Відео

Yes, did a Coyote swap about 3 months ago on it. Doing great..

You are very welcome, I hope it help you a great deal. For the pulley, I believe I used the one from a Ford Taurus V6, the late 90's I think. As long as you have the belt line up ands the bolt hole from the pulley to the balancer, you are good to go and it will work. Thanks again for reaching out.

No. While it shares the same reservoir as the brakes, that is just for the fluid,. The systems otherwise it totally independent of each other. This is done with engine off.

Longtubes and flowmasters

​@@michaelkennedy2528Oh I've got Flowmasters too. Which series mufflers? And X or H pipe?

​@linkinparkdrift Can't recall which series Flowmaster but it has the H pipe.

Not quite sure I am understanding. Please elaborate. I am always looking for better ways to do things, and what you are suggesting may well be that better method.

Yeah, when it bottomed out all the way to max RPM (not true rpm), when I shifted the van into park it bent it, and then finally broke.

Hey, thanks for checking in on the video. The flexplate (automatics have flexplates, manuals have flywheels) was replaced with a Ford OEM new one. I had the thought initially that the torque converter could be the cause. All the other things you mentioned were examined and replaced as needed but it kept with the vibrations. I did finally figure out what the issue was and made a vide about it. It was something that I would have never thought of, but it fixed the issue. Here is the link. ua-cam.com/video/o2aeTMpjVik/v-deo.htmlsi=7YRKoVCmM_gtAKHn Thanks again for the suggestions.

Hey, thanks for checking out the video and offering a solution. I finally got it figured out and made a video on it. Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/o2aeTMpjVik/v-deo.htmlsi=2BjlsR5ZKtS17jWG

The rubber hose goes to the slave cylinder? There is no pressure in the reservoir to operate the slave.

Yes sir!!

No, no, check that harmonic balancer. I just had a friend that had a shaker and it was the harmonic balancer. They are no longer available but can be put together from two different vehicles. If it is a 2000 Windstar with the 3.8, a Ford Taurus (1993) I think Autozone sells the actual balancer ( not the pulley part, that is from the Taurus) and that is from a 1996 to 1998 Windstar. The part is made by Pioneer/ATP DA-1830. VERY un- likely to be a bent rod. Check with your local junk yard on that pulley part, again it is from a 1993 Taurus 3.8. It takes two pieces to get it right for the Windstar being that the OEM is no longer available.

Yes, I used the springs and the retainers they told me to use. I did use the upgraded "racing retainers", can't remember the exact number for them. I have a brand new box of of the Comp 26125-24 "Beehive" sitting here not used. I have never heard of the 12526-24 springs, tried looking them up but came up with nothing. I ended up getting two boxes in case I wanted to build another 4.6 3V at some point. I have moved on to the Coyote engine so may be selling them off here soon, these things are super expensive but that's what Comp recommended for the Comp 127650 Cams. I did the lock outs too, bought BRAND NEW Ford phasers as the aftermarket junk will not physically work with the lockouts and I want quality stuff.

Hey, and thanks for reaching out with the suggestion. I finally figured the problem out and made a video about the findings. ua-cam.com/video/o2aeTMpjVik/v-deo.htmlsi=vvO_LzMIsllj-XQQ

Got it figured out, but surprisingly it wasn't that. I made a video of the reason for it, "2000 Winnie Vibration free". Thanks for asking though, I appreciate your suggestion.

Well besides the brakes being nearly no-existent due to the lack of vacuum, they took some getting use too. Slipping the clutch is a common thing, not to the point of damaging the clutch for sure, but it will help you get started . I am running a 373 gear, so that helped a little. You need either a vacuum canister or a vacuum pump to go along with them for the brakes, they are pretty cheap overall. The sound and power, AMAZING. I will certainly sell them to you, they have maybe a couple thousand at the most. Going a different direction, picking up my Coyote engine this coming Tuesday. I have all the supporting mods for these cams as well, all top of the line stuff. Hope this helps.

