Yes, it has been a real struggle learning the "in's" and "out's" of this avenue of macro photography. My biggest change thus far is working with what I have, I just recently, in the last 6 months, purchased the Canon EOS RP. Now granted the FPS are only 5, but I figure with some work'a'rounds I could figure something out. Not really the case after finding out the whole "eshutter" thing. I can't even get the Godox V860III to fire even remotely close to 5 fps, at it's lowest power and it's a powerhouse of a speedlight. I suppose I will just have to wait till I can upgrade to the R5 or hopefully by that time Canon will introduce better features to allow faster FPS. I really enjoy your insight and content that you create, keep up the great work Stewart.
Thanks Sewert for a very informative tutorial. I have an R6 with a Canon spdeelite flash and I'll have to try and see how fast the recycle time's are and give it a try.
Hi Stewart. I've got an Canon R6, recently added the RF 100mm Macro and Godox V860III-C to my kit. Was really looking forward to practicing focus bracketing (R6 does have focus bracketing) on a spider in the garden, very disapoonted when the flash didn't go off. Spent the whole day trying to figure out what I was doing wrong, thought I was going mad. Relieved to know from your video that it wasn't just me doing something wrong, and there is an alternative option using the flash.. so thanks for making the vid.
Hi Stewart I follow your UA-cam and love what you do. I travel Australia and do UA-cam videos on my travels. I have had a lot of trouble with sound recording and was wondering if you could help with exactly what ypu use as your sound is always so good. I get very confused when it comes to sound. I saw you use Zoom but was wondering what model to buy and what microphone you use. Just don't want to waste money on the wrong gear. Thanks a million mate and keep up the super channel. Cheers Phil
Hi Simon, quick question: isnt a better alternative to have continuous light source on the camera rather than burst? I imagine it would take more power for the continuous light to be as bright as a regular flash, however.
Hi Stewart, I just purchased a used OM-D-EM1 mark ii also with Godox TT350O. When I set up in manual at 1/250 and f8, as soon as I change to Focus Bracketing the shutter speed changes to 1/50 and won't adjust to any faster. Any suggestion as to how to bypass this? Do I have something set incorrectly somewhere in the extensive menus? I appreciate your help.
I beleve I answrred this on the other video but just incase someelse as the same question... 1/50 is a limitation of the auto-bracketing system with in this camerta, newer cameras can do 1/100, it's just somthing you need to get used to.
Same or worse problem here. Internal focus stacking is switching to silent shutter (electronic shutter) and this needs the slow shutter speed. I am a bit disappointed. It looks like they want us to use natural or continuous light and an open aperture.
Another great video Stewart - thank you. I do have a question though. I'm using an OM-1 with the FL-600 flash in manual. The flash is keeping up with the camera at 10 fps. I've noticed a slight variation in exposure between shots regardless of the power ratio chosen. Wondering if you've experience that? Helicon doesn't seem to have an issue with that. Thanks.
Hey Steve, I am searching the net since I have the same issue with OM-1 and Godox V350. Just wanted to know if you found out what the issue was, or if it even is an issue at all. I saw a shift in exposure in one of stewards editing videos aswell and figured it might be just my OCD making it a problem when it really isnt in reality..
@@nickfriedrich3412 I haven't figured it out yet. I plan to run some test to see if it might be the aperture blades not setting exactly the same on each shot. Trying a series with the aperture wide open versus closed a bit would be the test.
Just tried a 15 image focus stack using the 90mm at f4.5 and f3.5. Both series had the same degree of exposure variation, so it's probably the flash output that's varying. Used the FL-700WR at 1/64 and 1/128 power. Exposure variation was minimal, maybe 1/10 of a stop.
@@stevez6157Hey, I found the info we both were looking for in another video from steward: ua-cam.com/video/VHvfMltxYJ4/v-deo.html Around the 3:45 mark he talks about the inconsistency of the Godox Flash and that its not an issue, cause helicon can adjust this on the fly when processing Hope that helps you too!
I see that my Canon 7D Mark II has FOCUS BRACKETING as an option, but I've read that it can only be used with AutoFocus - I don't know if it's true, but don't we want to be in Manual mode for camera and flash when doing Macro work??? Please unconfuse me, thank you!
You used to always be in manual for macro but with the latest cameras it's not pessary any more. The auto focus works great on my E-M1 mk2. Auto focus is needed for in camera focus stacking.
Ive not long started in macro .i have the olympus om1 mark ii im loving the focus peaking, but when i half press the shutter, the peaking stops working. Is there a setting i can change to stop this happening.
Unfortunately Godox MF12 with XPro deactivates high Speed Foto function on my Panasonic G9 and GX9. Only single picture mode is available 😢 No chance to activate high fps.
