Installing A Shift Kit On A Motorized Bike Good Idea or Bad Idea?
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Is Installing A Shift Kit On A Motorized Bike Good Idea or Bad Idea?
BAD Idea in my opinion. More hassle than it's worth. I'll give you my 2 cents worth on it.
With a few mods done early in the build, a SPB shift kit can last for years. Mine was built in 2007 and has never left me stranded. Not a race setup but one that’s fun around here in the PNW.
I think if they're installed right and people don't beat the shit outta them then they will last
PNW is pretty vast…what part are you from? im in SW BC across the border from Seattle WA
You're right and wrong at the same time...
Yes installing a shift kit is asking bicycle components to handle more power than if you were pedaling the bike your self. But installing an engine on a bicycle does not mean you built a motorcycle. If you upshift under power you can kiss a few bike parts and skin goodby.
It also doesn't help that the s#!t kit you pictured is one of the cheap Chinese three plate kits that don't hold the jackshaft in position to save a rats life. Buy crappy components, get crappy reliability and performance. I'd rather run a friction drive engine mount than one of those 3 plate crap shoots. Buying a shift kit, get one that's a one piece "Squared U" shape design. They're much better at keeping the jackshaft in a useable, reliable position.
Operating a shift kit, I have to agree they're not meant to be beat on or raced. They're for commuter bikes that carry us 300lb guys over mountains a stock 49cc two stroke engine can't handle in a direct drive build.
My first shift kit was a 3 plate deal and it never kept the sprockets aligned because the side plates kept shifting out of position. I bought a shift kit from SBP and the only problem was there option for the least expensive front freewheel. One jammed and another just chewed up the prawls - I couldn't even pedal home. Those failures stopped when I invested in HD front freewheels. It also doesn't hurt to upgrade the button head allen bolts (for installing the rings to the FFW) and the allen screws (that fix the sprockets to the jack shaft) to grade 8 hex head bolts. Doing this will ensure the heads will never strip and everything will stay where you put it.
The weakest bicycle gear set you can use is a screw on freewheel. Engine power can strip the threads on the wheel hub making for a long walk home.
Next is internal shift hubs. 3 speed and five speed are near bullet proof and the least sensitive to setup. 7 speed and higher are more critical the the gear shifter be 'centered' in the selected gear. If it's not centered engine power can wear out the prawls in short order.
The strongest gear set you can use is cassette. Yes there is a difference between a freewheel/free hub cluster and a cassette cluster. Cassettes are stronger than freewheels. Period.
Here's a little known secret...
Most of not all shift kit retailers instruct buyers to connect the right jack shaft chain to the outer ring on the FFW. I don't do this. I connect the right chain to the inner ring on the FFW. I do this to avoid what I call "the Monkey Wrench Effect".
The further away the chain that is the source of power is from the seat tube/bottom bracket, the more flex it can cause in the bicycle frame from applied torque. Just like using a bigger pipe wrench on a stubborn pipe fitting. Aluminum frames are especially at risk of this happening.
I understand (or I at least suspect) the reason vendors say to connect to the outer ring is so there's space to use a larger ring for the engine output at the FFW. But I don't agree with putting the frame at risk for the sake of having a moderate gear ratio that doesn't kill the engine with high RPM. But inexpensive bikes majorally having free hubs in the rear wheels is also part of the problem. The widest typical free hub will have a 14,34 spread. A typical cassette will have an 11,34 spread. That smaller final drive cog will allow for a smaller ring to be used on the crank without sacrificing top speed. That smaller ring on the crank with the same size first gear also meant better acceleration from a stop, better hill climbing and better MPG as you're not lugging the engine when at low speed.
But what do I know...
I'm just a guy that rides up to 90 miles a day and gets 110mpg out of a stock 49cc two stroke.
I'd build a shift kit equipped motorized bicycle for sale IF the buyer were willing to pay for components that wouldn't need adjustment every two days. One of the bikes I'm working on, the rear wheel and the crank alone cost me $700.
And the people that don't want to pay that much for two major components are the same ones complaining about their bikes breaking down - shift kitted or not.
Engineering can solve the problem. My father was a engineer and always cussed at the way things were designed. But everyone brought him broken items to fix.
