Really useful, I successfully managed to resurrect a 30 year old HST and didn't lose any brush springs! It ran badly after the service, and turned out I pushed the wheels on the axles too far, which increased friction. Many thanks for this and your other videos.
Sam, I absolutely love your videos. They’re fun, informative and there’s always something different to keep you going. You and the railway have kept me company through many happy hours (and some difficult ones). Now, thanks to this excellent tutorial I’ve finally serviced my first loco and have brought a sad, seemingly near death Class 29 back to energetic life! Thank you for doing what you do. Here’s to many more joyous years of Sam’s Trains!
A nice clear video with some good tips Sam, well done. I hope I don't seem big headed but here are a few suggestions that have kept my models going for the last 43 years :) delete if you wish, no problem. 5:51 add in a brush between the teeth with an old tooth brush, removes stubborn grime and any bits stuck in there. 7:11 may I suggest instead of super glue use something like RS Pro Blue Thread locking Adhesive, super glue breaks down under heat also this stuff will only cure where it is airless so if you do get any slashes it can be easily cleaned off. 10:42 wheel removal on the plastic side only, a medium flat blade screw driver can be used to gently pry between wheel and chassis to get the wheel off, work around it bit by bit to make sure it comes off evenly. 17:25 oh, I'd personally not recommend any kind of abrasive on commutators, the micro scratches caused will cause brush wear and will fill with debris, this will cause heating due to resistance mate, hope its ok to say?.
Thanks a lot for the tips Mike - much appreciated! I'll definitely use some of those! I've heard the same thing about not using anything abrasive on the commutators - but I once tried it experimentally on a very badly tarnished one, and it doesn't seem to attract dirt any more than others do - the scratches seem to disappear again after a quick run and another clean... and then they really shine! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I use a very small Minicraft grinder (with a wire wheel inserted, not a grinding disc LOL). It only runs on 3.8v and is extremely gentle, yet tough enough to polish the surface of commutators and wheels.
Have a problem with one of these on a tender which is puzzling me and wondered if you could help. Motor runs on test when touching the two brush covers or the live connection terminal and neg brush cover. I cant get a neg contact off the wheels or motor body though . Any ideas??
Just done this for the first time following your guide and - other than a pesky spring - all has gone swimmingly. Just done a Hornby class 37, an HST power car and the Duchess of Abercorn all in about an hour. Happy days! A *lot* more locos to go!
Thanks Sam. I am returning to the hobby after many years (decades!) away and this was a very useful guide for me now that I am about to get out all my old locos again and will need to do this stuff! Many thanks.
Terrific video Sam, thanks. On mine I found it enough to clean the commutator with a cotton bud through the upper hole in the engine cover (masked here by the capacitor) and so avoid having to remove the engine cover and the wheels - doing a thorough clean of the commutator would always be best, but that cut-out seems to line up nicely to allow the cleaning of the area that the brushes make contact with, which was enough. Spinning the central gear while holding a cotton bud dipped in surgical spirit against the commutator removed a large build up of muck that immediately freed up the mech. A spot of oil here and there and the previously seized motor was running again. Your video gave me the confidence to have a go and glad I did.
Hi Sam recently serviced my hornby western diesel in same way that u demonstrated in this video now she runs like new best it's been in three years many thanks dan and Kaitlyn 😁😀
Good work cleaning up these mechanisms Sam. Some tips I use. (1) If you can get rubber grips for the jaws of the vice so they don't bite into anything you place in the vice, but they will grip without marking the item. To knock out the wheel axle's, get an old same diameter metal mini screwdriver (like you have on your bench) and then Dremel off 10mm or above the Phillips (star) or Flat blade. File flat the surface and to clean off any bares. You now have one instant axle tool. Use wire wool to clean copper gear cover, brush spring retainers and clean the axles. Eek, the Draper/Dremel in use, no, no, no just in case of an accident to you or your model. Better to use a Fiberglass Pen cleaner to clean the commutator surface and continue to clean out after. When replacing the wheels on the axles, add a very tiny spot of modellers grease or oil inside the axle holes for free running. If you have an OO Gauge back to back checker. Put it between the wheels and tighten up the wheels in the vice until the gauge fits in & out semi-tight between the wheels backs to re-gauge them as usual. I hope these tips help you Sam and your readers out.
Thanks a lot John - I like the rubber grip tip, I'll be sure to look into that! I have used fibreglass cleaners on armatures before - but they don't do as good a job as the Dremel - I know it's a bit dodgy, but I've done it for years with no problems! Thanks very much for these, Cheers, Sam :)
Had my first attempt at dismantling the motor encouraged by your clear instructions in the video. You were right about the springs! Just going on eBay having spent the last 30 minutes on my hands and knees looking for one that got away :-). Great video. Thanks.
Ahh that's such a nuisance John - I've done the very same thing many a time, sometimes it can't be helped! You can buy a load of them, then it shouldn't matter too much if you ever lose another! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Good drills Samuel, his vid helped me take apart my "new to me" 47, which has a bogie mounted RF motor. As expected, very nasty and sticky in there so twenty minutes of cleaning the cogs out and connectors. And wow massive difference, less power required to get moving, smoother running once underway and for some reason better navigation of point work. Can only assume this is because there is less resistance inside the inner workings fighting the natural resistance you get when passing through frogs. Good show old chap !
The early "Silver Seal" Ringfields only have 3 gears. The are a bit different to pull apart, but still east enough. Thanks for the great update to the overhaul/maintenance process.
