AT LAST!!!!! After some very frustrating errors and repairs and the assistance of some very smart people at a club I joined I was able to get one of the controllers working. I tried it on a Dock Authority Shunter and it crawled, just like you said it would.Many thanks for all your encouragement! Charlie
Yet again a nice straightforward conversion on how to increase the"power" output especially when running older locos "sucking" more "juice" "double headed" without the "overload" cut out activating
Can I just say, what a well thought-out and presented video this is. It's hard judge your target audience - and this video gets the balance exactly right. Neither too technical for beginners, nor oversimplified to patronise those of a technical background. Our hobby is one of the best for learning such a wide variety of skills and youngsters need the encouragement to have a go. There are some very good switched mode PSUs available these days, and one of these (appropriately rated) would make an ideal replacement. The fact that the recitifier bridge within the controller cleverly polarises the DC input means that the input socket may be retained - but with obvious allowances for current. That said, hard-wiring may still be the best solution in this case. G
This is an excellent video, explains why the Hornby controller cuts out when I had my old Wrenn City of London trying to run off of it. I ended up using the much older but much beefier Tri-ang / Lines Bros Ltd controller I picked up off of eBay. Nothing like having a controller that sounds like it might kill you if you touch it! :) The Bachmann 36-560 controller is pretty decent if you are looking for a cheap DC controller.
The R921 is the same apart from it has the 240v step down transformer inside. I have doctored two R921s and they work great (thanks John!). The bonus is,the R921 was never made in China so you are guaranteed to get the earlier circuit which you can do this mod to :) Cheers
Hi John, great video again. I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned but when desoldering, if you use the solder pump and then go back over with desoldering wick you'll get a clean lift with no possibility of damaging the track. It makes fitting new components a breeze too.
Hi Colin & thanks for the useful comment. Yes, I did forget to mention a "desoldering wick". I do use them now & then so thanks again for bringing this point to my viewers. All the best, John
Wow! Another great video tutorial. Now I've got to find me a Hornby R965 controller made before 1995, that I can modify. I already have a nice 5 amp battery charger. Guess I'll look inside of my current controller and see if I can modify it before my searching for a Hornby R965. Thank again.
hi john your videos are awesome and from your informative tutalige i did this upgrade on the R.921 controller with the in built transformer and was easy peasy while using this video as a guide ive only converted one so far but it works a treat still waiting to see your ringfield motor service video hope your keeping well keep up the tutorial videos your a legend thanks calvin
646klein Hi Calvin....big thanks for your comments & interest on my channel. Also glad you did the R921 controller mod OK....well done! I fully intend to do more 'how-to' vids as soon as I can but sorry to say things are not too good with my 89 year old mum these days....i'll get there when I can buddy? All the very best, John.
646klein hi john i have a question for you, my psu gives out 13.70v which goes to the R.921 but the controller is only outputs 11.39v does this sound correct or is there something i can do to improve the out put?
646klein Hi buddy sorry for the delay. OK.....the voltage coming out of the controller is 'pulsed DC'.....this being the case I think your meter is telling you porky's, as it is harder for a meter to be acurate on a pulsed voltage. If your meter has 'min-max hold' you should be able to get the acurate voltage with that. Hope this helps? Kind regards, John.
Hello again Conor. The massive space in your controller is where the power transformer used to be originally....before they moved the transformer into the wall plug. Hope that helped? Kind regards, John.
Hi John - I just checked my track again closely and I have found the problem - some corrosion on the inside edges of one section of track - I have just cleaned the wheels of a loco and run it for 15 mins full speed, avoiding the suspect bit of track and (virtually) no sparking, no pitting of wheels, no problems on the remainder of my layout. Loco is now crawling over points and I haven't had to clean the wheels. Happy days :) Thanks again John. Dave.
Hi John. Don't doubt your credibility - before posting I did look up your website (and forwarded it to my two guitarist sons). Think I was more concerned about less competent people following your advice without being aware of the issues. But I still wouldn't leave these running unattended! (Interestingly, I found I have one of these in my loft...future project maybe?) Peter
Yes your input has helped me a lot, as I'm quite new to this, plus I can see how much better your layout runs than mine so this has motivated me to do something. I am now replacing several steel track sections with nickel silver, and reducing the inclines (1/22 doesn't work), I have now modified 2 of these controllers with the BD911 transistor + heatsink so should have really good running soon! I can't wait :-) Rgds. Dave.
hi john splendid video mate! the mod will definately be worth it to me as i have said before i run quite a few old triang loco's! however i will have to start sourcing that type of controller on ebay. and listening to your comments will have to get the right one! most ebayers only show a small pic so it could be a bit hit and miss to find the correct controller! however i will give it a bash! keep up the good work looking forward to more!!
Hi Charlie....well at last eh! Glad you got everything sorted at last & its good you had some help too. All's-well-that-ends-well as they say! Best regards, John.
Hi again Dave. Yes....the DC voltage is higher than the AC input but I think your 2 meters are reading what is known as residule voltage. If you put a load across this voltage [eg. put a loco on the line] then I think your meters will give you a different result! Also...as you are running the older locos on the modern track....the sleeper-grips can raise the wheels so very slightly that this causes exessive sparking! Anyway....you've sussed the problem now! Best regards, John.