Thank you for making this video! Now every time some one ask me do "do a shift kit" I can point them here.
Glad it was helpful!
damm skipy ...i am nerovous enuff with a 415 in 44 teeth all though i do want 36 tooth after breakin
@@HughesMotorized with into the case of a lot of these motors.it sometimes comes down to the luck of the draw..that and before installing them.u really need to open them up and either. grease or locktight as much as possible .i get lucky some time..human nature we all want more..but 40 50 top end is enough for me
@@joerillarilla8524 Amen. Sort them out first. And I stay in the slow lane. Never go any faster than I want to wreck it at.
What about a pull starter? And I am pretty good on using my clutch
You can spoke in a 12 speed, or less, internal geared hub that can handle 210 nm and weld or attach a #35 or #41 chain sprocket on to where the sprocket is on the hub. Then change the front sprocket to #35 or #41 chain on the pedal side. Then change the inside free wheel sprocket to #35 chain. This will increase reliability and eliminate derailing problems on the rear wheel section. The newer internally geared hubs today usually are able to handle a lot of torque for use on electric bikes. Most use 150 nm to 250 nm which is plenty nm for up to 100 cc motors. Don't forget to use 12 mm spokes on the rear wheel for this.
Jackshaft kit is very hard to setup properly. But once it works, it works well. Acceleration with the shiftkit is impressive. Also, single gear hill climbing isn't even comparable. Jackshaft can climb some serious hills with proper gearing. I bought a rear hub single gear setup for a backup, incase my shiftkit malfunctions for any reason. But the shiftkit is what makes the bike so fun.
How about some videos to back it up?
@@LAHover When I find a way to fix my camera steady, I will.
@@smokinamby you can use your phone camera to upload video.
He posted them 💥
Exactly! Mine is very reliable and the best addition to the bike! It amazes me how many people run them down but i think the reality is that most people are unable to install them properly and with proper components. I would never run a bicycle without one. Imagine a car without gears,. It would be useless.
I’ve taken apart a tiny 50cc 4 stroke z50 transmission/engine. The trans is beefy, way beefier than the bicycle chain transmission. There is no way that little pedal chain will hold the hp of a 66cc 2 stroke.
That's the way I see it too.
After replacing the sprockets and chain on mine after a few thousand miles, I would agree. I know mine does a lot of push/pull when it’s 4 stroking and not running right and I feel like that would break a bike chain quickly.
I've never had a single problem with mine. I can't speak for others but mine is still fine over 5 years and countless miles later.
Properly installed and set up, and used with mechanical empathy they may not be as bad as you say. If you go racing around and change gears like an orangutan - well then. The mechanical advantage of gearing also reduces the forces on the components if used with some care.
Ironically a normal person puts out more power than the 66cc motors, albeit for very short bursts and not sustained..JM2CW
Shift kits are for commuting, not racing.👍
Thanks for an intelligent sensible reply in this jackshaft bashing thread! I think the bicycle engine kits are much more fun with the addition of a Sick Bike Parts jackshaft kit!
ua-cam.com/video/aNj02dH1aZI/v-deo.html
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I get the point but I think it's still more comfortable to use the jackshaft for up and down roads. Thank you very much for the sharing
You bet!
3:54, Thats because you're not supposed to shift the bike gear while the engine is engaged. Not supposed to let the engine turn while changing the gear, you change the gear with your feet once you disengaged the engine from the bike. Engine has too much torque for the regular bike chain to it while in motion. You need to squeeze the clutch, change the bike gear by pedaling a few times with your feet so the bike switches gears, reengage your clutch.
Here is where you can get a similar effect without the risk of failure. Use an internal geared hub for the rear and use proper sized 415 sprockets off of the crankset and rear hub with the 415 chain. Then you have the best of both worlds you have chain wheels that will not lose teeth, no derailleur to worry about losing calibration, and still have gear selections for low-end torque and top-end speed.
This would be best achieved without the use of a pedal start setup but rather turn your pedal crankset into a jackshaft and adapt a pullstart to your engine. I have done this using a 3 piece crankset and the derailleur setup on a mountain bike with on road success running off the engine to the left side of the crank using the included chain-wheels. It was however, a bit snappy launching under higher RPM. I am going to experiment with different internal geared hubs and sprocket combinations to see if I can establish a system that will offer the most universal usage whether on street or off the beaten path. Once I get to where I have started honing in on it I will start video documentation of my progress to share with the rest of the powered-bicycle community.