Electro-lube is my new favourite word 😂😂 Good advice about not catching your hand on the wire wheel. I was once using a big one on an angle grinder to clean something and caught myself. It chewed through my glove and the flesh beneath it. It was a fun trip to A&E though, there was a drunk chap with two policeman. Only in Essex!
haha oh mine too!! ;D Ooh yeah - if it grabs your clothes, you're done! Sorry to hear you got caught - that does sound very nasty mate! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I do the same with my ringfiejd motors ,I find them easy to service unlike now I wouldn’t dare take apart some of my latest Bachman or hornby but thank goodness they just need a clean and the odd drop of oil ,I too have amassed lots of spares I got a non runner from hattons it now runs like a Swiss watch ,all the best Sam ,Mark 😊👍🏻
I am new to the hobby so have much to learn but just as it is with our cars being serviced , then servicing your locomotives is obviously just as important so watching how sam does this and then buying the correct tools to do it what i shall be certainly doing ? Paul
Hey Sam thanks for this, i saw your earlier ringfield vid and was not sure about bending the spring retainers. Now i have seen you do it i think its time to work on my early 125 i've had from new but has been in box in the loft since 1996! Unsurprisingly it didn't run too well when i came back to the hobby a few weeks ago. I look forward to getting through your other vids
OK Sam, I had to extend my quota to 3 Videos tonight, after seeing this one! 😉 Fascinating. That drive looks just like the 1964-1993 Bachmann Standard Line here in the Colonies!! I really enjoyed that, even though I've been servicing my Locos for over 40 years! 😳😳 One thing... I would strongly recommend NOT using a wire wheel on the Commutator. It leaves an uneven surface, not always visible to the naked eye. This is far more critical on the "pancake" type Motors like this one. Instead, find a VERY fine Grit (2000-2500), rigidly mounted Sandpaper. I mount mine on a trimmed Popsicle Stick. *Gently* rest the Sanding Board across the Commutator whilst spinning the gear on the opposite side. Like your method, you'll not want to remove more than a very trace amount of the Copper! But with practise, this will yield a nice, FLAT Comm, which will run smoother, and extend Brush life. 😊 Like anything of the sort, try it on an old dead Motor, if you have one. ✔ Carmine ✈🚂🚙
haha glad to hear that mate - that's very interesting, they must have adopted a similar mechanism then! I've been using wire wheels on the commutators for many years now - and the results have been excellent - ones that I did years ago still wipe perfectly clean very easily! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Many people have used the same method you use... Nothing wrong with it. They're hearty Motors, although not the smoothest at crawling. The flat sand method helps slow speed control.... slightly. 😉 But I'm a firm believer in whatever feels better for YOU!
I'm Canadian & have a Hornby intercity trainset I received as a gift while living in the UK back in 1980. I'm working on a layout & have been having performance issues with my train. I enjoyed your video on care & maintenance. I think I broke the clips holding the motor cover on while detaching the short wire on the left hand side, if you're are looking at the motor facing the brush contacts. The motor still works with the cover not in place due to my fault, & I thought of using a small piece of tape at the top of the motor housing to keep things in place. I also thought of using small screws at the spots where the cover fastened. I don't have a replacement motor or cover. Let me know what you think. Thanks
Hi J, thanks very much for the comment. Yes those clips can easily break - I've had that happen once or twice too. Provided you can keep it still by other means, it should be fine! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I watched. I learned. I applied the knowledge (thankfully I didn't have to bend the brush tabs) I rejoiced in how comparatively low-maintenance my old Marklin motors and drive trains really are.
I thought I'd just add something I've discovered this evening whilst trying to get an old Hornby Western working properly again, and it's a STRANGE one: Problem: Would work fine in one direction but in the other, over a few minutes would slow and stop, drawing no current. Tried all the normal stuff, new brushes, springs, cleaned commutator, lubricated etc. and no change. Solution: Clean away corrosion on the under side of the brush spring retaining leaves. Obviously the corrosion was acting as a dielectric and allowing current initially but becoming less conductive over time when the current was passing in one direction.
7:14 - have you considered using a light threadlocker for this (for example, TL243) rather than Superglue? Appreciate I'm probably 5 years too late to suggest this...
I just tripped over this video as I was doing a major service on a dead Hornby Class 25 and Lima Class 37. I’m not convinced that using a wire brush on the commutator is a good idea, especially no a steel wire brush. Apart from any broken bristles getting attracted to the magnet, if it’s still in place, it is very abrasive. If you’re going to use this method you would be better off using one with brass wires. The same applies to the wheels, so there is less chance of damage. On the commutator you could try a small drop of liquid metal polish on a cotton bud, or a small piece of Brasso wadding. If there is scoring then a very fine wet-and dry paper to smooth those out then polish with the metal polish, followed by IPA/lighter fluid to clean any residue. I can’t add a photo here, but a couple of minutes with metal polish does a really good job, without the wear a wire brush may cause to the thin copper contacts.
Hi Sam could you please advise as to which lubrication ( grease ) to use on old & new Triang/Hornby gears and motor as I am new to this hobby? Regards John.
Hi John - I've used silicone grease (the thinner the better) for a few years with good results on gears! For bearings, hemline sewing machine oil used very sparingly does a great job, Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video! Just spent a very satisfying hour servicing a ringfield on a 25ish year old class 37 (which previously squeezed and stuttered) - now runs like a charm 😀 Next up my even older HST. Any advice where to get gear pullers from?
I just performed this operation on my class 37... the brushes were worn DIAGONAL! I think I need some new ones. I also want to clean my Class 33, after doing some basic maintanance to it, it sparks like crazy when running. However, although it looks like a ringfield, it's a considerably different design than that. I can't even remove the bogie from the chassis, let alone the motor from the bogie...
haha yeah - definitely some new ones are in order! Ahh interesting - I'm not sure about the class 33.... are you sure it isn't a Lima one?? Thanks for watching - Sam :)
My advice would be to try everything in the video - if it's still not running right, there may be a problem with the armature :( Thanks for watching - Sam :)
great video - can anyone confirm what voltage these motors are? I want to service one for a friend. I havent got track or the transformers to connect to the track - but I have a DC power convertor which I can adjust to any voltage
Hi Sam. Where did you get the gear puller from and how much did it cost? I'd suggest cleaning between the commutator segment with a pin or similar implement. You don't use a gauge to check the back to back distance? Do you have any problems with locos shorting over points?
Hey! I bought it on Ebay I believe - it's not brilliant but it does the job - it cost less than £10 I reckon! Yes, if you're not using the dremel to clean the commutator, then you can do - though the gaps are large enough to clean using cotton. A gauge is not needed with these units, since the chassis acts as a gauge: get the wheels too tight, and they'll bite, get them too lose, and the gears won't mesh properly! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam thanks for this - a very good logical explanation. I have serviced quite a few of these motors in a similar way (except for the wire brushing bit) but I have an unusual issue with a couple of them recently that I don't understand. They run much quicker in one direction than the other. Even without the gears attached! (just the motor as per your initial testing after cleaning). In both cases I have also replaced the brushes and springs. I wondered if you or anyone else on this thread have encountered this issue with ringfields and why that is or how it might be fixed? This equates to the engine (an HST in these two cases) running much faster when going backwards on the track than forwards.
