Do Hangboards Improve Finger Strength? An Unbiased Look at the Science | Corporis
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- Опубліковано 10 жов 2021
- Hangboards are everywhere in rock climbing and bouldering gyms. They're usually used to improve grip strength or finger strength, but what does the science say?
Check out my original grip strength vid here: • What Ninja Warrior Tea...
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☠️NONE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO SHOULD BE USED AS MEDICAL ADVICE OR OPINION. IT IS FOR GENERAL EDUCATION AND ENTERTAINMENT☠️
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Hi, I’m Patrick. I’m a freelance science writer based in the San Francisco Bay Area. I hold a bachelor’s degree in Athletic Training and a master’s in clinical exercise physiology. I used to work in the clinical setting as a certified athletic trainer, physical therapy aide, and a certified strength and conditioning specialist. After working in the clinical setting, I went back to school and became a teacher. The goal of my content is to help normal people, not just pre-med students, learn about the human body. That might mean explaining a topic from an anatomy class or exploring a topic from medical history.
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I never realized how much science there actually was about this! So good Patrick!
Heck yeah Haley! There's a world of science behind everything if you know where to look
As a guy that's bouldered and climbed a bit and has tried the hangboards quite a bit, here's my anecdotal evidence. For climbing the fingerboards only have limited advantage, your endurance is a much bigger factor for climbing. For bouldering on the other hand, training your fingers is really important and I noticed that (after plateauing a bit) hangboards can make a lot of difference since you're training only the hardest part (at least, it was for me) of bouldering.
Further, I've heard (not tested mind you) that your muscles can handle a lot in little time while your tendons cannot. So I've always been cautioned to take it easy with my fingers since an injury was likely. So far that has worked :)
As for my level, I could do most 8A boulders when I was still pretty active.
Awesome, thanks for lending your perspective. Your experience lines up with everything I've studied :)
Would you like to share your finger-strength training program outside of climbing？
@@user-ud2yd3gl8p Just using a hangboard for a few minutes each day makes a load of difference when you're bouldering. Just remember that you are far less likely to get injured with a few small sets than with one big one.
@@arthur3537how many days a week and how much did you rest how long did it take to see results
@@ElijahgaviTwice a week have a noticeable difference for me within a month already. But you have to be really careful and don't go too fast too soon. Your fingers don't have all that much blood flow to them and get hurt really easily and take a very long time to recover. I would suggest taking at least a year to go from hanging on your hands to hanging by a few fingers.
This is one of the first videos of yours I've seen and I'm really impressed so far. You speak in a clear, concise manner, cite your sources, and honestly admit when evidence is weak or inconclusive, instead of trying to make it fit a narrative. Great job!
I can't believe you aren't more popular! Such a clear look at the science and so well explained
As a climber and anatomy student this video was (to quote Hanna Montana) the best of both worlds 🙂 Thank you!
god damnit patrick, always with such great and creative content
Much appreciated. This was a fun one to research
I am not going to attack your work product. I think you've been objective, and your heart is in the right place. However, I am going to add...and people can accept this or not, it is demonstrably true...that if you look at a bodybuilder and a rock climber, you will see similar hypertrophy in the lower arms. HOWEVER, have them flex and wiggle their hands and digits. The tendons...NO COMPARISON. If they've been doing it for five or more years, the tendon might be 3x the thickness of the bodybuilder. This should be no surprise. Experienced rock climbers ive seen dont complain neither so much about forearm nor fingers, but tendon pain. It seems to be what is getting hammered. Tendons are PROVEN to grow from long, sustained bouts of continued constant tension. Lots of blood flow and metabolic stress to the muscles throughout the lower limb. Rock climbing is a perfect storm of hypertrophy stimulation , particularly for the tendons. These guys, such as my friend Kevin palko, are known for having outrageous levels of lower limb strength and work capacity. He can train side pressure very hard, and typically not get injured, and recover from his workouts faster than his cohorts. Why? Well, when coupled with other examples,, a logical deduction is there is a strong correlation to his climbing and how it has altered their anatomy favorably. I encourage you to watch this guys videos on UA-cam, if you are in to armwrestling or hand strength and fitness in general. All this said, I like your video, and presentation style. Subscribed :)
Understand channel, seen you several times on seeker as well. Great explanations.
