rc valley its great and so are scale trucks i love building them and you cant be impatient with it right i have redone things many times getting pissed dont work just do it till it works
Coming to this video from the full size world... tip #3: that problem you're seeing IS in fact scale, in the 1:1 world it's called "shackle inversion" and it comes from improperly setup shackle angles. Normally this happens when you start mixing and matching springs and shackles and welding on new mounts trying to change wheelbase/flexibility but don't setup your angles correctly. Your purchased mod to relocate the pivot point is the correct way to fix it in the 1:1 world too, but the shortcut in the 1:1 world is to buy "boomerang shackles" or "anti-inversion shackles" that are shaped in a way that prevents this from happening. tip #4: 1:1 guys DON'T do this, full size leaves are the same width for the entire length including the eyes. 1:1 springs twist more along their length than scale springs do I believe. Some people say stick with factory rubber bushings because they flex more and allow the springs to twist more, some prefer to go with poly bushings and trade off flexibility for stiffer (read: more predictable) road manners and bushing longevity. Other solutions such as "revolver shackles" and using uniballs on the pivot end are meant to give more twist and therefore more flex.
I can’t thank you enough for the videos of the marlin tf2. After watching them I made the decision to purchase one. I would be honored to put your logo on my truck for USTE 2020. Thanks.
First of all.. There is NOTHING wrong with a long video. It's all about content, which you have. So do long videos by all means. I think there is a reason why school is for years and years😉 Thanks for great tips.😎👍👍
These are all good tips and some of them will actually work for a full size truck!! But there's two tips you might not know of or have ever seen! One is a 'revolver shackle',..which is actually a shackle that is technically made of either two shackles together that can act like a folding ladder and have a swivel in the middle. The other is a 'buggy leaf' which is usually only used on the back axle when you take half of a main leaf and attach it about an inch inboard from where your original shackle mount would normally be on the frame, then mount a shackle to the eye of the end of the leaf that's mounted to the frame and then of course to the other eye of the Spring in the original suspension. What's really great as that both of these devices can be made from spare parts!!!😎👍 If you look these up online you can see the significance of their operation and that they greatly increase the droop and articulation of leaf spring suspension on full size and RC rigs. On my full size 1984 Toyota Hilux I did the buggy leaf on the rear Springs and a revolver shackle on the front Springs but that's not a good idea for a street legal vehicle unless you clamp them down to defeat that extra movement on pavement. Let's just say it's a little scary during high speed maneuvers or lane abrupt lane changes!!!!(don't ask me how I know.😬) I'm doing one right now on my original 1982 (ish) bruiser and will probably do the same on my new clone. Great video and keep up the good work.😀
All great tips, I have a sawback, and only thing I have done was remove a leaf . So thanks alot for the tips. And to the people who give a thumbs down. WHY ? why be so negative , he is just trying to help people in the hobby. Maybe you should try the line dancing page or something.
Plus 1 for longer videos *HAHA* This video is GOLD, like others have said, love the scale looks of leaf springs but worried how they would perform compared to links and coil springs. All 5 tips easy to do and cheap, Great video....
And it works very well, only I didn't do was number for. I didn't grind the Leafs but everything else Great tips . I didn't to my Marvin crawler and it performs very well, I appreciate you sharing these tips i'll watch for more
I don't usually comment much because while I'm a Custom Builder I work almost completely in Metal. But when it comes down to y'all having important tips, mods & the like, rushing thru to keep videos short can only hurt. It's just my opinion but it's your channel, make your videos how y'all want to make them. Yeah maybe some Subscribers may leave, I doubt it y'all make decent vids, but is it quality or quantity y'all are after? My channel is brand new, I've a lot learn about making good videos, but I like longer videos myself. I don't think quality Build or Tech vids can be rushed and help the viewer to his own fix. Anyway, I've yapped enough, great tips, thanks.
Thanks for the feedback! There was a lot to get through in this one, and yes, it might have been a bit rushed. As I grow and experiment on this channel, I'm going to try things until I feel confident about the result. I'm always working towards quality. More videos never means better. Thanks for watching!