Thanks a lot David, appreciate it! That's interesting - have you tried taking measurements of the resistance of each winding? It's possible that there's a fault there - each winding should measure within 0.1-0.2 Ohm of each-other, if they don't, that indicates a possible fault! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam for the reply - yes I did measure the windings - all normal. The only thing that I can think of is that I need to try your wire brush trick: because there is still a little bit of ingrained dirt in some of the scratches on the armature and maybe these are not symmetrical... further cleaning is the only option left at this point because it seems electrical rather than mechanical... cheers David
Hi Sam! So my grandparent's friend gave them some Hornby things and also an old Hornby county of Norfolk in the blue livery and it's a ringfield motor ran loco. The motor you showed in this vid had 4 wheels but mine has 6. I'm a younger modeller and my grandparents are finding me locos and rolling stock in a nearby auction house. Most things are used and quite old. If you can tell me anything about my class 47 that would help. Thanks for reading :D
Hi John, thanks very much for the comment - yes some do have extra wheels, but they're usually just dummies if they're on this design. If the extra wheels are driven, then you most likely have an ex-dapol model, which are a bit devilish to service! I tend to recommend just a drop of oil on the moving parts on those, and hope that does it! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I think I see the problem which I have, your cog is hard up against the body. On mine the shaft appears to be spring loaded loaded and therefore cannot be fully engaged hence the spinning. Any ideas?
Hi Charlie - the spring effect will most likely be caused by the brushes/springs pushing against the commutator. If the gears aren't meshing, the gear need to be pushed further on the shaft - has the gear become loose at all? Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Think I am snookered as I put a touch of superglue onto the shaft as suggested and cannot get the cog any further on it push the shaft without it springing back
Hi Sam, great video, and really informative. My son and I love your channel and all the videos you post. He's a big fan. Quick question. I want to service the ringfield notors in his trains, would you mind telling me which bearing puller you used in the video or make a suggestion as to which type would be suitable for the job. Many thanks. Daniel
That's lovely to hear Daniel, many thanks to you both for watching! If you do a search for 'pinion puller' on Ebay, you'll find the one like mine! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Do you know how to repair cab lighting in a old hornby class 47? I took the body off but not sure where all the lighting wires go or if you could show a video with lighting wiring? Many thanks paul
Hi Paul - the bulbs usually have two wires coming from it, one sometimes with a diode. One wire needs connecting to one bogie, and the other wire goes to the second bogie! If you get them right, the bulb will turn on only when the engine runs forward! Feel free to email me a photo of your arrangement, and I'll take a look! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thanks sam I'll send some photos I've got one bulb working but the other one is the problem as it doesnt appear to have enough sockets on the motor. They both have diodes one from each end. This is how it is theres a very short wire which plugs in from the silver socket to the front of the motor. One bulb fits at the back of the motor, the other cable from the front light goes into the back bogie. There is a cable then connects from the back bogie into the other silver socket in the motor. The back lights one fits in the back bogie (nearest to the rear lights) as it's a short cable but on the original hornby clas 43 diagram it shows the long cable coming from the rear light ( with the diode)going into the front motor bogie but I cant figure out where it can plug in because all the sockets are already filled think that makes sense.?
Hi Sam. Have a problem with one of these on a tender which is puzzling me and wondered if you could help. Motor runs on test when touching the two brush covers or the live connection terminal and neg brush cover. I cant get a neg contact off the wheels or motor body though . Any ideas??
Hey Andy - on some models, there's a small wire that connects the metal brush retainer to the chassis - can you see one on yours? That left hand brush should be live to the chassis, so if it isn't, you'll need to find a way to put a wire in, which should sort that for you! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey Sam, super helpful video!, just wondering where you picked up the vice that you used in the video, as I cannot find one with a wide enough jaw, or either it is too massive and expensive
Hi sam, i have a Flying scotsman with a ringfield motor which 1. doesnt seem to get current through most of the time... 2. makes a horrendous racket when it does go and slows down too... any ideas? Love your videos, Will
Definitely try a full service, and check the contacts between the loco and tender, possibly cleaning the loco axles - that's often the cause of issues! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam'sTrains I think the connection between loco and tender is broken as it's just one pin that goes through... This was my first ever model and it hasn't run for 13 years after being rebuilt several times... It started to run this morning, going round 30cm before cutting out... It isn't powerful enough to even push the flying Scotsman body. I might have to buy a new one.
Hey Sam. Just picked up a Hornby Diesel D7101 (Bear) with this motor in it. I serviced him all up and everything and he ran great up until a few hours ago. He will start to jerk, slow down greatly to a crawl, and then die. He'll start back up again if I jiggle him around a bit, but if I stop him from running or interrupt it in any way, it'll happen again. I cleaned the track, the wheels, and all the pickups. The motor hasn't burned out or anything, so what do you think this could be? Asking since he's literally the same diesel as in the vid just Bear-ified, lol. Thanks! - Jack
That's awesome Jack - sorry to hear about the problems, try cleaning the commutator again, but don't use any oil on the front shaft - maybe the oil is causing problems! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Really interesting Sam I never dared open my ringfield motors be before but you’ve demystified them Thanks Do you have similar servicing videos for all makes of engines? Also what make of oil do you use? Keep it up, good luck 😊
That's great to hear Jon - hope you can give it a go! I have videos for quite a few of them yeah - there's a maintenance playlist if you're interested. I use Hemline sewing machine oil! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I haven’t touched my railway stud in years All the stock , tools , paint and materials has all been packed away for 12 years now I have engines from so many different manufacturers Triang, Hornby Dublo,Lima, Bachmann Dapol etc and a few odd ones ones too I can’t wait to get it all back again and make a fresh start 😊
I bought a hymek off ebay, and then I didn't run it for a year. Now I tried running it, and it makes a squeaking sound and i see sparks. And I even saw some smoke coming from it. Do you know what is wrong?
Subject R399 tender for Flying Scot R398 - 4472. How do I separate the motor unit from the chassis of the tender? The heavy metal motor frame has number S4565. There does not appear to be any clips/springs/catches. I wish to take out the armature as there is some physical restriction to free rotation.
Hi Jack - it could be an issue with the motor - try re-cleaning it, and reapplying the oil, but only in tiny quantities! Does this happen when you power just the motor, without the gears? Cheers, Sam :)
Hi Sam, bit of a odd question but i just got a brand new Bachmann Toby and he runs really smooth but also really slow. I have to turn my controller upto 60+% to get him to move at speed. Does yours do this or does mine sound like it needs work done to it?