@Franklin Freewheeler I agree.
@@killacoiler1707 i agree to, it would be amazing.
So I'm not the only one that thinks that these shift kits will only end up snapping your bicycle chain constantly and tear up your cassette.
Maybe there is/could be a way to have beefier cranks/cassettes/chains/derailleurs or less hp motors? Sure it adds more maintenance to more parts but thats the cost of having gears at all in most any vehicle. Having more versatile use of engine power curve for less bogging and high revving may be worth having a compromise not just standard cheap chain for example.
Your best bet for a strong build is to shift kit with a three speed internal shift hub in the rear wheel. Then you can run 415 or 420 chain and not worry about a 'bicycle chain' snapping under load.
As for beefier cranks, the HD and Ultra HD front freewheels from SickBikeParts are your best bet.
@@ryanboyd2599 yes, or some kind of unit that can be attached like a jack shaft kit, but just comes with 2-3 gears of it's own, isntead of directing energy to use the cheap bike gearing and chain. just something between motor and the sprocket mounted on wheel (like a front-derailleur config) to change ratio without being prone to breaking easily. surely there's some simple heavy duty shifter on farm equipment out there for high/low or high/mid/low that's been out for a hundred years or something.
@@Thrashaero I'm not trying to say I have vast knowledge, I can only speak from my experience.
I've stripped free hubs with just me pedaling. While I've heard a number of complaints that 10 speed chain and rear derailleurs are the weakest link in shift kitted builds - none whom have made such complaints will admit, confirm or deny shifting gears under power. The poster of this video is correct when he said "you're asking bicycle chain to do something it wasn't meant to do". Using a two stroke engine as an example and how it works with an external gear set on a bike - yes the drive trane needs to be rotating to effect a shift, but how many riders have attempted to shift while not releasing the throttle? Not releasing the throttle is too much torque for the bicycle chain and freewheel. The derailleur is simply a casualty killed by cross fire. The proper steps to shift are release the throttle, shift the gear (and let the engine idle effect the shift) then ease back on the throttle. Snapping back in to the other can cause more damage than not releasing the throttle when shifting.
The same procedure applies to internal shift hubs as they won't shift with torque applied (the bicycle drive trane can be spinning but at a lower speed than the bike is rolling relative to the selected gear or the next gear selected) and again snapping the throttle is a no no as the risk for damage is the same for the shock load an engine can produce.
As far as bicycle components go, the strongest geared parts you can use are three and five speed internal shift hubs. Then you won't have an external derailleur or bicycle chain that can fail from being subjected to more torque and RPM than it was designed for.
If external gears are your preference or only option, a wheel with a cassette style hub is far stronger than one with a screw on freewheel. Cassettes also have a wider gear ratio range than freewheels/free hubs. I recently modified an 11,50 nine speed cassette to an 11,50 eight speed cassette (I deleted the fourth gear cog and replaced the nine speed cog spacers with eight speed cog spacers). Here's why...
Nine speed and higher cassettes (they're available up to twelve speed) are designed to fit in the same space as an eight speed. This means they are also meant to work with a narrower chain - a bad idea when planning to put engine power to the chain. I also know from previous builds that the gear ratios (with motorized use) are so close that gears can be skipped without hurting the engine or bicycle components. Even though only the fourth gear cog was deleted so I now have eight speeds with no fitment issue on the cassette core, I'm fairly certain second gear will be skipped with motorized use as well.
I bought the 11,50 nine speed for the 50T first gear. I deleted the fourth gear cog to convert the cassette to fit in the same space as the eight speed it's replacing. I swapped the nine speed cog spacers for the eight speeds cog spacers so the 'now' eight speed cassette would work with standard (wider) 10 speed chain. And the 11T eight gear will mathematically render greater speed than a free hubs 14T final drive gear.
As for adapting farm or lawn equipment do make a stronger motorized bicycle, the challenge there is finding equipment that works with a horizontal shaft that also fits on a bicycle. Most riding lawn mowers I've seen have vertical shaft engines and cutting decks.