Nice! There's a lot more that needs to be done to a Bruiser to make it plusher, but these will definitely help steer you in the right direction! Thanks for watching!
I know this is an old video but I’ll chime in anyways. If you remove the screws that hold the leafs pack to the axle and install o-rings between the leave pack and the axle and run the leave attaching screws through the o-rings it will help it articulate more as well. Just don’t over tighten the screws ya want a little movement. Great videos as always!
You can also do the o-ring method as well. I’m currently running the chino mod and o-ring mod front and rear with full leaf packs and get great articulation on my LWB
I followed your advice and my HG-P407 got a lot better: 1 leaf spring, damper springs removed. Damper changed to better o-rings and "opened" the coils, taking away some material. Refilled with 100cst oil (now actually quite good, no reason to change them out). Also did the "Chino mod". It's now as good as a leaf spring rc can be. Just waiting for some better tires (Austar AX-3021).
great tips man as always love the channel and it doesn't bother me any with long videos I actually enjoy the longer videos can get alot more great information
I know this is an older video...but i just wanted to let you know, that i like the 15minute + videos :) Keep it up,misterScaleBuilder.On the verge of getting a Marlin these days,,as i want to expand my rc collection,after once again getting into "crawler stuff".I just recently bought one of your favourite rigs,,the Traxxas Trx4..."Muoaaahhhhahaha :) ITs a Trophy Edition Defender though..and i also recently built my own Defender body,and painted it my favourite Land Rover color, Eastnor Green.Eitherway.Thanx for lovely videos :) Greetings from an Rcfan from Norway ,Stefan :)
One trick that i know full size guys use, is flipping the front shackle. This might require some extensive mods, but moving the front mounted front leaf spring shackle to the rear of the front spring mount, will help bump handling. instead of being forced to move forward on a bump, it'll move towards the rear much more naturally
Those are all good tips. Here's the others. D110 shock-hoops and longer shocks(I run 90's at all 4 corners). No coils on those shocks either. And , of course the O-ring modification. I get 3.5 inches of flex. I've had my rig like this for years.
If you extract the smallest (helper) spring you can break the spring package faster because of more "torque twist" on the other leaves .I would only take of the second big leave.TF2 flex more with rubber rings between leave and axel. Two linked spring hangers on one leave and a linkage from axel to chassis like on the Tamiya Bruisers rear give tons of travel.I like the chino mod very much ! Very nice video.
Just a heads up on tip 3 if you have the Marlin crawler Edition ready to run they have fixed the rear perch it is only on the kits and maybe the regular ready to run
I think I recall hearing about a tip a few years ago. That’s where you remove the shock entirely. I don’t know if the helper spring might need to come off for even better flexing, too.
Here's a top tip: Sell it. Hahahaha I got rid of mine after seeing how badly put together the thing was. If I want a micro crawler, I'll stick with the Pro-Line, or RC4WD ones.
I agree. But they are still cheap and fun to at least have a nice model sitting on the shelf. I have the Hilux version with the metal parts and I push that truck hard and since the metal upgrades had no issues. I also have the new b36 6X6 and that one is pretty good out the box. All mine are kit versions btw.
Great video thank you for the information... now for the important thing at hand I'm extremely curious about that blue 6X6 on the shelf behind you and what looks to be some sort of steam engine on the back. I looked at the videos on your channel and I did not see the 6X6 at first look. Any information you can share on it or pictures / video would be much appreciated!
Great vid and nice tips Matt, but you're doing the Chino mod wrong. You don't grind the end of the eye to a point you grind up to the top of the eye so when you look at it from the front or back it's like looking a the roof of a house. General scale talk on RCC it's the first stickied thread. While the way your doing it probably helps a little, you'll get even better performance doing it Deans way.
Thanks very much for the feedback! I went back and looked at mine, and I must have used the wrong part in the video, but yes, they are done properly. Cheers!
Cheers From Calgary Matt. I am thinking that it may be easy enough to relocate an aftermarket shorty battery tray just in front of the motor, to get the weight distribution percentage a wee bit higher on the front end of the rig. thoughts? Sir James.
