As much as I like the idea of bolt on outriggers, there is no way I'd be using rivnuts in the old chassis like that. I'd think welding in some crush tubes and long bolts through the chassis would be a better way of doing it.
Nice idea that. I’ve had to replace my front outriggers (welded them on) and fabricated new front floors (similar to your other video) and this could have been a good solution. I have also fitted some of the front outrigger mud protectors from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 to (hopefully) protect the new ones from road salt, mud etc being flicked up from the front tyres. Fingers crossed they will work.🤞🏻
Good man. Modifying "Land Rovers production line efficiency methods" is what I do too. A box section chassis is the worst possible idea for a chassis as they rust like hell, so making it more modular where possible makes for an easier life down the road. I modified my tub floor and cross members with rivnuts so I can whip them out in 10 minutes if needs be. LR won't do that because accountants design vehicles, not engineers. Purists can struggle all they want, I'm not up for that.
I like your workmanship so please don’t think this is a dig at that but I’m not sure this would be acceptable from a MOT point of view! I know you said it’s passed in another comment but did you make the inspector aware of the work? Painted up and checking the chassis from inside the ramp he would have only seen some solid outriggers and not the bolts! Also, if you were doing any serious off roading I think these outriggers would be ripped off from the rivnuts before they took any serious damage.. I’ve watched a few of your videos now including the rear crossmember and you do a tidy job…
Thank you for the comment. The tester has the previous failure sheet and gave it all a good look over. I am thinking of making 2 stainless strips out of 6mm x 25 to clamp the outrigger sides to the chassis instead of washers. Some off roaders don't drive on main roads so you can pretty much do what you like to your landy.
NO NO NO NO NO. YER DOIN IT ALL WRONG! 1. Your modifying the chassis. DVLA should be informed and you’d need an independent inspection not an MOT If you’re involved in an accident this sort of stuff could be used to absolutely hang you out to dry. Insurance company would wash their hands, laughing. 2. You might get away with 1 if you welded tube between both sides of the chassis rail and used long high tensile bolts ( like a series rover has the bulkhead support/ steering box support held on with three long 1/2” af bolts on each side. 3 Rivnuts? You having a f&ckin laugh? The chassis is old , the outriggers are fu cked, so there’s corrosion behind them on the chassis rail as a matter of course; the only way to do it properly is cut away the corrosion, weld in new metal, examining the surrounding area as well, which will inevitably be thinner than you thought. And that’s the metal you’ll be inserting the rivnuts into. I’ve seen rovers with roll cages bolted solely to the tub. This is on a par with that.
I hear what your saying but the rest is bolted on and the top section is only thin metal anyway so tell me why you need to have welded strength for what is just a support bracket not a rollbar!
@@adamlacey3596 I have told you. How about at you next MoT you point out to the tester that this outrigger is held on by rivnuts rather than being welded in place See what he thinks.
Apart from changing the design of a solid steel box section chassis. Rivnuts are aluminium, with little tensile strength. Why not just weld them on ? It would be proper, much much stronger, and faster. It would also be as factory standard. Rivenuts are not a structural join for 3mm steel sections. If it was welded originally, the repair must be the same. Why not jack the truck up on your repair, and see how safe you feel crawling under it. Becauseca proper repair would take the weight of your truck easily. It's just scarry, what you've done. IMHO. Not to mention the galvanic corrosion between different metal, aluminium and steel. Which every landy owner knows too well. Please run welds over the joins and make it strong again.
Thanks for your videos and inspiration.
The laid back approach makes a daunting task easier for us all 👍
As much as I like the idea of bolt on outriggers, there is no way I'd be using rivnuts in the old chassis like that. I'd think welding in some crush tubes and long bolts through the chassis would be a better way of doing it.
Love your defender videos. Hitting all the same jobs I'm having to do on an 89 Defender 90
Nice idea that. I’ve had to replace my front outriggers (welded them on) and fabricated new front floors (similar to your other video) and this could have been a good solution. I have also fitted some of the front outrigger mud protectors from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 to (hopefully) protect the new ones from road salt, mud etc being flicked up from the front tyres. Fingers crossed they will work.🤞🏻
Fantastic video. Thank you!