@@michaelkennedy2528 might consider I’m looking at MHS complete head and cam package so I can put everything in myself and avoid shop labor rates. Imma give them a call on pricing this Monday and see where things might fall. How much would sell the cam kit for?

Hey, thanks for watching. I did figure it out and made a detailed video about it. The title id 2000 Ford Winnie Vibration Free. Check it out. The van is running "Lexus smooth" now. Again, thanks for commenting, share it, there re MANY of these engines out there still, and a lot of these vans still on the road.

I took an empty syringe (60ml/cc is best, I'll put a link at the end, you can get them at medical place pretty cheap) in the hose that I take off the reservoir, make sure to plug the nipple off that it comes off of, and also be careful the nipple can be somewhat brittle due to the environment is it in with heat. After I put the syringe in the hose, find a way to support it straight up where you can pour the brake fluid into the syringe, about half way is generally perfect. Now you want to go in and SLOWLY pump the pedal, keeping an eye on the syringe to see how much air/bubbles are bubbling up in the syringe. IF there is air in the slave cylinder, this will get it. It may take a bit of pumping the pedal, but it should not take more than say 30 pumps. Make sure that you keep the syringe about halfway full, if there is air in, it will replace that and the fluid level will decrease. Make sure you keep the fluid off the paint, it will take it off. Once the pumping no longer shows air bubbles, use a small pair of needle nose Vise grips (or what ever you have that will lock) on the hose BEFORE pulling that syringe out of the hose. When you remove the syringe, you may see a tiny part of the hose where there isn't any fluid, just fill the hose with a few drops from the syringe, just to remove that tiny bit of air. Then, remove whatever you have plugging the nipple off (hopefully a rubber cap)and quickly slip that hose back onto the nipple. Make sure the reservoir is half full, again to prevent air from that angle. I am not sure exactly what is going on with your car at this point, but if there is air, this will fix it. What type of car is this so that I can help you further diagnose this issue. Year/Make/Model/Engine please. Hope what I have outlined fixes it for you, saves a lot of money rather than replacing parts. Thanks for contacting me and viewing my video. I hope I have earned a sub and like. Thanks again. www.amazon.com/Industrial-Scientific-Measuring-Refilling-Filtration/dp/B08DCYRHH1/ref=asc_df_B08DCYRHH1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459453782550&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7791661904345221576&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011568&hvtargid=pla-983181716616&th=1

@@michaelkennedy2528 subbed and liked!! Oh ok so you take out the plunger part of the syringe and put it into the hose and then fill it with fluid. Similar to what I did when I bled the coolant system. I saw a bunch of other people jacking their cars up or attaching a vacuum pump to the reservoir cap to bled the clutch. I actually have a 2008 Mustang Gt 4.6L 5speed.

@@johnnycardenas1518 thank you so much. Yes, take out the plunger on the syringe, making it basically a funnel. The reason I use the syringe is that it allows you to see the amount of air bubbles, if any and its a direct fill for the slave. I have the 2007 Mustang GT/CS 4.6 3 valve. I had switched the stock one over to the Ford Racing Aluminator, all forged internals and then put the Vortech supercharger back on it. Dual GT racing fuel pumps and 60 pound injectors. Dropped a valve and now I am going to do a Coyote swap real soon on it.

@@michaelkennedy2528 gotcha makes sense now! Yeah I saw the dyno sheet in the video and was impressed! Were you running the stock trans tr3650 with the aluminator and vortech? I still have 4.6L stock internals but rebuilt top end with stage 2 cams, CAI, long tube headers, x pipe, Roush axle backs

@@johnnycardenas1518 Yes, 3650 trans. I had the Comp 127650 cams, phazer limiters and the supporting valve springs. i will be selling alot of that stuff here soon I think to offset the Coyote swap. The cams are super aggressive, don't drink coffee while idling lol. I had the Detroit rockers in it before (blower grind) and really like them,

Just plugged it up, , when I took he hose off, I put a small cap over the nipple. You have to be very careful when doing so because the nipple can be very brittle due to being in all that heat under the hood. If you do not plug it off, all the fluid in the reservoir will drip/pour out. Also, make sure you keep the fluid off the paint, it will damage it for sure. Thanks for watching, hope it helped.