Gosh, I've done a couple leaf conversions but it's not easy. GCM used to make a couple kits that you could use parts from, but it's not a popular conversion. Check our forum, perhaps you can find more info there. www.scalebuildersguild.com/forum
Is there anything stopping me from taking a regular 4 link 1.9 truck and converting it to leaf sprung? Just need to drill the frame rails right? And new axles obviously.
I like your tips! I have not driven a leaf spring truck since 1988 that was my old Tamiya Bruiser. I only made the kit and then drove it never modded it. I will be getting the new Marlin crawler TF2 that you just got. And I will do all 5 of your hacks after I drive it once on my scale course and then again after I mod it. So thank you for the tips. This will be my first RC4WD TF2. Can you make a video of your Marlin crawler TF2 out for a good run so I can see how much better yours is now ? Again thank you good video today.
The smallest spring is for prevent leave twist and breakage (helper spring), i would only extract the first spring under the guide spring.TF 2 articulate more with rubber rings between leave and axel.Big plus leaves have no axel twist!
It depends on how hard you are on your trucks I guess. I'm not a fan of the rubber ring trick, I find that it leads to more bent leafs. Axle twist exists no matter how many leafs you use - try a traction bar to eliminate that.
My TF2 rear leafs get stuck if I hit a big bump at speed. The compress then stay compressed, almost as if they stick in the rearmost spring shackle. Any tips for fixing this?
Well that was very interesting and I am very close to getting a truck that is a little more scale than the axials that I have become extremely comfortable with. I do love the capabilities but the little details that i miss are all the "TRUE" scale look features that a leaf spring TF2 for example has.. :). Some great tips for these rigs. Thanks for sharing.. :)
Picked up a Marlin Crawler the other day and found your videos, which are fantastic by the way. I did all the leaf mods (except 5 - soon...) and now the front is quite soft - as in when I compress the shocks at the same time the steering servo hits the front axle. Is this normal or is there something I can do to fix it? Thank you.
There's some good info, thank you. You have any video on running this result? And the real 80-90s trucks all use leaf springs? I'd like a scale truck. Maybe the Trailfinder2 is it.
Scale trucks are just small versions of the real ones, so in this case, yes, leaf springs. Running video of the TF2's are all over the channel (i think).
I understand. The Trailfinder2 has been under my observation for a while now, I keep coming back to it but then I always notice the stiff articulation and lose interest. I'd really like a crawler, with leaf springs, that has a soft and realistic suspension like a real truck.
I’m just looking to lower mine so it sits better for display (back to future black TF2). What mods should I be considering here. Stock ride height is too high.
Great tips. I’m 3 years behind you on this video. Just looking at the RC4WD TF 2 trucks. Love the looks of them. Not a huge crawler guy but love running my TRX-4 on trails, tracks and rough terrain. Do you have any videos on which mods will make the TRX-4 suck up those lumps abs bumps more realistically?
I think he did a video that showed a system that could make the shocks move. A cheap alternative would be putting a hardbody on it for more weight up top.
i run 4 and 3 link on my scale trucks but leaf works for my really scale trucks i want it to flex more but i really want scale so i will try that my trail trucks love them
@@scalebuildersguild I have an idea of inverting a leaf and using it like a link. Then the shock would only need to dampen. The front of the spring would be solid mounted to the chassis.
@@scalebuildersguild looking to build a Jeep YJ, so looking at a few SWB’s. I know they won’t be the best performers so gonna have to max out the points on body and accessories. Just watched the jelly bean videos. What would be the best source to learn all that styrene work you do? How do you learn about that slurry you made?
Not sure who all these impatient people are but I don’t mind a longer video. Who doesn’t like listening to info on tiny trucks?
rc valley its great and so are scale trucks i love building them and you cant be impatient with it right i have redone things many times getting pissed dont work just do it till it works
Trolls man, trolls. All good though! Many long videos to come! ;)
Stories about tiny trucks is my fav pastime on saturdays :D
Yes so true @RC Valley
Coming to this video from the full size world...