I used to climb walls and floors like this so many times🤣. But god those rough surfaces always scratch and i ended up having blood all over my hands. It's fun but pain at the same time, i left doing it but will get back to it cuz i love to climb and run(of course in a safer place like gym and such)
I don't really care much for muscle strength, but from what I know, the biggest factor in muscle strength is glycogen storage. Excluding tendon strength and endurance, which depend more on factors like collagen structure, blood flow, and mitochondria(the powerhouse of the cell) remodeling.
so cool to know u also climb / boulder! What is your route which u were most proud of?
Ooooh good question. I did a V3 at a gym in San Francisco where I had to get horizontal quite a bit. While it was only a V3, it was the most challenging thing I'd done at that point
I love Grip amd gripsport. One reason I train grip is to strengthen tendons. In 6 months I've gained so much grip power. Thx for this great video
How often did you rest ? Did you gain strength in fingers
I would’ve appreciated more of an answer than “we can stick to weights.” Does that mean just traditional pull weight training ?
I used to climb in my childhood and adolescence and my forearm, palm and fingers are thicker than most people
Super interesting
Have you ever tried hangboarding? What has your experience been?
no but would love to someday
As a somewhat regular boulderer, my experience in a nutshell: So much pain and it seems to never gets easier. :D
Is training on door frame works too?
I do it but I’m an armwrestler who was already capable of palming an inverted 50lb dumbbell. A hangboard is a waste of time for brand new climbers who doesn’t have sufficient strength to hang. Anyone in that category should focus on BMI, hanging on a pull-up bar, and performing specific armwrestling exercises to strengthen themselves.
My personal experience and of those I climb with has been positive. I have not used weight while hangboarding, but have progressed by using smaller holds from 1.5 cm to 8mm. I can tell a big difference in just 7 weeks. Holds that hurt to hang on to now feel comfortable and I feel my core strength has also improved.
I ended up splitting a sesamoid bone in my foot while rock climbing for the first time. I had fun until I had to limp 4 miles back to my car.
Bro. That sounds like a rough day. Have you climbed since then?
My right grip used to be super strong from tennis, I did 1 handed back hand... I don't play tennis anymore and I gradually lost it
You need to specify what kind of protocol they were training on the hangboard. Repeaters train endurance, max hangs train strength
I’m using this for volleyball 😅
Thank you very much for this video! There are so many myths and folk kniwledges about anatomy with grip and hands especially. I want to ask, have you seen any research into office ergonomics, especially with ergonomic computer equipment and keyboards? I'm wondering where diminishing returns existz and whether certain risks can or can't be prevented with exercise.
I haven't been able to find as much rigorous research as I'd like, but I did a video on a friend's channel last year that might help: ua-cam.com/video/_Yv_Dp5P-ro/v-deo.html
an eight week training to see who improves most sounds weird, i have been hangboarding for almost 4 months and haven‘t improved a bit. I might be ding a lot wrong 😄
As a physical therapist and climber who has enjoyed your channel for years, I sadly have to say that you've done a major disservice by leaving out the tremendous research of Eva López-Rivera on this topic.
What I found as a beginner use a dumbbell go increase finger strength
Trying to crush my friends hand when i shake them
What defines an 'experienced climber'?
❤️❤️
A dead hang is what my week does on Wednesday...
Where's an eye rolling gif when I need it...
❤❤❤❤❤👍🏻💪🏻
i like this video very much
🏋🏻♂️ 🏅🏅🏅
💪🏻🏋🏻♂️💪🏻
Please make a 10 or 8 minute exercise video with a variety of movements:
Bodyweight exercises and Dumbbell exercises for :
forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, lower back, obliques, upper abs, lower abs, glutes, hips/kegels/pelvis, waist, hamstrings, quadriceps, thighs and calves...
and also ask for your help in making a video of exercises for the fingers, soles of the feet, palms, toes.......
and exercise for symmetrical slanted bodies such as shoulders, face and other body parts.....
And tall sports / to increase body height such as basketball athletes, cardio sports with and without dumbbells, as well as delicious bulking and cutting, recipes for delicious food and healthy food that we can cook at home......
Don't forget to upload warm-up and cool-down videos with and without dumbbells I hope the video can be uploaded soon for my practice at home and I will share it with my friends.
Sorry if there are any wrong words from me.
I say...... thank you for your attention and and good luck always....
