A good tip is before starting a focus bracket take a photo of your hand, then at the end of the shot take a photo of your hand. It just means when you get back to base and focus stack you can see what shots belong to each stack.
On the Nikon d850 and z9 you can set the camera to start a new folder each time you do a stacked series. Which means that you do not have to put your hand in front of each series.
I change the filename prefix every time I do a stack making it AAA instead of the default DSC. You have to remember to change it back of course which I am currently doing 25% of time.
Watch that get stuck in my mind the next time I need to talk about it. Or else I'll try to hard to avoid it, and wind up saying "focus bracking" instead.
I recently adopted a new technique for landscape images. I dial in 1 sec of exposure delay, switch on the interval timer with 5 second intervals, then add 3 image exposure bracketing and 6 image focus stacking, depending on the light I might also bracket the ISO and white balance. I call my new technique 'Timeterval Deposed Isobalanced Bocus Stackering'. The images are crap, but at least I get to use all the in camera functions I paid for! Love the technique videos BTW.
I love this and need to see if I can add some function to my D850 for this process. I recently rode my bike 2 hours with gear just to take one shot and it would have been nice to over shoot it rather than ride back again because I'm less than thrilled about the foreground:)
One of the most watchable "how to" videos I have seen. Excellent and very human narration, explanations, and the reality of bloomin' rain, cold, kicking leaves and all the rest of fungi photography. Thank you. From the early days of digital photography - the first (or maybe second?) camera we used was a Canon S10 back in 1999. 2.11 megapixels.Came with an 8 MB CF card! Storage capacity and battery life were severe limits in absolute number of photos we could take. And bracketing was unthinkable. Strictly for fun. A lot of it was a way of more deeply enjoying the woodland in the area. And many of the photos were just as a personal record and to try to identify the fungi. Got several thousand viewable photos - and many more thousand so bad they were immediately deleted.
Nice balance of technical and non-technical. I use a focus rail at home with the same macro lens you use, but in the field I use in-camera bracketing on a zoom lens with a close up filter attached. As you say, there are so many variables in the field that I want to expose the shots quickly. Btw, the rail I use is a Nisi, great quality and sensibly priced.
Hello Courtney, first I'd like to say it's always a joy to see you films. Me personally started with macro 1,5 years ago, by buying an macro lens. When I saw how small the depth of field is, i decided to buy focusing rack (Novoflex Castel-Q, not cheap but very well built) and I must say I have never regret it. It makes the stacking so much easier for static objects like yours. Here my work flow: 1) i decide which aperture I wonna use, depends how blurry i want to get the background. 2) according to the aperture and the distance I check, with a app, the depth of field so I know the length of steps i use at the rail. I use steps between 1/3 and 1/2 of the depth of field. 3) I set the settings in manual mode 4) with the focus peaking mode I can check the start and end point I'd like to have in focus. I take the fotographs and the rest are the work for the software. 😉
Thank you so much for the explanation. You have a lovely, simple, and effective way of putting things that make it easy to understand. So yes, please, to other talks on lessons you want to share. I'm a definite starter for watching them. Regards, Gerard
I really need to do this more often. I appreciate how "in the moment" you seem to be, slowing down and enjoying the process of getting the photos you want.
I haven't done macro since August. Today was the first time in months that I took my macro lens with me and went to a nearby forest. Most of my shots used focus bracketing. And then you release a video on what I did all morning. Impeccable timing!
I've only just seen your video although I see it was from 5 months ago. Having read other folk's comments, there is little I can add but I really enjoy your presentation and find your approach to be inspiring. Most of my photography, these days, is in the garden but it's surprising how many opportunities can be found for macro work, even here, so I shall certainly be putting your ideas Into practice, shortly. Thank you.
Courtney, here's a tip for when you are using the centre column upside down. Put the ball head and clamp in the right angle position and this will allow you to use your camera the right way up by using the left side of the L bracket, it really does make things easier.
I just recently subscribed to your channel. I truly enjoy watching the processes that you demonstrate and the fact that you also inject your personality into every video. I have been reading up on the method and now that I see it in practice, I feel more confident about doing it. Great job and keep on creating content!
Excellent video Courtney. Over the winter months I've acquired a Nikon Z6ii + Sigma 105 macro lens + FTZ adapter, I'm now looking forward to getting out and using the focus shift shooting mode. Keep up the good work 👍
this was excellent, the amount of technical detail was spot on, definitely continue to share more. FYI, I use a mini clapper to divide the beginning and ending of the series that way I know which group belongs together. Also I carry the small reflectors and cards in my camera bag to help punch light if needed. Love the work.
It was nice to say hello to you at the Photography Show on the Vanguard stand, I find your videos very calming and professional as you sell the art of photography beautifully.