Hi I only recently found your videos I’m seventy plus and dug out my daughters old hornby trains for our granddaughters I tried running them on modern controllers and found the performance poor so after pulling out what’s left of my hair I opted to upgrade with heat sinks and BD911 kit as seen in your utube channel,having read all the bits about overheating I’m worried now about leaving the kids playing with them should I fit thermal cut outs ? And where do I fit a fuse to is it in the battery charger or the controller. Thanks Jim
Thanks buddy. I think it looks easy because I've been soldering all my life. It's not that hard to do really. I do intend to do a video on soldering as I have been asked about this many-a-time! There is a bit of an art being able to solder correctly. Cheers, John.
Hey David thanks for that info & yes...you are correct. I have at least one of the R921's [which I have ripped-out the transformer] & again yes...these will almost certainly have the older circuit! Anybody reading this should take your advise & go for the R921's if they can find them! Glad the mod's worked well for you too. Cheers, John.
I have three controllers, one a standard Hornby power brick which is awful, I also bought an excellent used Triang 4.5 from Triangman but last week I scored a NOS virgin Triang 4.5 in its original box which came with a job lot of NOS System 6 track and points, point switches and motors and a superb busbar with 40 spring loaded connections made by Lucas... The 4.5's have a very good Aux output so now I can use the power brick for a shunting section and the 4.5's will run two main circuits for trains and can spread the lighting load over two controllers rather than one. I recently bought 3000 leds on ready made strips from Aliexpress 300 on each roll and built in resistors so just simple to solder on a pair of leads for coach lighting, station and signal lighting, paid just over a tenner for 3000 leds which is awesome :D I have earmarked some of the LED's for upgrading the old Lucas bulbs in my Reliant Robin's instruments and upgrading the interior lights with warm white for the clocks and cold white for the interior lamps :)
Hi again buddy.....sorry if I missed the question about the holes to help dissipate the heat...not really sure if I ever received it? OK, no big deal though...I just cut holes about 1" diameter in the top & bottom to allow for air flow. I also fitted 2 small fans on the pair of controlers that run my lighting as they got a little extra warm with the lighting being constant! Hope this helps? Regards, John.
Another excellent viral by John, of transforming an old power controller unit and boosting the pulling power and traction for more locomotives using a single or multiple controller units for your layout. A great aide and conversion for the beginner to the more advanced modeller to know.
Can a similar mod be do to the Hornby HM2000 and the extra Left and Right extension units. Also I take it you used 2.5 multi-core cable from the electrical house hold double PVC cable (L+ E~ N- cable PVC encased Grey flat or White round PVC cable for your Power Bus.
Hi again buddy....I have just left a comment with my views on the HM2000. It can be improved but the transformer is so small I wouldn't recommend changing things! I have used proper tinned copper wire for the buss bar(s). All the best, John.
Excellent video my son has been watching them all he is train daft I have checked his controller and it's the china one looking forward to your video on modding the china made one, keep up the good work.
Nice mod john ,that looks like the trany i got with my hornby start set in 1976, but hornby would never want it to power any more then two trains as then people would up grade to the bigger controler like i did , which my perents forked out for....
That's good news Dave. Ummm, corrosion on the track is a very rare condition but I'm glad you found it....well done! I hope my input helped a little? Cheers, John.
Kids have computers and kids watching this will have train sets. Basically he's encouraging kits to drastically modify electronics they have in their own private spaces where nobody will know they're faffing with it.
Absolutely buddy yes you can....this is a stableised supply which can help but...as there is a small voltage drop through the controller...you are actually better-off starting with about 15 volts DC which most battery chargers will be however, try it & see how it all goes? Best, John.
The first version of the original controller back in the 80s used to have the transformer inside the controller itself and naturally this taken up lots of room. Personally I favoured the original because it was more robust with no stupid plug in the rear of the unit, just a simple wall plug. Cosmetically the original unit was exactly the same but had a yellow knob. However on a note you probably can't do the modification in the video above to it.
I think John will tell you that it is just a wire link. Using 5A fuse wire wouldn't work for several reasons: the thermal cutout is almost certainly NOT carrying the output current (probably in series with the transistor base?), and the failure current of 5A fuse wire is actually somewhat higher than 5A; besides, I'm not sure you can solder fuse wire! Any fuse needs to be inline with the input or output in order to 'see' the current, and one in the charger/supply output would do the job.
Thanks for your questions Roy. Yes I do know how the wire bidirection LED's. There are videos on youtube [not mine] on how to do this. Also, you can beef-up the later Chinese controllers but only about 60% & they wont cut-out which is a big bonus. I will do a video on this when I have time. Cheers, John.
Those are the same reasons I prefer the older ones. Usually it get's bad without you noticing and then it just shorts out and so you need to buy a new transformer (might be part of Hornby's idea) Other than you suggest I don't see any problems with the older unit. I've always used the old Hornby R900 and these older units with no complaints and can't say I've ever been shocked either.
Yes buddy, the car battery charger takes the place of the wall plug, it has far more power available than the original transformer plug! I think this is pretty clear & explained well in the vid. You must do the other mods in the vid though for any benefit. Cheers, John.
Hi Fred...thanks for your comment. I do take you point but I wanted to stay away from the thermal thing! I have checked this mod with a full short for 15 minutes & yes...the BD911 does get hot (obviously!) but she doesn't get hot enough to melt the case! It stands the short with no problem! By then any user will realize the train isn't running so would be looking for the problem by now! A 2amp fuse in the battery charger/power supply would surfice. All the best, John.