I'm my opinion it isn't as much engine power as it is how that power is applied. In NY any vehicle with an engine greater than 49cc(two or four stroke) or greater than 350W electric is deemed "a motor vehicle" and needs to be inspected, insured, registered and the operator licenced. The base logic being if it's fast enough to hold highway speed it needs to meet the above requirements. My stock 49cc two stroke shift kitted to a Shimano Inter7 hub carried my 250lbs and 60lbs of tools @37mph in 6th gear. Believe it or not that was fast enough to get me ticketed. My point being, similar to what you said it isn't so much less HP than using the available power more efficiently. I'll reiterate the greatest fail point for shift kitted builds is operator error. Buying the least expensive components and expecting hyabusa performance.
@@Thrashaero I've given some thought and done some research to your idea for the gears being on/in the jack shaft it self. The closest comparison I can think of is a custom made shift kit with a three speed hub installed parallel to the jackshaft.
The engine connects to the left end of the jackshaft which relays power to the right side of the seat tube. The right end of the jackshaft is connected to the drive sprocket on the internal shift hub (3 or 5 speed). A sprocket is welded to the left spoke flange of the hub and the chain connects it to a sprocket on the left side of the rear wheel.
Because none of the chains used in this design are used for pedaling the bike, you don't have to worry about the chain being the weakest link (you can use motorized grade chain and there's no derailleur). You also don't have to worry about your bicycle being deemed a motorcycle because of a gear box being attached to the engine case. Another limitation to motorized bicycles in NY is it can not have selectable gears - technically making shift kits illegal, but I've only seen this rule enforced on bikes that have actual motorcycle engines and gear boxes installed. Your gears need to be a separate part so one can claim "pedal assist".
I haven't located or even heard of anyone selling/mass producing the shift kit bracketry needed to use an internal shift hub in conjunction/parallel to a jack shaft. They're all custom builds that require welding (adding the side plates with drop outs to install the hub and welding the sprocket to the hubs left flange).
It would also be a good idea to use a rear wheel with upgraded spokes - whether you plan to use the engine kits rag joint or a hub mounted sprocket adapter.
Sorry dude got a totally disagree with you I got a Jack shaft from sick bike parts and I had to modify a little bit of stuff on it to make it a little better but the trick is do not use a derailleur use a internal hub I use the Shimano and Fino 8-speed it's beautiful you put a little L bracket on the jack shaft the brackets to make it a little stronger I welded a bracket on the back of it to make it Little Stronger Just Like Anything on these motorized bikes you got to modify some things but man I got like 3,000 km on mine it works like butter I love it so that's all I have to say keep up the videos but don't you bad mouth those jackshafts until you figure out how to work them properly they work great do not use a derailleur guys derailleur suck with Jack shafts internal hub thank you
There's a guy in my neighborhood but has a mountain bike with a shift kit and I have a single speed with 36 tooth with a reed valve and Big Bore and all that and I blew his doors off. Off the line and in the long run without hesitation the shift kit is 120 dollar waste of money
I've had a jackshaft kit with a sturmly archer 3 speed hub never had any problems with the stock bicycle chain and keep in mind I'm running a 150cc bullet train engine with an electric start and an automatic clutch system
150cc? You’re high bro
For the rank shade-tree bike-builder, your advice is valuable. As it seems, there are the more dedicated, motorized bike community that's willing to go that extra mile of education and experience, and who know how to make it work well. The ultimate question is, how technically proficient are you? Unless you have inexpensive access to a surrogate bike mechanic who knows the business, simple does seem to be better advice.
Motorized biking is already bare-bones a hobby. Hell, motorcycle riding is usually not a "normal" transportation preference, even in the low-rain, dryer-road western states. Eventually, somebody's going to manufacture an encapsulated bicycle transmission setup for these bike-specific motors that will more easily integrate into the bicycle chain-drives. As gasoline gets very much more expensive, the sooner it will happen.