Really inspiring work. I shoot a lot in the forest and never with the patience and determination that you demonstrate. I love your images. You make me want to get out, especially with spring just awakening here on the west coast of North America.
dam fine shots. like your style and the methods used, I shall give it a whirl, I sometimes depending on the depth take the lens further back to give a slight deeper depth, and I am also known for clicking into the tripod legs.
THANKS! So with your splendid help I discovered this feature on my D 850. Think I am going to try it out tomorrow. With 10 Pics and a smaller aperture. Did some shots with popcorn years ago - just ONE in the frame, black background and smallest f-stop. Took just 2 pics, front and rear focus. Combined in PS. Worked quite well.
Nice ! If you buy a "smallrig" cage, you can leave your camera facing the right way (upright); when you put it upside down, everything gets complicated :)
Thank you so much for a great explanation and demonstration of focus stacking / bracketing, and for keeping it amusing as well as informative. Another advantage of focus bracketing/stacking is that you can keep the aperture wide and have the background blurred, compared with a single shot at f16 or more. Please treat yourself to a shutter release, Courtney: all those 10 seconds with the timer soon mount up!
This was very helpful. Thank you! It is also helpful when you show us the equiptment you are using and explain why you chose them. I am grateful that you are continuing to use your DSLR's, as am using the Nikon D500, which I love.
As I often say, but I say it with sincerity Thank you for sharing the video Because no one can imagine the work that this requires THANKS Otherwise, with the rail for focusing, this avoids touching the lens, it's another approach and in super macro, this allows for more fineness in advance, depending on the threading of the screw
I love the outtakes🤣 Thanks for sharing your technique. Love your photos and videos, always very helpful. I just got my first dedicated macro lens, and boy HOWDY (yes, i'm American😁) that plane is really razor thin. It's going to take some getting used to but I am looking forward to the learning process. You are truly an inspiration, thanks (or is it "Cheers?)
Well presented. There is nothing to add. I call it a focus stacking set, that I will focus stack (similarly, my exposure bracketed fir HDR I call HDR sets). All of my camera bags have remote shutter releases, so that I am never without. Mushrooms are so fascinating. I love the amazing, tiny structures. And, mushrooms don’t fly away like birds.
Courtney, another great video, I love it. Makes me want to go for a walk in the woods... take my time.. and look... look for composition in the little things.
Superbly produced video. Your video content and story line are understandable, information rich, and engaging. Is your post-field workflow image stacking done in Photoshop? Thanks for sharing.
Your videos are really motivating. I enjoyed watching your technique on focus bracketing. I'd enjoy seeing more of your videos cover the processes that you use to create your beautiful images.
Another great video Courtney! Love what you do and I really liked the focus bracketing process. Would like to see a little more of that and other camera tips and how to's. Keep up the great work. Texas love and stay safe!
I use a focus rail with my Laowa 2x-5x Ultrs Macro because I have to (there is no focus ability on the lens and thus, one has to move the lens to focus). That said, focus stacking with a manual lens on a Canon 5D MK IV is a real task because the camera isn't recording any distance data (which means the native focus stacking in the Canon software is useless in this instance (that is, without some serious meta data hacking pr using third party software). Also, as you move the camera on the rail. You can get some interesting perspective changes as the rail is advanced.
I use a Manfrotto focussing plate for macro. It has incremental adjustment for forward and reverse. It makes stacking easy as you don’t need to touch the lens.
Love your videos for their inspiration, entertainment and educational content! A great introduction to focus stacking. When working in a slight breeze with subjects that can move (like wildflowers), that's the time to have a remote shutter release so you can choose when to trip the shutter in your focus stack. I love the in-camera focus-shift mode but it can fail with a slightly moving subject. BTW, I've "kicked" my composition a few times myself! Nicely done!😁
Lovely video Courtney. I’ve tried to use focus bracketing with limited success. Your video has now given me some great parameter to get going again, and we use the same equipment, so that’s a bonus. A charming and clear explanation - thank you. I’d like to see a video on focus bracketing on landscapes. Would you do this with a wide angle lens?
You are hilarious! I love your outtakes! Seriously you have some great shots. I'm now going to look into focus bracketing for my next field trip. Thank You! Which do you prefer, in camera focus shift shotting or manual shift shooting?
Awesome short vid about this but it would be even better with a follow up of how/which images get blended to a final image. My favorite tool in my bag for outdoor photography with my D850? My iPad! I take advantage of Nikon's Snap Bridge to get a nice big view of what I just shot before moving on or to even take the shot. I'm 66 and the less time I spend on my knees in the forest, the better:) Also, with a lot of landscape shots that I take there is considerable glare on my live window and I can't see much so it really helps having a second, large window to look at. Its also handy for making any notes about the location/shot. I have also used my Android phone to do the same thing but now we're back to a small viewing window so I prefer the iPad.
