As you've done one torque box already, you can see, there's always different way, when working metal.. Nice job overall, though overthinking, is gonna be the death of us all !!!! Fun to watch you gain skills and confidence... I have to replace my laptop, so I can upload my videos I have in the can, doing the same tasks yer doing !!! God bless..
And I wonder if any of my fitment issues on the first one could have been alleviated my doing the lower first, then sliding the upper to meet that upper flange. If you get your computer up, I’d love to see your progress! It’s always interesting to watch and learn from the different ways folks tackle things. Cheers and carry on!
You really did great with those torque boxes. Better than I did on mine for sure lol. That cowl will be a beast to do. I’ve already done mine and it was no fun at all. You will have to take out the windshield. I’m sure you already know that. Keep up the great work and you will be done before you know it
Thanks for the input. I am considering...1) install torque box with intent of water proofing it 2) treat the inside of box for water 3) build up welds at holes 4) cut hole in upper torque box panel big enough for my hand to pass through 5) thoroughly treat interior seams with seam sealer 6) weld up cut out hole and treat exterior of panel
Awesome video just subscribed to your channel, it has good quality video and good angle recording, how you get/treat the rust inside the door panels and inside fender panels by the torque box? Thanks
Thanks for watching! I’ve learned so much from other videos, hopefully I can show something interesting to someone else. Good question, and I’m hopefully getting the rusted panels (that I’m not replacing) treated over this long weekend - that should be the next video. I’m testing out a rust converter Coroseal that shows promise. But I’ve used Eastwoods rust converter and rust encapsulator before with good results. Best to wire brush off what you can get to and get as much scale off as you can first. That also makes sure the problem isn’t worse than it looks!
Hey! I ended up using RV stands at several points to support the front of the car along the frame, and the rocker. They’re great because they’re adjustable and fairly reasonable at the hardware store, about $40 for a 4 pack. I knew I was cutting out more than the floor supports so what I did might be overkill, but removing the torque box yeah, I’d want tons of support. This video outlines where I put them for doing the bulk of the metalwork. I basically wanted nothing to move: ua-cam.com/video/39O8l4xC0lY/v-deo.htmlsi=Xd-nSWf2TeqkhA9g
@@evansmessygarage thanks, much appreciated. With the engine still in the car I was worried about the added stress. Since I’m doing floor supports I guess the support needs to be further forward
I had the engine still in for the floor supports and torque boxes, only because I didn’t have the hoist or the space. i took it out for everything else. I think it’s better with it out, but it’s definitely doable. The biggest challenge was working around the transmission was a huge pain. If I did it again or if you have more work to do, I’d consider lifting it out.
I think it was on other videos, but I did have the frame and rocker level and parallel to each other. That said, the 67 FB didn’t originally come with a torque box on the passenger side, and I know it has been in at least one accident in its lifetime, and possibly work or replacement of the rocker, so it wasn’t too surprising to me to find the torque box needed a little modification to fit in there.
It took me a minute to find the order since I got mine about 9 years ago. Part M3654 from CJ Pony Parts. It was definitely heavy duty compared to some I’ve seen on other videos. Good luck and keep me posted on your progress if you like!
I used a copper backer. It’s super handy if you have thin metal or a gap like that. You can use any copper plate since the weld doesn’t stick to it, but I use one of the ones with magnets so it holds itself. You can just search on “copper welding spoon” and there are lots out there
Enjoy the videos. I have watched several torque box videos and noticed holes at the junction points that will allow water to get in. Are the boxes supposed to do this or are we supposed to seam seal the holes? Thanks in advance.
Yeah good observation, and there are other gaps that ford apparently designed into some places like the frame rail bottom edge. I’ve heard that they are there as drain holes, so if water does get in, it has somewhere to go instead of just sitting and rusting things out. That said, if water doesn’t get in in the first place, you shouldn’t have to worry about it, right? 🤷♂️ I suppose it’s inevitable that some water will eventually get somewhere, but with everything treated now vs bare steel from the factory, maybe it’s not as big of a deal. I figure once I get closer to wrapping up the major structural work, I’ll do more research before finishing up underneath and see what I try to close up vs keep open. Sorry I don’t have a good answer for you!
As you've done one torque box already, you can see, there's always different way, when working metal.. Nice job overall, though overthinking, is gonna be the death of us all !!!! Fun to watch you gain skills and confidence... I have to replace my laptop, so I can upload my videos I have in the can, doing the same tasks yer doing !!! God bless..
And I wonder if any of my fitment issues on the first one could have been alleviated my doing the lower first, then sliding the upper to meet that upper flange.
