I applaud your boldness n bravery to undertake this task. Most people only talk about it, you are at least trying. Also there Is nothing more easy & pathetic than being critic.... I applaud you for trying.... Failure failure failure leads to the path of success.....
I just did this kit for someone. I checked the base gasket orientation before putting the jug on and it does go 1 way. I can see at 6:39 yours is flipped the wrong way. Notice the 1 corner bolt hole by the cam chain is half misaligned. I saw this too and flipped the gasket to where that hole that seems to be for nothing is up on the intake side and all holes line up perfectly. I saw you had to pull this down and use sealer in another video. I think the misalignment caused you problems or the fact it’s a junk paper gasket and not the metal oem type. For anyone doing this job, I recommend using a higher end gasket kit and ditch these junk niche gaskets. Also, having done a bunch of piston circlips, I strongly recommend you stuff some rags or towels down in the con rod opening so as to not drop your clip down in there!
That base gasket was about the cheapest gasket next to a notebook piece of paper lol That ultra-black sealer still hasn't leaked which is fantastic, with the C-clips I normally do stuff paper towels in the case in case it slips out but I must have had my head off somewhere while installing it
Great video, maybe go into some details with the valves, removing and installing them? Other than that great quality. Hope to learn more about timing and setting the timing on your next video.
I really thought about it but I was in such a rush to get this back together to ensure it ran lol I might have to take the head back off because its seeping coolant 😑 so I assume I'm gonna have to get it surfaced so if I do, I'll be sure to make a video on it!
You never want to use that Lucas lube on a cylinder wall with a new piston break in. Reason being its so effective at lubricating it will cause permanent leak spots in the wall where the piston didnt mate properly with the cross hatching grind. Always use non synthetic engine oil for lubing cylinder walls. Typically the kind that you are using in the motor for break in. After that is over then switch to the synthetic of your choice.
I didn't, I used walmart 10w-40 conventional for the cylinder walls, just used it for the parts that wouldn't get hit first with oil. While I didn't know the assembly lube on the cylinder walls did that, I've just been told to always lube the walls with whatever oil you plan on using for break in
What is your thoughts on the piston that was included with the jug? Decent piston? They are only 30 bucks. Your videos have help me a lot with rebuilding my 660
I'm still using it with no issue. No smoking/rattling and it sounds similar to the 686 I had previously. I would still check it if you get the kit and make sure you don't have excessive clearance between it and the cylinder
@@Hunters_Mechanics thank you for the information. I actually went ahead and ordered an OEM piston replacement. I figured I can’t go wrong with that. Your video on setting timing is going to help me out tremendously.
Curious to know your thoughts as well on the piston. I just got a 2003 Raptor 660. Someone rebuilt just the top end with a NICHE piston (I think). The jug and head are still OEM. I took a bore scope to verify the piston and it’s either factory or NICHE because it’s flattop with no marking except for the small intake relief and the circle in the middle. Other than that I’m pretty sure it’s a niche bc whoever rebuilt it also used a niche starter.
Quick enquiry, would it save a little hassle (if not time) to install one wrist pin retainer clip before putting the piston on the rod or is that not a good idea???
You can leave it in the chassis, no need to remove the engine for a top end rebuild. Now if you wanted to split the case for the crankshaft then you would
Someone help with some info , got a 2001 Yamaha 660 , put one of those niche jug 686 and piston kits in with a cometic gasket , I get plenty of movement from piston going up and down and compression is at 120 , but when I have spark plug in or compression is all the way up to 120 the motor won’t turn any more ??, I have a car battery feeding the atv battery and a brand new starter in ???
I am not sure, they look exactly the same but I know the cooling fittings are in a slightly different spot. I've been looking for a good set of heads too but find one thats good condition AND the same serials is difficult
Its definitely situational, if its purely your rings that are bad, I would just replace the rings, get the cylinder honed by a shop, and get the cylinder and cylinder head flatness checked and milled. If you're cylinder has been damaged or worn beyond what honing can fix, id get a size up piston/rings, get the cylinder bored out and get a head gasket to go with the size
Your best bet is to take the valve cover and cam back out and just fish around until you get it back on the bottom, I had mine do the same when getting the cam in and had to fish it around to ensure I go it back on
Hey man. I have 2 raptor 660s in the garage an 03 and 05 they both have low compression and do not run. Would you recommend doing a top end and new jug or rebuilding the entire thing from the bottom up?