Never tried focus bracketing, Courtney - need to investigate some software, any tips for a beginner? Love a bit of macro - Sony a7iii & Sony 90mm f2.8 Macro lens user.
Loved this video. You have a sense of calm about you that makes it easy to learn. Would love more instructional videos along with your awesome image content 💛
In my personal experience, flash and fungi do not go well together. The white parts that so many fungi have over-expose (white out) so incredibly easily. Where they are white, they can be extremely reflective. Even if you manage to avoid that, you are so often wanting at least some surroundings included which will likely end up very under-exposed. And shadows can be ever so harsh. If you use multiple flashes, or if you are wanting only a very tight area, you can achieve OK results. Not saying it is impossible to get good flash photos. But with my limited equipment, it was difficult.
Always enjoy your videos, Courtney. Love your style. With regard to using a focusing rail a couple of advantages, if you don't mind spending some time, are that you can more accurately control your focal plane positioning since you can just turn the knob by a discrete amount (such as a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, etc.), and you can eliminate any focus breathing issues your lens may have since you're not refocusing the lens. The focus breathing is not a huge concern as the stacking software will typically handle it pretty well, but on occasions it can cause a problem.
2 thumbs up for this video (although I love all of your videos) - greatly appreciate the information shared (and more insight into what you do). Keep up the great work! 👍
Thanks for the lesson Courtney I had my doubts about focus stacking and bracketing, it seemed the same to me and as you mentioned, some call it one way or another
Firstly, some lenses, for example, the Carl Zeiss macro lenses, have an engraving which indicates the range of distances where the image is sharp at the aperture chosen. This allows to reliably estimate how much the distance ring has to be turned from one shot of a sequence to the next shot. (Also the Laowa macro lens has such a ring but unfortunately it is complete nonsense and, thus, fully useless.) And secondly, fungi are usually not affected by wind, only bugs crawling around may cause some trouble as you have nicely demonstrated. Often I see this surprise when I am back at home. Usually it is best to shot a few sequences and select the best one at home. If your subject is a flower with a thin and flexible stem and there is some even slight wind, a sequence with the timer function and the mirror pre-raising function would last much longer than any calm period without wind. In the case that there is a lot of light and the shutter speed is very fast, it sometimes works to set the camera to the continuous-shooting mode, switch off the timer and the mirror pre-raising function, wait for a calm moment, then press the release button and continuously turn the distance ring during the continuous shooting. I know, this is not optimum, but sometimes it is the only chance. Do you have any better idea?
I usually don't shoot digital. One of the exception of this "usual" is macro. So here a tipp for people who can't or won't invest thousands of pounds into a system like Courtney's. For macros I use an Olympus Tough TG-6 (I think, there is a TG-7 available now). It can do automatic focus bracketing and stacking with up to 30 pictures, does shoot in RAW, and can do up to 7:1 scale macros, much closer than nearly all big and expensive DSLR macro lenses. A pocket sized camera for the fraction of the prize of a massive DSLR setup, which you also can use to take pictures of small fish inside a pond. As long as you don't pixel peep or want to print larger than 20x30 cm, the picture quality out of that little camera is absolutely satisfactory.
Thanks Courtney for an excellent & interesting video....I have never used this process for micro photography so maybe I can try sometime.... keep up the good work... cheers from Australia 🦘🦘😊
Originally, I had setup a ruler @ 45° in my home studio to work out the focus step width and have a pre--printed conversion table available. But since I primarily work in the studio, it's very easy for me to actually measure the depth of field on my manual focusing rail (either crudely counting revolutions on the adjustment knob or precisely measuring the travel with a depth indicator with a resolution of .001"). Plugging that information into a home made Excel spreadsheet calculator gave me whatever I needed. But upgrading to using a StackShot controller and automated rail, all of that was replaced with the internal electronics. Quite easy under "laboratory conditions". How you do it in the field seems almost like black magic to a simple studio photographer. 😅
Hi. Love your channel and always look forward to your new vids. Please put as much technical detail as you can we love it. I also wanted to see the post processing as you never show us that. In my opinion a photograph is 60% taking and 40% making. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Watching your videos is making me want to try macro photography. I loved the bloopers at the endow this video. I usually kick my tripod instead of the composition.
You probably know this by now as I've seen you using a focus rail, I think one advantage of a focus rail is maintaining a consistent magnification, as some lenses change magnification as the focus changes and may mess up the stack!? With a rail, you can be at 1:1, 2:1 etc, and maintain that magnification throughout the stack.
I love your videos because they show that a lowly DSLR like the D850 is still relevant today 😉and you don't need a mirrorless camera for everything! Is there a reason you don't use the D850's focus peaking when manually focusing? I like to shoot macro fungi on my D850
Thank you for this tutorial and forgetting to the point! Once you have a series of photos, how do you combine them? It would be so helpful if you could do a post processing video.