True, have a little something going on with it, seems to be losing ground reference.

Thank you very much, I try to do it in a manner where even the person that has never dealt with a vehicle or something of this manner can get through it with success. I certainly never had anything like this happen, I just know it stopped on the side of the road, at that point I had no idea what had happened. My goal is to prevent other from making the mistake of putting the wrong part in thinking it will correct the initial issue, only to find out it is just the start of a much bigger issue. Well thanks again, and if you found the information helpful, I would appreciate a thumbs up and possibly having you subscribe. I will be coming out with some tractor restoration videos here soon, 1968 Case 580Ck complete restoration, should be interesting. Thanks again, stay tuned.

Hey, thanks for checking the video out, I really appreciate it. I really hope it gets out so people avoid what I went through. It is strange that an aftermarket manufacturer would make something that would destroy the engine. That steel gear is so hard that it slowly ground away at the cast iron gear until it could no longer turn it. I have to say I have never experienced anything like this in my time dealing with hundreds of engines. If you thing about it, the road and main bearings are aluminum, and often the cam bearings too are aluminum, up against what is usually either steel or cast iron, and under tremendous loads in the case of crank and rods. When I spoke with the metallurgist he said almost right away that was the problem, and that light came on (dimly) in my head and I thought why did I not think of that? But yeah, I hope this helps folks before it is to late, and thanks for the compliments on the demonstrations, I try to cover things in a manner that will help all, as many may be trying to do this work themselves to save money, and may very well not have the mechanical knowledge. If I can help those folks, I feel great about it. Thanks again.

Yes, it will just take alittle more fluid and leg work but should work perfectly fine. If you find this helpful, please like abd subscribe so UA-cam sends it out to more people can be helped. Let me know how it wotks out for you. The biggest thing, go VERY slow, and watch the fluid level to make sure it doesn't suck in more air. Funny thing is I am getting my order of 10, 60cc syringes today because I have given the ones I had away doing this for others. These are the ones I got. 60ml Catheter Tip Syringe with Covers- 10 Syringes by Care Touch- Individually Sealed - Sterile a.co/d/gc0TDji You can use pretty much and thing that will fit in the hose, but these work perfect. Let me know how you do please, and if you need help, reach out to me. Take care.

@@michaelkennedy2528 thank you for the reply.

@@CLPATTERSON your very welcome

So glad to hear that, I am also glad that is was discovered much easier than mine was, what time that was doing that search. I would appreciate if you would like and subscribe, it helps get it out to others on UA-cam. The paint on mine is peeling as well, mainly on the hood. Ford had some issues with paint throughout the 2000's. from my understanding it takes a lot to prep the body for repainting due to how much stuff Ford put on the metal, so mine is going to stay like that lol.

Glad it helped, thanks for watching.

Thanks, hope it helped or will help in the future. Did you happen to see my gear vidwo for that same engine you have? Something you might want to take a peek at. Certainly caught me by surprise. Please consider liking, sharing and subscribing. Thanks.

Thank you, I hope it helps a lot of folks.

I am sorry, I only know English and sign language. Can you please translate to English? Thanks.

Hey Kenny, appreciate the feedback. I finally did figure out what was causing the issue and it is Lexus (nearly/really close) smooth now. I did a video of the findings, thanks for watching and please check out the video. Subscribe also please.

Well I thought the same thing but it made no difference. I did however figure out what the issue was and made a video of it here ua-cam.com/video/o2aeTMpjVik/v-deo.html Thank you very much for the suggestion and watchig the video. happy Holidays to you and your loved ones.

