i often freeze 3 gallons at a time in those cheap tupperware containers you can get at walmart. that's makes a huge ice block. bet it would drop the temps another 10 or 20 degrees. here's a link to my quick video on making these ice-blocks (with rope handles frozen into them). the block is 20 to 25 pounds. ua-cam.com/video/jprPmM834Yg/v-deo.html
@@desertsun02 Cool! Can you do this in this latest evap cooler and record the temps? Are you serious . . . "10 or 20 degrees"? (BTW, I'm in a similar climate so I've already started to build this. Thanks.)
@M. H. Ploni sure, the ice blocks can cool the water quite a bit cooler and then you've got evap cooling along with conduction cooling. the ice is only temporary but it's good for a blast of even cooler air.
@@desertsun02 Is there any specific reason why the vertical PVC pipe connecting to the horizontal PVC sprinkler pipe must be PVC? Wouldn't a vinyl tube also work (if it's a correct diameter)?
@M. H. Ploni you could use clear vinyl tubing connected to the top piece of pvc if you want to. i considered that but thought it would work better and be more stable if i used pvc.
I would freeze water in water in 1 gallon jogs and add them to the water as a reusable ice source. When the ice in the jugs melts, the jugs can be removed and refrozen to be used again. Great Video ! Definitely needs the moving dolly from Harbor Freight to move all that water weight . Great run-time though. 16 hours ! All day cooling ! over 120 pounds of water though. Pretty heavy to move. Beats paying $500.00 or more for a full size indoor swamp cooler (if they can still be found). That was last year's price here in central New Mexico.
This is AWESOME!! I built a version of your box fan cooler last summer and used it pretty much every day to cool my garage. I did find that the design could be improved - especially when it came to having some water spray on top or into the fan. Having a bit of water near the switch made me nervous, but I have to say I never had any issues and like I said, I ran - and still run, the cooler almost every day. With this new design, you've completely eliminated this problem. I can't wait to build this. One other problem I had with the 2021 design is that the fan would tilt backwards into the PVC/pad section because it doesn't have any feet in back. To fix this I attached a 2x4's vertically on each side that are about the same height as the fan. These not only help keep the fan from tilting back, they also block any air coming in on the sides. With this new design, these 2x4's could be attached to the board going across the large tote.
hi. yes, having the feet on the fan is pretty important. especially important on the newer fans (because they're making them so thin and lightweight these days). i wish they would start making them thicker and heavier like they used to so they would have the added stability. the 2x4 idea sounds like a good remedy. i never had the water issue. this unit is a great cooler (and the first one that i made with a honeycomb pad).
hi. sounds like a plan. (and you've got plenty of room in the tote to add the ice too. (maybe a large block frozen in a bucket) that could last for hours.
Ok, here's what we're thinking of doing: We want to create a 2-stage evap cooler. We've got a MasterCool-type evap (so, pads on one incoming side, not a typical box with four sides of pads). We're thinking of hooking up a heat exchanger IN FRONT OF the pads, and running the water from the reservoir through the heat exchanger first, then it goes to the dripping tube and drips onto the pad. So basically taking your indirect evap module, putting it in front of the intake side, thereby cooling the air (via indirect evap) BEFORE it goes through the wet pad. And using the same water, the same pump, just running the water from the reservoir through the heat exchanger before dripping it down through the pad. The heat exchangers you use in the video from a few weeks ago might be under-sized for our MasterCool (which blows 5500cfu/min) so we figure we need a more massive heat exchanger, like 2" thick or so. Much more expensive. And the diameter of the tubing inside is like 1", versus the 3/8" that connects to the standard evap pump. Will this cause a problem? Or maybe it just takes a little while for the heat exchanger to fill with water and come out the other end. Trying to think of how to connect the 3/8" outlet from the pump to the 1" diameter heat exchanger. I worry the heat exchanger will have air pockets. Thoughts? Maybe you could hook it up and tell us if it will work? Just your indirect evap in front of the evap you've built here.
Three things: 1. Why bring 84°F air inside constantly while you're cooling the air inside? Just close the door and cool the indoor air as it itself is cooled. 2. Won't the PVC also need to cleaned from possible mold/mildew build-up? Possibly by running a water/bleach solution through it on occasion? Certainly drying it thoroughly after each use. 3. I wonder if cut pieces of natural loofah sandwiched between the plastic grating might work also. Thoughts?
hi. since these types of systems cool using evaporation they need a flow of air. if you didn't have that it would get too humid in the room. the pvc never seems to have a mold issue. that issue can happen with the pad if you don't dry it out from time to time. the best thing to do when you're done using the unit is to shut the pump off and run the fan for a while until the pad is totally dry. i had never thought of using loofah. i'll have to think about it.
