Run your fill pipe to one of the cap holes on top, use a t connector to thread in and to pipe water to the next barrel. Then you only have to drill a hole at the bottom for your outlet. Use a bulk head fitting for the outlet so you don't have to thread it. Now you have air release and will fill the barrels completely.
Hi, thanks for the amazing video! I have a three questions. 1) I don't have a 3/4" threaded pipe tap, and am having difficulty tracking one down. Do you know if it would create a tight enough seal if I simply use a 3/4" spade, and then try and thread the 3/4" PVC into the hole - even though the hole has not been threaded by the pipe tap? If I do this, I plan to use sealant on it. 2) Is it important that the connecting PVC piping is placed above the release spigot? I already have a spigot installed and it's at about 3 inches up from the bottom of the barrel. 3) Does the fact that the water is spread evenly across all three barrels decrease the pressure out of the spigot, as opposed to a single barrel or a "top fill" multi-barrel system where the barrel with the spigot is usually full? I have soaker hoses attached to my system and am trying to maintain the highest pressure possible. Thanks again for this video - super helpful!
When stringing multiple barrels together using the connecting pipe at the bottom, where do you put your overflow pipe? (does it need to be on the last barrel in the series, or the one with the spigot?)
Hi, thanks for your question. The overflow valve can be on any barrel. When multiple rain barrels are connected together, they fill up together so it should not matter which barrel it's on.
Hi Kevin. The 7/8" spade drill does not make a 3/4" hole. The 7/8" spade is undersized to ensure a tight fit, the use of a 3/4" threaded tap piece creates the correct size of the hole that allows the 3/4" PVC fittings to attach tightly.
Hi Eric. Air pressure was not specifically addressed in the video. Typically, a single or multi barrel system will have an opening or holes (inlet for water to enter the barrel and overflow valve) which lets air escape. There are also bung seals (small caps on top of the rain barrel) that can be loosened to allow more air flow. We hope that answers your question. Thanks for your comment.
@@SnohomishCD on the sealed top barrels that have to two inlet caps. one is a 2 inch round fine threaded which you can thread a standard 2 inch pipe into. while the other one is a 2 inch course thread that has a 3/4 inch knock out in the middle. that you can thread a standard 3/4 inch threaded pipe into. so using those build in caps. you can make and plump both and inlet and outlet. if you set up the tanks and pipes in one of a few select ways using a manifold system.
You're right, if the bung caps were removed you'd want to place a screen over it. In most cases you can unscrew the cap just enough to let air flow but still protect your water from debris and insects.
![The BEST DIY RAIN BARREL Install [Complete Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/szMxYIKDXmU/mqdefault.jpg)
Run your fill pipe to one of the cap holes on top, use a t connector to thread in and to pipe water to the next barrel. Then you only have to drill a hole at the bottom for your outlet. Use a bulk head fitting for the outlet so you don't have to thread it. Now you have air release and will fill the barrels completely.
Hi, thanks for the amazing video! I have a three questions.
1) I don't have a 3/4" threaded pipe tap, and am having difficulty tracking one down. Do you know if it would create a tight enough seal if I simply use a 3/4" spade, and then try and thread the 3/4" PVC into the hole - even though the hole has not been threaded by the pipe tap? If I do this, I plan to use sealant on it.
2) Is it important that the connecting PVC piping is placed above the release spigot? I already have a spigot installed and it's at about 3 inches up from the bottom of the barrel.
3) Does the fact that the water is spread evenly across all three barrels decrease the pressure out of the spigot, as opposed to a single barrel or a "top fill" multi-barrel system where the barrel with the spigot is usually full? I have soaker hoses attached to my system and am trying to maintain the highest pressure possible.
Thanks again for this video - super helpful!
When stringing multiple barrels together using the connecting pipe at the bottom, where do you put your overflow pipe? (does it need to be on the last barrel in the series, or the one with the spigot?)
Hi, thanks for your question. The overflow valve can be on any barrel. When multiple rain barrels are connected together, they fill up together so it should not matter which barrel it's on.
Will 7/8" spade drill make a 3/4" hole
Hi Kevin. The 7/8" spade drill does not make a 3/4" hole. The 7/8" spade is undersized to ensure a tight fit, the use of a 3/4" threaded tap piece creates the correct size of the hole that allows the 3/4" PVC fittings to attach tightly.
doesn't really address the air pressure build up or release in tanks.
Hi Eric. Air pressure was not specifically addressed in the video. Typically, a single or multi barrel system will have an opening or holes (inlet for water to enter the barrel and overflow valve) which lets air escape. There are also bung seals (small caps on top of the rain barrel) that can be loosened to allow more air flow. We hope that answers your question. Thanks for your comment.
@@SnohomishCDonce you open those caps your likely to get bugs and only debris inside. unless you then cover the hole with a screen or breathable mesh.
@@SnohomishCD on the sealed top barrels that have to two inlet caps. one is a 2 inch round fine threaded which you can thread a standard 2 inch pipe into. while the other one is a 2 inch course thread that has a 3/4 inch knock out in the middle. that you can thread a standard 3/4 inch threaded pipe into. so using those build in caps. you can make and plump both and inlet and outlet. if you set up the tanks and pipes in one of a few select ways using a manifold system.
You're right, if the bung caps were removed you'd want to place a screen over it. In most cases you can unscrew the cap just enough to let air flow but still protect your water from debris and insects.