Hi again buddy, thanks for your further comments/question/information. Even refering to all the controlers you have listed here...my massive power supply/source far exeeds all of these! I'll PM you a link to the video on this. Cheers, John.
An informative and well made video. However, many layouts continue in operation after their original builders are long gone! I think I would include a thermal cut-out, perhaps a stat from a discarded Central Heating unit? As it is, there is nothing to to stop it heating right up and melting the plastic case. This could easily happen if a loco with a defective DCC chip is put on a your DC layout by a child in the future.
Hi buddy....no problem! Use .5mm or .75mm for the wiring to the transistor & 1.5mm for the in & out main supplies wiring. Hope this helps? Cheers, John.
Thanks Tony. OK....there's a simple way to overcome getting the wrong ones for the job! Check them out on ebay & there's usually a few on. Place about 6 of them in a watch list & then mail each seller for the date underneath. As each seller replies just delete them until someone gets back to you with a date of 1995 or before...simple! I have a few of the usable ones now. Regards, John.
Hi. I’m keen to upgrade mine. You mention the replacement transistor as being a BD11. I can’t find these on any suppliers lists, but I have found a BD911. Is this what you referred to? Great videos!
Thanks for the comment Ash. As it happens I'm slightly ahead of you. Running up-to 5 locos, the case just gets a little warm....no worries there! With 6 or 7 locos it gets warmer [obviously!] so I have indeed cut some vent holes top & bottom on the controllers. I think you will be gob-smacked at my next vid when I can finish it. Featuring 43 loco's....yes 43! With 18 of them running simultainiousy!! Regards, John.
Fascinating video - just stumbled across it. If I understand it correctly you'll lose the uncontrolled DC output, so the modified controller will only control trains, not accessories like signals or points, right? But I was confused when you say the modified controller will now contol up to 10 or so locos....but this is DC right so basically each controller controls one train on each track, so apart from the occasional double heading why would you need more power, well amps, from a single track controller? Have I missed something?
Enough power for ten normal locos on one train meaning a huge amount in reserve. There are also older powerful locomotives made that use three times the current with fifties technology motors, so power for triple heading them. Unfortunately John is downsizing and selling his entire collection on eBay and seems not in a position to give the definitive answer.
Thanks Jake. Well, using a car battery charger instead of the original wall plug transformer...you can now run easily up-to 6 locomotives on the one track with superb control of them! You can see this in my video '12 locomotives on massive power supply'. On my next video I will be featuring 15 locomotives running on 3 of these modified controllers! Kind regards, John.
Hi guys....can I just please point out here that we are only talking a max of 17 volts....this will never hurt anyone! Also....it is good that youngsters might take an interest in electronics....I was 9 when I first started!! Regards, John.
Hi John, been gathering all the parts and received the 965 from the UK. Will pick-up the BD911 to-morrow and some wiring.Have also located a suitable battery charger for a good price. What gauge is teh wiring? 22 for the small stuff? Didn't see an answer to the posed question re:cutting holes to dissipate the heat.Thanks again
Hi John. Ihave one of these that I bought on E bay, have not moded it yet , thought i would try it out first, engine seems to run erraticly when powered by a modern Hornby power pack. Any thoughts, should I bother with it or buy another? Regards, Graeme.
Hi John another quick question for you I've managed to pick up an early 90's r965 controller but resistor R2 looks like it has overheated badly I bought the controller knowing it was faulty, my question is do you happen to know what the resistance of R2 is so I can source a replacement. Cheers chris
Hi John great video and a great help keeping all these old engines going .I have modified 3 r965's but can not seem to run overhead and rail on the same track without them interfering with each other is there a way round this? cheers Richard
John, have you done a video to show how to improve the later "made in England" post 1995 controller? You mention getting a 50% improvement, I'd like to give that a try with one of my controllers.
Hi John.Its me again, the R 965 and the newer controller seem to run on different voltages as one is 16 and the other 19 volts. Will any other trasistors work ok as I cannot find a BD911 but I think Maplins had BD912. Regards, Graeme.
Oh, I meant you might want to look at the 36-560 as something you could modify as its a better quality starting point than the Hornby R965. How do you think your solution stacks up to the H&M Duette or Tri-ang P5 controllers?
Hello Chris, really sorry for the long delay....things are not too good with my mum at the moment! OK, yes, no problem! R2 is green, blue & black which makes it 56 ohms however...for this to have overheated there could be other reasons/faults for this to happen? be prepared that if you fit a new replacement 56 ohm resistor...there may be other problems? I hope this helps you? Kind regards, John.
Hi John. typically for me I have the made in England version but it's made 2/1/96 I'm hoping that this is not too late.woild you know if it would be suitable for the modification and all. Cheers
Hi John, great video, inspired me to open up a controller I have. Unfortunately it is a Thyristor chipped panel and the panel is marked B.W.H.P 1995. Hope you can find time to explain how this model can be uprated. cheers dave
Excellent video. I'd really appreciate a video on how to m,od the Chinese controller. I just use mine to run in my locos prior to DCC chipping them. Works fine on the smaller locos, on the larger ones it cuts out after two or three minutes. Thermal switch cutting in I'm guessing. Modifying it would save me a few bob, rather than buying a new one that will only get used very occasionally. Thanks again for an excellent video.