Hmm, I'd say that's pretty normal - that can be an indicator of a fault with the motor, but mine is slow too, so I'm sure it's fine! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for the super video Sam; most informative. I've gained a renewed interest in my dusty railway collection during lockdown through watching your excellent channel and your content and the alarmingly pained noises my locomotives make when set upon the track have spurred me on to service them. A quick question. Where can I find the oil applicator you use? Thanks in advance and long may the Sam's Trains channel keep steaming!
Thanks so much Thomas, that's really lovely to hear - good luck sorting yours out! I use a Gaugemaster one - if you do a search for Gaugemaster oiling pens on Ebay, you should fine them! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, great video! I was just wondering if you could do a video on how to service the Hornby class 156? If you want to but don't have one I can send it to you. kind regards, TheNorthern323.
Hi' sam do you no how to fix my train it is going so slow and it's comming smoke frome the motor ore the battery plz can you help me if you dont understand sorry it is because i am from sweden
Sam'sTrains Hi Sam. After being carefully stored away, in the original packaging, since purchase in 1986, I have decided to return to modelling and running my R.042 LNER 4-6-2 Loco No. 4476 ‘Royal Lancer’. It has a Hornby Ringfield motor which is in the tender. Removing the tender from the chasis was fine but, I need a little advice regarding the removal of the motor from the wheel chasis. Can you help please?
Hi Sam, nice video and servicing. I have challenge for you Make a video while speaking in Indian English and discribe your thoughts about Indian railway.😁😁💙💚💛💜
Thanks lot Richa - haha, what would Indian English involve?? You mean an Indian accent?? I might get into trouble if I did that ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Do check my live servicing streams - there's a good chance I did one already, if not, I'll add it to my list of video suggestions! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I wouldn't clean a commutator in the way that you did. The 'black' is almost certainly carbon from the brushes and as this is carbon it is an excellent electrical condutor so apart from wiping with ipa or similar it's not neccessary to abrade the commutator.
Eugh... that's one HARD brush! Good it's a simple diesel, if I used that on my models there'd be no handrails or details left! For your more delicate models I hope you bring out something softer? ;)
haha - I've used that brush on even modern steamers - if you're careful, it doesn't harm them!! I don't go crazy on the delicate ones like that though ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Really useful, I successfully managed to resurrect a 30 year old HST and didn't lose any brush springs! It ran badly after the service, and turned out I pushed the wheels on the axles too far, which increased friction. Many thanks for this and your other videos.
haha very well done mate - those springs are a pain! Yes I've done that a few times in the past too!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, I absolutely love your videos. They’re fun, informative and there’s always something different to keep you going. You and the railway have kept me company through many happy hours (and some difficult ones). Now, thanks to this excellent tutorial I’ve finally serviced my first loco and have brought a sad, seemingly near death Class 29 back to energetic life! Thank you for doing what you do. Here’s to many more joyous years of Sam’s Trains!
Thanks so much Drake, you're very kind mate! That's awesome - glad your class 29 is working well again!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
A nice clear video with some good tips Sam, well done. I hope I don't seem big headed but here are a few suggestions that have kept my models going for the last 43 years :) delete if you wish, no problem. 5:51 add in a brush between the teeth with an old tooth brush, removes stubborn grime and any bits stuck in there. 7:11 may I suggest instead of super glue use something like RS Pro Blue Thread locking Adhesive, super glue breaks down under heat also this stuff will only cure where it is airless so if you do get any slashes it can be easily cleaned off. 10:42 wheel removal on the plastic side only, a medium flat blade screw driver can be used to gently pry between wheel and chassis to get the wheel off, work around it bit by bit to make sure it comes off evenly. 17:25 oh, I'd personally not recommend any kind of abrasive on commutators, the micro scratches caused will cause brush wear and will fill with debris, this will cause heating due to resistance mate, hope its ok to say?.
Thanks a lot for the tips Mike - much appreciated! I'll definitely use some of those!
I've heard the same thing about not using anything abrasive on the commutators - but I once tried it experimentally on a very badly tarnished one, and it doesn't seem to attract dirt any more than others do - the scratches seem to disappear again after a quick run and another clean... and then they really shine!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I use a very small Minicraft grinder (with a wire wheel inserted, not a grinding disc LOL). It only runs on 3.8v and is extremely gentle, yet tough enough to polish the surface of commutators and wheels.
I'm the 30,000 subscriber
Have a problem with one of these on a tender which is puzzling me and wondered if you could help. Motor runs on test when touching the two brush covers or the live connection terminal and neg brush cover. I cant get a neg contact off the wheels or motor body though . Any ideas??
Just done this for the first time following your guide and - other than a pesky spring - all has gone swimmingly. Just done a Hornby class 37, an HST power car and the Duchess of Abercorn all in about an hour. Happy days! A *lot* more locos to go!
You know I wanna say thanks for replying to comments all the time I don’t know any other youtuber like that thank you
haha that's very kind of you - it's my pleasure to reply to everyone! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Thanks Sam. I am returning to the hobby after many years (decades!) away and this was a very useful guide for me now that I am about to get out all my old locos again and will need to do this stuff! Many thanks.
That's great to hear Alan - glad this was handy for you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Terrific video Sam, thanks. On mine I found it enough to clean the commutator with a cotton bud through the upper hole in the engine cover (masked here by the capacitor) and so avoid having to remove the engine cover and the wheels - doing a thorough clean of the commutator would always be best, but that cut-out seems to line up nicely to allow the cleaning of the area that the brushes make contact with, which was enough. Spinning the central gear while holding a cotton bud dipped in surgical spirit against the commutator removed a large build up of muck that immediately freed up the mech. A spot of oil here and there and the previously seized motor was running again. Your video gave me the confidence to have a go and glad I did.