tip #3: that problem you're seeing IS in fact scale, in the 1:1 world it's called "shackle inversion" and it comes from improperly setup shackle angles. Normally this happens when you start mixing and matching springs and shackles and welding on new mounts trying to change wheelbase/flexibility but don't setup your angles correctly. Your purchased mod to relocate the pivot point is the correct way to fix it in the 1:1 world too, but the shortcut in the 1:1 world is to buy "boomerang shackles" or "anti-inversion shackles" that are shaped in a way that prevents this from happening.
tip #4: 1:1 guys DON'T do this, full size leaves are the same width for the entire length including the eyes. 1:1 springs twist more along their length than scale springs do I believe. Some people say stick with factory rubber bushings because they flex more and allow the springs to twist more, some prefer to go with poly bushings and trade off flexibility for stiffer (read: more predictable) road manners and bushing longevity. Other solutions such as "revolver shackles" and using uniballs on the pivot end are meant to give more twist and therefore more flex.
Very cool, thanks for your feedback from the full size truck world!
I can’t thank you enough for the videos of the marlin tf2. After watching them I made the decision to purchase one. I would be honored to put your logo on my truck for USTE 2020. Thanks.
First of all..
There is NOTHING wrong with a long video. It's all about content, which you have. So do long videos by all means. I think there is a reason why school is for years and years😉
Thanks for great tips.😎👍👍
Thanks for the kind words!
I like longer videos so no, not all of us dislike them.
True enough! Thanks!
These are all good tips and some of them will actually work for a full size truck!!
But there's two tips you might not know of or have ever seen!
One is a 'revolver shackle',..which is actually a shackle that is technically made of either two shackles together that can act like a folding ladder and have a swivel in the middle.
The other is a 'buggy leaf' which is usually only used on the back axle when you take half of a main leaf and attach it about an inch inboard from where your original shackle mount would normally be on the frame, then mount a shackle to the eye of the end of the leaf that's mounted to the frame and then of course to the other eye of the Spring in the original suspension.
What's really great as that both of these devices can be made from spare parts!!!😎👍
If you look these up online you can see the significance of their operation and that they greatly increase the droop and articulation of leaf spring suspension on full size and RC rigs.
On my full size 1984 Toyota Hilux I did the buggy leaf on the rear Springs and a revolver shackle on the front Springs but that's not a good idea for a street legal vehicle unless you clamp them down to defeat that extra movement on pavement.
Let's just say it's a little scary during high speed maneuvers or lane abrupt lane changes!!!!(don't ask me how I know.😬)
I'm doing one right now on my original 1982 (ish) bruiser and will probably do the same on my new clone.
Great video and keep up the good work.😀
5 years ago, you were so young ;-) Iam always happy, when you make a new video for our 1:10 world! Go on.
You're right! In fact I was 5 years younger 😂
All great tips, I have a sawback, and only thing I have done was remove a leaf . So thanks alot for the tips. And to the people who give a thumbs down. WHY ? why be so negative , he is just trying to help people in the hobby. Maybe you should try the line dancing page or something.
Some people can't handle my brilliance I guess. ;)
@@scalebuildersguild nope they can't , but I appreciate it !
Plus 1 for longer videos *HAHA*
This video is GOLD, like others have said, love the scale looks of leaf springs but worried how they would perform compared to links and coil springs. All 5 tips easy to do and cheap, Great video....
Thanks very much! It's surprising how much you can get out of these little trucks.
Oooooh, forgot to mention, I like longer videos, about 15/20 minutes or so. 😀 👍 👍
That comes quite naturally for me. Haha!
Love seeing how your channel has grown, im about to put leafs on my scx10.2 fj40 wagon, already made a custom interior from help on your channel
Thank you! Glad to help and thanks for watching!
And it works very well, only I didn't do was number for. I didn't grind the Leafs but everything else Great tips . I didn't to my Marvin crawler and it performs very well, I appreciate you sharing these tips i'll watch for more
Awesome, glad you got something out of it!
Thanks for the video. My TF2 Marlin Crawler arrives today and I can't wait to start modding it.
Nice! It's a very capable leaf-springer out of the box.
Great video......
Now I want a leaf sprung build
Join the fray! They're awesome.
I don't usually comment much because while I'm a Custom Builder I work almost completely in Metal. But when it comes down to y'all having important tips, mods & the like, rushing thru to keep videos short can only hurt.