Loved this video Courtney. Maybe you can do more? I bought a Canon R5 at the beginning of the year and it has automatic photo stacking on it. I've tested it on a few indoor subjects and loved the feature. I hope to use it more. I'll take in what you said about how many shots are required for the given subject. Loved the end of the video😆
Think of using a rail as very similar to the manual focus stacking, but much more precise and less prone to error. YMMV depending on model, but you can often get precise steps where twisting a lens is harder to do as precisely and the risk is higher of moving the camera when you're pulling the lens. If you want to take it next level, then Rollei makes a relatively cheap electronic focusing rail.
There's no need to re-shoot if you haven't gone far enough. Just look at the last shot in the series being careful not to move the camera and if it isn't far enough, just keep shooting from that point. I had to do that today while shooting an Amyrillis flower bud. It turned out fine.
Not to be confused with exposure bracketing. Not so sure about the 850 but I know recent editions to focus bracketing cameras, each set of photos can be put into their individual folders which is done automatically in the bracketing menu.
Hi. I have just found your videos & am liking them a lot. One small question please. I can't see the brand of pants you are wearing and assume that they are waterproof by the way you move around in the wet. Please, what brand are they?
You only need a rail for the smallest of subjects. At tiny scales you want to move the camera to stack focus; pulling focus on the lens for each shot will create a series of images with varying ratios of magnification.
Another great video, thanks! I'm wondering why you don't use the focus stepping feature in the Nikon D850 for focus stacking? Is it because it may not work if auto focus is not available on a Laowa lens? Thanks.
My Olympus and Lumix cameras bracket and stacket, if you use the wrong word I will not know what you mean. If you move the camera on a rail, you change perspective like stepping back and forth. Sometimes it will matter, sometimes it will not. If you adjust focus with the lens, you may experience focus breathing - the image changes size. If it occurs, I don't know how well Ps copes, but Helicon Focus and Zerene Stacker re purpose-built stacking software. I mostly bracket hand-held, with in-camera bracketting. I never stack in-camera as I get JPEGS. There are hardy souls who go shooting peacock spiders (they're tiny and cute) with a Canon camera and an MP-E 65 macro lens. The lens is manual, and does not have a focus ring. It does have a zoom ring, to change its magnification to up to 5x. So, you're shooting at 3x. F16 for lack of depth of focus. It's gloomy, and bumping ISO doesn't do enough, and the subject is either wind blown or dancing, and your shutter speeds are Too Slow. So you need flash. Some cameras slow down then they have flash attached, so maybe a stupid dumb flash the camera doesn't feel. How to bracket focus? No focus ring. Not enough time to set up a rail. So they carefully rock back and forth, not deviating to the sides. It takes practice. At least some of them have gone and bought an Olympus camera. They shoot fast, they can allow time for the flash to recharge, Olympus has been doing bracketting for years and several generations of camera. And there's this nice new 90mm macro lens that does up to 4-5x, with AF.
A good tip is before starting a focus bracket take a photo of your hand, then at the end of the shot take a photo of your hand. It just means when you get back to base and focus stack you can see what shots belong to each stack.
You're so right Fraser! A simple but important tip that can save a lot of frustration in post-processing.
I thought I was the only one who did that! Thumbs up when starting, thumbs down at the end.
Similar, but I take a shot with the lens cap on, so there are two black frames as brackets.
On the Nikon d850 and z9 you can set the camera to start a new folder each time you do a stacked series. Which means that you do not have to put your hand in front of each series.
I change the filename prefix every time I do a stack making it AAA instead of the default DSC. You have to remember to change it back of course which I am currently doing 25% of time.
Yoshida it twice-- "stacketing" - brilliant! The new name for the complete process. Stacking + bracketing. I love it!
Watch that get stuck in my mind the next time I need to talk about it. Or else I'll try to hard to avoid it, and wind up saying "focus bracking" instead.
@@ravenfallsphotography6254 I've always used the bracketing terminology, and not stacking, as Courtney states, stacking is what is done when editing.
I recently adopted a new technique for landscape images. I dial in 1 sec of exposure delay, switch on the interval timer with 5 second intervals, then add 3 image exposure bracketing and 6 image focus stacking, depending on the light I might also bracket the ISO and white balance. I call my new technique 'Timeterval Deposed Isobalanced Bocus Stackering'. The images are crap, but at least I get to use all the in camera functions I paid for! Love the technique videos BTW.
Brilliant!
@@Robert-R
😂😂😂
I love this and need to see if I can add some function to my D850 for this process. I recently rode my bike 2 hours with gear just to take one shot and it would have been nice to over shoot it rather than ride back again because I'm less than thrilled about the foreground:)
I can't tell you how much I enjoy your videos. Very informative. Hi from Sandpoint, Idaho USA
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada...here. I'm sure Courtney has fans all over the world by now!
Very interesting. Would love to see your post-processing work with those images.