Great Job 👍
Hello my dear friend,be careful always im fully watch here in the phillippines thank you for the great sharing..
Good man. Modifying "Land Rovers production line efficiency methods" is what I do too. A box section chassis is the worst possible idea for a chassis as they rust like hell, so making it more modular where possible makes for an easier life down the road. I modified my tub floor and cross members with rivnuts so I can whip them out in 10 minutes if needs be. LR won't do that because accountants design vehicles, not engineers.
Purists can struggle all they want, I'm not up for that.
Hi great video. Do you happen to have a link to the outriggers and brackets used? Thanks
out riggers are www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295096090346 and brackets are www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115283106688 hope that helps
I thought they had to be welded on.
I like your workmanship so please don’t think this is a dig at that but I’m not sure this would be acceptable from a MOT point of view! I know you said it’s passed in another comment but did you make the inspector aware of the work? Painted up and checking the chassis from inside the ramp he would have only seen some solid outriggers and not the bolts!
Also, if you were doing any serious off roading I think these outriggers would be ripped off from the rivnuts before they took any serious damage..
I’ve watched a few of your videos now including the rear crossmember and you do a tidy job…
Thank you for the comment. The tester has the previous failure sheet and gave it all a good look over. I am thinking of making 2 stainless strips out of 6mm x 25 to clamp the outrigger sides to the chassis instead of washers. Some off roaders don't drive on main roads so you can pretty much do what you like to your landy.
Very nice
hi mate would that be accepted for an mot
Larry has since passed his MOT
NO NO NO NO NO. YER DOIN IT ALL WRONG!
1. Your modifying the chassis. DVLA should be informed and you’d need an independent inspection not an MOT If you’re involved in an accident this sort of stuff could be used to absolutely hang you out to dry. Insurance company would wash their hands, laughing.
2. You might get away with 1 if you welded tube between both sides of the chassis rail and used long high tensile bolts ( like a series rover has the bulkhead support/ steering box support held on with three long 1/2” af bolts on each side.
3 Rivnuts? You having a f&ckin laugh? The chassis is old , the outriggers are fu cked, so there’s corrosion behind them on the chassis rail as a matter of course; the only way to do it properly is cut away the corrosion, weld in new metal, examining the surrounding area as well, which will inevitably be thinner than you thought. And that’s the metal you’ll be inserting the rivnuts into.
I’ve seen rovers with roll cages bolted solely to the tub. This is on a par with that.
I hear what your saying but the rest is bolted on and the top section is only thin metal anyway so tell me why you need to have welded strength for what is just a support bracket not a rollbar!
@@adamlacey3596 I have told you. How about at you next MoT you point out to the tester that this outrigger is held on by rivnuts rather than being welded in place
See what he thinks.
sums it up well .... once you see no guard on the grinder and no gloves , you just know what the rest of it will be like ,,,, this didnt disappoint.
Why not just use tonnes of filler to deceive the MOT tester? A lot cheaper and easier.
Apart from changing the design of a solid steel box section chassis.
Rivnuts are aluminium, with little tensile strength.
Why not just weld them on ?
It would be proper, much much stronger, and faster. It would also be as factory standard.
Rivenuts are not a structural join for 3mm steel sections.
If it was welded originally, the repair must be the same.
Why not jack the truck up on your repair, and see how safe you feel crawling under it. Becauseca proper repair would take the weight of your truck easily.
It's just scarry, what you've done. IMHO. Not to mention the galvanic corrosion between different metal, aluminium and steel. Which every landy owner knows too well.
Please run welds over the joins and make it strong again.
I knew I liked him from the moment I seen he uses Makita.
you fucked that up and rivnuts will not pass an MOT
Is that drill a Metabo?
Cordless Right Angle Drill Attachment Adapter 90 Degree 0.8-10mm G1R8 from ebay
I wouldn't weld it either.