Thank you! Yeah often that's enough to do it! Glad to hear you managed to get the job done! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam recently serviced my hornby western diesel in same way that u demonstrated in this video now she runs like new best it's been in three years many thanks dan and Kaitlyn 😁😀
Ahh that's great to hear - you must have done a very good job! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Good work cleaning up these mechanisms Sam. Some tips I use. (1) If you can get rubber grips for the jaws of the vice so they don't bite into anything you place in the vice, but they will grip without marking the item. To knock out the wheel axle's, get an old same diameter metal mini screwdriver (like you have on your bench) and then Dremel off 10mm or above the Phillips (star) or Flat blade. File flat the surface and to clean off any bares. You now have one instant axle tool. Use wire wool to clean copper gear cover, brush spring retainers and clean the axles. Eek, the Draper/Dremel in use, no, no, no just in case of an accident to you or your model. Better to use a Fiberglass Pen cleaner to clean the commutator surface and continue to clean out after. When replacing the wheels on the axles, add a very tiny spot of modellers grease or oil inside the axle holes for free running. If you have an OO Gauge back to back checker. Put it between the wheels and tighten up the wheels in the vice until the gauge fits in & out semi-tight between the wheels backs to re-gauge them as usual. I hope these tips help you Sam and your readers out.
Thanks a lot John - I like the rubber grip tip, I'll be sure to look into that! I have used fibreglass cleaners on armatures before - but they don't do as good a job as the Dremel - I know it's a bit dodgy, but I've done it for years with no problems!
Thanks very much for these,
Cheers,
Sam :)
This helped a newbie a bunch. Love how clear and easy your videos are too understand. Thank you
Thank you for this video Sam. It helped me get a hornby class 47 working again which hasn't been working for 30 years and saved £££!
That's fantastic to hear Chris - really glad you were able to sort it! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Had my first attempt at dismantling the motor encouraged by your clear instructions in the video. You were right about the springs! Just going on eBay having spent the last 30 minutes on my hands and knees looking for one that got away :-). Great video. Thanks.
Ahh that's such a nuisance John - I've done the very same thing many a time, sometimes it can't be helped! You can buy a load of them, then it shouldn't matter too much if you ever lose another!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
yes finally, a proper guide on how to service a ringfield motor by sams trains !!!
thanks for that
haha no problem mate - hope you like it! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Good drills Samuel, his vid helped me take apart my "new to me" 47, which has a bogie mounted RF motor.
As expected, very nasty and sticky in there so twenty minutes of cleaning the cogs out and connectors.
And wow massive difference, less power required to get moving, smoother running once underway and for some reason better navigation of point work. Can only assume this is because there is less resistance inside the inner workings fighting the natural resistance you get when passing through frogs.
Good show old chap !
Great to hear that mate, very well done for that - yes it's very satisfying isn't it?!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The early "Silver Seal" Ringfields only have 3 gears. The are a bit different to pull apart, but still east enough.
Thanks for the great update to the overhaul/maintenance process.
Yes you're right, the early ones were a different design, but the process is basically the same!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
it was three years ago... good to see an update :-)
That's true - though it's not changed much!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. I have this exact loco and I was looking how to service it. This is going to be so useful, Thank you very much.
Fantastic - hope it goes well for you mate! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Electro-lube is my new favourite word 😂😂
Good advice about not catching your hand on the wire wheel. I was once using a big one on an angle grinder to clean something and caught myself. It chewed through my glove and the flesh beneath it. It was a fun trip to A&E though, there was a drunk chap with two policeman. Only in Essex!
haha oh mine too!! ;D
Ooh yeah - if it grabs your clothes, you're done! Sorry to hear you got caught - that does sound very nasty mate!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I do the same with my ringfiejd motors ,I find them easy to service unlike now I wouldn’t dare take apart some of my latest Bachman or hornby but thank goodness they just need a clean and the odd drop of oil ,I too have amassed lots of spares I got a non runner from hattons it now runs like a Swiss watch ,all the best Sam ,Mark 😊👍🏻
Glad to hear that! Yeah the modern stuff is much scarier, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I am new to the hobby so have much to learn but just as it is with our cars being serviced , then servicing your locomotives is obviously just as important so watching how sam does this and then buying the correct tools to do it what i shall be certainly doing ? Paul
Hey Sam thanks for this, i saw your earlier ringfield vid and was not sure about bending the spring retainers. Now i have seen you do it i think its time to work on my early 125 i've had from new but has been in box in the loft since 1996! Unsurprisingly it didn't run too well when i came back to the hobby a few weeks ago. I look forward to getting through your other vids
My pleasure Graham - that's great to hear, all the best with your 125 servicing!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam now I know how to service a Hornby ringfield diesel.
Thanks mate - glad it was helpful to you! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
OK Sam, I had to extend my quota to 3 Videos tonight, after seeing this one! 😉
Fascinating. That drive looks just like the 1964-1993 Bachmann Standard Line here in the Colonies!!
I really enjoyed that, even though I've been servicing my Locos for over 40 years! 😳😳
One thing... I would strongly recommend NOT using a wire wheel on the Commutator. It leaves an uneven surface, not always visible to the naked eye. This is far more critical on the "pancake" type Motors like this one.
Instead, find a VERY fine Grit (2000-2500), rigidly mounted Sandpaper. I mount mine on a trimmed Popsicle Stick. *Gently* rest the Sanding Board across the Commutator whilst spinning the gear on the opposite side.
Like your method, you'll not want to remove more than a very trace amount of the Copper! But with practise, this will yield a nice, FLAT Comm, which will run smoother, and extend Brush life. 😊
Like anything of the sort, try it on an old dead Motor, if you have one. ✔
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
haha glad to hear that mate - that's very interesting, they must have adopted a similar mechanism then! I've been using wire wheels on the commutators for many years now - and the results have been excellent - ones that I did years ago still wipe perfectly clean very easily! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Many people have used the same method you use... Nothing wrong with it. They're hearty Motors, although not the smoothest at crawling. The flat sand method helps slow speed control.... slightly. 😉 But I'm a firm believer in whatever feels better for YOU!
Glad to see you've discontinued the practice of pouring lighter fluid over the desk LOL
haha yes indeed - lol ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm Canadian & have a Hornby intercity trainset I received as a gift while living in the UK back in 1980. I'm working on a layout & have been having performance issues with my train. I enjoyed your video on care & maintenance. I think I broke the clips holding the motor cover on while detaching the short wire on the left hand side, if you're are looking at the motor facing the brush contacts. The motor still works with the cover not in place due to my fault, & I thought of using a small piece of tape at the top of the motor housing to keep things in place. I also thought of using small screws at the spots where the cover fastened. I don't have a replacement motor or cover. Let me know what you think. Thanks
Hi J, thanks very much for the comment. Yes those clips can easily break - I've had that happen once or twice too. Provided you can keep it still by other means, it should be fine!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, again a very interesting tutorial. Excellent.