I'm sure many of us use different software applications for the post processing, albeit it would still be beneficial to watch indeed.
Same here, basic technics in photoshop or lightroom would be nice.
One of the most watchable "how to" videos I have seen. Excellent and very human narration, explanations, and the reality of bloomin' rain, cold, kicking leaves and all the rest of fungi photography. Thank you.
From the early days of digital photography - the first (or maybe second?) camera we used was a Canon S10 back in 1999. 2.11 megapixels.Came with an 8 MB CF card!
Storage capacity and battery life were severe limits in absolute number of photos we could take. And bracketing was unthinkable.
Strictly for fun. A lot of it was a way of more deeply enjoying the woodland in the area. And many of the photos were just as a personal record and to try to identify the fungi. Got several thousand viewable photos - and many more thousand so bad they were immediately deleted.
Bocus Fracketing for the win! 😜
Nice balance of technical and non-technical. I use a focus rail at home with the same macro lens you use, but in the field I use in-camera bracketing on a zoom lens with a close up filter attached. As you say, there are so many variables in the field that I want to expose the shots quickly. Btw, the rail I use is a Nisi, great quality and sensibly priced.
Yes, love the more technical aspect, or how-to, videos and I tend to lean more towards this type of content. This was a great video, thank you!
‘Stacketing’ @6:29 made me chuckle. This should be a real term 🤣
It is if you use it daily
Hello Courtney, first I'd like to say it's always a joy to see you films.
Me personally started with macro 1,5 years ago, by buying an macro lens. When I saw how small the depth of field is, i decided to buy focusing rack (Novoflex Castel-Q, not cheap but very well built) and I must say I have never regret it.
It makes the stacking so much easier for static objects like yours.
Here my work flow:
1) i decide which aperture I wonna use, depends how blurry i want to get the background.
2) according to the aperture and the distance I check, with a app, the depth of field so I know the length of steps i use at the rail. I use steps between 1/3 and 1/2 of the depth of field.
3) I set the settings in manual mode
4) with the focus peaking mode I can check the start and end point I'd like to have in focus.
I take the fotographs and the rest are the work for the software. 😉
Thank you so much for the explanation. You have a lovely, simple, and effective way of putting things that make it easy to understand. So yes, please, to other talks on lessons you want to share. I'm a definite starter for watching them. Regards, Gerard
I really need to do this more often. I appreciate how "in the moment" you seem to be, slowing down and enjoying the process of getting the photos you want.
I haven't done macro since August. Today was the first time in months that I took my macro lens with me and went to a nearby forest. Most of my shots used focus bracketing. And then you release a video on what I did all morning. Impeccable timing!
Love BOTH of technical dedication plus the artful approach. Superb video. Inspiring.
I've only just seen your video although I see it was from 5 months ago. Having read other folk's comments, there is little I can add but I really enjoy your presentation and find your approach to be inspiring. Most of my photography, these days, is in the garden but it's surprising how many opportunities can be found for macro work, even here, so I shall certainly be putting your ideas Into practice, shortly. Thank you.
Courtney, here's a tip for when you are using the centre column upside down. Put the ball head and clamp in the right angle position and this will allow you to use your camera the right way up by using the left side of the L bracket, it really does make things easier.
I'm somewhat of a recent viewer, bouncing around your videos. I do enjoy your more technical discussion on your beautiful photography. Thank you, Tom.
Photus stacketing! Sounds like a brilliant new technique. Can't wait to give it a try.
I just recently subscribed to your channel. I truly enjoy watching the processes that you demonstrate and the fact that you also inject your personality into every video. I have been reading up on the method and now that I see it in practice, I feel more confident about doing it. Great job and keep on creating content!
Excellent video Courtney. Over the winter months I've acquired a Nikon Z6ii + Sigma 105 macro lens + FTZ adapter, I'm now looking forward to getting out and using the focus shift shooting mode. Keep up the good work 👍
Yes please to more like this. I also use a D850, always good to see how a pro is using the camera I love
Great job Courtney! Your pics are great. Your personality is great while you explain how you shoot pics.
I think you just gave us a great photographic technical word in fotus . . . .
Thank you Courtney for a thoroughly interesting & fun video. I especially loved the new words, genius :)
this was excellent, the amount of technical detail was spot on, definitely continue to share more. FYI, I use a mini clapper to divide the beginning and ending of the series that way I know which group belongs together. Also I carry the small reflectors and cards in my camera bag to help punch light if needed. Love the work.
It was nice to say hello to you at the Photography Show on the Vanguard stand, I find your videos very calming and professional as you sell the art of photography beautifully.
Really inspiring work. I shoot a lot in the forest and never with the patience and determination that you demonstrate. I love your images. You make me want to get out, especially with spring just awakening here on the west coast of North America.
