How To Install Mopar Subframe Connectors
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Outlaw Motorsports installs a set of US Cartool subframe connectors from Reilly Motorsports onto a 1968 Plymouth Valiant ('64-76 Mopar A-body). The tools and fabrication techniques to complete the job are demonstrated.
I really like your rear trailing arm upgrade.
There's one thing I recommend to anyone installing sub frame connectors is to weld them with the suspension loaded ,,, with the car on the lift the body flexes and once you weld them into place the body isn't in it's natural state ,,
Ideally, I'd fab up some single piece RHS and flanges on the end and cut the floor and run them through to the rear. Thing is it creates much more work and the seats might not clear properly.
thank you! this has had me perturbed, questioning for some time as to planning the install EDIT: wouldn't a perfectly level floor / surface be wise!?
great job guys, however, loading the suspension is always the standard process, to keep the geometry of the chassis correct. It makes a huge difference on the performance of the vehicle, especially at high speed passes. Also, having everything that is being installed on the vehicle is detrimental.(including the driver) I.e. wheels, driveline, panels, exhaust.... it all makes a difference. Offense was not intended here, merely the interest in the vehicles final value and performance at the highest they can be. But hey, NICE WORK! its a beautiful Valiant.
Going to miss those guys magazines, shame moparmuscle went away
Very nice Sir
nice beads guys!
Get a welding coat or go to goodwill and pickup a thick leather coat. Maybe a set of welding gloves from Harbor Freight.
it would be wise to coat or paint the inside of the connect at least up to where you weld so the paint that doesn't burn off prevents rust OR use the inner frame rail paint from east wood that comes with the flexible tube.
Ya that's a BIG difference. Too bad this car wasn't moving so you guys could give us some before and after butt-dyno numbers. I know it's not gonna be more powerful but it should feel pretty wicked.
Ya I have done that before, what you have is a 2 post lift with 4 arms, If the car is not perfectly centered on the lift the arms on one side will be shorter than the other side. so the long arm will deflect (bend down) more than the shorter side. If the rt front and the left rear are shorter they will be the stiffer arms and the other two longer arms will deflect causing a twist. You should do it on a drive on lift and check the rails for level from side to side in front and in rear and use screw jacks on opposite corners to straighten it out if it needs it. You should have at least put a level on the rails to show the car is straight in your video. guys that don't know what they are doing will follow your lead and f-up there car.
Well, the subframe connectors would be better off being a single piece of RHS mounted vertically but if you don't want to open up the floor you could modify these existing ones. To modify these a pieces of flat bar could be stitched into the existing frame connector to box it. Before that vertical stiffners every 4" and the flat bar welded in between the vertical stiffners. I fail to see how welding a frame connector like this is going to substantially reduce torsional stress on the body commensurate with the effort. What this means is if you're going to do it, do it so it makes a large difference rather than a marginal one.
I can't believe you guys didn't level the car, I'm sure your lift picked the car up and gave it a twist, then you welded the subframe in now the car has a permanent twist that can't be fixed. At least you have adjustable shock springs so at least you can set the weight on all 4 wheels that should fix the handling even if the car is twisted. Nice job! Duh!
Yeah, clearly they have never done this before? The car is being lifted at four points equidistant on each sub-frame. It isn't being jacked up in front or back and THEN welded. If anything, they are correcting any twist that may be in the frame. Have you ever had a car on a lift? You can open and close the doors normally, meaning the frame is correct. If the frame were off or twisted, the doors would not open and shut smoothly.
I would've tacked it with the car on it's wheels.
SFC's make a huge difference!
At what hp or torque rather would this benefit most? Thinking of building a small block mopar 340 probably max out just over 400 hp if I'm lucky
big difference when installed, the car reacts much better and easier to jack the car up and saves unwanted twisting
NICE WORK, instead grind the paint you also can use "coper welding primer" ;)
You guys are hacks!!!