@@desertsun02 Thanks, ds02. And while I'm thinking about this (kind of gnaws at you but still fun, no?), why not use vinyl tubing (a thicker variety perhaps) instead of the PVC to direct the water onto the pad? Cheaper, less work.
This is perfect and just in time! Have you considered adding a floater valve? Also, what would you say is the best way to reduce the dripping noise? Last thing: can I put the pad after the fan? I would like to put a filter behind as well. Thanks!
hi there. one way to stop the dripping sound is to attach a piece of plastic sheeting under the pad (a piece of old shower curtain would work). it gives the water something to run down so it doesn't drop into the water. another way is to buy a roll of window screen, ball it up and drop it into the water. that works amazingly well. the water hits the window screen and it massively deadens the sound. note that the dripping is not as loud as it sounds in the video. its true sound is closer to the sound of those indoor water features (small waterfalls) you can buy. an example of how the window screen works can be seen in one of my previous videos. i used the screen in my 'pad-less evap cooler/humidifier using a trash can' video. the unit in that video has about 100 water streams but with the screen you almost can't even hear them. here's the link ua-cam.com/video/F2eQV-95eUg/v-deo.html
i wouldn't put the pad in front of the fan. never seems to work right. it just blocks most of the airflow. i haven't tried a floater value but it sounds like a good idea.
Do you have a well? If so, would you consider making an open loop system, then water your veggies and fruit? I've always wanted to do a closed loop but a "semi" geothermal. Idk if it makes sense, but I would run 1500 frrt of 3/4 loops under ground, then return to a hydronic unit that would blow out the chill from the water, return under ground, and chill back down by the time it returns. I once killed a compost pile by coiling about 200ft of water hose in it, to extract the heat, lol. It worked for a few minutes, then the water would be too cold by the time it returned. Bigger pile, and more hose would fix this, but I felt like an idiot.
hi. unfortunately, i don't have a well. if I did I'd probably run that water thru a radiator and back down the well. water from those can be cool enough to use with an AC air cooler (with radiator). i've got a couple of vids on those too.
hi there. yes indeed. the drier days and climates give you the biggest temp drops. they work decent in semi wet/dry areas too. they struggle if it's 70%-90%.
hi there. they both have their pluses and minuses. the main thing to consider is that they are 2 different types of cooling. this generates its own cooling thru evaporation. it cools the water and the air. the radiator coolers use cold water source (sometimes ice based) to generate the cold air. those don't add any humidity and don't need any ventilation, but this evap air cooler doesn't even need a cold-water source (because it cools the water itself). they both cool a room but just in different ways 🙂
@@desertsun02 Could you use a fish tank pump for this project, or is that too small? I have to go to the garden centers and look for a pond pump, that would be about the right size?
hi. any water pump that is between 190 gph and 240-250 gph should work well. some of them have a way to slow down the flow so you might be able to get a bigger one and then set it on a lower speed
hi there. you can get the pad at the home stores. i got the pad at home depot. cost about 18 dollars. i just saw that they have a 18" x 20" one for 19 dollars. it's a rigid media evap cooling pad.
hi. the main thing other than standard ac would be some sort of air cooler that uses a heat exchanger so it won't add humidity. maybe pair it with some sort of low power dehumidifier. getting rid of humidity is a challenge
Hey, let's add ice and see what kind of temps we can get!
i often freeze 3 gallons at a time in those cheap tupperware containers you can get at walmart. that's makes a huge ice block. bet it would drop the temps another 10 or 20 degrees. here's a link to my quick video on making these ice-blocks (with rope handles frozen into them). the block is 20 to 25 pounds. ua-cam.com/video/jprPmM834Yg/v-deo.html
@@desertsun02 Cool! Can you do this in this latest evap cooler and record the temps? Are you serious . . . "10 or 20 degrees"? (BTW, I'm in a similar climate so I've already started to build this. Thanks.)
@M. H. Ploni sure, the ice blocks can cool the water quite a bit cooler and then you've got evap cooling along with conduction cooling. the ice is only temporary but it's good for a blast of even cooler air.
@@desertsun02 Is there any specific reason why the vertical PVC pipe connecting to the horizontal PVC sprinkler pipe must be PVC? Wouldn't a vinyl tube also work (if it's a correct diameter)?
@M. H. Ploni you could use clear vinyl tubing connected to the top piece of pvc if you want to. i considered that but thought it would work better and be more stable if i used pvc.
I would freeze water in water in 1 gallon jogs and add them to the water as a reusable ice source. When the ice in the jugs melts, the jugs can be removed and refrozen to be used again.