It depends on the cause of the lack of compression, either way you should take apart the top end and see what the issue is. If you have a broken piston or extreme wear and tear on it id take apart the bottom end and clean it
@@Hunters_Mechanics thank u sir. How hard of a job is this. Im fairly mechanically inclined but ive never attemped to rebuild a raptor. Any advice or best practices u can give me?
@@jbish1251 ive got the manual if you want the pdf, ive had several people tell me that they've had no experience whatsoever with engines and rebuilt their top end and got it running good so I assume if you have any slight idea of engines, you'll be fine
The cam bosses didn't look very healthy on that head...also while u had valves out, should have gotten sum valve compound and did a quick valve job , makes it worth the effort for sure
As far as I know, the ring with R is the top compression ring, and the R faces up. I haven't seen 660 rings that had an R on them but haven't had many aftermarket rings either
Hunter's Mechanics awesome! Thanks a ton man. I’m literally tearing my 660 apart to for a piston and ring kit in it as we speak and couldn’t find the specs anywhere and don’t have a manual. Lol
Back when i did this rebuild, most of the parts came with the kit that I got off Ebay, nowadays I use Partzilla or Rockymountainatv and just buy oem parts
Was up till I tore her down, currently in the process of rebuilding the bottom in and placing all the bearings and seals. Jug and piston kit has been great 👍
I was still learning and getting feedback then, ive learned to slow down and explain things like im talking to someone whose never seen anything like this stuff lol eventually ill redo this entire series
@@Hunters_Mechanics My Man 💪🏽💯💯💯💯 If you ask me you’ve done more than enough, but helllll yeahh that would be great I blew a valve 😅 Again man thanks a lot for the dope content 👌🏽
Its always a great idea to check the ring gap before installing them but its just a risk if you don't. I'm not going to say it'll be okay or not but I at least hope you set them in the correct area around the piston
@@Hunters_Mechanics I already installed it without doing the gaps or anything but does it sound like a good idea to just take it back apart and gap the rings and if so how would I gab them
@@crfisaiah3963 its a possibility that they are fine, I checked piston clearance and ring gap for mine and they were in spec but that doesn't mean yours will be. If it was me I'd check it to give me a piece of mind
@@Hunters_Mechanics Ima just ride it and if it acts up I’ll know it’s the rings an may take it apart and get it right but I’m pretty sure it is with barely movement of the piston inside the bore
Still watching them.. just seen you gave heart for my comments. I like how you actually check your comments. Gained a little more respect from me
I try to reply to every comment but most of them could be answered if they actually watched the video or looked in the description
I applaud your boldness n bravery to undertake this task. Most people only talk about it, you are at least trying. Also there Is nothing more easy & pathetic than being critic.... I applaud you for trying.... Failure failure failure leads to the path of success.....
I just did this kit for someone. I checked the base gasket orientation before putting the jug on and it does go 1 way. I can see at 6:39 yours is flipped the wrong way. Notice the 1 corner bolt hole by the cam chain is half misaligned. I saw this too and flipped the gasket to where that hole that seems to be for nothing is up on the intake side and all holes line up perfectly. I saw you had to pull this down and use sealer in another video. I think the misalignment caused you problems or the fact it’s a junk paper gasket and not the metal oem type. For anyone doing this job, I recommend using a higher end gasket kit and ditch these junk niche gaskets. Also, having done a bunch of piston circlips, I strongly recommend you stuff some rags or towels down in the con rod opening so as to not drop your clip down in there!
That base gasket was about the cheapest gasket next to a notebook piece of paper lol That ultra-black sealer still hasn't leaked which is fantastic, with the C-clips I normally do stuff paper towels in the case in case it slips out but I must have had my head off somewhere while installing it
Great video, maybe go into some details with the valves, removing and installing them? Other than that great quality. Hope to learn more about timing and setting the timing on your next video.
I really thought about it but I was in such a rush to get this back together to ensure it ran lol I might have to take the head back off because its seeping coolant 😑 so I assume I'm gonna have to get it surfaced so if I do, I'll be sure to make a video on it!
You never want to use that Lucas lube on a cylinder wall with a new piston break in. Reason being its so effective at lubricating it will cause permanent leak spots in the wall where the piston didnt mate properly with the cross hatching grind. Always use non synthetic engine oil for lubing cylinder walls. Typically the kind that you are using in the motor for break in. After that is over then switch to the synthetic of your choice.
I didn't, I used walmart 10w-40 conventional for the cylinder walls, just used it for the parts that wouldn't get hit first with oil. While I didn't know the assembly lube on the cylinder walls did that, I've just been told to always lube the walls with whatever oil you plan on using for break in
Not sure if you still do anything but I was wondering where u were located and if I could pay you to work on my motor?