I have xt2 and mf12 and works fine. I do however have the same issue as you on a different flash, the Meike mk320 clone by Kenro. The flash works fine with single shots but bracketing or burst shooting it disables the flash. The workaround was to cover the contacts on the hot shoe with tape except for the Center main contact. The flash then reverts to manual mode and all works fine 🎉 Try it with the xPro?
Your results show why focus stacking doesn't work. They are riddled with focus stacking errors that are unavoidable due to physical limits of the technology. No software trickery can make these unsightly artefacts disappear unless you deem inventing the missing areas with AI technology worthwhile. I don't...
@@simpedros4766 There is no way to avoid certain artefacts when stacking below 10:1 magnification - that's a matter of physics! These artefacts can be seen throughout the photographers sample images if you know where to look - and as someone who photographs mainly macro images I know where to look, where the artefacts are unavoidable facts.
@@jchawkjr2 It's the physics, accept the stacks looking horrendous or use the pysical limits to your advantage by not stacking and using focus as one means to guide your viewers eye. Stacks fail spectacularly in this regards because they make the backdrop possibly even more important because of the high amount of captured detail...
Terrific video and very timely! Not sure how I missed it on release.
Thank you my friend.
Yes, it has been a real struggle learning the "in's" and "out's" of this avenue of macro photography. My biggest change thus far is working with what I have, I just recently, in the last 6 months, purchased the Canon EOS RP. Now granted the FPS are only 5, but I figure with some work'a'rounds I could figure something out. Not really the case after finding out the whole "eshutter" thing. I can't even get the Godox V860III to fire even remotely close to 5 fps, at it's lowest power and it's a powerhouse of a speedlight. I suppose I will just have to wait till I can upgrade to the R5 or hopefully by that time Canon will introduce better features to allow faster FPS. I really enjoy your insight and content that you create, keep up the great work Stewart.
Thanks Sewert for a very informative tutorial. I have an R6 with a Canon spdeelite flash and I'll have to try and see how fast the recycle time's are and give it a try.
Thanks Stewart! I have been trying to find this information for a while now.
Aha! Thank you for the clarification, much appreciated!
Great video!!! Thank you Steward for your content!
Thank you
Thank you for the great video!
Excellent. Many good tips in here.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Stewart. I've got an Canon R6, recently added the RF 100mm Macro and Godox V860III-C to my kit. Was really looking forward to practicing focus bracketing (R6 does have focus bracketing) on a spider in the garden, very disapoonted when the flash didn't go off. Spent the whole day trying to figure out what I was doing wrong, thought I was going mad. Relieved to know from your video that it wasn't just me doing something wrong, and there is an alternative option using the flash.. so thanks for making the vid.
@damiandovak2899 I know. I even wrote it does. It doesn't work with flash was my point
Why didn’t you use Electronic-First Curtain on the R7 to trigger the flash?
Hi Stewart I follow your UA-cam and love what you do. I travel Australia and do UA-cam videos on my travels. I have had a lot of trouble with sound recording and was wondering if you could help with exactly what ypu use as your sound is always so good. I get very confused when it comes to sound. I saw you use Zoom but was wondering what model to buy and what microphone you use. Just don't want to waste money on the wrong gear. Thanks a million mate and keep up the super channel. Cheers Phil
I use the Zoom F2 field recorder. Out doors I us ethe lav mic that comes with it and indoors im using the Rode Video Mic NTG.
So very much appreciated Stewart. Keep up the fantastic work 💯👍
What flash diffuser you use on this video? Thanks
Suggest good led for bracketing. I have R5 with 100mm
Have you thought about using the Flashpoint/Godox Power Pack? It should decrease the recycle time on your flash.
I have but it’s really is not needed, I can’t think of a reason to carry it with you for outdoor macro, maybe for studio work it would be useful.
Thank you, you're the best!
Hi Simon, quick question: isnt a better alternative to have continuous light source on the camera rather than burst? I imagine it would take more power for the continuous light to be as bright as a regular flash, however.
You'd need a crane to move a continous light capable of catching up to a speedlight.
Can you tell me what flush is the best for Canon 1DX Mark iii?
The godox range of flashes work well with canon. have a look at the V860III.
It's better than Canon EL-1 in your opinion?
Brilliant & well explained :)
I have an oM5 which flash unit would you recommend? Also which hood are you using?
Hi Stewart, I just purchased a used OM-D-EM1 mark ii also with Godox TT350O. When I set up in manual at 1/250 and f8, as soon as I change to Focus Bracketing the shutter speed changes to 1/50 and won't adjust to any faster. Any suggestion as to how to bypass this? Do I have something set incorrectly somewhere in the extensive menus? I appreciate your help.