I loved the Focus part in a video 📸 mode 😄 which is everything about 😅 is the Focus+ accuracy + precision 😊
dam fine shots. like your style and the methods used, I shall give it a whirl, I sometimes depending on the depth take the lens further back to give a slight deeper depth, and I am also known for clicking into the tripod legs.
THANKS! So with your splendid help I discovered this feature on my D 850. Think I am going to try it out tomorrow. With 10 Pics and a smaller aperture.
Did some shots with popcorn years ago - just ONE in the frame, black background and smallest f-stop. Took just 2 pics, front and rear focus. Combined in PS. Worked quite well.
Nice !
If you buy a "smallrig" cage, you can leave your camera facing the right way (upright); when you put it upside down, everything gets complicated :)
Thank you so much for a great explanation and demonstration of focus stacking / bracketing, and for keeping it amusing as well as informative. Another advantage of focus bracketing/stacking is that you can keep the aperture wide and have the background blurred, compared with a single shot at f16 or more. Please treat yourself to a shutter release, Courtney: all those 10 seconds with the timer soon mount up!
nice work. i can use this for alternate landscape photography❤
This was very helpful. Thank you! It is also helpful when you show us the equiptment you are using and explain why you chose them. I am grateful that you are continuing to use your DSLR's, as am using the Nikon D500, which I love.
As I often say, but I say it with sincerity
Thank you for sharing the video
Because no one can imagine the work that this requires
THANKS
Otherwise, with the rail for focusing, this avoids touching the lens, it's another approach
and in super macro, this allows for more fineness in advance, depending on the threading of the screw
Great tutorial Courtney, thank you so much😊
I love the outtakes🤣 Thanks for sharing your technique. Love your photos and videos, always very helpful. I just got my first dedicated macro lens, and boy HOWDY (yes, i'm American😁) that plane is really razor thin. It's going to take some getting used to but I am looking forward to the learning process. You are truly an inspiration, thanks (or is it "Cheers?)
Well presented. There is nothing to add. I call it a focus stacking set, that I will focus stack (similarly, my exposure bracketed fir HDR I call HDR sets). All of my camera bags have remote shutter releases, so that I am never without. Mushrooms are so fascinating. I love the amazing, tiny structures. And, mushrooms don’t fly away like birds.
Courtney, another great video, I love it. Makes me want to go for a walk in the woods... take my time.. and look... look for composition in the little things.
Superbly produced video. Your video content and story line are understandable, information rich, and engaging. Is your post-field workflow image stacking done in Photoshop? Thanks for sharing.
Your videos are really motivating. I enjoyed watching your technique on focus bracketing. I'd enjoy seeing more of your videos cover the processes that you use to create your beautiful images.
I discovered your channel a few weeks ago. I really admire and enjoy your work and so I subscribed. I'm a 70 years OLD guy in Illinois.
Another great video Courtney! Love what you do and I really liked the focus bracketing process. Would like to see a little more of that and other camera tips and how to's. Keep up the great work. Texas love and stay safe!
I use a focus rail with my Laowa 2x-5x Ultrs Macro because I have to (there is no focus ability on the lens and thus, one has to move the lens to focus). That said, focus stacking with a manual lens on a Canon 5D MK IV is a real task because the camera isn't recording any distance data (which means the native focus stacking in the Canon software is useless in this instance (that is, without some serious meta data hacking pr using third party software). Also, as you move the camera on the rail. You can get some interesting perspective changes as the rail is advanced.
I use a Manfrotto focussing plate for macro. It has incremental adjustment for forward and reverse. It makes stacking easy as you don’t need to touch the lens.
We learned things on this, so keep up the balance of technical information and excellent detailed fungi photos
Понятно и доходчиво всё рассказала. И сама девушка с красивой улыбкой 😁
Love your videos for their inspiration, entertainment and educational content! A great introduction to focus stacking. When working in a slight breeze with subjects that can move (like wildflowers), that's the time to have a remote shutter release so you can choose when to trip the shutter in your focus stack. I love the in-camera focus-shift mode but it can fail with a slightly moving subject. BTW, I've "kicked" my composition a few times myself! Nicely done!😁
Lovely video Courtney. I’ve tried to use focus bracketing with limited success. Your video has now given me some great parameter to get going again, and we use the same equipment, so that’s a bonus. A charming and clear explanation - thank you.
I’d like to see a video on focus bracketing on landscapes. Would you do this with a wide angle lens?
You are hilarious! I love your outtakes! Seriously you have some great shots. I'm now going to look into focus bracketing for my next field trip. Thank You! Which do you prefer, in camera focus shift shotting or manual shift shooting?
Awesome short vid about this but it would be even better with a follow up of how/which images get blended to a final image.