It's just my opinion but it's your channel, make your videos how y'all want to make them. Yeah maybe some Subscribers may leave, I doubt it y'all make decent vids, but is it quality or quantity y'all are after? My channel is brand new, I've a lot learn about making good videos, but I like longer videos myself. I don't think quality Build or Tech vids can be rushed and help the viewer to his own fix.
Anyway, I've yapped enough, great tips, thanks.
Thanks for the feedback! There was a lot to get through in this one, and yes, it might have been a bit rushed. As I grow and experiment on this channel, I'm going to try things until I feel confident about the result. I'm always working towards quality. More videos never means better. Thanks for watching!
Very cool tips - just bought a bruiser and just got it! Thanks!
Nice! There's a lot more that needs to be done to a Bruiser to make it plusher, but these will definitely help steer you in the right direction! Thanks for watching!
I'm enjoying your channel and learning a great deal. Longer videos are fine with me. 👍
Thanks very much for watching!
Anti wrap bars are good for longevity of leaf springs. Seen a lot of broken springs on the trail that don’t have them. Good tips.
Absolutely, if you're going hard on the throttle, this is definitely an important mod! Thanks for sharing!
When i go from 1/24 crawler to 1/10 scale crawler ill def be getting it from rc4wd- these trucks are SO awesome!
Thanks for the highlights I just did the springs elimination and the truck perform 10 times better thanks again!!!!
My pleasure, happy to help!
Only mod I did was taking out the springs in the shocks and I love it 👍🏻
Great!
Excellent video, it's good to see all these tips put together in such a clear and precise manner. I may have to hook me a Marlin.
Hard to beat it for C1 RTR! Thanks for watching sir!
I know this is an old video but I’ll chime in anyways. If you remove the screws that hold the leafs pack to the axle and install o-rings between the leave pack and the axle and run the leave attaching screws through the o-rings it will help it articulate more as well. Just don’t over tighten the screws ya want a little movement.
Great videos as always!
Great suggestion, thanks for adding and thanks for watching!
Tip #6: get the U-bolt kit from RC4WD. This doesn't flatten the leaf where you screw the leaf on the axle. And looks more scale.
Very informative and very cool! I’m gonna use these tips for one of my rigs. Thanks again 👍🏼
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Super!Super! Love what you guys are doing here. Keep up the awesome work!! -A
We will, thank you!
You can also do the o-ring method as well. I’m currently running the chino mod and o-ring mod front and rear with full leaf packs and get great articulation on my LWB
I find o-ring gives a bit too much flex, but whatever works for you! Thanks for watching!
I like the 15 min videos! Another great video
Cheers! I appreciate the feedback!
I followed your advice and my HG-P407 got a lot better: 1 leaf spring, damper springs removed. Damper changed to better o-rings and "opened" the coils, taking away some material. Refilled with 100cst oil (now actually quite good, no reason to change them out). Also did the "Chino mod". It's now as good as a leaf spring rc can be. Just waiting for some better tires (Austar AX-3021).
Great tips!
Some sweet mods Im thinking of trying on my TF2. Awesome video.
Thanks Marc!
Thanks for the time spent making this video... good tips not doubt!
Cheers! Thanks for watching!
About to buy an rc4wd. Great tips great video 🤝
great tips man as always love the channel and it doesn't bother me any with long videos I actually enjoy the longer videos can get alot more great information
More long ones coming! ;) Thanks for watching!
Awesome tips, really great feeling after modding sawback. Thanks. 😀 👍 👍 👍
Thanks for watching!
Great color grading👍🏻
Cheers!
I know this is an older video...but i just wanted to let you know, that i like the 15minute + videos :) Keep it up,misterScaleBuilder.On the verge of getting a Marlin these days,,as i want to expand my rc collection,after once again getting into "crawler stuff".I just recently bought one of your favourite rigs,,the Traxxas Trx4..."Muoaaahhhhahaha :) ITs a Trophy Edition Defender though..and i also recently built my own Defender body,and painted it my favourite Land Rover color, Eastnor Green.Eitherway.Thanx for lovely videos :) Greetings from an Rcfan from Norway ,Stefan :)
I like longer videos. But none the less keep the good work coming
Thanks, will do! Cheers!