Thanks a lot Norbert! :D
I watched. I learned. I applied the knowledge (thankfully I didn't have to bend the brush tabs)
I rejoiced in how comparatively low-maintenance my old Marklin motors and drive trains really are.
Great to hear that Peter, haha! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Excellent video with some good ideas Sam. Now to tackle gluing my gear cog back on to my King George Vth tender drive. Thanks.
Thanks a lot Philip - ooh good luck - make sure you don't glue up the shaft!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I will do my very best Sam, going to get some IPA first, I will let you know how I get on. Thanks for the info and inspiration.
good explanation on how to service
Thank You! A fantastic and easy to follow video. I fixed my problem in less than a minute!
My pleasure John, really glad you were able to use this!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks. Give me confidence for my class 29
If you don't feel comfortable with dismantling the motor. Can you dip the whole thing into methylated spirits to clean. Thanks Sam.
Brilliant tutorial thanks Sam!
My pleasure Martyn, glad it was some help! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I thought I'd just add something I've discovered this evening whilst
trying to get an old Hornby Western working properly again, and it's a
STRANGE one:
Problem: Would work fine in one direction but in the other, over a few minutes would slow and stop, drawing no current.
Tried all the normal stuff, new brushes, springs, cleaned commutator, lubricated etc. and no change.
Solution:
Clean away corrosion on the under side of the brush spring retaining
leaves. Obviously the corrosion was acting as a dielectric and allowing
current initially but becoming less conductive over time when the
current was passing in one direction.
That's a very interesting one - thanks very much for sharing this Stephen, I've made a note of that!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
IF SANS IS HERE IMMA BE REALLY MAD, nice video Sam!
haha thanks for the comment mate! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
👍 recently fixed my hornby flying Scotsman ( rod issues) now I have two 0-4-0s a broken Caledonian 0-4-0 and a definitely broken class 6
Ahh sounds good! Good luck getting everything else sorted mate!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
7:14 - have you considered using a light threadlocker for this (for example, TL243) rather than Superglue? Appreciate I'm probably 5 years too late to suggest this...
I just tripped over this video as I was doing a major service on a dead Hornby Class 25 and Lima Class 37.
I’m not convinced that using a wire brush on the commutator is a good idea, especially no a steel wire brush. Apart from any broken bristles getting attracted to the magnet, if it’s still in place, it is very abrasive. If you’re going to use this method you would be better off using one with brass wires. The same applies to the wheels, so there is less chance of damage. On the commutator you could try a small drop of liquid metal polish on a cotton bud, or a small piece of Brasso wadding. If there is scoring then a very fine wet-and dry paper to smooth those out then polish with the metal polish, followed by IPA/lighter fluid to clean any residue.
I can’t add a photo here, but a couple of minutes with metal polish does a really good job, without the wear a wire brush may cause to the thin copper contacts.
Very good video Sam!
Thanks Marco! :D
Very interesting! Love it Sam! 🚂
Thanks a lot Aaron! :D
hey sam, thanks for the video! what alternatives do you recommend instead of a vice, as i currently don't have one?
Hi Sam could you please advise as to which lubrication ( grease ) to use on old & new Triang/Hornby gears and motor as I am new to this hobby? Regards John.
Hi John - I've used silicone grease (the thinner the better) for a few years with good results on gears! For bearings, hemline sewing machine oil used very sparingly does a great job,
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video! Just spent a very satisfying hour servicing a ringfield on a 25ish year old class 37 (which previously squeezed and stuttered) - now runs like a charm 😀
Next up my even older HST. Any advice where to get gear pullers from?
That sounds awesome Matthew, really glad it works well! I got mine on Ebay - 'pinion puller' is a good search term!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
thanks sam great helpful video
my one went so well until my spring went to the moon :(
Thanks Alex!! :D
Sam'sTrains what speed is a 70s princess royals capacitor? Love this channel I’m an addict.
Great tutorial, Sam
Thanks Nigel! :D
I just performed this operation on my class 37... the brushes were worn DIAGONAL!
I think I need some new ones.
I also want to clean my Class 33, after doing some basic maintanance to it, it sparks like crazy when running. However, although it looks like a ringfield, it's a considerably different design than that. I can't even remove the bogie from the chassis, let alone the motor from the bogie...
haha yeah - definitely some new ones are in order! Ahh interesting - I'm not sure about the class 33.... are you sure it isn't a Lima one??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains ... Yes, it's a Lima. That might be why it's different then. :3
Quick question. My motor won’t run smoothly, any advice?
My advice would be to try everything in the video - if it's still not running right, there may be a problem with the armature :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
great video - can anyone confirm what voltage these motors are? I want to service one for a friend. I havent got track or the transformers to connect to the track - but I have a DC power convertor which I can adjust to any voltage
Great tutorial there Sam- would the method be the same for a tender mounted ringfield too?? Terry.
Hi Terry - yes the method is much the same - the disassembly is a little different, but it's identical beyond that!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. Where did you get the gear puller from and how much did it cost? I'd suggest cleaning between the commutator segment with a pin or similar implement. You don't use a gauge to check the back to back distance? Do you have any problems with locos shorting over points?
Hey! I bought it on Ebay I believe - it's not brilliant but it does the job - it cost less than £10 I reckon! Yes, if you're not using the dremel to clean the commutator, then you can do - though the gaps are large enough to clean using cotton. A gauge is not needed with these units, since the chassis acts as a gauge: get the wheels too tight, and they'll bite, get them too lose, and the gears won't mesh properly!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam thanks for this - a very good logical explanation. I have serviced quite a few of these motors in a similar way (except for the wire brushing bit) but I have an unusual issue with a couple of them recently that I don't understand. They run much quicker in one direction than the other. Even without the gears attached! (just the motor as per your initial testing after cleaning). In both cases I have also replaced the brushes and springs. I wondered if you or anyone else on this thread have encountered this issue with ringfields and why that is or how it might be fixed? This equates to the engine (an HST in these two cases) running much faster when going backwards on the track than forwards.