My favorite tool in my bag for outdoor photography with my D850? My iPad! I take advantage of Nikon's Snap Bridge to get a nice big view of what I just shot before moving on or to even take the shot. I'm 66 and the less time I spend on my knees in the forest, the better:) Also, with a lot of landscape shots that I take there is considerable glare on my live window and I can't see much so it really helps having a second, large window to look at. Its also handy for making any notes about the location/shot. I have also used my Android phone to do the same thing but now we're back to a small viewing window so I prefer the iPad.
Never tried focus bracketing, Courtney - need to investigate some software, any tips for a beginner? Love a bit of macro - Sony a7iii & Sony 90mm f2.8 Macro lens user.
very helpful, thank you. was just about to delve into focus bracketing.
The pace at which you present everything is so refreshing. Thank you! 🙏
Oh, and subbed. :3
Loved this video. You have a sense of calm about you that makes it easy to learn. Would love more instructional videos along with your awesome image content 💛
For me a flash is a must in macro photography.
In my personal experience, flash and fungi do not go well together.
The white parts that so many fungi have over-expose (white out) so incredibly easily. Where they are white, they can be extremely reflective. Even if you manage to avoid that, you are so often wanting at least some surroundings included which will likely end up very under-exposed. And shadows can be ever so harsh.
If you use multiple flashes, or if you are wanting only a very tight area, you can achieve OK results. Not saying it is impossible to get good flash photos. But with my limited equipment, it was difficult.
thank you, great video as always! also 7:30 the answer is 45, I was paying attention in the earlier part of the video!
Always enjoy your videos, Courtney. Love your style. With regard to using a focusing rail a couple of advantages, if you don't mind spending some time, are that you can more accurately control your focal plane positioning since you can just turn the knob by a discrete amount (such as a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, etc.), and you can eliminate any focus breathing issues your lens may have since you're not refocusing the lens. The focus breathing is not a huge concern as the stacking software will typically handle it pretty well, but on occasions it can cause a problem.
Beautiful work,great presentation,so informative. Thank you
2 thumbs up for this video (although I love all of your videos) - greatly appreciate the information shared (and more insight into what you do). Keep up the great work! 👍
Thanks for the lesson Courtney
I had my doubts about focus stacking and bracketing, it seemed the same to me and as you mentioned, some call it one way or another
Thank you. A great intro video for this learner
Great teaching video! I will be trying that! Thank you very much!
Firstly, some lenses, for example, the Carl Zeiss macro lenses, have an engraving which indicates the range of distances where the image is sharp at the aperture chosen. This allows to reliably estimate how much the distance ring has to be turned from one shot of a sequence to the next shot. (Also the Laowa macro lens has such a ring but unfortunately it is complete nonsense and, thus, fully useless.)
And secondly, fungi are usually not affected by wind, only bugs crawling around may cause some trouble as you have nicely demonstrated. Often I see this surprise when I am back at home. Usually it is best to shot a few sequences and select the best one at home. If your subject is a flower with a thin and flexible stem and there is some even slight wind, a sequence with the timer function and the mirror pre-raising function would last much longer than any calm period without wind. In the case that there is a lot of light and the shutter speed is very fast, it sometimes works to set the camera to the continuous-shooting mode, switch off the timer and the mirror pre-raising function, wait for a calm moment, then press the release button and continuously turn the distance ring during the continuous shooting. I know, this is not optimum, but sometimes it is the only chance. Do you have any better idea?
I usually don't shoot digital. One of the exception of this "usual" is macro.
So here a tipp for people who can't or won't invest thousands of pounds into a system like Courtney's. For macros I use an Olympus Tough TG-6 (I think, there is a TG-7 available now). It can do automatic focus bracketing and stacking with up to 30 pictures, does shoot in RAW, and can do up to 7:1 scale macros, much closer than nearly all big and expensive DSLR macro lenses. A pocket sized camera for the fraction of the prize of a massive DSLR setup, which you also can use to take pictures of small fish inside a pond. As long as you don't pixel peep or want to print larger than 20x30 cm, the picture quality out of that little camera is absolutely satisfactory.
Very interesting not tried stacking yet but I will. Really enjoy your videos, thanks.
Thanks Courtney for an excellent & interesting video....I have never used this process for micro photography so maybe I can try sometime.... keep up the good work... cheers from Australia 🦘🦘😊
Originally, I had setup a ruler @ 45° in my home studio to work out the focus step width and have a pre--printed conversion table available. But since I primarily work in the studio, it's very easy for me to actually measure the depth of field on my manual focusing rail (either crudely counting revolutions on the adjustment knob or precisely measuring the travel with a depth indicator with a resolution of .001"). Plugging that information into a home made Excel spreadsheet calculator gave me whatever I needed. But upgrading to using a StackShot controller and automated rail, all of that was replaced with the internal electronics. Quite easy under "laboratory conditions". How you do it in the field seems almost like black magic to a simple studio photographer. 😅
Hi. Love your channel and always look forward to your new vids. Please put as much technical detail as you can we love it. I also wanted to see the post processing as you never show us that. In my opinion a photograph is 60% taking and 40% making. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Watching your videos is making me want to try macro photography. I loved the bloopers at the endow this video. I usually kick my tripod instead of the composition.