Half link chains and a nexus 4 speed inner geared hub i used it and it goes and goes reliable but took alot of extra work i took my time setting every thing perfectly
Can you use larger bike chain?
i found a video of someone saying that they used a gear changer to solve thier imotor 3 from slowing!?... this saved me time effort and energy for sure! You said you don't mind helping people out with their builds. I'm currently working on My Tribyid(gas & electric) build i had my 100cc 2stroke running great and ended up choosing the imotor3 for the front wheel hub because its a all in one set up... now it works great and all but i have to pull the clutch lever all the way in for it To ride at full capacity! When i pop the clutch my gas motor starts up effortlessly but its slowed down to a crawl I have to pedal to get it up to 15mph when before it would go 35 to 40 easy... its like the motors Are fighting against each other thr Electric front wheel Seems to be literally slowing the bike down for whatever reason. U can feel the magnets in it jerking the bike itll make a loud popping sound like a car backfiring! EVEN IF I HAVE IT TURNED OFF IT STILL DOES IT!😢... SOMEONE, ANYONE, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME SOLVE THIS!???
I wonder how it would handle the engines power output if you use a chromoly chain and a hub type transmission like the nexus 3 or 8 speed
biggest issue is the freewheel they give u and the spacing between the front sprockets, thinner chain actually causes less resistance but yeah more likely to break. I got the cheapest shift kit i could find (not sbp) and got it working eventually through much trial and error. I ended up welding the two sprockets together because the bolts kept breaking. After all that, the freewheel itself got bent and the bearing fell out. I then took a freewheel off a back wheel i had laying around, messed with it to the point it would fit on the front how i wanted, and welded some shit together. It works pretty good but i need to true it a little and probably get a chain guard to keep the chain from slipping off. I learned a lot through this whole process and yes these shift kits are a mess, theyre cheap, poorly engineered pieces of garbage that take hours to get working and then break. That being said, having the ability to shift is so helpful even if it adds a but if resistance. I didnt even have one of those big shifter cassettes that give u a big range but I calculated the rear sprocket equivalent range to be from 50 something to 27. Its amazing to have that torque to get it started and then being able to cruise at higher gears and go fast as shit. It allows you to stay in the optimal rpm range for however fast you’re going. Is it practical? No, but I feel like it could be if it was engineered better to last. They have those better made front sprocket freewheels for bikes that allow you to shift while coasting, maybe that’d work well with a shift kit. I’ve never had a problem with the chain breaking, but my engine is 50cc so uh not too powerful. I think they work well with lower power engines. The rear derailleur and gears have never failed me. A derailleur system for a motorized bike I think works well in theory as long as its only about 1 hp (about the same as max output from human cyclist). Whats nice about derailleurs is how light they are as opposed to a traditional gearbox. Pretty sure they add less resistance too.
That's kinda what I was wandering when I seen these kits. I'm a decent sized feller and have stripped cassette sprockets just trying to peddle up hills before. Now that I'm older and legs have lost strength , and looking for an engine kit was thinking that the engine might do the same thing.
You got that right about harder to start. I was just messing around on Facebook marketplace. Bought a bike for 135 I walk 2 mi up there expecting to at least be able to ride it home that was rigged as it could be. Did get it started it was bogging the whole time. On the plus it was 100 cc kit. But I have a jackshaft stuck in high gear because of derailleurs garbage. I wanted something to tinker on I guess I got what I asked for.
My bike is so loud and goes over 40mph.Looks bad ass and tears ass. Almost to loud and fast to ride..ALMOST..😃
Glory Be! Have fun !
I always assumed these are crap. Thanks for clarifying!
I have found a lot of issues will arise with the chain slipping on the cassette as you change gears..these cassettes gears are too close together to allow the master links on the chain to pass through without rubbing..
You’re using the wrong size chain
I'm not saying that your wrong, just that with my SBP hd shift kit, after I adjustment at about 50-100 miles, it was reliable and enjoyable. Nothing went wrong with it ever. My motor was just cleaned up and piped. I could feel the parasitic loss a little bit but I liked it. I wouldn't purchase this Chinese knockoff, though.
If someone started making some sort of more simple reliable 3 speed shift kit, they could make a lot of money.
Right? How long have these engines been around and we have no good way to even have a high/low gear.