Great tips altogether!
One trick that i know full size guys use, is flipping the front shackle. This might require some extensive mods, but moving the front mounted front leaf spring shackle to the rear of the front spring mount, will help bump handling. instead of being forced to move forward on a bump, it'll move towards the rear much more naturally
Definitely a great tip, and something that I've done in the past with the TF2. Not an easy mod, but certainly possible. Thanks for the feedback!
It only took 3 years but I finally ordered my marlin crawler 👍
I've been wanting a TF2 for like 10 years now. Think I'm finally gonna order one 😀
Great tips! Love your videos
Thanks very much, I always appreciate the feedback!
Those are all good tips.
Here's the others. D110 shock-hoops and longer shocks(I run 90's at all 4 corners).
No coils on those shocks either.
And , of course the O-ring modification.
I get 3.5 inches of flex.
I've had my rig like this for years.
Also great tips, I gave the five that I found worked best for me. Thanks for the feedback!
Nice job Mr. Matt
Thanks Mr. Mike!
Very helpful info sir. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks Brad!
If you extract the smallest (helper) spring you can break the spring package faster because of more "torque twist" on the other leaves .I would only take of the second big leave.TF2 flex more with rubber rings between leave and axel. Two linked spring hangers on one leave and a linkage from axel to chassis like on the Tamiya Bruisers rear give tons of travel.I like the chino mod very much ! Very nice video.
Are you talking about a traction bar? That's the easiest way to prevent torque twist.
Hey thanks for the tips, helpful as I am new to the real scale side of rc life.
Right on! Glad I could help!
Just a heads up on tip 3 if you have the Marlin crawler Edition ready to run they have fixed the rear perch it is only on the kits and maybe the regular ready to run
Thanks for the update!
I think I recall hearing about a tip a few years ago. That’s where you remove the shock entirely. I don’t know if the helper spring might need to come off for even better flexing, too.
You really don’t need the shock with leaf springs at all.
@@scalebuildersguild
That's what I figured!
DO what you do. Screw the jealous haters.
Not to worry, I do! The challenge was to make it short, and it still wasn't short enough. ;)
Is that red truck the WPL C24? looks nice
Tf2
Awesome tips man! Much appreciated :) Love the vids!
Thank you, hope they help. Thanks for watching!
Thanks this video was very helpful
Glad it helped!
I got one you put revolver shackles on it it lets the axel move down more and creat more flex for big and rc cars
Never mind me. I'm failing at commenting. Subscribed.
HemiStorm RC - Custom RC builds, painting videos and more the painting guru! What up Chris! Nice to see you over here at sbg
hemistorm i see that your getting into scale more thats great
But you fail with the best of them. ;)
I see that little wpl military truck in the background. Any mods or advise on those things. I'm really digging the small trucks lately.
Here's a top tip: Sell it. Hahahaha I got rid of mine after seeing how badly put together the thing was. If I want a micro crawler, I'll stick with the Pro-Line, or RC4WD ones.
I agree. But they are still cheap and fun to at least have a nice model sitting on the shelf. I have the Hilux version with the metal parts and I push that truck hard and since the metal upgrades had no issues. I also have the new b36 6X6 and that one is pretty good out the box. All mine are kit versions btw.
Awesome video great 411. Thanks l will be using all the tips on my Chevy blazer.
Great video thank you for the information... now for the important thing at hand I'm extremely curious about that blue 6X6 on the shelf behind you and what looks to be some sort of steam engine on the back. I looked at the videos on your channel and I did not see the 6X6 at first look. Any information you can share on it or pictures / video would be much appreciated!
Ha, that's a work in progress. Definitely more info coming on it soon!
Scale Builder's Guild okay thank you for responding!, I definitely look forward to that video!!!
Great vid and nice tips Matt, but you're doing the Chino mod wrong. You don't grind the end of the eye to a point you grind up to the top of the eye so when you look at it from the front or back it's like looking a the roof of a house. General scale talk on RCC it's the first stickied thread. While the way your doing it probably helps a little, you'll get even better performance doing it Deans way.