Thanks a lot David, appreciate it! That's interesting - have you tried taking measurements of the resistance of each winding? It's possible that there's a fault there - each winding should measure within 0.1-0.2 Ohm of each-other, if they don't, that indicates a possible fault!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam for the reply - yes I did measure the windings - all normal. The only thing that I can think of is that I need to try your wire brush trick: because there is still a little bit of ingrained dirt in some of the scratches on the armature and maybe these are not symmetrical... further cleaning is the only option left at this point because it seems electrical rather than mechanical... cheers David
Hi Sam! So my grandparent's friend gave them some Hornby things and also an old Hornby county of Norfolk in the blue livery and it's a ringfield motor ran loco. The motor you showed in this vid had 4 wheels but mine has 6. I'm a younger modeller and my grandparents are finding me locos and rolling stock in a nearby auction house. Most things are used and quite old. If you can tell me anything about my class 47 that would help. Thanks for reading :D
Hi John, thanks very much for the comment - yes some do have extra wheels, but they're usually just dummies if they're on this design. If the extra wheels are driven, then you most likely have an ex-dapol model, which are a bit devilish to service! I tend to recommend just a drop of oil on the moving parts on those, and hope that does it!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I think I see the problem which I have, your cog is hard up against the body. On mine the shaft appears to be spring loaded loaded and therefore cannot be fully engaged hence the spinning. Any ideas?
Hi Charlie - the spring effect will most likely be caused by the brushes/springs pushing against the commutator. If the gears aren't meshing, the gear need to be pushed further on the shaft - has the gear become loose at all?
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Think I am snookered as I put a touch of superglue onto the shaft as suggested and cannot get the cog any further on it push the shaft without it springing back
Hi Sam, great video, and really informative. My son and I love your channel and all the videos you post. He's a big fan. Quick question. I want to service the ringfield notors in his trains, would you mind telling me which bearing puller you used in the video or make a suggestion as to which type would be suitable for the job. Many thanks. Daniel
That's lovely to hear Daniel, many thanks to you both for watching! If you do a search for 'pinion puller' on Ebay, you'll find the one like mine! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Do you know how to repair cab lighting in a old hornby class 47? I took the body off but not sure where all the lighting wires go or if you could show a video with lighting wiring? Many thanks paul
Hi Paul - the bulbs usually have two wires coming from it, one sometimes with a diode. One wire needs connecting to one bogie, and the other wire goes to the second bogie! If you get them right, the bulb will turn on only when the engine runs forward! Feel free to email me a photo of your arrangement, and I'll take a look!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thanks sam I'll send some photos I've got one bulb working but the other one is the problem as it doesnt appear to have enough sockets on the motor. They both have diodes one from each end. This is how it is theres a very short wire which plugs in from the silver socket to the front of the motor. One bulb fits at the back of the motor, the other cable from the front light goes into the back bogie. There is a cable then connects from the back bogie into the other silver socket in the motor. The back lights one fits in the back bogie (nearest to the rear lights) as it's a short cable but on the original hornby clas 43 diagram it shows the long cable coming from the rear light ( with the diode)going into the front motor bogie but I cant figure out where it can plug in because all the sockets are already filled think that makes sense.?
Very useful thanks Sam
No problem Lewis - my pleasure! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam.
Have a problem with one of these on a tender which is puzzling me and wondered if you could help. Motor runs on test when touching the two brush covers or the live connection terminal and neg brush cover. I cant get a neg contact off the wheels or motor body though . Any ideas??
Hey Andy - on some models, there's a small wire that connects the metal brush retainer to the chassis - can you see one on yours? That left hand brush should be live to the chassis, so if it isn't, you'll need to find a way to put a wire in, which should sort that for you!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Nice video , very helpful .
Thanks a lot mate - appreciate it!
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hey Sam, super helpful video!, just wondering where you picked up the vice that you used in the video, as I cannot find one with a wide enough jaw, or either it is too massive and expensive
Thanks so much! I think mine came from Ebay or Amazon - I've had it for years!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains, cheers mate! I think I found one on eBay 👍🏻
Hi Sam good on servicing the ring field motor
Could you please make one on the lima diesel motors and the co-co version of ringfield motors
Thanks a lot mate - great idea, I do need to do that! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thank you Sam as I don't understand them
Hi sam, i have a Flying scotsman with a ringfield motor which 1. doesnt seem to get current through most of the time... 2. makes a horrendous racket when it does go and slows down too... any ideas?
Love your videos,
Will
Definitely try a full service, and check the contacts between the loco and tender, possibly cleaning the loco axles - that's often the cause of issues!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam'sTrains I think the connection between loco and tender is broken as it's just one pin that goes through... This was my first ever model and it hasn't run for 13 years after being rebuilt several times... It started to run this morning, going round 30cm before cutting out... It isn't powerful enough to even push the flying Scotsman body. I might have to buy a new one.
Very interesting video today Sam are you thinking about doing some more
Thanks a lot James! Yeah I may do more, if people are asking for them!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains cool
Hey Sam. Just picked up a Hornby Diesel D7101 (Bear) with this motor in it. I serviced him all up and everything and he ran great up until a few hours ago. He will start to jerk, slow down greatly to a crawl, and then die. He'll start back up again if I jiggle him around a bit, but if I stop him from running or interrupt it in any way, it'll happen again. I cleaned the track, the wheels, and all the pickups.
The motor hasn't burned out or anything, so what do you think this could be? Asking since he's literally the same diesel as in the vid just Bear-ified, lol.
Thanks! - Jack
That's awesome Jack - sorry to hear about the problems, try cleaning the commutator again, but don't use any oil on the front shaft - maybe the oil is causing problems!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains could it also be a bad wire?
Nice work Sam!
Keep it up :)
Thanks very much mate!! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hey Sam there is a Bachmann c1Atlantic
Hey! Yes there is - they're doing a mainstream release soon! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Really interesting Sam
I never dared open my ringfield motors be before but you’ve demystified them
Thanks
Do you have similar servicing videos for all makes of engines?
Also what make of oil do you use?
Keep it up, good luck 😊
That's great to hear Jon - hope you can give it a go! I have videos for quite a few of them yeah - there's a maintenance playlist if you're interested. I use Hemline sewing machine oil! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Thanks Sam
I’ll take a look at those servicing videos
Do you get the sewing machine oil on line?😊
I haven’t touched my railway stud in years
All the stock , tools , paint and materials has all been packed away for 12 years now
I have engines from so many different manufacturers
Triang, Hornby Dublo,Lima, Bachmann Dapol etc and a few odd ones ones too
I can’t wait to get it all back again and make a fresh start 😊
Nice video. Great tips but they are bushings not bearings sorry but it was just really bugging me
haha sorry Rob - I stand corrected! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I bought a hymek off ebay, and then I didn't run it for a year. Now I tried running it, and it makes a squeaking sound and i see sparks. And I even saw some smoke coming from it. Do you know what is wrong?