What is your thoughts on the piston that was included with the jug? Decent piston? They are only 30 bucks. Your videos have help me a lot with rebuilding my 660
I'm still using it with no issue. No smoking/rattling and it sounds similar to the 686 I had previously. I would still check it if you get the kit and make sure you don't have excessive clearance between it and the cylinder
@@Hunters_Mechanics thank you for the information. I actually went ahead and ordered an OEM piston replacement. I figured I can’t go wrong with that. Your video on setting timing is going to help me out tremendously.
Curious to know your thoughts as well on the piston. I just got a 2003 Raptor 660. Someone rebuilt just the top end with a NICHE piston (I think). The jug and head are still OEM. I took a bore scope to verify the piston and it’s either factory or NICHE because it’s flattop with no marking except for the small intake relief and the circle in the middle. Other than that I’m pretty sure it’s a niche bc whoever rebuilt it also used a niche starter.
Can you please tell me what the ring gaps should be !!!! Please and thank you
I have the manual PDF in the description which will have the ring gaps in it 😁
Quick enquiry, would it save a little hassle (if not time) to install one wrist pin retainer clip before putting the piston on the rod or is that not a good idea???
It really would, I just never thought about it at the time
Great video quick question for ya when doing a head. Gasket do I have to pull the motor or can I leave it in?
You can leave it in the chassis, no need to remove the engine for a top end rebuild. Now if you wanted to split the case for the crankshaft then you would
Someone help with some info , got a 2001 Yamaha 660 , put one of those niche jug 686 and piston kits in with a cometic gasket , I get plenty of movement from piston going up and down and compression is at 120 , but when I have spark plug in or compression is all the way up to 120 the motor won’t turn any more ??, I have a car battery feeding the atv battery and a brand new starter in ???
How do I get my cam chain back out of the motor after changing my head gasket on my raptor 660
Will a 660 grizzly top end
fit on a 660r raptor jug can't find a good raptor top end anywhere
I am not sure, they look exactly the same but I know the cooling fittings are in a slightly different spot. I've been looking for a good set of heads too but find one thats good condition AND the same serials is difficult
@@Hunters_Mechanics thanks for info
Hello, I have a question. The piston rings that I bought have numbers and they go up or down.
Everything i follow, if they have numbers/ letters they face up
@@Hunters_Mechanics Thanks for answering and you have good videos
What should the piston to sleeve clearance be on oem 100mm piston
Manual says 0.05mm-0.07mm (0.0020 in - 0.0028 in) with a limit of 0.15mm (0.0059in)
@ thanks!
How is the new Niche jug holding up? I heard they always have problems
Yet to have a problem nor leak, so far so good!
@@Hunters_Mechanics 💯💯💯💯👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
what do you think on the chinese steel valves kit for the yamaha
Can't say I have any experience with them, I'd probably still go with OEM if possible on valves
It's a lot easier to start the piston in the cylinder while it's on the bench install rags into the crank case in case you drop the c-clip
Ik its been awhile but my piston rings are bad im thinking should i replace the piston,ring and get a new jug head or what ??
Its definitely situational, if its purely your rings that are bad, I would just replace the rings, get the cylinder honed by a shop, and get the cylinder and cylinder head flatness checked and milled. If you're cylinder has been damaged or worn beyond what honing can fix, id get a size up piston/rings, get the cylinder bored out and get a head gasket to go with the size
My timing chain fell off bottom gear when i installed my new top end. Got any tips on getting it on without removing flywheel?
Your best bet is to take the valve cover and cam back out and just fish around until you get it back on the bottom, I had mine do the same when getting the cam in and had to fish it around to ensure I go it back on
What was the name of the new bolt set that u gotbolt
Wow.. wish you did videos for 660 Grizzly/Rhino !!
Woah redheaded wife and helper lucky!
Does it matter which ring is on the top or middle? Like the bigger two idk which one goes on the top or middle
Does one of them have an "R" or a "STD" marking on it?
Hey man. I have 2 raptor 660s in the garage an 03 and 05 they both have low compression and do not run. Would you recommend doing a top end and new jug or rebuilding the entire thing from the bottom up?
It depends on the cause of the lack of compression, either way you should take apart the top end and see what the issue is. If you have a broken piston or extreme wear and tear on it id take apart the bottom end and clean it
@@Hunters_Mechanics thank u sir. How hard of a job is this. Im fairly mechanically inclined but ive never attemped to rebuild a raptor. Any advice or best practices u can give me?