Great Video ! Definitely needs the moving dolly from Harbor Freight to move all that water weight . Great run-time though. 16 hours ! All day cooling ! over 120 pounds of water though. Pretty heavy to move.
Beats paying $500.00 or more for a full size indoor swamp cooler (if they can still be found). That was last year's price here in central New Mexico.
That sound of the fan and dripping water is so sleep inducing. Thx for the video.
you're welcome
This is AWESOME!! I built a version of your box fan cooler last summer and used it pretty much every day to cool my garage. I did find that the design could be improved - especially when it came to having some water spray on top or into the fan. Having a bit of water near the switch made me nervous, but I have to say I never had any issues and like I said, I ran - and still run, the cooler almost every day. With this new design, you've completely eliminated this problem. I can't wait to build this. One other problem I had with the 2021 design is that the fan would tilt backwards into the PVC/pad section because it doesn't have any feet in back. To fix this I attached a 2x4's vertically on each side that are about the same height as the fan. These not only help keep the fan from tilting back, they also block any air coming in on the sides. With this new design, these 2x4's could be attached to the board going across the large tote.
hi. yes, having the feet on the fan is pretty important. especially important on the newer fans (because they're making them so thin and lightweight these days). i wish they would start making them thicker and heavier like they used to so they would have the added stability. the 2x4 idea sounds like a good remedy. i never had the water issue. this unit is a great cooler (and the first one that i made with a honeycomb pad).
Awesome! Drop some ice in your bucket and it will freeze you out if you are up close.
hi. sounds like a plan. (and you've got plenty of room in the tote to add the ice too. (maybe a large block frozen in a bucket) that could last for hours.
I love thinking about this stuff.
Ok, here's what we're thinking of doing: We want to create a 2-stage evap cooler. We've got a MasterCool-type evap (so, pads on one incoming side, not a typical box with four sides of pads). We're thinking of hooking up a heat exchanger IN FRONT OF the pads, and running the water from the reservoir through the heat exchanger first, then it goes to the dripping tube and drips onto the pad. So basically taking your indirect evap module, putting it in front of the intake side, thereby cooling the air (via indirect evap) BEFORE it goes through the wet pad. And using the same water, the same pump, just running the water from the reservoir through the heat exchanger before dripping it down through the pad.
The heat exchangers you use in the video from a few weeks ago might be under-sized for our MasterCool (which blows 5500cfu/min) so we figure we need a more massive heat exchanger, like 2" thick or so. Much more expensive. And the diameter of the tubing inside is like 1", versus the 3/8" that connects to the standard evap pump. Will this cause a problem? Or maybe it just takes a little while for the heat exchanger to fill with water and come out the other end. Trying to think of how to connect the 3/8" outlet from the pump to the 1" diameter heat exchanger. I worry the heat exchanger will have air pockets.
Thoughts? Maybe you could hook it up and tell us if it will work? Just your indirect evap in front of the evap you've built here.
What about a compact, portable desalination kit? That would be awesome. I saw a couple videos of guys making them, but id like to see your take.
Three things:
1. Why bring 84°F air inside constantly while you're cooling the air inside? Just close the door and cool the indoor air as it itself is cooled.
2. Won't the PVC also need to cleaned from possible mold/mildew build-up? Possibly by running a water/bleach solution through it on occasion? Certainly drying it thoroughly after each use.
3. I wonder if cut pieces of natural loofah sandwiched between the plastic grating might work also. Thoughts?
hi. since these types of systems cool using evaporation they need a flow of air. if you didn't have that it would get too humid in the room. the pvc never seems to have a mold issue. that issue can happen with the pad if you don't dry it out from time to time. the best thing to do when you're done using the unit is to shut the pump off and run the fan for a while until the pad is totally dry. i had never thought of using loofah. i'll have to think about it.
@@desertsun02 Thanks, ds02. And while I'm thinking about this (kind of gnaws at you but still fun, no?), why not use vinyl tubing (a thicker variety perhaps) instead of the PVC to direct the water onto the pad? Cheaper, less work.
@slackjaw Thanks. I'll have a look.
How does this version compare to the Box Fan with Polyester Foam version?
This is perfect and just in time!
Have you considered adding a floater valve? Also, what would you say is the best way to reduce the dripping noise?
Last thing: can I put the pad after the fan? I would like to put a filter behind as well.