Thanks very much for the feedback! I went back and looked at mine, and I must have used the wrong part in the video, but yes, they are done properly. Cheers!
Will you do a video on the hauk jeep in the back
As soon as it's done, you betcha!
Scale Builder's Guild I can’t wait! Been following that build on RCC for a while
Cheers From Calgary Matt. I am thinking that it may be easy enough to relocate an aftermarket shorty battery tray just in front of the motor, to get the weight distribution percentage a wee bit higher on the front end of the rig. thoughts?
Sir James.
Perhaps that could work! I'd probably go up to 4S in that case. Thanks for watching (my wife is from Cochrane)!
@@scalebuildersguild Very Kewl Cochrane is a beautiful Town/City. We trail out at Cochrane ranch, lots of fun.
What is a good leaf spring setup for the scx10 2. Like what shackles, springs, axles?
Gosh, I've done a couple leaf conversions but it's not easy. GCM used to make a couple kits that you could use parts from, but it's not a popular conversion. Check our forum, perhaps you can find more info there. www.scalebuildersguild.com/forum
Matt, when you say all four corners on the leaf spring mod, that’s one side of each spring to most forward and to most rear points correct?
I mean all four leafs, both ends.
Thank you
Cool tip on the leafs!..I may install leafs in the rear of my tf2 blazer now.get a few more scale points.do those terra shackles make a difference?
I think they add unnecessary additional travel.
Can I have a link so I can buy the leaf springs and axle and wheels
I like videos 🙃
What about putting oil in the shocks great 👍🏻 tips
Short video 😉
Is there anything stopping me from taking a regular 4 link 1.9 truck and converting it to leaf sprung? Just need to drill the frame rails right? And new axles obviously.
I’m certainly not stopping you! Go for it!
I like your tips! I have not driven a leaf spring truck since 1988 that was my old Tamiya Bruiser. I only made the kit and then drove it never modded it. I will be getting the new Marlin crawler TF2 that you just got. And I will do all 5 of your hacks after I drive it once on my scale course and then again after I mod it. So thank you for the tips. This will be my first RC4WD TF2. Can you make a video of your Marlin crawler TF2 out for a good run so I can see how much better yours is now ? Again thank you good video today.
I've already started modifying the Marlin, and hope to have it out on the trails sooner, rather than later! Thanks for watching!
Nice video! What do you think of the o-ring mod? any reason why it's not in the list?
Not a fan of that. Actually introduces too much flex if you ask me. Thanks for watching!
Big help. Thanks
Happy to help!
that chino mod, do you grind both ends of the leaf springs or just the outer end?
Both ends!
Hey, I'd love to know, can you put metal axles on a trail finder? I'm not fond of the yota axles, not as genuine as something steel.
They are metal axles though.
@@scalebuildersguild ya, but I was wondering if you could put something other than yota axles on a trail finder, you know if that's possible?
@@derekcouillard7038 ah yes, for sure. In my Marlin series, I use JEC racing leaf mounts for Vanquish axles.
@@scalebuildersguild cool
The smallest spring is for prevent leave twist and breakage (helper spring), i would only extract the first spring under the guide spring.TF 2 articulate more with rubber rings between leave and axel.Big plus leaves have no axel twist!
It depends on how hard you are on your trucks I guess. I'm not a fan of the rubber ring trick, I find that it leads to more bent leafs. Axle twist exists no matter how many leafs you use - try a traction bar to eliminate that.
My TF2 rear leafs get stuck if I hit a big bump at speed. The compress then stay compressed, almost as if they stick in the rearmost spring shackle. Any tips for fixing this?
Yes, upgrade to the Bowhouse rear leaf perch. Won’t happen with them.
Well that was very interesting and I am very close to getting a truck that is a little more scale than the axials that I have become extremely comfortable with. I do love the capabilities but the little details that i miss are all the "TRUE" scale look features that a leaf spring TF2 for example has.. :). Some great tips for these rigs. Thanks for sharing.. :)
Happy to share, thanks for watching!
RcNickster these things are actually pretty capable. I'm quite impressed with this tf2 pick up I got.