Hello again buddy, thanks for your comment & recommendation but I do have to say that my wonderful regulated power supply & my modified controllers are far superior to virtually anything that is readily available out there!! Kind regards, John.
Very interesting video. I'm a bit concerned that as the removed thermal cutout also provides short-circuit protection, your circuit board will take the full short-circuit current until the battery charger fuse blows (which may be somewhat higher current than it says on the fuse). Might be wise to put a 2 or 3 amp fuse in line with the output as a safety measure? Also, would suggest not leaving these unattended in case they get too hot.
Big thanks for your comment buddy. Ok, can I please say that I am way ahead of you! I do indeed plan to do a video on 'Great British Electric Locos' sometime in the future! The problem is I have that many ideas that it takes time to do them all! It will however happen in the not too distant future! Best regards, John.
Hi Graeme....not sure what to say here because I'm not sure which controller you are using whereby the loco is erratic? maybe you could please be a bit more specific? Regards, John.
Hi John. Sorry for not being to clear, I was refering to the R965 I pluged it into a transformer from the new type hornby controller the engine appeared to run a bit erraticly.I have now found the transformer that came with it, and it seems a lot better, it is an old engine I bought un tried.The R965 and the new controller seem to work to a different input voltage?. Is it the system showing your replies so late, or do you not sleep much ? I write again as I am running out of characters, Graeme P
Hi John, great informative video 👍. Am thinking to alter one of my old controllers in order to power a twin motored intercity 225. Can i ask what size is the heat sink in the video, what gauge wires are you using for the input/output and how do you connect your output wires to the teack. Cheers John
Hi John, just found one on ebay. What part does the battery charger paly/ I asume that takes the place of the plug? Or am I mistaken/ Can you explain/ THanks
Hi Ash, thanks for your comment. As it happens I'm not sure which controller you are refering too? But....nevertheless, which ever one it is I can beef it up for you should you wish? No problem! I have now up-loaded the latest vid...I hope you like it? Cheers, John.
Thanks for the comment & good luck with the mod....it's pretty easy really. Just make sure the controller you have is dated 1995 or before? Cheers, John.
Hi Tim. OK, I never had a problem running 1 of any of my old locos. If your locos need servicing they can draw much more current & this will cause this! You could also have an 'over sensitive' thermal cut-out? This mod however will solve many problems like yours. The Chinese [& British 1996 onwards] units can be modded, I've already done some but it's 4 loco's tops [2 older type]. I may do a video on 'how to' of the later types when I have the time, just very busy at the moment. Thanks, John.
Hi buddy...thanks for your whimsical comment! I think dealing with electronics & especially as some youngsters might try & undertake doing these mods....I think the help & permission of their parents would be the correct thing to do! Cheers, John.
Hi buddy, thanks for your comment & question. OK, the R965 will do the job perfectly for switching the points with the uncontrolled 16 volt AC output...go for it! Kind regards, John.
Do you know how to wire up directional LED lighting on a DC train that runs on a DCC layout ? Also, can you beef up a chinese made R965 in a similar way to the Made in England versions ?
I have a couple of R921 controllers which appear to be similar except they have a mains input and internal transformer. Can these be upgraded in the same way?
Hi John thanks for getting back so soon. I am forever cleaning track and wheels thats the problem. I just measured the ac input on two of the controllers at 18v ac for both. With the power dial just off minimum, the track voltage is 23v/24v - measured with 2 different multimeters. a loco will crawl on this. Is it right that when ac is rectified the dc voltage is proportionally higher? I do run old locos (serviced and all good) on modern track. Thanks so much for your help John.
Hi John, thanks for the brilliant how-to on modding the R965. You mentioned connecting to a battery charger - I have a 12volt 900 watt portable jumpstarter with an additional 12 volt accessory outlet. Could I use the jumpstarters big crocodiles in place of the battery charger or will it damage my controller?
AT LAST!!!!! After some very frustrating errors and repairs and the assistance of some very smart people at a club I joined I was able to get one of the controllers working. I tried it on a Dock Authority Shunter and it crawled, just like you said it would.Many thanks for all your encouragement! Charlie
Even if someone doesn't need help on their controller this is still a very entertaining video to watch
Yet again a nice straightforward conversion on how to increase the"power" output especially when running older locos "sucking" more "juice" "double headed" without the "overload" cut out activating
Can I just say, what a well thought-out and presented video this is.
It's hard judge your target audience - and this video gets the balance exactly right. Neither too technical for beginners, nor oversimplified to patronise those of a technical background.
Our hobby is one of the best for learning such a wide variety of skills and youngsters need the encouragement to have a go.
There are some very good switched mode PSUs available these days, and one of these (appropriately rated) would make an ideal replacement. The fact that the recitifier bridge within the controller cleverly polarises the DC input means that the input socket may be retained - but with obvious allowances for current. That said, hard-wiring may still be the best solution in this case.
G
This is an excellent video, explains why the Hornby controller cuts out when I had my old Wrenn City of London trying to run off of it. I ended up using the much older but much beefier Tri-ang / Lines Bros Ltd controller I picked up off of eBay. Nothing like having a controller that sounds like it might kill you if you touch it! :)
The Bachmann 36-560 controller is pretty decent if you are looking for a cheap DC controller.
Hello again Stuart....I think we've covered this question now! All the best, John.