@@kjohns1413 Something similar to a Simson S51 2 stroke 3 speed engine to mount on a bike. Although it'd have to be a strong beefed up bike. Since those mopeds can hit 50 mph
Sorry dude you got to use a heavy duty BMX chain one's guys grind on and everything they do not break because I used to be a xbmxer over 3,000 km on my chain have never broken it
One point you forget is we have bigger stronger parts available from the mid drive ebikes
When I first heard about motorized bicycle shift kits, I figured they had some sort of cassette for the 415 chain, not the pedal chain 😂. I’ll pass on that shift kit.
I never even heard of a shift kit before, but now I know it's a bad idea
At first, i whould thank you for an one more nice and usefull video. I whould also ask your opinion, if we put at the back wheel hub a internal speeds hub, combined with a thicker chain, if it will work.
Sounds like an improvement for sure
I looked into doing something like that with a sturmy archer brand rear hub. There are 3 issues with doing that, 1 is that your jackshaft will have to have at least a 4:1 reduction because those hubs are only designed to have a max of 22 tooth sprocket, 2 you still have the issue of having to run a narrower chain in order for the shift mechanism to all fit and function causing less reliability and 3 in order for the hub to shift you have to be able to stop the drive train. All of those issues could be over come, but at that point it would be WAY more economical to just get a purpose built motorcycle
i recommend running a 420 chain, with 415 chain i was having issues but after putting on a 420 chain, the bike has been reliable
Thank you for always telling it how it is and nothing but the truth!
Preach. I try
Normally you have to install a rope crinkle for the start and not the compression and release the gas when you shift and you unshift
Well you made a video about this, it makes perfect sense that more and weaker chains make the bike worse.
Hopefully it makes someone think.
Thanks for a great channel.
/ Per Lidberg, Sweden
I have a shift kit on my beach cruiser with an internal gear hub 8 speed I never had a problem with shifting top speed 54 mph with the wind
PS get a thicker chains a regular bike will fail eventually
The chain of a moped is not bigger. They designed this to make the tourine not the race of 1 and two its help in screeching when you are in the mountains..whatever the machine if you ch Change your speed no matter how it's broken.. EVEN A NORMAL BIKE WITH PEDAL BY PEDALING! YOU DON'T NEED A SECONDARY 5 TO KNOW ITS
Back in the day there was a beefier bicycle chain I thought it was a 410 but whenever I get one it doesn't have the rollers pressed into the links... 710 Kool chain does
I mean CVT's would be great 🤷🏻♂️ so it can climb hills and keep the engine at a reasonable rpm while cruising
The single speed motorized bikes has to have a happy medium of up hill capability and a decent top speed. You can't get the best of both worlds with one speed. 35mph is not a good enough top speed because the lowest speed limit is 40 in most cases, it's dangerous for a car to pass you when you go 35
Thanks you confirmed some of my suspicions about them.
I appreciate it your description and why not too use this thing is great, honestly was about to order one but now fuck that, great video
The title of this video is or should be" I'm set in my ways and things never change so everything must remain exactly how I've seen it one time in the past "😂. I've built 4 and aside from just changing over some locknuts and studs I've gotten over 1000 miles on each without any major issues. Just use quality parts from reputable sources and sprinkle some common sense on top and your all good 🤘😎🤘
Have you built one because I have and it was hard to get working right but when done right it's fun and runs much better and never had a problem with chains or gears !
Always upgraded the bearings I've have a jackshaft on my bike and it rips on a steel 10 speed cassett I used a e bike chain and a 415h on on drive gear side havnt snap a chain or have had issues with tension on them ....get my bike up to 52 ish mph but I do have a decent ported motor ...
Guys the only thing I don't like about it there's no decompression but everyone always says with the one speed oh pull in the clutch and Coast to a stop huh basically during the same thing with the jackshaft
Grand pa said ! If IT a'int broke to fix or try to change it. It'll work self out. If it don't you know were the tool box is! right by the chicken house next to the tractor ..
Preach!
So glad I found this video. My engine is bad enough,
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
I wanted to do a little research, on the shift kit, you made some very good, points, and I will have to pass, on the jack shaft,. And experiment with different gear ratios, for more speed, everyone is trying to squeeze, More top end out it. Is there any other ways to set up a couple more gears , add to back sprocket somehow.?