Lol i did a video on my channel about more flex for the tf2 and i forgot to mention tip number 1 😂.
Great vid as always
Thanks for watching!
Picked up a Marlin Crawler the other day and found your videos, which are fantastic by the way. I did all the leaf mods (except 5 - soon...) and now the front is quite soft - as in when I compress the shocks at the same time the steering servo hits the front axle. Is this normal or is there something I can do to fix it? Thank you.
Totally normal. Always going to be some setbacks with more flexible leaf springs.
Thanks for the tip mate
Any time!
There's some good info, thank you. You have any video on running this result?
And the real 80-90s trucks all use leaf springs? I'd like a scale truck. Maybe the Trailfinder2 is it.
Scale trucks are just small versions of the real ones, so in this case, yes, leaf springs. Running video of the TF2's are all over the channel (i think).
I understand. The Trailfinder2 has been under my observation for a while now, I keep coming back to it but then I always notice the stiff articulation and lose interest. I'd really like a crawler, with leaf springs, that has a soft and realistic suspension like a real truck.
I’m just looking to lower mine so it sits better for display (back to future black TF2). What mods should I be considering here. Stock ride height is too high.
All of them!
tip 1, shocks aren't for suspending the vehicle, they are for dampening movement and preventing recoil bounce.
Semantics, they work better without the internal springs.
Thanks for the tip. Now I have too mod my sawback.
Do it! The sawback is a great platform for mods.
Great tips
Thanks!
Great tips. I’m 3 years behind you on this video. Just looking at the RC4WD TF 2 trucks. Love the looks of them. Not a huge crawler guy but love running my TRX-4 on trails, tracks and rough terrain. Do you have any videos on which mods will make the TRX-4 suck up those lumps abs bumps more realistically?
I think he did a video that showed a system that could make the shocks move. A cheap alternative would be putting a hardbody on it for more weight up top.
20 wt oil
Anyone know where I can get a leaf spring kit for my scx10ii
i run 4 and 3 link on my scale trucks but leaf works for my really scale trucks i want it to flex more but i really want scale so i will try that my trail trucks love them
You'd be surprised at how capable these mods will make a leaf sprung truck. Give it a try!
6 years later, everything seems relevant still. Any updates youd say?
I haven’t done anything since this, but all those things apply still!
To be honest I really don't mind a 15min vedio, as long their interesting...by the way like the content on this one 👍
Good to know!
Did you make your t case skid plate or did you buy it from somewhere? I like how yours is flush
Bowhouse RC makes it!
Damn look at this young buck
I have a question how do people get their shocks to sit diagonally inwards towards the chassis frame
It's how this truck is designed. No rear shock towers, they bolt to a cross member.
That's one hell of a mask! I need that!
Is there a 1/24 scale leaf in the market place?
Not currently. ProLine made one about a decade ago!
@@scalebuildersguild I have an idea of inverting a leaf and using it like a link. Then the shock would only need to dampen. The front of the spring would be solid mounted to the chassis.
What oil wt use with no spring....
tip 5, you say break in those springs... but I think you are advocating heating the shock oil for a more "fluid" dampening?
No? I mean break them in by running the truck.
Anyone talent about oil wt you put in when you remove spring
very usefull tips,i used them on my tf2 and they worked fiawlessly!also,i love them long vids,around 20/25 minutes.-gasguzzler.
Thanks for watching, they are very useful tips!
i came here thinking bout my full scale Landcruiser but never mind that i can use these tip on my rc4wd trailfinder 2
Interesting how that happens! Thanks for watching!
Im going to try some of these hacks
Great! Post your results here!
Will do ill post before and after pictures
Can you recommend bigger wheels and tyres that will work on the tf2 thanks
I can't recommend anything larger than 4.5". Even that would probably rub.
What would be the best rig to start with to do a class 0 or class 1 leaf springs rig?
This one, if you’re hooked on a leaf-based truck.
@@scalebuildersguild looking to build a Jeep YJ, so looking at a few SWB’s. I know they won’t be the best performers so gonna have to max out the points on body and accessories. Just watched the jelly bean videos. What would be the best source to learn all that styrene work you do? How do you learn about that slurry you made?