I beleve I answrred this on the other video but just incase someelse as the same question... 1/50 is a limitation of the auto-bracketing system with in this camerta, newer cameras can do 1/100, it's just somthing you need to get used to.
Same or worse problem here. Internal focus stacking is switching to silent shutter (electronic shutter) and this needs the slow shutter speed. I am a bit disappointed. It looks like they want us to use natural or continuous light and an open aperture.
Could a flash not stay on continuously for the 2 seconds needed?
I’m afraid not. The flash is a quick burst of light.
Shame . Im going to try with some torches.@@StewartWoodArt
Another great video Stewart - thank you. I do have a question though. I'm using an OM-1 with the FL-600 flash in manual. The flash is keeping up with the camera at 10 fps. I've noticed a slight variation in exposure between shots regardless of the power ratio chosen. Wondering if you've experience that? Helicon doesn't seem to have an issue with that. Thanks.
Hey Steve, I am searching the net since I have the same issue with OM-1 and Godox V350. Just wanted to know if you found out what the issue was, or if it even is an issue at all. I saw a shift in exposure in one of stewards editing videos aswell and figured it might be just my OCD making it a problem when it really isnt in reality..
@@nickfriedrich3412 I haven't figured it out yet. I plan to run some test to see if it might be the aperture blades not setting exactly the same on each shot. Trying a series with the aperture wide open versus closed a bit would be the test.
Just tried a 15 image focus stack using the 90mm at f4.5 and f3.5. Both series had the same degree of exposure variation, so it's probably the flash output that's varying. Used the FL-700WR at 1/64 and 1/128 power. Exposure variation was minimal, maybe 1/10 of a stop.
@@stevez6157Hey, I found the info we both were looking for in another video from steward: ua-cam.com/video/VHvfMltxYJ4/v-deo.html
Around the 3:45 mark he talks about the inconsistency of the Godox Flash and that its not an issue, cause helicon can adjust this on the fly when processing
Hope that helps you too!
I see that my Canon 7D Mark II has FOCUS BRACKETING as an option, but I've read that it can only be used with AutoFocus - I don't know if it's true, but don't we want to be in Manual mode for camera and flash when doing Macro work???
Please unconfuse me, thank you!
You used to always be in manual for macro but with the latest cameras it's not pessary any more. The auto focus works great on my E-M1 mk2. Auto focus is needed for in camera focus stacking.
Great tips!! ☮️💟
Ive not long started in macro .i have the olympus om1 mark ii im loving the focus peaking, but when i half press the shutter, the peaking stops working. Is there a setting i can change to stop this happening.
I’ll look into it.
@@StewartWoodArt thanks that would help a lot .
It appears that is the way it works, a lot of users half press the shutter then focus, activating focus peaking again.
@StewartWoodArt thanks i haven't been home for a bit so ill try again today.
Unfortunately Godox MF12 with XPro deactivates high Speed Foto function on my Panasonic G9 and GX9. Only single picture mode is available 😢 No chance to activate high fps.
I have xt2 and mf12 and works fine. I do however have the same issue as you on a different flash, the Meike mk320 clone by Kenro. The flash works fine with single shots but bracketing or burst shooting it disables the flash. The workaround was to cover the contacts on the hot shoe with tape except for the Center main contact. The flash then reverts to manual mode and all works fine 🎉 Try it with the xPro?
Aren't you using the Canon MP-E 65 anymore??
No, I sold it to buy the Olympus camera.
how about r5 ??? r5c ???
R5 and R5C don't have focus bracketing *with flash*. R1, R3, and R5 Mark II do have it *with flash*.
@@BugBobsWildWorld ok thank you for the reply !! no flash bracketing
have you ever considered drawing eyebrows on?
What for?
Great reply
That was not a nice question for someone who genuinely wants to help others and graciously shares his knowledge and experiences. Please be kind.
Your results show why focus stacking doesn't work. They are riddled with focus stacking errors that are unavoidable due to physical limits of the technology. No software trickery can make these unsightly artefacts disappear unless you deem inventing the missing areas with AI technology worthwhile. I don't...
Karl what are you talking about, I suggest you put a bit of effort into learning how to do it 👍. No AI needed.
@@simpedros4766 There is no way to avoid certain artefacts when stacking below 10:1 magnification - that's a matter of physics! These artefacts can be seen throughout the photographers sample images if you know where to look - and as someone who photographs mainly macro images I know where to look, where the artefacts are unavoidable facts.
Okay Karen 😂😂😂
@@jchawkjr2 It's the physics, accept the stacks looking horrendous or use the pysical limits to your advantage by not stacking and using focus as one means to guide your viewers eye. Stacks fail spectacularly in this regards because they make the backdrop possibly even more important because of the high amount of captured detail...