From :
Muhammad Haqqul Yaqin *YAYAK* your fans
👍🏻💪🏻🏋🏻♂️
Please make a video bodyweight workout / home workout and Dumbbell workout for train muscle forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, upper abs, lower back, obliques, lower abs, waist, glute, pelvic / kegel, hamstring, quads, thighs, and calfs and finger workout, palm workout, face workout, body symmetrical workout, sole feet workout, tall workout, etc ...... please make that video because i love workout ....... thank you for your attention 🙂👍
From your fans
YAYAK
🏋️♂️🏋️♂️
❤ i like this video very much 🏋️♂️💪🏻👍🏼👍🏻
Ask for help to make a video of :
Bodyweight exercise and
Dumbbell exercise for :
forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, lower back, obliques, upper abs, lower abs, glutes, hips/kegels/pelvic, waist, hamstrings, quadriceps, thighs and calves...
and also ask for help making a video of exercises for finger, sole feet, palm .....
and exercise for symmetrically slant the body such as shoulders, face and other body parts....
And exercises to tall like basket ball player, cardio with and without dumbbell and how to bulking and cutting....
don't forgett to upload video warm up and cooling down with and without dumbbell 🙂🙂😊
Sorry if there are any wrong words ....... for your attention
I say....... thank you very much
From :
Muhammad Haqqul Yaqin
*YAYAK*
your fans
💪✊👍
💪🏻🏋🏻♂️💪🏻
Please make a 10 or 8 minute exercise video with a variety of movements:
Bodyweight exercises and Dumbbell exercises for :
forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, lower back, obliques, upper abs, lower abs, glutes, hips/kegels/pelvis, waist, hamstrings, quadriceps, thighs and calves...
and also ask for your help in making a video of exercises for the fingers, soles of the feet, palms, toes.......
and exercise for symmetrical slanted bodies such as shoulders, face and other body parts.....
And tall sports / to increase body height such as basketball athletes, cardio sports with and without dumbbells, as well as delicious bulking and cutting, recipes for delicious food and healthy food that we can cook at home......
Don't forget to upload warm-up and cool-down videos with and without dumbbells I hope the video can be uploaded soon for my practice at home and I will share it with my friends.
Sorry if there are any wrong words from me.
I say...... thank you for your attention
From :
Muhammad Haqqul Yaqin *YAYAK* your fans
👍🏻💪🏻🏋🏻♂️
🏋️♂️🏋️♂️💪🏻💪🏻
Video Tutorial Dumbbell workout for forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, lower back, upper back, chest, abs, obliques, lower abs, kegel, hamstring, calfs, thigh, quads, glute & etc
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Please help me to train muscles and guide me by uploading dumbbell exercise or body weight exercise tutorial videos :
1. Neck
2. Omohyoid
3. Sternohyoid
4. Sternocleidomadtoid
5. Trapezius
6. Shoulders
7. Deltoid
8. Interior head
9. Middle head
10. Posterior head
11. Biceps
12. Brachialis
13. Bicep brachii
14. Long head
15. Short head
16. Pronator teres
17. Palmaris longus
18. Forearm
19. Extensor carpi ulnaris
20. Abductor pollicis longus
21. Extensor pollicis brevis
22. Extensor pollicis longus
23. Flexor carpi radialis
24. Brachioradialis
25. Flexor carpi ulnaris
26. Chest
27. Pectoralis major
28. Pectoralis minor ( beneath major )
29. Abs
30. Serratus anterior
31. External oblique
32. Rectus abdominis
33. Tendinous inscriptions
34. Back
35. Teres minor
36. Teres major
37. Infraspinatus
38. Rhomboid major
39. Trapezius
40. Erector spinae ( deep )
41. Latissimus dorsi
42. Thoracolumbar fascia
43. Triceps
44. Triceps brachii
45. Lateral head
46. Long head
47. Medial head
48. Glutes
49. Gluteus medius
50. Gluteus maximus
51. Thighs
52. Sartorius
53. Pectineus
54. Adductor longus
55. Gracilis
56. Tensor fasciae latae
57. Vastus medialis
58. Rectus femoris
59. Vastus lateral
60. Patella ( kneecap )
61. Hamstrings
62. Biceps femoris
63. Iliotibal band
64. Adductor magnus
65. Semitendinosus
66. Gracilis
67. Semimembranosus
68. Calves
69. Gastrocnemius
70. Soleus
71. Peroneus brevis
72. Flexor hallucis longus
73. Tibia ( bone )
74. Tibialis anterior
75. Extensor digitorum longus
76. Peroneus longus
77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
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84.
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I don't know if they improve finger strength, but I know that they turn every other fingernail black.
hangboarding makes you better at hangboarding.
If you want to injure some random guy / new climber, give him a hang board lol
woman… woman would benefit for the guys using finger boards.