***UPDATE*** although this hinge system works well as it sits, a few people have brought up concerns for the fabric fitting with the “scissor” action of the hinge. Thank you guys for bringing this to my attention. Please see Part 3.5 for my updated hinge!! Truck Bed Camper Build | Part 3.5 | Fixing My Roof Lift System! ua-cam.com/video/Fw8hyHMguIU/v-deo.html As always, everything is linked in the description of the video Including the video by Wander With Kate that explains in great detail about choosing the correct gas strut for your application! Camper Blueprints available on my website! www.adv4x4.us/store-1-1/p/truck-bed-camper-blueprints-dxf-cut-files-combo Drop your feedback in the comments I’d love to hear it!
You continue to just kill it John. The series is coming along great. I always appreciate how you keep it real with mistakes or more accurately design modifications. Keep up the great work! Thank you.
Thanks man! Hope you guys have been well! I try to show everything I can when it comes to the build! It’s a learning experience for us all at my expenditure 😂
FYI - Sika 330 - this stuff can be applied before you powder coat, cracks, seams, alum panels can all be glued and caulked before it’s coated and the coating will stick to the Sika 330. Be sure to check with your powder coat company beforehand as they might want to do a test sample.
Great video and great build. This is going to be an awesome camper. One thing to consider on your front and rear hinge mechanisms is where the fabric is going to go when the top is down. Right now, the hinges you have created nest in a sort of "scissors" way, which seems to leave little to no room for the fabric to come in when the top is lowered. Most pop-top manufacturers use a piano hinge solution because this allows the fabric to fall between the two panels when the top comes down, giving plenty of room for everything to pack up. I'm assuming that you're going to use a heavier fabric for the top, which means that the nested scissoring action of your hinge mechanisms will want to pinch the fabric when folding and likely won't leave adequate room. Just something to consider. Cheers.
Thanks Jason! I was just looking at that yesterday! I’m hoping there is an enough room it appears that way. That makes total sense why other companies do the piano hinge style!
No doubt man! I’ve always found it easier to figure some stuff out once I’m to that stage as trying to plan ahead you will not be able to see certain issues until it’s in front of you!
I’m designing my own camping trailer box that will be removable from my flat bed trailer and I was considering building it from an aluminum frame, but the cost seems to be too high for my budget. Do you have a cheap supplier for aluminum components and what do you think is the cost difference between wood and aluminum?
Both are viable options! It all comes down to what you are capable of working with and your budget! Buying aluminum in bulk is your best bet. It’s I believe about $1700 in aluminum only.
@ Thanks for the reply, I’ll probably use wood as my frame and composite panels, or possibly some steel frame elements with rollers for my collapsible box.
Looks like the side Carabiner and Runners are going to interfere with the fabric when you’re trying to close it, I’d put the eyes for the carabiner to the roof center structure and the bed platform so that it’s not in the fabrics way. But still keep the eyes on the roof sides for the gear hanging storage like you said.
This is looking great. Any pros or cons to having designed the struts for the exterior versus inside? I’m thinking if they were able to work inside there’s less to catch on a trail and the aero is just slightly better. But maybe it wouldn’t work with clearances etc.
Being on the inside might hinder his cloth walls from laying in properly. Being on the outside will expose them to the elements, though I'm sure they are rated for it.
I originally wanted them on the inside! Unfortunately no room, especially once there is fabric in the mix! There will be an awning on the driver side that essentially covers them as well. I think with better planning I may have been able to pull it off but at least they are easy to get too/replace this way!
@@Adv4x4 thanks man. Your build and videos have been a way for me to get what was in my head to paper and now to reality. Very grateful, you killed it for sure. I’ll send a pick when I’m done you can talk shit to me it will be fun. Always trying to make things better.
Love the way you approached this build, it looks very pro. If I was to do my camper again, this is the way I'd do it. Did you do any weight support calculations for the overhang to determine the frame material that you used? Subscribed!
Thanks Mike! I did use a deflection calculator for the material size on the overhang at 500lbs it didn’t have anything to note! Should be overkill, but that’s how I like it! Haha
@@Adv4x4 That's awesome! I looked high and low for one but I couldn't find it. What dimensions did you end up using for the frame overhang. I ended up finding a deflection calculator for 8020 and just wne t that way with my design.
@MikeBabsBC it is 3”x4” 1/8” wall aluminum tubing! That plus the fact that I have that angle riveted too it and the sheet that goes under the overhang it probably won’t budge at all!
***UPDATE*** although this hinge system works well as it sits, a few people have brought up concerns for the fabric fitting with the “scissor” action of the hinge.
Thank you guys for bringing this to my attention. Please see Part 3.5 for my updated hinge!!
Truck Bed Camper Build | Part 3.5 | Fixing My Roof Lift System!
ua-cam.com/video/Fw8hyHMguIU/v-deo.html
As always, everything is linked in the description of the video
Including the video by Wander With Kate that explains in great detail about choosing the correct gas strut for your application!
Camper Blueprints available on my website!
www.adv4x4.us/store-1-1/p/truck-bed-camper-blueprints-dxf-cut-files-combo
Drop your feedback in the comments I’d love to hear it!
Cool build! I need to learn CAD, so I can do this. Great job!