The R921 is the same apart from it has the 240v step down transformer inside. I have doctored two R921s and they work great (thanks John!). The bonus is,the R921 was never made in China so you are guaranteed to get the earlier circuit which you can do this mod to :) Cheers
Hi John, great video again. I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned but when desoldering, if you use the solder pump and then go back over with desoldering wick you'll get a clean lift with no possibility of damaging the track. It makes fitting new components a breeze too.
Hi Colin & thanks for the useful comment. Yes, I did forget to mention a "desoldering wick". I do use them now & then so thanks again for bringing this point to my viewers. All the best, John
Wow! Another great video tutorial. Now I've got to find me a Hornby R965 controller made before 1995, that I can modify. I already have a nice 5 amp battery charger. Guess I'll look inside of my current controller and see if I can modify it before my searching for a Hornby R965. Thank again.
brilliant video John! I was hooked from start to finish. Thank you.
hi john your videos are awesome and from your informative tutalige i did this upgrade on the R.921 controller with the in built transformer and was easy peasy while using this video as a guide ive only converted one so far but it works a treat still waiting to see your ringfield motor service video hope your keeping well keep up the tutorial videos your a legend thanks calvin
646klein Hi Calvin....big thanks for your comments & interest on my channel. Also glad you did the R921 controller mod OK....well done! I fully intend to do more 'how-to' vids as soon as I can but sorry to say things are not too good with my 89 year old mum these days....i'll get there when I can buddy? All the very best, John.
chambs123 im sorry to hear that john all the best for your mum
646klein Thanks for your kind thoughts Cal. All the best, John.
646klein hi john i have a question for you, my psu gives out 13.70v which goes to the R.921 but the controller is only outputs 11.39v does this sound correct or is there something i can do to improve the out put?
646klein Hi buddy sorry for the delay. OK.....the voltage coming out of the controller is 'pulsed DC'.....this being the case I think your meter is telling you porky's, as it is harder for a meter to be acurate on a pulsed voltage. If your meter has 'min-max hold' you should be able to get the acurate voltage with that. Hope this helps? Kind regards, John.
Hi John.
I was only looking on Maplins site as we have one in Exeter, I will look further afield.
Thanks for all your hard work and advice.
Graeme.
Hello again Conor. The massive space in your controller is where the power transformer used to be originally....before they moved the transformer into the wall plug. Hope that helped? Kind regards, John.
John, you are such a talent and a wealth of knowledge, what a great resource you are. Well done mate.
Charlie
Hi John - I just checked my track again closely and I have found the problem - some corrosion on the inside edges of one section of track - I have just cleaned the wheels of a loco and run it for 15 mins full speed, avoiding the suspect bit of track and (virtually) no sparking, no pitting of wheels, no problems on the remainder of my layout. Loco is now crawling over points and I haven't had to clean the wheels. Happy days :) Thanks again John. Dave.
Hi John. Don't doubt your credibility - before posting I did look up your website (and forwarded it to my two guitarist sons). Think I was more concerned about less competent people following your advice without being aware of the issues. But I still wouldn't leave these running unattended! (Interestingly, I found I have one of these in my loft...future project maybe?) Peter
Thanks Peter for passing my site on to your sons. Go for the one in your loft...you will be pleasently surprised at the results! Best, John.
Yes your input has helped me a lot, as I'm quite new to this, plus I can see how much better your layout runs than mine so this has motivated me to do something. I am now replacing several steel track sections with nickel silver, and reducing the inclines (1/22 doesn't work), I have now modified 2 of these controllers with the BD911 transistor + heatsink so should have really good running soon! I can't wait :-) Rgds. Dave.
A very interesting video......nice to watch....you make it look so easy...looking forward to seeing more......
hi john splendid video mate! the mod will definately be worth it to me as i have said before i run quite a few old triang loco's! however i will have to start sourcing that type of controller on ebay. and listening to your comments will have to get the right one! most ebayers only show a small pic so it could be a bit hit and miss to find the correct controller! however i will give it a bash! keep up the good work looking forward to more!!
Hi Charlie....well at last eh! Glad you got everything sorted at last & its good you had some help too. All's-well-that-ends-well as they say! Best regards, John.
Hi again Dave. Yes....the DC voltage is higher than the AC input but I think your 2 meters are reading what is known as residule voltage. If you put a load across this voltage [eg. put a loco on the line] then I think your meters will give you a different result! Also...as you are running the older locos on the modern track....the sleeper-grips can raise the wheels so very slightly that this causes exessive sparking! Anyway....you've sussed the problem now! Best regards, John.
Hi I only recently found your videos I’m seventy plus and dug out my daughters old hornby trains for our granddaughters I tried running them on modern controllers and found the performance poor so after pulling out what’s left of my hair I opted to upgrade with heat sinks and BD911 kit as seen in your utube channel,having read all the bits about overheating I’m worried now about leaving the kids playing with them should I fit thermal cut outs ? And where do I fit a fuse to is it in the battery charger or the controller. Thanks Jim
John, as an alternative to a car battery charger you could use a power unit from a computer which runs on 12 volts.
just founds this fantastic info any chance in showing us how to upgrade the HM2000
kind regards
mark
Thanks buddy. I think it looks easy because I've been soldering all my life. It's not that hard to do really. I do intend to do a video on soldering as I have been asked about this many-a-time! There is a bit of an art being able to solder correctly. Cheers, John.