A very nice explanation. 😊😀
You probably know this by now as I've seen you using a focus rail, I think one advantage of a focus rail is maintaining a consistent magnification, as some lenses change magnification as the focus changes and may mess up the stack!?
With a rail, you can be at 1:1, 2:1 etc, and maintain that magnification throughout the stack.
Beautiful images, I wish I had mushrooms here, we only get the bracket type at the moment.
I love your videos because they show that a lowly DSLR like the D850 is still relevant today 😉and you don't need a mirrorless camera for everything! Is there a reason you don't use the D850's focus peaking when manually focusing? I like to shoot macro fungi on my D850
Thank you for this tutorial and forgetting to the point! Once you have a series of photos, how do you combine them? It would be so helpful if you could do a post processing video.
Lovely explanation on this Cortney and some new words for the English dictionary too. 😹
Loved this video Courtney. Maybe you can do more? I bought a Canon R5 at the beginning of the year and it has automatic photo stacking on it. I've tested it on a few indoor subjects and loved the feature. I hope to use it more. I'll take in what you said about how many shots are required for the given subject. Loved the end of the video😆
Think of using a rail as very similar to the manual focus stacking, but much more precise and less prone to error. YMMV depending on model, but you can often get precise steps where twisting a lens is harder to do as precisely and the risk is higher of moving the camera when you're pulling the lens. If you want to take it next level, then Rollei makes a relatively cheap electronic focusing rail.
Great technic & awesome result 😎
Thank you. A great into video for this learner.
Great information as always. And, feel free to use my Forest anytime you wish.
There's no need to re-shoot if you haven't gone far enough. Just look at the last shot in the series being careful not to move the camera and if it isn't far enough, just keep shooting from that point. I had to do that today while shooting an Amyrillis flower bud. It turned out fine.
Amaryllis ... 🙂
Not to be confused with exposure bracketing. Not so sure about the 850 but I know recent editions to focus bracketing cameras, each set of photos can be put into their individual folders which is done automatically in the bracketing menu.
Hi.
I have just found your videos & am liking them a lot. One small question please. I can't see the brand of pants you are wearing and assume that they are waterproof by the way you move around in the wet. Please, what brand are they?
You only need a rail for the smallest of subjects. At tiny scales you want to move the camera to stack focus; pulling focus on the lens for each shot will create a series of images with varying ratios of magnification.
Another great video, thanks! I'm wondering why you don't use the focus stepping feature in the Nikon D850 for focus stacking? Is it because it may not work if auto focus is not available on a Laowa lens? Thanks.
Loved your video. Do make more videos. (Pls make one about your equipment like tripod and diffusers)
Really loved the bloopers part.😂
Just discovered your channel,love it and your photos!
Very insightful and great image.
Nice video, what software do you use to stack the images, I find Photoshop and Luminar Neo, just don't cut it, with anything over 5-6 images.
Brilliant video, Courtney!
I would love to see a video on your editing and culling process when focus stacking as well
My Olympus and Lumix cameras bracket and stacket, if you use the wrong word I will not know what you mean.
If you move the camera on a rail, you change perspective like stepping back and forth. Sometimes it will matter, sometimes it will not. If you adjust focus with the lens, you may experience focus breathing - the image changes size. If it occurs, I don't know how well Ps copes, but Helicon Focus and Zerene Stacker re purpose-built stacking software.
I mostly bracket hand-held, with in-camera bracketting. I never stack in-camera as I get JPEGS.
There are hardy souls who go shooting peacock spiders (they're tiny and cute) with a Canon camera and an MP-E 65 macro lens. The lens is manual, and does not have a focus ring. It does have a zoom ring, to change its magnification to up to 5x. So, you're shooting at 3x. F16 for lack of depth of focus. It's gloomy, and bumping ISO doesn't do enough, and the subject is either wind blown or dancing, and your shutter speeds are Too Slow. So you need flash. Some cameras slow down then they have flash attached, so maybe a stupid dumb flash the camera doesn't feel. How to bracket focus? No focus ring. Not enough time to set up a rail. So they carefully rock back and forth, not deviating to the sides. It takes practice.
At least some of them have gone and bought an Olympus camera. They shoot fast, they can allow time for the flash to recharge, Olympus has been doing bracketting for years and several generations of camera. And there's this nice new 90mm macro lens that does up to 4-5x, with AF.
Awesome video ❤ shots
Loved this. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. Here's an idea, Get a bracket company to make one that wraps around to the top for under tripod mounting right side up.
Brilliant video! Thank you.
Thank you, Courtney. A great video
Very helpful. Thank you very much.