Thanks!
hi there. one way to stop the dripping sound is to attach a piece of plastic sheeting under the pad (a piece of old shower curtain would work). it gives the water something to run down so it doesn't drop into the water. another way is to buy a roll of window screen, ball it up and drop it into the water. that works amazingly well. the water hits the window screen and it massively deadens the sound. note that the dripping is not as loud as it sounds in the video. its true sound is closer to the sound of those indoor water features (small waterfalls) you can buy. an example of how the window screen works can be seen in one of my previous videos. i used the screen in my 'pad-less evap cooler/humidifier using a trash can' video. the unit in that video has about 100 water streams but with the screen you almost can't even hear them. here's the link ua-cam.com/video/F2eQV-95eUg/v-deo.html
i wouldn't put the pad in front of the fan. never seems to work right. it just blocks most of the airflow. i haven't tried a floater value but it sounds like a good idea.
My chickens have demanded we make one for them!! It's hot in Texas!
go for it! they'll love it 😎
great build
thanks ✔
Do you have a well? If so, would you consider making an open loop system, then water your veggies and fruit?
I've always wanted to do a closed loop but a "semi" geothermal. Idk if it makes sense, but I would run 1500 frrt of 3/4 loops under ground, then return to a hydronic unit that would blow out the chill from the water, return under ground, and chill back down by the time it returns.
I once killed a compost pile by coiling about 200ft of water hose in it, to extract the heat, lol. It worked for a few minutes, then the water would be too cold by the time it returned. Bigger pile, and more hose would fix this, but I felt like an idiot.
hi. unfortunately, i don't have a well. if I did I'd probably run that water thru a radiator and back down the well. water from those can be cool enough to use with an AC air cooler (with radiator). i've got a couple of vids on those too.
Don't get caught returning water to the aquifer.
Do these work best in less humid environments?
hi there. yes indeed. the drier days and climates give you the biggest temp drops. they work decent in semi wet/dry areas too. they struggle if it's 70%-90%.
Good job 👍
Can I do this with all windows closed? Will the temp still be low with all windows closed? Thank you!
hi. if you leave all the windows closed the humidity will build up. these need cross-ventilation to work well.
Man your a friccking genius.
hi there. glad you like it!
Is this better than the radiator air conditioner you did a while back. Which one is the best for a small room?
hi there. they both have their pluses and minuses. the main thing to consider is that they are 2 different types of cooling. this generates its own cooling thru evaporation. it cools the water and the air. the radiator coolers use cold water source (sometimes ice based) to generate the cold air. those don't add any humidity and don't need any ventilation, but this evap air cooler doesn't even need a cold-water source (because it cools the water itself). they both cool a room but just in different ways 🙂
Do you have to open a door or window or can you just run it in a room with the doors and windows shut?
hi. you have to have some kind of ventilation so the humidity does not build up. cross ventilation is probably the best.
Hi can you make split type ac diy with housing like a split type aircon
hi .i'll look into it
Wow, next year when my bills are paid i might just get hooked up to our local power grid again, so i can make that!
What size pump is it?
hi. it moves 900l/hr. (about 237 gph). a 200gph one would work too
@@desertsun02
Could you use a fish tank pump for this project, or is that too small?
I have to go to the garden centers and look for a pond pump, that would be about the right size?
hi. any water pump that is between 190 gph and 240-250 gph should work well. some of them have a way to slow down the flow so you might be able to get a bigger one and then set it on a lower speed
@@desertsun02
Thank you very much. That helps me shop more precisely for the product!
Wow great nice job
Thank you
Genius!
thanks! 🙂👍
Good video , thanks for sharing , God bless !
Thanks, you too!
Where would one get the "Pad"? And what exactly is it called? A solar rig for water pump and a fan would be nice. Slick. Best
hi there. you can get the pad at the home stores. i got the pad at home depot. cost about 18 dollars. i just saw that they have a 18" x 20" one for 19 dollars. it's a rigid media evap cooling pad.
@@desertsun02 Thnx
Do you have any recommendations for cooling in high humidity areas? I'm in swamp Arkansas. 😞
hi. the main thing other than standard ac would be some sort of air cooler that uses a heat exchanger so it won't add humidity. maybe pair it with some sort of low power dehumidifier. getting rid of humidity is a challenge
@@desertsun02 thank you for te reply! It gives me something to start experimenting with
One thang...the honeycomb cardboard pad? What is it and where to get it ...stumped I am...Oops.. that's two thangs...
hi. it's an 'evap cooler pad'. you can get those at places like home depot. (amazon has them too)
I already have the radiator and fans from Amazon to build the split unit.
sweet!
Will show the boyfriend this. He may prefer to make this instead to f-ing with his oversize slim evaporative cooler.
or both! 😉👍
Ever Hear of a Swamp Cooler ?😂jk Drain the Swamp