Hey David thanks for that info & yes...you are correct. I have at least one of the R921's [which I have ripped-out the transformer] & again yes...these will almost certainly have the older circuit! Anybody reading this should take your advise & go for the R921's if they can find them! Glad the mod's worked well for you too. Cheers, John.
Thanks for the kind comment buddy. it pleases me that people take the time-out to say nice things. Best regards, John.
I have three controllers, one a standard Hornby power brick which is awful, I also bought an excellent used Triang 4.5 from Triangman but last week I scored a NOS virgin Triang 4.5 in its original box which came with a job lot of NOS System 6 track and points, point switches and motors and a superb busbar with 40 spring loaded connections made by Lucas... The 4.5's have a very good Aux output so now I can use the power brick for a shunting section and the 4.5's will run two main circuits for trains and can spread the lighting load over two controllers rather than one. I recently bought 3000 leds on ready made strips from Aliexpress 300 on each roll and built in resistors so just simple to solder on a pair of leads for coach lighting, station and signal lighting, paid just over a tenner for 3000 leds which is awesome :D I have earmarked some of the LED's for upgrading the old Lucas bulbs in my Reliant Robin's instruments and upgrading the interior lights with warm white for the clocks and cold white for the interior lamps :)
Very good video John. It was so interesting I had to watch it again! Best wishes Danny
Hi again buddy.....sorry if I missed the question about the holes to help dissipate the heat...not really sure if I ever received it? OK, no big deal though...I just cut holes about 1" diameter in the top & bottom to allow for air flow. I also fitted 2 small fans on the pair of controlers that run my lighting as they got a little extra warm with the lighting being constant!
Hope this helps? Regards, John.
Another excellent viral by John, of transforming an old power controller unit and boosting the pulling power and traction for more locomotives using a single or multiple controller units for your layout. A great aide and conversion for the beginner to the more advanced modeller to know.
Thanks again John. Not sure what else I can say but thanks. Cheers, John.
Can a similar mod be do to the Hornby HM2000 and the extra Left and Right extension units. Also I take it you used 2.5 multi-core cable from the electrical house hold double PVC cable (L+ E~ N- cable PVC encased Grey flat or White round PVC cable for your Power Bus.
Hi again buddy....I have just left a comment with my views on the HM2000. It can be improved but the transformer is so small I wouldn't recommend changing things! I have used proper tinned copper wire for the buss bar(s). All the best, John.
That's a very good point there! Like all other company's...Hornby need to make money! Glad you liked the video.....cheers, John.
Thanks Danny...that's a nice comment....very much appreciated. Are you back home now? Cheers, John.
Excellent video my son has been watching them all he is train daft I have checked his controller and it's the china one looking forward to your video on modding the china made one, keep up the good work.
What a cracking video. Pity mine are both made in China, which is why I run a H&M Clipper linked to a H&M multipack dc controller. Thanks.
Can't fault you there Jay! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, John.
Nice mod john ,that looks like the trany i got with my hornby start set in 1976, but hornby would never want it to power any more then two trains as then people would up grade to the bigger controler like i did , which my perents forked out for....
That's good news Dave. Ummm, corrosion on the track is a very rare condition but I'm glad you found it....well done! I hope my input helped a little? Cheers, John.
Kids have computers and kids watching this will have train sets.
Basically he's encouraging kits to drastically modify electronics they have in their own private spaces where nobody will know they're faffing with it.
Absolutely buddy yes you can....this is a stableised supply which can help but...as there is a small voltage drop through the controller...you are actually better-off starting with about 15 volts DC which most battery chargers will be however, try it & see how it all goes? Best, John.
The first version of the original controller back in the 80s used to have the transformer inside the controller itself and naturally this taken up lots of room. Personally I favoured the original because it was more robust with no stupid plug in the rear of the unit, just a simple wall plug. Cosmetically the original unit was exactly the same but had a yellow knob. However on a note you probably can't do the modification in the video above to it.
I think John will tell you that it is just a wire link. Using 5A fuse wire wouldn't work for several reasons: the thermal cutout is almost certainly NOT carrying the output current (probably in series with the transistor base?), and the failure current of 5A fuse wire is actually somewhat higher than 5A; besides, I'm not sure you can solder fuse wire! Any fuse needs to be inline with the input or output in order to 'see' the current, and one in the charger/supply output would do the job.
OK buddy. Your age doesn't matter. What you do & enjoy is the main thing! You stick to your trains & have some good fun! Cheers, John.
Thanks for your questions Roy. Yes I do know how the wire bidirection LED's. There are videos on youtube [not mine] on how to do this. Also, you can beef-up the later Chinese controllers but only about 60% & they wont cut-out which is a big bonus. I will do a video on this when I have time. Cheers, John.
Those are the same reasons I prefer the older ones. Usually it get's bad without you noticing and then it just shorts out and so you need to buy a new transformer (might be part of Hornby's idea)
Other than you suggest I don't see any problems with the older unit. I've always used the old Hornby R900 and these older units with no complaints and can't say I've ever been shocked either.
Yes buddy, the car battery charger takes the place of the wall plug, it has far more power available than the original transformer plug! I think this is pretty clear & explained well in the vid. You must do the other mods in the vid though for any benefit. Cheers, John.
the force is strong with you it is
Absolutely Tony....you can see how much better these modified contollers perform in many of my videos! Kind regards, John.
Ok, I know I have to do this....so many people have asked me! I will do as soon as I can. Happy New Year, cheers, John.
