioned is if you earth the sender wire the gauge should move which is another diagnostic test you can use to see if the gauge itself is working or not.
5. Great job bending and flaring the hard line, it's not an easy job. The bundy ties at each bend to hold it is an excellent idea, do you mind of your loyal followers use it?
Nice work with the EFI!
Super cool. Efi will make Carl so much better to drive.
Great video always fun to watch you build your car love the carb upgrade!!
Thanks so much!!
That's awesome I'll be putting in efi on my C3 corvette. Just have to find time and oh and warmth I don't work when it's cold outside lol
Stay warm and good luck!!
Nice job on this video. I am looking at the 4 barrel system for my Galaxie and I dont want to run a return line.
Great work. Have been thinking about doing this on my 67 Mustang. My carb just started leaking so it might be time.
Great job.....
Thank you!!
I know this is way too late, but, I saw you using silicone to hold the o-ring in place during reassembly. Your better to use Vaseline. Silicone Cas degrade in gas and let pieces go into your tank which can clog things, very little chance you'll have any issues with your set up but it's always best to use best practices. Plus the Vaseline lubricates the lock ring to makes it easier to reassemble.
That's a great point and tip. Thanks! We actually have plans in the future for a trunk restoration episode and we'll be replacing the tank, so we'll be sure to use that tip for next time. Thanks again!!
1 DRENCH ON THE ROCKS!!!
Ok ....you made me follow... 2 cute ..and great job
Thanks so much for coming along on the journey!!
🤜🏾💥🤛🏽💯
Love it very good Job and wait on next Video than i Hope it will works ❤️❤️👍❤️❤️
I hope so too!
Hi did the efi fuel pump come with the wiring? Or did you have to purchase separate
The fuel pump kit we used is separate from the EFI (links are in the video description). The fuel pump we used was really cool because it has a special valve that made it so that we didn't have to install a return fuel line.
Did you put hardened valve seats in the cylinder head since these engines ran on leaded fuel originally? You might have pinging issues if you did not. Just something to think about. I ran into that on my old 1968 Galaxie. I had to add lead substitute when I filled up. This EFI setup might not like lead additive.
edit: I just saw the video where y'all picked up the head at the machine shop. You are good to go. Good work. That EFI setup looks cool.
Just get the lead additive, I had a 61 Comet for 20 years and never had an issue
We sure did. It cost extra, but the machine shop said it would be worth it. Glad I did it. Thank you for the encouragement!
I’m probably wrong, but at 10:48 is that electrical wiring bundled in a loom with fuel line? It’s probably not, but just in case, that’s a very bad idea…
Looks like you didn't have the sending unit wired up when you were testing the float.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hows the drivability compared to the one barrel?
The oxygen sensor adapter you put on your exhaust pipe does that come with the sniper kit?
if not do you have a part number?
Yes sir, that collar comes with the kit. But, we ended up having some exhaust leaks around that clamp on collar, so we'd probably recommend getting a bung welded in. Here's our video where we found/fixed those exhaust leaks: ua-cam.com/video/GIYyYhqAd80/v-deo.html
@@ElliesGarage thank you so much for the information really enjoy your videos of you and your dad building your car I've got a 63 falcon convertible I just finished it was a part for 20 years I was a mechanic for 35 years still enjoy tankering on it thinking about this EFI system
so what's the difference between a stock pump and a Holley one?
That car would have had a mechanical pump operated by the engine, stock. That pump would generally have made 12-15 psi fuel pressure. The Holley Snipers are using fuel injectors and generally need 60 psi.
Hi what did you use for your return line?
The fuel pump unit has a regulator valve built-in so you don't have to use a return line
What did that fuel tank originally come out of
That is actually the original tank for our Falcon, as far as I know.
The original tank does not have the filler neck inside the trunk, it would be either on the rrar quarter panel or behind the liecence plate
@@James-xo4uv That was a modification the previous owner did before we bought it.
How are you guys liking the Capri tools?
Loving them! My favorites so far are my wrenches to turn rounded off bolts and my impact wrench.
@@ElliesGarage awesome, thank you!! If you don't mind, what camera do you use? My setup is terrible for my videos.
It's a shame you're quitting on the carb. system. Part of owning an old car is to diagnose the little problems; that's how we learn. I'm 63 and still learning. Keeps it interesting. I have no problems with my '65 Falcon with the 1100 Autolite - 200 ci engine.
It’s not a shame. Like you, she will also be learning by diagnosing and dialing in the EFI system.
@@thewhiteelephant I agree, she wants a reliable system, and I want this in my 65 Mustang.