I'd offer porting and a good pipe will give you better perfromance once it is jetted properly
I love this!!! Thank you for the video it was great!
smart f n man.its just one more thing to break...its asking to break
Good point if you bought the cheap shift kit that cost 199.99 instead of sick bike shift kit almost close to 300.00.
I went through a stage early on when I wanted to build a motorised trike and I thought a shift kit was the way to go. Well I couldn't get my hands on either, probably for the better
Im going to try it out. Mine is supposed to be here tomorrow. I don't plan on banging gears or anything im going to leave off the throttle when I shit and im leaving the sprocket on and im going to put my chain in the little tool bag that's strapped to my bike just in case something breaks and I'm far from home i can just put the chain back on the sprocket and at least get home
Let me know how it goes. I've never tried one, just shied away based on what I've heard. Some swear by them and some swear at them
@@HughesMotorized it's supposed to be here today but it's also supposed to rain for the next 4-5 days but I'll let you know. I'm supposed to get my yd100 today too and I'm putting it on my spare bike
@@HughesMotorized so far it works pretty good! I take it easy and I had to take it apart and put it back together about 4 times before I got it installed
Is it just me or do you think it is a bad idea to have moving parts in an area near your groin?
I harp on people all the time for all the add-ons they put on their bikes...I try to keep moving parts to a minimum, especially on these things...
I would love to see motorized bike builders in the Houston area have a get-together to ride and compare build tips. Seems like this might be a good place to gather interested builders. Comment if you are interested and perhaps we can get something "rolling". Tim
My ride is a Fiat 500. So my bikes stay in the hood
i am on a Skyhawk 66cc did t evean port at all i do wamt 36 or 34 tooth withhub adapter not a rag joint...i could not agree more.
Is there a better shift kit?
really convincing macanical arguments now what Am i going to do with the bike that i bought ,,, its a fat bike and there is no other way except to mount the engine to the side wich i dont like at all
Need to craft a mount to move it off to the side a little bit
Don’t have to stick with a 3/32 chain and multiple speeds. Convert to BMX 1/2x1/8 or even 1/2x3/16 chain and single speed drive and I’m hoping the Jack shift assembly can provide the gear ratio I need?
I completely agree with you, those shift kits are junk... Not to mention dangerous... junk just totally junk
"It's time for another good idea, bad idea...."
No it was never intendid to do that but thatscwhy u buy the mist exsoensive durable parts like i plan to do i figure ill have 4,000 in a bike when im done and it will look like a motorcycle anf do 80 and shift through 7 gears with no need to peddle to take off.
80? Using a shift kit? Good luck. Get video and please share
Great information,
Ok my idea is what about a med drive electric motor of say 1000w running the bike at 30 to 40 mph the bikes running gears don't seem to have a problem doing this so whats the real difference thanks for any help with this question
Bafang Middrive is a lot better engineered
But is it the jack shift unit that comes apart or bike what if we do better chain
@@lloydharrelson4805 I have zero experience w/ those other than hearing of some having issues. Few say they are OK. I do know they are problematic if you don't master them
What about a CVT?
Great for bikes w/ a pull start. The pull starts for 2 strokes are trash
Aye check this out I bought a motorized GT mountain bike right the guy took the seven peace cluster apart and kept the lowest gear for peddle start and used the highest gear off the same cluster that he removed for the motor gear now I was worrying a bit about it but it never wobbles or goes up or down I probably couldn't do it myself but darn my bike is a lot faster and reliable than anything else I've ever built I'm pulling about 64 MPH and not having any issues with the bike at all I'll tell you man you can use a gear off a mnt bike for a motor gear if you do it the right way
Actually I'm running a peddle gear on a 415 chain it works great
I'm still doing it.
A shift kit is probably the best addition to a motorized bicycle! I have been running one for years with ZERO problems. It just has to be installed properly and use strong steel sram cassette and high quality chains made for ebikes! You are telling people to avoid the single best mod to their bicycles. Imagine having a motorcycle with no gears! Its basically useless. A shift kit completely changes everything.
You need to tell the people who race these bikes they don't know as much as you do. ZERO racers use them. I wonder why???
@HughesMotorized i don't race but I use it for commuting with a decent built up motor and its super reliable cos it's built right. It keeps up with traffic and accelerates perfectly uphill from standstill even. And top speed is really faster than you want to go.