Hi John.
Looking forward to that.
Graeme.
Hi Fred...thanks for your comment. I do take you point but I wanted to stay away from the thermal thing! I have checked this mod with a full short for 15 minutes & yes...the BD911 does get hot (obviously!) but she doesn't get hot enough to melt the case! It stands the short with no problem! By then any user will realize the train isn't running so would be looking for the problem by now! A 2amp fuse in the battery charger/power supply would surfice. All the best, John.
Thanks for the kind comment Charlie....I try my best. Kindest regards,l John.
Nice one Dave & thanks for your input. Please keep me posted how it all goes. Cheers, John.
OK this end too. Best, John.
Forgot to switch accounts?
Hi again buddy, thanks for your further comments/question/information. Even refering to all the controlers you have listed here...my massive power supply/source far exeeds all of these! I'll PM you a link to the video on this. Cheers, John.
No worries....we all have mental blackouts! Best, John.
An informative and well made video. However, many layouts continue in operation after their original builders are long gone! I think I would include a thermal cut-out, perhaps a stat from a discarded Central Heating unit? As it is, there is nothing to to stop it heating right up and melting the plastic case. This could easily happen if a loco with a defective DCC chip is put on a your DC layout by a child in the future.
Hi buddy....no problem! Use .5mm or .75mm for the wiring to the transistor & 1.5mm for the in & out main supplies wiring. Hope this helps? Cheers, John.
No worries buddy....hope it all works out for you. All the best, John.
Which wire gauges were used on this controller modification?
Thanks Tony. OK....there's a simple way to overcome getting the wrong ones for the job! Check them out on ebay & there's usually a few on. Place about 6 of them in a watch list & then mail each seller for the date underneath. As each seller replies just delete them until someone gets back to you with a date of 1995 or before...simple! I have a few of the usable ones now. Regards, John.
Hi. I’m keen to upgrade mine. You mention the replacement transistor as being a BD11. I can’t find these on any suppliers lists, but I have found a BD911. Is this what you referred to? Great videos!
Thanks for the comment Ash. As it happens I'm slightly ahead of you. Running up-to 5 locos, the case just gets a little warm....no worries there! With 6 or 7 locos it gets warmer [obviously!] so I have indeed cut some vent holes top & bottom on the controllers.
I think you will be gob-smacked at my next vid when I can finish it. Featuring 43 loco's....yes 43! With 18 of them running simultainiousy!! Regards, John.
Fascinating video - just stumbled across it. If I understand it correctly you'll lose the uncontrolled DC output, so the modified controller will only control trains, not accessories like signals or points, right? But I was confused when you say the modified controller will now contol up to 10 or so locos....but this is DC right so basically each controller controls one train on each track, so apart from the occasional double heading why would you need more power, well amps, from a single track controller? Have I missed something?
Enough power for ten normal locos on one train meaning a huge amount in reserve.
There are also older powerful locomotives made that use three times the current with fifties technology motors, so power for triple heading them.
Unfortunately John is downsizing and selling his entire collection on eBay and seems not in a position to give the definitive answer.
Thanks Jake. Well, using a car battery charger instead of the original wall plug transformer...you can now run easily up-to 6 locomotives on the one track with superb control of them! You can see this in my video '12 locomotives on massive power supply'. On my next video I will be featuring 15 locomotives running on 3 of these modified controllers! Kind regards, John.
Thanks for the kind comments & words buddy. I will do a video on the Chinese [& some later UK ones too] as soon as I can. Best regards, John.
Hi guys....can I just please point out here that we are only talking a max of 17 volts....this will never hurt anyone! Also....it is good that youngsters might take an interest in electronics....I was 9 when I first started!! Regards, John.
Hi John, been gathering all the parts and received the 965 from the UK. Will pick-up the BD911 to-morrow and some wiring.Have also located a suitable battery charger for a good price. What gauge is teh wiring? 22 for the small stuff? Didn't see an answer to the posed question re:cutting holes to dissipate the heat.Thanks again
Hi John.
Ihave one of these that I bought on E bay, have not moded it yet , thought i would try it out first, engine seems to run erraticly when powered by a modern Hornby power pack.
Any thoughts, should I bother with it or buy another?
Regards, Graeme.
Hi John another quick question for you I've managed to pick up an early 90's r965 controller but resistor R2 looks like it has overheated badly I bought the controller knowing it was faulty, my question is do you happen to know what the resistance of R2 is so I can source a replacement.
Cheers chris
Hi. I can’t find reference to a BD11 transistor. Did you mean BD911 ? Great video though. I learned a lot. Ta.
Hi John great video and a great help keeping all these old engines going .I have modified 3 r965's but can not seem to run overhead and rail on the same track without them interfering with each other is there a way round this? cheers Richard
John, have you done a video to show how to improve the later "made in England" post 1995 controller? You mention getting a 50% improvement, I'd like to give that a try with one of my controllers.
Hi John.Its me again, the R 965 and the newer controller seem to run on different voltages as one is 16 and the other 19 volts.
Will any other trasistors work ok as I cannot find a BD911 but I think Maplins had BD912.
Regards,
Graeme.
Oh, I meant you might want to look at the 36-560 as something you could modify as its a better quality starting point than the Hornby R965. How do you think your solution stacks up to the H&M Duette or Tri-ang P5 controllers?