@@jbish1251 ive got the manual if you want the pdf, ive had several people tell me that they've had no experience whatsoever with engines and rebuilt their top end and got it running good so I assume if you have any slight idea of engines, you'll be fine
@@Hunters_Mechanics man that would be awesome. I think i can do it and your videos have given me the extra confidence to at least try. Ur the man.
The cam bosses didn't look very healthy on that head...also while u had valves out, should have gotten sum valve compound and did a quick valve job , makes it worth the effort for sure
Hey witch piston ring goes on top the black one with the letter R or the silver one with the shiny edge on it ??
As far as I know, the ring with R is the top compression ring, and the R faces up. I haven't seen 660 rings that had an R on them but haven't had many aftermarket rings either
What the ring gap got the same kit
drive.google.com/file/d/16grmjKQTW6qWsFHpSTG_ycfqxTMhLFhT/view?usp=drivesdk
Thank you ur video is very helpful
do you have a video of the rest of the top end install? I need to know if or are you supposed to use a sealer.
If you need anything else after the head for the valve cover, its detailed at the end of this video ua-cam.com/video/OjtnY-SfOV4/v-deo.html
I know it’s been a while since you’ve installed the kit but do you have the link or like the part number for the kit?
The seller for it no longer has anymore listings for it, won't even let me send you a link to its previous listing
Hunter's Mechanics dang, that’s alright! Thank you for looking man I appreciate you!
Do you need a fuel controller for this as well?
Did you use the dowel pins for the head
Yes, bought new oem ones
How you replace the valve seals because I’m planning on doing it too
You just line the new ones on straight with the guide and force them on, use a socket of the same size if needed and gently tap them flesh on
Do not use Nich cylinder kits! They are junk. The sleeves will drop in them every time!!
What was the oem specs for ring gap on the 660 rings?
Top ring: .30-.45mm
2nd ring: .30-.45mm
Oil Ring: .2-.7mm
Hunter's Mechanics awesome! Thanks a ton man. I’m literally tearing my 660 apart to for a piston and ring kit in it as we speak and couldn’t find the specs anywhere and don’t have a manual. Lol
@@NRG_pokemoN764 drive.google.com/open?id=0BxP0yghvEhcHMEQwcnRFLTNzUEk
Hunter's Mechanics dude, you’re the best!! Thanks a ton!
@@NRG_pokemoN764 No problem buddy!
Where you get all your parts from?
Back when i did this rebuild, most of the parts came with the kit that I got off Ebay, nowadays I use Partzilla or Rockymountainatv and just buy oem parts
Do you live in ky if so could I get you to put my motor together
I would if I had time and lived next door, I live in West Virginia and currently doing a head gasket for my car before I head back up to college!
I know this is old but how long did the stock rod hold?
Yes, still using it to this day
Your second ring is facing the wrong way. Bevel edge down
Where did you get the manual?
Modded raptor website, I can send you the download link if you need
@@Hunters_Mechanics if you could that would be awesome, thanks
@@heffalpump drive.google.com/file/d/0BxP0yghvEhcHMEQwcnRFLTNzUEk/view?usp=drivesdk
@@Hunters_Mechanics thank you much
@@heffalpump no problem buddy!
Still holding up
Was up till I tore her down, currently in the process of rebuilding the bottom in and placing all the bearings and seals. Jug and piston kit has been great 👍
Yeah you rushed this video man 🤕 good stuff though with all the others
I learned a lot
I was still learning and getting feedback then, ive learned to slow down and explain things like im talking to someone whose never seen anything like this stuff lol eventually ill redo this entire series
@@Hunters_Mechanics My Man 💪🏽💯💯💯💯
If you ask me you’ve done more than enough, but helllll yeahh that would be great
I blew a valve 😅
Again man thanks a lot for the dope content 👌🏽
I bought the kit and installed it without gapping the rings do you think it’s ok?
Its always a great idea to check the ring gap before installing them but its just a risk if you don't. I'm not going to say it'll be okay or not but I at least hope you set them in the correct area around the piston
@@Hunters_Mechanics I already installed it without doing the gaps or anything but does it sound like a good idea to just take it back apart and gap the rings and if so how would I gab them
@@Hunters_Mechanics but did you happen you’re rings?
@@crfisaiah3963 its a possibility that they are fine, I checked piston clearance and ring gap for mine and they were in spec but that doesn't mean yours will be. If it was me I'd check it to give me a piece of mind
@@Hunters_Mechanics Ima just ride it and if it acts up I’ll know it’s the rings an may take it apart and get it right but I’m pretty sure it is with barely movement of the piston inside the bore
Up8r=kE
Niche is junk
Yet to have an issue.