Barry I got if I remember correctly All Metal from Eastwood way back. It was full of aluminum. Not a 2 part compound. Worked great! But found out the hard way it wasn’t easy to sand! This looks much easier.
it's really sad that Charles will not be able to appreciate this car when done. However, it's absolutely wonderful that you're doing the right thing for his family.
I remember using a similar product in the late 70's early 80's called Aluma-lead. I mixed it up, put it on a fender and waited, and waited, and waited. The hardener that came with the can was defective and i had to scrape it all off and start over. It was funny when i took the product back to the supply shop, they mixed up a batch to make sure it was defective. I went in a week later and it still hadn't set up, it was still just a runny blob. I used it mainly on motorcycle gas tanks as it seemed more durable than regular filler.
You are catching up to me on my 69 project. I have been waiting to see how you address the issues I have found before you, and I have already moved the driver's side vent plate. I have an eastwood lead kit coming in a day or two. I don't think that will be easy-to-use. Back in 1969, I was 17 years old and worked at my uncles Ford dealership. When the mach 1s came in, I recall getting a bag out of the trunk that had the antenna and hood pins in it. We used a template to mount the antenna, we put the pins in the core support,lowered the hood touching the pins which made a dimple in the hood, drilled the holes with a holesaw then used the chrome plates to drill the holes to mount them. That was the process we used. I have been test fitting interior parts, and some of the screw holes are off on my car. I hope you don't have to deal with that. I am looking forward to the next video. Thanks for the details
I'm glad to see work being done on the Slither project. The Eastwood product looks pretty interesting, and I might have to use it on my wife's Mustang passenger rear quarter panel. I could not help but think about the assembly line worker filling the gap with lead while the car was moving down the assembly line. Thanks for another great video.
You could add two drops of food coloring to the hardener, or the same product meant for coloring plastics and epoxy resin meant for moulding or casting. If You choose a bright greene colour, it will show You when it's fully mixed.
Test fit indeed!! Bought that tee shirt!!! Did you prime the inside of the door? I blew out all seams from the inside door, and vacuumed up the chuff. Pour in some RMP liquid into the back of the folded creases, and spin the door so the liquid paint flows into the joints all around. Yeah. Messy. Once all sealed, confirm drain hose at bottom are open , and hit those seams with compressed air inside the door to drive it into the space where water can go!! Rust never sleeps.
Lightly close the hood to mark the pin locations? Don't be such a scaredycat.Sharpen some sacrificial pins and slam the hood. Mark and punch the holes at the same time!🤣 So Travis at Sylvester's Customs does weigh his filler proportions.
Barry I got if I remember correctly All Metal from Eastwood way back. It was full of aluminum. Not a 2 part compound. Worked great! But found out the hard way it wasn’t easy to sand! This looks much easier.
it's really sad that Charles will not be able to appreciate this car when done. However, it's absolutely wonderful that you're doing the right thing for his family.
Thanks for another product review!
Problems identified, thought out solutions, good step by step instructions. Another good informative video.
Nice adjustment on the quarter vents! You’re the man when it comes to fit and finish!! I’m taking notes 👍👍
Looks great I like that on the seems
When test fitting end caps remember the rubber stip that go s in too move and seal it out 1/16 ..😊
I remember using a similar product in the late 70's early 80's called Aluma-lead. I mixed it up, put it on a fender and waited, and waited, and waited. The hardener that came with the can was defective and i had to scrape it all off and start over. It was funny when i took the product back to the supply shop, they mixed up a batch to make sure it was defective. I went in a week later and it still hadn't set up, it was still just a runny blob. I used it mainly on motorcycle gas tanks as it seemed more durable than regular filler.
Good job
You are catching up to me on my 69 project. I have been waiting to see how you address the issues I have found before you, and I have already moved the driver's side vent plate. I have an eastwood lead kit coming in a day or two. I don't think that will be easy-to-use. Back in 1969, I was 17 years old and worked at my uncles Ford dealership. When the mach 1s came in, I recall getting a bag out of the trunk that had the antenna and hood
pins in it. We used a template to mount the antenna, we put the pins in the core support,lowered the hood touching the pins which made a dimple in the hood, drilled the holes with a holesaw then used the chrome plates to drill the holes to mount them. That was the process we used. I have been test fitting interior parts, and some of the screw holes are off on my car. I hope you don't have to deal with that. I am looking forward to the next video. Thanks for the details
I'm glad to see work being done on the Slither project. The Eastwood product looks pretty interesting, and I might have to use it on my wife's Mustang passenger rear quarter panel. I could not help but think about the assembly line worker filling the gap with lead while the car was moving down the assembly line. Thanks for another great video.
I've dealt with bronze filler in those seams on all cars, but wait, that was back in the early 60's.
You could add two drops of food coloring to the hardener, or the same product meant for coloring plastics and epoxy resin meant for moulding or casting. If You choose a bright greene colour, it will show You when it's fully mixed.
👍
Details matter like from Reacher? Good video as always
Test fit indeed!! Bought that tee shirt!!! Did you prime the inside of the door? I blew out all seams from the inside door, and vacuumed up the chuff. Pour in some RMP liquid into the back of the folded creases, and spin the door so the liquid paint flows into the joints all around. Yeah. Messy. Once all sealed, confirm drain hose at bottom are open , and hit those seams with compressed air inside the door to drive it into the space where water can go!! Rust never sleeps.
I will add paint to the seams.
One little low spot will make it look lie a "Bullseye" in your finished painted panel.
Yep. That’s why it’s important to do it right.
sanding contour with 100 grit sandpaper ?
Yep. I always start with 100 grit. This is just the first round.
14.00 in, why not use mm??
You can if you want to. Your choice.
@@JoDaddysGarage Agree, but mm is a better choise :- )
Lightly close the hood to mark the pin locations? Don't be such a scaredycat.Sharpen some sacrificial pins and slam the hood. Mark and punch the holes at the same time!🤣 So Travis at Sylvester's Customs does weigh his filler proportions.
😂