A pencil and paper works as well!! That’s how I used to design anything
You continue to just kill it John. The series is coming along great. I always appreciate how you keep it real with mistakes or more accurately design modifications. Keep up the great work! Thank you.
Thanks man! Hope you guys have been well! I try to show everything I can when it comes to the build! It’s a learning experience for us all at my expenditure 😂
I’m impressed with what you can accomplish in a very modest shop! Can you do a shop tour with tools you recommend?
i had a miserable time with gas struts. i bought the same ones and then went with electric actuators. awersome build, you did a great job planning.
the straps might bunch up your fabric
They were a little tricky to get on but I think I have it dialed now! Finding the right lb rating was the ticket forsure! Thanks man!
Well done Buddy. Hit a few complications but your solutions were simple and practical. Really enjoyed it.
Trying to keep it as simple as possible! (While also still being a full pop up haha.) Thanks Mike!!
I like it! I enjoy your approach to problem solving your builds! Awesome job!
Thanks for watching! Problem solving is something I’ve always enjoyed so I embrace them on projects!!
Its coming together so nice!
Thanks buddy!!
Watched the entire series so far, very nice work and great explanations, cool project also! Keep it up.
Thank you!!
It's turning out great! Looking forward to see how you construct the rear door.
Thanks man!
Looks very clean!
Thanks man!! Coming along!
FYI - Sika 330 - this stuff can be applied before you powder coat, cracks, seams, alum panels can all be glued and caulked before it’s coated and the coating will stick to the Sika 330.
Be sure to check with your powder coat company beforehand as they might want to do a test sample.
This is awesome info! Thank you.
Great video and great build. This is going to be an awesome camper. One thing to consider on your front and rear hinge mechanisms is where the fabric is going to go when the top is down. Right now, the hinges you have created nest in a sort of "scissors" way, which seems to leave little to no room for the fabric to come in when the top is lowered. Most pop-top manufacturers use a piano hinge solution because this allows the fabric to fall between the two panels when the top comes down, giving plenty of room for everything to pack up. I'm assuming that you're going to use a heavier fabric for the top, which means that the nested scissoring action of your hinge mechanisms will want to pinch the fabric when folding and likely won't leave adequate room. Just something to consider. Cheers.
Thanks Jason! I was just looking at that yesterday! I’m hoping there is an enough room it appears that way. That makes total sense why other companies do the piano hinge style!
Looking great! Sometimes things are “design on the fly”. You start with a plan and start cutting 😂 looking forward to the next phase
No doubt man! I’ve always found it easier to figure some stuff out once I’m to that stage as trying to plan ahead you will not be able to see certain issues until it’s in front of you!
@@Adv4x4 sort of “cross that bridge when we get there” kind of design!
@jaystewart9947 yessir!
Good stuff, this is. Thanks a lot
Looks amazing! How heavy is the camper?
I’m designing my own camping trailer box that will be removable from my flat bed trailer and I was considering building it from an aluminum frame, but the cost seems to be too high for my budget. Do you have a cheap supplier for aluminum components and what do you think is the cost difference between wood and aluminum?
Both are viable options! It all comes down to what you are capable of working with and your budget! Buying aluminum in bulk is your best bet. It’s I believe about $1700 in aluminum only.
@ Thanks for the reply, I’ll probably use wood as my frame and composite panels, or possibly some steel frame elements with rollers for my collapsible box.
Looks like the side Carabiner and Runners are going to interfere with the fabric when you’re trying to close it, I’d put the eyes for the carabiner to the roof center structure and the bed platform so that it’s not in the fabrics way. But still keep the eyes on the roof sides for the gear hanging storage like you said.
This is looking great. Any pros or cons to having designed the struts for the exterior versus inside? I’m thinking if they were able to work inside there’s less to catch on a trail and the aero is just slightly better. But maybe it wouldn’t work with clearances etc.
Being on the inside might hinder his cloth walls from laying in properly. Being on the outside will expose them to the elements, though I'm sure they are rated for it.
I originally wanted them on the inside! Unfortunately no room, especially once there is fabric in the mix! There will be an awning on the driver side that essentially covers them as well. I think with better planning I may have been able to pull it off but at least they are easy to get too/replace this way!
Can Someone let me know where to get these gas struts.
They are linked in the description with the rest of the parts!
@@Adv4x4 thanks man. Your build and videos have been a way for me to get what was in my head to paper and now to reality. Very grateful, you killed it for sure. I’ll send a pick when I’m done you can talk shit to me it will be fun. Always trying to make things better.
Goodluck with your build man!
Love the way you approached this build, it looks very pro. If I was to do my camper again, this is the way I'd do it. Did you do any weight support calculations for the overhang to determine the frame material that you used? Subscribed!
Thanks Mike! I did use a deflection calculator for the material size on the overhang at 500lbs it didn’t have anything to note! Should be overkill, but that’s how I like it! Haha
@@Adv4x4 That's awesome! I looked high and low for one but I couldn't find it. What dimensions did you end up using for the frame overhang. I ended up finding a deflection calculator for 8020 and just wne t that way with my design.
@MikeBabsBC it is 3”x4” 1/8” wall aluminum tubing!
That plus the fact that I have that angle riveted too it and the sheet that goes under the overhang it probably won’t budge at all!