Hello Chris, really sorry for the long delay....things are not too good with my mum at the moment! OK, yes, no problem! R2 is green, blue & black which makes it 56 ohms however...for this to have overheated there could be other reasons/faults for this to happen? be prepared that if you fit a new replacement 56 ohm resistor...there may be other problems? I hope this helps you? Kind regards, John.
Hi John. typically for me I have the made in England version but it's made 2/1/96 I'm hoping that this is not too late.woild you know if it would be suitable for the modification and all. Cheers
Hi John, great video, inspired me to open up a controller I have. Unfortunately it is a Thyristor chipped panel and the panel is marked B.W.H.P 1995. Hope you can find time to explain how this model can be uprated. cheers dave
Excellent video. I'd really appreciate a video on how to m,od the Chinese controller. I just use mine to run in my locos prior to DCC chipping them. Works fine on the smaller locos, on the larger ones it cuts out after two or three minutes. Thermal switch cutting in I'm guessing. Modifying it would save me a few bob, rather than buying a new one that will only get used very occasionally. Thanks again for an excellent video.
Hello again buddy, thanks for your comment & recommendation but I do have to say that my wonderful regulated power supply & my modified controllers are far superior to virtually anything that is readily available out there!! Kind regards, John.
Thanks John, here is the other dumb question. Now living in Canada does that have any impact on this excersize?
Thanks
Very interesting video. I'm a bit concerned that as the removed thermal cutout also provides short-circuit protection, your circuit board will take the full short-circuit current until the battery charger fuse blows (which may be somewhat higher current than it says on the fuse). Might be wise to put a 2 or 3 amp fuse in line with the output as a safety measure? Also, would suggest not leaving these unattended in case they get too hot.
Big thanks for your comment buddy. Ok, can I please say that I am way ahead of you! I do indeed plan to do a video on 'Great British Electric Locos' sometime in the future! The problem is I have that many ideas that it takes time to do them all! It will however happen in the not too distant future!
Best regards, John.
Hi Graeme....not sure what to say here because I'm not sure which controller you are using whereby the loco is erratic? maybe you could please be a bit more specific? Regards, John.
Hi John.
Sorry for not being to clear, I was refering to the R965 I pluged it into a transformer from the new type hornby controller the engine appeared to run a bit erraticly.I have now found the transformer that came with it, and it seems a lot better, it is an old engine I bought un tried.The R965 and the new controller seem to work to a different input voltage?. Is it the system showing your replies so late, or do you not sleep much ? I write again as I am running out of characters, Graeme P
Hi John, great informative video 👍. Am thinking to alter one of my old controllers in order to power a twin motored intercity 225. Can i ask what size is the heat sink in the video, what gauge wires are you using for the input/output and how do you connect your output wires to the teack.
Cheers
John
Hi Conor....thanks for your comment & yes.....all the contents are noted & agreed! All the best, John.
Hi John,
just found one on ebay. What part does the battery charger paly/ I asume that takes the place of the plug? Or am I mistaken/ Can you explain/
THanks
Hi Ash, thanks for your comment. As it happens I'm not sure which controller you are refering too? But....nevertheless, which ever one it is I can beef it up for you should you wish? No problem!
I have now up-loaded the latest vid...I hope you like it? Cheers, John.
Thanks for the comment & good luck with the mod....it's pretty easy really. Just make sure the controller you have is dated 1995 or before?
Cheers, John.
Hi Tim. OK, I never had a problem running 1 of any of my old locos. If your locos need servicing they can draw much more current & this will cause this! You could also have an 'over sensitive' thermal cut-out? This mod however will solve many problems like yours.
The Chinese [& British 1996 onwards] units can be modded, I've already done some but it's 4 loco's tops [2 older type]. I may do a video on 'how to' of the later types when I have the time, just very busy at the moment. Thanks, John.
Hi buddy...thanks for your whimsical comment! I think dealing with electronics & especially as some youngsters might try & undertake doing these mods....I think the help & permission of their parents would be the correct thing to do! Cheers, John.
Hi buddy, thanks for your comment & question. OK, the R965 will do the job perfectly for switching the points with the uncontrolled 16 volt AC output...go for it! Kind regards, John.
Do you know how to wire up directional LED lighting on a DC train that runs on a DCC layout ? Also, can you beef up a chinese made R965 in a similar way to the Made in England versions ?
Nice video you the Man John thanks :).
Thanks mate......Seasons greetings & best regards, John.
John, what kind of wire are you using for power supply. AC/DC? What gauge? The guys at store cannot help.Sorry for being a pain.
Thanks
John, are you or any of your followers going to the SECC show this month?
I have a couple of R921 controllers which appear to be similar except they have a mains input and internal transformer. Can these be upgraded in the same way?
Hi John thanks for getting back so soon. I am forever cleaning track and wheels thats the problem. I just measured the ac input on two of the controllers at 18v ac for both. With the power dial just off minimum, the track voltage is 23v/24v - measured with 2 different multimeters. a loco will crawl on this. Is it right that when ac is rectified the dc voltage is proportionally higher? I do run old locos (serviced and all good) on modern track. Thanks so much for your help John.
Hi John, thanks for the brilliant how-to on modding the R965. You mentioned connecting to a battery charger - I have a 12volt 900 watt portable jumpstarter with an additional 12 volt accessory outlet. Could I use the jumpstarters big crocodiles in place of the battery charger or will it damage my controller?