So here is where I disagree I know for a fact that a human being Can put way more stress On the chain than the motor can and the benefits are having power off the line and top end by your logic no car would have a transmission
why do so many of these shift kits fail? WHY is it that ZERO of those racing these bikes at organized events are using them? Using your logic a bike with one of these kits would be faster than the fastest ones without one. Not the story. I'm not perfect here and I'm not saying ALL transmissions are junk. I love the 6-speed transmission on my car and often drive it in manual. The differences? Engineering, quality control, manufacturing methods, and materials
Thanks for the video dude:)
You bet!
The message I hear from this man is; stay away from motorized bicycles no matter what.
Hmm. Been building, riding and doing vids on Motorized bikes for about 10 years. Yup, sounds right
Ive been wanting a motor kit for my bike for so long, and i still don't know how i would get one on. Its a fat tire bike with disc breaks. I hear a normal motor won't reach properly due to the tire thickness, and theres disc breaks which is in the way of a sprocket. A jackshaft is the only solution ive seen/heard of so far. What should i do if i cant use a jackshaft?
WELL, I'm gonna anyways.... It's my hobby, and I came for help, not a no..
What about adding a pillow block to the output shaft on a 4stroke . My trany broke in half.the shaft is to long after it leaves the housing
hello my brother good morning desde costa rica
Buenos días!
So why are they making junk? Instead of making progress they're making problems.
Because we buy the cheapest kits. want the cheapest? That's what you get
Hello Eugene,
I was wondering how I woke up at 2am, to go to the store on my 80cc motorized bicycle, and it started fine but then when I pulled in the clutch, it stayed in gear. I checked the arm and shaft, and ball bearing. Put it back together without opening the clutch bell cover, and it now works again????
A mystery. Never had that one happen
its not that hard to hold the clutch while you shift.. ya know.. like on a real motorcycle so you aren't adding new torque to the chain/gears until you release and begin the new gradual reintroduction of torque..
Motorize bicycle riders who don't clock much real motorcycle time make me chuckle
Great advice. I sure wouldn't try and shift while trying to accelerate. I guess that's how we learn
@@HughesMotorized i can definitely see how it could go wrong fast though, and you do make several great points. Youll have to excuse my poor wording.. I had surgery yesterday and the meds are messing with me a bit.
What about jackshaft kit on a single speed bike
Whats the point of that just use a sprocket than
Red Green told me all about if they don't find ya handsome at least they'll find ya handy lol
yup... busted. momma never said that
@@HughesMotorized that's awesome. I thought my grandma & I were the only people that watched that. Nobody ever gets the references to it.
ok but if I Cant Fix Any sprocket in the back of my bike ? since its a fatbike and the Hub adapter the bolts goes straight in the sprocket ?
Gene, don't lose to much more weight, you're getting way to skinny. I like all of your tips, l just don't like rag joints. I always have used hub adapters.
Ima lose like 25 more pounds. I'm still above the ideal range. I hear ya. I'm down like 85 pounds so far. I used to say no way I'd pay for a hub adapter w/ my beer money. Hell I gave up drinking so I;ll use the money for Willie Nelson 8 tracks instead. ;-)
Very very very excellent I like it
Can you please do a review on the hydraulic clutch for the china doll motors apparently they have a new one out with a hydraulic clutch I ordered one and I cannot find any information on it thank you in advance Lucas
I dont think I will. It is just a way to complicate a simple design. I dont plan on buying one
Is there a motor with the drive sprocket on the right side as to skip the shift kit?
Great stuff here 👏🙏
I agree!
Has anyone put a shadow conspiracy chain on a mtb
Any suggestions for a full rear suspension bike that do not involve a jackshaft?
No. The geometry does not allow a good solution is my thoughts.
Been there done that. Shift kits rob a lot of power from the motor. Your top speed is going to be slower. They are not reliable.
Tks
Red Green
Yup.. guilty as charged
I do ask genuinely, and I have watched the video, but do you think if someone were to put this kit on, would a 3 speed be better along with stronger gears and chain
sounds better for sure. still robs some power and provides harder starts
That damn Truth again lol 😂
I try. I try
Great work again, as always. Cheers brother 😁
love and respect