If you get your computer up, I’d love to see your progress! It’s always interesting to watch and learn from the different ways folks tackle things.
Cheers and carry on!
You really did great with those torque boxes. Better than I did on mine for sure lol. That cowl will be a beast to do. I’ve already done mine and it was no fun at all. You will have to take out the windshield. I’m sure you already know that. Keep up the great work and you will be done before you know it
Right on, thanks! I’m super excited to have it all together in one piece again!
As Spock: Fascinating
25:00 - "I'll burn that bridge when I get to it". Was that intentional? Funny.
Haha, yeah I guess I picked up that saying somewhere and it’s now part of my lexicon
Excellent job Evan. Thumbs Up
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the input. I am considering...1) install torque box with intent of water proofing it 2) treat the inside of box for water 3) build up welds at holes 4) cut hole in upper torque box panel big enough for my hand to pass through 5) thoroughly treat interior seams with seam sealer 6) weld up cut out hole and treat exterior of panel
Awesome video just subscribed to your channel, it has good quality video and good angle recording, how you get/treat the rust inside the door panels and inside fender panels by the torque box? Thanks
Thanks for watching! I’ve learned so much from other videos, hopefully I can show something interesting to someone else. Good question, and I’m hopefully getting the rusted panels (that I’m not replacing) treated over this long weekend - that should be the next video. I’m testing out a rust converter Coroseal that shows promise. But I’ve used Eastwoods rust converter and rust encapsulator before with good results. Best to wire brush off what you can get to and get as much scale off as you can first. That also makes sure the problem isn’t worse than it looks!
Hi, where did you place jackstands in front to support car. I need to do my floor supports as well, engine is still in car. Thanks
Hey! I ended up using RV stands at several points to support the front of the car along the frame, and the rocker. They’re great because they’re adjustable and fairly reasonable at the hardware store, about $40 for a 4 pack. I knew I was cutting out more than the floor supports so what I did might be overkill, but removing the torque box yeah, I’d want tons of support. This video outlines where I put them for doing the bulk of the metalwork. I basically wanted nothing to move:
ua-cam.com/video/39O8l4xC0lY/v-deo.htmlsi=Xd-nSWf2TeqkhA9g
@@evansmessygarage thanks, much appreciated. With the engine still in the car I was worried about the added stress. Since I’m doing floor supports I guess the support needs to be further forward
I had the engine still in for the floor supports and torque boxes, only because I didn’t have the hoist or the space. i took it out for everything else. I think it’s better with it out, but it’s definitely doable. The biggest challenge was working around the transmission was a huge pain. If I did it again or if you have more work to do, I’d consider lifting it out.
When you added that 1/4 to the frame did you check to see if front frame was in correct place?
I think it was on other videos, but I did have the frame and rocker level and parallel to each other. That said, the 67 FB didn’t originally come with a torque box on the passenger side, and I know it has been in at least one accident in its lifetime, and possibly work or replacement of the rocker, so it wasn’t too surprising to me to find the torque box needed a little modification to fit in there.
good job, where you get your torque box from? I need to put a passenger one in my 67 coupe.
It took me a minute to find the order since I got mine about 9 years ago. Part M3654 from CJ Pony Parts. It was definitely heavy duty compared to some I’ve seen on other videos. Good luck and keep me posted on your progress if you like!
When you said your using copper to help fill in the weld seam what did you mean?
I used a copper backer. It’s super handy if you have thin metal or a gap like that. You can use any copper plate since the weld doesn’t stick to it, but I use one of the ones with magnets so it holds itself. You can just search on “copper welding spoon” and there are lots out there
@@evansmessygarage Thank You Very Much.
I feel the need... the need... for bead.
Is…is this the best comment ever?
Enjoy the videos. I have watched several torque box videos and noticed holes at the junction points that will allow water to get in. Are the boxes supposed to do this or are we supposed to seam seal the holes? Thanks in advance.
Yeah good observation, and there are other gaps that ford apparently designed into some places like the frame rail bottom edge. I’ve heard that they are there as drain holes, so if water does get in, it has somewhere to go instead of just sitting and rusting things out.
That said, if water doesn’t get in in the first place, you shouldn’t have to worry about it, right? 🤷♂️ I suppose it’s inevitable that some water will eventually get somewhere, but with everything treated now vs bare steel from the factory, maybe it’s not as big of a deal. I figure once I get closer to wrapping up the major structural work, I’ll do more research before finishing up underneath and see what I try to close up vs keep open.
Sorry I don’t have a good answer for you!
Evan, these cars were not perfect from the factory. Your car will be better than factory.
That’s the hope! I’d settle for factory, but if a few extra steps will make it last longer and drive a bit better, then why not?