@@michaelkennedy2528 Great to see you found the problem. Your van must have vibrated all the time. When the IRMC isn't working you will see on the scan tool -20% long fuel trim. You lose low rpm power and 20-30 percent in-city gas mileage. The engine loads up some from the rich mixture and sometimes a rough idle. The ECM is adjusting all the time but runs perfectly on the highway. I like my 2000 Windstar that has 245k . I still have a few things to fix like my needles jump sometimes and I need to resolder some cold solder joints on the instrument cluster this spring and I have an inner tie rod that needs replacement . I only put 3000 miles a year on it because I own a Ebike for the bulk of my in-city riding. December to March is when the Windstar runs the most due to the cold and snow. Enjoy your Windstar!

I finally figured it out, well a friend and I did, he is the link to the video of the findings,thanks for reaching out with the suggestion, hope you subscribe. Thanks and Happy Holidays. ua-cam.com/video/o2aeTMpjVik/v-deo.html

I along with a friend figured it out, runs like a Lexus now. I did a video on the cause, the one with the crying emoji gives a detailed description of what I found. Thanks for contacting me, hopefully my videos help folks that have this engine or vehicle.

Depending on which mount your speaking of. The one next to the AC compressor can cause a vibration but that would be more constant. The harmonic balancer can shift and a good way to check that would be to turn on the AC compressor when the vibration starts and then turn it off, do this a few times and see if the vibration changes. The reason you turn the AC compressor on and off is it puts a load on that pulley by way of the belt, it will make the "pulley" slip some on rubber mounting that connects the pulley to the main center. Also, if you can find top dead center, I believe it is #5 the one center next to the radiator. Double check me on that but see if the marks are indicating TDC on the harmonic balancer, if not, there is your issue. Make sure you do not use any from an autoparts place before watching my video on which one to buy, because I can promise you that they will not work. Let me know what you find. Also, make sure the coil and wires are good, and do not use anything but Motorcraft plugs, if that is not what's in there now, change them, that may be the issue as well because Fords are extremely particular about plaus. Let me know what you find.

@Michael Kennedy thanx a lot for the detailed response. I didn't use motorcraft plugs when I changed them. They were a bear to change too so maybe I should change them to motorcraft.

@Michael Kennedy the mount that I checked was the driver side mount which I believe is on the opposite side of the engine as the a/c compressor

@@macknumber9 yeah Fords, apparently this engine has had issues with most if not all plugs except Motorcraft. There is a write up somewhere that said it was an issue so I removed the plugs and put in Motorcraft as well. They can be tough for sure. If you go under the vehicle they are slightly easier than removing all the stuff including the windshield wipers etc...Make sure the wires are not arcing to ground also, make in a really dark area look around down in the back (1,2,3) area and make sure you do not aee an arc to ground. If you do, replace only with Motorcraft wires, they are pretty cheap on Rockauto.com. if you have not had the upper intake manifold off there are some EGR ports up underneath that clamshell down in the metal part of the intake manifold. Those can get clogged up and need to be probed with just a simple piece of coat hanger wire or welding rod or something of that size just to push them clear and that could make a difference as well. Also you might want to check and make sure the EGR system is working and that's easy to do by putting a vacuum on the EGR and if the engine responds while it's running then you know that the EGR is working properly. If you have not done so you might want to run some good fuel injector cleaner through the system just to check for any kind of small debris in the injectors.

@Michael Kennedy thanx that is very helpful. I actually ran 5 tanks of fuel injector cleaner through. I changed plugs wires and ignition coil as well... I ran lucas twice, royal purple twice and then I went with redline...

Thanks for watching, in the other video I figured out what it was and fixed it, check them out. Thanks for watching.

I will be putting another engine/trans in it soon and and will do a verty detailed video on the entire process. It will still suprise you just how quick and easy it truly is to do it. Thanks for watching in the meantime.