It probably just needs a service - follow this video, and you should be sorted! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Subject R399 tender for Flying Scot R398 - 4472. How do I separate the motor unit from the chassis of the tender? The heavy metal motor frame has number S4565. There does not appear to be any clips/springs/catches. I wish to take out the armature as there is some physical restriction to free rotation.
There may be two screws up inside the body at the back of the tender - if so, removing them should free the body!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thanks prompt reply. Sorry no screws. Jim. Ps Can send photo, but not thro YTube I think.
Further to my last - there were 2 screws to release body shell from chassis, but none to release motor housing from chassis. Jim.
Did you ser that the locomotive in this episode was Bear from the railway series
Yeah absolutely! This is Bear! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
its a class 35 hymek not bear.
no idea why by my ringfield motor is now running slower. do you think i should clean the axels.
Hi Jack - it could be an issue with the motor - try re-cleaning it, and reapplying the oil, but only in tiny quantities! Does this happen when you power just the motor, without the gears?
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hi Sam, bit of a odd question but i just got a brand new Bachmann Toby and he runs really smooth but also really slow. I have to turn my controller upto 60+% to get him to move at speed. Does yours do this or does mine sound like it needs work done to it?
Hmm, I'd say that's pretty normal - that can be an indicator of a fault with the motor, but mine is slow too, so I'm sure it's fine! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hhhm, maybe now I can make my class 09 a smooth runner, going to try tomorrow :-D
Ooh nice - good luck with it mate, hope it goes well! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Great video! Although I'm net likely to ever need to service a diesel ringfield, it was still interesting!
Thanks mate!! Ahh that's fair enough - you're pretty lucky in that sense ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for the super video Sam; most informative. I've gained a renewed interest in my dusty railway collection during lockdown through watching your excellent channel and your content and the alarmingly pained noises my locomotives make when set upon the track have spurred me on to service them. A quick question. Where can I find the oil applicator you use? Thanks in advance and long may the Sam's Trains channel keep steaming!
Thanks so much Thomas, that's really lovely to hear - good luck sorting yours out! I use a Gaugemaster one - if you do a search for Gaugemaster oiling pens on Ebay, you should fine them!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, great video! I was just wondering if you could do a video on how to service the Hornby class 156? If you want to but don't have one I can send it to you. kind regards,
TheNorthern323.
Ahh okay mate, I'll definitely look into those - I'll try to do that some time! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hi' sam do you no how to fix my train it is going so slow and it's comming smoke frome the motor ore the battery plz can you help me if you dont understand sorry it is because i am from sweden
Hi - could you tell me which engine this is? It could well be a motor issue - but a thorough cleanup may be enough to save it! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Sam do you know how to open a 47
I bought the Majestic set and wanted to try and make it dc because of issues I had with dcc
Hey! If it's a Hornby one, it should be quite similar to this! Hope all goes well for you! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Hi Sam. After being carefully stored away, in the original packaging, since purchase in 1986, I have decided to return to modelling and running my R.042 LNER 4-6-2 Loco No. 4476 ‘Royal Lancer’. It has a Hornby Ringfield motor which is in the tender. Removing the tender from the chasis was fine but, I need a little advice regarding the removal of the motor from the wheel chasis. Can you help please?
Hi Sam, nice video and servicing. I have challenge for you
Make a video while speaking in Indian English and discribe your thoughts about Indian railway.😁😁💙💚💛💜
Thanks lot Richa - haha, what would Indian English involve?? You mean an Indian accent?? I might get into trouble if I did that ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains yes I meant Indian accent.
Some motors have 5 cogs 3 for each axle and 2 up top
Yes, some do - mainly the ex-dapol ones, such as the 2Ps and 4fs!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Can you do a Ringfield tender motor locomotive please? As mine keep jolting.
Sorry to hear that mate - the tender driven engines have this same mechanism - it should be the same!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The only problem I have is releasing the motor from the tender
Ummmm Sam I've lost a spring when re assembling
Uh oh - check ebay, you should be able to source some replacements!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam do you know where I could get a driving gear wheel for an class 08 shunter?
Ooh I'm not too sure - if you know the product code, Peter's spares is very good! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains cheers Sam
Hey Sam is there going to be any more one minute wonder?
Hey! Yeah I may do more one day - if I can think of them!! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
That's okay with me.I was just curios.
☺☺☺
Would you be able to service horny tornado or flying Scotsman
Do check my live servicing streams - there's a good chance I did one already, if not, I'll add it to my list of video suggestions! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I'm not that big of a fan of the diesel locos
Always preferred the steam locos.
Cheers!
-Ewan
That's the same with me Ewan - thanks for looking anyway though! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
For some reason when i put my hymek on the track there is a short circuit 😐
Hmmm, are the bogies and wheels fitted the right way?? Try swapping them around!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for the advice?
! Sorry
No problem mate - hope it helps! :D
That's awesome
Thanks Justin! :D
I wouldn't clean a commutator in the way that you did. The 'black' is almost certainly carbon from the brushes and as this is carbon it is an excellent electrical condutor so apart from wiping with ipa or similar it's not neccessary to abrade the commutator.
Eugh... that's one HARD brush! Good it's a simple diesel, if I used that on my models there'd be no handrails or details left! For your more delicate models I hope you bring out something softer? ;)
haha - I've used that brush on even modern steamers - if you're careful, it doesn't harm them!! I don't go crazy on the delicate ones like that though ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Yay an other deisel
haha yeah! :D
How old are you Sam 🤷♂️
OK draper plugged
Sorry for the mistake i have an auto corrector
haha that's okay! :D
supervduper cool
Thanks Jayden!! :D
Clean gear's mortar and wheels for your hornby model
Absolutely!! :D
Im going to use 3 in 1 oil to oil any new loco I get
I would not recommend using 3-in-One oil or WD-40 on your models.
Hey! I'd strongly recommend against using 3 in 1 - you really want some light machine oil - try the hemline stuff!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Why
ITS BEAR
Or diesel 7101
haha yeah!! xD
7:56 hehehehe.
haha!! ;D